How to make a bed with your own hands: we make a bed at home by studying the drawings and instructions. How to make a bed with your own hands - from the choice of materials to the finished product Double bed with an installed lifting mechanism

In the season of gardens and holidays, you want to spend more time outdoors near your favorite beds, spruce forest and river. But you have to spend time returning to an apartment under the roof of a city high-rise building, because in garden house no comfortable beds , and yours living room without a bedroom and a night bed stands right next to dining table. Do not despair!

It all depends on how and where you want to use it. A single bed will suffice for your teenage child. beds . If you are of a large physique, then a comfortable sleep will come only on the "one and a half".

Are you married? So, you need a double from solid wood.

If there is enough space, then equip a pull-out bed under the podium, and place a cozy seating area with a coffee table on top, to which steps lead. In a small room where every square meter is expensive, build podium bed.

Built-in drawers for storing bed linen, clothes and other things.

For bed linen, place a tall, narrow drawer with a top hinged lid at the head of the bed. It is convenient to store pillows and blankets in it during the day, and at night - a cape.Assemble a beautiful decorative back and nail it to the wall above the headboard. Place night lights on it.

This will give your bed an aristocratic chic and comfort.

Choose a material and decide on a price

Metal is too expensive, requires a specially equipped workshop, welding machine, has a high specific gravity and poorly retains heat. good furniture you can assemble houses from lumber that is quite affordable at a cost without overpaying for a well-known brand.

Building a wooden bed with your own hands will cost less than buying a finished one in a store.

How to make a wooden bed with your own hands

Best for beds wood of medium (from 550 to 760 kg/m³) and high density - over 760 kg/m³. It wears out less, but is harder to process.

Optimum in terms of strength and ease of processing is pine.

IMPORTANT! Spruce is not suitable for load-bearing elements and bed legs . It breaks down quickly under stress.

For the base frame, select boards or timber from dense wood - larch, birch. The legs can be made from bars, and the mattress slats from cheap pine boards 2 cm thick. For decorative finishes fit thin spruce boards 0.5 cm. Carefully check the material for knots, bumps and roughness.

The fewer such defects, the easier it is to process it with a grinder.

Check the curvature of workpieces in a simple and effective way.

Raise it by one of the ends to eye level.
The edges going from the near to the far end should be a straight line in perspective - their curvature will be immediately noticeable.

ATTENTION! Be sure to draw. Consider the size of your mattress. They may not match the ones below. Inner space frames beds should be a little more. An allowance within 30 mm is allowed.

Immediately determine the presence and height of the legs.

Bed solid wood can be made without them by gluing cloth pads at the corners to protect the floor from scratches. For light singles and "one and a half" the optimal height will be 35-40 cm - you can vacuum and wash the floor or build a drawer for storing things and clothes.

ADVICE! Try to reinforce the joints with a furniture corner where possible.

Making a wooden bed with your own hands - maybe not the most simple solution, but the most profitable.

Entry level bed

Under a mattress measuring 80x190 or 90x200 cm, build a simple single wooden bed . It is suitable for an adult or teenager. For manufacturing you will need:

B rus for four legs with a section of 50x50mm;
D skewer 25x245 mm for side rails and footboard, 25x100 mm - for the manufacture of overlapping rails, 25x200 mm- for the headboard wall;
B rus with a section of 50x25mm for the manufacture of support beams for floor slats;

Bed materials.

In addition to good lumber, get:

Furniture corners or bed ties.
TO fixing screws 60 mm;
piping length 80 and a section diameter of 8 mm;
With wood glue;
M orilka or impregnation for wood;
BUT acrylic water varnish.

Materials required for work.

During the assembly of this and other variants beds use tools:

D relay and screwdriver;
H small hand planer;
R hand saw circular or furniture hacksaw;
W bodice machine or grinder;
H a few clamps;
TO sources for applying glue, varnish and stain;
R sliding joiner's square;
FROM building level;
M alka - a device for quickly marking cut corners;
FROM dull - a tool for fast and accurate sawing of workpieces at an angle of 45 and 90 °;
AND measuring tape.

Tools to help you get the job done.

Assemble the headboard first. From a bar with a section of 50x50 mm, cut out two legs up to 80 cm high. Drill 4-6 holes with a diameter of 8 mm and a depth of 30 mm in their upper part from the inside. From boards 25x200 mm, cut out two blanks 950 mm wide. From the ends, make holes up to 50 mm deep, matching those that you made on the legs.

Lubricate the parts with carpentry glue at the articulation points and fasten with dowels, carefully hammering with a mallet.

The footboard is made from boards 25x240x950 mm and two pieces of timber 400 mm high.

Fasten them in the same way.

The backs are fastened to the side walls 25x250x1900 mm with furniture corners or ties, aligned along the outer edge legs.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION! Ties will make it easy to disassemble the furniture when moving.

Along the lower edge of the right and left walls, using wood glue and clamps, support beams 25x50 mm are installed and length 190-200 cm. After drying, before removing the clamps, the beams are additionally screwed with self-tapping screws.

Assembling the side wall of the bed.

From boards 25x100 mm, make 12-14 transverse rails length 95 cm. From the left and right ends, they drill along through holes 3 mm in diameter at a distance of 12 mm from the edge. Lay them across the support beams at a distance of 35-50 mm and tighten the screws.

Final assembly of the bed.

IMPORTANT! All parts must be sanded before assembly. With a sliding square, check the "straightness" of the corners between the side walls and the backs beds . Using a building level, control the horizontal arrangement of the frame structural elements.

Treat the rough surface with a grinder. From the outer ribs of the backs and other parts to prevent wood chipping and improve appearance bevel can be removed. For longer service life, treat wood stain and dry. Cover with acrylic varnish.

As you can see, making a wooden single bed is not at all difficult.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION! To end faces legs when moving, they did not scratch the floor, you can glue felt pads to them.

Single bed

There are differences in the design of the backs, and its longitudinal axis is reinforced with a jumper with a leg that prevents the mattress from sagging.

It is made under a mattress with dimensions of 140x200 cm.

The head of the lorry consists of a wall and two legs . Make a wall from 2-3 boards length 1400 mm and 25 mm thick, reaching the desired height (30-40 cm). The legs are made of timber 50x50x800 mm. Fastening wall elements and legs made with tongues 8x80 mm, carpentry glue and reinforced with long self-tapping screws from 65 mm.

The footboard is assembled in the same way.

Side rails of the bed - one and a half should be located on the same level with the lower boards of the backs and have the same height.For variety, change the design of the backs beds . The middle board of the wall can be replaced with short vertical inserts from the same boards fastened with tongues.

Corners can be cut at the outer edge of the top board.

