Models of vintage sailboats with their own hands. Models of sailboats made of wood drawings

For lovers of modeling, sheets of pressed and glued wood veneer have always been one of the most sought-after materials. They are easy to cut, perfectly processed, drawings of ships made of plywood are easy to find on the net, and therefore many craftsmen begin their acquaintance with the modeling of various ships with plywood patterns.

Making models with your own hands is a very difficult task, requiring a significant amount of knowledge and a certain skill. In the article we will talk only about the most basic techniques, and you will hone your further skills yourself.

Work materials

If you want to make a small ship model, you will need the following materials:

Wood - cedar, linden, walnut or other wood, preferably soft and not fibrous. Wood blanks should be smooth, without knots and damage. Wood can be used both as a material for the main elements of the model (hull, deck), and for fine detailing.
Plywood is perhaps the most sought after material.. For ship modeling, either balsa or birch is used, since it is these types of wood that provide the minimum number of chips when sawing. Model ship plywood, as a rule, has a thickness of 0.8 to 2 mm.

Note! Sheets of beech veneer of small thickness are sometimes used as an alternative to birch veneer: although they are inferior in strength, they bend much easier.

Veneer - thin plates natural wood expensive breeds. As a rule, it is used for veneering, i.e. pasting the surface of inexpensive material.
Fasteners - thin chains, laces, threads, brass and copper studs.

In addition, we will definitely need wood glue, cardboard and tracing paper for transferring templates, etc. Fine detailing is made of metal casting. As an alternative to metal, colored polymer clay can be used.

Making a souvenir boat

Preparation for work

Any work begins with preparation, and modeling will by no means be an exception.

First we need to decide what we will build. If you have not dealt with ship modeling art before, then we recommend downloading plywood ship drawings on the net: as a rule, they contain all necessary information and understandable even to a beginner.

Note! Kits are available for sale that allow you to assemble a vessel from finished parts. For beginners, such kits will be interesting (although the price of most of them is very significant), but it’s better to master the technology from the basics.

After analyzing the drawing, we check whether everything you need is available. In principle, if something is missing, then it will be possible to buy it a little later, because building a ship (albeit a miniature one) is not a quick job!

After printing the drawing, we make templates for the main parts.
Transferring templates to .

Cutting and assembling parts

You can cut blanks both with the help of a manual and with the help of an electric model jigsaw.

The latter is more expensive, but with it you are less tormented when cutting out small details:

We make a starting hole in the plywood sheet, into which we insert a file or a jigsaw blade.
We cut out the part, trying to move exactly along the marked contour.
We process the sawn workpiece with a file, removing small chamfers along the edges and removing the inevitable chips and burrs.

Advice! Working on one element (deck, sides, keel, etc.), we immediately cut out all the parts necessary for assembly. So we will spend much less time, and the work will move faster.

When everything is ready, we start assembling our ship.

First, on the longitudinal beam - the keel - we put on the transverse frames. In the lower part of each frame, a groove is usually provided for fastening to a plywood keel.
For connection, you can use standard glue, or you can use special glue mixtures designed for ship modeling.
We attach the upper parts of the frames to the deck. For simple models, the deck is a single sheet of plywood, while for complex ones it can be multi-level.
After the glue on the frames dries, we begin to sheathe the sides with thin strips of plywood. The thickness of the material should be no more than 1.5 mm, because only in this case we will be able to bend the skin without the risk of damaging it.
For bending can be heated and humidified. After that, the material will bend without difficulty, and over time it will acquire a stable shape.

Note! The case for painting can be pasted over with a solid sheet. But to imitate plank sheathing, it is better to use strips up to 10 mm wide (depending on the scale).

We fix the glued plywood with clamps and clamps and leave to dry.

Finishing

By and large, this is where carpentry ends and art begins.

When the case is assembled and dried, we need:

Make from thin plywood and fix deck superstructures.

Increase the sides so that they protrude above the deck plane.
Paste the deck surface with wood veneer or draw it with an awl, imitating plank sheathing.
Make and install all the small parts like the steering wheel and steering blade.
Fix the masts with all additional devices (the so-called spars), set the sails and stretch this entire structure with the help of rigging threads.

In conclusion, all plywood parts must be stained and varnished. This will provide our souvenir with at least a couple of decades of preservation.

Conclusion

Almost everyone can make a simple plywood boat with their own hands - enough patience and minimal skills in working with a jigsaw (read also the article). But if you want to implement a complex drawing with many small details, then you will have to work hard. That's why we advise you to start with the simplest models, gradually increasing your skills!

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Similar content

depending on the purpose of the ship model, the model hull can be solid - monolithic, made of wood, bone, plastic, or hollow; in this case, tin, brass, plywood, cardboard, paper are added to the materials listed earlier.

In the manufacture of ship model hulls, a wide variety of designs and technological methods are used. These methods are not similar to one another, but they all have the same goal - to obtain a hull that exactly matches the theoretical drawing of the ship model. Therefore, no matter what method the ship modeller is guided by, whatever material he uses, first of all he needs to have a theoretical drawing and, using the outlines of frames or waterlines, make templates.

MONOLITHIC STRUCTURES

Enclosures made from solid material - be it wood, bone, plastic or any other material - are most often used for desktop, demonstration, historical models.

The construction of the model's body begins with the processing of the boards and gluing them together if the body is wooden. Sometimes a piece of plast, mass or bone of the appropriate size is looked for for the body. The sequence of manufacturing a monolithic body is shown in Figure 94. Having processed a beam in the form of a parallelepiped with an allowance against the largest overall dimensions of the model body, it is necessary to make markings. Starting the markup, the modeler must have in front of him an accurate theoretical drawing of the model. First you need to draw with a thickness gauge or a sharp awl a diametrical line on the deck, in the bow, along the bottom and in the stern. Risks must be deep and precise. Then lines of frames are drawn along the deck and side, the deck is outlined, the stem, stern and side line are applied. Beam marking is a very important moment in the work of a ship modeler, and here you need to remember a good Russian proverb: “measure seven times, and cut once”. A small mistake can lead to damage to the workpiece, all previously completed work will be wasted.

The next step in the manufacture of the hull is filing the timber. First of all, the bow and stern are cut off, then they are filed along the contour of the waterline and part of the deck is removed if the hull is made with a forecastle.

When the hull is roughly processed, they begin to shape it in accordance with the outlines of the frames. Frame templates should be cut out of either plywood or thick cardboard. Rough processing of the timber can first be done with an ax, then you should use chisels, a finishing planer, camp files, and sandpaper. When processing the hull, control your work with frame templates.

HOLLOW STRUCTURES

As experience shows, ship modellers rarely resort to the manufacture of one-piece, monolithic hulls. Even when installing a rubber engine on a model, it is necessary to have free space in the body for the location of hooks, a rubber band, and a propeller shaft. Therefore, modellers build mostly hollow hulls. There are a lot of ways to build buildings, the book describes only the most common ones.

