When cutting a log house, a technological sequence must be followed, which is an important process for the quality construction of a log house. Particular attention should be paid to the strong fastening of the rafters to the frame, on which the reliability and service life of the roof will depend.
The main tools for work are:
- roulette;
- saw;
- square;
- pencil;
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- level.
Marking the placement of rafters during their installation
Marking the fastening of boards to the frame must begin from the gables, with the elements being laid tightly to the gables. But first, a supporting element - a tooth - must be cut out in the board. In the upper crown of the log house, repeating the size of the tooth, a groove is cut out. It should also be noted that it is impossible to produce without a tooth and groove. When positioned from above, the ends of the elements must be laid 5 cm lower, taking into account the height of the pediment.
When the design of a log house roof includes a ridge element made of timber or logs, marking the installation, the rafters need to be nailed to them. When all elements (braces, sheathing) are installed, the temporary fastening in the form of nails is removed.
This is required so that all elements do not freeze during the process.
Typically, rafters are installed in increments of 60 cm or more.
The step distance will depend on the building project and its location. The rafters are installed on both sides of the pediment, resulting in a tent shape. In places where the rafters come into contact with the gables, there should be a gap of at least 5 cm, which is subsequently filled with insulating material.
Installation of hanging rafters: features
In this case, only the walls serve as support, which can lead to a horizontal thrust load throughout the entire structure (log house). To alleviate these loads, before installing and connecting the rafters to the wall base (log house), it is important to use a tie, which is made from a bar or board, thanks to which the counter elements are connected while being rigid in the upper part. The result is a non-thrust triangular frame, which is installed on the crowns of the log house.
There is a similar method when floor beams are used. Such elements are installed with the rafters in the same plane and perpendicular to the wall base. A similar method is used when installing attic buildings.
It is recommended to use the connection of the structure with beams, regardless of the weight of the roof, if the walls of the log house are sufficiently strong and stable. This is due to the fact that the pressure on the walls of the log structure itself will be point-like, and not uniform, as when using a Mauerlat.
With this method, beams for the floor structure must be selected with dimensions of 50x150 mm. When arranging a roof overhang, wooden blocks are taken of a size that allows for a protrusion of at least 55 cm. The rafter elements with this method should protrude beyond the base of the wall and be attached to the edge of the block.
Mauerlat attachment technology
The Mauerlat is one of the outermost elements of a log house roof. It bears pressure from the large weight of the entire roof, which should be equally distributed among the load-bearing elements. It is made with rafter elements, which provide this pressure. Mauerlat can be made from solid logs laid around the perimeter, or in meter-long pieces that are placed directly under the rafter elements.
For the manufacture of Mauerlat, only logs, beams and boards with minimum dimensions of 100x100 mm, 100x150 mm and 150x150 mm are used. If logs are used, then one of the sides is cut for maximum contact with the top crown of the log house. The Mauerlat can be secured using several methods.
When the log house is made of logs or timber, the mauerlat is mounted along the top row and installed on the logs. You can pin:
- using wooden or steel dowels;
- steel staples;
- metal corner;
- using galvanized wire with a minimum diameter of 4 mm.
How the rafters are attached to the Mauerlat
Fastening the rafters is a crucial moment in the roof installation process. The condition of the roof under the influence of gusts of wind, snow cover, and sudden temperature changes will depend on the method of fastening the rafter elements with the Mauerlat. All wooden elements are capable of absorbing moisture and at the same time expanding, and under the influence of rising temperatures, contracting. Given the characteristics of wooden structures, it is not recommended to arrange all connections with rigid fastening, as this leads to breaks and displacements. The occurrence of expansion forces affecting the walls of the log house due to careless installation of structures can also pose a danger. To prevent this from happening, you need to have an idea of how to install rafters on a log house.
Rafters with a Mauerlat can be secured using the following methods:
- hard;
- sliding.
The type of interface is used taking into account the shape of the roof and the type of rafters - layered or hanging.
Using a rigid mount
When installing rafters on beams using the rigid fastening method, it is important to adhere to certain requirements and eliminate bending, twisting, turns and shifts between elements.
These requirements can be achieved:
- secured with a corner with a hemmed block for support;
- making a cut on the rafter element and fastening this connection with nails and staples.
Using a corner with hemmed support bars, the rafters are placed on the mauerlat. The element itself must have a rigid stop along the load line due to a hemmed beam about 1 m long. It is also fixed on the sides with a metal corner to avoid shifting.
The second installation method is most applicable. With this option, fixation with nails is carried out from the side, at an angle, they are crossed inside the Mauerlat, and a third nail must be driven vertically. This results in a rather rigid assembly when fastening.
In both options, the connections are secured by another fastening of the elements to the wall, using wire or anchors.
At the same roof slope angle, the rafters are prepared using a template, that is, the same size.
Application of sliding joint
A sliding connection is created by fastening with the ability to move one element. In this situation, such an element will be the rafters to the mauerlat. You can attach the rafters to the mauerlat with the ability to move using the following methods:
The method of sawing down and installing the rafter element and sawing down the Mauerlat:
- making a connection using 2 nails on the sides diagonally so that they intersect;
- making the connection with one nail, which is hammered in the upper part through all the rafters and into the mauerlat;
- the nails are replaced with a plate with holes;
- using staples, fasten the rafters and the mauerlat;
- the rafters protrude beyond the wall and are secured only with plates.
The connection is made using special fasteners - slides.
Each method allows the rafter elements to move relative to each other.
The type of wood - the main building material - plays an important role, since the service life of a wooden house depends on it and the quality of the wood. Among deciduous trees, preference is given to oak, ash, beech, birch and aspen. Among coniferous species, fir and cedar are becoming increasingly common, and in Ukraine pine, spruce and larch.
Which one is better: spruce pine or larch? The latter stands out especially in this row, since it differs from others in its durability and beauty of texture. It is practically not affected by moisture, and in the old days it was often used to make supports for wooden bridges. But the material is expensive and not everyone can afford it. Therefore, most developers choose spruce or pine. Pine is the most popular wood in Ukraine. Anyone will appreciate its strength, straight trunks, absence of hollows and resinousness - resistance to decay.
Thin-layer (up to 16 layers per 1 sq. cm.), “condo” pine, growing on dry sandy soils, is considered especially valuable.
The physical characteristics of pine and spruce are very similar, but spruce has a looser structure and is therefore warmer. The chemical compositions are also similar. But pine has knottier wood and is more often affected by blue staining (sapwood coloring). This does not affect the strength characteristics of the wood in any way. Blue stain - the scourge of almost all conifers - is caused by many types of fungi that exist at a temperature of 26-27 ° C. It is impossible to avoid it without special events.
To prevent the appearance of such stains and whiten existing ones, you can use antiseptics. It is better to cover the log house with them only after assembly and only from the outside, and for internal processing it is better to use special means. Acrylic-based protective and decorative varnish has proven itself to be excellent. It does not contain organic solvents, therefore it is safe for health. In addition, it does not change color either wet or dry.
Rafter system - construction technology
Before building the rafter system, romeomk purchased a screwdriver, screws, nails, angles, plates and a level. and the attic floor will be built from 150x50 mm boards. The width of the attic is six meters.
First, I placed the side posts on the roof and secured them to the corners with screws and boards at an angle so that they would not fall. In the middle he installed four racks, in the places of future walls and along the edges (to the left and right of the stairs).
