How to water atmospheric plants. Tillandsia: tips for home care Video: tillandsia in the florarium

Atmospheric tillandsia is an attractive airy flower that is very popular with exotic lovers. And this is not surprising, because the tropical guest has an unpretentious character and original appearance. And if desired, even an inexperienced florist can grow it, the main thing is to adhere to the norms of agricultural technology.

Description

Unlike most exotic plants, many types of culture take root easily at home. The main thing is to choose a suitable place for the culture, and maintain high humidity in the room.

Kinds

There are many varieties of this plant. But at home, as a rule, these types of atmospheric tillandsia are grown:

Usneiform, or fly-shaped. Atmospheric plant, devoid of roots, which clings to a support with thin tendrils. The length of the stems reaches only 15-20 cm. The narrow leaves of the awl-shaped culture are covered with thin whitish hairs. V summer time modest yellow flowers appear on the tops of young shoots.
Silver. This tillandsia differs from other types in the thickened base of the rosette, resembling an onion. Thin and thread-like leaves of the variety in the sun are cast with silver, for which it received its name. It blooms in small red-blue buds.
Bootsy. The original variety, which resembles a tangled bundle of emerald wires. The leaves of the plant are heterogeneous: with thin tips, and expansion towards the base. The culture reaches up to 60 cm in height. It blooms in large tubular buds with a pinkish bract and purple petals. Unlike their "relatives", Tillandsia Bootsy releases babies even before flowering.
Andre. An ornamental variety with thin, curved back leaves, on which there is a gray or brown fluff. Reaches up to 25 cm in height.
Head of Medusa. This variety really looks like a mythological creature. It has swollen, and strongly twisted leaves resembling tentacles. The plant produces a flat, bright pink peduncle on which blue buds form.
Violet-flowered. This variety looks like exotic corals. The plant has small rosettes, reaching no more than 5 cm in height and width, and thin curved leaves. The most unpretentious species that clings to any support and survives in almost all conditions. In the summer, before flowering, the inner leaves of the culture acquire a bright pink color. It produces spike-shaped buds of a blue-violet hue.

Each of these varieties will become an interior decoration. But for this you need to create comfortable conditions for the plants.

Home Care

Atmospheric tillandsia is a plant that has an unpretentious character. Nevertheless, in order for a tropical guest to please with her appearance, she needs care, which consists of regular watering and feeding, prevention of diseases and pests. In addition, it is important to provide the plant with a dormant period, and maintain a comfortable temperature, lighting and humidity in the room. And then the tillandsia will take root and quickly grow.

Temperature

Atmospheric tillandsia is a heat-loving plant, but it does not tolerate heat. It is advisable to maintain the temperature in the room within + 20 ... + 25 ° C from spring to autumn. From November to February, when the tropical beauty has a dormant period, it is better to move the plant to a cooler room with a temperature of + 14 ... + 18 ° C.

Lighting

The plant is shade-loving, but still needs sunlight for normal growth. It is especially useful that the rays fall on the Tillandsia leaves in the morning and at sunset. Therefore, it is desirable to grow plants near the east or west window. In winter, when the sun is not too active, it is worth rearranging the culture closer to the south side. Better yet, provide Tillandsia with additional lighting with a phytolamp. In addition, a tropical guest can generally be grown under artificial lighting. But it should be borne in mind that daylight hours for her should last at least 14 hours.

Humidity

Like most epiphytes, the tillandsia absorbs moisture from the atmosphere with its leaves. Therefore, when growing a tropical beauty, it is important to maintain high humidity in the room, and this figure should not fall below 75%. Of course, it is best to put a special device next to the flower - a humidifier. If it is not there, then every morning spray the foliage of the plant using a water spray bottle. At the same time, cover the peduncle with cellophane so that moisture does not get on it.

In winter, when the air in the apartment becomes drier due to the work of central heating, it is much more difficult to maintain optimal humidity. And at this time, spraying alone will not work. Experienced growers are advised to purchase special florariums for Tillandsia for the winter. Others grow the culture in aquariums, vases, or flower displays.

If you do not have such devices, then try to spray the foliage of the crop several times a day using a water spray bottle. And also put containers of water next to the plant, and cover the batteries with wet towels.

At any time of the year, do not forget that an exotic beauty needs fresh air. Therefore, do not forget to regularly ventilate the room. But since Tillandsia cannot stand drafts and sudden changes in temperature, take it to another room during this procedure.

Watering

Most of the moisture the plant receives through spraying. But still 1-2 times a week, he needs more substantial hydration. How to water a plant? To do this, immerse it together with a support in a container of warm water and leave for 20-30 minutes so that it is saturated with life-giving moisture. And then wait until the excess liquid drains, and return the flower to its usual place.

Before watering the plant, you should remember that it is better to use rain or melt water for irrigation. V last resort you can use tap water, but before the procedure it must be filtered and defended for at least a day.

If you notice that the Tillandsia leaves have begun to curl along the vein, then immediately immerse the flower in a container of water. After all, this phenomenon is a sign of serious dehydration. In this case, hold the flower in water for 3-4 hours, and only then return it to its usual place.

top dressing

Tillandsia responds well to fertilizers, but it is strictly forbidden to overfeed the flower. In addition, compounds containing nitrogen, copper, boron and zinc cannot be used for these purposes. Also, do not feed the tropical guest with universal preparations, any growth stimulants, and organic matter in the form of infusions of grass, bird droppings and mullein.

How then to fertilize the culture? Give preference to dressings intended for bromeliads and orchids. But choose solutions that do not contain boron and copper, which are poisonous to tillandsia. And also keep in mind that you need to use only a quarter of the dose indicated on the package.

Fertilize from March to September directly into the rosette of the flower, combining top dressing with watering. Do this activity once every six weeks. Eliminate top dressing completely in winter.

rest period

When caring for atmospheric tillandsia at home, we must not forget that the plant needs a dormant period. If you grow a tropical beauty near a window, then in winter it will come by itself. Indeed, during this period, the amount of light and heat decreases, and the tillandsia goes into hibernation. At this time, be aware of the extreme temperatures that the plant can withstand.

If you grow a crop in the back of the room, then provide it with additional illumination with a phytolamp.

Transfer

As such, a Tillandsia transplant is not only unnecessary, but also undesirable. Indeed, during the event, parts of the plant can be damaged, which will affect its health. Therefore, even if you do not like the support, and you want to replace it, then it is better not to transplant the culture, but wait until it releases the children. And already attach them to the new stand.

Bloom

Atmospheric tillandsia blooms once in a lifetime, and this happens at the age of two or three years. And after the formation of buds, the tropical guest spends all her strength on the formation of children, and she herself dies. Tillandsia bloom looks very exotic: the plant produces an ear, on which buds of bright color open one by one. Each of them does not last long, but the flowering itself can last several months. In addition, the ear looks very decorative, even after the last bud leaves. Therefore, it is not necessary to cut it, because over time it will die along with the mother plant.

