Winter petunias. Is it possible to grow petunia as a houseplant in winter? How to save petunias for next year

Few flower growers think that petunia is a perennial by nature. In the harsh conditions of our country, almost everyone grows it as an annual. I propose to consider ways to save a chic plant in winter period.

Growing petunias from seed is a tricky business. Not every amateur has the patience to pick microscopic seedlings. Very often, seedlings in the early stages are affected by the black leg. Few reach adulthood. Therefore, it makes sense to "try your luck" and keep your favorite copies at home.

In recent years, several species and varieties of petunias have been bred that do not produce seeds. But they perfectly reproduce vegetatively: surfinia, caliberhoa, terry hybrids. In order to cut cuttings from them in the spring, winter storage of queen cells is necessary.

Ideal conditions for keeping in winter:
high humidity;
low temperature (not higher than 10 degrees);
rare watering (1 time per week);
lack of top dressing;
good lighting.
How to create these conditions and keep the plants until spring?

Vending uterine bushes are cut at a height of 18 cm, removing dried leaves and branches. Transplanted into separate containers with a volume of at least 3-5 liters, depending on the size of the plant.
In early autumn, without waiting for a strong cold snap on the street, they first bring it to the veranda or glazed cool balcony. A month later, they are moved to the house, choosing the coldest place, but with good lighting.
In private houses, suitable: a warmed veranda, a window in the basement, a gap between wooden frames (if the distance allows). The apartments are located on an insulated or heated balcony, on a windowsill closer to the glass. To reduce the heat, a thick blanket is thrown over the batteries.
Flower growers involved in the cultivation of seedlings for the purpose of its implementation, equip heated greenhouses or greenhouses in the garden. If possible, in unheated rooms maintain a temperature of 6 to 10 degrees.

There is a second option for saving planting material in the form of cuttings. In early August, branches with three internodes are cut from garden specimens. The top two sheets are left, and the bottom ones are removed.
Rooted in two ways:
1. In aqueous solution with the addition of an activated charcoal tablet for disinfection. Carefully inspect the branches every day to prevent them from rotting. Leaves should not fall into the solution. When roots appear, they are transferred to pots with earth.
2. After processing with root, they are immediately planted in a flower pot for 2-3 pieces. For 3 weeks, cover with jars to increase humidity. Landings are aired once a day so that condensation and mold do not form. Cover from direct sunlight.
After 3 weeks, the buds begin to grow. The cover is removed. Above the 4th leaf, the growth point is pinched for greater tillering. To make the plant lush, this operation is repeated several times with each new shoot. Such bushes are stored at the end of August. They tolerate wintering conditions better than mother plants. Caring for them is the same as for ordinary indoor flowers. During this period, supplementary lighting is required in the evening and in the morning, top dressing with complex fertilizers once every two weeks.
Petunia from cuttings continues to bloom until December. True, inflorescences in winter time are getting smaller. Then comes a period of rest, and in February a new wave of buds is formed.

In March, buds wake up on the uterine bushes, the stems begin to grow. If there are greenhouses made of glass or cellular polycarbonate, then plants are brought there. There is enough light here, and the temperature stays at least 5 degrees at this time. The most ideal conditions for obtaining strong planting material.

In April, cuttings are harvested. Root in the same way as described above. Unlike plants grown from seeds, flowering on them begins much earlier. After 1-1.5 months, the first buds appear.

The color of the inflorescences of modern varieties of petunia is so diverse and unpredictable that even on one bush it is difficult to find 2 identically colored specimens. Therefore, I want to keep the most beautiful plants for myself and admire them for more than one year.

Petunia is a southern plant that is not able to overwinter in cooler climates, but there are ways to keep petunia in the winter in the cellar until the next warm season. These flowers are perennial. In order for them to decorate a garden or window sill for more than one year, it is necessary to properly prepare them for the cold season. It is required to know in what conditions and where it is possible to place pots for wintering, and where it is undesirable.

Beautiful, bright, lush flowers that often adorn gardens and balconies are petunias. Many housewives strive to save the plant for next year. Therefore, you need to know what conditions in the room are necessary for a flower so that it can painlessly endure the cold. The room in which the pots will be located must meet the standard criteria:

1. The room should be light. It is undesirable to keep the plant in the cellar all winter, it can be moved to a lighter and warmer place closer to spring so that the cuttings can be prepared.
2. Indoors, it is necessary to maintain a comfortable for the plant temperature regime. The temperature for petunias should not be very low or high. The optimal value is +10…+15°C. Don't worry if the temperature drops a little. The main thing is that it stays at + 5 ... + 6 ° C.
3. The level of air humidity should be medium. With an excess or lack of moisture, the flower may die.

If there is no cellar in the house, you can adapt another room for storing petunias that will meet the specified requirements. Such premises can be glazed verandas, insulated loggias, balconies, etc.

Preparing for storage

Preparing a petunia plant for dormancy is a responsible and important stage, since it depends on it whether it will overwinter or not. You can save a flower in the cold period in the form of:

• mother bushes;
• cuttings.

If the petunia grew in the ground, then it must be transplanted into a pot. Preservation of uterine bushes begins with pruning the bush from dry leaves, damage, buds. It is important to remove rotted branches so that they do not spoil the healthy branches of the petunia bush. Some flower growers use a radical method of cutting - all branches are cut to 10 cm above the ground. In this state, the pots are left on the street. You need to have time to bring the petunia into the room before the first frost.

