Often, when intending to build a foundation for a house or a bathhouse on their site, the owners want to save a lot, both in terms of finances and time. Today, such opportunities exist, for example, you can save a lot on the foundation, and without compromising the quality of the building.
This often becomes the motivation for building a foundation on car tires. At first glance, this decision looks somewhat adventurous. However, there are a lot of advantages here.
An example of working on such a foundation: 
The pros are:
- Low labor costs.
- High environmental friendliness.
- The minimum required set of tools.
- Almost free material - used tires.
- Impressive service time.
- Powerful wear resistance.
- Seismic resistance. The mechanical movements of the earth can negatively affect the shape of the foundation from other materials. And tires, due to their material, are some depreciation. They do not allow cracks in the foundation.
- Excellent cushioning properties.
- Ease of construction.
- Minimum labor costs.
- Application efficiency.
- High reliability.
However, it also has its downsides:
- Too wide. It interferes with the erection bearing walls. This complicates the external design, the appearance of the building suffers somewhat.
- Poor UV resistance.
- Unsuitable for grounds for high-rise buildings and massive buildings.
You can eliminate the first defect by different creative solutions. The second is the processing of the material with protective equipment.
The main criterion for creating a foundation of car tires is to control their positions in the same plane and at the same level. Mistakes here can lead to the distortion of the entire foundation.
Techniques for creating a rubber foundation
- Tiled.
- Columnar.
Tiled method. Work stages
The foundation is easy and quick to create even for a commercial type of real estate.
The work takes little time. The solution takes the longest to dry.
Necessary materials:
- tires;
- crushed stone;
- sand;
- ruberoid;
- wooden beam (needed for ramming);
- formwork.
We work according to the plan:
- Site preparation. Eliminates debris, pebbles, vegetation. Should I dig the ground? It is worth removing the top earthen layer, if the basis for a weighty building. Its approximate thickness is 25-35 cm. Work zone leveled with a leveler.
- Base from old tires comes in two layers. There is a simple pattern here: more material - a stronger foundation. The voids formed in the tires and between them are filled with sand, gravel (the fraction is necessarily small), earth or gravel. A broken brick will do for these purposes.
- If you intend to create a basement, then do not lay tires on this area. Then the walls of the basement can be formed from bricks.
- Tires covered with linoleum or roofing felt. This measure will help to evenly pour the concrete composition.
- The area for the foundation is fenced. The fences here are their shoulders. metal corner. Their maximum height is 15 cm. You can do it easier - create a formwork from boards.
- Placed in a fenced area metal bars. The space (formwork) is filled with concrete.
- The stage of concrete hardening. Need 2 weeks. At this time, the concrete is under protective film. After this time, you can build walls.
columnar method. Work stages
The reliability of this method is extremely high. And its use is quite logical in areas where there is a lot of seismic activity. This technique involves the use of car tires as support pillars for the future structure. Tire placement by this method: corners and key points.
For your information! To fill the tires, earth or concrete composition is required. Most often, the second option is preferred.
Here's how to do it according to the algorithm:
- Careful cleaning of the work area. Garbage, rhizomes, shrubs, etc. are being eliminated.
- The top layer of soil is removed. The surface is leveled using a level.
- Extracted top ground layer: 10-15 cm.
- A small pit is dug.
- The soil is compacted. For this operation, a roller or a thick log is used.
- Filling the pit with small gravel. Compaction of gravel.
- A hole is formed under the diameter of the tire.
- Supports are folded. The number of tires is determined by the height of the intended base and the relief of the working site.
- Marking is in progress. Pegs are driven into the tire mounting areas. A square or rectangle (the shape of the site is determined by the owner) must have an exact diagonal. Therefore, a tape measure is used for measurements. If the markup is correct, then the results will be no difference or with scanty deviations.
- Tires are being laid on these pegs. The peg should be exactly in the center of the tire. Here, a building level is needed for alignment. With the help of a wide board there is horizontal alignment.
- The inner cavity of each tire is equipped with a waterproof material. You need to do 1-2 layers.
- Further, small rubble is poured inside. One layer is poured, rammed, then the next one is poured. Crushed stone should fill the space up to 6 cm in height to the upper plane of the tires.
- Crushed stone is moistened.
- Each post is filled with concrete. Excess mixture is removed with the edge of the board.
- The stage of strengthening concrete. A week is needed. Then you can mount the bars of the lower trim instead of the classic fittings.
After these stages, a concrete base of powerful strength is formed on top of the tires. It transfers key loads to the crushed stone layer. And the rubble distributes them evenly. Such a foundation is optimal for self-construction of light houses from a bar. Suitable for garage. Old wheels are ideal for a barn and other outbuildings.
