lyudmila alekseeva
Information from the subtle plans of the planet.
27/07. 2012
The distorted structure of the initial field receives the processed plasma of the plant world, which has passed through a purification block in space, concentrated into a stream of radiation. The inclusion of a new hologram into action occurs through the energy block of the citadels, which transmits the radiation of the hologram into the space of cosmic radiation. Energy radiations in the layers of parallel worlds complete their process of double concentration of plasma formations with the energy balance of plasma. The laton fields become denser, a sound force channel opens for the plasma concentrated into blocks, like segmental radiation. Vibrators of space continue global changes in tectonic layers. With a combination of energy flows, wave bursts of distortion occur. The plasma of new individuals is prepared for development with the help of energy accumulators, which at the critical moment of sliding produce synchronization of the manifested plasma. The concentration of energy on the plasma is modified, which densifies the structural lattice for the growth of new bodies, through the hologram structure of the system. Change of gravitational fields by a source of sound - vibrational impulses changes the density of time by the virtual movement of the plasma. When the parallelometric planes of a new formation are opened, in time space, the energy complex of species significance changes with the position of the planet, for the rebuilt gene system, with the interconnection of matter with the solenoid distributor of the planet. The energy plasma of DI - field structures corrects hologram networks by changing the work of the planet's core.
EXPLANATION: Forests are burning on our planet today, there are many of these fires, the energy of the forest matter passes from one state to another. The density of this energy is changing. It is called the waste plasma of the plant world. All dead plants release energy during the transition from one state to another, and this energy is concentrated into streams with a doubled concentration. This is how nature, called parallel worlds, completes its process, passing from a dense state to a decompressed energy state. New species are being prepared for incarnation into matter at the same time as the dead. Many species are changing before our eyes. They will have new properties and new information. Tectonic processes and the formation of new types of matter continue. The density of time programs is changing, which means that the very process of the way of life, the consciousness of a person will also change, but not for everyone, but only for those people who strive for this. Strives for knowledge of what is happening in the world, strives for new knowledge, justice, goodness and love. This is the true gold of life.
Why do the branches of a birch and an apple tree begin to dry?
There can be many reasons for the drying of branches. Perhaps the atypically cold winter had an effect (usually under such conditions the trees do not freeze. But the trees that were very frozen in a more severe winter and tortured by abnormal heat and lack of rain overwintered weakened, not hardened, without reserves of necessary nutrients. That is why they were powerless even before slight frosts When freezing, the starch in the cells of wood and bark turns into gum.This thick brown mass clogs the vessels in the wood, through which nutrients from the roots come to the leaves.When cutting branches, it is clearly visible that the wood is brown inside. the substances that ended up in the buds and around them were enough for them to blossom and even bloom, and there was no further influx of new nutrients needed every minute.Therefore, they gradually dried up immediately after flowering or during the summer.), perhaps aphids appeared on the branches , May beetles or moles started up on the site, high levels may also affect groundwater wreath.
If a birch grows next to an apple tree, this may be the reason for the branches to dry out. Any large trees with powerful roots are bad for the garden. Birches are trees - pumps that literally pump water and fertilizers out of the soil, and birch, as a tree species, has the ability to release substances into the soil that poison other crops. Note that birches always grow only with each other. A small tree is still tolerable, but a large one should be kept only in a free area in a recreation area. It is better not to plant the following types of trees in a garden plot or garden: walnut, birch, poplar, conifers.
What will we do?
First of all, you need to immediately cut the drying branches. And do it at any time, without waiting for autumn or spring. If tops began to grow at the base of these branches from sleeping buds, then it is necessary to cut them near them. Tops, let me remind you, are strong vegetative shoots with large leaves and underdeveloped buds, developing from dormant or adnexal buds. In this place, the wood froze less, and it will be possible to form new healthy branches from tops in two or three years. We remove the drying parts so that they do not interfere with the growth of new ones and pests and diseases do not accumulate on them.
In addition, such trees need special care - namely, regular watering so that the soil is constantly moist. The near-trunk circle 1 - 1.5 m under the trees should be mulched with a layer of mulch 5 -10 cm. effective microorganisms that quickly process organic matter and increase soil fertility).
To help the trees get out of the painful state faster, during the summer you need to carry out several foliar top dressings with special preparations: Terra-Sorb, Megafol, Masters, Plantafol, Agricola, Kemira-Lux.
If it's a birch, it should be cut off or removed from the site altogether.
On many garden plots birch trees grow, which the owners did not cut down in the process of developing their allotments. Two or three years ago, we noticed that in some healthy-looking adult trees, the tops suddenly began to dry out for no apparent reason and no human intervention. With what it can be connected? Will such a fate await all the birches in the district?
The candidate of page - x answers. Sci. Olga Chemarina:
The answer to this question depends on the specific circumstances.
The average life expectancy of birches is 100-120 years. But foresters believe that after 70 these trees enter old age and can gradually dry out in the future. And one of the "age signs" indicating a strong weakening of the birch is dry top. However, such "old women" can live for quite a long time. I saw dried-up birches, according to legend, planted by order of Prince Potemkin along the road along which Empress Catherine II was supposed to travel: that is, these trees are more than 200 years old.
