This is a utopia. A purely consumer approach to growing plants destroys the fertile layer of soil.
Most agronomists think that fertile soil has a certain chemical composition. This idea is fundamentally wrong, and it is precisely this that leads to the destruction of the soil. Don't believe me? Read on.
Everyone knows that the fertile layer of the soil is relatively small and is located on the surface of the earth. If you dig a two-meter hole in the ground, you can see with the naked eye that there is no fertile soil at the bottom, although if we assume that the fertility of the soil is determined by its chemical composition, then at such a depth it should, on the contrary, be more fertile, because plants don't get here.
Everyone also knows that for the normal development of plants, the soil in which they grow must be loose. Here the agronomists took us to the WRONG WHERE AGAIN and told us that for this we need to dig it up regularly. When we dig up the soil, we first make earth out of it, then sand and finally dust. And then we breathe it all.
Another mistake is the way we plant plants. Different plants consume and produce different micronutrients. If different plants grow in a garden bed, they work for each other and require virtually no care. And if the entire garden bed is filled with plants of the same species, then they begin to fight among themselves for a place in the sun. As a result, from a lack of microelements we get sick plants. We try to cure them with chemistry, again on the advice of agronomists, and we enter a VICIOUS CIRCLE.
So, should we all go beat the agronomists for giving us false information? Of course, you can go, but this will not solve the problem. A more reasonable action is to figure out for yourself what determines soil fertility. It’s worth it - if we manage to copy the behavior of Nature - after all, now only it makes the soil fertile, then we will no longer need to bend our backs in the garden - everything will grow there on its own. Tempting? Go ahead.
FERTILE SOIL IS A LIVING ORGANISM, and not just a set of chemical elements. The fact that it contains many trace elements is a side effect of its “vitality”. In order to increase the fertility of the soil, it is necessary to increase its “vitality”, and the necessary microelements come to the living soil themselves. Don't believe it? There is no mysticism here, but only the exact laws of Nature.
First of all, fertile soil is not land. The earth is an integral part of it, but it is only a frame on which a fertile layer is formed.
First, let's figure out how to make the soil loose. It's simple - you need to plant annual plants with long roots in it several times in a row. When their long roots die, there will be passages left, due to which the soil will be loose.
Now let’s figure out where to get the microelements that plants need. There are no problems here either - you just need to not leave the beds bare under the scorching rays of the sun. Partially weed out the weeds, and partially leave them, and throw the weeded weeds right there in the garden bed. Plus, plant plants mixed with each other, and not in separate beds.
That's all, then the plants and weeded weeds will share microelements with each other. The last problem is where to get water. You might be surprised, but there is no problem here either. You just need to cover the seedlings of our plants with a fifteen-centimeter layer of straw, foliage or pine needles.
This layer is called MULCH. Most people who use mulch think that it only retains moisture. In fact, it also produces moisture. At the top and bottom of the mulch, the air temperature is different; due to this difference, dew falls on the mulch, which is so necessary for plants.
Dew falls not only in the mulch, but also in the passages left by the roots of old plants, i.e. annual plants with long roots provide double benefits.
That's the whole technique of soil fertility. As you can see, THERE IS NOTHING COMPLEX HERE. Fertile soil is made so simply that it is very difficult to believe in this simplicity, so we are still looking for the magic fertilizer that will make our soil fertile. But the truth is that there is no such fertilizer and cannot be.
SO LET'S STOP BENDING YOUR BACK AND GIVE NATURE THE OPPORTUNITY TO RESTORE THE FERTILITY OF THE SOIL ITSELF!
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Developing a dacha plot where nothing cultural has grown for a long time is not a quick task. How to make beds that will give a good harvest next year? The famous gardener and gardener Nikolai Kurdyumov tells how to improve clay soil, sandy soil and how do-it-yourself beds differ from ordinary ones.
My friend in his youth lived in the famous village of Starocherkasskaya - the capital of the Don Cossacks. Floodplain of the Don, meadow chernozems, two meters deep, soft. And his garden was also on the site of the old regimental stables.
I remember he sincerely complained: well, it’s a complete pain to collect the harvest! Potatoes in the weeds - almost a bucket from the bush, beets - two of them won't fit into the bucket anymore! Of course, improving such soil will only spoil it. It is enough for her to return as much organic matter as has grown on it. And digging it is a crime. But we have few such happy places. My friend was just lucky.
For us, simple clay people, in order to achieve good fertility, we need to work with the soil. And in order not to wait years, it is better to immediately improve the soil in the beds - the first and last time, but radically. Oh, how many times have I regretted not doing this right away!
Improving the soil when developing a site: where to start
If your soil is heavy loam, then you need humus, sand, and, if possible, fine screenings of expanded clay. If it is a poor sandy loam, you need clay and humus. In both cases, a third of the new volume of the bed should be organic matter, rotted to varying degrees. And only the peat bog needs fresh nitrogenous organic matter: grass or hay, kitchen waste, unusable grain or spoiled feed. And also some clay and sand.
The famous Austrian permaculturist and naturalist farmer Sepp Holzer uses his method of quickly creating a humus reserve in extremely poor soils and harsh climates. In place of the bed, a trench is dug 40–50 cm deep and the same width. It becomes clogged with dry trunks, branches, and rotten wood. This is the primary reserve of slow-moving organic matter and a “sponge” for moisture during drought.
