In addition to purely practical functions, such as protecting your personal space from prying eyes and the penetration of unwanted "guests", the fence performs an equally important aesthetic function. A good fence should fit into the environment and not look like an alien element against the background of the overall architectural composition of your home.
Do-it-yourself fence. Photo
A wide range of materials used today for the construction of fences, gives complete freedom of creative thought and flight of fancy. And master classes with step-by-step instructions for making a fence, even for beginners, allow you to build a fence for your house or plot on your own. In our article you will find all the information on how to make a fence with your own hands.
DIY stone fence
Stone remains one of the most popular materials for building a fence. In terms of reliability and durability, stone is far superior to other fencing materials. From the depths of centuries, it was the stone masonry of fortified buildings that survived and came down to us. How to build a stone fence with your own hands?
Construction stages
The whole process of erecting a stone fence consists of the following steps:
- Layout and layout
- Foundation laying
- erection of pillars
- masonry
layout
First of all, we create a preliminary drawing, with an exact indication of the height and length of the building, as well as indicating the location of the gate and gate.
markup
We mark the boundaries of the site that will be fenced by driving in at its corners pegs. Between them we stretch the cord and in places where the drawing provides for the location of the pillars, we drive in additional stakes. The distance between the support posts should not exceed 2.5 m.
Foundation
Guided by the markings made, we proceed to dig the foundation trench. Tightly stretched threads allow you to get straight lines when digging. A stone fence is a heavy structure that requires solid foundation, in order to avoid subsidence in the future. The trench digs to a depth of 60 - 70 cm. However, if the height of the fence exceeds 2 m, then with each additional meter of height, the depth of the foundation increases by 10 cm. The width depends on the size of the stone, but on average it does not exceed 40 cm.
Before pouring the foundation at the bottom of the trench, lay out a pillow from sand or rubble. We tamp it well and proceed to strengthen the base with medium-section reinforcement. We lay out a waterproofing layer of roofing material, install the formwork and, finally, proceed to pouring. Depending on the brand of concrete, the foundation will set and acquire the necessary hardness within 15 to 30 days. In cold weather, it takes longer to set. In hot weather, moisture is lost, which is necessary for the hardening processes. Therefore, in the summer, after pouring, you should cover the foundation with a thick tarpaulin and moisten it regularly.
erection of pillars
After the base has hardened, we proceed to the construction of the pillars. To build a stone fence with your own hands, you should choose the right material. With a lack of masonry experience, it is recommended to lay out pillars from hewn stones with smooth edges. Rubble stone is more difficult to lay out, but it allows you to create a unique design of the structure.
We install the formwork for the lower layer and lay the stones in it with the flat side outward, trying to place them as close as possible to each other. thick cement mixture fill in the gaps between the stones. If the mixture gets on the surface of the stone, remove it with a metal brush only after complete drying and without the use of water. Lay out all subsequent rows in the same way.
span masonry
Laying out spans is carried out according to the same technology as the construction of pillars. To give an aesthetic appearance, we add dry dye to the mixture. At the end of the work with a narrow spatula, we perform jointing.
DIY stone fence. Photo
DIY brick fence
The brick fence is not just a reliable protection of your house. Due to their aesthetic qualities, brick buildings look stylish and concise. And the correct geometric shape of the material allows even a beginner to build a brick fence with their own hands.
Since brick is not a cheap pleasure, an important stage of construction is advance paynemt required materials. The number of bricks is calculated based on the following parameters:
- wall thickness (one or two bricks);
- height;
- fence length.
The following stages of work:
- markup
- Foundation device
- Construction of brick pillars
DIY brick fence. Photo instruction
After marking and marking the places of the pillars, we proceed to digging a trench and drilling recesses for vertical supports. The depth of the trench is 40 - 45 cm, taking into account the thickness of the buffer layer of sand or gravel, the depth of the holes is about 1.5 m. The diameter of the hole should exceed the diameter of the section of the metal support by 15 - 20 cm. We install the pillars in the prepared recesses.
We fix the formwork, after which we lay out the sand cushion and reinforce the foundation. We lay out a waterproofing layer that prevents the outflow of moisture from the cement mixture. We fill the resulting base with concrete, not forgetting to fill the holes around the posts with it, tamping the mixture during the pouring process.
After the concrete has completely dried (20 - 30 days), we proceed to the construction of brick pillars by laying vertical supports. The simplest type of masonry is laying out 4 elements around a pole. Lodge bricks
on the cement mixture, dense tamping of which is achieved by lightly tapping on the brick. There are quite a few masonry options: the photo shows some of them. Following step by step instructions making a brick fence presented in the video materials, you can build a beautiful and reliable fence for your home without resorting to the expensive services of professionals.
Do-it-yourself fence from corrugated board
If you need to quickly, reliably and at no extra cost to protect the site from prying eyes, best solution is a corrugated board fence. This material has several advantages:
- railings made of corrugated board are durable and strong;
- are resistant to adverse natural factors;
- have good sound insulation;
- do not require special care;
- successfully fit into any surroundings;
- affordable;
- Installation of a fence from a profiled sheet does not require special training.
Do-it-yourself fence made of corrugated board. Photo
Profiled sheet is an excellent option for fencing garden or suburban area. With the help of the following photo instructions for building a fence in the country, you can easily build such a fence.
Construction stages
- Layout and layout
- Installation of vertical supports
- Horizontal lag device
- Installation of corrugated board
Layout and layout
In order to mount a fence from corrugated board with your own hands, you can do without a preliminary drawing. It is enough to measure the area around the perimeter, determine the place where the gate will be located and make markup, marking with pegs the corners and places of vertical posts, the distance between which should not exceed 3 m. We leave the location of the gate free.