The preparation of any plant, including petunias, for winter begins before the start of late autumn. For wintering, the flower is cut from cuttings at the end of summer. During this period, the petunia still has enough vitality and it reproduces easily. Gardeners recommend cutting cuttings 5-10 cm long, after which they are planted in cups and placed in greenhouses. During this period, the rooting of the plant occurs.

After the petunia cuttings have become strong, they are transferred to a cool bright room and provide appropriate care. In this form, it will be possible to save your favorite variety and get not one bush, but several.

Ways to store petunias

Pots are prepared and brought into the basement before the onset of frost. In basements, petunia bushes tolerate cold quite well. Watering during this period should be minimal. It is enough to moisten the soil 1-2 times a month. Some flower growers fertilize petunias in winter to maintain the vitality of the flower.

Caring for cuttings is somewhat different. There is an important rule that says that if I store the plant until winter in the form of cuttings, then it must be provided with sufficient moisture. It is important not to "pour" the young shoots; they can be moistened only after the top layer of the soil has dried.

It is recommended to put the cuttings on the windowsills so that they receive a sufficient amount of light. It is advisable to place containers with water next to young bushes, which will provide the necessary humidity in the air. In this form, the flowers gain strength before the onset of heat, and in the spring, when the cuttings already have strong roots, they are transplanted into pots or flower beds.

These methods are suitable for storing existing varieties of petunias that bloomed the previous summer. To get a young flower of a different species, it must be grown from purchased seeds. To do this, seeds are sown in cups with soil. Then the containers are placed in the light and properly cared for. When the first shoots appear and they develop a good root system, they dive. Then the seedlings are transplanted into a larger container. At this time, you can begin to harden young bushes. To do this, they are left in a room with cooler air for a short period of time.

Preparing to plant a pitunia in the spring

To prepare the plant for planting in the spring, flower pots that were stored in the basement must be moved to a warm and bright room in February or early spring. So they will have time to wake up, gain strength, sprout.

Then you can start the cutting process. For cuttings, the most healthy petunia sprouts with a length of 5-6 cm are chosen. After rooting, young sprouts are planted in a substrate, the top layer of which should consist of river sand to prevent root rot. Petunia seedlings are watered, fed and planted in the ground or flowerpots.

Conclusion

Petunia will delight with beauty every summer if it is properly stored during the cold season.

Having kept several petunia bushes in winter as a mother plant for cuttings, it can be argued with a high probability that with the onset of heat, the petunia will bloom again. In the meantime, green sprouts will be strengthened, they will decorate the house like indoor flowers, creating comfort and reminding of summer.

Petunia cuttings for the winter- how to keep the petunia variety you like until spring and in what way is it better? Preserving an old bush in winter is not an easy task, but it is not possible to collect seeds and sow the next year, because the largest, double flowers are hybrids.

Why is cutting better?

Petunias are divided into ampelous and bush.

Ampelous petunias grow strongly and become a real decoration of the house and plot. Bush petunia bushes are not so lush.

There are two ways to store petunias in winter - mother plant and cuttings.

In order not to buy the seeds of the petunia hybrids you like again in the winter, which are not at all cheap, and to grow seedlings in a new way, it is preferable to cut the petunia varieties you like and keep the rooted cuttings in the apartment until spring.

In the spring, the cuttings grow very quickly and become beautiful bushes.

One more reason for cutting petunias for the winter- very often there are spontaneous mutations, especially in terry hybrids. A bush of a certain hybrid grows, suddenly one lash on it gives completely different flowers, they can change shape, size and even color. Thus, Surfinia appeared, it reproduces only by cuttings, there are no seeds in bags.

Packages with seeds that say that this is Surfinia are more like seeds of ordinary ampelous petunias, at best.

Petunia cuttings for the winter

In order to prepare cuttings, you can cut off the petunia varieties you like or the tops of the lashes, with about 4-6 leaves, cut off the number of cuttings you need. You can cut off the whole lash and cut the number of cuttings you need at home.

cuttings can be rooted in disposable, plastic, 100-gram cups. Use transparent cups so that you can see when the cuttings have roots.

For rooting, a lot of soil is not needed; a little more than half can be poured into cups. Priming should be very loose and breathable. Coconut fiber, perlite, vermiculite can be added to the composition of the soil - the soil will be loose and will be able to hold moisture.

Pour the soil in cups with plenty of water and prepare the cuttings for rooting. On the cuttings, remove all unblown buds, flowers, seed pods, old, diseased, yellowed leaves.

Next, we plant the cuttings in cups with soil, just stick the lower end into the soil. After planting, compact the ground around the cutting. To avoid overflows, do not forget to make drainage holes in the bottom of the cups.

Place cups with cuttings in transparent plastic bags without holes and tie tightly. Thus it will be supported desired humidity so that plants without roots do not die.

Put the cuttings under the lamp, they will take root in 1-2 weeks, it all depends on the variety.

When to cut petunias for storage

For the northern regions, cuttings are best done from the end of August, the southern regions start cuttings a month later - in September.

Rooting cuttings on a bright, sunny window will not work - this is not seedlings. Remember that cuttings do not have a root system - use shelving with lamps(fluorescent or LED).

The optimum temperature for rooting petunia cuttings is +15-20 degrees, not less.