To do this, using a special tool - malki - make markings with a pencil. Malka consists of a handle pressed against the edge boards , a narrow metal plate with a longitudinal cutout, and a mounting bolt that allows you to fix the plate by setting the desired angle and length of the cut. In such a simple way, you will quickly draw symmetrical cut lines on the left and right ends. To prevent the hacksaw from leaving the line, press a wooden guide bar along the marking with clamps.

To give an interesting look to the bed, before varnishing, you can limit yourself to applying stain only to the surface of the legs and backs.

How to make a wooden double bed

Two adults is a serious weight, which requires a more thorough approach in the choice of material and assembly method. Make a sleeping bed out of solid wood.

Based on the standard double mattress dimensions 200 by 160 cm.

You will need the following materials:

B bar 50x50 mm for legs and bed frame, 3x3 cm - for support beams under the slats for the mattress;
D oski 20x100 mm for the transverse flooring under the mattress;
M metal furniture corner with a shelf width of 50 mm;
With self-tapping screws 40 and 65 mm long.

From the tools you will need an electric jigsaw, equipped with a file with large and widely spaced teeth.

First, we assemble the frame for beds with internal dimensions of 210x170 cm and a height of at least 15-20 cm. To do this, glue three or four pieces of timber, tighten with clamps. After drying, we cut in such a way as to obtain two blanks for the side sides length 220 cm each and two for the backs - 180 cm each.

In the same way, we assemble a longitudinal jumper 10 cm high and 210 cm long.

When assembling, use a "lock" type connection. To do this, on short workpieces, use a jigsaw to cut a notch, removing a segment from the middle length 5 cm. On long blanks of the side walls beds , leave the "thorn" by sawing off the top and bottom of 5 cm.

Apply glue to the notches and spikes and connect them at a right angle, checking with a sliding square.

Attach the longitudinal jumper with additional support in the middle using a metal corner with a shelf width of 50 mm, aligning it with the lower edge of the frame. In the corners, attach legs from a bar up to 40 cm high. Fasten with glue and self-tapping screws.

For strength, secure the connections with clamps.

For greater reliability, make legs beds from a thicker bar. To give them an elegant look, chamfer the inside at a 45° angle using a miter box. Do not overdo it - the area of \u200b\u200bsupport should be sufficient to withstand a lot of weight. When mounting the legs, use long countersunk head bolts with washers and wood glue.

At the bottom of each corner, place triangular inserts that serve to prevent deformation of the structure.

Glue beams of 3x3x210 cm timber along the long side walls.

Their upper face must be in the same plane with the upper face of the jumper.

From boards 20x100 mm make slats length 170 cm. They are laid and fixed across the lintel and longitudinal support beams with an interval of 3 cm.

The first and last rails should be adjacent to the front and rear walls of the frame, the rest should be evenly distributed between them.

IMPORTANT! To prevent the slats from squeaking, make them shorter than the inner width of the frame by 1 cm.

After assembly is complete, carefully sand the surface with a grinder or drill with a special nozzle using medium to fine grit sandpaper.Cover with stain, and after drying - with water-based acrylic varnish in several layers.

For double bed you can make a wall headboard from 2-3 boards length 25x100x1800 mm and 10-12 boards 25x100x450 mm. The first row that will be in contact with the back will go short boards . On the wrong side, it is necessary to equip hidden fasteners. At the appropriate places on the headboard, fasten metal plates with self-tapping screws, the free lower edge of which will be inserted into the grooves of the tires when hung.

The most reliable solution is to fix the busbars with dowels on the wall for wall cabinets- by the number of short boards.

If you do not like a hard headboard, assemble it with upholstery from the following layers:

D JV or plywood 1cm;
P orolon from 3 cm;
In atin;
ABOUT bib fabric with an interesting pattern;

From a piece of plywood or chipboard, cut out the base 45x180 cm.

Bevel the ribs and sand carefully so as not to tear the upholstery and batting.

From expanded polystyrene or foam rubber, cut a workpiece that matches in size and shape. Attach it to the chipboard and make several symmetrical holes for decorative buttons. Measure and cut the batting and upholstery to the shape of the blank with an allowance equal to the sum of the thicknesses of all the blanks, multiplied by two.

Make sure the holes are symmetrical.

Using glue or a special spray, glue the foam rubber to the base. Carefully spread the batting on the floor. Lay a piece of chipboard on it.

Bend the seamed edges, starting from the bottom, and nail to the chipboard with a furniture stapler.

Repeat this operation with upholstery. To prevent the fabric from wrinkling, iron it and tighten it properly using clamps screwed to the middle of the workpiece.

IMPORTANT! Don't skimp on stapler staples. Nobody will see them anyway.

Finally, sew on the sofa buttons. From the wrong side of the headboard, pierce the upholstery with a large "boot" needle and drag a thick coarse thread, thread it through the eye of the button and bring it back through the same hole.

Fix the ends of the thread with a stapler on the wrong side of the back.

Hang the upholstered headboard on the wall with the help of rails for wall cabinets.

A wooden bed with your own hands, made according to a personal project, will cost less than a purchased one.

Remember, the lack of extra money and the lack of living space are not an obstacle to the fulfillment of the desire to sleep comfortably.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself wooden double bed.

When it became necessary to add another bed in the country house, it was decided at the family council that it would be a double bed. The dimensions of 1.6 by 2.0 meters were determined for a reason, but because this is a very common mattress size (the same in a city apartment) and its purchase will not cause problems. And so it turned out later.

I will make a double bed according to my drawings and of course with my own hands. I will carry out the installation right at the installation site, having previously prepared all the details.
The article turned out to be voluminous detailed, so be patient.

If you are going to make such a double bed with your own hands, then below you will find details, drawings with dimensions, photographs, as well as a 3D model of this bed.

Since the project is quite difficult, before starting work, you need to prepare tools and materials.

Instruments

Circular saw.
Drill.
Set of drills.
Screwdriver.
Electric jigsaw or wood saw.
Sander.
Construction corner.
Clamps.
Roulette.
Pencil.
Putty knife.

materials

Bar 100*100*330 mm - 4 pcs. (bed legs).
Board 195*45*1690 mm - 4 pcs. (front - back frame board and headboard).
Board 95*45*1690 mm - 1 pc. (back of the bed).
Board 195*45*2000 mm - 2 pcs. (side boards of the frame).
Board 95*45*1400 mm - 2 pcs. (internal front and rear frame boards).
Board 95*45*1800 mm - 2 pcs. (inner side boards of the frame).
Board 95*45*1910 mm - 1 pc. (internal longitudinal frame board).
Lamel for a bed (820*63*8 mm curved plywood) - 24 pcs.
Latoderzhateli laid on for shooting (under the lamella 63 * 8 mm) - 48 pcs.
Birch dowel 10x50 (30pcs)
Steel corner 50 * 50 mm - 12 pcs.
Self-tapping screws 5 * 80 mm - 150 pcs. (for assembling bed parts).
Self-tapping screws 3.5 * 35 mm - 50 pcs. (for fastening steel corners).
Self-tapping screws 3.5 * 12 mm - 100 pcs. (for attaching lat holders).
Joiner's glue.
Wood putty.

