What you need for a bas-relief at home. Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall: step-by-step actions for beginners

A bas-relief is a conditionally three-dimensional drawing that adorns the internal and sometimes external walls of a house or apartment. Unlike frescoes and sculptures, the bas-relief is made directly on the wall, thanks to which it fits into the interior or exterior of the house much more organically. In this article we will tell you what tools, knowledge and skills are needed to create a bas-relief, and also give detailed instructions to create such a scenery that will allow you to decorate your home with various paintings.

What skills are needed to create a bas-relief

To create a bas-relief, you will need the following skills:

• draw;
• create three-dimensional images;
• work with alabaster and gypsum mortars;
• create stencils and work with them;
• work with wire and create structures from it.

Any bas-relief is a partially three-dimensional picture, which should create a sense of three-dimensional drawing. If these are leaves and flowers, then they should not be two-dimensional, but create the illusion of volume. If this is a more complex image, then it should also create the illusion of full volume. Therefore, without the ability to create three-dimensional images and draw beautifully, it is better not to even try to make bas-reliefs, because later you will have to eliminate the consequences of your creativity. No less important is the ability to work with gypsum and alabaster mortars, because it is necessary to clearly know the life time of the mortar, the optimal density parameters for various jobs, and the possibility of mixing with dyes.

Indeed, to create a bas-relief, solutions are needed, which, although slightly, differ in density. The ability to create stencils is very important, because without them it is very difficult to outline the contours of a future picture, especially if you do not have great artistic talents and highly qualified plasterer-painter. To create three-dimensional images with a thickness of more than 10 mm, and if the thickness and viscosity of the solution is 5 mm incorrectly selected, it is necessary to create a frame that will prevent cracking of gypsum or alabaster.

Instruments

For work you will need:

• paint brushes of various shapes and sizes, including a brush;
• palette knives; sculptural stacks of different sizes;
• trowel;
• measuring spoons;
• container for mixing putty;
• perforator drill with a set of drills for wood and concrete;
• screwdrivers flat and Phillips;
• pliers;
• clean rags;
• powerful light source;
• strong goats or forests;
• overalls, respirator and goggles.

Wall preparation

Wall preparation includes two stages:

1. alignment;
2. Primer.

During leveling, you plaster the wall with a sand-cement mortar, then level with gypsum or alabaster putties to give it the necessary evenness. If you want to make a bas-relief on wooden wall, you will first have to fix the reinforcing mesh, then plaster. Be sure to use beacons (guides to help make the surface even). For a primer, use acrylic, alabaster or gypsum compositions with a high content of sand - this will create the necessary surface roughness and improve the adhesion of solutions to create a bas-relief. Use only those primers that say they are suitable for alabaster and clay compositions. It is very convenient to apply the primer with a brush-brush due to the large width. When priming the surface of the wall, do not leave streaks, because after drying they will be difficult to clean, and the left streaks will negatively affect appearance bas-relief.

There are no clear recommendations for creating bas-reliefs, because each master uses the combination of actions that is most convenient for him. Some create a bas-relief directly on the wall, others first cast its elements from plaster or alabaster, then fit them into the overall design of the picture. Some make a pseudo-volumetric image with a thin layer of solution, others create completely three-dimensional paintings with a thickness of 30 centimeters or more. It all depends on the qualifications, artistic taste and talent of the master. Nevertheless, we will give one recommendation - in order to fill your hand and not spoil the wall, create a bas-relief on a piece of plywood, chipboard or OSB, which, after completion of work, can be hung on the wall. If something goes wrong and you ruin the bas-relief, then take a new piece of plywood and train on it.

Below we describe several techniques that will help you create beautiful bas-reliefs:

• work with stencils;
• use of sculpted stacks, cutters and loops;
• mold casting;
• fastening the wire frame to the wall;
• film work.

Working with stencils

For a stencil, you can either draw it yourself or download it from the Internet by printing it on paper. After that, you need to decide on the stencil material and its thickness, as well as the manufacturing method, so we recommend using ready-made stencils that can be purchased at stores selling decor goods. The stencil is needed to create the contours of the future picture, after which you can use the stacks to give these contours the desired volume. Working with a stencil is not difficult - place it on the wall and fix it in any way, then fill it with thick plaster or alabaster mortar. Remember, the thicker the stencil, the thicker the solution should be. If you use a solution that is too thin, then after removing the stencil, the contours of the bas-relief will be smeared, so it is advisable to practice on the board first so that you do not have to re-prepare the wall.

