For those who constantly make something, or just like to think about something, a marker board will be an indispensable thing. On it, you can quickly sketch your idea, homemade scheme, and then think about it. It is also convenient to work with a team on such a board, everyone will finish drawing their ideas, thoughts, and this is how a masterpiece will be born. In addition, with the help of such a board it is convenient to show the audience what exactly you want to do, demonstrate your ideas, and so on. According to the author, it took only one day to assemble the board, taking into account the search and purchase necessary materials. This board is hung on the wall.
Materials and tools for homemade:
- sheet of hardboard;
- a sheet of baguette glass 400x600 mm and 2 mm thick;
- boards with a section of 30x5 mm;
- self-tapping screws;
- white spray paint;
- bamboo skewers;
- white paper.
DIY tools: tape, drill, jigsaw, glue and screwdrivers.
Assembling the marker board:
Step one. Marker glass preparation
First you need to unpack the framing glass, it was purchased by the author in the framing workshop for only 250 rubles. Before painting, the glass must be degreased, for this you need alcohol or any solvent. Care must be taken when processing, as the edges of the glass can be quite sharp and can be easily cut.
Step two. Glass painting
Since glass was painted right on the balcony, the author assembled a small paint shop from newspapers for this purpose. In the photo you can see the paint that was used for these purposes. You will also need a respirator, since a regular bandage does not save even three layers.
In total, you need to apply 5-6 thin layers, between them you need to pause for 20-30 minutes so that the paint has time to dry. You need to paint carefully, because even a slight smudge will spoil all the work.
As a result, we had to do wet cleaning on the balcony, as the paint flew in all directions.
Step three. Sharp edge processing
To remove sharp edges, a chamfer was removed using a diamond file. When working with painted glass, it is not necessary to touch the painted surface, as the paint does not adhere well and the coating can be damaged.
Step four. Making a frame for a breadboard
The contour of the glass must be circled on a sheet of hardboard.
The fastening system is designed in such a way that the glass is pressed against the hardboard from above and below by wooden planks. The bar overlaps the glass by 5 mm.
Next, you need to step back from the long line on the hardboard 25 mm and draw another parallel line. The photo shows how it should look.
The slats need to be cut, focusing on the long side of the glass, that is, 600 mm.
On the bar, you need to make a longitudinal recess measuring 5x2 mm so that the bar fits snugly on the hardboard, and thus presses the glass well. This is done with a knife, you can also use a planer.
In total, you need to make two such strips.
Well, then you need to cut a frame from a piece of hardboard.
Since the paint transmits light a little, inner part the frame was pasted over with white paper, while the marker board became whiter. Next, the glass and slats are put in place.
The planks are fixed with self-tapping screws, they are screwed in from the back to press the hardboard with a hat. If it so happened that the screws turned out to be long, you can bite off the extra pieces with pliers. Planks can be painted white for style.
Making a shelf for felt-tip pens
The shelf for markers will be removable, it is attached to pins made of bamboo sticks. The diameter is 2.5 mm.
In the frame, you need to drill a hole of the same diameter and then expand it a little, shaking the drill in different directions.
In the shelf, you also need to outline two holes, they must correspond to those that were drilled in the frame. Well, then drill. Subsequently, pins are driven into the holes, it is advisable to put them on PVA glue.
How to hang a board
The board will be hung on the wall using screws. Drill holes in the frame 1 mm larger than the head diameter of the screws used. Well, then you need to drill holes in the wall, you can see a red nozzle on the drill, it catches dust, it costs only 35 rubles.
An unexpectedly simple and elegant solution for storing and convenient use of cosmetics. Often in the house you can find old trays that are not used, because they have long gone out of fashion.
I have such quite a gesture lying in front of the stove. I shovel ashes into it and shovel ashes from the stove. But you can hang it on the wall and use it to hold various useful things with magnets. Including cosmetics. If, for some political reason, you do not like the Zhesotov painting, you can drape the pallet with any fabric, as the author of the project did. Thus, entering in almost any interior color scheme.
Not everyone and not always has the opportunity to visit salons like this spalotus.me, but there is always the opportunity to make self-care for your girlfriend more convenient.
Further from the author of the project in machine translation.
I don't have many cosmetics, but there are enough of them to ruin my dressing table after a crazy morning getting ready for work. I use to toss my powders, blush, eye shadow, etc. back into the caddy on my desk after I use them, but more often than not, it was difficult to fit them back in so I leave them (as you can see on the picture). This will really annoy my husband.
I took some inspiration from IKEA magnetic spice containers that you may have seen before and decided to use the idea of sticking elements on a vertical surface and apply it to my cosmetics and empty wall. I hope you enjoy my creation.
Step 1: Step One - Choose a Board Appearance
First, I bought 2 small metal stainless steel pans from a local utility shop. I chose squares that would fit into the space I had in mind. They cost me $2.50 AUD each.