Approximately 1.5 weeks after you put the cuttings for rooting, you can already look into the bags or look through the transparent walls to see if your plants have roots.

All cuttings with roots can be removed from the bags. We give 5 days to adapt to dry air and then the cuttings can be fed. In soil without roots, they fed mainly on their leaves.

It makes sense to feed the cuttings only in the first month so that they build up a good root system.

All rooted cuttings are transplanted into 0.5 liter plastic cups, in them they will grow until mid-January. Use a water- and moisture-permeable soil so that the root system does not rot in winter.

Petunia cuttings are best placed in a cooler location, especially if you can't provide enough light for the plants.

Watering in winter is very moderate.

At the beginning of January transplant cuttings into 2-liter pots and petunias within a month will build up the root system, and then the leaf mass.

Already in mid February you can start cutting your favorite plant for the new summer season.

In spring, cuttings are taken in the same way as in autumn, although cuttings take root much better in spring.

Thus, from one preserved and rooted plant, you can get a huge amount of seedlings, and not re-sorting, namely those varieties that you liked.

Bush petunias do not make sense to cut- the seeds are cheap, there are a lot of seeds in their bags, it is very easy to buy seedlings of spray petunias in the spring.

Ampelous petunias usually sold in packs of 5 seeds, you need to choose carefully - the seeds quickly lose their germination.

If you decide to grow an ampelous petunia from seeds, then propagating them in the spring using cuttings will be very simple. Having sown early seeds for seedlings - around the beginning of January, petunias will grow up in 1.5 -2 months and you can cut off the tips of the branches and take cuttings.

The cuttings will quickly take root, and you will get from 5 plants the amount that you need.

The main advantages of storing and cutting petunias for the winter is getting early flowering.

Video - Propagation of petunias by cuttings. How to save a petunia in winter.

Petunia is a plant of southern countries, even in autumn it continues to bloom in a flower bed or flowerpot, not realizing that the cold will come very soon and it will die. To prevent this from happening, the grower should take care of the plant, this is especially important if the variety you love does not produce seeds, and there is nothing to renew it with the advent of spring.

There are two ways to save petunias in the winter - cuttings or a mother plant.

To preserve the mother plant, it is removed from the ground along with a clod of earth, placed in a spacious container and brought into the room - it should be light and with an acceptable temperature of at least + 10-15 degrees.

When transplanting, which is carried out with the onset of autumn, damaged and dried leaves and shoots are removed. Healthy branches are cut to 10-15 cm. If the petunia grew in a flowerpot, you don’t need to dig it out - you just have to bring it into the room and create the necessary conditions.

Petunia growing and care at home

Growing petunias from seeds at home necessarily involves picking. An exception is the method when seedlings are grown using peat tablets. After the sprouts gain strength, they will acquire five to six full-fledged leaves, they can be planted in separate containers. This process is called picking, it must be done very carefully so as not to damage the fragile root system.

From now on, seedlings need to be accustomed to periodic hardening. At first, 10-15 minutes of the plants staying where it is cool - 10-15ºC - will be enough, with the subsequent increase in time.

If you want the future petunia bushes to be lush, densely branched, then be sure to pinch (you can do it more than once). To do this, you need to cut off the growth point of the stem at the level of about the 5th leaf - this technique provokes the growth of new shoots from the axils of the remaining leaves.

When the seedlings gain strength, maybe even give the first flowers, the petunia can be planted in a flower bed.

Petunia care in winter

Watering should be minimal, so that the soil does not dry out, and stretching shoots should be pinched. At the end of February, you can already start cuttings.

The strongest shoots are taken from the plant and cut into cuttings with 2-3 internodes, the lower leaves are removed. The cuttings are treated with a tool for root formation (rhizomes or enin) and planted in a substrate with a top layer of river sand 3-4 cm thick, this will prevent possible rotting of the cuttings due to overflow.

Further care as for ordinary seedlings, followed by planting in the ground.

How to water a petunia

Water the petunia generously, so that the water begins to come out of the drainage holes. In this case, there will be confidence that the clod of earth has been completely wetted. Usually in the summer the petunia is watered 2 times a day - in the morning and in the evening. Important rule: Never start watering if the hot sun is shining on the flowers. You will ensure that the roots in moist soil begin to "cook", and this can lead to the death of the plant. According to the orientation of your balcony, work out your own watering schedule. For example, if the direct rays of the sun fall on it from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., then water the plantings at 7 a.m. And at 3 pm (or a little later, for example, immediately, as soon as you come home from work in the evening).

Please note that in May - early June, when petunias are already sleeping on the balcony (street), it is still quite cool at night. Therefore, try not to water the plants late in the evening to avoid hypothermia of the roots. The same can be said about autumn - September and October. In summer, such precautions are irrelevant.

Petunia shower

On dry summer days, petunias should be sprayed with warm water from a spray bottle. This will be a good prevention against spider mites and saturate the plant with moisture from the outside. Evening abundant spraying has a great effect on the condition of petunias, making them healthier and stronger. Spraying should be done when the sun leaves your balcony. Otherwise, sunburns will definitely remain on the plants - the rays will pass through drops of water, as if through lenses and burn through the leaf plate.

Petunia cuttings

Cuttings are an excellent, labor-intensive way to propagate this flower. A high percentage of rooting, simple care for the bushes are the advantages of this method.