Using Sculpting Stacks, Cutters, and Loops

These tools can be purchased from the respective stores. If you have well-developed spatial imagination and artistic skills, then you can effectively use these tools, even without being a professional sculptor. Indeed, with their help, excess solution is removed, giving a certain area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bas-relief the desired shape. Using these tools, you can create any volumetric images, it all depends on your imagination, artistic taste and spatial imagination. These tools will not be superfluous when creating three-dimensional bas-reliefs, because with their help you can trim the edges, giving each layer of the mortar the necessary shape.

mold casting

The use of pre-cast molds greatly simplifies the creation of three-dimensional compositions. For example, leaves are cast in molds, which are then attached to the wall and create the trunk and branches of a tree. The result is that the trunk and branches are part of the wall, while the leaves are separate, which improves the visual perception of the bas-relief and the effect it produces. Shops sell silicone and polyurethane molds of any size and pattern. To create a bas-relief, it is necessary not only to cast molds from gypsum or alabaster, but also to make a reinforcing frame inside them - this will prevent cracking of the resulting part and facilitate fastening to the wall, because not only glue or putty will hold the part, but also wire.

Some forms need to be lubricated with castor oil (this should be written in the instructions for the form), other forms do not need such an operation. For pouring into molds, it is necessary to use a much thinner solution than for working directly on the wall. In most cases, the solution is made similar in density to liquid sour cream, which makes it possible to fill the mold with high quality and ensure good strength of the part. Metal carcass can be inserted into the mold both before and after pouring plaster or alabaster, both methods provide the same strength, so it all depends on personal preference.

Attaching the wire frame to the wall

The wire frame makes it possible not only to fasten heavy hinged decorative elements, but also to prevent cracking of gypsum and alabaster if the layer is too thick (over 7–10 mm), which makes it possible to create figures of great thickness. The thickness of the wire depends on the place of its application and purpose - for fastening external decorative elements use steel wire 2-3 mm thick. It has high strength and rigidity, thanks to which it effectively holds the external structure until the gypsum or alabaster coating dries. To reinforce parts of large thickness, you can use steel wire with a thickness of 0.7–2 mm, which has less rigidity and weight, so it is easier to work with. To attach the wire to the wall, it is convenient to use dowel-nails, for which a hole is drilled under the dowel with a puncher, then 1 turn of wire is wound on a plastic clip and the dowel-nail is hammered to the stop. If you attach the wire to a wooden wall, then the technology is different there - 1 turn of the wire is wound on a wood-carved screw, after which it is screwed into the wall until it stops. If necessary (if you have to use a self-tapping screw of a large length / thickness or the walls are made of solid wood), a hole is drilled in the wall with a diameter 2 times smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw, which makes it easier to screw it in, but does not weaken the fixation in the wall.

Film handling

The film is used to create pseudo-volumetric compositions on a layer of asbestos or alabaster plaster of small thickness. First, a drawing is applied to the film with a marker on a scale of 1: 1, then a layer of plaster 3–6 mm thick is applied to the selected section of the wall and the film is applied on top, orienting the drawing in space. After that, outline the contours of the drawing with a pen and remove the film, and the drawing remains on the plaster layer. Now you can use stacks to clean up the excess, creating the selected pattern and giving it volume.

Gypsum and alabaster, if it comes into contact with the skin, dry it too much, so it is advisable to work with rubber gloves. In addition, be sure to use safety glasses, this will protect you from getting plaster or putty in your eyes. When dosing the solution, pouring it into a mixing container and stirring, wear a respirator - it is not very convenient to work in it, but if you spill the solution or otherwise raise dust, it will protect your bronchi and lungs from damage.

To create a beautiful bas-relief, you need to properly organize the workflow. A powerful light source will help to detect the slightest flaws, so you can easily fix them before the mixture hardens.

If a defect is found after the mixture has solidified, then it will be much more difficult to eliminate it, because the frozen gypsum or alabaster will have to be processed not with stacks, loops or hooks, but with sandpaper. You must learn to "by eye" determine the amount of solution that you can process before solidification, otherwise you will constantly throw out the frozen excess. The life time of the solution depends on its composition and is indicated on the package, the optimal ratio of the dry mixture and water is also indicated there, so correctly determine the amount of solution required for a particular operation, and also adjust its density by changing the amount of water. A clear understanding of the required amount and density of the solution comes only with experience, so first practice on pieces of plywood or chipboard and don’t worry if something doesn’t work out, you will learn over time.