Rack installation
In the places indicated by a swarm of recesses, the depth of which should be equal to 1/3 of the height of the rack. The diameter must exceed the diameter of the section of the rack by 15 - 20 cm. Pipes of both round and square sections can be used. We install the supports strictly vertically, using the level. We fill the bottom of the pit with a layer of sand or gravel and fill it with concrete.
Horizontal lag device
After 3-4 days, after the concrete has completely dried, we weld transverse logs to the vertical posts at the rate of one log for each meter of the height of the fence.
Corrugated fence. step by step photos
Profiled sheet fastening
In conclusion, we fasten sheets of corrugated board to the finished frame, overlapping them, overlapping one another to the depth of one wave. We fasten with self-tapping screws or rivets in increments of 50 cm. Scratches formed during work are painted over with paint from a spray can or coated with a primer to prevent corrosion.
Do-it-yourself slab fence
Supporters of eco-style will like the slab fence, which is not only an original, but also an economical solution when building a fence. croaker- this is the residual cheap lumber formed during the longitudinal sawing of a log. One of its surfaces is smooth, and the other is convex with remnants of the bark. The higher the knotty surface, the lower the cost of the material.
Slab is an excellent material for building a fence for a wooden country house. Photo instructions for building a fence in the country will help to build such a fence even for a person who is far from the intricacies of building skills.
Construction stages
- Layout and layout
- Installation of vertical racks
- Installation of cross bars
- Slab mount
Layout and layout
To build a fence from a slab with your own hands, we stretch a thread along the perimeter of the site and mark the places of vertical supports along it in increments of 2 - 2.5 m.
Installation of supports
We dig holes for vertical supports to the depth of soil freezing (1 - 1.5 m). Both metal pipes and wooden poles can be used as supports. In the latter case, the pillars should be tarred with hot resin or varnished to a height placed in the ground. Using a level, we set the racks strictly vertically and fill it with concrete.
Installation of cross bars
Crossbars are not always needed. The need for them appears only if the slabs of the slab are mounted vertically. When mounted horizontally, they can be fixed directly to vertical supports.
Slab mount
The method of laying the slab depends only on your imagination. Planks can be laid overlapping or with a gap, vertically or horizontally. When overlapping, the planks should overlap each other by less than 2 cm, since drying by 1.5 cm is to be expected. When the planks are vertically arranged, their upper edge can be made even or curly.
Some Helpful Tips
The following recommendations will help extend the life of the slab fence:
- Boards that are too wide should not be used: over time, they will crack, which will degrade the strength and appearance of the fence.
- The finished fence should be covered with paint or varnish: in this way, you can not only give it a more aesthetic appearance, but also create a barrier to decay.
- Install gable roof above the fence: this will emphasize the retro style and protect your fence from moisture.
DIY bamboo fence
There was a desire to highlight your site against the general background of dull fences? Then the fence out bamboo- this is what you need. This exotic plant will give your architectural ensemble a touch of originality. A bamboo fence will look stylish and interesting. How to make such a fence with your own hands? Our photo instruction will help you easily cope with the task.
Stages of work
- Territory marking
- Installation of vertical supports
- Making a wooden frame
- Collecting a bamboo shield on a wooden base
- Attaching bamboo shields to poles
markup
Regardless of what material the fence is built from, work always begins with marking the territory and marking places for vertical supports. To build a bamboo fence with your own hands, wooden poles are used as supports.
Installation of vertical supports
In marked places, recesses are dug up to 1/3 of the height of the pillar. To prevent wood decay processes, we coat or coat bituminous mastic the part of the column that will be in the ground. We install the support strictly vertically, using a level or plumb line for this. We pour a layer of sand or gravel on the bottom of the hole and pour the cement mixture. Leave for 3-4 days until the concrete sets.
Preparing the wood frame
We nail metal embedded parts to the pillars, in which the wooden frame will be held. Details on adjacent posts should be at the same level. To achieve this, we use the board and the level.
We cut the horizontal boards to the desired length and insert them into the embedded parts on the poles. Then proceed to the installation of vertical x boards. We fix them with self-tapping screws to horizontal boards with a step not exceeding 1 m.
Assembling the bamboo shield
We remove the finished wooden frame from the vertical supports and lay it on the goats. We screw in self-tapping screws at the corners of the frame in order to prevent the bamboo trunks from rolling off the base. We begin to lay the bamboo on the frame, tightly fitting the trunks to each other. We attach the bamboo to the base with self-tapping screws. Using a wide board, mark the desired height of the bamboo shield and circular saw cut off all unnecessary. We do the same from the other end. Our bamboo shield is ready.
We collect the fence
We install the finished fence element in the holding parts on the poles and fasten with self-tapping screws. We cover the attachment points with bamboo trunks. To prevent rainwater from entering the trunks, we lay boards along the upper edge of the fence, which we attach to the racks with self-tapping screws. To prolong the life of the fence, we treat bamboo and all wooden parts with an antiseptic primer and cover with waterproof varnish.
Do-it-yourself wicker fence
If you are tired of the dull concrete and iron fences that catch your eye every now and then, protect your site with a light wicker structure that will give the exterior of your house or cottage an airy and pastoral atmosphere. It is not difficult to build a wicker fence in the country with your own hands. All it takes is inspiration and a little patience. So, what do we need for this?