Tillandsia care during and after flowering is the same as usual. It is necessary, as before, to regularly spray and water the flower so that it grows children. Each specimen produces from 3 to 8 lateral shoots, thanks to which you can create a large collection of these exotic plants.

reproduction

If desired, you can grow a large collection of these amazing plants. Moreover, even a beginner can cope with the task. First, prepare all the necessary materials.

Plants do not need soil, most often they are attached to bars, snags or felt. When creating a composition with a flower, remember that it is strictly forbidden to use materials treated with varnish, paint or chemicals. After all, from contact with them, the plant will quickly die. The ideal option there will be a piece of natural tree bark, a fragment of a root or branch, as well as a small wicker basket. If you plan to hang the stand on the wall, then first make a hole in it and thread the wire through.

Start breeding atmospheric tillandsia when the children grow to 5-6 cm in diameter. How to host an event:

Cut off the kids sharp knife from the mother plant, and be sure to treat the cut points with crushed charcoal.
Press the tillandsia against the support with the root neck, spine inward. It is advisable to place a little sphagnum moss or coconut fibers between the plant and the stand. This will make it easier for the tillandsia to cling to the support.
Carefully secure the plant to the stand using soft elastic string or sheathed wire. To make the composition look spectacular, match the threads to the color of the support or tropical beauty.
Spray the plant with warm water from a spray bottle, and then hang or set in a permanent place.

In the future, provide young cultures with normal care.

Growing problems

If you provide proper care for atmospheric tillandsia at home, then there will be no problems with it. But if you regularly violate the norms of agricultural technology, then the tropical guest begins to act up. Most often, flower growers face such problems:

The leaves of the plant are twisted, the tips have dried up and turned yellow. A lack of watering, too dry indoor air, or the use of hard water leads to a similar phenomenon. Normalize irrigation and remember to spray the crop more often and it will recover quickly.
Tillandsia does not release buds. The plant may refuse to bloom if it lacks light and heat. Move the culture to another place with more suitable conditions, and if necessary, arrange additional illumination with a phytolamp.
The base of the socket is rotten. Excessive watering, or excess fertilizer, leads to a similar phenomenon. In addition, contact with contaminated material can cause rotting. To save the plant, change the support immediately. If there are children, then attach them to other coasters. In no case do not use fungicides to treat the bark, because they will be absorbed into the material and will gradually poison the flower. If you want to disinfect the support, then pour boiling water over it or dry it in the oven.

Diseases and pests

With proper care, this unpretentious plant practically does not get sick. And in rare cases, it is affected by leaf spot. This fungal disease can be recognized by the fact that blisters appear on the plant. Over time, they grow and turn into brown spots. Unfortunately, it will not be possible to cure the diseased Tillandsia, and the plant will have to be destroyed.

In this article, we will introduce you to other types of tillandsia - epiphytes. These flowers, just like the green, potted tillandsia, came to us from Latin America, where they are attached to other plants and trees on the slopes of mountains, in tropical forests and stretch higher and higher, exposing their branches and leaves to the rays of the sun. Tillandsia roots do not drink moisture, they serve to fix the plant on some kind of support. Moisture and nutrition to the plant come from the air through the hair scales (trichomes), densely covering the leaf blades. Caring for atmospheric, usniform and other types of tillandsia epiphytes at home differ markedly from the maintenance of other indoor flowers. For successful cultivation and spectacular decorative look will have to put in a lot of effort. But these beauties are worth it. Read on for how to grow this extraordinary plant without roots.

The main difference between atmospheric (air) tillandsias and other plants and flowers is that they have practically no roots. Plants receive nutrition and moisture from the air through the scales covering the leaves. These scales are gray in color, which is why, sometimes, atmospheric tillandsia is also called Gray Tillandsia. Filamentous, almost transparent leaves, together with the same thin numerous shoots, create green lace bedspreads with a gray-silver sheen of unique beauty. However, she still needs roots so that with the help of them she can gain a foothold on the bark of a tree, a snag, or cling to terry moss. In adult epiphytes, the roots become like wire. In a soil similar in composition to garden, clay or sandy soil, the roots of Tillandsia will not be able to gain a foothold and hold a huge mass of numerous shoots of the plant. Under natural conditions, this type of flower grows in the tropics and subtropics. He chooses more open, windy places, preferably in the upper tiers of the forest.

At home, it is almost impossible to create comfortable growing conditions for him. Dry and hot indoor air often destroys the plant. The exception is special greenhouses with controlled humidity and temperature regimes, where atmospheric tillandsia is grown exclusively for sale.

But, more and more often, amateur flower growers grow atmospheric tillandsia at home, and successfully cope with its maintenance.

The most popular types of atmospheric tillandsia

Each species of Tillandsia is somewhat different from the other species. Some are interesting in that they change color before flowering, others are valued for feeling great in any climatic zone, and still others have a wonderful aroma. There are species of tillandsia with a well-developed stem, but among the atmospheric tillandsia there are stemless species. There are Tillandsias that look like tufts of feathers, others like a ball of thread, still others like an old man's silver beard.

Usneiform

The dormant tillandsia is the most popular of the atmospheric tillandsias. It also has other folk names. For example, Spanish moss. In fact, this is not moss at all, and it reproduces not by spores, but vegetatively - from seeds. The light seeds of a flower are carried by the wind in all directions, fall on fertile soil and form new sprouts. But for its appearance and ability to take root where other plants cannot survive, Tillandsia was dubbed Spanish moss. As the plant grows, the lower stems of the plant die off, and new ones grow upward.

Tillandsia

Tillandsia is a typical adaptive plant. It wraps its thin soft branches around a neighboring living plant - a bush or trunk of a huge tree. Filamentous leaves up to 8 cm long and 1 mm wide, arranged in two rows on thin, highly branched stems, covered with scaly whitish hairs. Leaves and stems are densely covered with gray scales. Due to their reflective properties, Tillandsia appear gray-silver. This plant has no roots, it simply hangs from the trees in whole lacy cascades of not very long shoots, clinging to the bark of trees with its thread-like thin stems. The length of the shoot is not more than 20 cm, but there are so many of them, even when they die, they do not go anywhere. Young shoots grow on old ones and eventually grow and intertwine so that they form huge silvery beards up to 3 m long. When strong winds blow, the long Tillandsia beards cling to neighboring trees, the shoots get stuck in their crown and continue to grow there. Surprisingly, this lacemaker also blooms with yellowish-light green flowers in the summer months. Tillandsia absorbs nutrients and moisture from the air. That is why these epiphytes grow in places with high environmental humidity. The most beautiful specimens of the dormant tillandsia are found in Bolivia at an altitude of 3.5 thousand meters above sea level. Where the silvery beards of old people grow, the surrounding landscape takes on an unusually fabulous look, and on moonlit nights it becomes even mystical.

Tillandsia Gardenera forms a large rosette of arched, folded leaves that act as collectors for fog and dew. Moisture after condensation flows down the leaves to the base of the stem, where it is absorbed by the plant.

