Ship "Black Pearl": how to do it yourself. "Black Pearl"

That's all ready for the next step. We lay the deck. I used maple slats 5mm wide, 1.5mm thick.

The stumbling block in all forums is how to blacken the joints, imitating a caulk. Options: black thread, tinted PVA, chamfering and subsequent patination, dark veneer, painting the ends, paper from photographic packaging, dyed drawing paper / tracing paper, etc. I chose calque.

Cut off a piece of tracing paper. We paint over with ink from the heart and hang to dry. Consumption came out small - about one and a half dyed A4 sheets.

Since there is no theoretical drawing of the "Black Pearl", we had to come up with the location of the beams, guided by common sense - if possible, place them along the borders of hatches and future ladders into the hold.

The average distance turned out to be 2.5 cm.

I put the center rail. Be sure to complete, so as not to overwhelm the direction.

Cut the tracing paper into "noodles",

glue on the end of the rails.

After some time, we observe the beauty increasing with each new lath laid. The first two slats around the lattice imitate a reinforced belt. Boards are as long as possible. Then he laid it in three boards. Wanted at five, but the deck is not wide enough.

By the end of the second day, the deck is covered. We scrape with a knife. The surface is leveled well, it is difficult to make holes. Unless the knife enhances microroughnesses, jumping over them during wiring, so it is better to leave problem areas. Still skin everything.

To lay the remaining decks, bulkheads need to be ennobled. I attached a template, here you can see how much the feed curve I had - the consequences of the propeller and numerous corrections. Later, I built up the side with linden slats.

Bulkhead in the nose. My first pear design. I sealed the hold with molar tape.

Next, we construct the aft bulkhead. To do this, we collect a primitive conductor. We glue paper on the main plywood, on top of another plywood, repeating the death of the deck, on paper we outline the approximate location of doors and windows. The bottom two slats had to be steamed out and held in another jig.

After a while, the main part of the bulkhead is ready.

It's for the windows. We assemble gratings from 1x2 mm rails.

We soak the outer part and bend it on the window template. Then we glue it on the plexiglass and then glue the gratings.

We return to the decks. On the bow, we separately imitate the boards around the mast (they quickly wore out and then changed), we narrow the main boards from 5 to 4 mm. We make a cut along the edges.

Feed is a little more difficult. We narrow 19 rails from 5 to 2.5 mm. Could not mechanize the process. I had to tighten my hands. First with a small planer, then with a skinner. The decks have been laid.

Performed nailing on the nose.

By the way, here are the real pins:


The process looks like this. We do markup. We prepare round bars with a diameter of 0.6 mm, drill holes.

We dilute PVA with water. We dip the rod, insert it into the hole, bite off. And so 700-800 times.

Then gently skin.

I did not buy all the magazines, because. castings imitating barrels, bottles, a rope and other dregs are not worth the money they are asked for, and it will not be difficult to order similar elements, but of better quality and cheaper. To show the interior of the ship, as the authors of this model expect, the ship clearly does not have enough frames. So if the inside is not correct, then it is better to hide it ...

I'm posting the results of today's work. I have to say, this is a really cool design. The convergence of parts is 6 points on a 5 point scale! The entire skeleton was assembled dry, and then the seams were shed with a cosmophen without disassembling. Even without him, though, everything worked out just fine.






I finish the columns, beams and decks. I'm starting upholstery. At the moment, this is almost everything that came out of the magazines regarding the case. After turning the bow and stern frames, I glue the remaining skin elements.







All elements are even, there is nothing to process, the inside will not be visible, accordingly, nothing needs to be painted, the inner decks do not need to be covered with decking - and therefore quickly.
Now I see that the hull is much wider than it should be, plus the profile of all the frames is not as pot-bellied as it should be. Anyway. Now about construction. Sheathed the sides with a rough trim. I could not get one number with the aft part of the skin, so I had to make the part from the remnants of the frames for the parts. In the last issue, I received, as it seemed to me, the skin of the entire starboard side - I got screwed. It was the lining of the inner part of the left side. After checking them, I realized that these parts can be used as a starboard skin with minor adjustments. He laid the upper gun deck and the forecastle deck and installed a ruster grill on it. I did not cut a hole for it - there will be no backlight. Began to do the rough trim of the stern.








