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Warm welcome
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Evening dress code: how to wear a tuxedo
Sooner or later in a man's life there comes a moment when he receives an invitation to an event marked black tie. And this means that his wardrobe cannot do without a good tuxedo.
A tuxedo is a classic evening uniform, which implies the observance of a number of important rules.
When to wear
Everything is very simple. The tuxedo - evening wear, which means that you can and should wear it only in the evening. Let's say if you're going to a friend's wedding, and the time of the celebration is scheduled for noon, a tuxedo will not suit you. But if the start is scheduled for five in the evening, then put it on boldly. In other words, a tuxedo suits the dark time of the day more.
Jacket
A jacket in a tuxedo is the main component, it is he who determines the whole look and informs those present that you understand where and why you have come. The jacket should be made of black or dark blue wool and have silk lapels. Most often it is single-breasted, with one button, but double-breasted tuxedos are also in use.
Today, the rules of the evening dress code are quite flexible and allow you to experiment. If you want to stand out, you can wear an emerald or burgundy velvet jacket instead of black - but always with black trousers.
Lapels
There are two types of lapels that can be used in a tuxedo - shawl (rounded collar) and dovewing (peaked lapels). Both types have their devoted fans, and what to give preference to is a personal matter for everyone. The main thing is to remember that in the case of a shawl collar, all proportions must be observed as accurately as possible, otherwise the look becomes visually awkward. Peaked lapels are a safer option in this sense.
Trousers
If we talk about a standard tuxedo, then the trousers should be made of the same material as the jacket itself. It is important to remember that under no circumstances should they have lapels. Also, tuxedo trousers are not worn with a belt - they are fixed either with suspenders or with a special belt. Pintucks are allowed, but more often tuxedo pants go without them.
Vest and cummerbund
The classic black tie orders to wear a sash (cummerband) or a vest under the jacket - but in no case both at the same time. However, the modern evening dress code allows you to do without these items at all.
Shirt
According to the rules, under the jacket there should be a white shirt with a stand-up collar, a row of buttons hidden under the placket - they should not be visible. As an alternative to buttons, black pins can act - they just remain open. However, the shirt has the right to be black or, for example, dark blue (to match the jacket), and it can also have a regular shirt collar. The main thing is that it should not be a button-down collar.
The bow tie
Ready-made tied butterflies are not comme il faut. You need to be able to tie a butterfly, and, believe me, this is not so difficult to learn. The procedure is similar to tying shoelaces. However, modern black tie allows you to replace a bow tie with an evening tie or completely abandon a tie.
Accessories
You will definitely need cufflinks - the cuffs of a tuxedo shirt suggest their presence. But it’s better to leave your wristwatch at home - it’s not customary to wear them with a tuxedo. For especially solemn occasions, boutonnieres are suitable, as well as pocket squares - the latter must be silk.
Shoes
Boots should be black and patent leather, the ideal shape is classic oxfords. Aesthetes also sometimes wear slippers with a tuxedo.
What suit to choose the groom for the wedding? If a man wants to look elegant and solemn, then ideal option may become a traditional English tuxedo. A presentable look of an elongated jacket with satin lapels is perfect for marriage. What to look for when choosing a tuxedo for a celebration? How to choose accessories for such a suit?
Features of choice
There is an interesting version of the appearance of a tuxedo: in the aristocratic circles of ancient England, it was customary to arrange separate smoking rooms at receptions and balls. Among cigar lovers, it was considered indecent to shake off the ashes with your finger, so he fell himself and often got on his clothes. In designated smoking areas, the British wore vests with silk lapels, from which it was easy to remove accidentally fallen ashes. Subsequently, this element of clothing was transformed into a formal suit for men's gatherings and dinners with business partners.
For centuries, the tuxedo has not changed and remains out of fashion. It is an elongated jacket with silk lapels. The black tuxedo is classic version English costume. However, there are several more color solutions for this type of clothing. At open receptions in places with a hot climate, and even during a cruise on a ship or at a wedding, a man can wear a white tuxedo, standard black trousers with a high waist and silk stripes.
The choice of material for making a tuxedo is dark, fine worsted wool with a smooth surface or a jacquard pattern that combines areas with a shiny and matte structure. A light long jacket is perfect for the image of the groom. It will look amazing against the background of the snow-white dress of the bride. Even for tailoring a suit, dark blue fabric is sometimes used. This model looks rich and elegant.