Often such a design technique is usually used to decorate private houses, where the layout includes. At the same time, the decor can act not only in the form, but also as a pattern that surrounds the fireplace. In addition, this interior decoration will look great in door and window openings, the main thing here is to choose right size and invoice. Aerobatics - a decorative bas-relief, which will include the presence of illumination. It will make images more voluminous, giving the impression of 3D graphics.

An important point in using relief decor on the wall is that it does not necessarily have different colors, as is the case with ordinary painting. The main thing here is to correctly select the lighting, this will allow you to get the selection of various edges of the image, using only artificial lighting, as shown in the photo.

There is an erroneous opinion that decorating a house with elements of bas-relief inserts is too expensive pleasure. In fact, how to do it, do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall is quite accessible for beginners. enough to follow closely step by step guide which is presented below. It is complemented by a video that will allow you to answer many questions that arise in the course of work.

Do-it-yourself bas-relief master class for beginners

People who are far from repair often mistakenly think that such an artistic decor is a prefabricated structure, the elements of which are cast from plaster. In fact, it is made by hand, and in its essence is a truly original and unique work of art. Each bas-relief is unique in itself, even if the same sketch is used to create. In principle, creating a three-dimensional drawing on the wall requires certain skills and abilities, as well as careful adherence to technology, however, even beginners can cope with the task.

First you need to decide on the material to create the decor. In this process, you can use various options, for example, plaster, gypsum, alabaster and even clay. However, if you are new to this activity, it is best to start with plaster only for now. IN last resort- gypsum-based plaster.

Master class Do-it-yourself bas-relief of a flower from gypsum putty video

After choosing the material, you should begin to create the so-called base, in which a decorative bas-relief will be created on the wall. To do this, you need to assemble a wooden box with low sides, which will require several slats and plywood as a bottom. The dimensions of the resulting box will match the dimensions of the future decor, this should be taken into account when assembling it. Any box that will have rigid walls and a base can replace the box.

The base of the box should be covered with a film, while it is necessary that there are no wrinkles on it at all, or you should try to keep their number to a minimum. Then you need to start preparing the solution, which should be carried out exclusively according to the manufacturer's instructions. The finished solution is poured into the mold. For tall patterns, you will need wire for reinforcement. After pouring the mixture into the box, leave it alone for the initial drying, the duration of this period depends entirely on the manufacturer's recommendations.

Bas-relief in the interior photo in the apartment

Now you can proceed directly to the manufacture of a bas-relief with your own hands. The main condition here is the creation of the contour of the future ornament, which then needs to be filled with a mixture, which in turn will be prepared anew. The volume of the future decor should be increased stage by stage, while allowing each previous layer to dry properly. You can draw contours on the surface with a film, covering the surface with it, after which the film is removed.

Master class for beginners Bas-relief of a tree video

Stucco will be a very successful material, since it is very convenient to work with it while it is wet. Due to the pliability of the material, it will be quite possible to remove excess plaster, as well as adjust the shape of the future pattern. Also, plaster that is not dry enough is easily sanded. You should not try to immediately perform several layers, since the hardening of each segment is a prerequisite.

In addition, the "beginners' guide to creating artistic wall bas-relief" includes the possibility of creating indentations in the future wall mural. The indentation is created in two available ways:

• Cutting through the material and removing some of it from the finished layout using a chisel.
• Increasing the background around a certain point, which as a result is lower.

Most often, a flower, usually a lily or a tulip, is chosen as the basis for the image in the bas-relief. Creating a lily with your own hands may initially seem like a too difficult task, but in fact, even a beginner can do this process. It is important to follow every step of the process, which guarantees the creation of a successful relief.

Bas-relief paintings on the walls design photo

Often, lilies are applied directly to the wall, without creating a base in the form of a box. In this case, the obligatory moment is the complete closure of the remaining elements of the interior with masking tape to avoid damage. Next, the future base of the drawing must be covered with putty, and then, after waiting for it to dry, apply a primer. It is advisable to use the so-called primer paint as a primer, because, due to its properties, it allows you to get maximum adhesion to the decorative bas-relief elements in the future. This composition dries for about three hours.

Marseilles wax is applied with a trowel, which is a fast-curing material suitable for the starting step. With the help of a film fixed over the entire surface of the future bas-relief, details should be drawn. When fixing the film, do not forget to be able to bend it freely, for this one edge should be left free.