Tillandsia Bulbosa

Tillandsia Bulbosa grows as an epiphyte, using the roots only to attach to something. The plant is very beautiful because of the leaves, which turn reddish-lavender when flowering.

Tillandsia Silver

Tillandsia Silver has such narrow leaves, for which it is called the Hairy or Filamentous Tillandsia. Long leaf blades expand towards the base, bend in a spiral or bizarrely bend and in disorder, in a kind of bunch, move away from the base. Not everyone will even guess that this is a living plant. The countries of Mexico, Cuba, Jamaica are considered the birthplace of this miracle. It blooms in July with light red flowers.

Tillandsia Jellyfish Head - the most exotic look tillandsia. Very popular with gardeners for its hardiness and appearance. It grows in the form of a bulb with tightly closed leaf bases. At the top of the outlet, the leaves are bent to the sides. The leaf rosette usually hangs upside down. It has linear or finger-shaped red inflorescences and bright purple-blue flowers up to 3 cm long.

Tillandsia Sitnikova

Tillandsia cinnamon

Tillandsia Sitnikova has reed leaves collected in fancy panicles. The rosette is formed airy, but rather bushy. The length of the leaves reaches 50 cm. During flowering, a magnificent red bract appears in the center of the rosette, on which small purple flowers bloom in turn.

Tillandsia Violetflower

Tillandsia Violetflower resembles exotic corals. It forms small rosettes, no higher than 5 cm in height and width, from thin curved leaves. This tillandsia is able to gain a foothold anywhere and grow in almost any climate zone. Silvery curved leaves are hard to the touch, cone-shaped in appearance. In the summer months before flowering, the inner leaves of the plant turn red. The inflorescences grow small, spiky, blue-violet in color, and the upper red leaves seem to be part of this wonderful flower.

Tillandsia Protruding

Tillandsia protruding

Tillandsia erectus stands out for the bright color of its gray-green leaves, which are collected in a dense rosette. The leaf plates are covered with gray scales and have a narrow, not wider than 1 cm, and long, up to 20 cm, triangular shape. Short peduncles are curved and crowned with a dense spike-shaped inflorescence, on which oval bracts of bright acrylic, often pink, colors are arranged spirally. The flowers are not so interesting, their color is usually blue or purple, not flashy.

tricolor tillandsia

It is a compact epiphyte with linear gray-green leaves collected in a wide rosette. Peduncles, straight and long, have the shape of an ear or several ears with long bracts of three colors: the bottom of the inflorescence is colored reddish, the middle is yellow, and the top is greenish-light green in color with purple flowers.

Tillandsia Louisiana moss

This is a typical representative of the air tillandsia. It grows in the form of thin long, up to 8 m, shoots hanging from the branches of trees and from rocks. This instance has no roots at all. The plant receives nutrients from rainwater, which dissolves dust accumulated there, plant residues, waste products of microorganisms and algae on the surface of the leaves. When grown at home, Louisiana moss does not need to be strengthened on a support - it will be enough to hang such a tillandsia, for example, on the wall. If only there was an opportunity to grow it down.

Accommodation

Tillandsia atmospheric does not need soil. Therefore, on sale they should not be looked for in pots, but in the form of decorative compositions on a stone, on a piece of bark or wood. Try to immediately decide on the place for growing an atmospheric friend in your home, because excessive tying, tying, hanging and re-gluing a flower injures its delicate stems and twigs.

So, when grown at home, these flowers can be attached at the base of the rosette to trellises, pieces of bark, wood, or to a special design for epiphytes that are sold in stores. It is good to use sawn cypress or larch wood for support, as well as beautiful stones and roots. The main thing is to create conditions for the plant that will not interfere with the free growth of its roots and shoots. The fastening material can be: soft wire, nylon threads or any instant waterproof glue that is applied to the dry part of the stem and the flower is glued, for example, to the bark.

But it is impossible to use treated wood coated with paint or varnish for the base, just like mounting foam or gypsum fibre.

Soon the plant will grab onto the support and begin to develop the territory. Consider the moment that, after attaching the tillandsia to the support, you will need to immerse it, along with the support, headlong into the water from time to time. Therefore, for your convenience and in order to less injure the flower, attach it to a small bar, which is then placed on the main composite structures in the room.

Sometimes the rosette is wrapped in sphagnum moss to create the extra moisture needed for atmospheric tillandsia.

If you are too lazy to attach a flower to a support, you can use ordinary stones, of course, washed well first. To grow Tillandsia on rocks, you just need to put the flower on top and wait until it fixes itself on the rocks and sprouts new young shoots.

You can also place an exotic guest in a flat beautiful vase, bowl or even a candy bowl, just make sure that water does not accumulate in the container. Drain it on time. If the plant is constantly wet, it will rot.

Another good way cultivation of atmospheric tillandsia - in low flower pot filled with some fibrous material and pieces of tree bark. Make a small hole and place the epiphyte in it. For greater stability, tie the plant to the pot with a soft nylon bandage. After a few weeks, the flower itself will hold on to the support. In this type of cultivation, it is most convenient to maintain high soil moisture.

Temperature

Atmospheric tillandsias do not like high temperatures, they prefer a cooler content than potted specimens. Daytime summer temperature is permissible up to 25 degrees, at night - not lower than 15 degrees. In winter, from November to February, the optimum temperature for them is 14 - 18 degrees, and not lower than 12 degrees.

Lighting

Atmospheric tillandsias are considered shade-tolerant, even shade-loving plants but they also need sunlight. It is especially useful for them to meet the rays of the morning sun and the sun at sunset. Therefore, find a place for the plant near the east or northwest windows. At home, they prefer light penumbra, although in nature they calmly tolerate the bright sun of tropical forests, where the level of illumination is much higher. This must be taken into account in winter time year and rearrange the compositions with tillandsia to lighter places to the southeast or west windows. In addition, in order to achieve long-term, up to 14 hours a day, lighting of flower arrangements, you will have to resort to artificial lighting. It has been observed that atmospheric Tillandsia species can grow in full artificial light.

Ambient humidity

We remember that epiphytes feed and absorb moisture with leaves from the air. Therefore, it is very important for them to have high humidity in the room, not lower than 75%. It is necessary to maintain at least this indicator. In the morning, spray the plant daily with warm settled water, only during flowering - do not fall on the peduncle. We recommend that you cover the peduncle with a plastic bag during spraying.

In winter, the air in the apartments is much drier. If you don't have a humidifier, you won't be able to keep a constant high humidity indoors with just misting. One option is to purchase a special florarium for growing tillandsia. Some flower growers grow this epiphyte in the bathroom, where they create excellent living conditions for it. Other optimists grow them in aquariums with artificial lighting and temperature and humidity controls, in glass vases, in flower displays - everywhere this plant becomes an interior decoration and the pride of the owner - the grower.
But, it must be borne in mind that these exotics must have access to fresh air, enjoy its freely circulating flows. The room must be regularly ventilated. Don't place Tillandsias in corners or too close to other indoor flowers. In the summer, take the flowers out into the fresh air for a walk and breathe - your pets will really like it. But don't let the cold wind blow or the rain soak the tender shoots of exotics. And ice drafts should never be arranged - not a single houseplant likes this.

