To prevent the wood from deteriorating and losing its appearance over time, it is necessary to use wood oil or wax. Their properties suggest protection from external influences.
Wax is used not only in medicine, cosmetology, but also in industry. Beeswax consists of esters, fatty acids, hydrocarbons, which have good water-repellent properties. When heated to +20 degrees, the density of the substance decreases. Its color does not affect the properties.
Best qualities of wax:
- fire resistance;
- wood strengthening;
- protection from moisture;
- improving the appearance of the material;
- moisture removal;
- brilliant appearance.
You can make a solution for treating wood with wax yourself or buy a ready-made product in the store.
Previously, wax dissolved in turpentine was used as a processing composition. This is a reliable remedy, but it has a serious drawback - turpentine smells unpleasant. Its smell finally disappears after about two years.
After the material is treated with wax, the appearance is transformed, minor scratches are erased, and a pristine shine appears.
Wax impregnation for wood is an important element, as it helps prevent rotting, burning and fungal formations. Wax is considered the best means of protection against chemical and other influences on wood. Thanks to its protective properties, the tree does not lose its appearance and retains its structure and pattern for a long time. The surface becomes velvety and pleasant to the touch.
Waxing materials
Waxing wood is considered one of the best ways to treat surfaces. Such protection is quite reliable and inexpensive. You can find colored wax on sale that allows you to add the desired color to the wood. Any wood can be impregnated with wax. For high-quality wood processing you need to purchase:
- sandpaper;
- wax;
- solvent;
- hard brush;
- cloth;
- brush.
Wood fibers dry out over time, so this impregnation will perfectly preserve the product and prevent external factors from affecting it.
Waxing process
How to treat wood with wax? Here are the detailed instructions:
- It is necessary to get rid of the old coating by removing the residue with a solvent, and then get rid of the remaining solvent using warm water. If large pieces of old varnish remain, you need to remove them using a carpenter's knife and sand them with sandpaper. To get rid of varnish from the cracks, you need to walk over the surface to be treated several times with a stiff brush. After all procedures, the surface will become even and smooth, ready for waxing.
- Be sure to apply wax only to a dry surface using a special cloth. First, you need to treat a flat surface, and then move on to cracks, corners and other elements. You can use a brush. Correct impregnation is carried out along the fibers.
- After the process is completed, you need to give it an hour to dry. When the wax is completely absorbed, remove the excess with a rag. It is necessary to ensure that the wax penetrates into all crevices and hard-to-reach areas. This will give strength and durability. To get the shine effect, the wood needs to be processed twice. If a film begins to form, use a stiff brush.
It should be remembered that the work must be done carefully so as not to damage the product. Impregnation will allow the wood to sparkle in a new way, protect it from external factors, and add shine.
The waxing process itself does not require special knowledge, however, the algorithm of actions must be followed, otherwise the effect will not be noticed. It is almost impossible to damage furniture using this method. Waxing wood not only preserves its properties for a long time, but also gives it the appropriate appearance. External factors have less impact on its integrity, which allows you not to worry about the service life of the product.
In rare cases, shellac varnish is added to the wax coating. It is able to consolidate the result and add shine.
Any wooden surface needs protection. To preserve its appearance for a long time, the furniture is covered with wax or solutions that contain it. If you want to not only protect your furniture, but also give it a different shade, use colored wax.
You should remember the properties of wax when heated. High temperatures have a detrimental effect on waxed furniture. Traces from an ordinary mug will have to be removed by repeated waxing and polishing. You should not use this method of caring for furniture located in the kitchen. Even an ordinary hot mug can harm and ruin the table. Only if you take precautions can you extend the life of such a coating. Otherwise, the original appearance will be lost.
It is best to use such furniture in a bedroom, room or bathhouse. Wood impregnated with a special composition strengthens and becomes resistant to external conditions. This allows the furniture to last for a very long time. In order for the decor to please for many years, it is necessary to constantly monitor its condition and put it in order.
You should avoid contact with alcohol and elevated temperatures, and also try not to leave scratches, as you will have to perform the waxing procedure again.
Application of wax mastic
Wax mastic is applied not only to furniture, but also to parquet floors. It should be sanded vertically relative to the grain. There are several types of impregnation mixtures:
- pasty;
- creamy;
- oily.
