A new place for berries is the key to a good harvest, because everyone knows that the old bush begins to bear fruit poorly in the third year, and in the fourth year the fruits will be small and unsweetened. That is why it is necessary to constantly rejuvenate your garden, as well as eliminate old bushes in order to increase the yield per unit area. The land under strawberries is greatly depleted, especially for fertilizers, which are drawn out by plants to the last macromolecule.
When transplanting, you must first select the bushes that you will plant and leave to harvest. Of course, the old ones will no longer fit, despite the fact that their stems are large and beautiful in appearance - berries cannot be found there even during the day with fire in the fourth year of fruiting. "First-years" will also not give you the result you need, since the best you can expect from them is a few berries on the entire bush per season. Only last year's bushes begin to "work", so the change of their place of growth is carried out periodically once a year. Thus, bushes of the second and third years will constantly bear fruit, and 75% of them (you simply throw away 25% of old plants, so they do not go into the general statistics).
It is necessary to transplant to another bed, since the problem is not only a lack useful substances and fertilizers, but also in pests - a lot of them multiply in 3-4 years in one place. The soil for strawberries should be "fresh", that is, after other plants. Legumes are excellent precursors - they saturate the earth with a variety of phosphorus and nitrogen macromolecules and organic substances. After peas and beans, the berries grow very well and almost never get sick.
It is simply necessary to dig up a new bed, fertilize with compost and organic matter, and this must be done a few months before transplanting the plants themselves. It is best to cover the earth with sawdust or agrofiber so that moisture is retained and saturated for the entire period - beneficial bacteria develop better in wet soil.
The bed for strawberries must be decontaminated. Do not use a site where potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes or varieties of pumpkin and cabbage have grown before. Firstly, they deplete the soil quite strongly, and secondly, they have many pests and diseases that can be transmitted to strawberries.
When is it better to transplant strawberries - in spring or in autumn?
It is very difficult to choose the time when strawberries can be transplanted, since the plant has a weak vitality and takes root for a very long time under adverse conditions. You can plant young bushes in spring, summer and even autumn - this is not the main indicator that will affect their subsequent productivity and adaptation (adaptation) in a new place. The only thing that cannot be done in the context of time is to transplant at the beginning of May or, even worse, at the end of April - the vegetative mass is gaining very slowly and new bushes often get sick.
In everything else, time plays a very small role. Let us consider in more detail the factors that affect the time of transplanting berries:
- The weather must be cloudy and cool, no more than +20 degrees. In the heat, the leaves fall off, burn, the plant withers, and the roots very slowly begin to absorb moisture. The survival rate of bushes is 50% higher if you work in cool and humid weather, even despite watering.
- Length of a sunny day. Although the amount of light plays a rather important role in the development of berries, it is best for the stem and roots when there is little sun, especially if you are planting it for the first year and simply do not count on the fruits yet.
- Irrigation availability. If you have strawberry drip irrigation on the site, then you can transfer the plants at almost any time, the main thing is to constantly saturate the soil. If you rely on precipitation only, then follow the above rules.
- The presence of a "shade". This is a special mesh, which, as a rule, is made of ordinary polyethylene, mostly black or green. It allows you to scatter half (or more, depending on what you choose) of the sunlight and protect you from the stinging rays.
According to many gardeners, transplanting strawberries in the spring is a very bad idea. This is best done in the fall, as sap movement is reduced in the stem, there is less daylight and less maintenance is required. The ideal time is the end of August or the beginning of September, but they are often planted at the end of October - it all depends on how big the bushes are already. If they are strong, then you can plant them even 4 weeks before frost - nothing bad will happen to strawberries.
The main thing to remember is one simple thing - never dig up bushes in advance, especially a few days in advance. The roots literally begin to die off in a couple of hours, and during the subsequent planting they will take root in a new place for a very long time, and the plant will lag behind in development.
Transplantation - process features
For propagation of strawberries, they take a socket from the first mustache, since the subsequent ones are already very small and do not have the necessary nutrients for a good winter.