Behind the canvas upholstery, I chose some kitchy Chinese fabrics left over from previous projects. I cut the panels so that they were larger than the pans themselves, knowing that I needed to stretch the edges on the back of the pan.
I made sure that the fabric was nice and tidy, ironing fabrics.
Step 2: Second Step - Attaching the Fabric
The next step was to attach the fabric to the metal of the pan. My husband wisely told me that PVA does not stick fabric to metal, so I need to find another glue. When I searched the internet, she suggested epoxy adhesives like Araldit but it's going to be hell to spread evenly. Spray adhesive was also mentioned, but we didn't have it at home, so I decided to give double sided tape in our house for a go. I made grids of patten on my pan so that there are many points of contact between the pan and the fabric. I also made sure that I put the tape carefully on the wheels. The tape was surprisingly strong and I would use the same method again to attach fabric to metal. However, if you know that your magnetic whiteboard may come into contact with liquid or get dirty easily, you may need to explore another method.
After puttying the pan as shown in the photo, I put the fabric on top and worked from the center of the pan, slowly pushing the fabric to the tape in order outward.
Step 3: Step Three - Finishing the Magnetic Board
After the canvas was glued nicely to the front, I used duct tape to stretch and secure the edges around the back of the tray.
I used some team 3M double sided wall stripes on the pot handles against the wall. I let these pans stay on the wall without make-up for several hours to allow the strips to settle (as suggested by the manufacturer).
Step 4. Step Four - Attaching the Makeup Magnets
I bought some cheap magnets from a thrift store. These cost $1 AUD for 8. I used a screwdriver to pry the magnets off my cheap plastic cases. The beauty of these magnets was that they were inserted into plastic sleeves with double sided foam tape. This meant that once they were squat, I just stuck on the magnets using their existing tape on the back of my cosmetic cases. For small cosmetics, I just used one magnet, for larger ones, I used two. Another idea I had for magnets was using spacer magnets, which you can buy by the meter. This can give you a flat finish on the back of your makeup since they are thinner than the ones I used. However, they might not be as strong as.
(When sticking magnets on cosmetic cases, don't stick them on the color name of that particular product. Otherwise, you may not know the name of your favorite shade when you want to redeem).
Step 5: Finished Project
And here is the finished product!
I'm quite happy with the result as it saves a large dressing table space and adds a bit of flair to this corner of the room.
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Very convenient to use. They are ideal for children at the stage of learning to read, help to "put" a hand, learn to write and draw. In the work they are used to create flowcharts, lectures and training. However, the cost of such boards is quite high and starts from 1500 rubles. Therefore, many people have a question: is it possible to make a magnetic whiteboard with your own hands?
Materials and tools
You will need:
- for measurements.
- Nails, hooks for attaching the board.
- Screwdriver and hammer.
- Melamine or other suitable type of plastic.
During operation, be extremely careful not to cut yourself when processing sheets.
Option one. transparent board
First you need to decide on the size of the future product. Depending on the purpose, the dimensions can be any. A magnetic marker board 90x120 centimeters is suitable for teaching schoolchildren, drawing small diagrams. Smaller children can make a smaller board. For placement in a large office and lectures, the dimensions of the product should be from 150 cm on the narrow side.
Melamine is sold in a building materials store various sizes. This material has a durable plastic coating on one side, which will ensure the durability of the product. It is better to choose sheets with a smooth surface, as they are easier to wipe off and the inscriptions will be easier to read.
If you want to make a clear whiteboard, you can purchase Plexiglas or Lexan. The latter option is thinner and more resistant to damage, weighs less, does not crumble and has a beautiful glossy finish.
If you decide to make a magnetic whiteboard with your own hands, please note that the material is very thin - only 6 mm thick. You can hang the board on the wall, but if you plan to move it, then you need to glue the backing sheet. To use magnets, it's best to choose a sheet of steel and add plywood or corkboard.
Please note that such a board should be placed on flat wall. If the surface is not flat enough, then the board will not be stable, it will not be very comfortable to write on it. Also, for convenience, you can attach to finished product a shelf for markers and rags.
Now stores sell glider boards, divided by day of the week. Automotive self-adhesive strips 3-6 mm wide are ideal for marking. If you make a magnetic whiteboard with your own hands, you can decorate it as you wish and depending on the purpose of use.
Option two. Board white magnetic marker
To make a whiteboard, you can take any smooth material and cover it with several layers of paint and varnish. But steel sheet is ideal. It is cheaper, heavier and magnets are well attached to it.
Cover the sheet with white paint in several layers. It is white that is used, since all the colors of the markers will be clearly visible on such a surface. Each layer should dry well.