To do this, you need to cut off the upper cuttings from a full-fledged, strong plant, about 10-12 cm long. It is worth mentioning that on this occasion the opinions of experienced gardeners are divided, as some advise to select side shoots for cuttings, which are located at the root of the plant. It is worth noting that both options work well, subsequently give a positive result.

Reproduction by cuttings of petunias is carried out closer to autumn (end of August - September). The lower leaves are removed from the segments of the stem, and they themselves are briefly immersed in a container with a solution of a biostimulating drug, for example, Rhizome. After that, the cuttings are seated in cups, shade them. The soil (or sand) where the cuttings were placed should always be moistened. You can also use pure vermiculite.

The roots of the shoots are formed already on the 7th or 10th day. After rooting, the cuttings can be transplanted - small pots with a diameter of 12-15 cm are just right. Here the petunia can survive the winter. Feeding rooted cuttings with complex fertilizers is very important.

How to cut a petunia

In order for the root system of the plant to be well formed, the cuttings must be lowered for some time into a solution with phytohormones.

Since the root system of a petunia is very powerful and dense, you should not neglect caring for it, since it is the roots that will influence the further development of the flower.

After that, the cuttings are planted in boxes with wet sand or loose soil, the planting depth is 4 cm. The cuttings should be planted close to each other, literally 2-3 cm apart.

Then the earth can be pressed with your hands and watered.

The box should be placed in a bright place, previously covered with a film or glass.

When to cut a petunia

I transplant terry petunias in early August so that the plant still has time to take root well, they tolerate transplanting quite simply, it is advisable to dig it up with a large clod of earth.

As for the varieties of ampelous petunias, I plant them in separate pots in the spring and bring them into the house with the onset of cold weather. You can also transplant them in the middle of summer, but I noticed that non-transplanted ampel varieties are better preserved.

If you don’t want to touch the plant in the flowerbed in the summer, you can cut cuttings from it in late June - early August, root them and save the already rooted petunia for the winter. According to my observations, such plants tolerate winter more easily in an apartment.

Petunias root easily. WITH flowering plant I cut cuttings with two internodes, cut the leaves. It is better to use not the apical parts of the shoots, but the lateral root offspring 7-9 cm long. I make the lower cut of the cutting at the very internode, dip it in rhizomes, plant it in cups and put it in the shade. The main thing is to carefully monitor that the soil does not dry out. Roots appear after 7-10 days. Rooted cuttings are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 12-15 cm, in which they will winter. Plants must be fed with complex fertilizer.

There are 2 options for saving petunias for the winter:

• in the form of mother plants
• in the form of cuttings

Preservation of mother bushes of petunia in winter

Adult petunia bushes can be preserved until spring if they are moved to a bright and frost-free room. It should be light, humid enough, optimal t \u003d 10-15 ° C (but less will do, the main thing is that the temperature does not fall below 0 ° C). Suitable conditions are on closed verandas, insulated or southern loggias, on window sills of entrances.

Petunia bushes are dug up, transplanted into pots and brought into the room. You need to have time to do this before frost, that is, in September - November. Dry leaves, damaged, rotten branches are cut off from the plant. A cardinal haircut is also practiced: all branches are cut to 10-15 cm /

For winter storage, petunias are cut in late August - September. This petunia propagates easily by cuttings, since the life processes in it have not yet been slowed down. Roots appear in 5-10 days after planting.

Cuttings 5-10 cm long are cut from petunias, planted in cups, covered with a “wig”. After rooting, they are placed in a cool, bright place. For example, on the windowsill, closer to the glass. To increase the humidity of the content, a jar of water can be placed near young petunias.

The main conditions for keeping rooted petunia cuttings in winter:

Sufficient watering - after drying the topsoil;

• spraying;
• lack of fertilizers;
• increase in air humidity (tanks with water next to the cuttings).

In the spring, cuttings that have already taken shape in young petunia bushes can be transferred to balcony containers or planted in a flower bed. They can also be re-cut and grown from new cuttings. right amount planting material.

To keep the beautiful begonia until the next season, it is necessary to properly organize her dormant period. In most cases, with the advent of summer and the onset of warm, fine days, flower growers try to take their plants out into the open air. Even the begonias that live in room conditions, on the street feel much better. They actively gain green mass, form new shoots and buds. In anticipation of cold weather, a pot with a plant from the street must be moved indoors. Now it's time to prepare it for rest, which means that watering needs to be reduced. In principle, they begin to water the bush less often even while they are in the fresh air, and when the flower “moves” into the house, the soil does not need to be moistened at all. After all, the tubers should be able to dry before being stored. If possible, the plant can be left in a pot for the winter. Previously, all shoots will need to be cut. Place the pot in a dry room with a stable positive air temperature, for example, in a basement. In the absence of a basement, the tubers should be stored in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf. Before laying for storage, the begonia should be removed from the flowerpot and freed from the substrate. Next, carry out the following activities:

• cut off the shoot from the tuber;
• cut the roots with scissors;
• leave the tubers to dry well.

Put peat in a bag and place begonia tubers there. Instead of peat, it is good to use moss - sphagnum.