Bas-relief on the wall in the interior photo in the apartment

Initially, you can outline the outlines of the future pattern on the film using a marker. After that, having unfolded the film, one should draw the future lily according to the traces obtained with the help of all the same Marseille wax, which will be the most successful material if the painting goes directly on the wall, without using a substrate.

Usually the wax used in the work is white in color. To diversify the bas-relief, you can further cover the frozen flower with a certain composition. Nevertheless, the main task masters - to give the bas-relief maximum realism. As an end layer decorative finishes lilies can use acrylic paints. We must not forget about the finishing layer, which needs to draw each element of the composition.

Master class how to create a flower on the wall video lesson

As you can see from the guide above, the bas-relief on the wall is an interesting, but time-consuming process to create it yourself. Novice masters will need a little perseverance and attention, as well as strict adherence to technology. The important thing here is to stock up on attention and the necessary tools.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 3 minutes

Since ancient times, people have been trying to decorate the walls of their apartment. One of the types of such decor is voluminous works of art “immersed” in a flat surface, parts of which protrude by no more than half of their size. Many will agree that such a decoration looks much more interesting than ordinary painted or wallpapered surfaces. And the bas-relief, made on the wall with your own hands, will certainly become an object of admiration not only for the owner of the apartment, but also for guests.

What can be decorated with a bas-relief

For many people, when thinking about a bas-relief, photos of the works of famous masters that adorn the facades of buildings or the pedestals of statues immediately pop up in their memory. However, even in the ordinary apartment you can find many places and surfaces on which the bas-relief will look good.

• Bas-relief not big size will be a wonderful surface decoration various items like photo frames, mirrors, decorative panels and boxes. Also, such a finish can be placed on the doors of cabinets, drawers of a chest of drawers, a desk.

• Larger bas-reliefs can decorate doorways and the doors themselves, fireplaces, and the ends of large furniture.
• The wall is a suitable place even for a medium-sized and large-sized bas-relief. Daisies, galloping horses, a snow-covered tree or a flowing waterfall - incredibly beautiful compositions can look harmoniously on the wall in any room, whether it is a dining room or a bedroom.

In addition to the decorative role, the bas-relief can also perform a practical function, for example, successfully mask the unevenness of the wall, engineering communications, create a smooth transition from one functional area to another, or simply distort the space advantageously.

What you need to create a bas-relief with your own hands

Creating a bas-relief is a rather laborious and sometimes time-consuming process. Therefore, the masters of this business ask for a lot of money for their work. If the service of a professional is too expensive, but you really want to decorate the wall, you can try to create a plaster bas-relief yourself. This will require minimal modeling skills, accuracy and perseverance. List necessary materials varies depending on which image and in which area you are going to reproduce. It usually includes the following devices:

1. Various types of brushes and spatulas, pencil, cutter.
2. Masking tape, thick transparent film - used to protect surrounding surfaces or transfer the sketch.
3. Rubber gloves - so as not to stain the skin of the hands.
4. Putty, gypsum, plaster, alabaster - your choice.
5. Auxiliary materials - plasticine, polystyrene, cardboard, pieces of decorative cords. All this can be useful in the process of creating a bas-relief.

If you are starting to work on creating a bas-relief for the first time, it is better not to take on complex project big size. It will be even easier to create a decoration on a separate sheet of drywall, and then fix it to the wall surface.

Of course, before trying to create a bas-relief with your own hands, it will be useful for beginners to watch the master classes on the video. On the Internet you can find detailed descriptions stages of work on creating wall compositions for every taste with a photo.

How to make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands

A step-by-step instruction that allows you to understand how to make a bas-relief on a wall with your own hands includes several mandatory items.

• Work on creating a bas-relief on the surface of the wall should begin with the preparation of a sketch. Print or draw the desired image in full size and evaluate how it looks in the interior. If everything suits you, you can proceed to further actions.
• Clean the surface on which the selected decor element will be located. The best adhesion to gypsum occurs if the wall surface is first leveled, plastered and primed at least twice.
• Put a transparent thick film on a pre-prepared drawing and circle the contours with a marker or pencil.

• Place the film stencil on the treated wall and secure with masking tape. Circle the contours with a hard pencil so that the outlines of the future bas-relief remain on the putty surface of the wall.
• The most difficult and time-consuming stage is the application of plaster or gypsum to the surface and the creation of a three-dimensional image. Small details can be worked out with brushes and even fingers. Stock up on patience!