^ Papier-mâché body

Correctly, it is not very easy to correctly build the hull of a ship model. Therefore, the leaders of the circles can at first recommend the construction of cases from papier-mâché to novice modellers. First of all, you need to make a blank. It can be made of wood as described above.

You can apply another method (Fig. 95). According to the theoretical drawing or type of sbszh, it is necessary to cut out the diametral plane and frames from 3-5-1 mm plywood; cut grooves in the frames and the diametral plane. Having assembled this simple design, it is necessary to fill the space between the frames with some plastic material. For this purpose, paraffin is suitable. Having made a box or a cardboard box exactly according to the size of the assembled plywood frame, lower the frame into it and fill it with molten paraffin. If paraffin cannot be obtained, use plasticine, clay, alabaster. When the material hardens, process the outer surface of the blank. This is not difficult to do, since the frames, which must be cut very precisely, will control the correct shape of the hull. After the blank of the case is ready, proceed to pasting it with paper. It is best to paste over the case with non-glued newsprint. Paper should not be cut with scissors, it is better to tear it with your hands, in this

In this case, the edge does not have a sharp edge, and when glued, the layers adhere well. The prepared paper is poured for several minutes with warm water. The blank of the model body is smeared with petroleum jelly, oil or some other fat and they begin to paste over with strips of paper. For gluing paper, a paste made from potato flour or dextrin glue is used. The first two layers of paper are laid out without glue, the next - on glue. Pieces of paper need to be superimposed very tightly on top of each other, without gaps, so that the edges of adjacent layers are covered with a new piece of paper. The superimposed layers of paper should form a smooth surface without bulges and depressions. For small cases, 10 layers of paper are enough, this is approximately 1.5-3 mm; for large hulls, the skin thickness should be increased to 4 mm.

Having pasted over the body blank with 3-4 layers, you need to let the paper dry for 10-12 hours, then put another 3-4 layers and dry again.

The body of the papier-mâché model can be made in another way: a blank is made of wood and, according to overall dimensions, with a small allowance, a box is made of 5 mm plywood (Fig. 96). Diluted gypsum or alabaster is poured into the box. Then, plentifully lubricating the disc with petroleum jelly or tavo-

Rice. 96. Papier-mâché case (2nd option):

/ - lowering the blank into liquid gypsum or paraffin: 2 - plaster mold; 3 - stacking sheets of paper; 4 - finished body in section; 5-plywood frame frame in papier-mâché case.

volume, lower it into gypsum and let the gypsum harden. When the blank is removed from the plaster, a mold is formed. Now it remains to lay out the form with several layers of paper as indicated above. With this method of manufacturing the body, the outer surface adjacent directly to the plaster mold is very smooth.

dugout hull

A blank for the dugout hull of a ship model is made in the same way as in the manufacture of a papier-mâché hull. The finished blank is installed on a workbench and proceed to gouging it

Rice. 97. Production of a dugout hull of a ship model (1st option):

/ - drilling with a brace; 2 - chiseling with a chisel; h - marking for drilling according to theoretical frames; 4 - section along the frame.

(Fig. 97). To facilitate and speed up the work, it is recommended to use a brace with perk and make a series of holes. Using the theoretical drawing, you can limit yourself to drilling only along the frames. Choose a tree from the inside of the case with a chisel and a semicircular chisel.

There is another way to make a dugout hull of a ship model (Fig. 98). The beam from which the body will be made must consist of two halves glued along the diametrical plane, a sheet of paper must be laid between the halves. Marking and initial sawdust]<у корпуса производят обычным способом. Затем нужно разъединить половинки и сделать пропилы ножовкой с внутренней стороны. Лишний материал выбирается с помощью стамески - сначала плоской, а потом полукруглой. Когда половинки корпуса обработаны, их склеивают. Через один шпангоут в корпус нужно врезать бимсы, на них будет крепиться палуба.

The manufacture of hollow foam hulls is not difficult, but rather laborious, the hulls turn out to be heavy, however, the manufacturing accuracy of the mol<ет быть очень высокой. Дерево хорошо поддается обработке и отделке.

Puff cases

Young shipbuilders can also be offered this option for manufacturing the model hull (Fig. 99). Taking a few boards, pre-

Rsh. 99. Production of a puff hull of a ship model:

/ - sawing out the contour of the waterline and the inner part; 2 - sawn waterline; 3 - (;; waterline spacing; 4, 5, 6 - section of the glued blank; T - finished blank.

Rice. 100. Scheme for manufacturing a composite hull of a ship model (1st and 2nd options):

/ - production of the bottom from the board; 2 - fastening of plywood frames and fenders; 3 - section of the composite body; sheathing with thin plywood; 5-installation of bow and stern ends, frame and stringers; 6 ~~ hull sheathing with thin plywood.

they are carefully planed and prepared for gluing. Then, from a theoretical drawing, from 3 to 5 waterlines are transferred to the boards, depending on the thickness of the boards. It is also planned how much wood needs to be removed from the inside. After that, with a circular hacksaw, the inner contour is first cut, and then the outer one along the waterline, with an allowance of 2-3 mm. When all the boards are sawn, they are glued together and compressed with clamps. It is necessary to let the horopio boards dry and only after that proceed with the processing of the wood. Processing is carried out with ordinary carpentry tools: chisels, planers, rasps, files, cycles.

Composite enclosures

The base - the lower part of the hull - is made from a board in strict accordance with the theoretical drawing, then frames are cut out of plywood, fenders are placed and “sewn” to them - nailed to glue - thin aviation plywood 0.5-1.0 mm thick. The ends - bow and stern - are made from solid pieces of wood.

This method of building hulls (Fig. 100) has become quite widespread among ship modellers, especially when building models with angular frames of frames - high-speed, gliding boats and similar types of ships. For full models with a significant cylindrical insert, this method may also be recommended.

Type-setting cases

The most common and rational way of manufacturing hulls for ship models should be considered the type-setting method widely used by ship modellers. Methods for building stacked hulls are shown in Figures 101, 102. The technology for building a hull according to this method is somewhat similar to the existing methods for building real ships. Work begins with sawing out frames and making kolobashkas - the bow and stern ends. Then the kit is installed on a marked bar - a kind of slipway, the place where the hull of the ship model will be assembled. Having installed the ends and frames, you need to connect them with a keel beam - kilson - and side beams - deck stringers. Then they begin to nail pre-prepared slats with a thickness of 3-4 mm. Place pieces of cardboard or plywood under the nail heads. This is necessary so that when pulling out the nails, the body of the model is not damaged. The assembly of all parts is carried out on glue. When the glue dries well and grabs the rails to the frames, the nails are pulled out with pliers. When building type-setting cases, instead of rails, thin aircraft plywood and veneer can be used as sheathing. In this case, it is recommended, in addition to the fender, to install one or two side stringers.