In order for the furniture to absorb the wax as much as possible, you need to properly prepare the surface. Using a stiff brush allows you to clean all the crevices so that waxing gives the desired effect. Sanding is necessary to obtain a uniform and smooth surface.
Wax mastic does not mask stains or defects. To do this, it is necessary to apply wax treatment with a special bleach. The price category of the wax coating varies depending on the manufacturer and the presence of additives. A brush is the main tool for such woodworking. The cloth is used for semi-liquid type.
Hard wax is diluted with plain water. If desired, you can use colored wax. Apply carefully in a thin layer. An hour is enough for complete absorption, after which the excess is removed. After these procedures, the wood will have a matte texture.
What is the difference between wax and oil?
For treating wood with wax, there is both wax paste and linseed oil with wax. To be able to differentiate between them, you need to understand how both of these remedies work. After application, the oil immediately saturates the material, and wood wax forms a film, thanks to which it protects the product from abrasion and damage.
Wax with linseed oil helps prevent wood from drying out and rotting. If the material needs to be protected, then you need to choose wood wax. If the furniture is prepared for use outside the home, then oil-wax for wood is better. Waxing is the most reliable method of protecting a wooden surface. Inexpensiveness allows anyone who has a wooden floor to use this method.
On video: how to prepare wax with linseed oil
Wax impregnation is distinguished by its environmental friendliness, safety and water-repellent properties. If circumstances require, you can change the shades or the entire color of the coating.
What is important to know?
Wood mastic can be used for both interior and exterior work. Wax and wood oil are not acceptable where there is a stove or stove nearby. Wood processing involves the use of elements such as:
- colored wax;
- liquid wax;
- white wax;
- oil wax;
- paraffin;
- turpentine;
- tint paints.
Wax-based impregnation of wood protects the surface from scratches. But it can also hide them. Typically, white or yellow wax is used to work with wood. When applied, this composition becomes transparent and does not add color to the wood.
If you need to refresh old furniture, use colored wax. Most often these are dark shades that allow you to hide chips and scratches on old furniture. Depending on the type of wood, the paints with which the wax is mixed will differ:
- For oak, brown and black paints are used;
- for pine or cedar – golden;
- Red paints are used in mahogany compositions.
Colored wax is not used on chairs and dining tables to prevent the furniture from staining the clothes of the people who will use it.
We do the impregnation ourselves
Do-it-yourself wood impregnation can not only protect, but also protect the surface from external factors. This mixture is easy to make at home. The recipe is simple:
- Take beeswax, drying oil and turpentine oil. Mixing proportions – 3:2:5.
- Melt the beeswax in a water bath and add the remaining ingredients to it.
- Stir the resulting mixture well, pour into a storage container and let it harden.
This impregnating composition can be used to care for parquet and furniture. There are a lot of technologies for processing wood materials, but the most effective is using wax and oil.
Processing wood with wax (2 videos)
It is important to highlight the grain of the wood using appropriate finishes. Currently, there are a large number of varnishes on various bases and chemical stains on sale. Of course, all these means have advantages, but in addition to this, there are also significant disadvantages.
The main disadvantage of such products is their toxicity and unnaturalness. For example, when making wooden utensils, it is generally not permissible to use stains and varnishes.
It is best to use natural vegetable or beeswax, as it has many advantages:
- Safe for health.
- Reveals the texture and emphasizes the beauty of the wood, due to which the wood becomes more expressive, brighter, darkens a little, and also acquires a very noble golden hue.
- The wood surface, which is treated with waxing, acquires water-repellent properties and scratch resistance. In addition, unlike varnish, the surface breathes.
- The wood has a beautiful matte shine that does not hurt the eyes.
- The tree has an excellent smell.
Before you start waxing, you need to thoroughly treat the surface with impregnation. The simplest impregnation is vegetable oil. The best option would be linseed oil, which needs to be used to treat the surface several times. After each impregnation, it is necessary to allow time to dry, and then sand.
Using linseed oil as a base, various impregnating compositions are often prepared using roots and herbs (calgal root, elecampane, burdock or angelica). Such plants contain tannins, which turn into oil and then help strengthen the surface layers of the wood during processing.