I finished the rough skin of the hull and found a huge jamb of the manufacturer:
1) for some reason, the cannon ports closer to the stern and to the tank are not rectangular in shape, but diamond-shaped (how, interestingly, can such ports be closed with a lid in reality? Since the hinges will be located obliquely, the port covers themselves will not be perpendicular to the side, but at an angle to it!). Okay, I won't fix it.
2) If you look at the drawings (even those posted on this page), it is not difficult to see that the bulkhead with the door to the cabin is located almost immediately after the end of the 2nd cannon port of the lower gun deck, and according to the magazine - before the start of the 3rd cannon port .


Change on point 2 - riveted in vain. After installing the aft top parts, it turned out that the first high frames, which I thought were needed for a bulkhead with a door, turned out to be racks to hold high sides. I haven't sanded the black skin yet.



Completely finished the rough trim. Now I'm cutting veneer for finishing sheathing.




I'm starting a clean up. I cut "boards" from ash veneer 5x60 mm. First I fill in the gaps between the cannon ports, then I close the rest of the space.




A small LIKBEZ regarding photographing the model (maybe someone will need it). I took 3 shots from the same angle, but with different focal lengths (different zoom usage). Pay attention to how the perception of the model changes. Without zoom - 15mm model is strongly stretched, distorting proportions, with moderate zoom - 35mm model shrinks in length and looks the most similar to what we see. With a large zoom - 85 mm, the model continues to "flatten" and looks shorter than it really is. Conclusion - if you want to "elegantly" stretch the model (or female legs) - shoot in widescreen mode (10-25 mm), if you want reality - 30-40 mm is your choice. If you want to shoot a model against the backdrop of the Moon, 500 mm is enough for you. These focal lengths are given taking into account a non-full-frame matrix (Canon 50d) and others like it, with a full-frame matrix (Canon 5d and analogues), these figures must be multiplied by 1.6.

After a long absence, I can finally post the fruits of my sluggish work. General form.


A few more details to follow. Barrels steering wheel - ordered at the Shipyard.










It's the boat's turn. I decided to order it from the shipyard (and rightly so). The model is just gorgeous. Very detailed and well put together. But one problem crept into the waters - the boat turned out to be much smaller than what was needed. I'll have to order a new one - a little more, and I'll send this one to Queen Anne's Revenge (it's smaller and the size of the boat gets up there perfectly).




Ships in comparison!!!


Today I am working as Papa Carlo and carving the balcony roof.
First of all, I glued the cake from the rulers, gaining the desired height, then with a proxon electric jigsaw I cut off all the excess clearly along the contour of the balcony. The jigsaw takes this thickness (16 mm) without problems.


Now I start to remove everything superfluous with a dremel, I form a roof. It has not been attached to the photos yet. Now it remains to cut the veneer into strips and glue it on top, imitating tiles. It took only 1.5 hours for the whole trimming-turning!!


I continue to work on the body.




Details:




Balcony elements.



Lanterns were ordered from the Shipyard.




To start painting, it remains only to finalize the stand-ups, the bow mast and make the bottom trim
Before painting, I wanted to finish the body, but I ran out of nails and all small things. While I was waiting for a parcel from St. Petersburg, I thought I would go crazy from idleness. The last boat was small, so I ordered a new one. This one was just the right size. I decided to fill nails in velvet and make chains on the steering wheel. I know the original didn't have chains, but since it's pretty smart and required attribute, I decided to make it (and it looks more beautiful). Vantputtensy, as promised - chain. They are easier to make even and on the same level than any other. Although not correct, but evenly and accurately. The mast is just stuck into the deck.


According to the scenario plot, taken from the book series "Pirates of the Caribbean" by E.S. Crispina, the future "Black Pearl" was originally called the "Wicked Wench" and belonged to the East India Company as a merchant ship. It was a three-masted galleon with a golden yellow hull and snow-white sails.

It is not known exactly when the ship was built, but Lord Cutler Beckett, director of the East India Company's West African Office, got it at a very respectable age.

