Here are some tips.
- Sometimes floor irregularities can be corrected by placing a strip of fiberboard or chipboard under the cabinet.
- With a slightly sloping floor, a suitable solution to the problem is to put the wardrobe on adjustable legs, perfectly align the bottom, and then close the legs with a beveled plinth.
- If the curvature of the walls is insignificant, it is not necessary to align them, and the door can be tilted to the desired angle using the adjusting screws.
- A common wardrobe problem is poor door movement. Possible cause there may be loose lower rollers. This is easy to fix. At the ends of the vertical frames at the very bottom under the brush (schlegel) there are two holes each. One of them is designed to adjust the lower wheels in height, this is done using a hexagon. By adjusting the lower wheels, you can not only raise or lower the doors by 2-3 cm, but also align the door if it is warped and does not fully adhere to the side panel of the cabinet.
- Even with a deviation of 5 mm, you can forget about the interchangeability of doors, because. each door is adjustable on its side wall. When moving the door to a neighboring place, an angular gap is obtained between it and the second side wall. That's why the built-in wardrobe is so important smooth walls. Also, interchangeability of doors cannot be achieved if the floor is sloping or has a wavy shape.
- Additional floor inside the closet not only decorative element, but also a way to level the main floor.
- Ceilings must either be aligned for the installation of a built-in wardrobe, or order a wardrobe with a ceiling. For even a slight curvature of the ceiling makes the cabinet doors move “heavy”. Similarly, the smoother the floor, the better the doors roll.
- With the curvature of the walls, you will have to install an L-shaped false panel, which is adjusted to the irregularities of the wall. As a rule, this is the only way to align the wardrobe with uneven walls and semi.
- The difference between the vertical dimensions of the sides of the cabinet should not exceed 20 mm. If it is impossible to align, there is only one way out - to install a false panel, podium or roof.
Really on my own assemble wardrobe It's not that hard if you follow a certain sequence.
Assembling the cabinet cabinet basic principles
Decide how you will assemble the wardrobe - in a lying or standing position
Take one of the extreme household walls of the cabinet and lift it up as if you are lifting the assembled cabinet, keep in mind that the height of the sliding wardrobe will be higher with a false roof.
If the side wall does not touch the ceiling with an angle, then the cabinet can be assembled in a supine position, which will facilitate the nailing of the fiberboard, and it will be quite easy to assemble the sliding wardrobe.
Install end caps or mortise fittings in the side walls
Front wardrobe assembly lay out the parts in the order of use during assembly, drive in the tips or screw the mortise supports into the side walls.
Why do we need tips or supports - if the side walls are installed immediately on the floor, then when washing the floors, there will be direct contact between the chipboard and water and, accordingly, the edge will peel off and the chipboard will swell.
Install plastic adjustable feet
The plastic supports are the same as in the kitchens, and allow you to adjust the sliding wardrobe in height during assembly. In addition to this function, when the sliding wardrobe is loaded, the supports will not allow the bottom of the sliding wardrobe to fail and break.
Although there is another approach: the sidewalls rest on the bottom of the cabinet, and the bottom on the basement box or placed immediately with the bottom on the floor. You can also find such designs.
The size of the indentation of the supports from the rear edge of the bottom depends on the width of the plinth and is about 50 mm. A plinth is fastened to the front supports on clips, everything is very similar as in the kitchen. By the way, the plinth is also an additional support for the bottom of the closet.
The installation depth of the front supports depends on how much you want to “sink” the base, usually about 30 mm.
Sequence of assembly of the cabinet cabinet
The cabinet must begin to be assembled by connecting the side wall to the bottom. First, assemble the structure according to the drawing. This design has already a certain stability and rigidity. If you do not follow this rule, then the side walls and the wardrobe will tilt and tear out the confirmations, breaking the bottom and partitions.