The most important procedure is digging. For this, as a rule, 2 shovels are used, they are driven from different sides of the bush, thus separating it from all the others. It is necessary to leave 5-6 centimeters of earth on all sides, so you get a rectangle or pyramid, the top of which is directed into the soil. All lateral roots that absorb nutrients will be preserved and, along with this piece of earth, are transplanted to a new place.
If everything is done quickly, within half an hour, then very often the stem and leaves do not even have time to wither and grow in the same way as before. There is no point in cutting the roots, since you will do it yourself with a shovel when you dig them out. Before planting in a new hole, you can add a little manure and other organic matter to it - they will not interfere.
Watering strawberries is one of the main procedures. The pits must be plentifully saturated with water, after placing the plant in a new place, it must be filled with water for a long time and abundantly so that the roots are in the soaked earth and quickly give lateral processes. You can use watering with sprayers, turntables, drip and other types - there is no difference, the main thing is that the soil is very wet.
Pre-fertilization and preparation of a new site
Separately, it is necessary to say a few words about the preparation of a new site, so that the "housewarming" of the berries goes as well as possible. It is necessary to prepare it for 8-9 months. Contribute organic fertilizers so that they can break down. But, as a rule, no one observes such deadlines and, at best, processing begins 2-3 months in advance. It is imperative to dig up the site, despite the timing and time of the year, while first fertilizing with orthophosphorus fertilizers, manure and saltpeter, and then digging up.
For 1 sq.m. you need to make: 3 kg of manure, 100 grams of orthophosphorus fertilizers, 50 grams of ammonium nitrate. It’s not bad if there was green manure on the site (green fertilizers, they are also weeds and leaves, they are also the remains of tops and other organic “garbage” that is lying around in the front garden), as it is best suited as a fertilizer for perennial berries.
Strawberries need a large amount of potash fertilizers, which are applied both during planting and during growth. Therefore, just before transplanting the berries, it is necessary to pour 20-30 grams of potash fertilizers directly into the pit. They will contribute to the development of the vegetative mass and allow you to accumulate as many useful substances as possible for wintering.
The earth should be loosened, slightly acidic and loamy - just such a soil will satisfy all the requirements. As mentioned above, it is better if the predecessors were legumes, then there is no need to fertilize with nitrogen, and there will be much less weeds.
In some cases, the soil still needs to be treated with copper sulfate, especially if the predecessors were cereals, potatoes or beets.
Transplanting strawberries in the fall is one of the important steps in plant care. In order to properly plant seedlings in a new place, so that the bushes take root well and subsequently bear good fruit, you should know certain rules of agricultural technology for growing berry crops.
It must be remembered that for a stable and rich harvest, you should decide when to transplant strawberries to a new place, what care should be taken for plantings.
Important information is that berry bushes should be planted annually, by any convenient way, and it is necessary to transplant to another place every four years, otherwise the fruiting will deteriorate significantly, the plant will often be exposed to diseases and pests.
The right time for planting and transplanting bushes
Every beginner gardener would like to know optimal timing when the seedlings are ready to be planted or transplanted. What is the optimal time for planting berry bushes in a new place of growth? Strawberries can be planted or planted in a new place in mid-spring, in the second half of August or in autumn.
But most experienced summer residents prefer to plant seedlings in the fall. They argue that it will be better for strawberries, that care at this time is easier, since watering is carried out by rainwater, and the soil will no longer dry out like that.
A strawberry transplant in the spring is also well suited for this plant, since at this time the berry bushes can better take root, quickly and correctly begin to grow and develop. But a significant disadvantage in planting seedlings in the spring is that this year the plant will not bear fruit, since the first buds of inflorescences will form only on next year.
The optimal time for planting bushes correctly in autumn is the second decade of September. Why is it better to plant at this time:
- the soil still retains heat;
- the ground is moist, and watering is often carried out with rainwater, and this is better for plants than watering from other sources;
- even at low temperatures at night or in the morning, the soil retains a warm temperature;
- before winter comes, garden strawberry seedlings will have time to get stronger and grow leaves, and the plant will need them for optimal wintering.
Therefore, each gardener chooses the time when to transplant strawberries for himself individually. But you need to remember that when transplanted in the fall, plants have the opportunity to gain strength before wintering, it is better to take root, so many summer residents prefer.