According to materials:

As a result, I bought 2 boards 195*45*6000 mm and 2 boards 95*45*6000 mm. All boards are dry and planed.
I cut it to size on the spot in the store (for a fee), so all the materials fit into the trunk of my car with the rear seats folded down.
As a result, I "killed" two birds with one stone: they sawed the boards exactly to size and saved on shipping.
I had a piece of timber 100 * 100 mm after the construction of the barn, and that is why I decided to use it to make the legs of the bed. You can use any other material as legs.

Look for lamellas (lats), as well as lat holders, in specialized stores or online stores; they are rare in ordinary building hypermarkets and, if available, then in a small assortment.

By size:

Using the base dimensions right size mattress (I have 2000 * 1600 * 180 mm), you can change the dimensions to those that are convenient for you. For example, the height of the legs of the bed or the height of the boards of the sidewalls.
The only thing that is not worth it is to reduce the thickness of the inner longitudinal board (45 mm), which divides the bed in half, because. this value is determined by the seat of the lato-holders on one side and the other.

Bed assembly: diagrams and dimensions

So, if all the tools are prepared, and the materials are cut to size, then you can start assembling the bed. And let's start, of course, with the base frame.

Frame manufacturing

We start the assembly with the main boards and legs of the bed, fastening them together with self-tapping screws.

Using clamps, we fix the legs to the side boards. We drill holes in the boards - the diameter of the drill should correspond to the diameter of the self-tapping screw. Don't forget to countersink the holes for the screw head.

Side and center boards should be fastened 10 mm lower, because. they will be equipped with lato-holders with lamellas. The photo below shows why this should be done.

Before assembly, I smeared all the details with carpentry glue and for reliability (reliability is never superfluous), I reinforced all the corners in the joints of the bed frame with steel corners. You can see it in the photo below.

Under the middle board for reinforcement, I made and installed a leg-stand from a piece of timber. You can use any other design, for example, make boards from scraps or buy a finished cylindrical metal one if you find the right size.

Sanding and sanding the frame

Now that the bed frame is basically ready, you can begin to improve the appearance, namely, puttying the mounting holes, as well as other visible wood defects. To do this, use a special wood putty.

Apply the first layer of putty, trying to fill the holes as much as possible, leave to dry, following the manufacturer's recommendations on the package.

Important! Do not try to putty all the problem areas the first time - it still won't work. Correct puttying should be done in 2-3 stages, with intermediate drying and abrasive treatment.

Treat the dried putty with a sandpaper with a coarse abrasive, for example P80. I used orbital grinder with abrasive circles on a flypaper. It is possible to grind with a piece of skin on a flat bar, but this is more laborious.

After blowing off the remaining dust, apply a second layer of putty and repeat the drying-sanding stage.

At the end, we grind the entire surface of the frame to a pleasant smoothness. First with P80 abrasive and then with finer P120-180 abrasive. Of course there was a lot of dust...

While the putty dries, we do not waste time - you can start making the headboard, unless of course you need it. Below I will tell you how I did it.

Assembling the backboard

Since the double bed turned out to be quite heavy, I decided to make the backrest removable, in case the bed needs to be moved to another room.

For the headboard, you can take ready-made furniture board, but you can do it yourself. I bought two six-meter boards and from the leftovers, I just got three trimmings for making the back (they are higher in the list of materials).

I decided to splice three boards into a shield using dowels and glue. In order for the holes for the dowels to match perfectly, I applied the following “trick” - marking the centers of the holes on the edge of the board, I punched carnations without a hat into them.
So that all the cloves stick out at the same height, I hammered them with pliers as in the photo below.

Having combined the second board from above along the edges, he tapped on top with a mallet and received reciprocal dents on it.
To drill holes for the dowels to a certain depth, I glued red tape on the drill - so that it could be seen.

Having prepared the holes (clean from sawdust and cut off burrs), I put dowels on the glue (pictured below). Having smeared the mating edge with carpentry glue, with the help of a mallet I drive the second board into place.
The same operation must be done with the third board of the headboard.

Due to the lack of wide clamps (I will definitely have to buy), I am smart and with the help of a car jack (I used it for laying floors) I squeeze a shield of three boards in the doorway and wait a couple of hours until the glue dries.

After gluing, I send the shield for trimming and grinding. The most suitable place for this dusty work is the yard.

Having cut off the upper corners, I grind with an orbital, P80 abrasive. By grinding, I remove small steps at the junction of the boards and sharp corners.

The result is a pretty decent shield for the headboard.

It remains to put the back in place and fix it. To do this, I do the same operation with dowels, only without glue.

Installation of slats

Since the length of the lamellas exceeds the required one, they should be cut to the desired size.

Having put lato-holders on the ends of the lamellas, we fix them to the support boards with self-tapping screws 3.5 * 12 mm. The distance between the lamellas in my case is 92 mm.

3D model of a double bed

Click on the picture, wait for it to load and use the left mouse button to rotate the model. Rotate the mouse wheel to zoom in and out. Watch in full screen - icon in the lower right corner. Exit full screen - Esc key.
To fully view 3D models, you need to download the SkethUp viewer program from the official website (for free) and install it on your computer. You can download this model for viewing by clicking on the logo in the lower left corner of the viewing window.

Littleone 2009-2012 > All about children > From one to three years > The child strives to fall out of the crib. What to do?

View full version: The child tries to fall out of the crib. What to do?

Help plz!

wall_84

21.12.2010, 17:18

At home, my parents have a crib for their daughter when we visit them. When my dad saw that his daughter was trying to jump over the side, he immediately built it up. How to write more precisely. I can't take a picture, it's in another city. In general, he screwed two small sticks on the sides of this side, and screwed a long stick to these sticks, like from a mop. And as a result, the side turned out to be 8 cm higher. I wrote something stupid, but I hope you understand what I mean: 008:

wall_84

21.12.2010, 17:19

we nailed another plank to the crib, and stopped worrying - only the head peeked out of the crib :)

Wow, that's what I meant :)

21.12.2010, 17:28

our husband himself lowered the bottom even lower

We had to remove the side, after the son crawled out of bed on sewing machine who was on the side of the bed. Bed height at seam. the machines are the same as those of the sides. Down by the bed they put a mat from the sports complex, but the small one did not even think of falling on it. At the crib there was a transverse stick 10 cm above the mattress instead of the front wall. It was useless for us to build a bed at your age, because.

By this time, the son was already above the norm.

21.12.2010, 18:04

We also lowered the bottom and attached another rail, because. there was a bedside table next to the children's bed, and once I entered the room I saw how my son, having got out, was hanging on the bedside table! :010::010:

We lowered the side to the end. His bed is pushed close to ours. So when he got out, he ended up on our bed.