Then the trench is dug, and in Sepp's version, the earth is piled up from the sides, placing it in a shaft 70–100 cm high. The meaning of the shaft is the huge difference in microclimate. Sunny windward side - hot and dry. Sunny leeward - hot and humid, subtropical. Shady without wind - humid and not hot, shady with wind - not hot, but it blows away moisture.
On the shady side, the plants will climb up to the ridge. In the sun, they will bush and fly, just like on the beach. Taking all this into account, Sepp sows the shaft with a mixture of different plants - cereals, pumpkins and squashes, beans, corn and sunflowers - everything that has large seeds and quickly increases biomass.
By the way, the area of the slopes of the shaft is one and a half areas of its base.
The finished shaft is covered with straw or hay, strengthened from the wind with branches, and the branches with longitudinal poles. The huge advantage of the shaft - early and rapid heating of the soil. A trench was formed between the ridges; branches were also placed in it and covered with straw. The roots will reach here too.
Sowing is done directly into the straw using a pointed peg. The seeds germinate after the rains. All plant remains remain on the ridge. A year later, potatoes, various rutabaga with turnips, pumpkins and zucchini are planted here, and on top is a wall of corn.
Beautiful, deep, natural! But I’ll be honest: this is for the hectare owners who are most passionate about permaculture and Sepp personally. For my three-acre garden, this is not an option. We are not used to climbing steep shafts and unraveling wildly mixed bushes. We don’t know enough about the behavior of different plants. I won’t take it from the raid. Therefore, I lean towards more conventional methods.
In my early books - "according to John Jevons". In fact, all smart gardeners and winegrowers do this. But it just so happened: Jevons wrote a bestseller, I read it in the late 90s and was impressed.
John is an American organic farmer and hard worker, the inventor of “bio-intensive mini-agriculture” (BIMA). The yields from his beds were many times larger than traditional ones - you must agree, this is impressive.
He began to invent on extremely bad, poor soil. Therefore, I improved it immediately, and then increased its fertility, not from scratch. The idea is simple: you need to mix the soil with organic matter (and if necessary, with sand or clay) to the depth of two shovels. Well, two bayonets - this is in hot California. One and a half (35–40 cm) is enough for us. And three or four shovels wide.
Jevons suggests mixing soil with amendments, gradually moving around the bed: removing the top layer, mixing the bottom with compost, putting back the top layer, mixing it with compost, moving a little further... I keep it simple. When improving my clay bed with sand, I take out the most fertile top layer entirely and put it on the edge. I mix additives into the bottom and return the top layer to its place, also mixing something in.
The top, most organic layer has been removed, it is on the left. The bottom is mixed with sand. The top layer is also returned with sand. This is the only way I was able to radically reduce the density of my clay soil. The comfortable zone for roots has almost doubled in depth. All that remains is to restructure the soil - this will be done by worms and roots.
So, let's take the best of both worlds. We take out the top 10–15 cm of the most fertile soil. We deepen the bottom with a trench as deep as a shovel bayonet. In the trench there are logs and thick branches, but not too many, so that the capillary connection with the subsoil is quickly restored.
It is harmless to lightly powder this windfall with some nitrogen fertilizer, moisten it with manure mash or the contents of a dry closet - it will rot faster. It is useful to throw in some fresh weeds - the same nitrogen. In the dry south it is extremely harmless to sprinkle hydrogel, one mug per square meter.
We return the subsoil down from the trench, pushing it between the pieces of wood. We spread the excess subsoil in the aisles or take it away. At the bottom we place one or two strips of unripe compost or grass, flavored with EO, “Shine” or another bioactivator. Then we fill the bed with the removed top layer mixed with additives (sand/clay) and humus.
The result is a raised bed - a convex, gentle shaft. The convexity adds a fair amount of space and illumination to the plants, and in the spring it better receives the rays of the sun. For the damp Non-Black Earth Region, this is an ideal option for do-it-yourself beds. In the steppe zone and is needed.
The photo shows ridge beds on Irina Kalmykova’s property in Taman. They warm up much earlier and better. Here, in a very dry area, they are covered with a special mulch film, under which there are drip tapes.
The result of our sweating: the bed is ready to immediately produce a decent harvest. The difference is visible in the first year. Look at the photo. The three cucumber bushes on the right are on improved soil, the two on the left are on normal soil. L. Lobanov's vegetable garden, Ivanovo.
In the next photo: the soil on the right has also been improved. Adding organic matter and bioactivator also added warmth to the soil. The eggplant yield is 9 times greater than from the left control bush. Experience of A. Bushikhin, Yaroslavl.
Already a lot! But this is just the beginning. The soil is not yet inhabited by living creatures, not structured, not penetrated by roots, not seeded with coprolites of worms and other poop. Now we will annually improve it with natural forces: plants, worms, microbes and fungi. But this is no longer difficult. Our main activity is feed soil workers and all sorts of organic matter. Another important work - don't disturb them. They will do the rest themselves. And I assure you - they will do it as wonderfully as you never dreamed of.
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