For sheathing, you can use thin cardboard or thick drawing paper. For some hulls of high-speed gliding boats, it is possible to cover the hull with fabric on waterproof glue of the AK-20 type.

The description of how to build hulls for ship models would be incomplete if we did not talk about the manufacture of metal hulls.

Metal cases

Making tin hulls is like building real ships; if we keep in mind that the thickness of the plating on small modern ships is 6-8-10 mm, then on a model reduced by 100 times compared to a real ship, the thickness of the plating should be equal to 0.06-0.1 mm. Such tin is hard to find, so you have to limit yourself to the available tin from cans; it is quite suitable for the manufacture of a metal case. Work should begin with the manufacture of a blank of the model case made of wood according to a theoretical drawing. It is recommended to take hardwood - oak, maple, ash, beech, in extreme cases, birch. On the blank, you need to mark the theoretical frames and cut the grooves, where the frames will then be inserted. The preparation of frames is very simple. On tin, a scriber draws a risk at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the sheet, then after another 5 mm the next risk, and after 10 mm a new one; on this risk, the sheet is folded and the resulting strip is cut off. Then, holding the ass in a vise at the marked risk, you need to straighten the bent edges of the frame-shelf with a hammer as shown in Figure 103. The frame blank is placed in the slot on the blank, and with the help of a mallet, the frame is shaped into a frame. The frame is fixed with a bracket made of a nail. In order for the frame not to protrude on the blank, it is recommended to make a cutout on it for the thickness of the tin; this will ensure the smoothness of the contours of the body. Having strengthened the frames in this way, it is necessary to prepare patterns of paper sheathing and cut out parts of the sheathing from tin. The length of each tin sheet for sheathing should be such that on the bottom the sheets of the starboard side overlap the sheets of the port side by 1-2 mm, and in height the sheets should reach the edge of the deck. The sheathing sheet must be chipped along the blank, giving it the shape of the model's body in this area, and secured with thin wallpaper studs. After fixing all the sheathing sheets, you can proceed to soldering the sheets, after removing the nails with which the sheathing sheet is attached to the frames. If the junction of two sections is not very accurate, it does not matter: add a little tin and fill in the gap between two adjacent sheets. And if one section overlaps another, trim the section that isn't soldered yet. It is not recommended to solder the bow and stern ends, since in this case it is difficult to remove the hull from the blank. To strengthen the nasal tip, it is advisable to solder the stem - a metal plate 1-1.5 mm thick. Inside the hull, when it is removed from the blank, you need to solder several beams - cross-links of the same profile as the frames. deck sheets

flooring should be joined on beams. At the extremities, deck sheets must have bent edges that go onto the sides from the outside.

The model ship's hull, made of tin, can be very precise in shape, and more than any other, it approximates the hulls of real ships.

Model ship hull test

When the body of the model is ready, it should be tested for water resistance, draft, stability. For this purpose, a so-called experimental pool is being built. It is best to build a pool from roofing iron (Fig. 104). A box made from it with dimensions of 3,000X700X

Rice. 104. Pool made of roofing iron for testing models.

Rice. 105. Plywood pool for competitions of small model ships.

X 500 mm is enclosed in a machine connected from boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm. The legs must have a cross section of at least 60X60 mm. The height of the pool is approximately 750 mm. Water tightness is ensured by puttying all joints and carefully painting the pool inside and out. A piece of water pipe with a tap is provided for draining water. A rubber hose is attached to the pipe. The pool is filled from the water pipe. Do not forget to put a grid on the outlet to prevent clogging of the drain pipe.

Figure 105 shows the appearance of the pool and its main dimensions. The dimensions of the pool can be changed depending on the size of the room where it will be located, as well as the available sheets of roofing iron. The idea of building a pool from plywood was proposed by Kuibyshev ship modellers *. The simplified pool is a flat tray with a length of about 6 thousand mm, a width of 1 thousand mm and a height of 350 mm. For the manufacture of the pool, 4 sheets of 3 mm plywood and 4 boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm and a length of 6,500 mm are required.

After assembling the pool, carefully putty all the grooves and joints. Outside and inside cover the pool with hot drying oil, let dry, then paint two or three times with oil paint. On the walls of the pool from the inside, make marks every 250 mm, departing from the front wall by 1 thousand mm.

The pool, when filled to a level of 250 mm, holds a little more than a ton of water. The water is drained through a hole with a rubber tube made in the back wall of the pool. When the pool is filled with water, the hole is closed from the inside with a cork.

In such a pool, competitions were held for small models of ships with rubber engines. A temporary pool can be constructed from tarpaulins. A box is made of boards according to the size of a tarpaulin or a machine. The tarpaulin is placed inside the box, the edges are attached with a rail with nails to the walls, after which water is poured. In such a temporary pool, water should not be kept for a long time. Water is released through a rubber tube.

* I. Aristov, Indoor competitions in marine modeling. Military Knowledge Magazine No. 1, 1954, p. 20.

TECHNOLOGY FOR MANUFACTURING SHIP MODELS

§ 8. MATERIALS AND THEIR PROCESSING

For the construction of models of ships and vessels, wood of various species is used. The main requirements for it are: strength with a minimum weight, ease of processing, fine-layeredness and the ability to stably maintain a given initial shape. Such tree species include linden, aspen and poplar. Hulls of models of ships and vessels are often made from them. Pine, spruce, cedar, maple, mahogany, balsa, alder and pear are also used in ship modeling.

Pine, cedar and spruce have high mechanical properties, prick and bend well, especially when soaked and steamed. They are used mainly for the manufacture of stringers and various rails in the construction of model cases. Model cases can also be made from these rocks. When making model parts, and especially stringers, it is necessary to avoid large-layer wood and select the smallest layer, with the number of annual layers of at least 10 per 1 cm. The layers must be parallel, otherwise the slats will break along the beveled layer. .

Maple has a hard, uniform, fine-grained white wood. It pricks badly, but peels well for veneer; polished and painted with any varnishes. Usually they are veneered (covered) with decks of models of merchant ships.

Mahogany is a name given to many species with wood ranging from light brown to dark reddish in color. It grows mainly in Africa, the Antilles and America. On the territory of the USSR it is found in Transcaucasia.

The wood of this tree is valued not only for its beautiful color and pattern, but also for its water resistance. It is easily cut and processed, well varnished and polished. In ship modeling, wood is used to make desktop sail models. The deck lined (collected) from separate thin strips (rails) looks especially beautiful.

The hard but brittle walnut wood is light gray to brown in color with very beautiful layering. Well polished, varnished and finished with wax. It is mainly used as a finishing material in the manufacture of desktop models of sailing ships.

Pear wood has a different color - from light pink to red, very dense and uniform. It is perfectly processed by cutting tools and well polished. It is used for inlaying models of sailing ships.

One of the main indicators of wood is density. The softer (looser) the wood, the smaller it is, and vice versa.