Thanks everyone for the advice and replies!

:flower:

21.12.2010, 18:15

3. How to lower the bottom even lower (in the sense of purely physical HOW?): 005:

husband just drilled holes below and screwed =)

Well damn, it's too easy! :flower:

the husband made the corners and lowered the bottom even lower (than it should be)! the second side was removed and moved to the bed ... and we sleep))) everyone is happy and the bed has become safe!

********************
Look, maybe you have even lower holes to lower the bottom? (we have a bed with a drawer at the bottom. in the lowest position, the bottom lies on the drawer practically).
Or maybe your mattress is high?: 008: Then buy a thinner mattress (there are 20 cm thick, or something, but there are 5 cm, in my opinion: 016:. In general, the thinnest coconut mattress for a crib I have in mind).

You can also, if your side is attached to iron pins (the pins are wrung out and the side rises / falls), lift it up, release these pins and, as it were, hang the side on them.: 008:

Thanks everyone for the advice and replies! :flower:
Now the following questions arose:
1. how to build up the side? Those. I basically understood the scheme, but then how do I put the child in bed?! :009:
2. If you remove the side completely, the child will not roll away in a dream?
and 3. How to lower the bottom even lower (in the sense of purely physical HOW?): 005:

The author, it is strange that the bottom is in the lowest position, the child is below 80 cm and may already fall out.: 008:
My daughter is 89 cm, the bottom is lowered to the very bottom - she cannot physically hang over the side.

I mean, how do you put a baby in bed?
you will not screw the bar across the crib, but along;)

I mean, I can hardly reach her to put her in the crib: so I changed her clothes for bed, sang a song and I have to put her in the crib ... but the bottom is far away 🙂

I don't understand... :009: I thought it would come MUCH later, but apparently we have a relatively high mattress (I think it's about 20 cm)... + she stands on her tiptoes.
And about the pins - thanks! Must try :flower:
I think the best option in your case is to drill holes below and buy a thinner mattress. Although, for starters (if it's a pity to spoil the bed), just a new thin mattress is enough.;)

About the pins, it won't work. I have experimented now. She leaned into the bed through this side (respectively, pressed on it) and the pins jumped off the very top of the bed - the side fell and fixed, as it should, in the highest position.

thanks :flower:

21.12.2010, 19:20

Mine was also outweighed ... Once I didn’t keep track and he fell, thank God successfully, but now he himself is not outweighed.

23.12.2010, 17:03

we also have this problem. He also seems to be tall enough to sleep in a crib, but he pulls himself up in his arms ...

Brrrunka

23.12.2010, 17:37

And we did not redo anything, just did not keep the child in the crib while awake. At that age, our baby only slept in the crib. That is, if he needed to look at something on the floor and he bent over, I just took him out, let him see enough and put him back.

23.12.2010, 17:43

we drilled new holes and lowered the bottom.
now one head sticks out)
removing the side is not yet an option, although the son knows how to get off the bed, he constantly spins in a dream

23.12.2010, 20:54

Mine managed to fall out of the crib upside down when she was 1 year and 1 month old, I don’t know how, she pulled herself up, leaned over and forward. Good luck. I don't seem to be trying to do that kind of trick anymore. But at 1.3, I took off the regular side board and put a low one from Ikea, and no matter how she spins, crawls and crawls in the night, she never fell out of the crib. At the same time, she could already get out on her own if necessary.

Please help with advice!
Mattress on the bottom position in the crib. Daughter (less than 80 cm tall) sleeps in sleeping bag(from Ikea). She began to get up in the crib and hang over the side. It's not like she wants to get out of her crib... She just looks around. But if it bends a little, it can fall head down! :001:
I found here a lot similar to those in which it is advised to switch to older beds or remove the slats (or the entire side), but my child only sleeps in a bag and crawls in his sleep! Therefore, I think that in this situation, she will generally spend the night on the floor: 005:
Help plz!

at 1.2 the son leaned over the side and fell out. It's good that it's on the bed next to it, and not on the floor.
immediately the side was removed and a low side from Ikea was put in its place (the son knew how to get off the bed)

even if the child crawls in a dream (and the son crawled) - it won’t fall out anywhere, the side is almost the entire length of the bed and is quite high.

Library

How to increase the height of the bed

When bed rest, we advise you to make the bed higher. It will be more convenient for you and easier for the one who cares for you: your back will not be so tired.
Here are three options for how to increase the height of the bed.
If you are undergoing a course of physical therapy, you should check whether the bed can withstand the additional load.

How to increase the height of a metal bed

Since it is difficult to drill and attach metal or wood to a metal bed, it is easier to put the legs of the bed in small wooden boxes. This stand method can be used for any bed, especially if you need to give the bed its original height.

Material

Choosing a crib

Base - plywood 9 mm x 90 mm x 90 mm, 4 pcs.
B. Smaller sides - plywood 9 mm x 72 mm x 150 mm, 8 pcs.
C. Large sides - plywood 9 mm x 90 mm x 150 mm, 8 pcs.
D. Churban - strong wood, area corresponding to the stand, x required height.
E. Forged wood screws No. 8 x 25 mm.
Fastening with glue and screws.

Operating procedure

1. Drill holes for base A and sides C.
2. Drill auxiliary holes in sides B with a diameter equal to half the diameter of the screw.
3. Attach sides B to sides C.
4. Attach assembled sides B and C to base A.
5. Sand and paint to match the bed or coat with impregnation.
6. Cut the logs to the correct size.

Wooden coasters for wooden beds

This way to increase the height of the bed is simple and effective, but take the time to choose the material. The wood must be well dried so as not to crack under the weight of the bed itself and lying on it. Glued plywood is suitable for this purpose.

Material

A. Extensions - well-dried wood, diameter approximately equal to the diameter of the legs of the bed, length - the height to which the bed needs to be raised + 150 mm, 4 pcs.
B. Nuts and bolts - approximately 5 mm, 8 pcs. C. Washers - as large as possible so that the wood does not split when tightening the nuts.

Operating procedure

1. Drill holes in the bed legs and extensions A for the bolts.
2. Bolt the extensions to the legs of the bed.
3. Paint to match the bed or coat with impregnation.

Metal stands for wooden beds

An angle steel or angle aluminum stand is very durable. It can be installed quickly.

Material

A. Extensions - sheet iron or sheet aluminum, dimensions are calculated in the same way as the dimensions of a wooden extension, 4 pcs.
B. Nuts and bolts - about 5 mm in diameter, 16 pcs.
C. Large washers - 32 pcs.

Operating procedure

1. Round off all corners of the edge of each extension A.
2. Drill the bed legs and extensions A to match the nuts.
3. Bolt the extensions to the bed.
4. Paint to match the bed.