If a dry top appeared on a young birch, then this is a sign of either some kind of disease, or a weakening of the plant caused by stress, a change in the environment. Such unfortunate consequences can be caused, for example, by a violation of the water-air regime of the soil due to reclamation work, the construction of roads, as well as the erection of buildings, capital fences or other structures on the foundation. In addition, dry top may be due to the fact that the root neck was covered with a layer of earth - this happens quite often during the development of land plots. Sometimes the soil selected when digging a pit is used to level the site or to create a lawn. For the same purpose, fertile soil is imported, and part of it, when backfilled, falls into the region of the root collar.
If you want to save dead top birch, you need to watch it. Weakened trees are susceptible to attack by pests, which often turn out to be carriers of bacterial diseases. If you wish, you can contact specialists from the nearest leshoz who will examine your trees, assess their condition and give qualified recommendations for care. But you should regularly inspect birches yourself. For example, on trees affected by bacterial dropsy, traces of the vital activity of bacteria appear - weeping reddish spots. Sometimes secretions accumulate under the bark, forming swellings. The bast and wood in the affected areas become wet, acquire a dark brown color and a sour smell. Timely detected foci of the disease can be treated. To do this, it is necessary to remove the dead bark, clean the wood to a healthy tissue, pickle with a 5% solution of copper sulfate and paint with oil or nitro paint. This makes sense if the disease has captured only part of the circumference of the trunk. Mechanical damage is also treated in order to avoid the germination of fungal spores on them.
If the treatment procedure seems laborious to you or the disease has gone too far, then it is better to cut down the tree.
Gardeners often approach the choice of seedlings very responsibly, striving to plan the planting with maximum accuracy in order to get the maximum benefit from the plants. They take into account not only the climatic conditions in their region, but also the lighting and soil features. However, sometimes the owners of suburban areas are interested in how to water the tree so that it dries quickly. This method, of course, can hardly be considered humane, but sometimes there is simply no other way out.
For example, if there is an old tree with a trunk diameter of more than 30 cm on the site, but it cannot be cut, because there are other structures or plants nearby. The only way out in this situation is to dry the tree using special chemicals.
There are many ways to ensure that the tree on the site quickly withered. However, the most common of them are those that involve the use of chem. preparations intended for the destruction of plants. And no matter how harmful these tools can be, they nevertheless allow you to get the job done as quickly as possible.
More specifically, there are such chemical methods for destroying trees:
- watering plant tissues with chemical compounds;
- covering the leaves with special preparations;
- grafts that kill trees;
- placing the drug in the ground next to the trunk;
- complete destruction (including the stump);
- applying a chemical agent to the bark.
Important information! Note that most of the chemicals described below affect the root system of trees. When choosing a specific composition in without fail take into account the composition of the soil. There are drugs that affect the bark or living tissues of plants.
Ideally, the tree should be cut down altogether, and the remaining stump properly treated. So you can get rid of the tree as quickly as possible. Be that as it may, for starters, let's get acquainted with the most effective means and features of their application.
Popular Tree Killing Chemicals
If you intend to use chemicals, you must choose the most suitable option. Below is a list of the most effective (according to summer residents) chemicals.
- sodium nitrate. As a rule, it is used to destroy stumps, but in our case it should be applied not only to the tree trunk, but also to the ground. To get the desired effect as quickly as possible, it is advisable to introduce sodium nitrate into the hollow. In about a year, the tree will dry out completely - then it can be burned. And if you water the earth with this saltpeter, then the tree will dry out only after a few years.
"Mikado RK". Clopyralid and picloram - substances of systemic action
Note! A tree is still a living organism, which must be killed only in extreme cases. Do not get carried away with this procedure too much.
Now, having familiarized ourselves with the main chemicals that can quickly dry a tree, we will consider which processing methods are most popular. Some of these methods involve the use of certain drugs described above.
Prices for ammonium nitrate
ammonium nitrate
The main ways to destroy trees with chemicals
Immediately make a reservation that there are many such methods, so we will consider only the most effective of them.
Method number 1. Applying chemicals to living tissue
The bark of the tree is an obstacle due to which herbicides cannot penetrate into the vascular tissues of the plant. Therefore, in order for the remedy to reach its destination, make downward cuts on the surface of the trunk, but do not tear off the bark. Use a small ax for this. As a result, notches and cuts should be around the entire circumference of the trunk.
The herbicide you have chosen, use the cut after making the cuts - apply it to the tissue of the tree.
Note! Do not use herbicides in the spring, as the juice that will ooze from the cuts will prevent the chemical from being absorbed.
Method number 2. Watering the soil with herbicides
Separate preparations can be used for uniform application to the soil surface. After rain or artificial irrigation, the herbicide will enter the root system. To concentrate the chemical in one place, you can resort to the installation of barriers in the ground (for example, concrete).
Note! This method is advisable to use in cases where it is required to destroy several or many trees at the same time.