Density of some types of wood, g/cm3

Birch - 0.65 Linden - 0.48

Pear - 0.73 Poplar - 0.47

Walnut - 0.73 Spruce - 0.47

Maple - 0.75 Alder - 0.54

Red Aspen - 0.43

wood - 0.54 Balsa - 0.1-0.24

Pine - 0.51

In addition to wood, many other materials are used in ship modeling. So, for the manufacture of hulls and superstructures of models of ships and vessels, foam plastics, plexiglass, polystyrene, celluloid and fiberglass are used. Foam plastics lend themselves well to processing on woodworking machines and hand carpentry cutting tools. Beginning modellers can use them to make ship hulls, and it is desirable to paste over the hulls of large models with a layer of fiberglass on epoxy resin ED-5.

Plexiglas and polystyrene - sheet materials. From them, you can make various superstructures, as well as stamp the hulls of small ship models (500-600 mm) in a heated form. These materials adhere well with dichloroethane or pear essence.

Fiberglass is used in ship modeling for gluing model hulls and manufacturing parts of complex configuration. Ship modellers usually use fiberglass with a thickness of 0.25-0.4 mm of grades TSF (b), ASTT (b) - 8, ASTT (b) C, ASTT (b) C2 and ASTT-9.

For many crafts, sheet metal is used - steel, brass, copper and tinplate.

§ 9. ADHESIVES USED IN SHIP MODELING

When building models of ships and vessels, various adhesives are used: protein, nitrocellulose and resin.

Joiner's (glutinous) glue during normal preparation (on water) is very afraid of moisture. But it can be made relatively waterproof if cooked according to the following recipe: broken into small pieces, put in a jar and poured with natural drying oil. When the glue swells (after 12-13 hours), put the jar in another bowl filled with water and heat until the glue is completely dissolved. It can only be consumed hot. It dries one and a half to two times longer than cooked on water.

It should be remembered that it should not be brought to a boil. If it boils during cooking, it will almost completely lose its adhesive ability.

Casein glue is more water resistant and is used for gluing textiles and paper products. According to the strength of gluing, the following grades of this glue are distinguished: extra (B-107), first grade (B-105) and ordinary (OB).

The adhesive solution is prepared as follows: 2 parts are added to one part of the powder, and 1.7 parts of water for a thicker glue. The resulting slurry must be stirred until it turns into a homogeneous mass without lumps and grains. The adhesive is suitable for use within 3-5 hours (depending on the composition). It is applied to both surfaces of the parts to be glued, kept in air for 3-5 minutes. Then the products are connected and pressed into clamps. Complete curing of the adhesive at room temperature occurs within 20-24 hours.

Nitrocellulose waterproof adhesives include enamel, AK-20, as well as any other nitro-varnishes: AB-4, 754, 900 and 930. They are available ready-to-use.

Nitroglues are used for gluing wood, fabrics, celluloid, and leather. They can be thinned with solvents 646, 647 and WFD.

When gluing, both surfaces are covered with two or three layers of glue, allowing each time to dry "until tacky". After that, one of the surfaces is lubricated again, connected to the other and the product is tightened with clamps.

Nitroglue can also be prepared by dissolving celluloid in acetone or in any of the above solvents. These adhesives are used as a primer for nitro putty floating models and for the preparation of quick-drying putties with the addition of talc (baby powder), chalk and sawdust.

Polyvinyl phenolic adhesives are very water resistant and are made by mixing polyvinyl and phenolic resins. Before applying such an adhesive, the parts must be heated.

Adhesives BF-1 and BF "-2 are used for gluing aluminum, wood, steel, plastics, ceramics, fiber, leather, fabric and paper. When gluing parts, a thin layer of glue is applied to the prepared surfaces and kept in air "until tacky" (not less than 30 minutes). 3-4 days.

Glue BF-6 is used for gluing fabric, which must be soaked and squeezed well before gluing. Lubricated with glue, it is heated with an iron through a damp piece of cloth until the glue dries.

All these adhesives are sold in stores ready-made.

Dichloroethane glue is used for gluing plexiglass, polystyrene and polymeric materials. It is prepared by

dissolving plexiglass chips in dichloroethane or pear essence. The surfaces to be joined are generously smeared two or three times with an adhesive solution, dried “until tacky”, smeared again and connected. For complete drying when gluing under pressure, it takes 4 hours, without pressure 8-10 hours.

Epoxy-based adhesives are the strongest and most water-resistant.

The chemical industry of the USSR produces a large number of resins of various grades. But the most widespread among them are epoxy resins of the ED-5, ED-6, EDP and E-37 brands.

Epoxy resins ED-5 and ED-6 are a low-viscosity transparent liquid from light yellow to brown. To obtain an epoxy adhesive or an impregnating compound (for example, for gluing model cases), a hardener must be added to the epoxy resin. Depending on the type of hardener introduced, hot (with heating up to 200 ° C) or cold curing adhesive can be obtained, which hardens at room temperature. Ship modellers are more satisfied with the latter. But it can also be heated up to 70 ° C, then the gluing process is accelerated, and the strength increases.

To obtain a cold curing epoxy adhesive, one of the hardeners (8-15%) must be introduced into the ED-5 or ED-6 resin: hexamethylenediamine (HMD), pyridine, piperidine, or most often polyethylenepolyamine (PEPA).

Epoxy compound adhesives with high strength - adhesive bonds have low shrinkage, chemical, antifungal and moisture resistance. When gluing, they do not require the use of high pressure.

Cold curing adhesives should be prepared immediately before their use, as they quickly harden (with the introduction of a hardener of 8-15% for 20-40 minutes).

The parts to be bonded must be degreased. On the prepared surfaces, two layers of glue are applied one after the other, allowing each layer to dry "until tacky". After that, the parts are pressed in and kept for 24 hours at a temperature of 18-25°.

If a filler is introduced into the epoxy glue - aluminum powder, chalk or talc, then you can get a good, durable putty.

When gluing parts made of fiberglass (model hulls, superstructures, etc.), it must be remembered that ED-6 resin is very viscous and the compound based on it does not impregnate dense fiberglass well. Therefore, one of the components is introduced into the adhesive as a plasticizer (diluent): DEG-1 epoxy resin, ethyl cellosolf, dibutyl phthalate or acetone. To prevent the fiberglass from sticking to the shape of the product, a so-called separating layer is applied between the blank and the fiberglass. To apply this layer, you can use a 10-15% solution of polyethylene in white spirit, wax, paste for polishing parquet floors and other materials.

Epoxy glue is widely used in the repair of ships, cars and tractors. Applying plasters from several layers of fiberglass impregnated with an epoxy compound can provide very high strength and tightness of such patches.

Epoxy compounds are toxic. The most toxic part of epoxy compounds are hardeners.