He attached the six-meter crossbars to the racks using metal plates - 10x20 cm with holes. I was pleased with the result, everything is holding very firmly.
Then I installed the sloping rafters on the outside. Attached to the post and beam using a pre-drilled hole. At the top, I attached the rafters to the post with screws using plates. The rafters are secured at the top with horizontal boards for strength.
The height of the roof ridge was made 2 meters so that the roof slope was 30 degrees. Then 5 racks are placed, and the skate is fixed to them. The structure is leveled and fixed with boards.
A rafter template is made, and all the others are made from it. They go up to the attic and are secured. The rafter length is 3.65 m and to make the structure reliable, he adds inclined posts from the middle of the rafter to the floor board.
It's the end of October, time to put on the roof. Romeomk decided to make the temporary roof from roofing felt. It was spread horizontally. To avoid making holes, I decided to secure it with tape. The roofing material was laid from top to bottom, placing the bottom layer under the top.
Fastening roofing felt using tape did not pay off. During the year, roofing felt was blown off the roof three times, so Romeomk decided to fasten it with bars - it’s more reliable.
First, we had to put in order and finish the existing one. 10,000 rubles were spent on this. (cement), and reinforcement, sand and crushed stone were mined in the abandoned fields of our homeland. We did the foundation work ourselves.
For the construction of the walls of the house, timber was purchased: 100x150 - 2 cubes, 150x150 - 22 cubes, 100x25 board - 1.5 cubes, 50x150 board - 3 cubes. Stapler with staples, dowels – 120 pcs. 1.2 meters long, staples for, flax-jute fiber - 3 bags of 12 rolls, nails, corners, plates per roll - 2 pieces of 10 m each, various screws - 3 kg, hand saw, Oleo-Mac chainsaw.
They paid for all this - 140,000 rubles. All this was enough to build a box with an attic frame.
For a temporary roof and painting of the gables we bought: fastening tape, roofing felt - 12 rolls - 3120 rubles, 2 rollers of 50 m - 500 rubles, aquatex - 3 buckets of 20 liters - 9600 rubles, self-tapping nails - about 1000 rubles, 1.5 cubes of boards for the facade - 7 500 rub.
RUB 2,000 was spent on lathing the inside of the attic along the walls, the entrance door, stairs, and subfloor. Mostly garage supplies were used.
For finishing, insulation and waterproofing around two attic rooms. Finishing of floors from planed boards 27 mm. and finishing the walls of 2 rooms with clapboard spent - 40,000 rubles.
Ondulin roofing, nails, and ridge corners cost RUB 27,000.
We poured 8 pillars under the terrace. To do this, we ordered a 2.7 cubic meter concrete mixer with delivery of 8,500 rubles (reinforcement and boards from stock).
We build a house from timber
If it is built, as they say, into four walls, then in this case there is nothing complicated. A regular gable roof is installed, or whatever you like best. In this case, the roof can be immediately finished, that is, permanent. It is imperative to take into account that with this type of roof, the rafters cannot be supported on the side walls, as this can lead to them moving apart, which, of course, is simply unacceptable. Therefore, sub-rafter connections are laid under the rafters, as a result of which the weight of the roof will be evenly distributed over the entire frame as a whole. Thus, when the natural shrinkage of the log house takes place, the log house itself will sink evenly, along with the roof, without changing its geometric dimensions. Roof for a log house in pictures:
We cover the five-wall log house.
Attics.
Very often, a type of roof such as an attic is used for log houses. This allows you to add living space to the house through the attic space, without increasing the building area. In this case, the side walls of such a room are the roof slopes. The natural shrinkage of the log house in this case will not affect the room itself.
Log house with one and a half floors.
As an option, an attic can be considered with the so-called one and a half floor. In this case, the floor area of the attic is usually equal to the floor area of the lower floor. It's done like this. After all the crowns of the first floor have been laid, the walls of the log house are raised about another meter and a half, and then the chopped pediment is laid out. At the same time, the area of the second floor increases by thirty-five percent compared to a conventional attic. However, this version of the log house is somewhat more expensive than the usual one.
We are expanding the premises on the second floor.
Another option for expanding the second floor due to the roof would be to add an additional room to the attic using a terrace. Only on the first floor level does it have an open view, but on the second floor it is a closed room. At the same time, it is worth remembering, again, that there is a natural shrinkage of the log house. And over time, the pillars on which the extension of the second floor rests have to be shortened just by the amount of this shrinkage. To avoid this unpleasant procedure, these pillars should be placed on jacks during construction. And as the height of the log house decreases, gradually change the height of the pillars. And since the first floor of such a terrace will be open, it is worthwhile to sufficiently insulate the floor of the second floor in its remote part in advance in order to avoid freezing in the winter.
Thus, knowing these secrets, you can not only correctly install a roof on a log house, but in some cases the roof will help increase the living space of the house.
How to build a house from timber video above
Adviсe
The main advantages of wooden houses
Today we will talk about the ancient Russian dwelling - the place where our ancestors rested, slept, warmed themselves and prepared food for themselves. You have all read or listened to Russian fairy tales, watched feature and animated films based on them. Therefore, it will not be difficult for you to remember the name of the dwelling of the Russian peasant, which existed, changing little, for about a thousand years. The image of this building is in front of you.
Students. They call it the home of a Russian person. Izba.
Izba is a Russian log house. The main place in the house was occupied by the stove, which is why the houses were called huts (from the word “istopa” - a warm place).
Many travelers, having visited Russia, admired wooden buildings. Listen to how one French traveler wrote about the hut: “The construction... made of logs is excellent. There are no nails or hooks, but everything is so well finished that there is nothing to scold, although the builders have all the tools in the same axes...”
Do you think the French traveler was right? Is it possible to build a hut without using nails?
Choosing roofing material for the roof of your house?
When developing a wooden construction project, there is a large selection of roof types that can be used in its construction. You can choose a house with a roof: single-pitched, gable, hip, hipped, broken. When choosing a roof, you should rely on the fact that it should be combined with the overall appearance of the house, and also be as reliable as possible to protect the house from precipitation and other external influences.
Apart from the type, it can also vary depending on the roofing material used. Today, the most popular are metal tiles (galvanized or non-galvanized) and soft roofing. More expensive, but also more impressive and sophisticated is the installation of a wooden roof.
In its design, the roof is no different from a regular roof. The main element of the roof structure is the rafter system, which can be of two types: inclined and hanging. The roof itself is attached to a special sheathing or continuous flooring. During the installation process, the roof is waterproofed and insulated. The final stage is the installation of special drainage systems consisting of gutters and downpipes.
Depending on the purpose of using the space of the house located under the roof, interior decoration is carried out. If this is an attic space, then “fine” finishing is practically not required. If this is a living space or an attic floor, then a complex of additional work is carried out on insulation and the construction of end walls to ensure the necessary level of comfort, as well as sound and heat insulation.
Roof rafters are made of timber 40x150 mm and 40x100 mm. The roof extension is at least 30 cm. It is possible to impregnate the rafters and sheathing with fire-fighting compounds, for an additional fee. The choice of roof and additional services depends entirely on you. BorIzba specialists are always ready to answer all your questions and help you make the best choice.
Tools
How to protect a wooden house from external factors?