According to experts, seedlings that are transplanted in the autumn endure the winter better, and will already bloom in the spring. The first fruiting will not be too plentiful, but next year it will definitely be possible to harvest a good harvest.
What place do seedlings like
Before planting young bushes, you should decide on the landing site. Strawberry seedlings do not require special growing conditions, but they prefer light, loose, sandy-loamy or clay soil.
Before planting strawberries, you should fertilize with minerals, a mixture of peat and mullein, wood ash. Due to the saturation with useful elements, the harvest will be plentiful and stable. Such care is an important step in growing strawberries.
It is better to plant strawberries after legumes, onions, garlic, lettuce, parsley, dill, radishes, carrots or beets. Care is not only about regular feeding and watering. Care involves regular weeding and loosening of the soil.
When planning the autumn planting of strawberries, you can plant onions or garlic in advance on the intended site, green manure - lupins or cereals. You should not plant strawberry bushes in the place where nightshade, cabbage, cucumbers used to grow.
How to plant strawberries correctly
When planting young seedlings, the harvest can be harvested only after a year. For abundant fruiting, two-year-old bushes can be planted. It is important to follow the planting algorithm - seedlings are dug up immediately before planting in a new place. If this does not work out, the root system is wrapped in a cloth heavily moistened with water and left until planting begins.
Each seedling should have well-developed roots, at least 5 centimeters long, it is better that there are 3 leaves on the bush.
The soil must be prepared 30 days before transplanting. Proper maintenance is carried out, the required amount of fertilizer is applied to the soil.
You can use organic fertilizers, potassium sulfate, superphosphate. And instead of these ingredients, you can purchase a special complex composition for. After fertilizing the soil, it should rest for two weeks. After the earth settles a little, the beds are ready for planting seedlings.
It is recommended to transplant in the evening or on cloudy days. Plants can be planted in several lines, the interval between the bushes should be at least 30 centimeters, the row spacing should be 40 centimeters. It is optimal to dig holes of such a depth that will correspond to the length of the root system.
Water should be poured into the prepared hole to the very surface of the soil, then the seedling is lowered into it. root system covered with soil and carefully compacted. After planting all the bushes, the beds should be mulched.
Young plants can also be planted using agrofiber. Only pre-spread the material, make holes in it, which will be located above the holes. After the done manipulations, young bushes are planted in the finished holes.
It is important to fix the covering material around the edges. Agrofibre will be an excellent protection against low temperatures, from sudden changes in temperature, to prevent the emergence of weeds and diseases.
Do not forget that landing under agrofibre also requires certain rules care. Care consists in watering, feeding, trimming the mustache.
Now you have enough information. You have learned what kind of care strawberries need and what time is best to choose in order to plant or transplant bushes.
Strawberries are often called fidget berries. If it grows for a long time in one place, then it grows old and ceases to bear fruit. Her main whim is a transplant. It needs to be repotted every 4 years. In order to achieve maximum yields, you must first figure out where and how to transplant.
What fertilizers are needed
The main nutritional components of strawberries are: phosphorus (P), potassium (K), nitrogen (N 2), calcium (Ca). The most important trace elements are boron (B) and magnesium (Mg).
- Nitrogen- an indispensable element for the formation of the plant in question, as, indeed, any other. Its lack is a slowdown in the growth and formation of a bush. Strawberry leaves turn red. This berry prefers potassium nitrate. Do not fertilize just before planting. Important: nitrogen reduces the transportability of berries. Do not feed the plant with it during spring transplantation. Nitrogen fertilizers are introduced only until mid-August.
- Phosphorus. It is quite enough in black soil. When deficient, the leaves become dark green. It is very important that it be in sufficient quantity after transplantation.
- Potassium. His plant can borrow from the soil. An excess of potassium fertilizers will lead to a lack of magnesium. Remember: inexpensive potash fertilizers contain chlorine in their composition, and it negatively affects strawberries.
- Calcium It is an essential component for plant cell walls. Deficiency affects the density of berries, the tips of the leaves are brown.
- Boron and magnesium, other trace elements strawberries are needed in small quantities, but their presence is mandatory. In case of deficiency, complex fertilizers can be used.