Vapors and dust of hardeners and compounds are irritating to the mucous membranes of the nose, throat and eyes. Prolonged contact with hardener fumes or dust can cause severe injury. Therefore, when working with epoxy compounds and hardeners, the following precautions must be observed:

all operations for the preparation and use of epoxy compounds should be carried out in an isolated and well-ventilated area;

dust after processing of cured compounds should be carefully removed with a wet rag;

work tables before working with epoxy adhesives, cover with paper, which should be removed after contamination;

when working with adhesives, use rubber gloves;

during the working day, periodically wash hands and face with warm water and dry with disposable towels;

splashes of resin, compound and hardener that have got on the skin should be immediately removed with a gauze swab moistened with acetone, then rinse the skin with soapy water;

do not allow persons whose skin is hypersensitive to work with epoxy compounds.

Eating at the workplace is strictly prohibited.

§ 10. METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING MODEL BODIES

One of the main operations in the construction of a ship model is the manufacture of the hull. It can be made from various materials: a whole piece of wood, glued boards, papier-mâché, tin and fiberglass.

When starting work, the ship modeler must remember that correctly executed hull lines provide good seaworthiness of the model.

Therefore, when building a model case, one must strictly adhere to the theoretical drawing and follow the sequence of operations of the chosen method.

For desktop and small self-propelled models, the body can be made from a whole block of wood, which must be straight-grained, without cracks and through knots. If the wood is damp, it must be dried (aged) at room temperature, but not near the stove and not in the sun. Otherwise, it can be “led” and even “torn”.

The dimensions of the bar must correspond to the largest dimensions of the model hull: length, width and height of the side.

On one side of the bar, a line of the diametrical plane (a plane dividing the body in half along the length) is drawn along the ruler with a pencil. Then the bar is broken into spaces (the distance between the frames) and the outline of the deck is drawn (Fig. 22, a). Having processed the bar with an ax and a planer (along the drawn contour), the stem and stern of the model are drawn and also processed.

After that, according to a theoretical drawing, a transom is drawn on plywood, cut out with a jigsaw, smeared with glue and nailed to the stern of the blank with carnations. On the sides of the blank, the lines for the location of the frames are applied with a pencil. Then, according to the frame templates (Fig. 22, b), cut out of plywood, the body is brought to the desired size with a file and sandpaper.

Before gouging the hull, it is necessary to drill a series of holes along the deck and use chisels to select wood (Fig. 23). The thickness of the sides should be at least 6-8 mm.

For large cases of models, so that they are not “led”, it is better to make a bar in typesetting. Two options can be offered. The first is a body of horizontally glued boards. Their thickness should correspond to the distance between the waterlines on the theoretical drawing. On each board, a diametrical line, spacings are drawn and the corresponding contour of the waterline is drawn (Fig. 24, a). Having processed the board along the contour of the waterline from the outside, it is necessary to cut the wood from the inside, leaving an edge 6-8 mm wide (Fig. 24, b). The last board (bottom) is not sawn from the inside. The processed boards are glued into a bag (Fig. 24, v). Now it is enough to cut off the protruding corners and bring the case, using templates (Fig. 24, d), to the desired size.

The second option is to build a hull from vertically glued boards (Fig. 24, e). In this case, buttocks are drawn on the processed boards from the projection of the theoretical drawing "side". Here, too, each board is first processed along the outer contour of the buttocks and the inner part is cut out. The two extreme boards are left solid. Glued and dried boards are processed, as in the previous case.

Using these methods, the construction of the model bodies can be greatly simplified, while they turn out to be more symmetrical.

For the manufacture of a stacked hull, several methods can be proposed, the most common and rational is the construction of the hull on the deck flooring.

First you need to make a slipway board (Fig. 25). She should be well chiselled. A diametric line is drawn on the board and it is divided into spacings according to the theoretical drawing. Then, from the half-width projection drawing, the deck is drawn onto plywood 2-3 mm thick and sawn out. On the deck, it is necessary to mark the center line and the installation locations of the frames, and then make cuts along the sides to fix the frames in them.

The deck is installed on the slipway board. To give it a longitudinal deflection, wooden blocks are placed under it. The height of each block is determined according to the theoretical drawing

Rice. 22. Wood block marking (a) and processing of the body according to templates

frames ( b)

Rice. 23. Hollowing out the model body

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Rice. 25. Installation of the deck on the slipway:

1 - a line for measuring the height of the bars, 2 - deck, 3 - deck flooring, 4 - stacking bars, 5 - slipway board

rice.26. The sequence of manufacturing a type-setting case:

a - frame prepared for installation on deck, b- keel frame, v - installation of bosses on the keel frame, G- part of the assembled hull on the slipway

"side view". To do this, you need to connect the bow end of the hull with the stern with a straight line. The distance between the side of the deck and the line drawn on each spacing will be the height of each block. The blocks are nailed to the slipway board, a deck is laid on them and its ends are fixed with carnations.

Now you can start making frames. To do this, from a theoretical drawing (“body” projection), using tracing paper or carbon paper, the frames are transferred to plywood 6-8 mm thick, then cut out with a jigsaw. The edges of the sawn frames are processed with files and sandpaper. In the upper part of the frames (along the sides), spikes are left that will be inserted into deck cutouts (Fig. 26, a). In the lower part of the frames, grooves are cut out for installing the keel frame, which is drawn according to the theoretical drawing of the “side” projection and cut out of plywood with a thickness of 6-8 mm (Fig. 26, b).

In the bow and stern of the hull set, one or two spacings, bosses are installed from boards of soft wood - linden, alder, poplar (Fig. 26, c). The bosses are processed along the profile of the body with a rasp and sandpaper.

After that, the entire set is temporarily assembled, for which all the frames are inserted with spikes into the deck grooves and fastened with a keel frame.

Putting stringers on the frames, mark the places of their installation. Their number depends on the size of the model. The larger the model, the more stringers.

Having finished marking, the entire set is disassembled in order to cut grooves in the frames and bosses for laying stringers (Fig. 26, d). Before the final assembly, windows are cut out in the deck for access to the model, and all joints are coated two or three times with nitro glue and dried. Further, with the help of carnations and glue, all stringers are fixed. Having removed the dried-out set of the body from the slipway board, they process it with a drach file and coat it on the outside two or three times with nitro-glue. Now you can start sheathing the hull with 1.5 mm thick plywood or thick cardboard.

Sheathing sheets are glued and nailed. When the case dries well, the studs can be removed or sunk with a core. Having processed the body with a file and sandpaper, it must be smeared two or three times with nitro-glue, so that in the future the nitro putty will stick to it more firmly. For better strength, it can be pasted over with one layer of fiberglass using PN-1 or ED-5 resin.

It is very easy to build a papier-mâché case. It is glued out of newsprint on a blank made by one of the methods discussed above.

To prevent the first layers of paper from sticking to the blank of the case, it is coated with grease or petroleum jelly. The paper is torn into pieces approximately 60 X 80 mm in size. Cutting it with scissors is not recommended. The first two or three layers are applied to the blank without glue, directly on the fat layer. Glue is best used from potato starch. Pieces of paper are superimposed so that each next one overlaps the previous one.