Temperature requirement for petunias until next year

The ideal temperature for wintering is 10-15°C, if it is less, it’s not scary, the main thing is not below 0°C. For this, the plants need to be dug up, placed in pots before the onset of the first cold weather (September - November), the most optimal time for this is mid-August. All dried, spoiled leaves should be removed. You can do it more radically - cut all the branches up to 10-12 cm. To comfortably survive the winter, it is enough to water the petunia 2 or 3 times a month.

Soil requirement

Petunia does not impose special requirements on the soil. But if you want to get decorative bushes then:

• Add compost or humus to the future bed;
• Do not apply fresh manure;
• Apply lime if soil acidity is below pH5.5;
• When digging a flower bed in spring, add complex fertilizer (nitrophoska)

An adult petunia plant already has a strong, well-branched root system, so a large capacity is needed to grow a plant (5-6 liters per plant).

Petunia loves regular feeding. As you remember, for the first time they began to feed her two weeks after the pick. At a young age, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers for growth predominates. For bookmarking buds and abundant flowering, potassium and phosphorus are needed. An adult plant needs to be fed every 5-7 days.

Regular removal of faded flowers and seed pods will prolong the overall flowering of the bush. To get a bushy lush specimen, the petunia must be pinched over the third - fifth leaf.

Petunia(Petunia) - one of the most common flowers that decorate flowerpots, flower beds and hanging baskets. This plant was first found in Uruguay near Montevideo in 1793. A little later, dozens of other petunia species were discovered in South America. This flower became a godsend for breeders, and in 1834 the first hybrid petunia blossomed. To date, there are several dozen species and many varieties and hybrids of petunias, so it is easy to get confused in the complex taxonomy of this plant.

Petunia is a perennial. However, in culture it is more often grown as an annual plant. Every year, seeds are sown in the spring, and in the fall, the flowering petunia is sent to a humus heap or thrown into the trash. Many amateur flower growers believe that under conditions middle lane this is the simplest solution. In the southern regions, petunia gives self-sowing.

At the beginning of autumn, I look with regret at the petunias that continue to bloom, which will soon be destined to be in a humus heap. They are poorly adapted to autumn colds and frosts, so their lifespan is predetermined. Beautiful plants over the summer do not have time to fully develop their potential. Even in autumn, they retain a lot of vitality. Petunias can become a mother plant from which you can cut strong stem cuttings. Or a flowering houseplant competing with exotic flowers.

We move the petunia into the house

In nature, petunia is perennial plant that can be used in its cultivation and reproduction. To do this, in the fall, before cold snaps and frosts have yet begun (the petunias that fall under them often die), we select several specimens, free them from long shoots and cut off all spoiled leaves. The remaining bush should be compact and low. Not more than 15 cm tall. Better below. Before you bring a petunia into the room, you need to conduct a thorough inspection of its leaves (especially their underside) so that the whitefly and the testicles laid by it do not get into the house. The end of summer and the beginning of autumn are the time of the mass presence of this pest on cultivated and weed plants, however, we often do not pay attention to the inconspicuous small whitefly. Until it ends up on our houseplants.

If a whitefly or its eggs are found on the leaves of a petunia, then urgent measures must be taken before bringing the plant pot into the house. The best place for him is a cold, bright window sill, a veranda, a glazed loggia (balcony), a bright basement, etc. We are not talking about specially equipped places and greenhouses in which, with additional illumination and the required humidity, mother liquors are grown.

It seems that the petunia is at first thinking about how she will behave further. Sometimes it suddenly wakes up, gives new shoots and even blooms. Or stops growth, falling into hibernation until the end of winter. It is important to create conditions for petunias so that young shoots do not weaken the plant. No growth stimulants and fertilizers are used during this period. The exceptions are Zircon and Epin (only if necessary).

In March (sometimes from the end of February), the petunia container must be moved to the brightest place. It should be cool (not lower than +6°C). Set up watering and fertilizing. This mode allows the mother plant to grow so that in April it was possible to cut off full-fledged stem cuttings.

In winter, the condition of petunias sometimes deteriorates sharply. There are several reasons: either it is powdery mildew and its consequences, whitefly, etc. Often the plant loses strength in an insufficiently bright and warm room. Many troubles are associated with waterlogging of the soil. If the leaves dry up and fall off, and the stems turn black or dry out, then this clear sign: petunia feels very bad. Normally, only partial yellowing of the leaves.

Cuttings as a simple option for propagating petunias

The petunia is beautifully cut. Many times in the summer I stuck a broken flowering shoot into the soil, and it continued to live. This property is used by professionals and flower lovers, collecting "tribute" from mother liquors, in order to then propagate the variety they like. The cuttings are cut with and without a heel. Minimum size cuttings - 2 - 3 pairs of leaves.

There are no special tricks when rooting cuttings. They are planted to a depth of about 1.5 - 2 cm in a container filled with loose fertile soil, cover with a jar and hold in the light. In order for the cuttings to lose less moisture, it is enough to leave just a couple of leaves. The lower pair of leaves should be completely removed, it is better to shorten the upper leaves by ½.

Care is reduced to watering and airing. Condensation must not be allowed to form. A convenient mini-greenhouse is obtained from the upper part of the transparent plastic bottle, in the lid of which holes are made with a red-hot nail or drill. High transparent plastic cups with holes at the bottom can also be used as caps. But spraying cuttings with water should be treated with caution. Often, excessive dampness, rot and mold appear from this procedure. Some amateur flower growers root cuttings of petunias in jars of water.