Everyone's favorite is strawberries. Care, transplantation are important processes. Although you have to tinker with the berry, it always answers generous harvests skillful and hardworking hands.
Strawberries are the fastest crop of all berries. Young plants develop very actively. From planting to getting the first berries, it usually takes less than a year. But strawberry bushes also age quite quickly. Gardeners often have to deal with its transplant.
A rare variety of strawberries is able to adequately bear fruit for more than five years.
Most strawberry varieties are most productive in their second year.. At this time, the plants have already formed powerful bushes and roots, but have not yet accumulated pests and baggage. The average optimal age for a strawberry plantation is 3–4 years. After that, rejuvenation and strawberry transplantation to another territory is necessary. It is important that the update concerns both the plants themselves and their location in the garden.
From general rule there are also exceptions. There are varieties of strawberries with a reserve of vitality for only one or two years, and there are "long-livers" that almost do not reduce productivity even after 5-6 years. This requires the coincidence of several factors: the genetic potential of the variety, its resistance to diseases and, the successful microclimate of the site,.
Features of remontant strawberries
Remontant strawberries are productive only for the first 3-4 years after planting.
Some day neutral strains work so hard that they deplete their resources in just a year or two. Small-fruited beardless strawberries of the remontant type (Alpine variety) require rejuvenation every 3-4 years.
Some gardeners operate a strawberry plantation for several years, until it brings at least some kind of crop. But there is no need to talk about profitable productivity in these cases. The berries shrink, the soil gets tired, diseases and pests multiply. Strawberries are truly profitable only when grown intensively. Then the labor costs are large, but the return on the area is very significant.
When is the best time to transplant strawberries?
There is no consensus on the timing of strawberry transplantation, it all depends on the combination of many conditions.
There are options from which the gardener chooses the most convenient: spring, early summer, late summer or autumn. The time for laying a strawberry plantation depends on:
- region,
- site microclimate,
- specific weather conditions
- how to propagate strawberries
- quality of available seedlings,
- availability of free beds,
- financial matters,
- owner's employment.
Hastily made beds are unlikely to please with a decent harvest. Laying a new strawberry plantation - serious job . If the gardener uses his own planting material, available organic fertilizers and mulch, transplanting will still require a lot of time and effort. When you have to buy seedlings, fertilizers, agrofibre mulching, greenhouse shelters, then cash costs are added.
But the result is worth it: all efforts pay off with a harvest of tasty and healthy berries.
Transfer in the second half of the season
Cons of spring transplant
With spring planting, a full harvest will be only a year later.
- A bountiful harvest this season is not to be expected . It turns out that the whole year of fruiting is “lost”.
- If the ridges are prepared not from autumn, but in spring, then the soil settles for some time . The surface of the plantation becomes uneven, some bushes are drawn into the soil.
- There is a risk of damage to seedlings by return frosts. . Only hardened seedlings are transplanted under the open sky. If she is pampered by greenhouse or room conditions, you will have to wait for stable heat or provide a reliable shelter. Best Option, protecting the bushes from both cold and heat, is white agrofibre. You can throw it directly on the bushes, but it is better - on a small frame (arcs). Shelter is also used with plastic wrap, but you have to make sure that the plants under it do not suffer from overheating.
- Hot and dry weather may set in . This will slow down the rooting and development of young strawberry bushes. It will take time to water.
- At the beginning of the season, the gardener has a lot to do, and they are all urgent. . For careful work with strawberries, there is not always enough time and effort.
- Market prices for seedlings are higher than they were at the end of the previous season.
conclusions
Whatever the date for planting is chosen, you need to calculate your strength and take into account all the needs of the berry crop.
Strawberries are not too capricious, but they develop according to their own laws.
Video on how to plant strawberries in spring
Almost all gardeners love and grow strawberries, but not everyone knows when it is better and how to properly transplant it to a new place so that it continues to bear fruit. By learning a few subtleties of transplantation, you can avoid many problems and grow a rich harvest of these tasty and healthy berries.
When is the best time to transplant strawberries - in autumn or spring?