For cases of small dimensions (700-900mm) it is enough to stick 9-11 layers of paper to get boards 2.5-3 mm thick. It is necessary to glue in several stages. After applying three or four layers, you should let them dry. Then, lightly sanding with sandpaper, stick the same amount. Repeat this process several times.

Having removed the finished hull from the blank, two or three frames are glued into it and covered with a deck. Then everything is cleaned with sandpaper and, using nitro glue, pasted over with gauze or a nylon stocking. Then the body can be puttied and painted.

The easiest way to make a metal case is by soldering small pieces of tinned sheet 0.3-0.4 mm thick on a blank. You can also use thin brass for this.

Rice. 27. Making a case from tin:

a- a body made by soldering from pieces of tin, b - laying a flat frame into a blank ; v- a method of manufacturing a T-frame, G- installation of T-frames; d- sheathing of the body with sheets of tin, 1 - flat frame, 2 - tee frame,

3 - sheathing sheet

or copper. Pieces can be of various sizes, depending on the complexity of the contours of the hull. In the bow and stern parts of the model, the ode will be smaller than in the middle, since the middle part of the hull has less complex contours (Fig. 27, a).

The second method is soldering the hull along flat frames cut out of tin and laid in the grooves of the blank (Fig. 27, b). T-shaped (T-shaped) frames are also used, as they create good strength for the hull. Such frames are made in the following way. In the middle of a strip of tin with a width of 20-24 mm, a risk is applied and the strip is bent in half along it. Then, retreating 5 mm from the edge of the bent part of the strip, a second risk is drawn, along which the workpiece in a vice is unbent on two sides and leveled with a mallet (Fig. 27, v). Before installing the frames, cuts are made on the blank. To do this, several hacksaw blades are folded into a package, equal in thickness to the width of the frames, and the middle blade should protrude by 5-6 mm. The cuts should be such that the frames are flush with the blank, this

provides smooth body contours. Their upper edges are nailed to the blank with small carnations (Fig. 27, d).

Having installed all the frames in their places, you can start soldering
cases made of strips of tin. For each sheathing make you
a cut out of paper. Having cut a sheet of tin along it, it must be laid
in its place and "grab" with solder in three or four places to the span
gotam, and the edges of the sheet should only half overlap
frame (Fig. 27, e).

Having installed the first sheathing sheet, all the others are cut out one by one and also “grabbed” to the frames. Thus, the entire body of the model is collected. After that, it must be chipped with a mallet, and then all joints should be properly soldered.

Before removing from the blank, the body is carefully processed with a file and sandpaper.

Now you can solder the stem and stern, as well as install the required number of bulkheads, deadwoods and helmports in the hull. Having cut out the required number of windows for access to the mechanisms of the model, the deck is put in place and soldered. After soldering, be sure to wash the body with a solution of baking soda or warm soapy water to remove any acid residue. Before priming, it is recommended to wipe the body with acetone or solvent.

For gluing a fiberglass case, wooden blanks are used, made by one of the previously described methods. The finished blank is carefully treated with sandpaper, all holes and cracks are puttied, and then a separating layer is applied to it. To do this, you can use heated paraffin, liquefied with kerosene, or mastic for rubbing parquet floors. It is necessary to ensure that the surface of the blank is well covered with a separating layer, otherwise the fiberglass may stick to it and it will be impossible to remove it. The body is glued with polyester resin PN-1 or epoxy resins ED-5 and ED-6. For resin PN-1, the hardening components are cobalt naftanate, which is added to the resin 8%, and the accelerator - hyperiz (it is added 3%). Cobalt naftanate is introduced into the resin first. When using epoxy resins, the plasticizer is dibutyl phthalate - 8%, and the hardener is polyethylenepolyamine (it is added 10%).

Epoxy resins are slightly thicker than polyester resins, and it is recommended to thin them with toluene or acetone, which is added 8-10%. 3-6 layers of fiberglass are glued onto the blank, depending on its thickness.

Do it in the following way. Having smeared the blank with resin, the first layer of fabric is applied and carefully leveled. Then they coat again and apply a second layer of fabric. Each layer must be ironed well so that no air remains between them. Properly diluted resin hardens within 10-12 hours, so the next day, without removing the body from the blank, you can process it with files and sandpaper, and then cover it with putty.

coy, made on the basis of the same resin. To do this, it is necessary to add a filler - talc. After processing with skins, the body is removed from the blank. And to increase the strength, insert 4 - 5 bulkheads. Then the deck is glued with the same resin, having previously made cutouts in it for access to the mechanisms.

§ 11 COLORING OF MODELS

For painting models of ships and vessels, oil, enamel and nitro-enamel paints are most often used.

In order for the quality of painting to be good, it is necessary to observe all stages of the technological process, consisting of surface preparation, priming, local and continuous puttying, sanding with sandpaper, applying paint and sanding it with thin sandpaper, polishing with pastes.

When preparing the surface of a wooden model for painting, the body is treated with a planer, file and sandpaper, and defects (burrs, cracks, loose knots) are also eliminated. Metal models are processed with files, skins and degreased with soda solution or soapy water. Priming of the body under oil paints for better adhesion of subsequent layers is carried out with a special primer No. 000a, and if it is not available, you can use natural drying oil or liquid oil paint (minimal lead is better). For nitro paints, primer No. 000, AK-20 glue, enamel and nitro varnishes can be used.

The primer is applied to the surface two or three times. Each layer, after drying, is treated with fine emery cloth.

Puttying is designed to level the surface. Local puttying (filling holes, scratches) is done with a thick putty. After drying, it is sanded and the model is puttyed with liquid putty in several layers.

The composition of putty for oil paints:

1. Talc or chalk - 350 g, drying oil - 125 g, paint (preferably red lead or white lead) - 25 g;

2. Chalk - 350 g, oil varnish - 100 g; iron minium - 40 g.

Thick putty is applied with a spatula, knife or a piece of elastic rubber 6-8 mm thick, and liquid putty with a soft brush, flute or sprayer.

Under nitro-paints apply putty ASh-30, ASh-24 and ASh-32.

Nitro putty can be prepared by mixing talc (baby powder) on AK-20 nitro glue, enamel or any other nitro varnish.

Grinding is necessary to eliminate roughness after puttying or painting.

At the beginning of work (after local puttying), skins No. 48-80 are used ; after the first layers of continuous puttying - No. 80-

120; the last layers of putty are sanded with sandpaper No. 000-

Wet sanding is recommended to save skins. When using a waterproof skin, the surface is abundantly moistened with water. If there is no waterproof skin, then grind it with a regular one soaked in kerosene. After each sanding with kerosene, before coating, the surface is thoroughly washed with soda or soapy water and dried.

The quality of model painting largely depends on the practical skills of the ship modeler, on the ability to prepare the surface and on the brands of paints used.