To protect a wooden house from rotting and damage by bugs, the wood is impregnated (sometimes more than once) with complex compounds such as “Pinotex” or “Dufatex”. At the same time, "Pinotex" also has decorative properties - it can give the wood of a house one or another color shade, preserving the pattern of its structure.
Supporters of environmentally friendly materials can be recommended to coat the wood with turpentine and wax. Protective oil, both colored and colorless, is made on the basis of natural oils - linseed and tallow. Ecological coatings do not require primers and do not form a film, but they must be applied every two years.
Any protective and decorative coatings must be updated periodically. To do this, the previous ones must be completely removed using a special composition.
Previously, to protect the thermal “lock” - the longitudinal groove of the log - and to ensure a tight fit of the logs, the grooves were lined with moss - “mossed”. Today, cushioning material is impregnated with an antiseptic. This way the house is protected from external influences while remaining environmentally friendly. Another problem - the flammability of wood - is eliminated by impregnating it with fire retardant compounds, which makes the log fireproof.
Rafter structures and their importance in modern house construction?
Rafter structures are also of great importance. They are usually made from softwood lumber. Wood has a porous structure, so if stored improperly, especially in the rain, it can increase in size, or, in other words, swell. Therefore, it is also recommended to purchase lumber from a specialized company. If this does not happen or the materials have already been purchased, they need to be prevented - stacked in a dry, ventilated room and kept for a month and a half.
Another property of wood is that it burns extremely well. Professionals only use lumber that has undergone special treatment for roofing. As a rule, these are fire-bioprotective compounds based on antiseptics and soluble salts.
The primary purpose of any roof is to protect the people living under it from precipitation. That is why our ancestors hid in caves. This property does not lose its relevance today. To prevent your house from being damaged by rainwater and snow, you need to take care of good drainage.
The drainage system is responsible for ensuring that rain and melt water flows from the roof, as they say, in the right direction, and not into the basement of the house or into the foundation. One more thing - in the cold season, it is advisable to heat the gutters so that the water does not freeze along the way.
So, in order for the roof to serve for a long time and please the owner with the absence of problems and an attractive appearance, you need to adhere to the following rules:
Entrust roofing design to professionals;
Make sure that design and installation are carried out by a single contractor;
Make sure that the under-roof “pie” is properly constructed;
Choose high-quality, specially treated wood for rafters;
Equip the roof with a drainage system.
Is it possible to do all this on your own? It is possible if you devote yourself exclusively to construction. If you have other things to do and a job you love, it’s better to contact a company that has been professionally installing roofs for years.
Probably every person dreams of a country house (): large sunny windows, a beautiful sofa, a bouquet of wild flowers on a mirrored table, wooden floors...
Wooden floors are familiar and loved in Russia. Wood is the oldest and most traditional floor covering. In winter, wood creates a feeling of warmth and comfort, in summer it gives a feeling of security and comfort.
If you decide to lay a solid board (solid wood) in a country house or apartment, first of all you need to pay attention to the quality of preparation of the subfloor. The fact is that wooden floor coverings must be laid on a well-dried, smooth surface. Uneven subfloors can lead to cracks or other damage to the floor over time. And of course, in no case should we forget about the climatic conditions of operation of the already laid coating. Wood is a “living” material, and your floor will last a long time at room temperature and humidity of 45-55%. These are, of course, the basics, but they should not be neglected.
When choosing a type of wood, the buyer primarily focuses on appearance. In the world of flooring, there is also the concept of fashion and design. Most often, the floor is selected to match the general one. Thanks to the huge range of colors of the breeds, you can choose a floor to suit every taste. Solid wood is presented in both distinct colors: black, red, and other shades. The variety of choices allows you to implement bold design solutions and gives free rein to your imagination. For example, black floors are very popular nowadays - they add a certain elegance to your home.
Repair
What is wood moisture content?
For a long time, a log house was laid from logs of natural moisture, which, after laying, lost moisture under the influence of their own gravity and the overlying crowns. At the same time, the logs somewhat decreased in volume and fit more tightly to each other, which reduced the ventilation coefficient of the walls. When cutting a cup of log using the “Canadian” method, it is done with a prosthetic - this further seals the joint of the logs and reduces heat loss.
When laying a frame made of wood with natural moisture, you must avoid rigid fastenings, because in the first 2 years it will shrink by 5-7% and nothing should interfere with this. Over several years, many cycles of swelling and shrinkage will occur, after which further changes in the size of the wood will be insignificant. Since wood shrinkage along the grain differs from transversely, all vertical structures must have shrinkage compensators. This will help maintain the geometry of the house and adjust the height of the structures. The logs are fastened together in a checkerboard pattern with wooden dowels with a diameter of 20-25 mm, laid at a distance of 1.5-2 meters from each other.
If you bring chamber-dried wood to the construction site, then in the open air it will intensively absorb moisture, which will lead to the bending of the logs. Then, instead of wooden dowels, you will have to use metal reinforcement. In this case, the house will not be able to give normal shrinkage and the compaction described above; the logs will begin to swell and bulge out of the log house. Only steel ties can keep the house from falling apart. Is it worth going this route, given that wood and metal conflict?
Statistics Videos: 2
If you have chosen a gable roof for your wooden house, then you will need a log or timber as the main material for its manufacture. The entire process of constructing this structure can be divided into several stages and types. In this article we will tell you what types of rafter systems for log houses there are, as well as what roof schemes exist.
Nailless (male) roof
A nailless roof is a structure in which planks are laid on horizontally installed logs. The ends of the logs need to be cut into the transverse logs that form the pediment.
In this case, the load-bearing structure is the end walls, the “males”, the place where the wall of the log house narrows. Logs, which are called slegs, are fastened in it using the notching method, and a roof is laid on them.
Logs from the longitudinal walls are hidden inside the house; about three of them are needed to work. For the upper part, as a rule, a large ridge log is used.
To make the roof structure more durable, you need to install a rafter leg. It is a triangular structure, and is installed in the middle part of the roof.
There is a more economical arrangement of the roof: the end walls are covered with hewn boards, and rafters are used to cover the roof. Males do not do this in such a situation; a sheathing of thin logs is installed over them.
Types of rafter systems
For the construction of a pitched roof, you can use hanging rafters and layered ones.
This design is the easiest to assemble and its manufacture requires little material. Due to the fact that the layered rafters are supported by the emphasis on the outer part of the walls, they exert pressure on the walls of the building. The pressure on the roof causes a bursting effect on the walls, causing them to move apart. 
Layered rafter systems are used when roof spans do not exceed 6 meters. If the span is more than 6 m, another support is installed. If the building has a central load-bearing wall, this will be an additional advantage.
Hanging rafter systems
If roof spans are more than seven meters and additional supports are not provided, hanging rafters are used. This design does not put a load on the walls, the expansion effect is not noticeable. The tie, which is installed in the middle part of the rafter legs, strengthens the rafter. 
Roof structure on males
The main supporting system in this type of roof is the end walls. Shallow recesses are made in the gables, and logs (slegs) are installed in them. Therefore, the male roof, in some way, is a continuation of the wall, the logs of which become increasingly shorter towards the top.
The structure of such a roof can be assembled on the ground. You need to start the process with a base removed from the walls onto temporary linings. They cut down the log house not to its full height, but in parts, re-arranging the crowns. The advantage of this technique is that the structure can be adjusted on the ground.