It is very difficult to create all the conditions for a comfortable life in a small house. Kitchen-dining room, bedroom, bathroom, workplace- zones without which we cannot imagine modern house. But even in a small area, you can not only place everything you need, but also do it in style!

main paths rational use there are practically only three spaces in a small house:

development of space in height - the creation of a second tier;
installation of folding multifunctional furniture;
maximum use of corners.

Here are some prime examples of creative approach to efficiency increase space of a residential building with a small area.

Raising beds overhead

Most of the space in the house, as a rule, is occupied by the bed. And this statement becomes especially obvious when the bed comes off the floor, releasing several scarce square meters. The bed can be raised on racks, or you can hang it from the ceiling!

Creating the second tier

If the height of the room allows, then it is advisable to raise not only the bed, but also the whole tier above the floor, creating almost a second floor.

We use folding compact and multifunctional furniture

In this matter, the fantasy of furniture designers and designers has no boundaries: wardrobe-bed-bathroom, shelves-TV-wardrobe-bed, bed-cabinet-wardrobe, sofa-2-story bed, etc.

Use the corners of the rooms to good use

The corners of the rooms are usually empty or occupied by something completely useless, while this is one of the most capacious places in the house in which you can place, for example, a corner desk, TV table or even special corner drawers.

Modern furniture stores never cease to amaze with the variety of bed models, as well as their functionality. But for various reasons, it is not always possible to choose what you need. In this regard, there are a large number of options for how to make a convenient and practical place for sleeping and relaxing with your own hands.

Model overview

At home, you can make almost any kind of furniture. Before making this or that type of bed, you need to decide on its model. Depending on the purpose, a drawing is designed and materials are selected. regular bed own production can be completed with built-in drawers for storing bedding or seasonal clothes. This is very convenient, since the room is not cluttered with furniture to place things, thereby leaving free space for living.

Such beds are not difficult to make, the main thing is that all the details are of high quality processed and polished, otherwise the boxes will get stuck in special openings.

Consider the main models:

One of the most popular beds bunk. This type of bed allows you to save space and comfortably accommodate two people at once. As a rule, such beds are bought in a children's room. The case must be durable and of high quality to avoid accidents.

If there is not enough space in the bedroom, then an excellent solution would be to make a transformer bed or wardrobe bed. This model in the daytime can perform a functional load, and in the evening turn into a comfortable place to sleep and relax. These beds can be different sizes and equipment. The most important thing when making them yourself is to choose a reliable and correct lifting or folding mechanism so that there are no distortions and creaking of furniture when it is used for its intended purpose.
Another option to save space would be to make a podium with retractable bed. One and the same place can combine several zones. At night it is a place to sleep, and during the day it is a workspace.

For rooms such as a loggia or living room, suitable armchair-bed. Such furniture is convenient in that it can be used every day, it does not take up much space, and if guests arrive, it can be easily transformed into a full-fledged sleeping place. It will also be pleasant that the independent production will not take a lot of effort, time and money.
The creative idea is to create hanging bed. The design itself consists of a frame and a frame with a lamella. When installing it, you need to have enough free space, since during use it will swing, and if there is little space around, then there is a risk of waking up from a collision with a wall or furniture. For manufacturing, preference should be given to light, but durable materials.

Bringing some magic and fairy tales to the bedroom will help "flying" or "floating" bed. It is unique in that it has a cantilever fastening system, so the footboard is without support, thereby visually it seems that the bed is hovering in the air. Very often fastened from below LED backlight to support the idea of flight. In addition to a soft mattress, such a place to relax is suitable for both children and adults.

If it was decided to make a bed on your own, then it is better not to be limited by the standards and come up with an unusual and creative model, saving a good amount on this.

Beds can be for both children and adults. Children can make sleeping places in the form of a car, a house or an outboard ship, it all depends on imagination and funds.

For babies under 5 years old, it is better to make a crib with a limiter, since in a dream many of them actively move and sometimes fall to the floor. The limiter can be attached separately and over time it can be removed. As a rule, it is made of metal, wood or plastic. It is easy to sew a cover on it so that the child does not touch the “bare” metal or wood.

Every child's dream is to have their own little house, where he can play and have fun, but it will be even more interesting to have his own house-bed. Such a bed has many options for designs and models:

In the first case(and simpler) a regular bed box is made, and 4 beams with a roof body are attached to the support rails on top without any additions. All parts are processed and sanded with high quality, if they are made of wood, so that the child does not scratch the surface of the skin. A light canopy is hung on top of this entire structure. As a night light, the LED strip along the contour of the base of the roof of the sleeping house will look original. Thus, a beautiful and comfortable bed is obtained.
In the second case the house is being made in more detail, namely with a full roof and a facade that will serve as a side of the bed. This option is suitable for bunk beds, where there is a real staircase, along which the children will go to visit each other.

When making a bed for adults You can experiment with form and function. A round bed will look very interesting. However, it will be difficult to execute it with your own hands, so if there is little experience in this matter, then it is better to order parts from a professional carpenter or carpenter.

When you want to make a big bed, but there is not enough money, designers suggest using wooden pallets. For a double bed, you need 6-8 pallets, which are fastened together in a rectangular shape, and a regular mattress is placed on top, and the bed is ready.

If the bedroom is small, then it will be possible to create an ergonomic and compact sleeping place with your own hands. It is best when the bed is with a sliding mechanism that will allow you to assemble it into a small and compact sofa after sleeping. Or equip a sleeping bed drawers, which will fit bedding, seasonal items or other items that are rarely used.

Very often they make a floating bed with panels built into the wall that act as a table. They can accommodate night lamps or medium-sized floor lamps.

The headrest deserves special attention. It can carry both semantic and decorative load. In most cases, the head of the bed is used as a decorative element that complements the space with an unusual shape or ornament. In the second case, functional, it is better to make it soft and voluminous so that it is convenient to lean on it when reading or watching a movie.

Dimensions

When making your own sleeping bed, it is better to adhere to certain standards. In this case, it is much easier to choose a mattress and bedding (sheet, blanket, duvet cover, etc.).

Sleeping places are divided into three categories: single, double and one and a half:

Single beds designed for comfortable sleep of one person. Her standard sizes in width - 80-100 cm, and length - 180-190 cm. The length and width parameters can be adjusted to your own height and body volume. The length should be 15-20 cm longer than the height of the sleeper, and the width is calculated from the average thickness of a person at the shoulders plus 25-30 cm on each side.

One and a half bed is an intermediate option. It can fit 2 people with medium volumes or two children. Regular sizes: width - 120 cm, length - 200 cm. There are "extra" models, where the width is increased by 20-30 centimeters.

double bed- This is a large large-sized bed, which provides a comfortable rest for two people at the same time. The width of the bed varies from 160 to 200 cm. The length is most often 200 cm. There is a variety - a king-size bed or, in a simple way, a triple bed. Its width is more than 200 cm. It is designed for sleeping parents with a small child or for tall and large people.