Usually, painting is carried out with paint sprayers of the KR brands (KR-10, KR-11, KR-12). Compressors can be used any, giving a pressure of up to 3 atm, including small-sized S-511 and S-21.

The position of the paint sprayer should be such that the jet from it is directed perpendicular to the surface to be painted, the distance to which should be within 250-300 mm. It is necessary to move the gun evenly, at a constant speed. If you move too fast, the paint will lay down in a thin layer, if you move slowly, it will be thick, as a result of which smudges may appear. Paint should be applied in successive parallel stripes. Each strip should overlap the adjacent one by 10-20 mm.

It is necessary to monitor the correct ratio of air pressure and the density of the paint coming from the paint sprayer. The air pressure should be 2-3 atm. The more pressure, the thicker the paint should be, and vice versa. This is determined empirically on a test surface. Small details can be painted with a simple spray gun. For this purpose, nitro paint is diluted quite liquidly.

When painting with brushes, the type of brush hair is of no small importance. The best brushes are made of squirrel, ferret, badger and bear fur.

Before starting work, new brushes need to be wrapped (tied) at the base with a thread or thin twine. Under thick paints, the part free from strapping is made shorter, under liquid ones - longer.

During painting, the brush is held at an angle of 45-55° to the surface and the coating is applied with light and free movements. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the paint lays down in a uniform thin layer and does not form streaks.

When painting a model with nitro paints, you need to remember that they dry very quickly. Therefore, it is not necessary to draw twice in one place with a brush. Strokes should be made short, in one direction. If a large drop has fallen on the surface, it must be rubbed off immediately.

Nitro-paints are diluted with RDV solvents, No. 000, 647, 648 and 649. They cannot be diluted with acetone, as the paint dries out and cracks from it.

The coating is usually produced with oil paints in 2-3, and with nitro paints in 10-15 layers,

Rice. 28. Load line:
a - for dry cargo ships and tankers; b - for passenger ships

The first coat of paint helps to detect remaining defects on the prepared surface. They must be removed by re-puttying and grinding.

Before applying each subsequent layer, the previous one must be well dried. Drying time for oil paints should be at least 24 hours.

When painting a model, polishing is the final step. It is produced with a special polishing paste for cars or GOI paste. The paste is applied to a soft rag, a piece of felt or felt and in a circular motion the surface is brought to a mirror finish. Then it is rubbed with polishing water, kerosene or thin oil. The coloring of the model should not differ from the coloring of real ships of this type. We can recommend the following basic rules when choosing a color scheme (color).

The surface part of warships is painted in various shades of ball (gray) color. To get it, add 5 - 7% black paint.

The surface part of passenger ships (hull and superstructures) is painted white. The hull of cargo and cargo-passenger ships is covered with black paint, and superstructures - white. The chimneys of ships with a white hull are white, those with a black hull are black.

The underwater part is painted with green or red paint. The waterline is recommended to be beaten off with a strip of celluloid.

Now it is appropriate to recall the load line and how it should be depicted on the sides of a model merchant ship.

If the load line is not applied to the model of the vessel, then at the competitions during the bench evaluation of the model, you can get penalty points.

The load line is a circle or a figure resembling a comb (Fig. 28, a and b). A horizontal line is drawn through the center of the circle

the continuation of which on the "comb" is indicated by the letter L (summer stamp). This is the so-called main brand.

When sailing in winter, for the sake of safety of navigation and successful fight against a storm, the ship should not be overloaded. It should have a smaller draft and a larger freeboard, i.e., a larger margin of buoyancy. This is taken into account on the load line and marked with the letter

3 (winter stamp).

The North Atlantic is especially inhospitable in winter, a ship sailing there should be as light as possible. The allowable draft for such navigation is marked by the WSA line (winter mark for the North Atlantic).

Several "comb" lines are applied above the main - summer mark. When sailing in the tropics, the weather is usually favorable for the voyage, there is no danger of icing. The ship here can take more cargo, have a larger draft and a smaller freeboard. This is marked by the T line (tropical precipitation).

The greater the density of water, the greater its buoyancy. When a ship enters a river from the sea, its draft increases. Therefore, two more lines are marked on the "comb" - P (fresh grade) and TP (tropical fresh grade).

According to international rules, which are mandatory for all maritime powers of the world, the shape of the load line is the same everywhere. The only difference is in the letters. On Soviet merchant ships they put the letters P and C (the mark of the register of the USSR).

Load marks of foreign merchant ships are indicated by the letters of the English alphabet. For example, L and R stand for the English Society Lloyd's Register, A and B for the American Bureau of Shipping, etc.

On ships that carry timber, as well as cargo and passengers,

apply additional marks.

On timber carriers, an additional drawing is made on the load line towards the stern of the circle with the addition of the letter L (L) to all letter names - a forest freeboard.

The load line is welded in the form of steel strips on the side of the vessel to the midship frame from each side and painted in a color different from the color of the freeboard. For example, if the edge is black, then the stamp is painted white, if the edge is ball-colored, then the stamp is painted green or black.

Warships do not carry cargo lines. On them, the stems on both sides have the so-called deepening marks, or, as they are also called, draft marks. In no case should they be confused with the load line, since they serve only to measure the actual bow and stern draft at a given ^

Dimple marks are also applied on large ships, on both sides

amidships, in addition to the load line

Typically, recess marks on one side are indicated in the metric system, on the other - b feet. In the first case, the height of the figures and the distance between them is 1 dm, in the second 0.5 feet.

You can create a model of an old ship yourself without buying a ready-made design for assembly. In order for the result to turn out to be of high quality, you will have to show a lot of patience and perseverance.

materials

To make a historic ship with your own hands, prepare:

plywood or cork;
thin strips of wood, bamboo or rattan;
wood glue;
paper;
pencil.

In this model of the ship, not plywood, but cork wood was used as the basis. The choice was due to the ease of working with the material. Unlike plywood, where you need a saw for cutting, with cork everything was done with a simple sharp knife. You can also take thin strips for work from any material, they just need to bend well. Joiner's glue should not be replaced with either hot or even super glue.

Step 1. On paper, you need to draw the main details of the future ship. You can also print them if you find layouts suitable for you on the Internet. Please note that your ideas may change slightly during the course of work. This is not critical if you just want to build an old-style ship, and not repeat an exact copy of a particular ship.

Step 2. For convenience, work with the ship was divided into several parts. The ship itself was also assembled. Most of the time was taken by the manufacture of the central part of the ship. Then the front, back and deck parts with the mast were made.

Step 3. First of all, according to the already existing sketches, make the skeleton of the ship. Be sure to make sure that all of its edges are symmetrical. If there is a slight deviation somewhere, correct these flaws. Check that the ribs are exactly at an angle of 90 degrees when attaching.