The end wall is formed from male logs, which are fastened together with dowels. This makes it possible to preserve the stability of the pediment. And using dowels, you can achieve additional thermal insulation. Since this design does not have horizontal expansion, it is not entirely reliable.
In order to increase strength, you can connect the poles with male logs:
- using the “paw-to-foot” cutting method in a place where the logs around the corner are not marked;
- “in the paw with a cut”;
- using the cutting method “at the root”.
If the work is done incorrectly and poorly, the house will be leaky. Therefore, if you do not have the relevant experience or knowledge, trust a specialist.
At what angle should the roof slopes be?
This issue can be solved with the help of a plumb line nailed to the board and a cord that is attached in the middle of the board.
Raise the board so that the plumb line points to the center of the pediment. If you plan to build a roof with different slopes, then the board needs to be moved to the corner, and the ends of the cord stretched towards the corners.
The board needs to be attached to the wall, the cords should be fixed in the corners. After this, you can already visualize the angles of the slopes. A similar procedure must be carried out with the second part of the pediment. Use a water level and focus on the horizon mounted on the boards.
Once the edge of the slopes has been marked, continue installing the gable logs.
Cutting a ridge log can be done in two ways: in the first, we cover the pediment with a log, and in the second, we cover the ridge with a male log.
If you choose the first option, then the gaps that form at the top of the gable can be closed with short male logs.
For the second option, experts advise using sheathing made of thick and massive logs. This way you can level and raise the roof a little. The most relevant use of sheathing for roofs made of planks.
When erecting a roof, do not forget that its projection beyond the gables should not exceed 50 cm. In a situation where the projection is greater than this distance, you can strengthen the structure using logs with a large cross-section.
Also, for strengthening, you can cut in 2 or 3 ridge ledges and create a step-shaped protrusion in this way. In this case, the presence of lower logs is not necessary; they can be replaced with short logs.
The sheathing should lie flat. Since logs that have been cut cannot be hewn, when cutting, do not forget to measure their end using a level. In order to check the flatness of the laying, you can run a flat board along the roof. If you find depressions or unevenness, replace them with sawings; eliminate hunchbacks.
Roof structure with hanging rafters
The roof with hanging rafters is a triangular frame, the beams of which run through the entire structure.
The pressure that acts on the system is distributed over the entire area of the frame: vertical pressure on the rafters has a bursting effect, and the legs, which are embedded in the beams, transfer the pressure to the beam, this reduces the stress of the entire structure.
The design of a roof with hanging rafters has a drawback - the beams bend. Since in such a situation there is no support point for the bottom of the leg, experts suggest using a rafter system with a “headstock”. In this system, it is possible to use material with a smaller cross-section.
Methods for joining wooden parts
Various techniques are used to connect and join building materials. Depending on the type of structure, bolts, dowels, dowels, nails, glue, and staples are used.
Not only the reliability of the units, but also the stability of the entire structure depends on the dimensions of the plane at the junction of the elements.
As the contact area between parts increases, the friction force increases. To complicate the nodal connection, instead of straight cuts on the beams, make dovetail or claw locks. In such cuts, a force arises that prevents the separation of wood elements.
The connection of large units can be done independently, using an ax or saw. And it is better to entrust the connection of small, complex joints to professional carpenters.
Installation of rafters on a log house
Log roof rafter system: nailless (male) roof, layered rafters, hanging rafter systems.
Gable roof for a log house: analysis of construction options + technological details
Constructing a roof over a log building is not an easy job, requiring the craftsman to have the skills of a skilled carpenter and knowledge of materials science. The performer will need to first practice making connections. He must take into account the traditional shrinkage of walls made of wood. In order for a gable roof on a log house to be built flawlessly, you need information about the methods of its construction, including ancient roofing technologies. The information we offer will be useful to both independent craftsmen and customers of construction crews for meaningful control.
"Tricks" of wooden housing construction
The popularity of log baths, dachas, and residential buildings is justified by the amazing atmosphere that returns to folk origins. Buildings made from natural wood are distinguished by excellent thermal technology and an attractive price. A significant advantage is the ability to spontaneously allow excess evaporation to pass through. One cannot help but pay tribute to the solid environmental advantages.
However, the popular natural building material has an impressive list of disadvantages. In addition to flammability and sensitivity to waterlogging, carpenters-builders and future owners must be concerned about:
- Dimensional instability of wooden structures. Linear movements occurring due to fluctuations in humidity and temperature will accompany the structure until completion of operation. In the first years, the elements of the wooden system move more actively; over time, the “agility” decreases, but does not disappear.
- Mandatory shrinkage, taking into account which it is not customary to equip log houses for at least a year, is better than two to three years after the assembly of the crowns. After installation, wood sags on average by 10-20%, which must be taken into account when designing a house. Walls made of laminated veneer lumber will sag the least, but its use will not completely eliminate the change in the height of the box.
- The difference is in the vector direction of shrinkage. An intensive change in size occurs across the log, i.e. perpendicular to the fibers. Along the fibers, the size of the scaffolding changes insignificantly: shrinkage along the length of the trunk should not even be taken into account.
Without taking into account the above circumstances, the wooden roof will definitely “move away”. Gaps will appear between the foot of the house and the roofing system, allowing raindrops and melt water to pass through. The wood will then begin to rot, resulting in the complete destruction of not only the upper enclosing structure, but also the house as a whole.
Taking into account the specifics of the material is not enough for the competent construction of a wood roof. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with all possible construction methods in order to choose an option that is rational in terms of cost and effort. You need to understand what forces will act on walls made of logs or timber, and what method can be used to extinguish their effect.
Types of angled roofs for log houses
Roofs with two slopes are ideally combined with chopped feet. Two steep slopes create the impression of a fairy-tale hut. The most suitable tilt angle is 45º-60º, but variations in both directions have every right to exist.
A rival in the field of arranging log houses for a gable structure can be a sloping roof, which has a similar or pentagonal cross-sectional configuration. Gable roofs over log houses can be insulated or cold, attic or non-attic. All types of roofing materials, including shingles and reeds, can be used as a finishing coating.
In wooden construction, ancient technologies for constructing roofs at an angle have been preserved, and new methods have emerged that allow wood to move freely without the threat of destruction of the building. According to the method of installation, gable roofs of wooden buildings are divided into two fundamental categories:
- The roofs on the males are on chopped and joined log gables. They complete the walls of the box at the ends, representing their natural continuation. The load-bearing parts of the roof structure, according to the “male” method, rest directly on the gables. A sheathing is laid on top for installation of the finishing coating.
- Roofs with rafter system. They are constructed in accordance with the regulations dictated by standard technology for the construction of pitched roofs. Rafter roofs can be suspended or layered, resting on floor beams or on walls through the upper crown. The gables are simply covered with boards, thanks to which the construction budget is reduced along with the effect of a chopped house.
In fact, roof manufacturers rarely follow just one technology. The rafter structure can be combined with the male system. A hanging truss can be installed in the middle of a male roof so that it does not sag under its own weight, coupled with the roof and snow.
There are schemes that are generally difficult to classify into a specific category, because their decisive design features can be classified in different ways.
For example, the ceiling beam of a log house, matrix or transfer, can play the role of a basis for installing layered rafters or serve as a tie that combines elements into a hanging triangle. The tightening of the truss can be moved higher, as was suggested in another article describing the construction of a roof over a semi-attic. There are a lot of options, but to understand the principle of their design, you need to familiarize yourself with the classic schemes.