In order to make a wicker fence with your own hands, you should carefully consider the choice of wood. The rods should be thin, obedient, but at the same time strong. The following types of trees are considered the best:
- Alder
- Hazel
- Birch
There are many fence weaving methods. From the schemes presented here, you can choose the one you like best.
The first step in building a wicker fence is to create basics. To do this, wooden or metal racks of the desired height are driven into the ground at a distance of 50 - 60 cm from each other and to a depth of 40 - 45 cm. In this case, the thickness of the racks directly depends on the thickness of the rods.
Before starting work, the weaving material must be softened in a steam or salt bath. From this, the rods will become more pliable. Then we proceed directly to weaving. We fasten the twig with wire to the first rack and begin to stagger it between the other posts. In order to avoid decay processes, the wattle fence should not fit snugly to the ground: we leave a gap of 5 - 10 cm.
Wicker board fence
A separate type of wicker fence is a wicker fence made of boards. Such a fence looks solid and impressive and can be used not only for summer cottages, but also for home.
For the construction of such a fence, only metal vertical posts are used, which, in without fail are concreted, since the pressure of the boards on them is great. Planed boards are used, which are attached to the racks with self-tapping screws. In conclusion, the wood is covered with a layer of protective mastic and painted.
Norms and rules for installing fences
When erecting fences and fences, you should be guided not only by your own taste and capabilities, but also by generally accepted norms and rules:
- The choice of material for the fence facing the main highway should be agreed with local authorities: it must comply with the general architectural plan and not be traumatic.
- Height such a fence should not exceed 2.2 m.
- If the fence is located at a distance of less than 1.5 m from a section of a public street, then Gates must open inward so as not to impede movement.
Rules for installing fences between neighboring plots:
- Maximum allowable height- 2.2 m.
- At the same time, the height deaf fencing should not exceed 0.75 m, and the rest of the fence should be mesh or lattice. Otherwise, a written agreement neighbors.
- Without the consent of the neighbors, it is possible to install a blind barrier up to 2.2 m high from light-transmitting materials.
- Thickness fencing increases only at the expense of your site.
- The construction of a blind fence requires installation drainage system, to avoid flooding the neighboring area.
- Permissible creation hedge, the height of which should not exceed 1.5 m.
If you decide to build a fence in the country with your own hands, you should take into account the following rules for planning fences:
- the height of the fence separating the site from the street can reach 2 m;
- by decision of the meeting of the garden partnership, the fence can be made of deaf materials;
- fences between neighboring areas should not exceed 1.5 m and should be light-transmitting.
Fire regulations
Fire safety standards are regulated by SNiP Russian Federation. According to the rules fire safety, the minimum distances between buildings depend on the material from which they are made:
- For concrete and stone structures, this distance is 6 m.
- If concrete, masonry or iron structures contain wooden details, then the minimum distance increases to 8 m.
- For wooden structures this distance is 15 m.
It is not difficult to come up with a fence design, it is more difficult to realize the idea of \u200b\u200bhow to do exactly what you want. But when there is a desire to also make money on it, then you need to evaluate the attractiveness from the very beginning. consumable. After all, the overall design is often assembled from everything that is idle or sold for a penny.
From improvised materials
Now, it is on the territory of the Russian Federation and the CIS countries, that's what you can choose from:
- Pallets;
- Used slate;
- Plastic (various containers);
- production grid;
- Cutting from a sawmill (the most budgetary rural option);
- Shrub branches (gathered with their own hands, if there is one near the construction site);
- (for a fence or a barn, there is no budget option);
- Dismantled wooden barrels(a rare case, but sometimes in production workshops they are forced to sell already broken barrels of strong wood by self-delivery);
- Scrap metal (if you have transport, you can visit retail outlets and collect poles, crossbars and even some handmade decor by weight);
- Professional sheet. The most inexpensive;
- Concrete, cement and decorative.
How to do cheap fence from all this? Let's analyze in detail.
Designer novelties
Beautiful photos with original ideas: 
Simple design layout. In the photo - a homemade picket fence from wire, hazel, willow. You don’t even need to nail anything on a simple fence made of branches with your own hands, it’s enough to make turns between the supporting parts, and a low fence will be ready very soon. It is a pity that such constructions do not last very long because of strong winds and precipitation.
The garden option decorative fence in a private house, assembled on their own. And the more paint residues are used in this version, the brighter the garden itself will look. Boards can also be selected from pallets, creating a simple decoration element. 
Worth noticing! Such a garden fence is also an impromptu bird feeder and drinker. Very original and inexpensive.
Brick, cement and glass. American novelty. The materials are not cheap and improvised, but it looks great. Unfortunately, such a design, most likely, will not stand for a very long time due to the rapid interest. In total there is someone who cannot repeat this. 
Copper or other metal at work. Of course, an element for an amateur. And yes, there is a lot of welding. But if you make, for example, from iron beds of past eras, then it will be original, free and forever. 
Plastic. Even greenhouses have been made from containers for a long time. And don't forget about fences. It is desirable, of course, to make small pieces of even material from empty containers, with which buildings or fences are then sheathed. But the above method is also suitable, just prepare a strong frame in advance. 
Europallet. Suitable everywhere: firewood, building a barn and a fence. Interestingly, the technology for creating the pallets themselves has a drying stage. It turns out that pallets from the warehouse are ideal construction material for an inexpensive fence. And often unloading pallets are sold simply by weight. On small-sized boards, there should be no knots and defects. 
It is not necessary to dismantle pallets for the construction of the fence. It is best to do as in the photo above - expose and fix each of them in turn.