To get a good harvest of strawberries, you need to follow the rules for caring for the crop. One of the main requirements is regular (1 time in 3-4 years) transplantation of plants to a new place.
Strawberries are transplanted both in spring and in the summer-autumn period.
When landing, the following factors are taken into account:
- Land for spring transplantation is prepared in the fall, and 2 weeks are enough for autumn planting. If the soil has not been prepared since last year, then it is better to transfer the transplant to a more late deadline, that is, summer or autumn, depending on the region.
- In spring, seedlings are weakened after a long winter. By autumn, the plants provide strong planting material, which allows you to grow healthy plants that give a good harvest.
- The first crop is harvested one year after planting. Plants planted in the fall, already next spring, delight with their berries, which makes such a planting more attractive than spring.
In different regions, the time of transplanting strawberries in the spring varies greatly. Due to the temperature characteristics of the climate, planting is carried out from April to early June. It continues until the moment when the plants begin to throw out buds. Then the transplant is suspended and continues only after the end of fruiting.
Strawberry transplantation begins in the spring, after the earth warms up to a depth of more than 10 centimeters, otherwise the plants die. With a long snow cover or late spring frosts, spring transplantation is often delayed. In this case, it is better to plant strawberries in a new place in late summer or autumn, when the earth is warm and more than a month remains before frost.
When choosing the timing for transplanting strawberries, you need to take into account the climatic conditions of the region: the duration of the warm season, the frequency of precipitation, the onset of the first frost. In any region of Russia, strawberries in open ground transplanted 1 month before the first frost.
Young bushes from the moment of transplantation should have time to take root, get stronger, in order to bring a bountiful harvest in the future.
In the Moscow region, strawberries are transplanted to a new place from August 15 to September 30.
This planting allows you to get an earlier harvest of berries in the future.
Planting dates may vary depending on weather conditions in the current year. The main thing is that the plants have time to take root before the first frost, otherwise they will die.
In the Urals
The optimal time for transplanting strawberries in the Urals is the period from August 15 to September 15.
Plants are planted different ways. By planting plants under a black film or agrofibre, an earlier crop is removed in the spring (1.5-2 weeks ahead of schedule).
When planting strawberries in open ground, plants are covered with a film during frequent precipitation.
In Siberia, strawberries are transplanted from late July to mid-August.
With a later planting, the plants are planted under covering material or in a greenhouse.
In the Leningrad region
V Leningrad region strawberries are transplanted from mid-August to mid-September.
In order for the plants to take root faster, they are covered with agrofibre. The material allows moisture to pass through and retains heat, which are the basic requirements for plant rooting.
The yield of strawberries is growing due to the appearance of new leaves, mustaches and peduncles on the bushes. After 3-4 years, the growth process in plants stops, the number of berries decreases, they lose their taste and become smaller. Over the years, the soil under strawberries is depleted, diseases accumulate in it, pests multiply.
To get a good strawberry crop, regular renewal of the soil and removal of old bushes from the beds is required.
For transplanting strawberries, 2-year-old bushes are taken. Younger plants have not yet had time to get stronger, and bushes of 3-4 years of age do not give a good harvest.
Strawberries reproduce using whiskers and dividing bushes.
Landing is carried out in open ground or under a black film or agrofibre.
In regions with unstable temperature indicators, it is better to plant seedlings under a film or agrofibre, which protect plants from negative environmental factors.
From mid-June to July, strawberry bushes give rise to mustaches. For transplanting strawberries with a mustache, healthy, strong bushes with a strong root system, developed leaves and core are selected.
The strongest mustaches are left on the mother bushes, growing closest to the mother bush. Other flower stalks are cut off so that the plants do not waste energy on the development of new bushes. Mustaches, if they did not have time to take root, are sprinkled with earth and, when 3-5 leaves appear, they are transplanted to a new place.
For planting strawberries, a light, non-flooded area with loamy and slightly acidic soil is selected.
- If the site has peat land on square meter beds are brought in 1 bucket of river sand and 1 bucket of earth.
- A bucket of clay chips, 5 kilograms of rotted leaf litter, 5 kilograms of humus, compost or peat are brought into the sandy area.
- V clay soil 1 bucket of sand, 1 bucket of peat and 1 bucket of rotted humus are added.
- With high acidity of the soil, wood ash or dolomite flour is introduced into the ground.
Are onions, garlic, legumes, cereals, beets and carrots.Poor predecessor crops are eggplants, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, physalis and potatoes.
A plot for strawberries is prepared in 1.5-2 weeks for planting. In the land cleared of weeds and roots, complex fertilizers, steamed sawdust or rotted humus are applied. The soil is dug to a depth of 25 centimeters.
Before planting strawberries, 10-15 kilograms of rotted humus, a glass of wood ash, 25 grams of potassium chloride, 40 grams of superphosphate are added to the soil per square meter.
The soil is dug up again, leveled with a rake and treated with a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.
Strawberries need to be transplanted in cloudy weather or in the evening.
Landing
If the site allows, then the best scheme for planting strawberries is a single line. Bushes in this case are planted in 1 row, in increments of 25-30 centimeters. Row spacing is 80 centimeters. This planting pattern makes it easier to care for and access strawberries from 2 sides during harvest. Appearing whiskers further make the landing more dense.
In a small area, strawberries are planted in 2 lines. Rosettes are planted in increments of 30-35 centimeters in one row, the same distance is observed between the lines. The row spacing in this case is also equal to 80 centimeters.
Caring for such plantings is more laborious, but with frequent fertilizing, the crop yield does not decrease. Mustaches with such cultivation are subsequently removed.
Holes are broken on the prepared bed. Their depth should be equal to the length of the root system of plants.
Planting material is inspected for damage. Bad seedlings are culled. Seedlings with roots longer than 10 centimeters are pruned. A good seedling should have 3-4 developed leaves, a strong, developed root neck with a diameter of more than 6 millimeters and a dense core.
To avoid diseases, the roots of seedlings are placed for 1 hour in a solution of Aktara and Previkur.
Prepared holes are filled with water. After absorbing water, the bushes are placed in the holes, the roots straighten out.
They are covered with earth, so that the core of the plant is on the surface of the soil.
Strawberries are watered again and mulched with dry soil or rotted humus, peat, steamed sawdust.
At the time of harvesting strawberries, bushes are selected, which will later be used to divide into separate seedlings. Selected bushes, after harvesting, are spudded with compost or rotted humus.
At the same time, the roots of plants begin to actively develop, which later contributes to the rapid rooting of seedlings after transplanting them to a new place.
Overgrown plants are dug out along with an earthen clod. The earth is neatly separated from the roots. The bushes are placed in a container with water. When soaking, the horns are separated from each other with a sharp, disinfected knife.
Dry leaves, shoots, peduncles and old roots are removed from each separated horn. 2 young stems with light roots should remain on the seedling.
The roots are dipped into a clay mash, consisting of 3 parts of clay, 1 part of manure and water (water is added until the mixture becomes creamy).
Instead of a talker, you can use a solution of a teaspoon of copper sulfate and 3 tablespoons of table salt per bucket of water. The roots of plants in this solution are soaked for 1 hour.
Prepared seedlings are laid out in the holes. The roots are sprinkled with earth, lightly tamped and watered with settled water from a watering can. The soil around the plants is lined with a layer of vegetable mulch or dry earth.
Care measures for transplanted strawberries include regular watering, weed control, pest control, loosening the soil around the bushes.
When watering plants, water should not fall on the foliage. The first 7-10 days after planting, seedlings are watered daily. Then watering is reduced to 2-3 times a week. The ground should be moist, but not wet, as overflow can lead to the death of strawberries. Drip irrigation can be organized on a large planting area, which simplifies the care of plants.
If the beds were fertilized before transplanting, then the strawberries do not need additional feeding.
The roots of adult strawberries can withstand soil temperatures down to -7 degrees, but young bushes lack such frost resistance. Therefore, after planting strawberries, the soil around the plants is covered with mulch.
To shelter the bushes for the winter, needles, peat, sawdust, rotted humus, straw, and needles are used. Only the roots of plants are covered.
When snow falls, the bushes are naturally protected from frost with the help of snow crust. In the absence of snow cover, the plants are covered with agrofiber or spruce, pine spruce branches.