Here is one recipe for making mint oil, which has a light and very pleasant aroma:
About 100 grams of crushed and well-dried mint leaves should be poured into a container and filled with vegetable oil (0.5 l), then shaken and stored in a dark place for two weeks. Then the composition must be filtered and used for its intended purpose.
After impregnation, the wood must be treated with wax mastic, which is prepared from turpentine and wax taken in a ratio of 1:2, or from wax and oil in a ratio of 1:2 (for food products).
There is another recipe for making wax mastic:
You need to take 25 grams of rosin, 50 grams of purified turpentine and 100 grams of wax. In an enamel container, you need to melt the wax in a water bath and add rosin to it. After the wax has completely dissolved, turpentine must be gradually added. You can also add a little propolis, which will strengthen the tree and give it a pleasant aroma.
After removing from the heat, the resulting mixture should be poured into a tin jar and left to cool. The mastic should turn out pasty and thick. This mastic should be applied with a piece of wool or cloth to the surface of the wood and rubbed until shiny. You can add cherry gum or resin to the mastic.
In addition to beeswax, carnauba wax, which is made from the leaves of the Brazilian palm tree, can be used. During the heat, the palm tree secretes wax, which protects the leaves from moisture loss, completely covering them.
Carnauba wax has a much higher melting point, making it more stable than beeswax. But the price of such wax is three times higher.
Waxing wood. Wood mastics and impregnations
It is important to highlight the wood texture with appropriate finishing. Of course, now there are a lot of chemical stains and varnishes on different bases. They have their advantages, but there are also significant disadvantages, the main ones of which are unnaturalness and toxicity. There are situations when varnishes and stains are generally unacceptable. For example, in the manufacture of wooden spoons or dishes.
Natural bee or plant wax
1) harmless to health,
2) emphasizes the beauty and reveals the texture of the wood, it becomes brighter, more expressive, slightly darkens and acquires a noble golden hue, 3) the wood surface treated with waxing becomes water-repellent and scratch-resistant, in addition, it breathes, unlike varnish,
4) the wood acquires a noble matte shine that does not hurt the eyes,
5) has an excellent smell.
Before waxing, the wood must be treated with impregnation. The simplest impregnation is vegetable oil, of course linseed oil is better. They process the product in several stages. After each impregnation, the product is allowed to dry, then sanded.
Based on linseed oil, impregnating compositions are often prepared on herbs and roots (angelica root, burdock, elecampane, galangal). Tannins contained in plants turn into oil and, when processing wood, strengthen its surface layers.
Peppermint oil
Here is a recipe for making mint oil, which has a very pleasant light aroma:
100g of dried crushed mint leaves are poured into a glass container, poured in 0.5 liters of vegetable oil, shaken and sent to a dark place for 2 weeks. It is then filtered and used.
Afterwards the wood is treated with wax mastic. The simplest wax mastic is prepared from wax and turpentine in a ratio of 2:1, or oil and wax in a ratio of 2:1 (this is for food products). Here's another recipe for making wax mastic:
We take 100g of wax, 25g of crushed rosin and 50g of purified turpentine.
In a water bath, melt the wax in an enamel container, add rosin. After the wax has dissolved, gradually add turpentine. I add a little more propolis, it strengthens the wood and gives it an extra aroma. Remove everything from the heat, pour into a tin jar and let the mixture cool. The mastic becomes thick and pasty:
The product is rubbed with it and rubbed in with a piece of cloth or wool until the fabric stops sticking and a shine appears.
Sometimes resin or cherry gum is added to the mastic.
In addition to beeswax, carnauba wax, which is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian palm tree, is often used. In hot weather, it secretes wax, which covers the surface of the leaf and protects against moisture loss.
Carnauba wax has a higher melting point, so it is more stable than beeswax. But it’s also 3 times more expensive.
Source: http://iz-dereva-svoimi-rukami.ru/
Push:
I tried using a mixture of beeswax and edible flax oil for waxing.
Heat the wax in a water bath. After the wax has melted, add linseed oil and mix well.