Branches, tree and slab
Quite inexpensive, an example in the photo: 
You can’t imagine it easier - they insert or drive in something for support, and then weave the way the soul desires. Everything that lies under your feet goes to work. Even dry, crooked and heavy oak branches can be the end of the composition.
Below is a picture of a fence. From a thin branch such a design, of course, does not differ in strength. But you can fix a ready-made home-made fence with a mesh over the entire area. 
Like this ( next photo) much stronger, more economic and more beautiful. Livestock, pests from the forest or abandoned dogs will not violate your territorial space. Moreover, the grid can be installed not the smallest, and it is enough for one meter from the ground. Above, such protection is no longer needed.
Mesh combined with a wooden frame performed according to right technology(a tree under a cone, columns are processed by bitumen). Modest, not very expensive and reliable. You should not sin on a tree, because a fence made of absolutely any material will not last forever. And even monolithic structures are destroyed by atmospheric changes.
carved grace. This is a small work of art. Although earlier, when most of the population of our country lived in private lands, carved elements were in every yard. It had several meanings: prosperity, accuracy, skill and respect for traditions. 
Below - pallet garden fence treated with protective compounds. 
fence board blends very nicely with concrete base and pole.
By the way, it is the “fence board” that comes in several varieties (grade 1-3). If there is a lot of crooked wood at the sawmill, then grade 3 fence boards will accumulate in cubic meters. Externally, of course, there are differences, but this is the same wood that is used in construction. There is more trouble with her, but for such a low price she is forgiven. And if grade 1 costs from 3 thousand per 1 cube, grade 3 will cost 1.5-1.8.
It is also interesting that cheap lumber is not bought quickly, so it is easy to find a dry inexpensive fence board in warehouses or squares.
Original wood processing
By Japanese technology now you can burn fence boards giving it a brown tint. Similar processing for natural material only needed once. Moreover, a thin layer of burnt wood is resistant to moisture, and natural processing can only be replaced by expensive paint, the service life of which leaves much to be desired. Burn several dozen boards with oxygen or blowtorch comfortable, practical and original.
Slate, profiled sheet, concrete and mesh
If you take a new slate into work, then it would be better to order it flat version calculated for 1 span. Such material is easy to replace in case of breakage, and it looks discreet, solid, more solid. 
Used slate more often with a wave. It is rarely used on the front part, except for visors. However, the back side of the site, closed from the eyes of everyone and everything, also needs to be fenced. That's where they find use for the old slate from the grandfather's house or barn.
Interesting fact! Slate, released in the 70-80s of the 20th century, is very fragile, but durable. If no cracks are made during transportation and installation, then it will stand in the fence for more than one decade.
Classical rules for working with your own hands on a profiled sheet and a metal frame. As shown in the figure, for a high fence (above 2 meters), it is more correct to make 3 logs. Well, the span is not more than 2.5 meters. 
Patterned grids. Long and hard work. It must be carried out according to the project or pattern. Of course, you will have to work hard, but you can sell such works. Or get hired for design, if there is interest in your ideas. 
Cheap, beautiful and original. Everything can be used in decorative elements: from forks to car hubs. And it doesn’t matter how it all will look exactly in the overall picture, because it’s impossible to ugly assemble different elements made of iron or other material into one design. 
Profiled sheet or corrugated board wooden frame . An option for those who do not know the welding craft. It is better to make the frame itself more stable, although sheets arranged horizontally will give the necessary rigidity. It is desirable to treat wood with protective agents based on drying oil.
Concrete or brick fences. Lots of shades here. decorative elements and, consequently, costs. It is more profitable to make only the base from stone, placing it in the center of each span wood, forging, decking or even factory plastic.
Estimated cost
Let's take a look at the example of a standard 6 acres of a summer cottage:
| Type of fence | materials | Number of materials | Cost per unit, rub. | Amounts, rub. |
| Wooden fence with concrete base | Cement (concrete); | 11 cubic meters; | 3 thousand; | 33 thousand |
| pillars (logs); | From 50 pieces; | 450; | 22 thousand | |
| logs (beam); | 40 pieces; | 150; | 6 thousand | |
| fence board (grade 2-3). | 200-250 pieces. | 60. | 15 thousand | |
| Result: 76 thousand for building materials. | ||||
| Mesh with concrete base | Concrete; | 11 cubic meters; | 3 thousand; | 33 thousand |
| Pipes for the frame; | 89X40; | 1500; | 78 thousand | |
| Logs made of wood; | 50 pieces. 200-250 pieces; |
108; | 3.7 thousand | |
| Net. | 170 square meters. | 60. | 9.4 thousand | |
| Bottom line: material without delivery 124 thousand. | ||||
These are prices for the central region. And if you call to count the fences of the above materials on a turnkey basis, then you need to add up to 50 thousand for work and delivery.
Results
Fences made of stone, brick and a decorative component cost twice as much as a fence made of mesh or wood.
It is easy to guess that it is most profitable to do what you have planned with your own hands, using the same euro pallet or used pallet. After all, at quality installation they look much more original. The price of the work is cheap, the material itself can be ordered from 100 rubles apiece. 1 element is a whole meter of an almost assembled fence. Consider for yourself what is better for a conventional fence.
Video instruction
Ivan Galkin tells how to make an inexpensive fence.
Our portal has repeatedly told how to build in the country from a wide variety of materials. In articles about the fence from not edged board and the construction of a variant of the fence from a profiled sheet, we revealed and explained, from
Of whatmake a cheap fence to the cottage with their own hands
Then, placing them along the line, he hammered them with a sledgehammer 1 meter into the ground, at a distance of no more than 2 meters from each other.