The temperature at which rooting occurs is about 22-23°C. Well, if there is a bottom heating. For example, a battery located close to the windowsill. The first leaves of young shoots appear very quickly. Without additional illumination or sunlight, they grow weak. Rooted cuttings are pinched, which causes further tillering. During the winter, the cutting, which began to root in August - September, turns into a beautiful flowering bush. It is looked after as a light-loving houseplant.

You can try another way to keep petunias in winter. I picked it up quite by accident. It so happened that by August my petunia had grown into such huge bushes that they covered other flowers and took up too much space in the flower garden. I shortened them, and a bouquet of tops "thrust" in flower pot with garden soil. I put the pot near the house and from time to time watered the “bouquet” from the watering can. Petunia quickly rose, began to grow and continued to bloom. In September I put the pot on glazed loggia. In winter, I sprayed the petunia several times with a highly diluted solution of cheap (!) Washing powder. It can be replaced with soda ash. I didn't want to use chemicals. This preventive measure allowed to avoid powdery mildew, the raid of which often appears in the autumn-winter period and destroys petunias. I cut off most of the buds so as not to weaken the plant. Separate flowers remained "for beauty". It would be possible to leave all the flowers and buds, but for this it would be necessary to organize a stronger backlight.

In May, I shortened some of the extended shoots of the "bouquet", having received many fresh cuttings. The overgrown petunia (the former "bouquet") was divided into several parts and transplanted into a flower garden. Petunia grows quickly and does not like crowding, so it is better to plant its rooted cuttings "for growth".

Conclusion

In winter, petunia can be saved as a mother plant for further rooting of its cuttings. Grown from rooted cuttings (cutting is carried out in August - September), petunia becomes an elegant, beautifully flowering indoor plant, which can later be transplanted into a flower garden, flowerpot or hanging basket and cuttings from its shoots. The main problem associated with the health of petunias in the winter, I think powdery mildew. But this is already a consequence of some oversights in agricultural technology.

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The cold is coming, and the petunia on your site or balcony continues to please lush color. Soon this beauty will come to an end, but it's a pity ... Well, there is nowhere to go from the cycle of seasons, but you can try to save the petunia bushes for the winter. Petunia, at its core, is a heat-loving perennial, therefore, by creating “southern” conditions for it, we can extend its life. So, now we will reveal the secret of how to save a petunia in winter.

Wintering petunias - action for the elite

We hasten to warn you right away: keeping petunia bushes in winter is not an easy task. Although, this best way out if you want to keep a particularly expensive, luxurious variety that does not produce seeds or does not retain all its properties in daughter plants. For example, this is useful for surfinia, supertunia and many other F1 hybrids.

There are 2 options for saving petunias for the winter:

1. in the form of mother plants
2. in the form of cuttings

Option number 1. Preservation of mother bushes of petunia in winter

Adult petunia bushes can be preserved until spring if they are moved to a bright and frost-free room. It should be light, humid enough, optimal t = 10-15 ° C (but less will do, the main thing is that the temperature does not fall below 0 ° C). Suitable conditions are on closed verandas, insulated or southern loggias, on window sills of entrances.

Petunia bushes are dug up, transplanted into pots and brought into the room. You need to have time to do this before frost, that is, in September-November. Dry leaves, damaged, rotten branches are cut off from the plant. A cardinal haircut is also practiced: all branches are cut to 10-15 cm.

A petunia bush can overwinter on a cold windowsill

The main conditions for caring for petunia bushes in winter:

• minimal watering (up to 2-3 times a month);
• lack of fertilizers;
• high air humidity;
• temperature 10-15°C;
• good lighting.

In such conditions, petunias safely survive the winter and bloom in mid-February! Then more frequent watering and fertilizing can be “introduced” into the diet.

A petunia bush that has survived the winter is planted in open ground or in balcony containers. Or they act differently: they propagate the petunia by cuttings and grow young petunia plants. The latter option is more common among flower growers. It is believed (and not unreasonably!) that young petunias bloom better than sophomores.

February flowering petunias of the second year of life

How are cuttings of petunias carried out?

In the spring, cuttings of 5-10 cm are cut from the overwintered petunia bush - green, not lignified. The lower leaves on the handle are cut off so that a bare stem 1-3 cm long remains at the base. It is important that there is at least 1 pair of internodes in this area. 2-3 leaves should remain at the top of the cutting. If they are large, then their plates are cut across half - to reduce the evaporation of moisture.

Petunia cuttings are planted in loose soil, preferably with baking powder. Can be used for rooting pure vermiculite or peat

The bare part of the stem is deepened into moist, loose soil.

The leaves of the cuttings can be cut in half to reduce moisture loss through the leaf blades.

A vapor barrier is arranged on top to keep high humidity around the cuttings. For example, cover the planting container with a plastic cup, glass jar or glass. Every day, the "greenhouse" is aired - to prevent the appearance of mold, rot, black legs on the handle.

For ventilation, holes are made in the bottom of the plastic cup - "greenhouse"

After about 10-14 days, young shoots will appear in the axils of the cuttings - this means that rooting has taken place! The greenhouse is removed, the cuttings continue to grow in the same way as petunia seedlings: watered, fertilized, sprayed. Above 5-6 leaves, young plants are pinched for tillering.

After 2 weeks, new shoots appear in the leaf axils of petunia cuttings.