Proportions:
Wax-oil 4-1, 2-1 - the mastic turns out to be hard - similar to hard wax, but with a “greasy” tint.
Wax-oil 1-4, 1-2 - this mastic is obtained in the form of a semi-thick paste. The more oil, the more creamy the mastic will be. It must be stored in an airtight jar. Before use, we put a cloth into the jar and take a little mastic and polish the product on a machine. I use this mastic for waxing complex profiles (sour cream gets everywhere).
Mastic based on "Wax-oil" is relatively safe for "food" products (jars, vases for cookies). Why do I call it relatively safe - I just think that in our age of allergies, sooner or later there will be a person in whom your product will cause an allergy. I personally know a person who is allergic to flaxseed oil :)
But it should be recognized that the components of mastic, wax and oil, are the most environmentally friendly and are suitable for processing products that will come into contact with food.
Try mixing wax with other oils - perhaps you like something better.
Just for fun, I once prepared a mastic infused with juniper sawdust and roots - when covering a linden tree with such mastic, it gives off a delicate juniper smell (a familiar carpenter was at first puzzled :)). Also, various herbs and roots often change the shade of the coated product - in general, a limitless springboard for creativity.
Flaxseed oil can be bought in many pharmacies - it is the cheapest there. I do not recommend using the oil sold in art salons for food products.
I prefer to buy wax "at the grandmother's market." Once I bought wax at the market (in the form of molds) - something was wrong.
Also, products can be coated simply with a piece of wax - apply the wax to a rotating product, rub it well, and then polish it with cotton, wool or linen
Wax mastics are made by mixing beeswax with other components in a 2:1 ratio, for example, turpentine, oil (for dishes and other household items that come into contact with food), and rosin.
One of the recipes for preparing wax mastic is as follows: 100 g of beeswax is melted in a water bath with 25 g of crushed rosin. As the wax melts, 50 g of turpentine is added little by little. After the mixed mass becomes homogeneous, it is cooled. You should get a plastic paste-like mass.
This mastic is applied to the product using a woolen cloth and polished by rubbing the mastic into the surface until the stickiness disappears and shine appears. You can also use a stiff natural bristle brush.
The simplest mastic
The simplest mastic for waxing fine-pored wood consists of 40
parts of wax and 60 parts of turpentine (taken by weight). For her
cooking first in a glass or enamel bowl over water
wax is melted in the bath. When the wax melts, remove it from the heat and
stir with purified turpentine. Do not mix turpentine with wax in
close proximity to the fire, since the vapor of heated turpentine can easily
ignite. It is also better to heat frozen mastic using water.
bath, closing the dishes with a metal lid.
Mastic for waxing large-pore wood
Mastic for waxing large-pore wood has a more complex
compound. It includes: wax (30 parts by mass), stearin (10), rosin
(10), laundry soap (10), turpentine (40). With independent
To make such a mastic, wax and stearin are first melted and mixed
and rosin, then soap in shavings is added to the hot mixture (gives
mastic elasticity). After the mixture has cooled somewhat, it
diluted with turpentine and stirred thoroughly.
Apply thin, even wax (mastic) to the surface to be treated.
layer using a rag swab or a stiff brush with a short
stubble. If the wax or mastic has hardened, they are preheated
to a temperature of 22-25°C, at which they become pasty.
After applying a layer of wax or mastic, the product is kept for 3 to 24 hours
(depending on the composition of the coating) until the wax is absorbed into the wood and
the turpentine will not evaporate completely. At the same time, on a waxed surface
Dirty gray spots may appear which, over time,
subsequent processing disappear without a trace.
The dried, waxed surface of the wood is rubbed along the grain.
cloth. At first the cloth sticks to the mastic, but gradually the mastic
the layer and wood are heated by friction with the cloth, the surface of the product
becomes smoother. The rubbing is continued until the cloth is
will stop sticking. After a few days, the rubbing is repeated, replacing
cloth with flannel or suede. Over time, the wax coating fades, but
its former appearance is restored after rubbing with cloth. Sometimes
the wax coating is “fixed” with a thin layer of varnish, half
diluted with polish.
Ed. A. Bogdanova
For wood I have been using Teak Oil on my products for a long time. Sold in hardware stores and designed to protect wood from external influences. It has high penetrating ability, highlights the wood texture well and polymerizes quickly. You can also use Danish oil or lyanka.
Teak Oil is an oil, but not teak palm due to the lack of one, the name comes from the use of this type of oil to impregnate teak, which has been used in shipbuilding since ancient times due to its properties. This is a mixture of oils (each manufacturer has its own) based on linseed oil, which penetrates deeply into the wood (compared to oils on other bases) and accordingly protects the wood. Unlike Danish Oil, it does not create a film on the surface.
Bronzing wood
Using a brush, wooden objects are evenly coated with a diluted solution of liquid glass, after which they are sprinkled with gold bronze from a jar, the neck of which is tied with muslin. Once dried, the bronze adheres so strongly to the object that its surface can be polished with agate. This method is recommended for bronzing picture frames and other items.
Waxing wood
For waxing expensive wooden furniture, there is a fairly simple method suitable for preparing wax. To do this, you need to take 100 grams of good yellow wax, which must be crushed and add 12 grams of mastic or 25 grams of rosin crushed into powder. The listed substances are placed in a vessel and melted over a fire. After the mass has melted, remove it from the heat and add 50 grams of warm turpentine to it. Mix everything thoroughly. It should be applied by rubbing the wood with a small amount of the resulting mixture using a woolen cloth. Wood treated in this way acquires a very beautiful and soft shine.
Wood staining
There is the following method of painting wood, which has an advantage over the traditionally used painting method, which consists in the fact that with this method the wood is saturated with paints to a considerable depth, after which it can be polished without damaging the applied paint. The method is as follows. Having prepared the batter from rye, wheat or potato flour, spread it on a sheet of paper, cardboard or thin tin in a layer 0.5 mm thick. Paints are applied to this layer in powder form or in the semi-liquid state in which they are used to prepare colored paper, after which everything is applied to the object to be painted; A perforated tin sheet is placed on top of the paper or cardboard and secured with staples. In this form, the whole thing is immersed in boiling water. Here the dyes dissolve and permeate the wood, and the dough hardens so firmly that it holds the applied paints nearby, preventing them from merging with each other. In this way, you can paint wood in different colors at the same time, without allowing the latter to merge; You can apply veins, patterns, and so on in all kinds of colors. The deeper the paint needs to penetrate into the wood, the longer it is necessary to keep the items in hot water. At the end of the painting process, the dough is washed off with water, and the painted surface is allowed to dry well in a dark room. Instead of directly using dry paints in powder, for which all kinds of paints used in dyeing are suitable, you can use another cheaper method, which consists in pre-impregnating sawdust with paints and then applying them in the above manner to the batter.
Preparation of wax polishes for polishing wooden products
1) 25 parts by weight of finely ground stearin are added to 12.5 parts of turpentine and the mixture is heated until the stearin is completely dissolved.
2) Dissolve 25 parts of wax in a glazed pot and then, when the wax dissolves, remove the vessel from the heat and add 40 parts of turpentine to the wax.
3) Heat 10 parts of copal varnish, add 40 parts of wax to it and, when the latter dissolves, add 75 parts of turpentine, gradually stirring.
4) 30 parts of wax and 1.5 parts of rosin are dissolved on fire, then, removing the vessel from the heat, add 14.5 parts of turpentine.
5) Take 2.5 parts of potash to 30 parts of water and boil, then add 5 parts of finely ground wax and heat the whole mixture until a homogeneous soap mass is obtained.
Joiner's polish
(Polish - A type of varnish, which is a solution of resinous substances in ethyl alcohol.)
The polish is selected according to the shade corresponding to the color of the wood being polished, from reddish-brown to white, or rather colorless. The desired shade is obtained if you take two main polishes in different proportions.
Red-brown polish
1 part red shellac, 4 parts alcohol.
White polish
1 part bleached shellac, 5 parts alcohol.