Rules for making a roof on males
It would be a sin for roof builders using the male scheme not to take advantage of the invaluable advantage of chopped boxes. They can be disassembled and reassembled many times like a children's construction set. Therefore, the upper crowns are simply removed from their proper places and installed on a suitable flat area.
It is much more pleasant to work on solid ground without risk; there is no need to move along shaky scaffolding and walkways. Under the crown, linings made of aspen chocks are installed. They imitate the previous rows of logs, thanks to which there is no slightest difficulty with leveling to the horizon and fitting nodes.
If we conditionally divide a log house into three horizontal parts, then the lower 2/3 will be on the walls, and the upper third will be on the frame of the gable roof. Essentially, this is a wedge-shaped top of a log house. They build it almost the same way, but gradually reduce the width of the end walls so that the edges of the gables resemble stairs with steps. Instead of long logs falling on the walls of the box, the logs are laid in a notch. They are not installed in every row, but after two or three.
Males, after being erected to full height, are filed down to form a clear triangular shape. Then the sheathing is mounted on the base, with roofing material on top.
The tops of the males are connected by a ridge strip, which can be laid in two different ways:
- With the installation lay down at the top of the male. In such cases, the log completing the pediment is cut into two edges. The stepped projections of the male are sawed off or hewn into a triangle. There are uncovered areas at the top that will need to be filled with shorties.
- Overlapping with logs of the male. According to this technology, the specified ridge beam is covered with male logs, shortened towards the top. The slopes are located below the line of future slopes. The sheathing then has to be constructed from logs of impressive thickness in order to align the plane of the slopes with the boundaries of the gables. Instead of laths, you can install rafters, the thickness of which compensates for the lack of height in the plane formed by the beams.
To make slugs, take the smoothest logs Ø 18-20cm. They are fastened with simple notches “in the paw” or complicated analogues “with a notch” or “spike”. Because the edge of the pediment is trimmed or sawed off, notches with horizontal parts of fastening units of the “in-a-pan” type are not suitable. After all, part of the load-bearing element of the connection will be removed during processing.
The length should form the gable overhang of the roof. Usually it is 0.5 m. If it is decided to increase the width of the overhang, the legs are laid in pairs or three in each “step” of the male to increase the load-bearing capacity of the structure. Upon completion of the construction of the roof frame, its geometry is checked by installing the board on an imaginary slope.
The bulges revealed by the board are trimmed off, the recesses are filled with wooden overlays. However, experienced carpenters advise not to sew on “patches”, but rather to trim more.
The old craftsmen did not use fasteners at all when making roofs on males. Structures of this kind are called nailless roofs. There were no gradually rusting rods in the body of the wood, so the structures lasted for hundreds of years.
Combination with rafters
It happens that the construction of a traditional male roof is not possible. For example, as a result of diligent cutting of excess from the legs and males, the cut-in joints can be significantly damaged. In such situations, the classic version is simply supplemented with layered rafters on top. The need to trim the humps then automatically disappears. The final alignment is done along the upper edges of the rafter legs.
The production of rafters is carried out according to a template with marks of notches and leg lengths. They are simply chopped with bowls. Accuracy in cutting the connections between the rafters and the beams is not necessary; on the contrary, the bowls should be 3-5 cm larger than the outline of the beam. The frame of the house will inevitably settle, losing height. The rafters will remain almost the same size except for a few mm. The settling box will drag the bottom of the rafters with it, causing the angle of connection between the bottom of the rafter and the top crown to decrease. Those. The rafters resting against the upper logs or floor beams will gradually move apart.
A relatively slight displacement of the rafters that is safe for the roof will be ensured by a wide notch. There should be a gap between the tops of the rafter legs resting on the ridge beam. Moving apart at the bottom, the rafters at the top will come closer together during a period of intense shrinkage. After shrinking, the tops are connected with a wooden overlay and/or a tie installed just below. Without waiting for shrinkage, you can connect them with a hinge unit, which allows the wooden parts of the system to move without creating gaps between the frame and the roof.
The lower heels of the rafters in the described scheme rest against the upper crown, which works like a Mauerlat, or against the edges of the mats - ceiling beams. The joints are made with tongue-and-groove notches, and the eaves overhang is extended with fillets. To prevent the gable log roof from being blown off the log house, the rafters are tied through one to the pins hammered into the second crown from the top with wire twists. In areas with high wind loads, you need to tie each rafter leg. After active shrinkage of the wooden structure, loose twists should be tightened.
Two slopes with layered rafters
The scheme is similar to the previous type, only the slugs are not needed at all. Rafter legs get their name from the fact that at the top and bottom they rest on independent supports. The lower heels rest on the upper crown, which serves as a mauerlat, or on the ceiling beams. There are several options for supporting the top of the gable roof rafter system elements over the log house:
- A ridge or prince's bridle, laid between males. The tops of the rafters laid lightly are not fastened or connected with a hinge for the reasons stated above.
- Internal main wall. There should also be a gap between the top of the rafters, because their edges rest on walls of different heights, therefore, with different shrinkage. There is no particular point in installing males for such a roof; the gables are simply sheathed with boards.
- Support structure installed on mats under the ridge beam. Males in this case again do not form. To compensate for shrinkage, the support pillars are installed on screw adjusting devices, which make it possible, following a decrease in the height of the log house, to reduce the length of the support posts. Previously, instead of compensating devices, wooden pads were used, which were removed after shrinkage.
The eaves overhang of a slanted roof over a log house is most often provided by sewn fillies. Although it can be formed by extending the rafter legs, if they are fastened not with notches, but with sliding connecting devices. Sliding fasteners allow you to build roofs over chopped piles without waiting for shrinkage.
Hanging roof structure diagram
Hanging rafter legs got their name because they seem to hang over the box being built. They only have walls as lower supports, and the same part of the rafter located opposite serves as the upper support. The lower heels are connected by a tie, thanks to which the hanging rafters turn into an equilateral triangle, also called a rafter arch or truss. The tightening “takes on the chest” the thrust transmitted in a layered pattern to the walls.
Compensating for the effect of thrust by tightening is a significant plus of the hanging system. It was happily borrowed by builders of layered roofs, trying to minimize the forces that push the walls of the house when the load on the slopes increases. The role of tightening can be successfully played by a ceiling beam. And then it really will not become clear whether the rafter frame of a gable roof will need to be classified as a layered or hanging category.
The invaluable advantage of hanging systems is that for production With The roof sides of the log house do not have to go up. All rafter triangles fit together perfectly according to the template and are adjusted in safe conditions.
The first place on the list of disadvantages is taken by restrictions on overlapped spans. Systems without a central support do not cover large-span buildings. When arranging a house up to 5 m wide, a simple rafter arch is used without additional parts that increase the rigidity of the structure. Tightenings for larger spans may bend from their own weight. To eliminate sagging, a headstock is installed in the center of the rafter triangle.
To understand the essence of constructing a hanging rafter system, let’s consider the technology of installing arches over a small log house. The lower heels of the rafters will rest on the ceiling beams; the connection of the upper edges will be reinforced with a wooden overlay and tie. We will entrust the formation of the eaves overhang to fillets, and we will entrust the responsibility of ensuring the rigidity of the structure to small supports. Males will not breed. The pediments created by the slopes will be covered with a board after installation work.