After all layers of paint have dried, coat the sheet with a thin layer of clear gloss varnish. One of the best coatings again there will be melamine, which is not only solid, but also liquid.
Now you can frame the product, make shelves and hang the board. The shelf is made of a thin strip of metal and is attached to the bottom edge of the product. Framing will hide the uneven edges of the board.
- Wash the markers with a dry sponge or soft cloth. It is better to use special markers designed for whiteboards. Light streaks may remain on the surface after erasing the inscriptions. They are removed with alcohol. To avoid streaks, you can cover the surface of the melamine with wax, which is used for polishing cars.
- cutting material better with a saw for laminated materials or plywood.
- To facilitate sawing, you can draw a line with a ruler and a knife. Then the material will not break during the cutting process. To prevent crumbling and grinding, adhesive tape can be applied to the cut line.
By making a magnetic whiteboard with your own hands, you can save a lot. Such a product will fully meet your wishes and requirements.
An indispensable thing in the house is a magnetic board! She keeps memories of the life of a single family. How to make it with your own hands? We will tell you how to do this necessary thing on your own in just a few hours.
Materials and tools
Wooden frame;
Board or piece of hardboard;
Magnetic soil;
Finishing varnish;
Shells;
Sponge for grinding;
Acrylic white paint;
Decorative cord;
hot glue gun;
magnets;
How to make a magnetic board with your own hands: a step-by-step master class
1. We cover the surface of the hardboard or thin board with acrylic primer. We are waiting for the layer to dry properly.
2. We apply a primer with a magnetic effect on top of the usual primer. In total, you need to apply at least 5-6 layers of this primer with intermediate drying of each. If you apply fewer layers, then the magnets will not stick to the surface.
3. Let's start decorating the frame. Sand it with a sponge and remove dust with a damp cloth. Paint the frame white acrylic paint. To do this, it is best to use a flat synthetic or bristle brush.
4. We decorate the frame with a decorative cord, but first we tie a beautiful marine knot at one end of it. We fold the cord into a loop. The short end should be under the long one. We make the same loop, but in reverse side. In the process, we twist the loops together.
5. Fasten the sea knot to the frame with a hot glue gun. We also glue the cord, adjusting and fixing its tension in the process.
6. Also, you can easily make your own original magnets. To do this, simply glue small magnets inside the seashells.
You can make such a board of any shape and size, as well as any color. Many people use a special paint for Tikkurila blackboards - there are black, and green, and other colors.
The shape of the board can be made in the form of any animal - an elephant, for example, or in the form of a racing car. Interesting idea- a magnetic board in the form of a pillar for posting announcements and posters. The main thing here is that the color and shape fit the overall design of your apartment.
I would also like to note that now there is a special magnetic primer and magnetic paint on sale. Use them to make the process easier.
Video materials on the topic of the article
Magnetic board in a couple of hours:
Tutorial video - homemade marker board:
Another interesting master class on this topic:
Maybe you will also like a DIY magnetic stirrer:
Good day dear reader.
Today I would like to talk about how, in a few hours, having only 300 rubles in my pocket, and behind my back a bag of enthusiasm, make myself such useful thing like a marker board.
Rolling pictures - about three megabytes.
So let's get started
What we need:
- Glass from an old window
- Two cans of white spray paint - 110 rubles / piece
- Sandpaper with coarse grain
- Sandpaper with fine grain
- Bucket of water + detergent
- Acetone or solvent - 60 rubles / bank
- Rags
- Iron corners for furniture - 10 rubles / piece
- wooden blocks
- Screws (large ones with dowels for mounting on the wall, and small ones later it will be clear why) - 2 rubles = piece
- 2-4 hours time
(Not all are shown here, but the main set is shown).
Step one: Looking for glass
The first problem you may encounter is finding the right glass. I was lucky, I found a suitable one on the fifth floor of my house. I can advise you to look at a landfill or some construction site, there is a lot of this stuff. You can also order sliced the right dimensions glass in a glass workshop, but this will increase the final cost of the board by about seven hundred rubles.Step Two: Preparing the Glass for Painting
Did you find glass? Great, now it needs to be cleaned. On my ( window glass) in addition to dust and all kinds of dirt, there was also an old oil paint. Before painting, you should get rid of all this dirty trick (we do it qualitatively).We take detergent and water in our hands, clean the glass from dirt and dust. Then we take a piece of rag and acetone, and we begin to scrub off the old paint. Is it rubbed off? You're lucky! Wipe off all the paint and move on to the next step.
I was not so lucky, and the paint was not wiped off with acetone or solvent, well, we pick up sandpaper with fine grain and a rag soaked in solvent, now slowly, without particularly pressing, we begin to carefully walk over the paint with sandpaper, periodically wiping the place over which you are now working as a solvent.
Of course, this will leave small scratches, but after painting this will not be visible.