To make a bed of optimal size, it is necessary to take into account the individual characteristics of the organism. If the sleeping person is actively tossing and turning, then the width of the bed must be made larger so that he does not fall to the floor during sleep.

Actual styles

For a comfortable stay, it is best to make a bed for the general style of the room. Otherwise, a resonance in space will be created. In addition, the selection should be carried out depending on the size of the room itself. There are several actual styles that can be divided into 3 large groups: for small bedrooms, medium and large.

small bedrooms

For such rooms, a bed in the style of Hi-tech, Minimalism, Loft, East Asian direction is suitable:

Beds in style High tech distinguished by their originality and interesting design, which is most often complemented by practicality and functionality. These sleeping quarters are unusual shapes and modern look. Be sure to have the correct geometric shapes and shiny surfaces. The dominant colors are pure and life-affirming colors: white, yellow, red, green, etc.

Sleeping bed in style Minimalism distinguished by their simplicity and composure. A distinctive feature is ergonomics, simplicity of forms and the absence of pretentious and unnecessary details. As a rule, the design implies light and solid colors: white, grey, milky.

East Asian direction in the style of beds has many features. The most obvious is earthiness, namely the small height of the bed relative to the floor. The form has clear lines, sometimes there is a canopy.

Not so long ago, at the beginning of the twentieth century in the United States, an unusual interior style appeared called Loft. This design appeared when the premises were not originally built for living space. It was specially converted into a residential area. Usually these are the upper floors of factories or workshops. The apartments are distinguished by their scale and simplicity of design.

Under the influence of such premises, designers began to create a whole series of furniture (armchairs, tables, beds, etc.) dedicated to this style. As for the beds, they stand out for their simplicity and neutrality in colors. A distinctive feature is also the presence of "rough" elements. For example, there may be metal rivets or artificial scuffs on the headrest.

Medium sized rooms

For medium-sized bedrooms, Provence, Country or Modern style beds are suitable:

Style Provence subconsciously perceived as something airy, light and unpretentious. Such beds are suitable for connoisseurs of classics and general sophistication in the interior. Sleeping beds have impeccably regular and clear forms, which are combined with the airiness and bulkiness of bedspreads and pillows. The main highlight is the headboard (it should be beautiful and soft), as well as the quirkiness of the supporting legs (they can be curved, twisted or carved). The predominant colors are pastel shades.

The most practical and comfortable bed styles include the style Country. Sleeping place squat and has massive forms. Materials for its manufacture are taken only natural, namely pine or oak. Sometimes meet decorative elements from metal, for example, on the headboard or legs, or fabric covers are sewn in khaki, saffron shades, swampy or earthy.

Direction called Modern distinguished by its roundness and smoothness of forms. Modern style involves mixing materials in harmonious proportions, such as wood and metal, plastic and textiles. Colors can be completely different.

Large spaces

A large room allows you to place beds of any style, but beds in the Baroque, Empire, Rococo and, of course, Classicism styles will give a special sophistication:

Baroque sometimes called pretentious, as it implies an abundance of decorative elements, gilding, rich and dense materials for upholstery of the bed. In most cases, the bed has a large and massive headboard, which can be complemented by stucco. Color also matters a lot. Usually these are shades of blue, silver, pistachio, gold, pink, red.

Empire is one of the unique styles that combines luxury and aristocratic modesty. For the manufacture of beds in this vein, only the highest quality and most expensive materials are taken, such as mahogany wood, bog oak or walnut. The size of the bed is also impressive. Forms have straight and clear silhouettes without pomposity, as in the Baroque. For upholstery fabrics with deep and rich colors are used (indigo, pure grey, emerald, purple, etc.).

The style also boasts its softness and comfort. Rococo. The shapes of the bed are smooth, without sharp corners. Decorative elements are presented in gilding, textured carvings and the perfect smoothness of the lacquered elements of the main bed frame. The colors of the style are soft, close to pastel colors.

As designers say, if there are no ideas for choosing a style, then there is nothing better. classics. Such furniture is distinguished by its reliability, durability and functionality.

The body is made without frills, correct form. Materials for the manufacture of beds are taken high quality and durable. It can be wood or metal. The color palette is quite restrained, but can include bright, but not flashy decorative elements. There are white, black, gray and other pastel shades.

Currently, an increasing number of designers and craftsmen offer not to follow strictly one direction, but to correctly combine them with each other, which will combine the simplicity of forms, elegance and convenience at the same time.

Selection of materials

Proper selection of materials for self-manufacturing of a bed is one of the main points in the creation of furniture. As a rule, its choice depends on the calculated amount and the chosen design:

The most common material is wood. In order for the bed to serve for a long time and not spoil your health, it is better to give preference to pine, oak or ash. Yes, wood is expensive, but it will repay with its durability and environmental friendliness. In addition, the frame will be quite strong and light. The only drawback of wood is its susceptibility to air humidity. If the bars are not treated with stain or varnish, then there is a risk that they will begin to rot or become moldy. In the case when the bed is constantly in an unventilated room with dry air, the wooden product may dry out and crack.
If there is not enough money for solid wood, then it can be replaced with plywood or fiberboard - MDF. Such a bed usually lasts about 10 years. Thanks to synthetic inclusions, chipboard does not grow moldy, and insect pests do not start in it.

Many people do not choose this material because of its unnatural appearance, the lack of a beautiful texture and pattern. Also, plywood contains a small percentage of formaldehyde resins, which evaporate when the material is heated or dampened. In this regard, you should not make a crib for a child from MDF panels or plywood.

Nowadays, metal-framed beds are making a comeback. This material has long been valued for its distinctive characteristics, such as strength, reliability, resistance to temperature fluctuations and the ability to create original shapes and patterns. The material itself is harmless and does not exude unpleasant and toxic odors. But at the same time, it has several drawbacks: a large weight of the structure, tactile discomfort and injury risk. IN winter time the body of such a bed will be cold and uncomfortable if you touch it. Moreover, metal in its structure solid material, and if you hit it, it will leave a bruise or hematoma.

To lighten the weight of the bed, you can make the body of metal profile pipe. These are hollow iron tubes that are easily welded to each other. They are round, oval and square.

In order to save and sell the remaining materials, you can get an unusual bed. from the remains pvc pipes or polypropylene(if, for example, the bathroom was being renovated). It is better to make a bed for children from such material, since under the heavy weight of the mattress and adults, the frame can crack or deform. If, nevertheless, the choice fell on them, then it is better to give preference polypropylene pipes. They are more durable and rigid in their characteristics. To assemble such a bed, it does not take much time and effort, you just need to make the main box and cross rails so that the weight of the sleeping person is correctly distributed around the entire perimeter. Experimental designers are advised to make each side of the main body of several rows of tubes, so the design will be more durable and reliable.

How to take measurements?