Method number 3. "Killer" injections
They are very similar in principle to method No. 1, and differ only in that special devices are used to introduce chemicals into tissues. The maximum efficiency of the methods is achieved if a point action is taken along the circumference of the trunk in increments of 5-10 cm. Injections are made at a height of about 1 m from the ground. The method is used for trees whose trunk diameter exceeds 5 cm.
Step 1. First, prepare a drill, as well as a drill for it, the diameter of which is 5-10 mm.
Step 2 Make holes 4-5 cm deep as described above. It is important that the drill is at an angle of 45-50 ° relative to the ground during operation.
Step 3 Take a simple pharmacy syringe, fill it with a remedy, active substance which is glyphosate (for example, "Ground", "Tornado", etc.), or, alternatively, pour the chemical directly into the holes. The concentration of glyphosate in the product must be at least 200 g/l.
Herbicide "Ground"
For example: to dry a tree with a trunk diameter of 35 cm, you need 35-40 ml of a product in which the concentration of glyphosate is 360 g / l.
Step 4 Seal the holes with earth to hide the injection marks, remove the chips and see if the drug flows out (the latter is good because it dries for a long time and is clearly visible on the bark). Soon enough, the plant will begin to dry out.
Note! You can use other herbicides, but it is still better to give preference to preparations with glyphosate, because they are immediately inactivated by soil microflora after the root system dies off.
Heavier herbicides based on sulfometuron-methyl or imazapyr, on the contrary, penetrate the soil after the death of the trees and often kill nearby plants. Although you can take care of the barriers described earlier.
Method number 4. Treatment of leaves with preparations
This method is very popular for the destruction of shrubs, the height of which does not exceed 4 m. It can be used from the beginning of spring to the end of summer (more exact time depends on the specific herbicide). The effectiveness of drugs is markedly reduced if the weather is dry and hot, and the tree suffers from a moisture deficiency.
If the preparations are applied to the leaves of crops with a large annual growth, this can lead to the appearance of excessive shoots (except for some extremely susceptible species). If you use this method, then it is not necessary to impregnate the barrel with chemicals.
Method number 5. Simultaneous destruction of the trunk and stump
Here, first, the tree itself is removed with an ax or a chainsaw, and then a chemical is produced. stump removal (more on this at the end of the article). If using this method, apply the herbicide only to the fresh stump. If the trunk diameter is large, process only the outer edge of the stump (no more than 5-10 cm), including the cambium - the internal tissues of such trees are mostly already dead.
If the trunk diameter is less than 10 cm, apply the chemical to the entire cut surface. Apply the drug immediately after you cut the tree - so the effectiveness will be maximum.
Method number 6. Tree bark processing
Measure 30-35 cm from the ground, make a mark on the trunk and process the area below this mark chemical preparation. It is advisable to hold the event in the spring or summer. Before applying, mix the product with oil, then process the bark until it is completely saturated. Tellingly, this method is applicable to all trees, regardless of what type they belong to and what sizes they have.
Greenhouse cleaning work begins with cleaning debris and washing the structure. And the first stages are carried out even before the start of frost. Read more about this in.
Herbicide prices
herbicides
Below are helpful tips, which will help you with the destruction of the unwanted tree.
- The person who destroys trees with chemicals is solely responsible for the final effect.
- Remember that the accuracy of processing can be improved by adding a coloring agent to the herbicide. Trees are much easier to track after processing, so you are unlikely to miss them when reprocessing (if any).
- Trees can "cork" cuts and damage, thereby protecting themselves. In other words, around the damaged tissue is formed protective layer, which can reduce the effectiveness of the drug used. For this reason, when using Method #1, the chemical must be applied immediately after the incisions have been made.
Note! It is believed that on the eastern side the root system grows to the height of the crown, while on the western side it grows to ½ of this height. You can use this rule of thumb.
Alternative Methods
There are also several alternative ways to make the tree dry quickly. Consider the most effective, and therefore popular ones. For the convenience of visitors, the information below is presented in the form of a table.
Table. How else can you process a tree so that it dries out.
| Methods, illustrations | Description of actions |
|---|---|
| It has long been known that when salt enters the soil, it destroys vegetation. Therefore, salt can easily destroy the roots and the tree itself. It is advisable to use a salt solution if you are afraid that the vegetation near the tree may also be destroyed. Water the soil with the solution while it absorbs it. The concentration of salt depends on the size of the tree (the larger it is, the more it should be). |
| You can block the flow of moisture and oxygen to the roots - for this you just need to fill them with concrete to the very base of the trunk. After 2-4 weeks, the roots will die, and the tree itself, accordingly, will begin to dry. This method is advisable if a path is planned in place of the tree. |
| The method resembles the previous one, but is more attractive and environmentally friendly. Lay a layer of mulch (from 15 cm) over the roots and up the tree itself. So you partially block the flow of nutrients, and the tree will slowly die. |
Note! By the way, if the roots are blocking the sewer pipe, you can use the Root Destroyer (if you can find it), which you just need to flush down the toilet. So you will only kill the roots that have penetrated the network, but do not harm the tree.
When the tree dries up, it is cut down and burned. But after that, roots remain in the ground, which can also cause a lot of trouble. Below is a small instruction on the mechanical removal of a stump.