After that, I painted the above-ground part and connected all the columns with twine in 4 lines.
WAAD
At the upper ends of the posts, I made twists of thick copper wire for 2 turns. This is necessary so that the twine does not fly off. He pulled the twine, wrapping it once around the column, going sequentially - from the bottom up. This provides good tension. If you start pulling the twine from top to bottom, then when you pull the bottom lines, the top ones will weaken.
Having pulled the twine, Nikolai “threw” the cable, and the cable did not wrap around the posts, but let it tangentially (this should compensate for the lengthening / shortening of the length of the cable in cold weather), screwing it with a wire clamp-twisting. Moreover, the cable does not go into tightness, but with not much sagging, 1 cm on each span, and then it is already stretched by twisting it with twine.
Having received the basis WAAD simply threw the net over the top of the structure, as if hanging a sheet on a line to dry, and then grabbed the bottom with twine.
But the easiest way to make tacks is from plastic ties, without tightening them to the end, providing a free play of 1-1.5 cm.
Important: we grab the grid only at the bottom, and do not fasten it to the posts. Otherwise, in places of "tacks" it will be torn by the wind, up to the formation of holes.
Not all cheap types of fences can boast of strength and durability. But here, as a result, a light, fairly opaque extra-budgetary fence was obtained, which has a low windage, because. mesh is breathable. In terms of reliability, it even surpasses other cheap fences without a foundation. A test with strong winds showed that the fence does not fall down (it only bends by 2-3 cm, and due to the elasticity of the posts, it immediately returns to its original position). The grid practically does not fade in the sun, does not tear, does not pop, it just sways a little.
There is virtually no snow load. The fence also performs a security function. It is impossible to climb over it - the columns are springy. Do not break the mesh, just cut with a knife. It is also impossible to climb under the fence. The lower cable can only be raised by 20-30 cm. Setting fire to it by throwing a cigarette butt will not work either.
How to make an inexpensive fence around the house.
WAAD
I myself did not expect that the fence would turn out so strong, and the installation would be so easy and fast even for one person. The fence is green, it merges with nature and does not look like an alien element on the site, and by raising the lower edge, you can put the mower under the canvas and calmly mow the grass.
If repairs are needed (a hole has appeared in the fence canvas, or after a while it has faded a little, etc.), there is no need to change the entire fence material. We buy the cheapest roll of "facade" with a density of 35 g / sq. m, we transfer it to the old one, tie it up, and the fence is as good as new. The intake-reinforcing column itself does not stick out of the ground by the forces of frost heaving, and if necessary, it can be corrected with a “light movement of the hand”.
The fence canvas repeats the relief of the site, flowing around all the irregularities, and allows air to pass through the cells without the formation of stagnant zones, which is important for plant growth.
Also, such a fence is optimally suited as a temporary - intermediate fence, before the construction of a capital fence during the construction of a house, it is also an excellent budget fence from neighbors.
Despite the ease of installation, before making such a budget fence for a summer residence, you should pay attention to a number of nuances and recommendations developed during its operation. In order for the outer column to provide support when tensioned, and not to bend (because it bears the maximum load), Nikolai scored an additional spacer column at an angle of about 45 degrees.
And after watching our video, you can see the fence from the facade mesh “live” and get acquainted with other secrets of country life from WAAD.
Often, a fence for a summer cottage is erected temporarily, for the subsequent construction of a more solid structure. And often there is simply not enough money for a solid fence, so we are looking for the cheapest fence for a summer residence as an option.
To make the fence cost quite inexpensively, we will build it with our own hands. Before installing the type of fence you have chosen, be sure to take an interest in the technology of its installation and consult with a specialist.
Cheap fence for giving, options
The price of the fence is affected by the size of the structure and the material from which it will be made. Accordingly, a high fence is more expensive than a low one, and a solid fence is more expensive than a transparent one. A structure that is attached to dug-in or concreted pillars will turn out to be cheaper than a fence mounted on a strip foundation.
Wooden picket fence - the most budget option
From such an inexpensive material, you can make a completely beautiful and original fence for a summer residence. An example of this is a photo of finished fences.
This is a very popular fence material. The picket fence is a plank of wood, 18 to 22 mm thick and 7 to 14 cm wide.
The height of the picket fence can be from 1.2 to 4 meters. To fasten this material, horizontal girders are used, fixed on oak, metal or concrete posts.
The approximate price of a picket fence is 700 rubles/sq.m. The final cost of the fence largely depends on the chosen installation option. For example, installing a picket fence in a checkerboard pattern or a herringbone pattern increases the price of the structure by 15-20%. Strip foundation instead of simply driving the posts into the ground, it adds 20-25% to the cost.
Fences made of thin wicker boards and a blockhouse are more expensive (from 1000 rubles / sq.m). A fence made of wicker boards attracts attention with an original look, and a blockhouse fence wins the hearts of summer residents with the quality factor of a wooden frame.
The type of fence "Ranch" came to us from the Wild West. For its construction, wide horizontal boards or beams are used, which are attached to low wooden poles. The disadvantage of such a fence is that it does not protect the site from the entry of unauthorized persons and even small animals. It is quite understandable, since this fence was created for a vast pasture area. But installing it does not take much time. And in terms of the cost of materials and work, such a fence is comparable to the price of a picket fence.
Wattle fence for a suburban area
Such a fence made of hazel or willow branches is liked by fans of the rustic style. It is original, strong enough and durable. With a strong desire, the technique of weaving branches can be mastered with your own hands in a matter of hours. If you have no time to engage in manual creativity, then you will have to pay from 500 rubles per 1 square meter for the manufacture and installation of wattle.