To mark the lines of the slopes, we find the centers of both ends and mark them on the upper crown. Focusing on the mark, we will vertically install a board, any longitudinal edge of which will repeat the imaginary central axis. We equip both ends with boards and mark the height of the roof on them using a water or laser level. You need to stretch a construction cord between the boards to mark the ridge line of the roof.
The procedure for installing a hanging roof:
- We align the beam bypasses that extend beyond the foot. We hammer a nail into the outer beams according to the design dimensions, pull the cord, mark the excess, and saw off with a chainsaw.
- On the ceiling beams we mark the location of the nests required for installing the rafter legs. Similarly, we hammer in the nails, tighten the lace and draw the groove lines for the future tooth on the rafter leg.
- We make a template for the roof truss. We apply a board of suitable size with its lower edge to the first matrix, the upper edge must be held so that the edge of the board lies under the lace indicating the ridge line. Where the board and cord touch, place a mark and draw a line down from it using a plumb line. We draw a line for the bottom cut along the matrix and mark on the rafter the location of the tooth where the socket is marked on the beam.
- We make rafters using the template and assemble them on a level area.
- We transfer the rafter triangles to the roof and install them in place. We check the verticality with a plumb line and secure it with temporary jibs.
- On the mats inside the log house, using a ruler, two nails and laces, mark the grooves for supports under the rafter legs. It seems to me that it is more convenient to do this procedure together with marking the nests.
- We make supports by forming a spike at their base. We note the height of the support after the fact, trying it on the rafter leg.
- We install drains, the top of which is secured with two wooden plates.
- We select the grooves in the outer matrices for installing the fillies.
- We sew on the outer fillets, hammer nails into them, and stretch a cord between them.
- We install intermediate fillets along the cord, after installing which we decorate the overhangs with a wind board.
From the inside, the rafter triangles should be connected with diagonal wind ties. From the outside, the rigidity of the structure will be supported by lathing, the type of which is selected according to the type of finishing coating.
Those wishing to install a warm roof will need to install thermal insulation between the rafters. Waterproofing is laid on top of the rafters before installing the sheathing, regardless of whether the structure will be insulated.
The examples and diagrams of gable roofs over log boxes we have given will help you decide on the best construction option. Any of the basic versions can be modified and adapted to individual technical conditions. Information about the specifics of the device is useful both for those who are going to equip their property with their own hands, and for those who need to control the work.
In general, a gable roof on a log house is a widely used solution. This is a relatively simple installation and no problems with snow during the cold season. In addition, almost all materials are suitable: metal tiles and slate. The main thing is to accurately calculate and design everything. The most important thing: correct calculation of the roof slope. From 20 to 60 degrees depending on weather conditions in the region.
Logging a gable roof: how to make a gable roof for a log house
In what ways can a gable roof be constructed on a log house? It is advisable to prefer new or old technology for constructing the roof of a log house.
Methods of attaching rafters to a log house
After erecting the walls and waiting six months for the shrinkage to complete, you can move on to the next stage of construction - installing the roofing system. For wooden houses and bathhouses, a standard gable roof with a significant slope is most often chosen, on which snow will not accumulate. The rafters for a log house must be strong and correctly installed; the security of the walls and ceilings and the durability of the entire structure depend on the reliability of the roof. How to install rafters on a log house?
Installation options for the rafter system
Before installing the rafters, it is necessary to install the ceiling beams. It is necessary to make a technological hole in the upper crown of the log house, which is called a notch - a beam will be installed into it. In this case, the hole should not be through so that the end of the ceiling beam does not suffer from atmospheric phenomena.
The distance between the beams depends on what material is supposed to be used for the ceiling, and on the options for using the attic or attic space. The minimum recommended step is half a meter.
Installation of rafters on a log house can be carried out in two main ways:
Installation and installation of rafters with your own hands on a log house or bathhouse
The procedure for constructing any building in general is quite simple. First, the foundation is laid, the walls are erected, the roof is installed, and then the interior work is carried out. The topic of this article is installing rafters on a log house with your own hands.
Installing ceiling beams
If you have a building made of logs or timber, then the top 2 crowns when constructing walls do not need to be secured before installing the ceiling beams. Special holes will be made in them, called “notches” for laying beams. The dimensions of the notches are determined by the dimensions of the ceiling beams, which, in turn, are pre-calculated for the expected loads. An option is possible in which no cutting is made into the upper crown, but in this case, if it is necessary to replace the ceiling beam, problems will arise, since you will have to remove the upper crown or saw off the damaged beam.
The notch for the ceiling beam must be “blind”, i.e. non-through. This will help protect the end of the beam from exposure to weather conditions.
The required step for installing ceiling beams is calculated based on the expected loads and the material you use for this, the minimum step is 50 cm.
After installing the ceiling beams, you can think about how to install rafters on the house or bathhouse.
There are few ways to assemble rafters, or rather, only 2:
- Assemble roof trusses on the ground and lift them onto the house in finished form.
- Assemble directly on the roof and lift elements of roof trusses there.
The first method is good for relatively light structures that can be lifted by several people. The second is used for massive rafters that are difficult to lift manually onto the house. If you have the ability to lift the rafters with a crane, you can also assemble heavy trusses on the ground.
Assembling roof trusses on the ground
In previous articles we talked about the ways in which various elements of roof trusses can be connected. In this article we will look at a specific example of assembling hanging rafters with a crossbar for a 5x4 bathhouse with a gable roof. After assembly, we will install the rafters on the ground - it’s more convenient.
The rafter legs are made of edged boards “fifty” with a width of 10 cm. The crossbar and tie are made of the same material. The length of the rafter legs is 280 cm. The tightening length is 440 cm. We install the crossbar at a height of 50 cm from the ridge. The slope angles are 40°. Assembly instructions are determined by the design of the hanging rafters. The upper ends of the rafter legs rest against each other in the ridge; to do this, we saw off their ends so that the lower ends create an angle of 40° with a tightening (see photo). We also saw off the lower ends at the desired angle. You can fasten it using bolts, plates, nails, etc., having previously calculated the required quantity for each unit.
The crossbar gives additional rigidity to the rafters. To install it, we make a notch in the rafter leg to the width of the crossbar. At the ends of the crossbar we make a tooth with a length equal to the width of the rafter, and a thickness equal to the depth of the notch - on the rafter leg. We fasten with screws, nails or other fastening materials.
Do-it-yourself installation of rafters begins with the outer trusses, so it is better to sheathe them directly on the ground. To do this, after 40 cm we fill the rafters with bars for fastening the sheathing; the material for the bars can be taken in sizes 40x40 or 50x50. The sheathing boards should protrude beyond the tie by a width of 2.5 cm or more, so that water from the gable does not flow onto the sheathing of the bathhouse frame. When the cornice is sheathed, this outlet will be hidden by its sheathing.
You can sheathe the pediment not vertically, but horizontally. Then the sheathing is stuffed vertically, connecting the tie and rafter legs. Here, too, you need to provide 2.5 cm for the outlet on the tightening side, for the same purposes as in the vertical cladding option.
Installing assembled trusses
After all the trusses are assembled, they need to be lifted sequentially to the roof.