Step 4. After the skeleton is ready, start decorating its side parts. To do this, glue a long rail along the center line of the side part. Focus on it further when you glue the rest. Reiki is better to stick in stages to make your work easier. Apply enough glue, but make sure that it does not flow down the slats. Fasten the rails additionally with clamps, leaving them in this form until the glue dries completely. After the glue has dried, remove the clamps and continue gluing the rails in the next section.

Step 5. All places where gaps form between the rails, work with epoxy. All the details of the ship, as soon as you are ready, cover with varnish for wood.

Step 6. After the main work, proceed to the finish. You can hide all possible aesthetic flaws at this stage. To do this, carefully glue the rails over the places with obvious defects to hide them. From rattan, you can make a horizontal line that emphasizes the smooth forms of the ship. The base of the ship is ready.

Step 7. Masts must be made from wooden rods and small flat pieces of wood. There will be two masts in the ship. Adjust the rods in advance to the calculated dimensions. To attach the masts, cut out two pieces of wood measuring 4 x 2 cm. Drill holes in them for the mast rods. From small rods, make a reinforcing lattice and assemble the entire structure completely.

Step 8. Make a template for the deck of a ship out of paper and build a deck part from wooden strips based on it. After letting it dry thoroughly, drill holes for attaching the masts. Insert and glue the masts. From plywood, make the side rails of the ship.

Step 9. Glue the wooden strips on the front and back of the ship in the same way. They need to be glued on the side and in the deck part, and rods and handrails should be made from pieces of plywood. All parts are fastened with carpentry glue. Do not forget to raise the back of the ship with steps.

Rains and streams create conditions for children to launch homemade boats. Such games will turn walks into pleasure, and the creation of home-made masterpieces into an exciting adventure. Any dreams can be easily realized from paper, cardboard, tubes, wood, polystyrene foam, walnuts, vegetables, using different techniques.

Cork boat

There are always bottle caps. This is the easiest way to create crafts for the little ones.

Three plugs need to be glued - this is the base of the future ship. The role of the mast will be performed by an ordinary toothpick. The sail can be, for example, a piece of colored paper. In 2 places we pierce the sail with a toothpick, fasten it to the central cork - our ship is ready to go.

To steer the ship, you can attach a pin with an eyelet to the outer cork. Tie a strong thick thread with a spool over the eye of the pin. Now the child can pull the ship by the rope, where it needs to be, or return it if it sails far away.

cardboard boat

To do this, we need milk packaging made of cardboard. One long side is completely cut out; on the outside, for beauty, you can paste over the product with colored paper.

The side parts can be made curly, for example, the center can be made just below the nose. Decorate the craft with a picture, write a name. You can cut a small round hole - a porthole.

In the center we fix the mast from a thin stick, a sail on it. From the central sail, you can stretch the rope to the bow of the ship, hang the 2nd sail.

To control, fix a strong thread with a spool on the nose of the product.

You can make a more complex but spectacular frigate out of thick cardboard that was left after acquiring equipment or phones.

Master class on boat crafts

Exactly according to the patterns (see diagram), cut out the base of the boat (3-part deck and bottom), then glue it with tape or tape.

For a pirate frigate, round loopholes carved from 2 sides at the stern look good.

To hold the mast, you need to glue several small circles of cardboard or cotton pads, making a hole in the center that is necessary for the diameter of the mast.

Then glue these circles with a mast and a sail with double-sided tape or glue to the bottom of the frigate.

Color the product or paste over with colored paper, more often children want blue with white anchors.

For craftsmen, you can decorate the nose of the frigate with a dragon or a sea maiden. This has been done in past centuries.

boat made of wood

You can collect small branches that have fallen from trees in the square (park). With strong thread or a glue gun, connect the branches together to make a raft. Along the edges of the branches (across all), fasten 2 branches for the strength of the structure.

An ice cream stick, split in two, makes a great mast. A piece of fabric or paper will make a sail. Wrap them around the mast and you can send the yacht on its way.

Styrofoam boat

Let's analyze another hand-made boat with our own hands. If after the purchase there is a box of foam left, do not rush to throw it away. This is a great material for building a yacht!

The small box can be fully used, fix the mast stick inside.

You can stretch tight threads from the mast to the corners of the boat, hang multi-colored flags on them.

From large foam, you can cut a small piece for the base. Glue 1-2 pieces of foam plastic on top - guns. Pierce the cannons with small sticks or matches, they can be painted with felt-tip pens in different colors: red, yellow, blue.

From an ice cream stick, make a mast with a colored flag, it can be plain or paint a white sheet with pirate symbols.

Matchbox ship

Bright voluminous do-it-yourself boat crafts are made from matchboxes.

You will need:

matchboxes - 3 pcs.;
cardboard;
colored paper (yellow, red);
straw for drinks - 1 pc.;
scissors and glue.

Detailed instructions on how to make a boat:

Matchboxes need to be glued: 2nd box with short sides, and the 3rd one on top in the middle (looks like a typewriter). Wait for complete drying.

We cut off a strip of colored paper equal to the width of the box, and the length is A4.

Then we need to glue our 3 glued boxes on all sides, as shown in the figure. For example, you can take blue paper.

Cut off a strip of dark (blue) color 1-1.5 cm wide from cardboard (thick paper). We bend in the middle, we get the bow of the ship. Glue this strip to the sides of the boxes, and the ends of the paper should close the matchboxes. The bow of the boat will be sharp and empty.

On thick paper (cardboard), outline the outline of the craft - this will be the bottom. We fix the bottom with a side on the bow of the vessel.

It is convenient to make a mast from a plastic straw for drinks, if not, you can twist a thin tube from plain paper. We begin to twist from the corner diagonally of the sheet. Make a small hole in the top matchbox for the mast.

Lubricate well with PVA glue for better bonding and insert the mast into the boxes.

Sails can be made from 2 pieces of colored paper of different sizes, preferably bright yellow (red). On the sides of the short sides, you can make even holes for the mast with a hole punch.

Separately, in a different color (for example, blue), we make a double checkbox, as shown in the figure.

We pass 2 sails through the holes, you can paint them. On top of the mast glue the flag. Since we have a double flag, it will hold the sails.

The guys love pirates, so you need to draw the emblem of pirates on sails.

original ship ideas

The base of a pirate frigate can be a plastic bottle or a shampoo bottle. Pierce them with a wooden skewer, glue the sail and the flag. Make sailors out of bottle caps, dress them with multi-colored outfits: scarves and clothes (glue a piece of fabric). Draw faces and attach the figures to the bottle, vial.

For a deep boat, for example, raw zucchini is perfect. Cut out the middle in the center, insert the tubes on the sides with large leaves from plants (you can use paper), plant sailors (pupae). The name of the boat is easily scratched on the side.

Glue ice cream sticks, preferably in 2 rows in different directions. Fix the mast with a bright flag.

In autumn, you can take half of the shell of an empty walnut. Fix the branch mast with plasticine (glue), pierce a yellow (red, green) leaf of poplar, maple, etc. with it. Colored boats are very beautiful.