Once upon a time, interior decoration with stucco and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is only a matter of labor and patience. Achievements modern technologies allow to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco at home for people who do not have an art education, but are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination. Create bas-reliefs like those in fig. below, quite within the power of a patient and attentive amateur.

Bas-reliefs of modern work

New materials

In addition to the traditional material for stucco molding - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco molding can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under the general name "acrylic plasters". How to gain the volume of a bas-relief with building putty compounds can be found in the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Amateurs also use the basic composition of architectural gypsum, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5 by volume. Gypsum and plaster mixture are mixed dry and closed with water, i.e. water is added to the mixture, and not vice versa. Bring to a consistency from dough to yogurt or fat-free kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The density of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

The bas-relief on the wall is made in low relief (top left in the figure) or high relief, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called a high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are molded like a round sculpture (see below). A low bas-relief looks good in any light, except for very dim, and a high relief is more advantageous in diffused light.

Types of bas-reliefs

In residential areas, most often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed bas-relief technique (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to fashion a bas-relief "Klimt Tree", see for example. video tutorial below:

Video: master class bas-relief "Klimt Tree"

The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all the techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become acquainted with them visually, it will be easier for you to understand what follows and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: at one time, the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition "Tree of Life". Her style is so peculiar that the expression "Klimt's tree" has become winged.

The reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the upper figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut deep), which is technically much more complicated. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs a bright and sharp oblique light, because. the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special type of bas-relief - shadow, at the bottom right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and smallest protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. When changing the direction and angle of incidence of light, the pattern changes, up to a change in facial expression during the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: protrusions and depressions become clogged, and from cleaning they lose their shape. The picture fades, blurs, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in ascending order of technical complexity:

• Plastering free, i.e. not initially fixed on the supporting surface, non-removable models;
• Plastering non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because. allow you to get acc. high and low relief, without risking the need to redo all the work again in case of failure;
• Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more laborious, but also suitable for beginners, because. you can pore over the model as much as you like until it is brought to the ideal. In addition, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast in one mold (mould, mold) made according to the model;
• Artistic plaster molding in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires solid skills, but it makes it possible to create large relief panels on the entire wall, with a contour of corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief in 2-4 ways both in place and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of a prefabricated bas-relief - drywall sheet, GKL. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), parts of the overall picture or finished compositions are displayed on separate sheets or their pieces of the desired shape (see figure), and mounted on a leveled wall.

Relief panels

The fastener heads and the joints of the fragments are puttied with the base composition, then they are plastered and rubbed under the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece spoiled by inexperience can be redone without touching the rest. And the bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; it is impossible to fasten a prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, partitions made of PGB, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the supporting base should be stronger than the material of the composition.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require you to acquire some special tools. Not very expensive, but you can not count on the success of work without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once, if you turn it inside out, and the dried residues fly off in the same way. The bas-relief will be stronger and more beautiful, the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the start of setting. The kneading ball reduces the wastage of shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from the ball, because. there are no corners inside. For the same reason, the batch turns out to be more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors in the final artistry of the bas-relief.

Tools for making gypsum bas-reliefs

Next, you will need spatulas for modeling - palette knives. Set of 6 (pos. 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For the formation of bunches of grapes, scales, etc. still need convex-concave spatulas. Sets with such are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) For a set of 48 items, so lovers often use spoons of different sizes instead (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, you can’t just bring out a low relief with spoons, the bend of the handle interferes. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons of aluminum and other plastic metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle at the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, a concave spatula is obtained.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To get concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter at the scoop itself, twisted and bent back when heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters clean them off old paint from the palette, and the sculptors trim the edges, cut off the burr, induce a fine texture. A palette knife is perfectly replaced by a wide shoe knife.

Next essential tool- a confectionery syringe with nozzles (pos. 3 and 4) and, possibly, a 20 ml medical syringe without a needle. It is highly desirable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (pos. 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are far from being as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, how cakes are decorated, everyone has seen) holding it with 2 hands; hold the tool at the tip with the left.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes different sizes and the same number of round ones, the cheapest ones, made of bull's-ear bristles. It makes no sense to buy expensive squirrel and kolinsky for a bas-relief "steepness for the sake of", they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for drawing. Brushes induce texture (see below) and gypsum small areas of the bas-relief.

Working with the tool and caring for it

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before a set of the next portion of the mixture. Remains and drips on the working body are a guarantee of spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered in parts into water; palette knives with brushes are also placed there. When the tool sours, the remnants of working materials are thoroughly washed off from it. clean water. By the way, a properly cared for confectionery syringe after working on a bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be kept absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technologies

The creation of a bas-relief on the walls in the apartment (or on sheets of plasterboard, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

• The base surface is cleaned of the old finish, leveled with an accuracy of at least 2 mm / m, primed and covered with a base composition or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL under the prefabricated bas-relief does not require alignment;
• A background texture is applied to the base coat: with a foam or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coat is decorative plaster, texturing and toning is not required;
• In one way or another (from the above and described below), a relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, toning is possible similar to that for the base;
• If necessary, after complete drying, the relief is painted on top. It is convenient to do surface staining with special paints for gypsum stucco - they are immediately shaded into very thin halftones with a damp sponge. Sharper color transitions will give acrylic paints;
• The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in hardware stores). Paints on dried plaster moldings fade, as on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their colors;
• After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tone stucco?

From the video above it is clear that you need to form a stucco bas-relief in layers. To tint the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, layers are applied thin, 1-2 mm each. Usually, layers of kneading the density of low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. The batch for each layer is tinted with color (pigment) for gypsum; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree, a brown pigment is taken in ever-decreasing concentration, and for leaves, green is added as it moves outward. The next layer is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. The texture with shades can be applied immediately with a brush or then rubbed with sandpaper-zero or, rough on large areas, with a metal brush. For more information about toning plaster moldings, see the next video.

Video: how to cover the bas-relief on the wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create high floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using as a model an inverted and lanolin-lubricated plate or bowl, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The stock solution described above is not used. It is strong, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, tinting is not applied due to excessive material consumption; finished elements are painted.

For gypsum, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural gypsum is prepared. A model (an artificial flower, a napkin) is dipped into it and placed on a board covered with a plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution sets, it is dipped again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.

Drying artificial flowers during the plastering process

Flowers for drying are placed each time in the same position. Thus, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glue with acrylic plaster of sour cream density or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering in place

This is perhaps the most affordable way to make, say, a stucco ceiling for a chandelier (see Fig.) without experience. Plastering a model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and plastered with a brush. Gypsum mortar is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, layers will be required up to 10-15 or more.

Stucco ceiling under the chandelier

The main snag here is the material of the model. Usually they are made of polystyrene, penofol, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time, they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but anyway, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown spots that cannot be removed begin to appear on the stucco molding. Therefore, models for plastering in place are best sculpted from salt dough, the same one that is made from Christmas decorations with your own hands. To plaster, stone and other mineral building materials salt dough is glued with acrylic glue or any mounting glue. Stucco molding on non-removable models from salt dough retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, which allows you to get results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic gypsum backcasting procedure is shown step by step on the left in fig., pos. a-e. Model 1 made of gypsum, plasticine, plastic, etc., or a model product that is desirable to be repeated/replicated, is placed on a flat board 2. Now, to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the board is covered with a film.

Reverse casting from plaster

Then the model is smeared with a thin layer of lanolin. It is undesirable to use medical vaseline, the model may stick to the mold. Gypsum and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is smeared several times, allowing the lanolin to soak for an hour or two, until a solid oily sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough density with a thickness of approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffeners 5. Seized and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with bundles 7 of thin copper wire.

The next step is to coat with 9 thick cement-sand mortar from M150 with a layer up to 5 and a few more cm thick, this already turns out to be a casting mold. Here you need to remember to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After a set time of 3/4 strength with a cement-sand mortar (7-20 days, depending on external conditions), the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, if the shield was covered film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, the inner surface of the mold is cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. Flash is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its inner edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is smeared with lanolin, like a model. The casting mass fills the mold layer by layer. As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyelets with a mustache are inserted into it (top right in the figure), for which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebb lugs can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already sitting tightly in the penultimate one, i.e. when it is quite firm, but still slightly moist. It is unacceptable to test the strength of the fit of the lugs by rocking!

Currently for circulations up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way, they don’t pour from gypsum, the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). The model prepared, as in the previous. In this case, silicone is poured over in layers, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold allows you to obtain castings with shallow recesses, it is elastic and stretchable.

Gypsum Mini Reverse Casting

Also, small rounded gypsum parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., up to small fish. In this case, a tray-flask is molded from plasticine, the model is also molded from plasticine. Silicone is poured into the flask all at once; the flask and the model are not smeared with anything. After the silicone hardens, the flask is simply torn off, and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini - reverse casting of gypsum.