Lapel finish options
A tuxedo can be double-breasted or single-breasted, the latter option is now more popular. Lapels on it can be of several styles:
- A shawl collar is perfect for a single-breasted jacket. This model is fashionable in recent years.
- Notched lapel tuxedo - suitable option to create a fashionable image of the groom. This type of collar can be used in double-breasted and single-breasted models.
- Notch lapel looks great on a tuxedo that fastens with one button. On the left side of the collar, a buttonhole is made for a boutonniere.
In the classic model of an elongated jacket, silk fabric is used to trim the collar. In inexpensive tuxedos, rayon or satin can be used as a covering for lapels.
Number of buttons and pockets
Tuxedo buttons are sheathed with the same material used for finishing lapels: it can be silk or its substitute. Popular models of the English jacket are fastened with 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 buttons, and their number depends on the length and style of the tuxedo. It is customary to wear a jacket, unbuttoning the last button. This rule has passed into modern times from English etiquette.
Long tuxedos fastened with 4-5 buttons are only suitable for tall men, while short guys are better off choosing models with 1-3 buttons. A tuxedo can have straight or welt pockets without flaps - they are made fake on the outside of the jacket. Only the inside pockets are functional. A chest pocket is provided for carrying a handkerchief: it is a special compartment at the top of the jacket. The traditional tuxedo has a double hidden pocket on the back. The sleeves of the suit should be decorated with 4 buttons sewn tightly to each other.
What is the difference between a tuxedo and a suit?
A classic men's suit for a wedding consists of a jacket and trousers. These details can be of any style, color and sewn from different kind fabrics. And a tuxedo differs from a suit primarily in the presence of silk or satin lapels on the chest, trousers with silk stripes, a sash belt, and a black vest. This type of men's clothing is made only from plain fabric in black, dark blue, white and is combined only with a snow-white shirt. Men can wear a suit for work, a walk, a party, a business meeting, and a tuxedo is appropriate only for special festive events.
How to wear a men's tuxedo
Wearing a wedding tuxedo correctly is a real art. In such a suit, the groom at the wedding will be stylish and irresistible. But for this he needs to choose the right jacket with silk lapels, trousers with stripes, white shirt with a stand-up collar, a bow tie, a silk cummerbund or waistcoat, thin leather shoes, knee-high socks. Consider the features of these items of clothing.
Shirt with stand collar
A special cut shirt with a stand-up collar is worn under a tuxedo for a wedding. It can be white pleated or smooth. The shirt is made from linen, cotton, silk, cambric, and its cuffs are made double "French" under cufflinks. Buttons for such a shirt are made with a mother-of-pearl strap.
Pants with stripes
For a tuxedo, black trousers are sewn from the same fabric as the jacket. They are fastened with 2 buttons trimmed with silk or satin. Pants should have a straight cut and wear without fail silk stripes are made. The pockets on the trousers are sewn in a straight style, therefore it is not customary to put your hands in them. The belt of the pants is closed with a sash, a vest. If necessary, use suspenders for pants, but the belt in such trousers would be inappropriate.
The bow tie
A classic tuxedo for a wedding is worn with a black bow tie. According to etiquette, it should be tied with your own hands, but the use of tied ties is also allowed. For sewing butterflies, baratea material is used, which is a mixture of wool and silk. The latest fashion trends allow you to combine ties with a wedding suit. different color, but on condition that their shades will match the color scheme of the cummerbund. A white bow tie is best left for a tailcoat.
Thin leather shoes
A must-have accessory for a wedding elongated jacket are black shoes. Only shoes made of thin leather with a shiny tint are suitable. The toe of the shoes can be slightly elongated or rounded, and the sole is thin with a small heel. Lacquered or pointed-toe models will not fit such a wedding suit. Under the shoes it is supposed to wear knee-length and thin woolen or silk socks.
Vest or belt - sash
The junction of the shirt and trousers is closed with a sash or vest. These details in the traditional version are performed in the same color scheme with a touch of the suit. But in Lately you can find sashes of blue, purple, red. A silk belt (cummerbund) is sometimes decorated with velvet or embroidered with braid, it is sewn with folds up and narrowed in the back area. The belt fastens with a buckle. Under a single-breasted jacket, a vest of the same color is perfect instead of a sash.
Photo of men's wedding tuxedos
For any man, you can choose this type of suit for a wedding. The groom in it will look stylish, courageous. How to choose the right English suit? When choosing it, take into account the physique of the groom. The following guidelines will help you choose the right tuxedo for your wedding:
- For men of tall, medium height with a slender figure, any model of this suit is suitable for a wedding.