One of important points in the manufacture of the bed is the measurement of the details and the space where it will be located. The scale of the future bed can come from 2 parameters: the size of the room and the dimensions of the future mattress. The bed should be proportionate to the outside space and complement the room concisely. Therefore, if the room is large, then you can afford large and bold sizes.

As for the dimensions of the mattress, it is better to proceed from case study. A standard double mattress is 2 meters long and 1.4-1.8 meters wide. The height depends on the weight of the sleeping person - the heavier it is, the thicker the coating should be.

After the measurements of the “soft” component have been made, it is necessary to start arranging the dimensions of the body part of the bed. The inside must match the size of the mattress. If its width is 1.4 meters, then the width of the body should be 16 mm more on each side so that there is a small gap for comfortable placement of the mattress. Accordingly, the dimensions of the headrest will be calculated as follows: 1400 mm + 16 + 16 = 1432 mm. The length of the side parts is also calculated: 2000 +16+16 = 2032 mm.

The height of the bed is calculated from the individual parameters of a person according to the standard that the bed from the floor should end approximately at the height of the knees. The mattress should “peek out” by about 10 cm to protect the legs from hitting the sofa body. The height of the headboard can be taken arbitrarily, but it must also be proportionate to the overall part of the bed. For example, if the bed level is 600 mm, then the total headboard height will be 1 meter, i.e. + 400 mm.

Based on the above examples, you can set the following dimensions of the bed and the number of parts for its body:

Headboard: length - 1432 mm, height - 1000 mm (1 piece);
Opposite wall: length 1432 mm, height - 600 mm (1 piece);
Side parts: length - 2032 mm (2 parts). The height of these parts depends on the material used and the model of the bed. As a rule, the height is 200-150 mm.

It is very important not to forget to calculate the inner lining of the rails, on which the lamella or a solid sheet of chipboard will be laid. Long side parts should rest against the upper short ones. The top and bottom rails should be equal to the dimensions of the mattress, namely 1400 mm long and 50 mm wide, the side panels - 1968 mm by 50 mm, since you also need to subtract the width of the small rails against which they abut (32 mm). Each item is required in duplicate.

Thus, the main body of the berth is calculated. Next, you need to calculate the length and height of the internal racks, which will additionally support the stacked lamella and mattress. It is very simple to do this, they will be equal to the main height of the bed (600 mm), and in length they should correspond to the inner upper or lower support rail (1400 mm).

After all measurements and calculations, you can begin to implement the resulting drawing.

Step by step instructions

In order to independently make a high-quality bed at home, it is necessary to maintain a certain stage and sequence. The following will describe the phased construction of a standard double bed. For its basis, you will need high-quality wood, for example, pine.

To work with wood, you will need a tape measure, a construction pencil, self-tapping screws measuring 65 and 40 millimeters, metal corners for fastening 45-50 mm wide, a Phillips screwdriver, a hammer, a small saw, sandpaper, wood glue or PVA.

Before buying wooden bars, it is necessary to draw up an exact drawing indicating the scale and future holes for fasteners.

How to develop a drawing?

In order to draw a future bed in detail, you need a sheet of paper (you can take it with a millimeter line for convenience), a pencil and a ruler. The first thing you need when developing is to decide on the model of the bed and the mattress under which the frame will be assembled. If you want to create a non-standard and unusual bed, you can also make a mattress yourself. A simple model of a rectangular sleeping bed is easy to design.

The drawing must be made in triplicate: top, side and front view.

In the top view, the width and length of the body along the inner walls are usually noted. The data directly depends on the dimensions of the selected mattress. In the figure, it is necessary to immediately mark the intended thickness of the wooden bars, as well as their number. It is better to calculate in millimeters, since the more accurate the calculations, the better the furniture will turn out. For convenience, the craftsmen mark with strokes the places where the fastening corners will be located or the screws will be screwed in.

Side panels, as a rule, consist of two boards connected to each other with dowels - these are rounded cylindrical rods about 1.5 cm in height and no more than 0.5 cm in diameter. Next comes a persistent transverse bar, and on the sides there are 2 bars with holes for self-tapping screws or bolts for connecting to the front panels. It is worth designating the places of gluing and fastening. In the front view, namely the headboard, you need to indicate its height, width and the number of boards needed for its construction.

With the help of a clear and correctly executed drawing, you can calculate the number of required boards and fasteners for them, from here you will immediately see the required amount for the project.

If the drawing fails, then there is always the opportunity to contact furniture showroom or a workshop where they can tell and show how to make it.

For a double bed you will need: for the main box and legs - a beam 50 by 50 mm with a length of 2200 mm from pine - 15 pieces. A pine board is also needed (2000 mm by 100 mm with a thickness of 20 mm) in the amount of 22 pieces.

After collecting all the basic materials for work, you can start assembling. If the boards are not processed, then you need to cover the wood with wood stain in advance so that it does not mold and deteriorate during operation.

How to assemble?

The standard main box has a height of 150 mm and the width of the timber should be 50 mm. In this regard, you need to glue 3 bars together. Next, the procedure is as follows:

The surfaces to be joined are treated with glue and compressed, it is advisable to put a load on top for better adhesion of materials. You should wait a day until it dries completely. The resulting part must be measured again and the irregularities removed after gluing.
For a complete frame you need: 2 side boards (length 2200 mm), another board (2100 mm) for the longitudinal jumper in the middle, as well as 2 wooden panels for the headboard and end part (1610 mm long each).

For a reliable and durable connection of the corners, a small fragment is sawn off at the edges of the bars- 40-50 mm. As a result of this, the corners are firmly fastened, but the parts still need to be greased with glue. Parts must also be strongly compressed or pressed down with a load until the glue is completely cured.
There is another way to connect the bars in the corners, namely, internal gluing of cut-to-size parts. To do this, you must first assemble a rectangular frame on the floor. Next, the end parts are smeared with glue and pressed with force from both ends of the side panels. After that, the bars are screwed to each other with self-tapping screws for a reliable joint. Do not forget about the evenness of the corners so that the bed does not have bevels.
After the main box is glued and fixed, you can proceed with the installation of the internal jumper rail. It is needed in order to give greater rigidity and strength to the product. It should be fastened exactly in the middle, so the center of the box must be found with reverse side, not from the outside.

The correct position of the jumper is considered when it exactly coincides with the height and level of the future bed.

Following the installation of the central rail, you can begin to mount the thrust bars 150 mm long. They will hold the center jumper in a level position. If for some reason these stops were not included in the drawing, then they can be replaced metal corners.
When the frame is completely ready and fixed, it's time to attach the legs if they are in mind. They are made from the same wooden cuts 50 by 50 mm of the same length. The length is selected according to the person who will sleep on this bed. It is worth taking into account the fact that the higher the legs, the more unstable the sleeping place will be, but optimal height allows you to quickly and easily clean under it.
The supports are first attached to the glue in the corners, and then fixed with self-tapping screws. Masters advise to strengthen the legs with metal corners for greater reliability, as well as to make additional ones in the middle of the side panels for greater stability and even distribution of the weight of the sleeping person. After the glue dries, you can put the body with legs in the normal position.