Somewhere in the middle of a rather long process, I realized that the sandpaper should also be wetted in a solvent, it helps a little.
Also, in this field, it is worth walking along the end sides of the glass with a sandpaper with a large grain in order to round them and avoid cuts during installation and use.
Step three: clean the glass
After there is no paint left on the glass, it should be thoroughly rinsed again in order to get rid of the remnants of acetone and various small nonsense that has stuck during the time of getting rid of the paint.This is necessary so that the paint lays down in an even layer and there are no hairs and dust particles left under it.
Step Four: Painting
Well, everything is quite simple, although it requires certain skills.We take a respirator (preferably), rubber gloves, a can of paint and go! The paint will be sprayed at a distance of about 10-15 centimeters, do not worry that the paint does not lie down evenly, poorly painted places and spots remain (we are not robots), we will paint in four layers!
Attention!: The main thing is that smudges do not form, it is better to underpaint one of the layers than to get a smudge, especially in the first two layers.
Spray paint dries quickly enough, about 7-10 minutes per coat.
When applying the final layer, you can slightly neglect the smudges if there are obviously not painted places left, and paint them better (you can apply not four but five, six or even seven layers to these places).
(First layer) 
(Third layer)
Step Five: Check
Painted? Everything seems to be fine, let's make sure.We turn the glass over with the unpainted side towards us and inspect it for poorly painted places.
If someone suddenly did not understand yet, the unpainted side of our future board is the front one! Yes, yes, it is her. The marker glides on glass much better, and also rubs off several times better. And we painted the glass so that the marker was clearly visible on a white background, and not on transparent glass.
Step Six: Preparing the Fasteners
There are a lot of options for attaching glass to a wall. You can use special fasteners that are sold in stores, you can drill holes in the glass and screw it to the wall. Or you can use ordinary furniture corners with small wooden blocks. Here I will tell you about the last option.We take a piece of wood and cut out several bars from it, so that when you screw the bar to the corner, there is a gap of about half a centimeter between the corner and the bar.
It is worth putting some kind of rubber gasket in this gap in order to protect the glass from direct contact with solid parts.
Unfortunately, I did not film the process of making fasteners, but when I saw finished structure you will understand everything.
We paint it to match the board, and go to the wall on which we are going to hang our board.
(Side view with gasket) 
(View from above)
Step Seven: Installation
If you managed to do everything I described above and not break the glass, break your arm, or screw yourself to the floor, then I think that you can drill a few holes in the wall and screw the corners to them without my help. I will only tell you about the pitfalls that await you.The first step is to attach the lower corners, so that later you can measure where to screw the upper ones. I did it this way: I screwed the two lower fasteners, put glass on them, and attached the upper fasteners, marking their location with a pencil. Then it's up to the little things.
Secondly, it is worth noting that it is rather problematic to insert a sufficiently large and fragile glass into such a structure from the side, so it is worth unscrewing the wooden bars at the upper fasteners, inserting the glass, and then returning the bars back.
Thirdly, I want to note that the glass recedes from the wall by about half a centimeter, which, with sufficient dimensions, makes the structure extra fragile. I solved this problem by gluing about ten half-centimeter rubber gaskets to the back of the glass. They do not allow the glass to sag in the center when we intensively wash our soaps from it.
Step Eight: Rejoice
Are you laughing? Nothing funny, for the first 20 minutes I wrote various nonsense on this board or simply did not take my eyes off it, the quality of execution, accuracy, the fact that it looks almost the same as its counterparts for several thousand and the fact that you made it yourself, delivers paradisaic delight.
by the way
As practice has shown, such a board can not only help you develop a project or think about a brilliant plan to take over the world, this is also a great thing at a party:
Game 1: We blindfold one of the participants, put him in front of the board, hand over the marker, whisper so that no one hears what needs to be drawn and in front, The rest guess.
Game 2: We draw on the board, for example: a donkey, a mora of a piglet and a man, a blindfolded player needs to draw a tail for a donkey, a heel (nose) for a piglet, a man, I won’t specify what we drew :), but you can nose.
Finally
For a month of use, the board showed itself perfectly, and fully paid off the time spent on its creation. I use it in almost every project I develop.Of the changes, I would make a little more elegant fasteners, these stick out very much.
I express my deep gratitude to the users taliban , Akson87 , pel , as well as all those who wished to remain anonymous, for the increase in karma and the opportunity to write this post.
I would be very happy if a photo of such a board made by someone from the community appears in the comments.
Suggestions for improving the board, as well as the readability of the post, I will be glad to see in private messages or comments.
Helpful from the comments
1. The user gunnzolder suggested using an ORACAL type film to give strength and get rid of fragments (in case of an accident), so that the fragments would not scatter around the room, but remain on the film.Thanks to them for the additions, I'm waiting for new proposals to improve the design.