How to cut a petunia is described in the video story:

In March-April (depending on the region), when stable positive temperatures of 10-12 ° C are established, rooted cuttings are planted for permanent residence - in open ground or in balcony containers.

Flowering of petunia cuttings grown from a second-year uterine bush Option No. 2. Saving petunias in winter with cuttings

In living quarters, there are more chances of survival not for adult petunias, but for rooted cuttings. They do not need special conditions and you need to care for them in the same way as for indoor flowers. This method will also help those flower growers who do not want to clutter up verandas, balconies and loggias in winter with large containers with petunia mother liquors. Cuttings in cups on the windowsills take up very little space!

For winter storage, petunias are cut in late August-September. This petunia propagates easily by cuttings, since the life processes in it have not yet been slowed down. Roots appear in 5-10 days after planting.

Cuttings 5-10 cm long are cut from petunias, planted in cups, covered with a "greenhouse". After rooting, they are placed in a cool, bright place. For example, on the windowsill, closer to the glass. To increase the humidity of the content, a jar of water can be placed near young petunias.

Young petunia cuttings require as much attention in winter as ordinary indoor flowers.

The main conditions for keeping rooted petunia cuttings in winter:

• sufficient watering - after drying the topsoil;
• spraying;
• lack of fertilizers;
• increase in air humidity (tanks with water next to the cuttings).

In the spring, cuttings that have already taken shape in young petunia bushes can be transferred to balcony containers or planted in a flower bed. They can also be cut again and the required amount of planting material can be grown from new cuttings.

Overwintered cuttings bloom already with the first rays of the warm sun - in February or early March. Advantages of keeping petunias in winter (cuttings or adult plants)

The main advantages of saving petunias for the winter:

• early spring bloom. An adult "second-year" plant or cuttings taken from it can bloom as early as February-March. And this will happen even in the northern regions, such as the Urals, Siberia, etc.
• ease in obtaining adult seedlings. To do this, you do not need to sow small seeds, nurse frail sprouts. The planted stalk, after 2-2.5 weeks, will already bloom.
• preservation until spring of vegetatively propagating varieties of petunia.

Don't know how to decorate your balcony, loggia, garden or simply the window sill of your apartment? Then this article is for you. We will talk about the beautiful petunia, which is perfect for decoration.

Petunia is a herbaceous perennial semi-shrub plant of tropical origin. Attracts attention with its large and bright colors. Harmoniously combined with other garden plants. Therefore, it is often used to decorate a garden or terrace. Quite often, flower growers choose it to decorate balconies, loggias and even window sills of apartments.

It is believed that an adult petunia is very whimsical, and young sprouts are still picky. But, despite this, if you approach the process of growing and caring for petunia correctly, everything will work out and you will admire it for a long time. the most beautiful flowers, so in this article we will look at how to grow a plant without errors from "A" to "Z".

How to cultivate?

The best technology for growing petunias is:

1. Large capacity.
2. Regular feeding.
3. Sufficient watering.
4. Removal of faded flowers.

This the plant loves loamy soil, but also takes root well in ordinary garden soil, and some varieties even in simple soil. But it is best to grow a beauty in a fertile one, which consists of peat, turf, river sand, and leafy soil. Another great option for cultivation is the addition of nitrophoska to the earthen substrate.

In garden soil, the greenery of the plant becomes juicier and its growth accelerates, because. they are very fond of a slightly acidic environment.

Growing petunias requires special light conditions. It prefers well-lit areas for growing, however, blooms can fade in the scorching sun. It also needs a little shading.

Lighting is one of the main conditions for growing petunias. Therefore, well-lit areas with blackouts are an ideal place.

The soil in which the petunia grows should be moist, but not flooded. An excess of moisture will stop its growth. It is also important to ventilate the soil in which the plant grows. Growing these flowers is not difficult if you simply follow the conditions of lighting, watering and soil composition.

Is it possible to grow a plant at home?

Can this plant be grown indoors? Yes, but it's more difficult than just in the ground.

Note! Most importantly, the soil in the growing container should be light and absorbent.

Therefore, great attention must be paid to the soil. To do this, it will be enough to mix simple garden soil with purchased soil on a peat base. You can also plant in purchased soil, but after adding a hydrogel to it. The hydrogel must be prepared in advance. It should also be noted that such a substrate retains moisture for quite a long time and you need to be extremely careful with watering the plant. Water only when dry, especially a newly planted plant.

Growing petunias in a pot or container also implies the correct selection of the growing container itself. Bush and terry petunias need 3 liters of land per plant. This means that 3 plants can be planted in a ten-liter container. Large containers retain moisture longer, so it's best to plant several plants in one large container. But ampelous, cascading petunias and sufinias need 5 liters per plant.

The container must have holes to drain excess moisture. If you choose the wrong container, then you can achieve beauty, but not for long. Petunias will flourish first, and then they will survive in such conditions. And they will not please you with long and magnificent lashes and abundant flowering.

It is important to pick off faded flowers from the plant. Secrets of growing petunias:

1. Location selection- it should be a well-lit place with slight blackouts.
2. The soil- both ordinary garden and specially prepared using purchased peat-based soil, with the addition of hydrogel, turf, coarse sand.
3. Watering and feeding- water every day, especially if you see that the top ball is dry. It is best to water in the morning and evening. The petunia does not like stagnant moisture, so take care of good drainage. Feed Regularly mineral fertilizers. The main thing is that it contains potassium and phosphorus - they are responsible for the development of flower buds.