Watering

Watering these plants is done by spraying. In hot summer weather, this procedure is carried out daily, or even several times a day, and less frequently in spring and autumn. Once a week, it is advisable to immerse the entire flower in water so that it is completely saturated with life-giving moisture. In winter, with the heaters turned on, spraying and bathing the flower in warm water should be continued. If the room becomes noticeably colder, reduce the frequency of humidifying the green friend. Watch your tillandsia. If its leaves began to curl into a tube along the central vein, the plant clearly lacks water, dehydration begins. Urgently place the flower in a container with settled water, for three to four hours. The ideal water is rainwater. If the tillandsia lives in a planting container, it is necessary to drain excess water from the flower - it is not advisable to allow water to stagnate in the center of the outlet! Water should flow freely or dry within two to three hours after bathing.

fertilizers

Atmospheric tillandsias require almost no fertilizer. If they are planted on bark or a piece of tree, they will decompose slowly and provide enough nutrients for the growth and development of your exotic. Moreover, these plants, eating, purify the air in your room from harmful substances. If you still want to feed your pet, add a small amount of liquid mineral fertilizer to the Tillandsia bath water or sprayer. You can use special top dressing for orchids or universal fertilizers for flowering houseplants. Only divide the norm from the package by 4 - this will be the maximum allowable dose for epiphytes. It is advisable to do top dressing no more than once or twice a month. In winter, do not feed the plant, it can get sick from this or even die.

Transplanting Atmospheric Tillandsias

Sell epiphytic types of tillandsia on pieces of bark, stones, bars. In the same form, they are in your home. Transplanting them, as such, is not required at all. We can talk about a new landing - or rather, about fixing the purchased exotic in the place allotted to it in your interior.

reproduction

If necessary, propagate atmospheric tillandsia as follows: cut off a shoot of the size you need or an epiphyte rosette with or without roots, powder the cuts with crushed activated charcoal and attach or place them in a new place you need. Tillandsia grows slowly, be patient. Although, with good humidity and proper lighting, soon enough new shoots will gain a foothold on a new support and start growing. Congratulations - you have a new copy in the collection of exotics.

Diseases

Atmospheric tillandsia has a risk of infection with fungal or viral diseases. Especially dangerous - gray rot. The cause of diseases is banal - the florist's mistakes when growing an exotic plant. The leaves become transparent, spots appear on them, they begin to blacken. Or the base of the outlet begins to rot.

The most probable mistakes in keeping Tillandsia at home:

The humidity in the room is too low, the leaves of the plant are twisted. It is necessary to increase the humidity in the room with the epiphyte by any means - spray the tillandsia, bathe, put it on wet moss.
Your pet is stuck in the wrong place and suffers from direct sunlight. Rearrange the plant in partial shade or under the scattered rays of the sun;
When airing the room, you arrange frequent drafts that are detrimental to the flower. It is necessary to ventilate the premises, but at the same time try to maintain the usual temperature, avoiding its sharp fluctuations;
Your epiphyte has rotted the base of the outlet. Perhaps he lives in a beautiful vase, but you forget to drain excess water from it. Avoid prolonged waterlogging of the place where the epiphyte is kept. Another possible reason is watering the plant with fertilizer water.

Epiphytes do not water or pour fertilizer into the planting container. Fertilizers in small quantities are added to sprayers, and through spraying the leaves and shoots, the plant receives the necessary nutrients. In addition, fertilizers can be dissolved in a container for bathing a flower (do not forget to reduce the rate by 4 times from that indicated on the package).
Analyze your actions. Correct the mistakes and avoid them in the future. Treat the diseased plant. Remove parts of the flower damaged by the disease, and spray the plant with copper-containing preparations. We are sure that everything will work out for you, and everything will return to normal. Atmospheric tillandsias are quite unpretentious and responsive to careful home care and proper maintenance.

Pests

If you have acquired tillandsia without roots, an epiphyte, you have acquired a miracle of nature! Now you will constantly admire its extraordinary appearance, rejoice at its property - to live without roots where it was your pleasure to place it. With this unpretentious exotic, you can decorate any corner of your apartment, even the bathroom. For sure, Tillandsia will amaze your guests and become the pride of your indoor flower collection.

Tillandsia is an unusual and exotic plant. He is loved and appreciated for his decorative effect, and the types of tillandsia are completely different from each other. Unusual in their shape, color, flowering and growth method, these amazing flowers have conquered many flower growers and decorators. The most interesting thing is that these exotic epiphytes are the closest relatives of pineapple.

Origin and appearance of the plant

The native home of this exotic plant is the tropics and subtropics of South and Central America. Tillandsia belongs to the genus Bromeliad and has more than 500 varieties. The most common are divided into atmospheric and potted:

Atmospheric species do not have a developed root system, and root processes are used only to attach themselves to a tree trunk, stone or snag. They feed from the air, getting the necessary moisture and nutrients. The leaves are similar to succulents - fleshy with a supply of moisture inside. They grow in the form of a rosette or randomly twisted long shoots, taking uncomplicated forms. The peculiarity of atmospheric tillandsia is that the plant blooms once in a lifetime.

In the wild, the flower likes to be placed on trees.

Potted ones are more like regular ones houseplants. Grow in loose, airy soil, preferring the top leafy layer in the wild. The root is poorly developed, the plant receives the bulk of its nutrition from the air. The leaves are green, glossy, juicy.

Blooming atmospheric and potted tillandsia

Descriptions of the plant's flower

Tillandsia flowers look like fantastic drawings by the artist. Such unusual tropical bright colors are collected in no less strange inflorescences. Atmospheric flowers bloom with colorful fountains. Their flowers consist of petals that look almost like leaves, but have bright colors and color transitions on one petal. The stamens are long and stand out brightly in a different color.

Potted tillandsia has a developed bract, which has the form of a single-row or multi-row spike. From its dense axils, flowers appear alternately. Ears of bright light shades, the flowers are just as bright, but darker.

Flowering of unusual exotics

Species and varieties

The most popular among Russian flower growers:

Tillandsia Anita. This species is a hybrid and is loved and bred for its colorful blooms. Home care for Tillandsia Anita comes down to providing warmth, which all bromeliads love so much, and high humidity. Nutritious and light soil must be constantly moist, air humidity is not lower than 60% for comfortable growth. Lighting is not bright, diffused light. You can fertilize by spraying, since these plants feed through the leaves, not the roots.
Tillandsia is an aerophyte that does not have a root system. It feeds exclusively from the air, which must be sufficiently moist and fresh. In summer the temperature should not be higher than 22°С, in winter not lower than 15°С. To maintain optimal humidity requires spraying up to five times a day, but will thank rapid growth and decorativeness of their falling silver lashes. Reproduces by shoots.
Tillandsia atmospheric in care is unpretentious, if you create the appropriate conditions. The leaves are fleshy, gray due to small scales. It tolerates penumbra well, but it needs a constant flow of fresh air, as well as 70% humidity. Temperature regime need 22°C and 15°C in summer and winter, respectively. Likes temperature fluctuations different time day, similar to the natural cycle of day and night. You can take it outside in the summer, attaching it to trees, shrubs, verandas.
Tillandsia blue. In the wild, it grows on the bark of trees, but at home it can huddle in a pot, but in an airy substrate. Likes light, but not direct sunlight. With a lack of light, it loses the rich color of leaves and inflorescences. Watering is not needed often, it requires more moisture through spraying, but without stagnant moisture at the base of the leaves. After flowering, the blue beauty begins to grow with children, slowly dying off, therefore it does not require a transplant.
Tillandsia xerographica has hard succulent leaves with a decorative silver rosette. It can grow up to 50 cm in height. It has the ability to accumulate moisture in its curled leaves. Requires frequent watering and moisture in the fresh air, as it does not have a root system.

Tillandsia Anita: flower and peduncle

Tillandsia Head of Medusa. A fairly common bromeliad due to its unpretentiousness and decorativeness. It resembles a bulb of densely collected leaves, which only at the top deviate and begin to curl in a spiral. It has no roots, feeds on the type of all atmospheric species.
Tillandsia Cotton Candy is an easy-to-care aerophyte. It adapts to the temperature of Russian apartments, in winter it can tolerate a decrease to 12 ° C. Watering is not needed often, spraying every other day. Demanding only to the light: it should be a lot, it grows even in direct sunlight.
Tillandsia Samantha is a bright evergreen representative of the species. Saturated glossy leaves and voluminous colorful flowering allow her to be demanding in care. It can grow in a pot or planter, but the root is developed only as a fastener. Frequent watering and spraying without accumulation of moisture in the foliage is all she needs as a source of nutrition. Good lighting and fresh air will create all the conditions for Samantha to bloom.
Tillandsia Ionanta, or violet-flowered, is an unusual species with beautiful flowers. It often grows in florariums, as it is a small bush. He likes to bathe in a shower or in baths with full immersion once every half a month. Requires abundant light, but not bright rays.
Bulbose has stems, which means it tends to store moisture in its thick stems similar to bulbs. Atmospheric exotic is very easy to care for, requires abundant watering, humidity and diffused light. The temperature is moderate, hibernates without whims. Blooms continuously during the summer months.

Species and flowering

Landing and transplant

A plant that was just brought from the store is better to transplant. If the acquired plant has released an arrow of the peduncle, the transplant may help the flower dry out. After 3-4 years, in the absence of flowering, potted species can also be transplanted. In the wild, this handsome man grows on the top layer of the earth or on the bark of trees, the mind does not need soil as such.

Important! In normal soil, the plant rots.

For planting and transplanting plants, you need pieces of bark with the addition of moss, peat, sand, akadama, river pebbles, coconut fiber. The pot should be taken wide and low, the smallest size relative to the plant. Clay and ceramic pots will not allow the root system to suffocate in the soil.

Plastic pots should have plenty of drainage holes.

How to transplant:

Soil and pot must be sterilized in the oven or steam.
Taking the plant out of the pot, carefully examine its roots. If there are dry or rotten areas, remove and charcoal.
Dried or old bottom sheets are removed during transplantation.
Charcoal should be used as a drainage layer.
Pour the soil mixture on top, then plant the plant steadily and fill it with the rest of the soil.
If the top roots are peeking out of the pot, they can be cut off.

Atmospheric species do not need soil, they feel great in limbo. They are hung on a wire, soft ribbon or rope. Also, a flower can cling with its roots to pieces of bark, stones covered with moss, or shells.

Option to place atmospheric views on stands

reproduction

Propagating Tillandsia is simple - just wait for the children after flowering of an adult plant or plant seeds.

Reproduction by shoots

One plant can give from 3 to 8 children, which eventually grow and fill the entire area, the mother plant dies. They need to be cut from the outlet when they grow to half the size of an adult plant and they have roots.

Note! Atmospheric plants do not always die after the appearance of children, they can be planted from the parent without harming him.

Growing from seed

Only potted species propagate by seeds. There is no way to get seeds at home, they are purchased. You need to plant on a mixture of peat and sand, without immersing the seed in the soil. Moisten the soil by spraying, be sure to tighten the pot with foil and put in a warm place not lower than 25 ° C. Tillandsia sprouts for a long time and reluctantly.

When growing Tillandsia from seeds, an adult plant blooms only after 2-3 years.

Tillandsia home care

The flower requires the following care:

watering frequent and plentiful for air plants without roots. They like showering or full immersion in water for a while twice a month. Spraying and maintaining a high level of humidity create ideal conditions for growth and flowering. Water should be purified, soft and slightly acidic;
you need to feed it with special fertilizers for Bromeliads once every two months. Top dressing should not contain copper and boron;
if the flower has lost its brightness, it is enough to provide it with good lighting, and it will begin to turn green again;
care should be taken more carefully during the dormant period, as the temperature drops and prevents excess water in the outlet from evaporating. It is important to ensure that moisture does not stagnate, creating an environment for the development of rot and fungus.

To create outlandish compositions, the tillandsia plant takes first place among decorators.

This unusual exotic does not require much compared to the full return of the beauty and decorativeness of its appearance and exotic flowering. The main thing is to follow the rules described above.

Tillandsia is a herbaceous plant from the bromeliad family. Currently, about 500 varieties of this unusual plant are known. Of these, I would like to single out a rather interesting species - atmospheric tillandsia. A feature of this pet is the absence of a root system - it receives all the necessary nutrients by spraying through the foliage.

Description

In the natural environment, tillandsias are found on a vast territory: from the USA to the borders of Chile in a variety of natural and climatic zones. This flower grows in the humid tropics, and in the conditions of the arid savannah, and in semi-desert lands, and even in the mountains. That is why the forms of the plant differ in many ways, but they are united by one thing - they are all are 100% epiphytes.

Atmospheric tillandsias deserve special attention - they live on snags and trees, clinging to them with small hook-nosed roots, while the nutrients and water necessary for life are obtained directly from the air thanks to special villi on the leaf plates. As a rule, atmospheric tillandsias grow on the highest branches, hanging down. This variety is distinguished by its love of bright light and coolness.

To date, many varieties of this unusual flower have been successfully adapted for growth and development at home.

Kinds

Among the most popular tillandsia varieties allocate the following instances.

Usneiform. In its natural environment, it lives in the tropical forests of America. It has rather short thin hanging stems, its leaves are shortened, narrowed at the ends, the length varies from 3 to 10 cm, they have a pronounced gray tint. Plants develop successfully without supporting structures, live well in suspension and in most cases grow in cascades from 0.5 to 2 m. The flowers are yellow or blue, flowering usually occurs in the summer.

Violet-flowered. It has rather miniature rosettes 4-5 cm high, the leaves are hard, cone-shaped. The flowers are blue-violet, with oblong petals. Flowering occurs in the summer months, shortly before the buds appear, the inner leaves begin to turn red.

Silver. This species is native to Mexico and Cuba. It differs in elongated leaves, the length of which is 6-10 cm, and the width is 1.5-2 cm. The leaves are expanded at the base, grow in a chaotic manner, forming a rather tight rosette. Stems shortened. Summer flowering, scarlet buds and flowers.

"Head of a Medusa". In its form, this kind of atmospheric epiphyte resembles an ordinary onion, the rosette near the base is quite tightly closed and only as it approaches the top begins to open and bend to the sides. The inflorescences are very decorative, deep blue, the bracts are red.

Tillandsia protruding. This species is distinguished by narrow (1-1.5 cm) and elongated (up to 20 cm) triangular leaves, the shade is saturated green, the leaf plates are covered with grayish scales. The peduncle is very short, the inflorescences visually resemble a spikelet. Flowering is summer, the shape of the flower is elongated, the shade is light pink.

Tricolor. This is perhaps one of the most beautiful varieties of tillandsia, it has a very unusual color: the petals are bright green on top, yellow in the center, and reddish below. It turns out the "traffic light" on the contrary. The shape of the flower petals is diamond-shaped. Sheet plates are collected in a strong socket.

Duera. A rather exotic variety, in the flowering phase visually resembles a rowan leaf. The leaves are narrowed, tongue-shaped, collected in a strong rosette. The flowers are very small, white-pink.

Anita. This is a selectively bred type of tillandsia. The leaf plates are pointed, rather narrow, covered with small grayish scales, the ear with bracts is distinguished by a lilac or pink color, the buds and flowers are of a deep blue hue.

Home Care

In order for atmospheric tillandsia to grow and develop successfully, it needs a comfortable habitat. Let us dwell in more detail on certain aspects of caring for this unusual plant.

Lighting

The epiphyte must develop on the east or west windows. These green pets are quite difficult to grow, in most cases they are grown in florariums, as well as in special decorative bottles. Therefore, when grown from the south side in direct sunlight, a burn and death of tillandsia are possible.

Flowers do not need additional lighting from November to March, they calmly tolerate shading and short daylight hours, moreover, artificial lighting is enough for them to function normally, so you can grow an epiphyte not only on window sills, but also in the depths of a residential building.

Temperature

As for the temperature background, epiphytes are classified as fairly hardy plants. In their natural environment, they often encounter short-term temperature fluctuations, and even a decrease in heat level to 12-13 degrees does not harm them. This property was also transferred to artificially created varieties intended for cultivation at home.

Atmospheric tillandsias require an influx of fresh air, despite the fact that they are usually referred to as greenhouse crops. Therefore, in the room where they grow, it is necessary to regularly arrange ventilation. At the same time, drafts can destroy the flower; when opening the windows, try to move it to a place protected from the wind.

In summer, epiphytes can be placed on a balcony or terrace, protected from direct sunlight, raindrops and hail. With the onset of cold weather, it is better to bring Tillandsia back into the house.

Watering

Separately, it is worth dwelling on the features of irrigation, the point here is that epiphytes get the moisture they need as a result of spraying. But at the same time, it is very important that the liquid accumulated in the substrate does not stagnate, and in the hot months the soil mixture should not be allowed to dry out. You can monitor the literacy of irrigation by appearance flower - if it lacks moisture, then the leaves will begin to curl.

Atmospheric tillandsia require fairly high humidity - up to 80%, but in a residential environment, maintaining this parameter is quite problematic and unsafe for residents, therefore, multiple spraying should be combined with the installation of an air humidifier. for irrigation only soft water should be used: settled, spring or filtered. Tap water contains a lot of chlorine, which leads to leaf diseases. The water temperature should be 5-6 degrees warmer than room temperature. In the flowering phase or if the room temperature drops below 15 degrees, spraying should be stopped.

One way to water atmospheric tillandsia is to place it in water. To do this, very carefully, without separating the flower from the support, place it in a vessel with water. As soon as the base is completely saturated, the flower must be pulled out, and then the moisture should be completely drained from the leaves.

The soil

In the natural environment, these tillandsias live on rotted tree bark, therefore, for growing at home, you need to use soil formulated for orchids. If desired, you can make the soil mixture yourself, for this purpose, combine in equal proportions:

pieces of bark of coniferous trees;
clay granulate;
river stones;
coconut fibre.

Epiphytes should not be planted in ordinary garden soil, since tillandsia does not take root in it, this flower needs substrate with high air permeability. However, for epiphytes, you can not use the soil at all - it is absolutely not needed to maintain the normal life of the plant.

When creating a decorative composition, you can take any snag, an imitation of the ruins of an old castle, or interesting stones - they are used as a support and favorably emphasize the Tillandsia leaves.

top dressing

Epiphytes develop very slowly, and in order to speed up this process, light top dressing should be carried out monthly - for this, ready-made preparations for bromeliads are bought, which are diluted in accordance with the instructions, and then the leaf plates are sprayed with them.

Fertilizer is used only in the spring-summer period at the time of plant activity., in winter, top dressing must be stopped, otherwise flower buds will not form. It is strictly forbidden to use organic fertilizers and urea - they contain high concentrations of nitrogen, and it is detrimental to atmospheric tillandsia.

Reproduction methods

Atmospheric tillandsia is propagated vegetatively in two main ways: seeds or babies. The first method is quite laborious and lengthy, for this the seeds are planted in a special soil, the container is covered with glass and plastic wrap. Keep in mind that Tillandsia seeds germinate very quickly, but immediately after that, growth slows down dramatically - about 10 years pass from the moment the first shoots appear to flowering.

Tillandsia is an indoor exotic. Many varieties are grown without soil, for example, on snags. This is the main problem. The plant needs high humidity, because the roots are in contact with the air, and nutrition comes through the leaves. When leaving at home, the flower is often sprayed, watered by immersion in water. Do not treat with chemicals and feed with conventional fertilizers.

Tillandsia is a plant that does not need soil

Tillandsia is native to the tropics and subtropics. In the wild, it grows in equatorial Africa, in the southern states of America, as well as in Chile, Argentina, and Mexico. Plants belong to the Bromeliad family, and their main feature is 100% epiphytes. Tillandsias live on trees and snags, which they cling to with small hooked roots. These flowers take water and nutrition from the air with the help of special scales (villi) on the leaves.

Tillandsia in the wild

There are many species that differ in size (from 5 cm to 3 m), the shape of leaves and flowers. Characteristic colors: pink stipules and blue, blue, purple, pink, less often yellow flowers. But all the diversity can be divided into two groups: atmospheric and terrestrial (grassy). Each species needs moisture, but the requirements for light and heat are different.

Atmospheric tillandsias live at the top of the tree canopy

Atmospheric tillandsias grow on the branches of the upper tier, usually hang down, have gray thread-like leaves. This species loves bright sun and coolness. And the terrestrial ones settle on the lower part of the trunk, fallen trees, snags and stones covered with moss, that is, where there is less light, it is calm, which means it is warmer. Outwardly, they look like ordinary indoor flowers, have green leaves collected in a rosette, and a small root system.

ground tillandsia

Despite the exoticism, indoor species of these "tropics" are easy to grow at home. They need minimal care, the main thing is to find a suitable place and provide high humidity.

Types of indoor flowers of this type

Usniform tillandsia, the second name is mossy. This atmospheric plant is devoid of roots, and clings to branches with thin stems. The length of the shoots is only 15–25 cm. Then new ones are formed, but the old ones do not die off. Gradually, generation after generation grow magnificent lashes, similar to beards. The leaves are narrow, subulate, covered with whitish hairs. In summer, the tops of young shoots are crowned with modest green-yellow flowers.
Tillandsia Silver has the same leaves as most atmospheric species: thin, filiform. In the sun, the plant appears silvery. The main feature is the thickened base of the rosette, resembling an onion, rejuvenated. It blooms with small blue-red flowers.
Tillandsia Bootsy (butzi) looks like a tangled bundle of green wires. Only by looking closely, you can understand that this is a living plant. But the thickness of the leaves is uneven. At the tips they are thin, and towards the base they expand and form a pseudo-onion. The maximum height of the plant is 40–60 cm. The flowers are long, tubular, with a pink bract and purple petals. Bootsy, unlike most Tillandsias, produces many babies before flowering.
Tillandsia Andre is very decorative due to thin, backward curved leaves, but there are varieties with straight leaves. In any case, there is a brown or gray pubescence. Andre's height is no more than 25 cm. The peculiarity of the species is that the peduncle (ear) is almost absent, that is, the buds bloom at the very base of the rosette.
The violet-colored tillandsia is not much different from the rest of the atmospheric ones, but in the summer it changes. Violet or white flowers appear on spike-shaped peduncle. The leaves inside the rosette change color from silvery green to red.
Tillandsia Head of Medusa really looks like a marine life. The swollen and twisted leaves resemble tentacles. The peduncle is flat, bright pink, the flowers are blue. After flowering, the ear changes color to golden yellow.
Tillandsia Blue is named for its purple, bright blue, or blue flowers. This herbaceous species is grown as a pot culture. The leaves are narrow and long (up to 25 cm) collected in a rosette. They are green along their entire length, but red-brown at the base, plus brown stripes run along each leaf. The pink or red peduncle has the shape of a flattened ear, the maximum height is 16 cm, the width is 7 cm.
Tillandsia Anita during flowering is very similar to Blue, as it is its hybrid. In addition, atmospheric tillandsia was used in the creation of the species. As a result, the leaves of this herbaceous plant have a gray tint.
Tillandsia Duera comes with narrow leaves, like atmospheric ones. Also bred Duer with wide leaves. The inflorescence is a large and flat ear. Moreover, it is not dense, like that of Blue and Anita, but loose, it grows on a long petiole.

Many flower growers mistakenly believe that all Tillandsia with green leaves are terrestrial, herbaceous, and those with gray leaves are atmospheric. In fact, many hybrids have been bred with thin leaves, like atmospheric ones, but green in color, and there are herbaceous ones with gray leaves.

To determine which tillandsia is in front of you, its appearance in the store will help. If it is attached to a snag, used in compositions with branches, pebbles, shells, then it is atmospheric. Ground sold as normal indoor flower, in a pot with a substrate.

Transplantation is done in the spring, every 2-3 years. This season, you need to buy a flower.

It does not make sense to transplant a blooming tillandsia bought in a store, because after flowering it dies, forming lateral offspring. You need to wait for them to grow and plant them.
Rules for transplanting a non-flowering potted tillandsia:

Soil preparation. The soil should consist of large fractions 1–2 cm in size. Do not use mixtures that include sticky and fibrous particles. Even if the package in the store says "for Bromeliads", you need to read the composition. The presence of humus, peat, earth is unacceptable. Tillandsia roots will rot in such mixtures. Pieces of bark can be used as soil or mixed with river stones. Coconut chips and akadama or seramis granules are also suitable. The last two components are natural clay that does not soak in water. Large fractions of the substrate will provide air access to the roots.
Pot selection. A small and shallow container with a diameter of about 10 cm is suitable. The main thing is that the pot must be stable and not turn over under the weight of the flower. Charcoal can be used as drainage, which will protect against root rot and mold.
Transfer principle. Even a potted herbaceous Tillandsia only needs roots to absorb moisture from the air and run off the leaves, and to hold it in place. Therefore, when transplanting, do not be afraid to damage the roots. If the Tillandsia needs it, it will grow new ones. You can even put it with open roots in a cup for a while, and nothing will happen. Therefore, when transplanting, we calmly release the plant from the old soil and place it in a new pot, at the same depth at which it grew before.
Watering: from a spray bottle with warm settled water inside the outlet or by immersing the pot with drainage holes in water for 20 minutes.

To plant an indoor flower at the same depth, you need to grab it with your fingers near the ground, turn it upside down in a pot and take out the plant with its roots. Then, without moving the fingers, lower the roots down, slightly shake off the soil, place in a new pot and fall asleep so that the fingers are again above the surface itself.

Landing of atmospheric variety

Atmospheric tillandsias do not need soil. Plants are attached to snags, raw bars or felt. You can not use materials treated with chemicals, varnishes, paint, only pure natural materials will do. Flowers bought in the store and already attached to the stands do not need to be transplanted. Only children who grow after flowering are seated.

Landing steps:

Select stand. The simplest and beautiful solutions: tree bark with a piece of wood, a fragment of a branch or root, a small wicker basket. It should be borne in mind that the tillandsia will have to be immersed with this stand in water, that is, water should easily penetrate inside and drain quickly.
Decide on a location. The stand should harmoniously fit into the interior, at the same time you need to create the conditions that Tillandsia prefers. Pieces of wood can be hung on the wall. To do this, drill a hole in the upper part, thread the wire and make a loop out of it.
Press the Tillandsia to the stand with the root neck, spine inward. To make the plant more comfortable and easier to gain a foothold, place a soft pad of coconut fibers or sphagnum moss between the root and the stand.
Secure the plant with a soft elastic thread or sheathed wire, preferably the color of the stand or plant.
Spray from a spray bottle and install or hang.

The Medusa's head is attached to a piece of wood with bark with the help of a rubber band with the roots to the bark.

Tillandsia should not be untied and tied often just because you don’t like the stand, and you can’t move it from place to place, turn it on different sides to the light.

Planting tillandsia in the florarium

Tillandsia needs high humidity, the flower has to be sprayed several times a day, and if there is not enough time, buy a humidifier or install it nearby indoor fountains, bowls with water, etc. Therefore, it is much easier to keep such a plant in a florarium, where the necessary microclimate is created: glass scatters light, condenses moisture and prevents rapid evaporation.

Tillandsia in the florarium

Stages of landing in the florarium:

Be sure to choose a suitable container with transparent walls. You can use plastic and glass containers: aquariums, florariums, as well as vases, candy bowls, wine glasses, glasses. The choice depends only on the capabilities and imagination of the grower and, of course, on the size of the flower.
Select material. For nautical theme broken clay shards or large river sand, pebbles can be laid on the bottom, and the tillandsia can be planted in a shell, filling it with sphagnum. If the plant is attached to a piece of wood, then pieces of charcoal mixed with bark will look good as drainage. Charcoal fine fractions, it is desirable to add to any florarium, to protect against fungal diseases.
Plant Tillandsia according to the instructions above: directly in the soil of the florarium, in a shell, attach to a tree, etc.
Water depending on the type of planting: spray in a florarium or pour into a shell, or hold it together with the bark in water, let it drain excess moisture and place in the florarium.

Watering

Tillandsias of any kind are watered by immersion in water with a pot or support for 20-30 minutes. At the optimum temperature for this plant, the procedure is carried out 2-3 times a week. Potted ones can be watered in the center of the outlet, but make sure that the water does not stagnate. After 20-30 minutes, the excess is drained. In addition, the entire plant is sprayed twice a day, and in florariums - twice a week.

In the warm season, the support, soil in a pot or florarium should always be wet. In winter, if the temperature has dropped, water as the surface dries. Curling of leaves along the midrib is a sign of dehydration. In this case, the tillandsia is immersed in water for 3-4 hours.

top dressing

Tillandsia should not be fed with fertilizers with a high content of nitrogen, boron, zinc and copper. Excluded are universal fertilizers for indoor flowers, as well as organic matter in the form of infusions of mullein, grass and droppings. There is no soil in the tillandsia soil, which means that there are no bacteria that process nitrogen into a compound available for absorption. Even fertilizers for Bromeliads should be treated critically, giving preference to those that contain a minimum amount of these elements. For example, “Master Color Archidea” is suitable, and “Bona Forte” has a lot of nitrogen, and the “Clean Leaf” mixture has a high content of zinc and boron. Do not spray with Epin, treat with Kornevin and other growth stimulants! Tillandsia grow very slowly, so in spring and summer it is enough to feed 1-2 times a month. Lack of feeding is not fatal, it is much more dangerous to overfeed.

Bloom

Tillandsia blooms only once in the second or third year of life. After that, she gives all her strength to the education of her children, and she herself dies. Flowering plant looks very exotic. The buds on the ear open one by one, each flower is short-lived, but the overall flowering can last several months. After the last bud has faded, in some varieties the spike retains its decorative effect for a long time. Therefore, the peduncle can be left and cut off. The mother plant will eventually die on its own.

After flowering, you must also continue to care for the plant and monitor the growth of children. One tillandsia produces 3-8 offspring. The next flowering will have to wait from them.

Tillandsia and winter calm

Winter. Tillandsia on a window without vents and a draft

In winter, when placed near a window, peace comes naturally: there is little sun and heat, the soil dries less often, development stops. It is important to remember the temperature limits for keeping Tillandsia. This tropical plant does not tolerate cold and drafts. A window with a window for winter placement is not suitable. If the flower is moved from the window into the room, then illumination with an ordinary fitolamp is necessary. Also, during the heating season, air humidity is greatly reduced (up to 45%), so the plant will have to be watered and sprayed even more often.

Is pruning necessary?

Tillandsia is a very compact flower with a short life cycle. She does not have extra whiskers, shoots and leaves. Only the peduncle can be cut, but this event is not of great importance, since the entire mother plant will die after it. However, instead of it, several young rosettes will remain, so the care continues. Some flower growers use a dried ear as a carrying handle, for example, for “water procedures”.

The only thing that can be cut off from Tillandsia is the old peduncle.

Care errors - table

Problem	care mistakes	How to help the flower?
Rotting and dying without any flowering	Planting in normal soil	Urgently change the soil or support! Moreover, if there are surviving children, separate them from the mother and seat them in different containers. Cannot be disinfected with rot fungicides. They will be absorbed into the bark for a long time. If desired, the new soil or support can be doused with boiling water or dried in the oven. Do not use old supports infected with mold and fungus!
	Excess moisture
	Excess fertilizer
Does not bloom	Lack of heat	Move the plant to another place with optimal conditions for Tillandsia, arrange lighting. In summer, if the temperature outside does not drop below +18 ⁰C, put it on the balcony.
	lack of lighting
	Sudden temperature changes
Leaf tips turn brown	Not enough moisture, hard water is used	Follow the rules of watering and moistening. Water should be at room temperature, settled and filtered.
The leaves are curling
The leaves have become wrinkled

Diseases and pests - table

Disease/Pest	Symptoms	Prevention and control
Exerochilum, leaf spot	Fungal disease of Brameliaceae. Mycelium is found in the soil, on plant debris and on the plant itself. First, blisters appear on the leaves, then they are replaced by brown spots and, at the end of development, black dots of the mycelium.	So far, no methods of treatment have been offered to flower growers, except for the destruction of Tillandsia. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to follow all the rules of care, to provide the plant with optimal: humidity, lighting and temperature. If 1-2 leaves are damaged, you can try to save the plant by removing them.
bromeliad scale insect	Brown insects stick to the leaf blade. Top covered with a wax shell.	Be careful with wooden spoon or shoulder blades remove the scale insect from the flower. Wash each leaf with soapy water using a soft sponge.

Most varieties are resistant to pests. In any case, it is undesirable to treat tillandsia with chemicals, because they feed on substances dissolved in water. And insecticides contain chlorine, acids, arsenic, sulfur, synthetic pyrethroids and other toxic elements. Any pests must be dealt with mechanically: rinse with water and remove severely damaged leaves.

Reproduction of tillandsia

The most popular way is to divide the bush into lateral processes. Transplantation is started when the diameter or height of young rosettes exceeds 5–6 cm. Planting is carried out according to the rules for adult plants outlined above. Children with proper care and maintenance will bloom in the second or third year.

Propagation by seeds is ineffective. The seeds are very small, they can get lost in coarse-grained soil, and rot in small fractions. It is recommended to sow on top of the epiphyte mixture, moisten and cover with a transparent lid. Shoots appear only in the light at a temperature of +25 ... +30 ° C.

Enlarged tillandsia shoot on wet bark

On the one hand, Tillandsia is unpretentious because it requires minimal care. You just need to know exactly which one. On the other hand, due to the peculiarities of nutrition, the plant is very sensitive to nitrogen fertilizers, some trace elements, insecticides, fungicides, and stimulants. That is, ideal conditions of detention are necessary so as not to resort to the help of dangerous chemistry.