- For thin grooms, a suit with a double-breasted jacket, with shoulder pads and slightly wide trousers can be an ideal option.
- If a man has a strong, muscular physique, then a single-breasted model with a shawl collar, which fastens with 1 button, will fit well on him.
- To hide the fullness of the neck and visually reduce the wide face, choose a jacket with a slanting collar and a wide bow tie.
- Loose trousers are suitable for grooms with strong, muscular legs.
- To hide a big belly, a man can wear a black vest under his jacket.
- For stocky and short men, it is better to choose a single-breasted model with a shawl collar, a low-lying 1st button and pleated trousers. But narrow and thin bow ties and ties are not for this type of guys.
- For thin and short men for a wedding, single-breasted models that fasten with one button are ideal.
Evening wear for men is a code of rules with too little room for liberties.
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A tuxedo is an evening item. It must be worn when the invitation specifies a black tie dress code. Or when you go to the premiere at the opera.
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The classic tuxedo is black with ribbed satin or silk lapels.
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The buttons on the tuxedo are covered in the same fabric as the lapels.
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Again, a tuxedo is evening wear. At the wedding, if it is scheduled for the daytime, they do not wear it.
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Despite the historical function of smooth silk lapels, today it is not at all necessary to shake cigarette ash on them.
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Pants must be made of the same fabric as the tuxedo (by the way, a tuxedo is called both a jacket with silk lapels and a set that includes it and trousers). Along the outer side seams on the trousers there should be stripes from the material with which the lapels are trimmed.
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Tuxedo pants don't have cuffs at the bottom. And if earlier they were always straight, then in 2018 Virgil Abloh made an easy revolution. First, he himself at the Met Gala in slightly flared tuxedo trousers, and then dressed many fans of the Louis Vuitton brand in such.
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The tuxedo has the right to be both single-breasted and double-breasted.
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All single-breasted tuxedos must be closed with one button. The buttons on a double-breasted tuxedo are located in the same way as on a regular double-breasted jacket.
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The tuxedo has either peaked lapels or shawl lapels. Wear a waistcoat under a tuxedo with peaked lapels, and a sash under a tuxedo with shawl lapels.
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Tuxedo trousers are not worn with a belt. They should either be worn with suspenders (which will be invisible under the vest), or worn with a wide pleated sash.
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The folds of such a belt-sash are always directed upwards. History tells us that tickets to the opera used to be placed in the pleats. Also, the story jokes that they collect crumbs from light snacks that you are treated to. That's right: ash rolls down satin lapels, crumbs fall into the folds of the belt.
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A white shirt is worn under the tuxedo.
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The cuffs of the shirt are single, not double, like French ones. But they still fasten with cufflinks, not buttons.
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A shirt with a stand-up collar and turn-down corners is desirable, but not so necessary these days. In addition, it will only fit under a single-breasted tuxedo with peak lapels.
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There should be no button-down shirt underneath the tuxedo.
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The back of the tuxedo can have two slots. Or he can do without a slot at all - this is a classic option.
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Tuxedo shoes must be black. Traditionally, patent leather, but smooth and neat black oxfords are also suitable.
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Black shoes, of course, need black socks.
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Individual dudes can afford to wear velvet slippers with a tuxedo.
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The rule says to wear a bow tie with a tuxedo. Our sense of beauty suggests that it is better to be able to tie it yourself than to buy tied. But we are forced to humbly admit that in 2019, many people ignore the need to wear a bow tie and more and more often it looks quite appropriate.
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However, we also approve of a tie that is reasonably matched to a tuxedo.
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Velvet tuxedos are beautiful. But this is, firstly, for those who already know how to manage the classical ones, and secondly, for those who have had time to get bored with the classical ones.
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Not all tuxedos are strictly black. The Duke of Windsor once lamented that black fabric seemed dull under artificial lighting, and noticed that dark blue in similar conditions looked more saturated and noble. Just please don't confuse deep navy with navy.
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Even more rebellious than the velvet tuxedo is white, which is increasingly appearing stars on the red carpet. On the one hand, it looks more solemn and pretentious, and on the other hand, it requires you to be more attentive to details and accuracy (it’s better not to even take red wine in your hands).
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Virgil Abloh made not only a trouser revolution, but also a vest revolution, supplying first Timothy Chalamet, and then several more stars with his invention of Louis Vuitton -. And although Terry Crews wore it over a tuxedo at the last Oscars, we do not recommend repeating it. Better be a rebel and wear a vest instead of a jacket.
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