Reproduction methods

There are two ways to propagate: grow seedlings from seeds and cuttings.

seeds

This is the most common way to breed a plant, including at home. Buy seeds in a shell - they are easier to plant and they are much larger. To begin with, we prepare the soil and maintain the desired temperature at 22-25 ° C. We plant in a container in which there must be drainage. Before planting, disinfect the drainage with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Carry out the same procedure with the soil, use special preparations to disinfect it.

Sow the seeds in slightly damp but not soggy soil. Before this, it is better to mix the seeds with river sand. Then we close the container with seeds with glass or film. We grow seedlings at a temperature of 22 ° C. To prevent the soil from becoming damp, constantly remove condensation from the glass or change the film.

On a note. Don't forget good lighting. As soon as small bushes appear and the roots get stronger, you can plant it in open ground or continue growing in a greenhouse.

Watch a video about growing petunias. Sowing seeds for seedlings:

cuttings

It allows the plant to grow much faster. It assumes the presence of an already adult plant. To do this, cut off the side shoots of the petunia. Then cuttings are disinfected and planted in small cups with light soil. We put in a shady place. Do not forget about moistening the soil and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. Thus, the plant is prepared for wintering. In the spring we plant in open ground.

Watch a video about propagating petunias with cuttings:

Landing kit

• Priming.
• Planting container.
• Means for disinfection.
• Seedling for planting.
• Drainage.
• mineral fertilizers.

cultivation

At home

in greenhouses

• Sowing seeds- We buy seeds in a special store. We purchase or prepare the substrate ourselves. It consists of peat, sand, earth. Wipe everything well and pour with a solution of potassium permanganate. The wet mixture sits in boxes for several days. We sterilize the boxes before stuffing with peroxide or potassium permanganate, peat is shed with fungicides before sowing. Seeds are sown in peat, the layer of peat in a box is 2-3 cm and consists of small particles, well sifted and even.

  Important! Seeds are not covered with soil so that light falls on them. We also provide additional lighting.

  We germinate at a temperature of 22-25 ° C. The required air humidity is 95-98%, to maintain it, we cover the crops with glass or polyethylene. The substrate should not dry out, so we often water it from a sprayer. Water should be settled a little warmer than the substrate. After germination, reduce the temperature to 18-20°C.

• picking- move the plants into cups. They are in them until the roots take up the whole place. At first, the cups stand side by side, but as the seedlings grow, they are placed apart from each other.
• Watering and feeding- when the seedlings are dived, you need to make sure that the top layer of the substrate dries up before the next watering. Therefore, water the cups once a day or less. It is best to water in the morning and evening. We combine fertilizing with watering.

Care rules

Caring for a petunia does not require much effort from you. It is enough just to control the watering and feeding of the plant. You need to water under the root of the plant, so as not to damage the delicate flowers. The next day after watering, you need to loosen the soil so that a crust does not form. Remove weeds. Feed a week after planting in the ground. We combine watering and fertilizing. We feed with fertilizers with potassium.

Problems, diseases and pests

Sometimes you may encounter such a problem as yellowing or drying of petunias. If you do not follow the rules of care, the plant can get sick:

• late blight;
• chlorosis;
• black leg;
• gray rot.

They need to fight with special drugs. But it is easier to prevent their appearance with proper care. If these rules are not followed, then in addition to these diseases, petunia can be affected by viral diseases. There is no cure for them - your plant will die. Of the pests, spider mites, aphids, slugs and thrips are dangerous.

Follow the simple rules for caring for petunias, then you do not have to worry about the health and beauty of your plant. It will always delight you with beautiful flowering.

Petunia in winter - indoors, is it possible to achieve flowering?

Everyone knows that petunia is an annual plant. But few people know that you can grow it at home in the winter. To do this, you need to transplant the petunia before the appearance of frost. It is necessary to cut off all spoiled leaves and remove high shoots. It is better if the bush is up to 15 cm. At home, the petunia behaves with caution, it can give new shoots, or it can be silent for some time. You can use zircon and epin for feeding. In February - March, place the pot in the brightest place. At the same time, we begin active watering and feeding. Conclusion - in winter, petunia can only be grown so that it gives a beautiful flowering in summer, then you can transplant it into a beautiful flowerpot or garden.

Yes it is possible.

Petunia- a beautiful and not whimsical plant, essentially undemanding, easy to care for, therefore it has fallen in love with many flower growers, it can grow in any area, i.e. in flower beds; along sidewalk paths in many cities, as well as on the balconies of apartments and even in room conditions, with proper care abundant flowering still guaranteed.

Most often, petunia is propagated by seeds, as well as cuttings, the choice is not great, you can use two methods for reproduction.

Yes, petunia can also be grown indoors, east and west windows are suitable for this.

After all, petunia is a light-loving and heat-loving plant, it is from bright lighting - the abundant flowering of petunias in room conditions depends, or otherwise stretched shoots - they will not be able to give flowers that form, flowering will be rare, and it is also important and heat air.

And of course, by the way, watering, most importantly - so that the soil does not dry out and is not waterlogged, in hot weather - it is recommended to water abundantly, in the evening.

Good luck growing and beautiful flowering.