The Slutty Wench was in the docks of Calabar (Africa, Gulf of Guinea) at the very moment when the brig Fair Wind arrived at the port under the command of Jack Sparrow. "Fair Wind" also belonged to the East India Company. The ship's captain, Nathaniel Breinbridge, was killed by Esmeralda, a Caribbean storm and pirate lord of the day. But Jack Sparrow, the first mate of the Tailwind, saved the ship from falling into the hands of pirates. Cutler Beckett, having received Sparrow's report on how he saved the ship and most of the cargo from pirates, was so impressed that he offered him to become the captain of the Slutty Wench.

Captain Jack Sparrow, commanding the Slutty Wench, completed many contracts for the East India Company on behalf of Lord Beckett..." (http://otdatshvartovy.ru/vymyshlennye...l#more-50)

Everything would be fine, but!

Britain, and in particular the British East India Campaign, were only able to establish their outposts and settlements in southern Africa after the bankruptcy of the Dutch East India Campaign in 1794.
In Calabar, Scottish missionaries appeared only in 1846, and the British protectorate, centered in Calabar, did not appear until the 1880s.

In other words, there was no West African representation of the British East India campaign and, therefore, in the port (and not in the docks) of Calabar in the 17th - 18th century, Dutch ships could stand.
The first white settlers settled in the south of the African continent in 1652, when a representative of the Dutch East India Company, Jan van Riebeek, founded a food station in the area of ​​​​the Cape of Good Hope to supply ships sailing from Europe to Asia.

This means that "a merchant ship of the British East India campaign" could not exist in nature either.

But if we forget about the English origin of Cutler and Jack Sparrow, or about the British affiliation of the Wicked Wench, then Dutch ships of the 17th century and, above all, pinnaces immediately attract attention.

One of the first offspring of the free republic of the Netherlands (in 1582 the Dutch finally freed themselves from the Spanish protectorate) was the East India Company, founded in 1602 with the permission of the States General.

Thanks to its own fleet of solid and solid construction, the company, which received a monopoly on trade with Asian countries, soon becomes one of the richest in the world. A type of new merchant ship appears. These ships had three masts and were armed with 16 to 20 small cannons, although they were not intended for combat operations. The displacement of East Indian ships averaged about 600 tons. The ratio of the length of the hull to the width of the vessels of this type was even greater than that of the galleon. To give the ship strength, the frames were placed at a small distance from each other, and in the places where the masts were installed, they were made double. The set was reinforced with horizontal and vertical knees. The ship's hull was made of oak wood - in total, at least two thousand well-dried oaks were required for the construction. When cutting wood, care was taken to ensure that the bending of the fibers corresponded to the shape of the cut part. A detail made in this way became "eternal". They preferred to fasten oak planks to frames with wooden spikes - iron nails rusted too quickly in salty water. sea ​​water. Meanwhile, nails were used to fasten less critical structural elements of the ship. So, in order to protect the ship below the waterline from wood-boring beetles, the lower part of the hull was additionally sheathed with thin elm boards. The nails that fastened this "second skin" were located so close to each other that almost a continuous iron coating was obtained from their caps.

The spacious deck of the East Indian ships was free, and in the bow was limited to a transverse bulkhead (bikged). The protruding bow end - a latrine, the device of which was adopted from the galleys, was limited by smoothly curved slats (regels). In the low quarterdeck at the stern there were officers' cabins with wide bright windows. A galley was usually equipped under the tank. There have been many new technical devices, which facilitated the hard work of the team. For example, to lift the anchor, they begin to use a special cat-beam. The pump helps sailors quickly pump out water that has leaked into the holds. And for loading goods on merchant ships, horizontal winches were installed - windlasses.

A couple of decades pass, and in England, which did not want to accept the loss of the title of "Queen of the Seas", they begin to build military frigates. The progenitor of the first frigate, built in 1646 by the famous British shipbuilder Peter Pett, was a Dutch pinnace with its high stern superstructures, blind topmast and rich decor.

Look at the replica of the Dutch pinnace "Kalmar Nukel" built in 1625 and the first English "true frigate" - the 34-gun "Constance Warwick" built by Peter Pett in 1646 and compare them with the "Black Pearl".