Anyone who is interested in building a cheap fence for a summer residence, we advise you to pay attention to an unedged board. Having freed it from the bark, sanded and varnished, you can get a beautiful fence for a summer cottage at the lowest price (about 550 rubles / sq.m.).
About durability wooden fences… The service life of autoclaved wood is extended up to 30 years. The service life of an ordinary, painted board does not exceed 15 years.
Fence for giving from a chain-link grid
The cheapest fence can be built from a chain-link mesh. It is issued in different options height (1.0-3.0 meters), length 10-18 meters and cell size 20-100 mm. To protect the wire from corrosion, galvanizing and polymer coating are used.
You can put up such a fence by rolling the mesh and fixing it to metal or concrete pillars. The second option is the manufacture of mesh sections, that is, frames from corners or pipes and their installation on poles.
The service life of mesh fences reaches 30 years. Such fences do not obscure the site and at the same time are reliable, as they create a serious barrier to uninvited guests.
The average price of 1 square meter of a turnkey chain-link fence is 180-240 rubles.
Fence for giving from eurostudent
The popularity of wooden picket fences prompted stamped metal manufacturers to create something similar. The result is a very aesthetic and durable material.
In terms of service life, wood cannot be compared with it. In addition, the fence made of eurostudent does not require periodic painting and antiseptics. The protective polymer film, which is used to cover galvanized steel, retains its color and integrity for 25-30 years.
Installation of a fence made of eurostudent, taking into account the price of materials and work, is from 800 rubles per 1 sq.m.
Country fence made of corrugated board
Today it is the leader of country fence construction. This is a dumb fence. His affordable price allows any summer resident to use it to protect their site. Through such a fence not a single living soul will penetrate. Installation of a fence from a professional flooring is simple, and therefore inexpensive. To this can be added huge selection colors and texture pattern of the profiled sheet.
- Use corrugated board with a thickness of 0.5 mm. It is not much more expensive than 0.4 mm thick flooring, but it will not be covered with dents and will not lose its attractiveness.
- The pitch of the supports should be no more than 2-2.5 meters, ideally 1.5 meters. And if we take the distance between the supports at 3 m, then under the influence of wind loads, the fence canvas will begin to bend and may lose its original appearance.
- Dig in the support pipes to a depth of at least 1.5 meters and be sure to concrete them.
- The fence posts must be made of a pipe 60-80 mm, with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm.
- Take corrugated board with a double-sided, polymer coating, since galvanized flooring (without painting), after two years, becomes stained, loses its luster and may begin to corrode.
Fence for giving from slate
For the installation of such a deaf fence, both flat and wavy asbestos-cement slate are used. The first is stronger because it has a greater thickness.
The installation of a large format flat slate (1.5 x 3 meters) is faster than the installation of a smaller wavy one (1.75 x 1.125 m). They put the slate on steel profile runs, welded or bolted to metal posts.
The slate fence has high strength, as well as heat and frost resistance. It is more durable than wood and is not afraid of corrosion like metal. However, this material has a significant drawback - it is fragile and nondescript in appearance. And if nothing can be done about the first minus, then the second can be easily corrected - paint the slate.
Bottom line: the cheapest fence for a summer residence is a chain-link fence (200 rubles / sq.m.), the second place in price is fences made of welded mesh, wooden picket fence and unedged boards (450-600 rubles / sq.m.) , we give the third place in our rating to fences made of corrugated board, slate, blockhouse and edged boards (700-1000 rubles / sq.m.).
fence posts
During the construction of the fence, much attention is paid to the installation of pillars - the supporting part of the fence. And the more reliably they are installed, the stronger the fence will be, which means it will last longer.
Installation of fence posts
During construction, 3 methods of installing support pillars are used.
- Direct driving into the ground
- Partial concreting. It is carried out in two ways: pouring a concrete collar, or filling a well below the soil freezing line.
- Full concrete pouring of the underground part of the rack, including the strip foundation
Which method to choose depends on the quality of the soil on the site, its saturation with moisture and the degree of freezing. Also, the choice of installation option is influenced by vertical and lateral loads created by the weight of the structure and its windage. If you decide to install a solid fence, then it must withstand the wind well, the load from which often exceeds the weight of the fence.
Direct driving of posts into the ground speeds up and reduces the cost of building a fence, but it also has many disadvantages.
- If the soil is soft or loose, then the rack may loosen over time under the influence of the wind, since the fences have a large windage (if they are made of corrugated board, polycarbonate, boards).
- If the height of the pole is planned to be higher than 2 meters, even from a chain-link mesh, then this method of installing the poles will also not work - any strong wind will also shake the structure.
- If your site has clayey moist soil that swells at low temperatures, then the supports will crawl out of the soil by 10 centimeters already in the first winter.
That is, fence posts simply driven into the ground cannot carry a large mass load. Such an installation is suitable only for low fences with low windage. Or if there is rocky hard ground on the site.
concreting a little more complicated and costly than the first method of attaching fence supports. And yes, it will take more time. Only the hardening of concrete will take 3 weeks. But this method is more reliable, since concrete pillars will last 30-50 years without tilting. Moreover, strengthening concrete mix suitable for all types of fences, including heavy ones.
Fence brick posts
A brick support without a reliable connection with the foundation, even despite its solid weight, will not last long. A strong wind load, acting on solid sections of the fence, inevitably leads to the overturning of a column that is not fixed in the foundation. In addition, do not forget about seasonal ground movements. Falling and rising a couple of centimeters up and down during the year, the foundation must work in conjunction with the posts and sections of the fence.
The optimal design of the foundation with brick pillars, designed for a corrugated fence, is clearly illustrated by the diagram in the photo.
You can see that a steel rod made of a square pipe or a reinforcing cage is installed in the brick posts. Embedded plates are welded to it. Steel purlins are attached to them under a profiled sheet or picket fence.
Foundation type - strip rubble concrete or concrete. A trench is dug under it, and pits with a diameter of 15-20 cm are drilled at the places where the pillars are installed. First, concrete is poured into wells with pillar racks installed in them. After that, layer-by-layer concreting of the trench begins.
The main parameters of the foundation (laying depth, width, degree of reinforcement) and the height of the fence are determined by calculating the strength and stability.
For the installation of brick pillars for the fence, we used the following dimensions
- trench depth - 20-30 cm;
- the depth of the well for the installation of metal racks of brick pillars, counting from the surface of the earth - 90-100 cm;
- the height of the grillage (the upper part of the foundation, located above the surface of the earth) - 40-60 cm;
- foundation width - 20-35 cm;
- the distance between the pillars is from 2.5 to 3 meters;
- the height of the pillars is from 150 to 180 cm (the cross section of the masonry is 38x38 cm).
In wet soils, it is necessary to drill holes for racks below the freezing depth so that frost heaving forces do not deform the fence.
In weak and unstable soils, in the upper part of the foundation, before concreting it, it is advisable to lay a reinforcing cage of 4-6 rods with a diameter of 14-18 mm. It will preserve the integrity of the foundation and perceive the loads that occur in concrete during subsidence of the soil.
The laying of brick pillars begins no earlier than 2-3 weeks after concreting. Having laid waterproofing under the posts, you can get to work.
Perfectly even seams - a guarantee of excellent appearance brick pillars. Experienced masons use pieces of a square bar to simplify the work, which serves as a seam template.
In the photo there is a brick support post with a section of 38 x 38 cm. Two reinforcing bars are installed inside for reinforcement. The space between them and the masonry is filled with fine-grained concrete or mortar.
For fences two or more meters high, the size of the column section is increased to 51 x 63 cm or 64 x 77 cm. Accordingly, the dimensions of the reinforcing frame increase.
metal fence posts
Steel supports are well suited for fences made of corrugated board, wood, plastic, metal mesh, welded and forged fences. These are one of the most affordable and durable solutions for installing any fence.
Iron poles are different types: made of round and profile pipes, screw. They also differ in height, metal thickness and diameter. It is possible to make such supports for the fence from new materials, as well as from used ones.
The diameter of a column from an ordinary pipe is usually 57, 76, 89 mm. The wall thickness can be any, but the thicker, the longer its service life.
For difficult soils, screw metal piles are used. At the bottom they have a cutting blade that allows you to insert the pipe into the soil quickly, without the use of complex equipment. With the help of this blade, the pipe is firmly held in the ground.
Distance between fence posts
When choosing metal poles, take into account our experience:
- pr fence height 2-2.5 meters, take the section profile pipe 60 x 40 mm, products sized 40 x 40 mm are suitable for 1.5 hedges,
- the optimal diameter of the round pipe is 57 mm,
- the maximum size of the corners of the channels installed one by one, take equal to 90 and 160 mm, respectively,
- the interval between the posts should be within 2-3 meters. A smaller distance is inexpedient from the point of view of economy, but a larger one sharply reduces the reliability of the structure.
Our calculation of the pitch of the pillars with a section length of 13.4 meters and a fence height of 1.5 meters
- Divide this distance into 4 sections, you get a length of 3.23 meters. With such an interval, the fence can be built from korpich or chain-link mesh on metal poles. It is undesirable to install a profiled sheet or other solid material, as the racks will be loosened by the wind.
- If divided into 5 sections, you get a step of 2.56 meters. This interval is suitable for most designs.
- A breakdown into 6 spans will give a distance between the pillars of 2.12 meters. You will get a reliable structure, but the price of the fence will increase. Although in this case you can save money if you take poles with a smaller section.
The optimal distance between the posts of a solid fence 2 meters high is 2.5 meters. This perfect option in terms of price / quality ratio when it comes to popular fences made of corrugated board on metal supports.
Often, among the questions about country fences, a fence between cottages is considered. Neighbors in the plots find out what kind of fence they can fence off so that it does not contradict the rules. How high can a fence be placed and what should it be made of. Best Option in this case, the use of mesh for fencing. Or make a decorative living fence of climbing plants. The main thing is not to forget that there should not be a deep shadow from the fence, which naturally will not please the neighbors in the country, since horticultural crops will grow poorly in this place.
How to build a fence in the country with your own hands? Are there any rules governing construction? What materials can be used? What are the poles made of? In this article we will try to find answers.
Country cottage area. So far, no fence.
Restrictions
Having moved away from the noisy city, most summer residents experience a quite understandable desire for solitude. Alas, the world is not perfect: not everyone and not always lucky enough with their neighbors to share their leisure time with them.
However, there are certain regulatory requirements limiting the construction of fences for summer cottages.
- According to SNiP 30-02-97, fences must be mesh or lattice. The instruction is related to the need to minimize the shading of neighboring areas.
Important: by decision of the general meeting of the garden partnership, it is allowed to build a blind fence from the side of streets and driveways.
- In addition, the height and structure of the fences is usually prescribed in the charter of the ST. A typical fence between sites can reach a height of 1.5 meters with a light transparency of at least 50%; the fence on the side of the passage has a height of no more than 2 meters.
Let's move on to specific solutions.
Translucent structures
First, let's pay attention to the fences that will not obscure the neighboring beds and windows, creating all the conditions for a nice communal squabble.
Fence
The classic material has only one advantage: its price is lower than that of most competing ones.
More disadvantages:
- Service life rarely exceeds 5-7 years.
- Aesthetics of a protection — at the level of a plinth. A very unkempt plinth.
- Repair is required, as a rule, already from the first year of construction.
- It is quite possible to overcome an obstacle from a picket fence not only to an attacker, but also to a neighbor's chicken.
The method of construction is extremely simple: poles burned from below or smeared with bituminous mastic are dug into the ground and connected by crossbars, on which planks are stuffed.
chain link
With greater translucency, a chain-link fence is much more durable and can be overcome with much more difficulty.
How is it built?
- With a constant step of 2-2.5 meters, holes 0.7-1.2 meters deep are torn off or drilled. The exact value depends on the type of soil: the denser it is, the less deepening you can do without sacrificing strength.
- Posts are placed in the holes. As a rule, this is a round pipe with a diameter of 32 - 50 mm.
Please note: galvanized steel is more durable than black steel, but costs 1.5 times more.
Compromise between durability and low cost - processing black steel pipe phosphating rust converter with subsequent painting.
- The pillars are set on a plumb line, after which the pits are covered with rubble and compacted.
- Crushed stone is filled with liquid sand-cement mortar prepared in a ratio of 1:4.
- The chain-link (preferably again galvanized) is attracted to the posts with wire clamps.
The mesh stretched in this way will hold quite freely.
Additional structural rigidity can be given in two ways:
- Having connected the pillars with crossbars from a professional pipe measuring from 20x40 mm. The chain-link is additionally attracted to the jumpers.
- Stretched between the pillars from above and below steel wire 3-4 mm in diameter. It is threaded directly through the mesh cells and holes drilled in the posts; turnbuckles are used to tension the wire in straight sections.
Polycarbonate
Polycarbonate attracts with its partial transparency: light passes through it, but it hides the details safely. Thus, with a two-meter height of the fence, it is possible to provide some privacy without violating regulatory requirements.
We are already familiar with the method of constructing the frame: they become pillars from a steel pipe (in this case, a profile). Since the wind load on the fence will be noticeably higher than in the case of a chain-link, it is better to prefer poles with a cross section of at least 60x60 and deepen them by at least a meter.
As a log (horizontal jumpers), a professional pipe measuring 20x40 and above is used. It can be attached to poles both by welding and by bolts; it is desirable that the step between the lags does not exceed 60 cm. Polycarbonate is attracted to them by metal screws with rubber washers; at the same time, the screws are in no case tightened to the stop: the material is rather fragile.
How much will this solution cost? Here are the current prices for cellular polycarbonate, and at the same time specific gravity material.
| Thickness, mm | Color | Weight, kg/m3 | Cost per square meter |
| 3,0 | transparent | 0,45 | 107 |
| 3,5 | transparent | 0,5 | 115 |
| 4 | transparent | 0,7 | 143 |
| color | 155 | ||
| 6 | transparent | 1,05 | 226 |
| color | 246 | ||
| 8 | transparent | 1,3 | 290 |
| color | 306 |
The construction of this type of fence has one subtlety. To fix polycarbonate, you will need an electric screwdriver: screwing even one metal screw with a screwdriver is a non-trivial task, let alone several hundred. In areas without electricity, the solution will be to buy or rent a diesel generator for summer cottages: it will allow you to use power tools and welding without restrictions.
Opaque fences
We also mention a couple of solutions for those cases when the fence can be made completely impenetrable to prying eyes.
Concrete eurofence
Despite the rather heavy material, this name often hides very attractive designs in terms of aesthetics. The fence is a type-setting structure of pillars and typesetting sections installed between them.
The material of the fence is reinforced concrete.
How is the Eurofence installed?
- The poles are installed similarly to the poles for a chain-link fence - the pits are compacted with crushed stone and filled with a liquid solution.
Important: both verticality and accuracy of distances are especially important in this case.
Missing by five centimeters, we simply cannot install the sections.
- Before the solution sets, the sections are lowered into the grooves of the posts. For greater strength, they can be fixed with a small amount of the same solution. The weight of the sections - 40 - 60 kg allows you to perform the work of installing them in pairs physically healthy people without the use of technology.
Nuance: if we are building a fence in a country house located on slope, the slope is compensated either by deepening one edge of the lower section, or by pouring a strip foundation.
profiled sheet
A simple replacement of polycarbonate in the construction described above with a profiled steel sheet will also make it completely opaque. The material has sufficient rigidity (among other things, it is often sheathed with change houses for workers, country houses from block containers and trade kiosks) and a service life of 30 years or more; in addition, thanks to the polymer coating, the profiled sheet is not afraid of corrosion.
There are, in general, few subtleties in construction.
- Two logs - at the bottom and at the top - is enough. And in this case, when flying between the pillars of 2 meters, a 20x40 professional pipe is sufficient.
- Adjacent sheets overlap for one full wave.
- Self-tapping screws with press washers are screwed into each groove between the waves. Otherwise, in windy weather, the fence will delight you with an enchanting concert: the sheet will hit the log.
- The upper lag is attached 5-8 cm below the top edge of the sheet. In this case, its sharp edge will prevent an uninvited guest from overcoming the barrier. (See also the article.)
Conclusion
In this article, we have mentioned only a few solutions from an almost endless list. The video in this article will offer the reader additional information. Good luck!