The last element to be installed is the cabinet roof.
| Rice. eight. Installing the wardrobe roof |
Nailing the back wall of fiberboard to the wardrobe
The sequence of screwing the back wall when assembling the wardrobe
Fiberboard is screwed along the perimeter of the cabinet, to intermediate vertical walls and horizontal walls.
Before screwing the fiberboard, it is necessary to set the cabinet diagonally so that the diagonal A \u003d B. A diagonal discrepancy of a maximum of 5 mm is allowed, otherwise there will be problems when installing drawers and doors.
Fiberboard begin to fasten on top, check the diagonals. If the diagonals are uneven, then align with a slight pressure on the side wall.
After checking the diagonals, we fix one of the corners and check the diagonals again. If the diagonal "left", then unscrew the corner and set the diagonals again. Further fasten fiberboard along the perimeter of the cabinet and the axes of the internal filling parts. Screwing pitch 150-200mm.
In the lower guide, it is enough to make 2-4 holes along the axis.
Fastening of the upper and lower rails for compartment doors
First, we fix the top rail so that it does not protrude beyond the side wall of the closet.
Big bookcase it is not always possible to immediately install reliably and firmly. It is a bookcase, or a wardrobe, a heavy construction and it is necessary to secure it thoroughly in order to protect it from tipping over.
It often happens that the instability of furniture is associated with a not very reliable support. The cabinet standing on the carpet will still stagger a little. This is due to the softness of the coating and the possibility of displacement of the carpet under load. There are several simple ways secure the cabinet in place.
For work you will need: Tape measure, hammer, screwdriver, drills, cutter or knife.
You will need to prepare self-tapping screws, dowel nails, foot pads or adjustable supports, if desired, fixing a furniture strap from the store.
1. We put the thrust bearings.
We measure the width of the cabinet along the legs or plinth and the distance from the wall to the corners of the plinth.
We move the cabinet to the side, raise the carpet and, in the places where the corners of the base are marked, cut out small squares on the lining under the carpet. In the places where the legs are installed, we lay thrust bearings made of plywood or other sheet material.
2. Adjustable legs.
The hardest thing to expose furniture if the floor is uneven. You have to put a dense material under the legs to level the structure. This job can be made easier and much more reliable. To do this, you need to buy adjustable furniture supports (gliders) in a hardware store.
The supports in question have a rod on top that is simply inserted into a pre-drilled socket on the cabinet legs. Adjustment is made with a screw, both before installation and in a standing piece of furniture. The only inconvenience concerns the design, a cabinet with supports will stand above the floor and a gap will appear from below.
3. We fix to the wall.
In a large family with small children, cabinets need to be fixed more thoroughly. Often children use furniture shelves for their climbs and there is a high risk of tipping over.
This is not as insignificant as it may seem, hundreds of such cases leading to injuries are noted annually.
To fix furniture to the wall, there are special belts that are sold in specialized stores. More simple and cheap way consists in pulling the cabinet to the wall using self-tapping screws or dowel nails. It will take only three to four dowels screwed through the back wall and the cabinet will be securely fixed.
Photo familyhandyman.com
The evenness of the walls in our panel dwellings has long been a proverb. At the same time, the furniture that we make (install) has rather strict geometric proportions. if this discrepancy is not so critical for cabinet furniture, then built-in furniture should and should be such, that is, there should not be large gaps between the cabinet wall and the wall of the room.
But what if the wall has a convex or concave shape, and, for example, the cabinet rack is perfectly straight? We will talk about this in this article using the example of a built-in wardrobe that I installed in my children's room.
So, the first step is to set the part in place according to the level strictly vertically. The photo is visually a little different, but this is an artistic idea .... The bubble betrays the true state of affairs!
It can be seen that the rack is adjacent to the wall ... hmm, not very good. There are gaps. 
Now the markup. We take a simple washer with a diameter of 20 mm (you can use any other one - I had one at hand) and a pencil. We lay the washer on the part, put a pencil in the inner hole and roll it along the wall. At the same time, the pencil rolls along the inner surface of the washer, repeating all the irregularities of the wall. 