One of the most difficult stages in the construction of a ship model is rightly considered the torment with a latrine and aft gallery. The mass of parts mated in three planes at once, constant adjustments. By the way, there was a moment when I threw slats, yelled obscenities, it seemed that this stage would never end. But in order.

Latrine. Apple tree. Amazing tree. It seems hard, but it seems to be processed better than a pear. Initially almost white, under oil it becomes bright yellow. We cut the railings in pairs, immediately on both sides.

We select on the router and make shagreen with an awl.

Separate troubles with a curl.

Then come the frames. L-shaped parallelepipeds. I spent half a day with the first, twenty minutes with the last. The main thing is to come up with a manufacturing technology. First, I glued the guides on the cyacrine according to the template, then the frames themselves, otherwise nothing.

Gallery. Linden front, pear bottom.

The fun begins at the stern, where the "shelf" repeats the death of the deck.

The walls of the gallery have already been erected. The future roof is being tried on.

Windows are next. We make a parallelogram out of plastic. First, we make horizontal grooves. We glue the bars.

Then we turn the part over and make it vertical.

We grind on a grinder and try on. By the way, the roof has already been removed.

Then we insert vertical bars into the windows and finally form the frame. By the way, the plastic was thick (5 mm), it turned out that all the internal edges were perfectly visible, I had to drive the thickness to 2 mm and then polish the internal surfaces.

Windows in place. There is a shagreen on the roof.

Bad Hollywood designers have created a bunch of railings for ZH. There is no higher board and gunwale. An no. We drill with a 2 mm drill.

In breaks we make a ladder. The stairs are made from one piece. The lower "bar" is just milling.

Meanwhile, the gallery takes on a residential look. "Fildepers" slats are made with a curly cutter made from a needle file.

On the sides, instead of windows, there will be threaded plugs. They are waiting for their time.

We return to the railing. The holes are drilled with a drill and drill stand to keep it vertical.

We square the holes with a microchisel (2 mm) made from the same file, and glue the bars.

A lot of bars.

We mill the railings on the sides. First detail. The grooves are cut with a hacksaw and finished with a square file. Then the part is bent on the iron.

On the spot.

After mascara.

We continue.

We make cut-beams in one installation on a milling cutter. All that's left is sanding.

The railing is up. Ladder completed. Parts of the velvets under the riverbeds have been removed.

And delicious grilled grills. We take a piece of an apple tree. We pass with a millimeter cutter in millimeter steps across the fibers. Then with less depth along. Nuance - you have to serve in dozens, otherwise the cubes break off. You look out the window and slowly, slowly twist. For a long time.

Insert cross boards.

And we remove the excess.

We make a groove from below with a scoring cutter. All that remains is to remove and walk a little sandpaper.

Now CJ is covered with a final layer of oil and toned. Dries out. To be continued.

BLOG

about the construction of the model of the Black Pearl
based on the Pirates of the Caribbean saga

Price complete set drawings - 2000 rubles.
The cost of a part of a set of drawings (only the hull or only the rigging) - 1000 rubles.
For questions about purchasing, contact the author by e-mail.

I want to introduce you to my 2 work in shipbuilding. This model was going to be given as a housewarming gift to a good friend of mine. It had to be done within a fairly short time frame. The main goal of the work is to create the appearance of an almost complete copy of a real ship for a viewer uninitiated in materiel. I think that I coped with this task adequately.



In connection with this condition, I deliberately reduced the detail, but only where it will not be visible to the "uninitiated". With the hull assembled in detail, the maximum simplifications affected the rigging. Somewhere there are no blocks, somewhere the wiring of gear is simplified. There are no buoys at anchor, no bells, the tying of guns is simplified, there are no coils of ropes on bollards, etc. etc.


As a frame, elements from the magazine series "Collect the Black Pearl" were used. Everything else is the "Mozhga" rulers and the "Cosmofen" glue. Sails - synthetic fabric plus cotton. Rigging - nylon threads plus ropes ordered at the Shipyard on the table. Cannon barrels, yufers and blocks are also from the Shipyard.
The blog is divided into 2 parts: