Flower hyacinth (lat. Hyacinthus), - a genus of bulbous perennials from the Asparagus family, although it was previously isolated in a separate Hyacinth family or included in the Liliaceae family. From ancient Greek, the name of the flower is translated as "flower of the rains." The hyacinth got its name in honor of the hero of the ancient Greek myth: in those distant times there lived a beautiful young man Hyacinth, the son of the king of Sparta, a young friend of the god Apollo, who often descended from heaven and taught Hyacinth to throw a disc. During one of the trainings, Apollo threw a disk, and Hyacinth rushed after him to pick it up and bring it to Apollo, but the god of the West Wind, secretly in love with the prince, in a fit of jealousy turned the flying disk so that he broke the young man's head. Hyacinth was bleeding in the arms of his all-powerful friend, who could not save him... Heartbroken and filled with tenderness, Apollo created an amazingly beautiful flower from Hyacinth's blood and gave him the name of the deceased young man...
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Planting and caring for hyacinths
- Landing: bulbs are planted in the ground in September-October.
- Digging: annually after the leaves turn yellow - in late June-early July.
- Storage: in rooms with moderate humidity and good air circulation in boxes folded in two layers or in paper bags: 2 months at 25 ˚C, then at 17 ˚C.
- Lighting: bright sunlight.
- The soil: permeable, fertilized, with a high content of humus, with a pH of at least 6.5.
- Watering: in a dry season, the soil should be wetted to a depth of 15-20 cm.
- Top dressing: 2-3 times per season: 1 time - at the beginning of growth with nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizer, 2 times - during the budding period and 3 times - after flowering is completed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.
- Reproduction: seed and vegetative - by children.
- Pests: flower flies (hoverflies), aphids, thrips, root onion mites, stem and gall nematodes, bears.
- Diseases: penicillium rot, rhizoctoniosis, fusarium, yellow or soft bacterial rot, variegation.
- Properties: all parts of the hyacinth contain poisonous alkaloids.
Read more about growing hyacinths below.
Hyacinth flowers - description
Hyacinths are one of the earliest spring flowers. The birthplace of hyacinths is the Middle East, North Africa and the Mediterranean, but Holland has done so much to popularize them that it can rightfully be called the world's "hyacinth center". The largest number of varieties and varieties of hyacinths was created in the Netherlands, and every year millions of hyacinth bulbs are sent around the world from the Dutch city of Haarlem.
Dense bulbs of hyacinths consist of succulent grassroots leaves, and the flowering stem (30 cm in height), which is a continuation of the bottom, dries up after flowering, along with narrow, upward-pointing leaves, sitting at the very bottom of the stem, but in the corner of the top leaf, on the stem inside bulbs, a bud is formed, gradually turning into an onion that will bloom next year. In the corners of other leaves, weak bulbs often also form, the so-called babies, which can be separated and used for vegetative propagation. Hyacinth flowers are collected in apical racemes, having the shape of a cylinder or cone. The perianth of the flower is a brightly colored bell-shaped funnel with recurved lobes.
The hues of the hyacinth color represent a wide palette: white, red, pink, purple, blue, pale yellow ... In the form of flowers, hyacinths are simple and double. The fruit of the hyacinth is three-celled, in each nest there are two seeds with a delicate peel.
See photos of hyacinth with species and variety names
Growing hyacinths - features
Each plant has its own requirements in agricultural technology. The hyacinth flower is a capricious plant, and a florist who decides to decorate his garden with these flowers must know how to properly care for hyacinths. For the hyacinth lover the following features you need to know:
- soil for hyacinths should be neutral and consist in equal parts of leaf and sod land with the addition of baking powder. If the soil on the site is acidic, it needs liming, in clay soil you have to add sand;
- good drainage is very important, because the hyacinth flower does not tolerate waterlogging;
- the lighting should be bright, but hyacinths do not tolerate an excess of direct sunlight;
- the site must be protected from strong winds, so many flower growers prefer to plant hyacinths near shrubs and trees;
- do not use fresh organics as fertilizer for hyacinths.
Planting hyacinths in open ground
When to plant hyacinths
Planting hyacinths in the ground is carried out in late September or early October. With an earlier planting, hyacinths can quickly start growing and die during the winter cold, and with a later planting, hyacinths may not have time to take root before frost. Prepare the soil for planting hyacinths in advance: dig the soil to a depth of 30-40 cm, add mineral fertilizers(approximately 70 g of superphosphate, 15 g of magnesium sulfate, 30 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m²), three-four-year-old humus or rotten compost at the rate of 10-15 kg per 1 m².
If necessary (depending on the composition of the soil), also add sand or peat.
If the soil is sandy, then the amount of magnesium and potassium fertilizers should be increased by one and a half times. Nitrogen fertilizers are best applied in spring and summer as top dressing.
Planting hyacinths in autumn
As already mentioned, it is necessary to plant hyacinth flowers in open ground in September-October. Flower growers recommend choosing not very large bulbs for planting, but medium ones, the so-called flower beds, which will give flower stalks more resistant to bad weather. The bulbs are sorted out, soft, diseased and damaged are discarded. Before planting the bulbs, they are kept in a fungicide solution for half an hour.
The planting depth of hyacinth bulbs from the bottom is 15-18 cm (for bulbs with a diameter of approximately 5 cm), the distance between them is 15 cm, and between rows is 20 cm. Smaller bulbs and babies are planted thicker and not so deep. The hyacinth flower grows well in open ground if planted in a “sand shirt”: a layer of pure river sand 3-5 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the hole or furrow, the bulb is slightly pressed into it, covered with sand, and then with soil. This planting method does not allow water to stagnate in the soil, therefore, reduces the risk of bulb rot. After planting the bulbs, if the ground is dry, water the area.
Planting hyacinths in spring
Hyacinth flower is not planted in spring.
Care for hyacinths in the open field
How to care for hyacinths in the garden
So, how to care for hyacinth? Caring for hyacinths is not difficult, but the requirements for agricultural technology must be strictly followed. Firstly, hyacinth is clean, therefore weed control on a site with hyacinths - a mandatory rule. In addition, the plant needs constant loosening of the soil. If you want to make your work easier and at the same time protect the soil from drying out, and hyacinth from weeds and diseases, mulch the soil after planting. Concerning glaze, then it is necessary in a dry season: an earthen ball should get wet 15-20 cm deep.
In the photo: Growing hyacinths in a flower bed
Hyacinth care also includes mandatory feeding. Feeding hyacinths carried out 2-3 times during the growing season. Fertilizers are applied both in dry form and in the form of solutions, but a little less fertilizer is put into the solution than with dry top dressing, and the soil is watered before liquid top dressing. Dry fertilizers are scattered on the ground and then buried in the soil with a chopper.
How and when to plant tulips, as well as how to be later
The first time fertilizers are applied at the very beginning of growth (15-20 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of saltpeter per 1 m²), the second time they are fed during the budding period (15-20 g of potassium sulfate and 30-35 g of superphosphate), the third top dressing is carried out, when the flowering of hyacinths is completed (30-35 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate each).
Hyacinth transplant
Transplanting hyacinth flowers is easy: in the summer, you dig up the hyacinth bulbs after flowering, store them until the fall, and transplant them elsewhere in the fall. When to dig up hyacinths? About two months after the end of flowering, when the bulbs regain strength after this year's growing season.
Propagation of hyacinths
Hyacinths are propagated by baby bulbs and seeds. For those who are engaged in plant breeding, the seed method is more suitable than others: in the fall, at the end of September, the seeds are sown in boxes with soil consisting in a ratio of 1: 1: 2 of sand, leafy soil and humus, and grown for two years in cold greenhouse, but seedlings almost never repeat the signs of parent plants, so amateur flower growers prefer the vegetative method of reproduction.
Planting and caring for crocuses in the garden - detailed instructions
True, the growth of children in hyacinth bulbs is slow: every year 1-3 children grow. If they are easily separated from the mother bulb, they are planted and grown, and if the children do not separate, then the mother bulb is planted along with the children.
In the photo: Blooming hyacinths in the open field
In industrial floriculture, such artificial ways reproduction, like cutting and incision of the bottom: cuts are made on the bottom with a sharp sterile instrument, or it is generally cut out so that, during further storage in a special way, the bulbs form new babies. Sometimes the result is stunning - up to forty babies on one bulb. If you are interested in these methods, you can learn about them in detail in the book "Propagation of Plants" by F. McMillan Brose.
Diseases and pests of hyacinths
Hyacinth flowers do not suffer from excessive soreness, but if trouble has already happened and they get sick, then here is a list of reasons:
- acquisition of already infected planting material;
- too heavy acidic soil;
- you used fresh organic matter as a fertilizer;
- unfavorable predecessors;
- looked at the spoiled onion when culling;
- neglected preventive disinfection of bulbs before planting;
- hyacinths were planted very densely.
Most often affects yellow hyacinths bacterial rot (a bacterial disease) that turns bulbs into foul-smelling mucus. The first symptoms are stunting, spots and stripes on the peduncle and leaves. Affected plants should be dug up and burned, and the hole should be etched with bleach.
penicillium rot(fungal disease) is expressed in the fact that all above-ground parts are covered with plaque (the product of sporulation of the fungus) and rot, the flowers dry. They fight the fungus by spraying with copper-containing preparations.
In the photo: How hyacinths bloom in spring
From pests cause trouble to hyacinths flower flies, whose larvae eat the bottom of the bulb. Destroy them with drugs Mukhoed, Aktara, Tabazol.
The bear also harms, feeding on the underground organs of plants, as well as the root onion mite, and the best remedy to combat them - soil mulching.
Sometimes this happens with hyacinths: the inflorescence, not having time to appear from the outlet, falls out of it. The reason for this phenomenon is not a disease, but an excess of moisture in the soil, too early planting or storage at too low a temperature.
Hyacinths have faded - what to do?
Caring for hyacinths after flowering is to give their bulbs the opportunity to restore their strength. To do this, they must still be in the ground for some time. How to care for fading hyacinths? It is only necessary to gradually reduce watering until it stops completely. In addition, this period is the third top dressing with mineral fertilizers, which will add nutrients to the bulbs for flowering next year. When it's time to dig up hyacinths after flowering, their yellowed leaves will tell you.
In the photo: Growing hyacinths
Digging up hyacinths
Hyacinth bulbs should dig annually, otherwise next year the flowering may be much poorer, in addition, the risk of bulb disease increases. Annual digging also allows you to control the condition of the bulbs and the timely separation of babies for growing.
Don't wait for the leaves to die and fall off, because it will be difficult to locate the bulb later.
Dig up the bulbs with a shovel, as they sit quite deep in the ground, wash them in running water, pickle them for half an hour in a three to four percent solution of Karbofos or stand for 10 minutes in water heated to 50 ºC. Then they are aired and dried in a dark place at 20 ºC for a week.
Planting hyacinths for distillation - what and how
The most crucial period is coming, because at this time an inflorescence is formed in the bulb. Dried bulbs are cleaned of the remnants of roots and scales, divided into parsing and laid out in boxes, preferably in one layer. It is better not to separate a small baby. If there are not very many onions, they can be stored in paper bags with signed labels glued to them.
In the photo: Germination of hyacinths in the refrigerator
Storage is carried out in two stages: the first two months the bulbs are stored at a temperature of 25-26 ºC, and the third - at 17 ºC with not very low humidity so that the bulbs do not dry out. You can shorten the first stage by a week by creating a temperature of 30 ºC during the first seven days of storage. The room must be well ventilated. And before the autumn planting, it would be nice to hold the bulbs for a week at a temperature close to that in the garden. During storage, bulbs often form many small babies, so be very careful when planting them in the fall in the ground.
Types and varieties of hyacinths
Hyacinths have been grown at home and in the garden for about 400 years, and more recently it was believed that there were about 30 species and 500 varieties of hyacinths. But after the reorganization of classifications in botany, most of the species were transferred to another genus. Now only three types of hyacinths are classified: oriental hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), Litvinov's hyacinth (Hyacinthus litwinowii) and hyacinth transcaspian (Hyacinthus transcaspicus)- these species are the basis for the cultivation of countless varieties and varieties of plants. Varieties of hyacinths are divided according to the shape of the flower (simple and double), according to the timing of flowering (early, medium and late) and the color of the flowers. In the classification according to the color of the flowers, hyacinths are divided into six groups:
blue hyacinths
- Perle Brillante- late hyacinth pale blue, height - 25 cm, blooms up to three weeks;
- Marie- an early variety of dark blue color with a purple longitudinal stripe blooms for 16-18 days;
- Queen of the Blues- medium-flowering variety of light blue color with a weak aroma, height - 30 cm, blooms up to two weeks;
In the photo: blue hyacinth Blue Jacket
Lilac hyacinths
- blue magic- a medium-flowering variety of purple-violet color, 25 cm high, blooms for 10-12 days;
- Indigo King- late variety of black-violet color, shiny flowers, arrow height 15-17 cm, blooms for two weeks;
- Bismarck- early variety pale flowers purple with a brighter longitudinal stripe, height - 22-25 cm, blooms for two weeks;
A stately and spectacular hyacinth is a real decoration of the garden. in early spring. Appearing on the flowerbed one of the first, when there is still snow in places, it pleases those around it with large and fragrant flowers of the most diverse range of shades and shapes. Such magnificence on a miniature scale can be repeated in winter, pleasing yourself, loved ones and friends with a magnificent gift for the New Year or Christmas. About how the plant is distilled at home - recommendations in our article.
Hyacinth: botanical description
Hyacinth is a genus belonging to the Asparagus family and includes only three species. All of them have a characteristic appearance and fragrant flowers. The bulb of the plant is dense, consisting of fleshy leaves, the bases of which occupy the entire circumference of the bottom. The stem is thick and dense, with an inflorescence at the top. After the end of flowering, it dies off along with the leaves with it. Very fragrant flowers collected in a brush, perianth - brightly colored, in the form of a bell-shaped funnel with curved lobes. The fruit is a three-celled capsule. Three species are known: Hyacinthus transcaspicus, Litvinova and Oriental. The most common and well-known is the latter, which became the basis for breeding many varieties and hybrids. It is possible to care for and plant hyacinth at home in a pot or in open ground.
Hyacinth orientalis: description
It is considered to be the type species of the genus, that is, acting as a nomenclatural species. In the event of any disputable situation, he acts as the only bearer of the generic name from an objective point of view. The homeland of the plant is the Mediterranean and, however, at the moment it is cultivated everywhere, not only as an ornamental, but also as a medicinal plant. The plant is perennial, bulbous, up to 30 cm high and up to 0.5 cm thick stele, leaves are fleshy linear, has a bell-shaped flower. at home, which is quite simple, blooms in early spring one of the first in the garden. In culture, it has become especially popular since the 15th century in Europe, since then more than three hundred high-quality and proven varieties have been bred. The Netherlands is famous for its cultivation of hyacinths, especially the Haarlem region, from which millions of bulbs of these flowers enter the world market every year.
Popular varieties
It is difficult to say in a few sentences about the huge range of varieties of hyacinth. When choosing one for your home or garden, pay attention to the manufacturer, seller, and botanical characteristics (height, flowering time, suitability for forcing, etc.). Planting and caring for hyacinths at home involves choosing a specific hybrid. We offer a conditional division of varieties according to the color of the flowers.
- White: Argentina Arendsen (up to 28 cm, individual flower diameter up to 4 cm), L "Innosance (an early old variety created in Holland in 1863, height up to 26 cm), Carnegie (medium-sized - up to 22 cm, cylindrical inflorescence ), Edelweiss (medium early, up to 25 cm, with a wide brush).
- Pink: Anna Marie (late, up to 25 cm high), Fondant (industrial variety with large 20 cm inflorescences, photo above), Pink Pearl (early, cone-shaped inflorescence with characteristic long bracts), China Pink, Marconi.
- Blues: King of the Blues (old Dutch variety 1865, late, pictured below), Delft Blue (up to 20 cm, suitable for distillation, long flowering period), Maria (up to 25 cm, dark blue saturated shade, one of the most common hybrids), Miozotis (early, pale blue).
- Violet: Amethyst (short flowering, unpretentious, pale lilac hue, height up to 25 cm), Bismarck (early, up to 30 cm light purple inflorescence, ideal for forcing and cutting), Menelik (purple-black, compact, late) .
- Yellow: City of Harlem, Orange Boven, Yellow Hammer.
Lush, spectacular flowering, bright colors and a unique thick and rich aroma - these are the main reasons why in a pot. Care at home is quite simple, but involves distillation, and therefore some features appear. Receive flowering plant try, as a rule, for a certain holiday: New Year, March 8, etc.
What is forcing?
This process involves comprehensive measures to accelerate the growth of the plant. It is widely used in greenhouse cultivation and floriculture. The plant is placed in conditions with elevated temperature environment, humidity and additionally illuminate, thereby stimulating them to active development, flowering and fruiting. It is in this way that tulips, daffodils, lilies and hyacinths are grown in a pot at home. How to save the plant after a similar procedure, read further in the text.
bulb selection
In fact, forcing mobilizes all the forces of the plant and in a short time allows you to get beautiful flowers. Only healthy and strong specimens can withstand this. Choose quality planting material, large, dense bulbs without damage, grown in the open field. Pay attention to the weight, it should not be too light and give the impression of emptiness inside. In addition, as mentioned above, it makes sense to pay attention to the variety, there are hybrids specially designed for forcing.
Preparing bulbs for planting
The preparation of hyacinth bulbs begins in the summer, at the moment when you decide that you will grow hyacinth in a pot (home care - hereinafter). As soon as the foliage dries up, the planting material must be dug up, washed in warm water and dried in a draft in shady place, and then put away for storage in a cool and dry basement or cellar. Experienced flower growers know one secret. As soon as hyacinth flower stalks appear on the flowerbed in spring, they notice the largest and most powerful ones, but they are not allowed to bloom and are cut off. This allows the plant to put all its strength into the development of the bulb, which can then be successfully driven out in the winter.
Landing dates
The timing of planting bulbs in the ground depends directly on when exactly you want to get blooming hyacinths on your window. Care and cultivation at home in the future is quite simple, it is important to do everything right at the initial stage. The cooling period for distillation in the early stages is 10-13 weeks, for late varieties it increases to 12-16. You can set the start date as follows. Determine the day you need to get a flower and subtract the number of weeks set from it in reverse order, plus another 3-4 for growth for early and late varieties, respectively.
In order to strengthen the immune system, the bulbs should be placed for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate or the Hom preparation (concentration - 4 g per 1 liter of water) before planting.
Planting bulbs
In accordance with the planned flowering time in autumn, the soil bulbs should be planted in the ground (purchased or prepared on their own). Use individual pots or group planting - depending on your own preferences. Hyacinth in a pot home care involves minimal, but its flowering is magnificent. Fill the pots with earth almost to the top, then plant the bulb so that its top is at the level of the edges of the dishes. When planting in groups, keep a distance of 2.5-3 cm. Cover the pot with dark polyethylene from above, making holes for ventilation. Transfer the plants to a dark and cool place for the prescribed period, the temperature of the content should be between 5-8 ° C.
As the earthen clod dries, slightly moisten it, the soil should be slightly moist. During this time, small sprouts appear in the hyacinth, when they reach 3-5 cm in height, the plants should be brought into the house. The initial temperature of the content should not exceed 12 ° C, choose a shady place for a few days, and then move them closer to the window (but not the radiators). The pot is placed in a permanent place at the moment when buds appear on the plant.
Hyacinth in a pot: home care during flowering
In order for the plant to please you with beautiful flowering, it needs to provide stable conditions. After the appearance of the buds, the pot with hyacinth is rearranged to a permanent bright, draft-protected place. The temperature should be in the range of 15-20 ° C, keep the soil in a constantly moist state, not allowing it to dry out. Carry out a one-time feeding with complex mineral fertilizer, strictly observing the dosage and concentration indicated on the package.
What to do with the bulb after flowering?
A hyacinth bulb used for distillation cannot be reused. However, you can plant it outdoors in a flower bed in the garden, where it will delight you with natural flowering in early spring. After forcing is over and the desired result is obtained, leave the bulb in the ground - this is necessary in order to preserve the flower. Hyacinth in a pot care at home involves the same as in the ground. Keep watering and fertilizing the plant until the leaves begin to wilt. After they dry, carefully peel them off. Remove the bulb from the ground, dry it and store it in a cool and dry place. Landing in the ground is carried out in late autumn: in the middle or end of October, when the soil temperature drops to 5-10 ° C. Thus, the hyacinth will have time to give roots before severe cold weather.
Remember that the plant prefers a sunny and open place, perhaps with light shade, protected from the wind and from excess moisture. The soil is recommended to be loose, containing sand, humus, and having good moisture permeability.
Native to the countries of the Mediterranean and Southeast Asia, hyacinths bloom in early spring, striking the aroma and riot of color that spreads in the air from white and all shades of blue to yellow and even deep burgundy.
South North Caucasus fragrant flowers are found even in the wild. On the slopes of the mountains and in the valleys, you can see how arrows with blue or pink buds make their way out from under the snow. It is not difficult to grow hyacinths in open ground, subject to mild winters and non-freezing soil.
Appearing above the ground, the bright green glossy leaves of the plant gradually open, and an inflorescence-brush with 20–30 buds begins to rise from the middle. The flowers of modern varieties of hyacinth are tubular, funnel-shaped or bell-shaped, can be ordinary and double, and always have an unusually rich aroma.
How to plant a hyacinth in the middle lane, where the soil invariably freezes, how to care for the plant in order to get consistently lush flowering?
Selection of planting material
Hyacinths are typical bulbous plants. Perennial bulb of this type:
- fully formed by 4-6 years;
- has a spherical shape with a prominent neck;
- consists of numerous scales, with the inner ones dense and fleshy, and the upper ones thin and outwardly similar to parchment.
The growth of the bulb is due to the renewal bud formed in the core, consisting of several rudiments of leaves and a future peduncle. Adult bulbs 5-6 years old near the bottom under the storage scales form the beginnings of daughter bulbs - babies.
Moreover, depending on the variety of hyacinth, its bulbs may have different sizes. As a rule, bulbs that give double flowers are smaller than usual ones.
- If hyacinths are to be grown in open ground, by the time of planting the bulb should be elastic, with a diameter of at least 4 cm and consist of several surface scales, 6–10 accumulation scales and a fully formed kidney.
- On the outer surface of the planting material there should be no mechanical damage, traces of mold, diaper rash or lethargy.
- Looking at the bottom of a high-quality bulb, you can see two-millimeter rudiments of roots.
- The diameter of a quality bulb is one and a half times over size bottom.
Such planting material will not only successfully take root and overwinter, but will also give abundant flowering in the spring.
Selection of a place for growing hyacinths in open ground
A competent choice of a place for planting hyacinths in open ground and caring for plants before and after flowering is the key to a long spring flowering.
The area where hyacinths are to grow should be well lit, which is easy to provide in the spring, when there is still little foliage. But you will have to take care of protecting the flower garden from the wind.
Many gardeners make the mistake of planting bulbs under trees or near tall shrubs. On the one hand, such large vegetation will really protect the inflorescences from the cold wind and will not shade until the foliage blooms. On the other hand, when it comes time to dig up hyacinths after flowering in the garden, the bulbs may not have enough food to replenish their strength, which will affect their quality.
- Hyacinths prefer loose soil. Clay soil or black soil is best mixed with peat or river sand.
- The growth of bulbs and the quality of flowering is positively affected by the abundance of high-quality organic matter, but top dressing with fresh manure can harm hyacinths.
- The acidity of the soil should not exceed 6.5 units, if the pH level is higher, lime flour is added to the soil.
Hyacinth bulbs react extremely poorly to waterlogging. If the groundwater on the site approaches the surface closer than half a meter, high ridges are arranged for planting hyacinths or powerful drainage is needed. To ensure the outflow of spring or rain moisture, a slight slope is sometimes made.
Everything preparatory work to planting hyacinths in the open field and caring for bulbs is best done at the end of summer. In a month or two, the soil will settle, and the autumn rooting of the bulbs will be faster and easier.
Planting hyacinths
The soil for hyacinths is dug up by 40 cm and at the same time square meter contribute:
- 10–15 kg of well-rotted manure or humus;
- sand and peat, depending on the type and condition of the soil;
- 250 grams of limestone or 15 grams of magnesium sulfate;
- 200 grams of sifted wood ash or 30 grams of potassium sulfate;
- from 60 to 80 grams of superphosphate.
If hyacinths are to be grown in open ground on sand, poor in minerals and organic matter, it is recommended to increase the amount of potassium and magnesium introduced by one and a half times. The roots of the plant collect moisture and nutrition within a radius of 15–20 cm from the bulb. Therefore, planting holes are made approximately of this size, deepening the bottom of the hyacinth by an average of 15 cm.
The smaller the planting material, the higher the bulbs are embedded in the soil and denser in the flower bed.
In low-lying areas, hyacinths can be planted on a layer of sand, slightly pressing the bulb into it. This will protect the roots and the entire plant from rotting and possible infections. You can speed up flowering by planting bulbs on high ridges, which, with the onset of spring, will warm up much faster than a flat area.
Planting dates for hyacinths for outdoor cultivation
In most regions of Russia, hyacinths can be planted in the ground from early September to mid-October.
- If the bulbs fall into the ground earlier, or the autumn is unusually warm, the plants start to grow and die when frost sets in.
- If you are late with planting, the bulbs will not have time to give roots by the time the soil freezes.
And yet, it is possible to close the bulbs in the ground in the first weeks of November. To do this, the landing site must be mulched in advance with foliage or other suitable material and covered with a film. The soil will retain heat, and the bulbs that have fallen into it will start to grow as they should.
For the winter, it is better to cover the landing sites of hyacinths from frost with mulch from peat, sawdust, foliage or spruce branches. It will be necessary to remove the shelter in early spring, so as not to damage the emerging sprouts.
Growing hyacinths in open ground and caring for them
After planting hyacinths, outdoor care comes down to regular feeding, loosening the soil, weeding and watering, especially during budding and flowering.
- Immediately after the appearance of sprouts, hyacinths need the first top dressing at the rate of 30 grams of ammonium nitrate per square meter.
- The second application of fertilizer falls on the period of coloring the buds. In this case, not only 20 grams of ammonium nitrate per meter, but also 30 grams of potassium chloride and 40 grams of superphosphate are added under hyacinths.
- When flowering is completed, the plantation is fertilized at the rate of 40 grams of superphosphate and the same amount of potassium chloride per meter of area.
All dressings are applied to the aisle or space between plants, closing up by 10 cm, and then the plantation is watered. Yes, and caring for hyacinths after flowering in the garden also begins with watering, which is essential in the first two weeks after the peduncles have dried.
Caring for hyacinths after flowering and harvesting bulbs
The flowering of hyacinths is magnificent, but transient. After the peduncles dry, the plant quickly loses its decorative effect. When the hyacinths have faded, what to do next in the garden? First of all, especially if the plantings of spring bulbs are combined with some other ornamental crops, the locations of hyacinths should be noted. After all, soon, when the leaves wilt, it will be extremely difficult to find them. Then, plants that restore strength after flowering do not bypass high-quality watering and top dressing.
If in the Mediterranean climate the bulbs tolerate winter well and again delight with bright arrows of inflorescences, then in the middle zone of heat during the dormant period, hyacinths are clearly lacking. So, do you need to dig up hyacinths every year? Yes, it is precisely such a measure in the middle lane that will help create for the bulbs the necessary conditions for the formation and development of the replacement bud and the rudiments of the future flower arrow.
If healthy hyacinth bulbs in a temperate climate, without digging for the summer, are left for wintering in the ground, their flowering next year will be much weaker than before. Only gardeners in the Kuban, the North Caucasus, the Crimea and the south of the Chernozem region can not burden themselves with the annual digging of bulbs, and then only with a fairly hot summer. When to dig up hyacinths after flowering in the garden?
The best time to extract the bulbs is the last decade of June or the first days of July. By this time, the leaves are noticeably yellowing and weakening at the base, now they will be easy to remove.
Storing hyacinth bulbs
When the bulbs are cleaned of soil, washed and dried:
- they are examined, separating diseased or damaged specimens during excavation;
- separate children requiring rearing;
- planting material is treated with pest and disease agents for bulbous plants.
Caring for hyacinths after flowering in the garden and storing bulbs is the most serious event for a grower.
During this time, the covering scales of hyacinths dry out, the plant acclimatizes and is ready for the next stage of storage, when for two months the bulbs must remain at a temperature of about + 30 ° C, sufficiently high humidity and good ventilation. A month before planting, the air temperature is lowered to +17 ° C, so that the planting material can more easily endure the upcoming planting of hyacinths in open ground.
Planting a hyacinth in a flower bed - video
Many summer residents tend to grow hyacinths in their area, planting and caring for them in the open field require a certain amount of time. In this article, we will look at how to grow these beautiful flowers (even in regions where the ground freezes in winter), when to dig up hyacinths, how to store bulbs, and how to propagate your favorite variety.
Hyacinths in a flower bed (photo by Nadezhda Abramovich, Krasnodar)
In early spring, as soon as the snow melts, green arrows of hyacinths sprout from the ground. This flower with a charming and pronounced aroma differs in all shades of the rainbow. Inflorescences in the form of brushes can be both ordinary and terry in structure, 20-30 buds are usually located on the peduncle.
Perennial hyacinth is a bulbous crop, the size of the bulb may vary depending on the flower variety. Planting material is considered an adult by the age of 5-6, when it is fully formed. The tuber is a scaly sphere with a renewal bud - it is she who affects its growth. By the 5th year, adult bulbs usually acquire children, which form near the bottom and are hidden under the scales.
Hyacinth, photo of flowers:
When choosing tubers, you should pay attention to the following nuances:
- Bulbs of terry species are often smaller in size, unlike their ordinary counterparts.
- To grow flowers in the open field, the tuber must have at least 4 cm in diameter, a full-fledged active kidney and multiple scales. Elasticity and heaviness are indicators of the healthy state of the bulb.
- The appearance of the bulb should be perfect - no damage, wilted sides, mold.
- Root primordia should be present on the bottom of the tuber (near the bottom).
- The bottom of a bulb suitable for planting should be about one and a half to two times smaller than the bulb itself (we are talking about volume).
The key to a long and lush flowering is not only high-quality planting material, but also the place for planting. You can break a flower garden near trees or bushes, but not very close to them. The place for plants should be calm, well lit by sunlight. The soil needs loose, if your site is dominated by chernozem or loam, then it is advisable to add peat to it in advance (you can also sand). Soddy land or leafy humus are excellent conditions for the development, growth and flowering of hyacinths.
As a fertilizer, organics give good results, but you should not use manure. If the soil is acidic (pH above 6.5), then it should be diluted with dolomite (limestone) flour. Hyacinth tubers do not like excessive moisture. If on your site groundwater lies close to the surface (closer than 0.5 m), you cannot do without arranging high beds. In addition, the plants will have to provide a high-quality drainage substrate, as well as make a slight slope of the ridge - for a better outflow of water during rains, spring snowmelt. With the advent of spring, high beds warm up faster with sunlight, hyacinths bloom much earlier.
It is highly desirable to prepare the soil in advance - dig to a depth of about 40-45 cm and make the required additives (depending on the composition and condition of the soil). Limestone (200 g), wood ash (150 g), superphosphate (50-70 g), magnesium sulfate (10 g) or potassium (20 g) are added at an approximate rate per 1 m² of land. So that fragile young roots are not damaged during planting, digging the soil at the site of the future flower garden is also important. During the deepening of the bulbs, the soil temperature should be approximately 8-11 degrees, the distance between the tubers should not exceed 10-15 cm. If the flowers are planted in beds, then the row spacing should be approximately 18-22 cm. If you want different varieties of hyacinth bloom at the same time, make sure that all tubers are approximately the same size.
Hyacinth, photo of bulbs:
An acceptable time for planting bulbs is mid-September/October. It should be borne in mind that if you plant a tuber too early, it will begin to develop, but it will not endure the winter. If you plant hyacinths too late, they will not have time to take root and get used to the place - respectively, they will also die. If you are late with boarding, then hurry up by the first week of November - this is the latest date. To do this, you will have to resort to additional measures.
The place for the future flower garden is mulched with leaves or some other suitable material, covered with plastic wrap to keep warm. After the tubers are deepened, the area is sprinkled with sawdust or peat, it can also be covered again with foliage or coniferous spruce branches. Special covering material is excellent for these purposes. With the arrival of the first days of spring, the protective coating can be removed to make way for the hatching hyacinth sprouts.
As mentioned above, the bulbs must be healthy, but if you are still afraid of fungal manifestations, you can pre-soak them in a fungicide solution. The width and depth of the hole under the tuber should be equal to two of its sizes - about 15-25 cm, you can pour a little sand on the bottom, and then deepen the tuber with the bottom down (about 13-15 cm). The bulb is sprinkled with soil, which needs to be lightly tamped, then watered. The root system of a plant absorbs moisture and useful material from the ground within a radius of about 20 cm from the tuber - this should be taken into account. Small onions should not be deeply buried, they should also be planted quite densely.
After the protective cover is removed, plant care will consist of weeding, regular watering, loosening the soil, and fertilizing. It should be borne in mind that hyacinths do not react well to the neighborhood of weeds. When the buds begin to set and the time for flowering comes, fertilizing the soil becomes especially relevant. After spitting the sprouts, the flowers can be fed with saltpeter (25-30 g per 1 m²).
The second stage of fertilizers follows during the period when the buds are gaining color. Now, in addition to ammonium nitrate, potassium chloride (25 g) and a phosphorus additive (for example, superphosphate, 35 g) can be added. At the end of flowering, superphosphate and potassium chloride are applied to the site - 35 g of each agent per 1 m² of area. Fertilizers are processed between rows or places between flowers, after fertilizing, watering always follows.
Hyacinths - how to care after flowering? Unfortunately, this wonderful period is fleeting, after the flowers have dried, the roots should continue to be saturated with moisture. In order for the tubers to recover well after flowering, watering and fertilizing should come first. If you live in a “cold” region, then you cannot leave hyacinths for the winter, they will have to be dug up - these are necessary measures for the further favorable formation of replacement buds.
If you live in the Kuban, in the Crimea, in the north of the Caucasus, then the annual digging of tubers can be avoided, but only if the summer is very hot. It should be borne in mind that the bulbs left in the ground will produce much fewer flowers next year.
Hyacinths have not been transplanted for a long time (photo by Anna Nepetrovskaya, Novokubansk, Krasnodar Territory) back to contents When to dig up hyacinths after flowering
The optimal period is the last weeks of June - the first half of July, when the leaves of the plant become yellow and weak. The ground part of the flower is removed, the tubers are removed from the soil, washed with water and dried thoroughly. Next, we carry out an audit - damaged (or with clear signs diseases) copies are thrown away. If there are undeveloped children on the bulb, they are separated and set aside for growing. Before storage, all tubers must be treated against diseases and pests.
Planting material, photo:
After all the manipulations, the bulbs should be kept for about 7-10 days in a well-ventilated place at an air temperature of +17..+20 °C. To do this, they need to be laid out on clean paper, and after the specified time, hidden in paper bags. It is the period after flowering, as well as the time of processing and storage of tubers, that are the most important for hyacinths. At this time, the acclimatization of the planting material takes place, the scales dry up, the tubers are prepared for the summer period.
At a sufficiently high summer temperature, the bulbs should be provided with air access and moderate humidity (if the thermometer reaches + 30 ° C). About three weeks before planting, the temperature in the room with the bulbs should be lowered to +16 ° C - this will help them adapt before planting.
Separately, it is worth considering the methods of reproduction, since the tubers can produce flowers for two or three years, but at the same time they will not form children. To do this, the bulbs need stimulation, it is carried out in various ways.
Even when planting on the site, the place where the largest bulbs are planted is determined. After the leaves of the plant turn yellow, the tuber is removed from the ground and immediately, without letting it dry, they arrange a “shower” under strong water pressure. During this process, old scales are removed along with the earth. Next, the bulbs are laid out in one layer in a ventilated box, taken out to a shaded place, dried for about 7-10 days. After this time, with sharp knife a wedge-shaped cut is made on the donut, in which the kidney and the donut itself are completely removed. The cut point must be treated with crushed activated carbon.
After this operation, the tubers are laid out in a container, the bottom of which is covered with a layer of perlite. Bulbs should be placed cut bottom up. Next, the container is placed in a large plastic bag (garbage bags can be used) to create the required microclimate. At a temperature of + 30 ° C and high humidity, children will appear at the cut site, and after 2-3 months they will reach about 1 cm, acquire the rudiments of roots and start up small shoots. If the cutting of the bottom was done in the first months of summer, then the tuber with the children can be planted in the soil and covered with sawdust (or peat).
If time is lost, then the tubers are turned upside down, placed in a container with soil, placed in the cold (refrigerator, basement), and with the onset of spring they are planted on the site.
After the hyacinths have faded, what to do with them next? With the onset of August, these tubers are dug up (by that time they are already covered with children), the children are separated. By the beginning of September, the young generation of hyacinths is buried in the soil, covered with a 10 cm layer of mulch (sawdust, coniferous spruce branches, foliage, peat). At the end of the first winter, the mulch layer is removed, but left in place after the second winter. In the third year, such hyacinths give color and delight you with a wonderful aroma.
Large tubers (about 5-6 cm in diameter) are cut into 4 parts, after which some scales are separated from the bottom, the “wound” surface is treated with crushed activated carbon. Next, a container is taken, at the bottom of which perlite or clean sand is poured, you can also use crushed charcoal with ash. Broken off scales are placed in this container, then it is placed in a transparent plastic bag, securely tied and aged for 2 months in not too bright light.
At the same time, the air temperature should be approximately +19..23 °C, but at the second stage, which lasts a month and a half, the temperature should be reduced to +16..19 °C. During this period, several bulbs will be tied on the scales. Keeping young livestock is similar to the method described in the first method.
To do this, you should wait for the period of ovary of peduncles and separate a pair of sheets from hyacinths, they need to be cut as close to the base as possible. Next, the leaves are treated in a solution that stimulates root formation (for example, "Heteroauxin") and buried 3-4 cm in a container with clean sand (or perlite). This container, again, is enclosed in a plastic bag, tied up and placed in a moderately lit place for a month and a half. The air temperature should vary within + 10..17 ° С, humidity - 80-90%. After the specified period on the cuttings, you can see bulbous rudiments, and after 50-60 days - young roots and small leaves. Next, the plants are planted on the site, each cutting subsequently gives 6-10 children.
With this procedure, the bottom is not removed, as in the first case, but is cut crosswise. On large tubers, a pair of crosses is made, on those that are smaller - one. Damaged areas are treated with powdered activated carbon, then the bulbs are placed in a warm room (+20..22 ° C) for 24 hours in order for the “crosses” to open. All further actions are similar to the above recommendations. With this method of tuber stimulation, it is possible to obtain approximately 10-16 large young bulbs.
In order for these heralds of spring to please you with long flowering, splendor of tassels and amazing aroma, you need to make an effort. Now you know how to grow hyacinths, planting and caring for them in the open field, although they are difficult, are undoubtedly worth the time and effort spent.
The first flowers (photo Lyubov Belykh, Krasnodar)
Charming hyacinths are early flowering bulbs with incredibly beautiful and fragrant racemes. Each tassel of the plant resembles a small cylinder and consists of many small bell-shaped funnel-shaped flowers with slightly recurved petals.
Depending on the variety, the hyacinth reaches a height of up to 22-28 cm, and usually blooms from late April to the first decade of June, on average 7-18 days per flower. Blue and blue hyacinths will delight you first with their splendor, then pink and white varieties will come into play, followed by lilac, purple and red, and with a little delay, yellow and orange flora will play.
Planting hyacinths
Place for landing
Hyacinths prefer windless and normally lit areas, preferably without the dominance of direct sunlight. Openwork penumbra is well suited for them. After flowering, in the dormant stage, plants can also be in the shade.
In near-stem circles of trees and shrubs, hyacinths are best planted at some distance, as these flowers do not like to compete for nutrients.
Also, hyacinths do not like waterlogging - they are not suitable for areas where runoff accumulates, as well as places where groundwater is close (above 60 cm). If necessary, make good drainage and level the site. It is optimal to plant hyacinths on a small hill, slope or make raised flower beds.
Another important point- it is undesirable to plant hyacinths after bulbous, as well as after root crops.
The soil
Hyacinths like fertile, well-drained and light soil, with a neutral reaction, such as loose and organic loam or sandy loam. A substrate of sand, soddy and fertile soil in equal proportions, with an addition of minerals, is also suitable.
If the earth is “sour”, it must be neutralized six months before planting by adding dolomite, lime or chalk. Coarse-grained sand should be mixed into dense clay soil. Depleted or poor podzolic soil must be diluted with rotted humus.
Landing dates
Hyacinths are planted in open ground in autumn, usually from the end of September to the third decade of October. The optimum soil temperature for planting hyacinth bulbs is +7…+10C.
On the one hand, planting should not be delayed, since the plant should take root normally before the cold weather. Conversely, planting too early will cause the hyacinths to germinate inopportunely, and the next year they will not bloom well.
If the deadlines are delayed, the site should be insulated ahead of time with leaves or other material, and immediately after disembarkation, cover everything with a film.
A favorable day for landing, see the lunar calendar.
bulb preparation
For landing, select the so-called. flowerbed bulbs of hyacinths are medium in size, within 4-6 cm, although for terry varieties the bulbs can be smaller.
Go through the planting material: it should be dense, not dented, without stains, rot or other signs of disease. The diameter of the "equator" of the bulb should exceed the diameter of the bottom by 1.5-1.6 times.
Before planting, hold the hyacinth bulbs for half an hour in potassium permanganate (3-5 g / bucket), in 0.2% Fundazol essence or in the Hom preparation (40 g / bucket), then dry.
hyacinth bulbs
Soil preparation
No later than 2 weeks before planting, dig up the ground by 35 cm, while removing all weeds, level the area or make a raised flower bed.
Enter under digging, per sq. m:
- rotted manure or old compost, 10-15 kg;
- mineral fertilizers: 55-60 g of superphosphate, 12-15 g of magnesium sulfate, up to 30 g of potassium sulfate. On impoverished soils, it is desirable to increase the dose of potassium and magnesium by 1.5 r.
Landing
The planting depth of these cute plants is equal to three times the height of the bulbs, usually 12-18 cm from the bottom.. Smaller onions can be planted not so deep.
Make holes in the prepared area and pour a hill of clean sand up to 5 cm to the bottom. Place the bulbs on the substrate and lightly press into the sand. Then, first, sprinkle the hyacinth bulbs with the same sand, and then sprinkle the earth on top. The sand cushion improves drainage and prevents the bulb from rotting.
The standard distance between flowers in a line is 12-15 cm, between rows is 20-25 cm.
If the soil is dry after planting, it should be watered. And, conversely, when it stood out rainy autumn, it is recommended to cover the ridge with a film to protect it from waterlogging.
Care
Watering
Hyacinth is a drought tolerant plant, its watering depends on the weather. Nevertheless, in the early stages of development, the soil under it should not dry out. On warm spring days, if the earth has dried up, hyacinths should be moderately watered so that the flower bed is saturated by 15-20 cm. In the flowering phase and a couple of weeks after it, if there is no rain, water them more actively, and limit moisture in the dormant stage.
Loosening, weeding
You should regularly loosen the soil from above to ensure air access to the roots. This is best done after watering or rain. Remove weeds at the same time as weeding.
top dressing
Under hyacinths, root dressing is applied several times per season in the form of granules embedded in the soil or in the form of a solution, per sq. m:
- in the phase of active growth, 20-25 g of ammonium nitrate and up to 20 g of superphosphate;
- when setting buds, 30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate;
- after flowering, 40 g each of potassium sulfate and superphosphate.
Wintering
When the soil is already slightly frozen, mulch the planting site by 5 cm with dry peat, humus or sawdust. And after the temperature drops below zero, additionally insulate the flower bed with dry leaves, spruce branches by 15-20 cm or cover with lutrasil. In the spring, carefully remove the shelter so as not to damage the hatched sprouts.
Disease prevention
Do not use diseased bulbs; remove spotty, broken, dry twigs and flower stalks in time; do not add fresh manure to the soil; properly store and always disinfect planting material; do not plant plants densely, after bulbous predecessors, in a damp place, in acidic soil, or very early.
- Plant with bacteriosis (yellow, white rot) it is better to remove completely, burn the bulbs, treat the hole with bleach or 5% formalin, transplant the flowers, the bulbs can be treated with a 15% solution of vitriol.
- For the prevention of fusarium (fungus) in the vegetative stage, flowers are sprayed with flowers with foundationazole or topsin.
- Against ticks and bears helps the strait of the earth with diazine, bazudine or colloidal sulfur.
- Against the front sight- preparations "Tabazol", "Aktara".
- Against aphids- karbofoska or "Aktellik".
Reproduction and storage of bulbs
Each "mother" forms 3-4 "daughters" per year. Dig up last year's tuber after flowering, at the end of June - in July, when the leaves have dried up and turned yellow. Separate the "daughters", dry the bulbs, ventilate them in the shade, sort and store in a cardboard box with sand or newspapers. It is better to store them, starting from t + 26 ... + 29С for the first 2 weeks, gradually reducing by 5-7С every couple of weeks until planting, but not more than + 16 ... + 17С. And in the fall, the onions can be planted (the roots of the hyacinth begin to swell, as if it “tells” the planting date).
Hyacinths should not linger in one area. Once every 3-4 years, transplant these flowers to another flower bed to reduce the risk of disease.
After flowering, cut off adult plants that are not planned to be transplanted higher, leaving green leaves to the maximum until they die off on their own, and cover them in the fall for the winter.
Hyacinths in landscape design
Hyacinths look elegant and organic in rockeries, in a convex flower bed or in symmetrical areas, in an ordinary flower garden, as well as along garden path or against the backdrop of trees and shrubs. Thanks to hyacinths, you can form the most incredible flower patterns.
At the same time, try to keep the palette not too colorful. For example, monochrome hyacinth plantings look very gentle, noble and cute.
Bulb flower bed - tulips, daffodils, hyacinths
Hyacinths bloom early, so in group plantings they are best combined with other bulbs. Mixed clearings of hyacinths, daffodils and tulips look especially picturesque. Blue and lilac hyacinths combine fabulously beautifully and elegantly with white tulips or yellow daffodils, and orange-colored hyacinths are beautifully shaded by bright red tulips.
Hyacinths after flowering are left in the flower bed empty seats, therefore, it is appropriate to plant various perennials with lush foliage or annuals such as petunias or marigolds that will hide voids.
In addition to open ground, hyacinths are also successfully grown as houseplant in flowerpots, baskets and pots, putting them on the windowsills, porch or balcony.
At proper fit and care, beautiful and delicate hyacinths will wonderfully decorate your garden or favorite flower bed, delighting with the delicate aroma and youthful purity of spring primrose.