Now let's move on to the fitting itself. To do this, we need a jigsaw, a belt sander and, preferably, a vacuum cleaner.
We remove the part, put it on a stand (I used a couple of stools) and first roughly (with an electric jigsaw - I use metal files for this - they leave fewer chips) we remove the material along the marking line. 
You may have to repeat the manipulation. The photo is not the first stage, I already applied it once, marked it out and filed it (because the gap is about 2 cm, and the washer allows you to mark only 7 mm.
The cut is far from ideal. 
Then we pick up a belt sander and remove the material to the marking line, at the same time getting rid of laminate chips. 
A vacuum cleaner in an apartment (and it is there that the adjustment is carried out) is a mandatory device. With him, everything flows quite cleanly.
As a result, we should get a rack with a smooth, but not even edge, corresponding to the profile of the wall. 
We apply the part to the wall and repeat the manipulations until a satisfactory, in your opinion, result is achieved. 
If the doors of your cabinet are warped, then be sure to immediately call the master. You can deal with this problem yourself at home. There are several options for possible "distortions": the cabinet doors do not close or they are crooked.
Doors don't close
First, open the door to provide free access to the hinges. You will need a Phillips screwdriver to adjust them. You can adjust the doors up and down and left and right. Each of these directions is carried out differently.
To adjust up and down, loosen the top and bottom bolts. This should be done slowly and at the same time carefully monitor the level of the doors. Also, be sure to hold the door with your hand when loosening the bolts, otherwise it may fall.
To adjust the door left and right, unscrew the screw, which is located closer to the door. As a result, the gap between the doors should be uniform.
Crooked doors
This is the most common problem. For example, this can happen when moving a cabinet from one place to another. Over time, the fasteners themselves may loosen, which will result in a skewed door in the cabinet.
First you need to determine the cause of the skewed door. Perhaps this is due to improper installation or assembly of the cabinet. To determine, a building level is used, with the help of which they check whether the diagonals are equal and whether the body is skewed.
Video: adjusting cabinet doors
If everything is correct, and the uneven gap remains, then it is necessary to level them to the left or right with a Phillips screwdriver. If the level at which the doors are fixed is different, then they will have to be adjusted in height. This uses a level.
These tips will help you quickly adjust the hinges on your cabinet doors. If you are not sure which problem you have, then check first one direction, then the other. It is necessary to carry out adjustment gradually, constantly checking all actions.
Do-it-yourself wardrobe door adjustment
Adjustment of wardrobe doors You can make your own - it's not that hard. Stages of wardrobe adjustment. To begin with, you should pay attention to the verticality of the side edges of the doors. Their correct position is strictly vertical. If there is no such provision, it is considered a defect and must be eliminated. Adjustment of the side edge is made using a bracket with a bolt, which is located at the bottom of the door next to the moving mechanisms. The vertical position of the door is achieved by turning the bolt. A full turn of it clockwise will lower this edge of the door by about 1 mm, and, accordingly, rotation in the opposite direction will raise it by the same amount.
It is better to adjust the doors with a 4 mm hex wrench. After adjusting the verticality, the adjacency adjustment begins. It is required when the door does not fit snugly against the side post. Adjustment occurs by changing the position of the bracket. It is located near the vertical adjustment point or in the middle of the side surface of the door. Turning the adjustment bolt will change the position of the sash. You should constantly check the tightness of the abutment and, as soon as the correct position is found, stop the adjustment. Some types of wardrobes have a different configuration.
For example, the position of rail operated doors will be changed by raising or lowering the rail itself. In STERKH cabinets, the bracket is located in the middle part of the cabinet on the lock of the sealing frame. The main indicators of the correct position of compartment doors is the smoothness of their course. During opening and closing, no extraneous squeaks or sounds should be heard, the door should move strictly horizontally, without wave-like movements.