Internal slats are attached to the sides of the bed body at the place previously marked on the drawing. 30-35 mm thick. They will serve as the future support for the beams, which, in turn, will support the mattress. The supports are placed in such a way that they are flush with the center partition.
The next step is to install the support cross beams. It is very important that they do not lie close to the side walls, as this can cause a squeak to appear when you lie down on the bed. Therefore, there should be a small space - 5 mm, which will ensure their free location. The bars themselves should not be placed and fastened close to each other. Ideally, the distance between the planking boards should be 30-50 mm. For reliability, the transverse bars are fastened in 3 places with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws (so that there are no cracks, it is better to drill holes for fasteners in advance).

After all the details are installed, it's time to remove the errors that appear during operation. These can be glue residues, cracks that need to be puttied or a new timber installed, or burrs to be sanded. This item should not be skipped, since the aesthetics of the view and the safety of the sleeper depend on it. If the originally purchased wood was not sanded, then it must be made absolutely smooth using a grinder or ordinary sandpaper.
A perfectly turned bed should be swept away from sawdust and small chips. Next, you can already varnish. To do this, it is better to use a brush or a special sprayer. Most importantly, during the process, follow safety rules and wear a respiratory mask so as not to inhale the fumes. It is necessary to apply layers of varnish on both sides, as it protects the wood from bark beetles and mold. Apply the next layer only after the first has completely dried.
In the process of drying the bed, there is time to make the headboard. She may have different forms and sizes. Headboards are semi-circular, rectangular, slatted or absent altogether, but with it the bed looks more concise and familiar. It is very easy to make it. You can take 2 or 3 bars, glue them together, put them under a press and wait for them to dry completely. Then the wood is processed, like the rest of the bed, and attached to the main box using self-tapping screws or the same PVA glue.

Sometimes the headboard is screwed or hung on hooks above the bed., this is an element of decor. In this case, you can carve an unusual pattern on a single piece of wood to order. This headboard will be a wonderful and unusual addition to the bed.
When all the parts are installed and the varnish is completely dry, it's time to put the mattress in its place.. After that, the bed is ready for further use. If you want a wooden bed to be original and unusual, then an interesting idea would be to sheathe it with fabric.

How to cover with fabric?

The very process of sheathing and decorating the bed is not complicated, but it requires accuracy and accuracy of calculations. Before you start the process, you need to decide on textiles and the type of covering.

There are several types of fabrics for decorating a sofa or bed:

Flock. This coating has been known for a long time and has a good reputation. The material is a non-woven fabric with a pile of acrylic, viscose, cotton, etc. applied to it. The fabric is very durable, does not fade in the sun, and is also easy to clean.
Velours. The material is very pleasant to the touch, has a vertical pile structure. Its composition is dense and durable. Such upholstery will last a long time and will please with its practicality and price.
Chenille. Such a fabric is created by interweaving the pile between the threads. Pile is acrylic, polyester, viscose or cotton. According to its characteristics, the material is very high quality and durable, it will give the bed an expensive look. The fabric does not attract dust and is easy to care for.
Jacquard. This is a very beautiful, dense and unusual material. As a rule, it has a complex pattern, which is made with silk threads. The fabric is multi-layered, therefore wear-resistant and holds the given shape well.
Artificial leather. Modern leatherette, which is no worse in quality than genuine leather. The material will pleasantly please with its price, variety of embossing and colors. Any dirt can be easily removed with a damp cloth.
Leather. Leather cloth is very expensive and has a number of features. It must be wiped frequently with a damp towel and a special wax applied, otherwise the skin will crack. Otherwise, it is a high-quality and durable material.

After the bed has been assembled, you can proceed to its sheathing:

Required for work decorative fabric and simple (for internal parts), foam rubber or batting, specialized glue for furniture, scissors, a construction stapler, a hammer, decorative nails, tape measure.
It is best to start work from the head, if it exists. It must be separated from the common body of the bed. Next, a 5-centimeter foam rubber is taken and cut out according to its shape. The process itself is not easy, so it is better to use a carpenter's knife. The finished cut is attached to the wood with glue. You need to apply it not on the foam rubber, but on the front part wood panel. For greater strength, it is better to fix the edges with a stapler.
While the glue dries, you can cut the selected upholstery fabric. It is very important that there are 10-15 cm allowances on each side. Fastening the material should be started from the lower corners with a stapler, since then it will be easier to level the fabric over the entire surface area. Once the fabric is taut, it's time to drive in the decorative nails so the staples aren't visible.
When the decoration of the headboard is over, it's time to start the main body. To begin with, strips of foam rubber are being prepared. They should be the same size outer sides bed frame. They are also attached with glue. Foam rubber is not attached at the headboard attachment point. The frame can be sheathed with technical or decorative fabric. The material is gradually stretched and attached using the same stapler.

If it is a technical fabric, then cover must be worn on top. It must be sewn with a zipper or Velcro, so that it does not slip and is easy to put on.
When the main box is lined with fabric, you can attach a headboard.
The above is an example of a simple decorative fabric covering, but there are other ways of textile upholstery. The most popular and fashionable today is the carriage bed screed. As a rule, only the headboard is decorated in this way, but the entire bed can be used as well.
Required for work foam rubber from 5 cm thick, a plywood frame in the shape of a headboard, carpentry glue, scissors, upholstery fabric, decorative buttons or carnations, 2 thick needles, a drill with a round nozzle and a stapler.
The first step is to make markings on the foam in the form of identical squares, rectangles or rhombuses. After that, it is glued to plywood. At the junction points of rhombuses or squares, it is necessary to do round holes using a drill. The diameter should be approximately 10 mm.
On top, sheathing material is applied. Next, needles are taken, and with their help, decorative buttons are sewn through the fabric and holes and at the same time neat folds are formed, which are fixed at the ends of the case. Stitching should be done slowly and carefully, otherwise the fabric may be beveled, and then you will have to redo the work from the beginning.

Spectacular examples in the interior

If it was decided to make a homemade bed in the bedroom, this does not mean that it should be boring and ordinary. Self-manufacturing initially implies a certain amount of creativity and creativity in the work. This is especially true for baby cots.

This image shows that the profile bed is not only a place to relax, but also a small area for entertainment in the form of a slide, wall bars and a rope.

And in this example, you can see the dream of many children. The bed is made in the form of a house, where it is always calm and you can not be afraid of monsters under the bed.

From the image it is clear that this room is already an adult child. The sleeping place is very functional, it is easy to clean and it will not take up extra space. For the older generation, a more ergonomic bed is suitable, where you can sleep comfortably, as well as hide things inside until needed.

Fans of magic and miracles can bring a floating bed to life. It is done quite simply, but the result will delight and inspire new achievements every time.