Nikolai Prilutsky, only for zakustom.ru
"The flower of sadness" - that's what the ancient Greeks called hyacinth, the flower of "love and fidelity" is considered by modern florists. All this is about him - about the fragrant hyacinth. Experience on how to grow hyacinths in open ground, flowerpots and even on window sills small apartments, modern flower growers share today with beginners.
Growing hyacinths outdoors
An incredible, intoxicating smell, a variety of shades of inflorescences, ease of care and a relatively long flowering period, in relation to affordable price, makes hyacinth flowers a female favorite. Planting and caring for lovely buds in the garden is one of the most enjoyable jobs for amateur flower growers.
Millions of pots of hyacinths are distributed throughout the country for the beloved spring women's holiday and not only. Having pleased the owner for some time, having given her all its color and aroma, the hyacinth fades, leaving a small bulb of itself as a keepsake. And, of course, you should not throw away a faded plant. It is much more prudent to prepare and transplant the bulb in open ground. And again and again enjoy its unique spring bloom. Moreover, hyacinth is one of the most beloved folk early primroses.
What land is needed for hyacinth
Before you start planting, it is important to choose the right soil. The most acceptable for a bulbous plant will be loose soil, which easily passes water. Perfect option it will turn out if such land is additionally enriched with mineral fertilizers. For this, both a purchased packaged product and ordinary humus, which are applied to the soil to a depth of 30 to 40 cm, are suitable. The only thing you need to pay attention to in this case is that the soil for hyacinths using mineral fertilizers should be prepared in advance, ideally , a couple of months before planting.
Hyacinth likes sun or shade?
You can grow an unpretentious plant both in areas open to sunlight, and in slightly shaded places. Do not plant bulbs under bushes or close to trees, root system the latter can stifle the growth of flowers. The most basic thing is to protect bulbous plants from drafts and constant gusts of wind. It is also worth paying attention to the possibility of stagnation of water at the landing site. Like any bulbous plants, hyacinth does not like excess moisture; a constantly wet bulb can simply rot. Therefore, if in doubt, it is better to plant flowers on a small hill or on a slope, in which case the water will definitely seep below the planting level and heavy rainfall will not damage them.
When to plant hyacinths in the ground
By learning in advance how to plant hyacinth in the ground, you can avoid the typical mistakes of novice gardeners. So, the main directions in landing:
- soil preparation begins 2 months before planting, that is, in the month of August; the earth is fertilized with minerals, rotting, loosening from time to time;
- planting time and how to plant hyacinths in autumn in open ground - in September - early October (before the soil freezes), they proceed directly to planting the bulbs. If you start planting ahead of time, the onion will grow and simply ... freeze. The flowering period of hyacinths in the open field: April - March, they will not be able to hatch through a snowdrift. So, having made a recess in the ground (15 cm will be enough) with a garden shovel, you can start planting. The flowers themselves must maintain a distance of at least 20 cm between each other in the flower bed;
- bulb care. Here, the main thing to remember after planting is to make sure that the bulbs do not freeze over the winter. Sawdust, leaf litter, dry peat and other mulching materials, both organic and inorganic, will help prevent this.
Attention! If the soil has not been previously fertilized, it is recommended to sprinkle the bottom of the hole with sand mixed with peat or rotted compost.
Hyacinth care in the garden
When planting is completed, bulbs can be forgotten until growth begins. It was when a young borer appeared that they began to feed and water the plants. Ammonium nitrate and superphosphate are quite suitable for the first feeding. You can simply sprinkle the substances in the dose indicated on the package, and then, after loosening the ground with garden glanders, water the soil.
How to water hyacinths in the garden
After planting, the question may immediately arise: how often to water the hyacinth? At home, everything is clear: you just need to make sure that the soil does not dry out and water the pot from time to time to the top with settled water at room temperature. In the garden, rainfall regulates the process, frequency and temperature of water for irrigation. If no rain is planned, it remains only to prevent the complete drying of the earth, especially during the flowering period, otherwise the bulb from a lack of moisture can simply discard the inflorescences and the plant, which could still please the eye. long time, will go into hibernation until next year.
When the plant has already completely faded and only the onion remains in the ground, it does not need to be specially watered at all, it should lie dormant until transplanted.
If it is decided to transfer one of the plants from the summer cottage to your favorite window sill, it is better to place the dug bulb in a glass of water beforehand. Of course, she shouldn’t swim there, it’s worth picking up a glass in size, the germination of hyacinth is similar to the germination of ordinary onions at home. When a green bore appeared, the flower can already be planted in a full-fledged pot with earth. Of course, it is better if it is a specially selected purchased soil.
How to care for hyacinths in the garden
Do not forget about mineral fertilizers (superphosphate and potassium sulfate), which are best used at the beginning of the formation of hyacinth buds. This can be done both by scattering substances (in dry form), and in the process of watering, diluted in water. Already in the flowering period, so-called microfertilizers are suitable for feeding, such as: boric acid and zinc sulfate, for example.
How to plant hyacinths in spring in the garden
Despite the fact that the hyacinth is considered to be a primrose, its lovely flowering can be admired later. To do this, the bulbs are planted in open ground in the spring. If this season is chosen for planting, then before starting the process, it is recommended to place the flower bulbs in the refrigerator for an hour, or rather, - freezer. This method of planting flower growers is called stratification. Thus, deceptive conditions for imitation of "winter cold" are created. The main thing is to do everything wisely, do not freeze the bulb for too long, otherwise it will freeze, and you can not wait for flowering. When to plant hyacinths in open ground in the spring, common sense and weather forecasters will tell you. The soil must be warmed by the sun's rays in spring, and the threat of frost is also unacceptable.
Ammonium nitrate and potassium will serve as fertilizers for the soil during the spring planting. Of course, they should be used on the ground after the snow has completely melted.
In order for the roots of the plant to breathe, it is recommended to loosen the earth after spring planting from time to time with garden tools
When the beautiful hyacinth has faded, its bulb will again require attention and care. During this period, the soil will again need to be treated with superphosphate and potassium sulfate. The faded flower itself can be cut off higher, allowing the plant to fade naturally. It is not recommended to leave the bulbs every year in the same place, the earth and the flower should rest from each other for 3 years. The thing is that the soil can accumulate pests and various pathogens, and the bulbous handsome man is quite sensitive to them.
All articles about hyacinths on the site can be read by clicking on this link ...
For a year, each planted onion gives 3-4 shoots, so it’s not difficult to reproduce beautiful spring primroses! With proper care, the bulb will again and again delight with flowering and aroma.
Distillation purely garden flower hyacinth requires providing him with conditions close to the street. The key to success is the selection of a healthy, dense, mature bulb of five centimeters in diameter, as well as knowledge of how to plant a hyacinth in a pot at home.
The size of the planting material for this flower is the determining factor for success. Since only from a large one can you get a full-fledged plant.
The external condition of the bulb is also an important factor. It should be without rotting elements, mechanical damage, dense to the touch.
To get a good, bright flower, you need to provide proper bulb storage. It must be dug up at the end of June and placed in a moist, warm room. The storage temperature during the dormant period is 27-30 degrees. In such conditions, the bulb should be 14 days.
After that, it is moved to a cool, 22-24 degrees, room for 2 weeks, and then the temperature is reduced to 15 degrees. All of these resettlement activities milestones preparing a hyacinth for forcing a flower, carefully study all the information on how to plant hyacinths at home in a pot, then the flowers will delight you with flowering for more than one season.
IMPORTANT!
The bulbs bought in the store have already gone through these stages of preparation, so they do not require such manipulations. You just need to save them until landing.
You can find out more about how to propagate and grow hyacinths at home.
Landing and care at home
How to plant a hyacinth at home in a pot? The plant must be planted in shallow, wide pot. The soil for planting is ready-made, special for planting bulbs. In the absence of the possibility of purchase, turf, leaf soil and compost are mixed in equal quantities. For looseness of the composition, half a part of sand or peat is added.