…and not vice versa

The mini-gypsum casting already uses a model to be removed; in a sense, the model disappears and for the next batch of castings it needs to be done again. A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting according to an investment model, then it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings from it, but already convex, without cavities. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a box without a bottom made of plywood 2-3 cm higher than the height of the model and the size is such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a shield covered with foil. Then they put a flask and cover the gap along the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is layer-by-layer doused with silicone, as in the previous. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the flask is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, the plywood bottom is stuffed. The model is smelted with a household hair dryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not give.

Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve the maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can buy them without signing up for the evening department of an art university or courses. It is enough to practice with plasticine; the technique is the same, only in working with gypsum time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it sets. Technically, gypsum modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

The technique of flat gypsum modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules are like this. First, the material of the thickness of the dough or fatty sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed out, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. Third, the next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. Fourth, as the layers build up, they move to more small tool. And fifth, in each layer, work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thickest and roughest. In this case, from the denticles of the leaf to its petiole.

Low plaster molding

Branches on bas-reliefs are best removed with a confectionery syringe or, very thin, medical. The thickness of the branches is regulated by pressing the piston more and more weakly (pos. 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is induced with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plastered as a non-removable model in place.

Branches on plaster bas-reliefs

Strongly winding branches (pos. 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of sour cream density, laying it out on a shield covered with foil, along the contour, and after drying, sticking it on the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, the cord is laid out immediately, it will dry firmly. To get branches of decreasing thickness, part of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then one is left. If the cord shines through the plaster, the branch is plastered in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted batches. The desired color is obtained by grouting with a zero sandpaper.

sharp ribs

In the pictures with bas-reliefs, you probably saw sharp ribs. They are formed by the folded thumb and forefinger, and the large ones are formed by the fingers bent back of both palms folded. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly shifting/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion along the rib formation. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

The basis of round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living being. Information about skeletons can be obtained from any course in the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is not a discipline of medical, but of art education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to heal, and is designed for listeners who are not disposed to the subtleties and rigors of science.

Figure height approx. from 30-40 cm is molded along the frame as shown in pos. 1 fig. For smaller figures, the frame is simplified (pos. 2), but following the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide the height by 8; 1/8 of its part will be a dimensional module of a harmonious human body, pos. 3.

Plaster molding on the frame

Frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (pos. 4a and 4b). It is desirable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with fixing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

• The base frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together with a winding of thin copper wire, and even better - soldering.
• Rolls of a medical bandage are soaked in a liquid, like fat-free kefir, gypsum solution, as for gypsum fractures of limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage starts to peel off badly from the skein, it means that the gypsum began to harden and the rest of the roll went to waste.
• After the plastered frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (toning can be used), adjusted in shape and texture with a tool and sandpaper, and plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. convenient to use thin and small metal mesh. Another option is the branches of the main branches, pasted over with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for home-made high reliefs are molded separately; locally is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface - resp. plane so that the figures can be glued into place.

How to fix bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If for 1 sq. dm. its supporting area accounts for more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm driven into plastic dowels are best suited for this. Attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten. The mass of the bas-relief above the protruding fixing pin should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Superbas-relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need is a piece of drywall with a layer of fresh stock solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. From the edges of the tip of the nail, you need to carefully remove the flash to get the correct 4-sided pyramid.

We prepare the sample as follows: we prick with a nail with a slight slope along the still plastic GKL coating even rows of holes in a checkerboard pattern and close to each other. The slope of the nail and the orientation of the edges of its point relative to the directions of the rows must be maintained as accurately as possible so that the holes are equally asymmetrical.

The next step is to take the sample into direct sunlight and, turning this way and that, and somehow, we observe the play of chiaroscuro. At the same time, we try to imagine how it would be necessary to prick the holes in order to get a changing pattern. And, who knows, maybe you will find the ability to this rare, but extraordinarily spectacular art - shadow bas-relief.

Volumetric images on the wall can become an original decoration of the interior. Unlike moldings (decorative overlays), they are created only by hand. Making a high-quality bas-relief is painstaking work, but with a strong desire and the presence of at least elementary modeling skills, you can create it yourself. Beginners can use stencils.

Materials and tools

To create a bas-relief you will need:
sketch of the future image;
pencil, marker;
plastic sheets for creating stencils;

Bas-relief stencil

masking tape;
color or paint for gypsum solutions (if the bas-relief is colored);
paint brush;
palette knives: steel or plastic blades used to create textured and embossed images;

Palette knives

Gypsum, plaster, clay, alabaster or other plastic material.