The rafter installation technology is as follows:
- We raise and secure the outer trusses. To do this, we drill 2-3 holes in the tightening for attaching the rafters to the beams of the upper crown of the log house. We place a plumb line on the crossbar in the center to control the verticality of the truss.
- If this is required by calculation, we install additional jibs. Jib booms can also be used to temporarily secure trusses until the entire system is fully installed. Once all the trusses have been lifted and installed, the jib can be removed.
- We install the central truss, also checking its verticality and securing it with additional elements if necessary.
- We install the remaining trusses in the same way as the central one.
- We connect the trusses together using lathing. It can be made from timber, edged or unedged boards, plywood, OSB boards. The choice of material for the sheathing is determined by the choice of roofing material with which you are going to cover the roof.
In order to assemble the rafters on the roof in the same way, 4 people are needed. The rafter legs are connected in a horizontal position, and then lifted and installed in place using ropes. In this option, difficulties may arise when installing intermediate trusses, since those already installed will interfere with their lifting.
As you can see, in the above example, the installation of trusses was carried out in the absence of a ridge girder. If a ridge girder is required for the roof, then it is no longer possible to assemble the rafters on the ground. In this case, they will have to be lifted onto the roof disassembled and assembled at the installation site.
Assembling rafters on the roof
If the design of your house provides for layered rafters, and not hanging ones, as in the previous example, then in order to install them, you need additional support. How to install the rafters correctly in this case? First you need to install the ridge girder.
If the gables of your house are made of brick or blocks, then the purlin can be supported on them, while the ends of the purlin should protrude beyond the gables so that you can create a cornice overhang. Purlins are usually made of logs or timber. The standard length of such material is 6 m. Manually lifting such a log onto the roof of a house is quite problematic; most likely, a crane will be required. The gables must withstand the pressure of the purlin, so they are made using reinforced masonry. By the way, it is possible to install the roof without rafters, only using ridge and side purlins. In this case, the sheathing is packed onto the purlins. This method is applicable for a roof with a cold attic space; if you plan to use the attic for housing, then keep in mind that in the attic the insulation must be able to be ventilated, so you will still have to use layered rafters.
For this type of rafters, the location of all elements in the same plane does not matter and the rafters can be laid on the ridge girder one by one.
Depending on the material and design loads, the rafters may have additional elements in the form of braces, struts, and racks. We described their fastening scheme in previous articles. If, according to the design of your house, the gables are not designed for the installation of a ridge girder, it is mounted on several racks, which are installed on a bench. In this case, the beam is first installed, the racks are installed on it, then the ridge girder and only then the layered rafters.
Installation and installation of rafters with your own hands on a log house or bathhouse: technology
Installation of rafters is possible in 2 ways. The first is when the roof truss is assembled on the ground and raised to the roof in finished form. The second is when the rafters are installed directly on the roof.
You have decided on a house, that’s already good! We hope your choice is a log house! And now an equally important issue is tormenting us - the roof.
Which roof to choose?
Which roof will best harmonize with a log house made of rounded logs? What roofing covering will best protect a log house or a log bathhouse from the adverse effects of the external environment?
Let's talk... Again, let's return to the construction market, which offers a wide range of roofing materials. The main desire is for it to be beautiful, to your liking, and to serve for many years. The variety of products makes my head spin, but I really want the wishes for the roof to coincide with the possibilities.
Now there is a huge selection of roofing materials and services on the market. It is very difficult to understand all this diversity; for this you need to write a separate website. Therefore, in this article we will consider only part of the finishing roofing materials and only superficially.
What types of roofing do we draw your attention to in this article: metal tiles and soft tiles. Both materials are in great demand at this time.
The most common, affordable, popular and suitable for a house made of logs or log baths are metal tiles and bitumen (soft) tiles.
These two types of coatings are relatively inexpensive, durable and beautiful. In our opinion, metal tiles harmonize well with a house or bathhouse made of rounded logs, while soft tiles are more suitable for a hand-cut house or bathhouse.
In terms of durability, these two options serve approximately the same.
They are also similar in cost, the only difference is that preparing the surface for installing soft tiles is more complicated and more expensive in terms of materials and cost of work. So, a roof made of soft tiles will cost you about 30-40% more..
In addition to aesthetic perception, there are differences in the installation and performance properties of these materials. Soft tiles are a much less slippery coating than metal tiles, therefore, on sloping roofs made of soft tiles, all kinds of foreign particles can be retained, causing the formation of various fungi, etc. This can be easily avoided by periodically cleaning the roof; also, bitumen roofing, unlike metal tiles, is a flammable material!
Metal tiles, in turn, are much lighter than soft tiles, which is much worse for a log house, since the upper crowns remain under-loaded during shrinkage.
Also, the “disadvantages” of metal tiles include sound permeability. Metal tiles are quite noisy during rain or hail. In general, both there are pros and cons. The choice is yours!
Details about metal tiles
Metal tiles are made of galvanized steel with a double-sided polymer protective coating. It is a lightweight material and easy to use. Pros: the ability to fit on different roof configurations, with any sizes. We are also pleased with the wide range of color options, this allows you to make your roof individual. A roof made of metal tiles can be covered at any time of the year, thanks to its good technical characteristics, which are not afraid of rain, cold or wind. This choice is one of the cost-effective ones, which is why it is quite popular. Undoubtedly, it looks very harmoniously combined with a log house made of rounded logs! But we advise you to accurately calculate the number of sheets, otherwise the consumption may increase significantly. Due to the specifics of the material, there is a risk of condensation. We recommend that, in order to avoid it, do not forget about under-roofing films, such as a vapor barrier, a hydrobarrier, and then this problem will be solved. There is also a minus - low noise insulation; thanks to the insulation, a small amount of noise resistance can be achieved. Metal tiles are guaranteed for up to 25 years.
Metal tiles are a good choice for a wooden country house!
This is what an almost completed metal tile roof looks like on a rounded log house. Agree, the combination of logs and metal looks good.
In progress. After installing the windproof film, counter battens and sheathing, everything is ready for installation of the metal tile itself.
The rafter system has just been completed. It is necessary to trim the logs of the gables and continue working further.
These were photographs from our practice.
Scheme of a metal roofing pie
Now a little theory. Let's look at the diagram to see what the roof looks like in cross-section, as they say, “roofing pie”
The rafter system is most often made from boards with a section of 50x200 or from timber 100x200.
For the counter-lattice, use a 50x50 block, install it in parts, leaving gaps between the bars for ventilation of the roof.
For the lathing, use a board with a cross-section of 25x100 or 125. The lathing is packed with a pitch equal to the pitch of the metal tile wave (most often it is 350 mm).
A windproof membrane is installed between the rafters and the falling beam (counter-lattice).
The metal tile itself is secured using special self-tapping screws with rubberized washers, so that the self-tapping screw is located under the crest of the tile wave.
The inner lining is mounted on the bottom of the rafter system through a vapor barrier membrane, and the free space between the membranes, usually the width of the rafter leg, is filled with insulation.
After this, the roof is equipped with eaves, wind and ridge strips and a drainage system is made or installed. The roof of a log house made of metal tiles is ready!
Now about soft tiles or, as they are also called, flexible bitumen shingles.
Due to its flexibility, it is a very convenient material; it is very durable with its low weight.
Soft tiles also boast resistance to adverse climatic factors and are waterproof. It does not rot and is not affected by corrosion. This type of tile is resistant to fires and high technical control requirements are observed in its production.