Before planting, a layer of expanded clay is laid on the bottom of the pot. A layer of sand and soil mixture is poured on it. Then the bulbs are stacked closely. One to three bulbs can be placed in one pot.
IMPORTANT!
The bulbs should not touch each other and the edge of the dish.
Hyacinths are sprinkled with soil in such a way that to keep their tops open. After landing, they create conditions for rest in the coolest and darkest possible room. Ideal conditions are content in the cellar or basement. If you do not have them, find a cool place in the apartment and cover the pots with a dark cloth or an opaque cap.
ADVICE!
You can place containers with plantings under the balcony door or in a container for vegetables in the refrigerator.
About 2.5 months your hyacinths will sleep and prepare to bloom. During this time, they should take root as much as possible.
Hyacinths are planted not only at home, but also on the street. You can find out more about planting and caring for hyacinth in the open field.
When to plant at home?
For flowering in February, varieties with medium flowering periods are selected. They land at the end of October. Late varieties when planting a hyacinth in a pot in late December, they bloom in late March-early April.
The process of forcing flower stalks
After a two-month sleep period, hyacinths settle into spring. They are placed in a warm, bright place and begin to water. The soil should be slightly damp, but not wet. Stagnation of water is detrimental to the bulbs, they can rot.
How to carry out the forcing of a flower in water?
A feature of this flower is the possibility of obtaining a full-fledged flower in conditions total absence soil. Distillation can be done in water, filling the bulb halfway. The whole procedure for preparing to receive a flower is carried out in the same way as with the soil variant.
At the end of the cooling period, the bulbs put in a warm place but continue to protect them from light. As soon as the sprouts reach a length of 10 centimeters, the bulbs are exposed to light. Add mineral fertilizers to the water, so the process of forcing the flower will accelerate.
IMPORTANT!
The bulb must be placed in water so that it only touches the water with its roots, the rest of it should be on the surface.
The process of planting and transplanting hyacinth in room conditions in a pot requires strict adherence to the rules, as well as knowledge of how to care for them. Only in this case can you get beautiful bright flower at the required time.
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The hyacinth genus (Hyacinthus) from the hyacinth family is wildly distributed in the countries of the Eastern Mediterranean and Central Asia.
History reference
The name of the genus is given by the name of the hero of the ancient Greek myth, the beautiful young man Hyacinth, the beloved god Apollo. Tradition says that the jealous god of the western wind, Zephyr, saw how Apollo and Hyacinth practice throwing a heavy disk, sent it to the head of a mortal. The solar god, saddened by the death of Hyacinth, created a beautiful flower from his blood. Hyacinth culture began in 1543, when several bulbs were brought from Asia Minor to Northern Italy, in the Botanical Garden of Padua. Gradually, the breeding center moved to Holland, which supplies most of the new varieties and planting material to modern market. In Russia, the first hyacinths appeared in 1730.
Biological features
Hyacinths - varieties
Hyacinths are perennial herbaceous ephemeroid plants. They vegetate in the spring, and during the hot summer and cool winter they “hibernate”. The hyacinth bulb is large (4–6 cm in height and about the same in diameter), round, covered with thin membranous scales, lives up to 10 years. After that, the flowering weakens. From 5-6 years of age, daughter bulbs begin to appear. With their help, vegetative (not seed) reproduction of hyacinths occurs. The leaves are elongated, narrow, relatively short during flowering, then growing up to 20 cm. The racemose inflorescence on a thick fleshy peduncle can reach 30 cm in height. Flowers 12–35, bell-shaped, on short stalks, very fragrant. In the wild species, the corolla is usually blue or white. In varietal hyacinths - pink, red, purple, dark purple, blue, yellow, orange. There are terry varieties. In central Russia, hyacinths bloom from the end of April - the first days of May for two weeks.
Planting site, soil
Hyacinths are used for group plantings in flowerbeds, in the form of borders along the paths. They can be successfully grown in pots, used for winter forcing. The best place- warm, sunny, protected from the wind. Groundwater should lie at a depth of at least 50 cm from the soil surface. Otherwise, you will need to arrange drainage or a raised bed.
The soil is light, permeable, nutritious, rich in humus. Sand and leaf humus are added to the clay substrate. In light, sandy soils - nutritious compost. Hyacinths do not like acidic soils. Therefore, when planting, liming may be necessary. Do not add fresh or poorly rotted manure before planting - it can burn the bulbs.
Planting, care, feeding
Hyacinths are planted in late September - early October (terms for middle lane Russia). The site for them is prepared already in July - August, so that the soil settles, and the weeds have time to germinate and be removed. The substrate is dug up to a depth of 40 cm, organic matter, sand (if required) and phosphorus-potassium-magnesium mineral fertilizers are added. It should be noted that when hyacinths are cultivated, it is preferable to replace synthetic mineral fertilizers with ash and bone meal, and manure with bird droppings. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied not before winter, but in spring and summer. The recommended feeding area for a medium-sized bulb is 15 x 20 cm. The planting depth is traditionally calculated according to the rule of three bulbs (two more of the same should be placed above the planted top). Accordingly, children and small bulbs are planted more often and not too deep.
Experts suggest planting hyacinths in a “sand jacket”: clean river sand is poured into the bottom of the groove or hole with a layer of 3-5 cm, the bulb is slightly pressed into it, then covered with sand to the top, then with soil. This method prevents rotting of the bottom of the bulb, protects against infections and improves drainage in heavy soils.
Watering the bulbs is required only if the ground is dry. Hyacinths are thermophilic, therefore, with the onset of stable cold weather, they are covered with dry foliage, pressed by spruce paws. Removed in the spring, as soon as the snow melts. Hyacinth sprouts appear early, but they are not afraid of short-term frosts and light snowfalls.
Hyacinths - care
Care: weeding, loosening the soil and top dressing.
- When sprouts appear - nitrogen fertilizers.
- After the appearance of buds - complex (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) fertilizer.
- After the end of flowering - phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
Fertilizers are applied to the furrows between rows to a depth of 10 cm, covered with earth, and watered in dry weather. If the weather is dry during the period of budding, flowering and two weeks after flowering, hyacinths are watered.
How to properly dig and store bulbs
In nature, in summer, hyacinths have a dormant period. Their aerial part dies off, and the bulb, being in the dry warm earth, lays a flower bud for the next year. In the conditions of Central Russia, the soil temperature is insufficient for the normal development of the future inflorescence, so hyacinths need to be dug up annually. The optimal time is the end of June, when the leaves and peduncle turn yellow and easily break off just below the soil level. For this responsible procedure, a sunny warm day is chosen. The dug out bulbs are cleared of the soil. Then they are washed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, the children are separated (small ones remain with the mother bulb) and laid out for primary drying in a shaded, ventilated room at a temperature of 20 ° C - for a week. Then they are completely cleaned of roots and leaves, sorted by size and placed in boxes (no more than two layers), in small plastic mesh or bags of old nylon stockings. Bulbs should be stored for at least 2 months in a well-ventilated, shaded room at a temperature of about 25-26°C (air humidity should not be too low, otherwise the bulbs may dry out) and another month at a temperature of 17°C. It is especially important to observe these conditions for medium and large bulbs, which should bloom in the spring.
Disease and pest resistance
In Central Russia, hyacinths are practically not susceptible to diseases and pests. Troubles happen only with gross violations of the rules of agricultural technology (for example, applying fresh manure to the soil before planting) or when purchasing infected planting material. Sick hyacinths are dug up and burned, the landing site and the surviving specimens are treated with potassium permanganate.
reproduction
Varietal hyacinths reproduce vegetatively - bulbs, bulbs - babies, bulbous scales. Seed propagation is used in breeding, but young plants bloom only after 5–7 years. Children are formed in adult bulbs in a small amount. This situation can be corrected by making notches about 5 mm deep on the bottom. On large bulbs - four notches crosswise, on medium ones - two. The operation is carried out after digging and primary drying. Bulbs obtained from children require growing, bloom in 2-4 years.