The bead sides of rubber tires are excellent expansion joints in extreme ground conditions: freezing and thawing. gravel layer easily dampens ground movement. And here one more plus of the foundation on the tires looms - low earthworks.
Important! Whatever method you use, in the summer, poured concrete must be protected with polyethylene. This prevents the appearance of cracks on it.
How to choose material
Some developments and tips from an experienced builder on YouTube:
In work, it is important to follow the following criteria:
- Strictly follow the technologies and construction schemes.
- If you pick up tires in car services, opt for options with a large diameter. They have the best strength.
- The foundation must not be deepened below the frozen ground mark. The arranged foundation at a shallow depth is not afraid of even severe frosts.
- When laying the lower tires in a pit in the soil, be sure to follow the horizontal position of their positions. Here work goes with the level. If any irregularities and slopes are obtained at this stage, they will be extremely difficult to correct.
- Control of the high points of such a foundation. They should be positioned on the same level. Required steps here:
- wheels are placed in the created pits, slats are located on them (the length of the slats is the same), a thin twine stretches all the way from above,
- a horizontal check is carried out; this helps to identify from which hole the earth needs to be removed, and which one to add,
- height differences are eliminated, for this, boards of the required length are nailed to the lower parts of the strapping.
- Due to the impressive width of the tires, the foundation is concentrated in the corners of the building and in intermediate positions. The correction of such a defect is carried out as follows: the protrusions are decoratively finished. For work, you can use any improvised materials.
- The erection of massive buildings should be carried out only on a tape or slab basis.
Results
For new or an old house it could look like this. 
On the open ground very easy to put basis for a porch, for a toilet or a veranda.
The most inventive ones prepare entire sites from free building materials, taking into account the peculiarities of the landscape. 
Today, more and more people prefer the foundation on the tires. And this is quite justified. Most often, tires from trucks, such as KAMAZ, are used. Someone builds a tiled, someone columnar version. Decisions are made after studying the site, soil, soil and climate. Someone manages to get a lot of tires of different diameters. For some, less. Therefore, the dimensions of the foundations are different. There are no clear patterns here. Further, buildings of various profiles (houses, saunas, etc.) are erected on such foundations. You can pick up anything for a chicken coop, for a summer bath.
Honestly, it's hard to tell from the photo what kind of stone. But if it is strong enough, then it can only be used to build a foundation by first sawing it into pieces. right size(I wrote the dimensions of the stones for the rubble concrete foundation above). And continue to make a good rubble concrete foundation using these stones. Just stones, no matter what size they are, even fixed in the ground by everyone possible ways- it's not a foundation. And it is impossible to count on the fact that he will serve at least for a few years. After all, the foundation must work as one single whole - both in compression and in tension. So either as I write (to cut and make rubble concrete), or I will have to completely abandon the idea of \u200b\u200busing these boulders. Moreover, I would not advise building an outbuilding in this way, and even more so a residential building - it is too dangerous. We have already seen many consequences of an incorrectly made foundation on our portal. And believe me, it is much more difficult and expensive to deal with them later than to make a good foundation from the beginning.
Now about what kind of foundation can be built on your soils.
Can tape. If it is sand of any size (large, medium, fine, dusty), then a shallow foundation will suit you. This is a tape buried only 50 cm into the ground. Plus a minimum of 20 cm above the ground (basement).
If you do not have sand, but sandy loam, then you can make a tape 70 cm deep (70 cm in the ground and another 20 above the ground - the base).
If loam (sand mixed with clay), then at least the depth of freezing of the soil is 90 cm (+20 base).
You can determine more accurately what kind of soil you have (sand, sandy loam, loam) like this. Remove a small layer of turf on the site and fertile soil. Then, from a depth of 15-20 centimeters, take a small amount (a handful) of soil, slightly moisten it and try to roll it up with your palms. The type of soil can be determined by evaluating the result of rolling:
- rolls normally clay soil;
- cracks and breaks - loam;
- do not roll, the soil breaks up into separate balls - sandy loam;
- crumble without rolling at all - sandy soil.
And do the same at the depth of soil freezing (90 cm).
Farther. Regardless of the type of soil, you can consider the option of the device columnar foundation. The simplest device is columnar foundation according to TISE technology. A special drill with an extension is used there, and if you rent it, then such a foundation can easily be made on your own. The depth of the pillars is 1.5 m, the step is 1.5-2 m. You can read more about such a foundation in the question.
Well, the third option - slab foundation. It's solid monolithic slab. A foundation pit for such a foundation can be made quickly and easily. But such a foundation will be a little more expensive than a strip and column foundation, since more concrete and reinforcement will go into it.
Think, choose, and ask if questions arise in the process.