Unlike metal tiles, bitumen shingles still have a recommended temperature range for installation from +5 to +25 degrees. Again, we highly recommend the use of waterproofing, especially on complex roof structures.
During installation, you can do without additional expensive auxiliary equipment, and this material does not have a lot of waste.
But, most importantly, in contrast to metal tiles, you are not afraid of any noise from rain and hail due to good sound insulation. Flexible tiles are not afraid of frost and will also not upset you with the choice of model and color range.
Now there are a few disadvantages that you should know: soft tiles are more expensive than metal tiles, for installation they require obligatory lathing and, as already mentioned, compliance with temperature recommendations. Repairing shingles is not an easy task, be prepared, but the pros undoubtedly outweigh the cons. The guarantee on flexible tiles is up to approximately 25 years (valid for tightness). Covering a log house with soft tiles gives it a stylish and rich look.
Bituminous shingles harmonize perfectly with a log house or log bathhouse!
After installing the rafter system (due to the design features of this bathhouse (Ponamorevo bathhouse), the rafter is made of boards with a section of 50x150), wind protection, counter-lattice and sheathing are simultaneously installed. 
The installation of asphalt shingles has just been completed. It is also necessary to install a windproof board, hem the boxes, install a drainage system and, of course, remove debris!)))
These photos were also taken at our facility.
Roofing pie diagram of soft tiles
And again a little theory. Below we provide a diagram of a roofing pie for bitumen shingles.
The only difference is that installation of bitumen shingles requires a perfectly smooth and flat surface. That is, unlike metal tiles, for soft tiles it is necessary to make a continuous sheathing of moisture-resistant plywood. For this, moisture-resistant OSB or OSB boards are most often used.
In all other respects, the roofing “pie” is not much different, except that under the bitumen shingles it is still necessary to partially (along the edges of the roof planes) or completely install an underlayment carpet along the entire plane. But it's not very expensive.
So, the choice of roofing system is yours. Of course, there are many more options for roofing, and in our article we have focused on just two, as the most popular.
Good luck and patience to you in your construction, we hope that this is a log bathhouse or a log house!
The design diagrams for roofing pies are taken from open sources on the Internet.
The choice is yours, we are not inclining you to anything, good luck!!!
We talked about the features of assembling a pine log house, but now we are faced with the task of getting it under the roof as soon as possible. The weather is stormy, so it is not good for him to get wet in the rain.
So, what we have: an assembled log house consisting of nine complete rows.
Preparation
Before you start building a roof, you need to decide on its type. In our case, everything is obvious - the future bathhouse is conceived as a separate building without an insulated 2nd (attic) floor, so we will focus on a simple classic gable version.
And we will start with the installation of mauerlats, which will simultaneously serve as a support for the ceiling beams and rafter legs. We lay them on the left and right walls of the log house.
In order for them to firmly and reliably fall into place, they need to be “cut in”. To do this, we perform all the same operations as during the main felling: we center the logs, set the diagonal, mark, cut out the bowl with an ax, or how we cut out with a saw.
The bowl should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the log being laid, this will allow the mauerlats to be accurately leveled relative to each other. Next, we mark them with a “line” and select a groove.
Ceiling beams
Our rafter system is tied to the ceiling beams (they also act as “strings”), so we begin the work with them. We assemble each separately from edged boards 150mm wide and 50mm thick - two solid at the edges - 5.5 m, between them there are segments about 1 m long. We tighten them together with 100 mm nails.
In total, we will need 6 of these products; according to calculations, this should be enough for the strength of the ceiling structure and the steel system.
Before laying the finished beams, we mark the seats for them in the mauerlats. We select a groove in the marked place, approximately 10 cm deep. For reliability, we attach them to the frame using steel angles and self-tapping screws.
When marking, we do not forget to take into account a very important point - it is necessary to mark the place where the chimney will pass, so that later it does not rest against a rafter or ceiling beam
We begin to fasten the beams only after their level has been checked and when they are all laid
The two outer beams are placed exactly on the front and back of the frame, representing a continuation of the walls.
The distance between the p/b in our version turned out to be about 1 m, their extension beyond the limits was 50 cm.
This is what the finished structure of the supporting elements of the ceiling and roof looks like from below.
Having finished with this, we proceed directly to the main work.
Rafter system
This is a very important stage; the stability and reliability of the entire structure will depend on what materials are selected and whether everything is calculated correctly. Before you take up the saw and hammer, it’s worth doing a little math, namely, calculating the load that it will have to withstand. At the same time, do not forget to take into account the peculiarities of the climatic conditions of the region - with an abundance of snow, the slope becomes steeper.
The required reliability is ensured:
- the distance of the rafter legs from each other,
- their thickness,
- degree of steepness (at what angle they will stand).
In general, for correct calculations, there are special tables from which you can easily estimate all the necessary parameters. For example, this is well described in the book “How to Build a Rural House” by A.M. Shepelev. And so, experienced builders for such structures as baths determine this by eye.
According to our calculations it turned out like this:
Material - edged pine board 150x50mm,
- length of st/legs - 3.6mm,
-ridge height - 2.2m.
We connect the rafter legs together with metal plates and self-tapping screws. Having done this, we install them on the first ceiling beam, set the vertical to a plumb line and fasten them with nails 150 mm long. For reliability, we additionally install “struts” on each side.
We do the same with others. After installing all the legs/legs, so that nothing goes anywhere, we fasten them at the top with horizontal crossbars; for greater reliability, we also put a block along each slope (then they will be removed).
In the end, this is what happened.
Now it’s time for the sheathing. Material: edged board with dimensions 100x25mm. Of course, we lay it horizontally in increments of one board. As expected, there are no gaps in critical places: at the bottom we join together 2 boards, at the ridge there are 3 on each side of the slope.
Yes, by the way, before installing the sheathing, waterproofing was attached to the rafters.
Roof
Regular green corrugated sheeting was chosen as the roofing material.
Sheet size - 1.10x3.75m
Profile - 20mm
Quantity - 12 sheets (6 pieces per slope)
Roofing screws - green 4.8x35mm
Considering that the length of our legs was 3.6 m, we did not have to cut or join the sheets.
Cornice and pediment
After laying the roof, we proceed to other equally important work. We start by arranging the wooden cornice. On the right and left sides, where the ends of the ceiling beams protrude, we simply cover them with planed boards (100x25). Like this.
And on the front and back sides of the bathhouse we proceed as follows: to the outer beams we attach so-called “fillies” to the corners - scraps of boards, in our case 150x50mm, sawn at an angle. We nail another additional block to them on top, then we attach the cornice boards to them.
We start sewing up the gables by installing the uprights - 75x50mm bars. We attach 125x25mm boards to the frame from the outside, in 5cm increments.
We close the gaps with already planed lumber 100x25mm. After this we do the hemming of the roof.
In the same way, we carry out work on the front side of the gable, not forgetting to leave space for the door to the attic.
The photo shows that the protective canopy made of tin hangs freely, but there is no cornice. The thing is that, according to the plan, there will be a small terrace on this side, so it’s left like that for now.
In general, the roof construction work can be considered completed; all that remains is to treat the fresh board from precipitation. Of course, all the work was covered quite briefly, but even in this form I hope it will facilitate and help in this important matter.
The result of the work, the photo can be enlarged by clicking on it.