Bleached shellac (Shellac is a resinous substance that is secreted by some insects - varnish bugs that live on the shoots of tropical plants, and which is used in the production of varnishes and polishes) is prepared from ordinary as follows: 4 parts by weight of shellac are mixed with 1 part of soda and dissolved with stirring in 15 parts of water until the resin is completely dissolved, i.e. until the liquid becomes completely transparent. Then let it settle and pour the clear solution without sediment into another container. Here, a solution of 4 parts by weight of bleach in 4 parts by weight of water is added to a clear solution and the mixture is left alone for two days. After this, little by little hydrochloric acid is poured into the mixture until no resin precipitate is released. Then all that remains is to rinse the resin residue well with water to remove traces of hydrochloric acid and dry it.
Turpentine mordant
(mordant - 1. A chemical substance used in industry for various purposes (cleaning and painting metals, wood, bones, leather processing, meat preservation, etc.). 2. A chemical substance that serves to better fix paint on fibers and fabrics 3. A caustic substance for burning patterns on something)
As you know, when etching wood, solutions of organic paints in water or alcohol are still used. This method has one significant drawback: the surface of the wood to be painted becomes rough from alcohol or water, as a result of which after etching it has to be smoothed with glass sandpaper, in this case the applied paint is erased and there is a need for a second coating, which entails new sanding, etc. ., until a perfectly smooth surface is obtained. But if in such solutions water or alcohol is replaced with turpentine, then a completely different effect is obtained. When using mordants with turpentine, the wood fibers do not swell at all, which eliminates the appearance of roughness and, therefore, the need for sanding. Depending on the structure of the wood, finer or coarser, one or two coatings are sufficient to obtain the required shade. The solutions themselves for walnut, rosewood, light or dark oak, and so on are prepared in the usual way, replacing water or alcohol with turpentine. So, to obtain a good mordant for walnut wood, dissolve 600 grams of brown paint and 15 grams of orange in 1 liter of turpentine. Then the solution is filtered and a filtered solution of 100 grams of black paint in 3 liters of turpentine is added to it. If the resulting mordant turns out to be thick or does not match the required tone, it is diluted with turpentine.
In this article I will tell you about an awesome thing - homemade wax impregnation.
With its help, you can make fabric, leather or wood waterproof, and also protect metal from rust.
What is extremely pleasing is that the cost of this cream is extremely low, and production is elementary.
All ingredients can be obtained without any problems, whether now or after the mythical BP.
This impregnation, in my opinion, should be included in the arsenal of every hiker, survivalist and bushcrafter. In any case, I am extremely pleased with her.
So. To prepare we will need:
Beeswax. It is purchased in stores selling honey. The cost is 500 rubles per kilogram. In case of BP, it is obtained by barter at the nearest apiary.
Natural linseed oil (not oxol). Purchased at hardware stores. It is inexpensive, 100 rubles for 400 g. In BP it is made from linseed or sunflower oil by long-term boiling.
Turpentine is also sold in hardware stores and is even cheaper than drying oil. In BP it is produced by distillation from resin.
Three wax on a grater.
Melt the grated wax in a water bath. After complete melting, remove from heat and stir in drying oil.
I prepared the first recipe without turpentine. I simply mixed wax and drying oil one to one by weight.
Then I poured it into the mold and set it to cool.
Looking ahead, I will say that the option without turpentine is not so convenient to use, but it can be smeared even on the face.
I liked the option with turpentine more in terms of ease of application.
To prepare it, you must maintain the following proportions: two parts wax, one part drying oil and one part turpentine.
The recipe is similar. Melt the wax in a water bath, remove from heat, add drying oil and mix thoroughly, add turpentine and also mix thoroughly, then leave to cool.
To fill this rather large jar (it's larger than shoe polish jars),
you need 75 grams of wax and two tablespoons of drying oil with turpentine.
After hardening.
The version without turpentine is very dense and does not melt in your hands.
The version with turpentine is quite dense, but at the same time the consistency is pasty. If you take a piece in your hands, it will slowly begin to melt. Due to turpentine it has a slight resinous smell.
There are several application methods:
Firstly, it is well suited for wood. Take a large piece of impregnation and spread it thickly on a wooden surface.
Then we warm it up with a hairdryer; on a hike it can be a fire.
And polish it with some kind of cloth. As a result, the wax penetrates into the pores of the wood and it becomes moisture resistant. Water simply does not wet it.
We simply spread it thickly on the metal. You don't have to warm it up. Now the piece of iron will not rust because... no contact with water.
The second method of treating wood is vigorous rubbing of impregnation. As a result, it melts from the heat of the hands and friction and also covers the wood wonderfully.
Cooking recipes and methods of application.
If you have started building a house or decorating a room using wooden elements, you will definitely need special surface treatment products. But, unfortunately, not everyone has the budget to purchase them. If you are forced to save money, we recommend creating a solution for processing the material yourself.
How to make wood impregnation You will find out for yourself in our article. Various recipes, proven over the years, can be found on the Internet. We will look at the most popular ones.
Recipe for preparing bitumen-based impregnation
To create such a product you will need bitumen, diesel fuel or gasoline.
Bitumen should be poured into a bucket, brought to a boil, and then diesel fuel should be poured in doses. Its volume should be such that after cooling the mixture remains liquid.
This antiseptic penetrates deeply into the structure of the wood, in no way inferior to expensive compounds. The absorption depth can be up to 6 mm. It is also easy to create a quick-drying impregnation; for this, diesel fuel is replaced with gasoline. Please note that in this case heating of the solution is excluded.
After use bitumen-based impregnations Additional coating using special oil-based enamels is recommended. The use of nitro paints and nitro varnishes is prohibited.
The main advantages of such antiseptics are reliable protection against the penetration of moisture and oxygen; preventing the development of various microorganisms; eliminates damage by wood-boring insects; creates a durable coating without rotting. As for the disadvantages: toxicity, easy flammability, high soiling, strong unpleasant odor, not suitable for indoor work.
No less effective when processing wood is salt impregnation.
Recipe for salt-based impregnation
- The main substance used is sodium fluoride in the amount of 25 kg.
- The product is immersed in a container of 400 liters of water and diluted until smooth.
- Next, the log house is processed using a special apparatus for airless painting under a pressure of 200 bar.
- Simultaneously with processing, the top layer of wood is removed. Then the surface is sanded using a 40 flap wheel and a final treatment is carried out with oil, varnish or other means.
The advantages of salt-based impregnation include lower toxicity compared to aqueous solutions. The disadvantages are a lower degree of protection; ability to be washed off with water; the need to use additional coatings for fixation.
The use of synthetic impregnations is unsafe, especially for interior work. The substances included in the composition are toxic and flammable. To create an environmentally friendly wood treatment, it is recommended to use vegetable or natural beeswax. Wax impregnation is absolutely safe, gives the surface a pleasant aroma, makes it resistant to mechanical damage, imparts water-repellent properties, emphasizes the beauty and texture of the wood, and creates a beautiful matte finish with shine.
The solution consists of turpentine and wax, taken in a ratio of 1:2. To process food-grade wood products, oil is mixed instead of turpentine in a 2:1 ratio.
Recipe for making wax impregnation
Ingredients: 25 g crushed rosin, 100 g wax, 50 g purified turpentine.
For cooking, it is better to use enamel dishes.
The wax must be melted in a water bath, then add rosin.
After that, turpentine is gradually poured in, which gives the wood a pleasant aroma and generally strengthens the surface.
One of the most effective antiseptics is copper sulfate. The saturated solution provides reliable protection for boards buried in the ground. Its use on the territory of a personal plot during the harvest period is carried out with caution, because may cause severe poisoning upon contact with fruits.
Antiseptic recipe:
Ingredients: 100 g of iron sulfate, 10 g of potassium permanganate, 10 l of water.
To prepare the solution, it is better to use a 25 liter plastic canister.
The ingredients are diluted in a canister, after which the solution is ready for use.
For interior work, it is possible to use less concentrated salt impregnations. It is recommended to apply the solution with a wide brush or using a spray bottle.
Impregnations based on copper sulfate require a long impregnation time and thorough drying.
Storage of solutions is possible for several days after preparation.
Before creating a mixture, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the wood intended for processing in order to eliminate errors in the dosage of components. To prepare it yourself requires spending a lot of time, as well as selecting the components in advance. In addition, almost all of the above impregnations are suitable only for external use, because... toxic. That is why, for safety reasons, it is better to use high-quality LuxDecor wood impregnation products.