Gypsum kneading

Create a sketch

Even if the work will be done using stencils, it is necessary to make a life-size sketch of it to check how the drawing will fit with the rest of the decor of the room. You may have to correct it - remove the excess or, on the contrary, add details to close some gaps. The finished drawing is transferred on tracing paper or thin film.

Transferring an image to film

For beginners, it is better not to use too voluminous images with multi-stage relief. A large flower or a composition of several flowers, fruits or berries, branches with leaves, the simplest contours of animals, birds, etc. will look quite original on the wall.

A three-dimensional image may consist of several simple details transferred to the wall using a stencil

Surface preparation

The bas-relief is performed on a pre-leveled and plastered surface. To increase adhesion to gypsum or plaster, it primed at least 2 times. indoors with high humidity it is better to use an antifungal composition.

So that the wall does not look perfectly flat, you can apply a base of acrylic putty or satengipsa(fine-grained gypsum). To obtain a relief surface after applying the solution, the wall is treated with a roller or spatula with chaotic strokes. A fairly original and convex pattern can be obtained even with crumpled paper or film.

Obtaining a relief surface using a wrinkled film

Venetian plaster

Creation uneven surface with a spatula

Looks very original bas-relief with backlight. In order not to damage the image and not cover it with dust, it is better to install lamps for it in advance.

Volumetric image on the wall with backlight

Bas-relief lamp

Making a bas-relief

1. To move sketch on the wall, you should fix the carbon paper on it, and then attach the drawing on top with masking tape. Places of gluing in the future are carefully rubbed.

2. You can transfer the sketch to the wall in another way. To do this, a small layer of solution is applied to it, a drawing is applied, and its contour is outlined with a palette knife with a pointed end, a match or a toothpick.

3. If the bas-relief is voluminous, it is better to twist it in the thickest places of the image self-tapping screws. They will act as reinforcement, preventing the image from crumbling.

4. Material for stencils should be thick enough. Moreover, the more voluminous the bas-relief is, the greater the thickness of the stencil should be. It should be removed very carefully so as not to damage the image. A damaged bas-relief can be corrected at any time.

Advice. You can remove minor irregularities and flaws after the plaster or gypsum has completely dried. To do this, along the edges of the picture, you should walk with fine sandpaper.

5. Convex images can also be obtained using wall mounts cardboard blanks or pieces of foam, followed by coating with a solution. It will hold on stronger if the blanks are pre-treated with a primer.

The blank for the bas-relief can be fixed on self-tapping screws

6. Additional strength to large elements of the image can be given with a regular or plaster bandage soaked in a solution. You can buy it at any pharmacy.

Plaster bandage

7. Plaster, gypsum or alabaster are diluted with water according to the instructions. The solution is thoroughly mixed.

8. Mortar is applied to the wall in several layers. Each subsequent layer should be performed after the previous one has completely dried.

Drawing an image with a palette knife

9. Convex parts are rolled out with your fingers, and then attached to the wall, slightly pressed down and leveled.

Bas-relief of grapes

10. The last layer of the image is best done from a finishing (fine) putty, which is easy to grind.

11. Drawing small lines and sealing cracks is done at the end of all work.

12. Thin veins on leaves and flowers can be applied with a medical syringe.

13. The finished drawing is covered with a primer. Such a topcoat will not allow plaster or gypsum to crumble.

Advice. So that the bas-relief does not crack when it dries, it should be periodically moistened with a damp brush.

Entrance door decoration

14. You can colorize the image with the most different ways: like using adding acrylic paint colors directly into the solution, and by applying paints for gypsum mortars with an art brush. Excess paint is removed with a damp sponge.

coloring image

Advice. You can get subtle color transitions when applying paint to a still wet bas-relief.

Finished Image

Terra technique

Work in this technique does not require special skills. Just stock up ahead of time. dry branches, herbs, flowers or ears of corn. You can also use sand, cereals, noodles, small stones, etc.

On primed with PVA glue wall (it should be diluted in a ratio of 1: 1), using the same PVA, a composition of dry plants is pressed. After the composition has completely dried, the drawing is covered with glue several more times, and then processed acrylic paint or finishing putty.

Advice. If you treat the foliage and flowers that have not yet turned yellow with glycerin, they can be preserved. In this case, real color pictures of herbs and leaves can be created on the wall. So that they do not crumble, they are treated several times with PVA glue.

Bas-relief of sunflowers treated with glycerin