The circular saw is most often used for precise, even cutting of wood and wood materials, but can also be useful for trimming light metals and plastics. It should have a guide for a circular saw: tire and carriage, parallel stop. When buying a tool, you should pay attention to this attention. Power and number of revolutions per minute - labor productivity, quality of work, the ability to saw hard materials depend on these parameters.
Homemade desktop mini-sawmill
A hand circular saw is an indispensable tool in the home workshop of a self-respecting owner. To work successfully, it must have a guide rail for a circular saw. Saw blades are of great importance, the quality and accuracy of cutting depends on their thickness and size of the teeth. The smaller the tooth, the cleaner the surface to be treated will be.
A well-equipped workshop has a hand-held electric tool that has a guide bar for a circular saw, hand-made and tuned for successful work. As well as a special connection for a vacuum cleaner and bags or containers for sawdust. This is very practical solution, because during long sawing you don’t have to stop every minute to remove workplace. This saw is manufactured by Bosch for professionals. In addition, it has the ability to adjust the angle of deviation from the vertical and the cutting depth.
The right choice of tool
Before buying, you should make sure that the selected tool provides the required depth of cut vertically and at an angle. An additional aspect that can facilitate normal operation is the length of the cable. If conditions are not favorable for the use of an extension cord, a saw with a long cable should be selected.
Offered saws from well-known manufacturers are equipped with a device for easy blade replacement, which further simplifies the work. This is an excellent electric tool that can be used for small repair work at home or in the garden.
For those people who love to craft, this mechanism is simply necessary. Thanks to its small size, it will always find a place even in a small home workshop.
Multi Tool Attachments
Novice craftsmen doubt that using a hand-held mechanical tool it is possible to make a cut in a straight line. This is true if you cut along the markup, but you can make the job easier by using a purchased or homemade guide,
Hand tools for woodworking, especially modern design, sometimes amaze with the number of auxiliary devices that help in sawing the material. The simplest auxiliary device is an ordinary stop on the base of the saw with an indicator of the line along which the cut will take place.
The most popular addition is short rail with adjustable extension length. More complex designs have a roller on such a guide so that the movement of the saw does not slow down when it comes into contact with the edge of the material.
Sometimes they put indicators showing laser cutting lines and other devices that have the same drawbacks. All these mechanisms serve to inform that the saw blade has gone beyond the cut line. Everything simple mechanisms indicate inaccurate sawing.
Why then all these systems that do not allow the amateur to perform a simple cut? Where is the error in this approach? All well-known woodworking machines for professional woodworking have a parallel clamping device for constant clamping of the processed material and rigid blocking. Often this stop moves. For professional tools, there is a guide rail for the Interskol hand-held circular saw on sale, which can be used for another overhead mechanism.
Then the tremor in the muscles of the forearm does not affect the direction of the cut, because this is controlled by a hard stop. Someone will say that surgeons do not use stops and are able to perform complex and precise operations. It probably is, but their material is more susceptible to machining, and perfectly straight lines do not matter.
To reduce the cost of purchasing a guide bar for a circular saw, you can make it yourself. Thanks to this DIY, the only thing you have to worry about during the cutting process is to firmly press the saw against the stop and slowly move it forward. The materials necessary for manufacturing, fixtures can be found in every workshop.
For example, a panel made of thick plywood should have a width greater than the width of the saw base by five centimeters. The length depends on the workpieces that will have to be cut. Optimal dimensions:
- length - about 1 meter;
- width - 50 cm.
The stop bar must be the same length as the length of the guide. The width must ensure reliable adhesion to the panel surface - at least 3 cm or even much wider. The height of the bar is at least 12 mm. Optimum stop size: 100 cm x 3 cm x 1.5 cm.
One note when choosing a rail in a supermarket - it should have one thin side of a flat. How to check it? Lay the rail on a flat table and check for a bulge or gap. It is this flat surface of the rail that will provide a straight cutting line.
When all the materials are collected, you can start making a parallel stop for a circular saw with your own hands. First you need to measure the distance between the saw and the edge of the panel towards its longest part. Add some 3 cm to the result obtained. This size will serve for the center line, 2 cm away from the edge.
Then measure the width of the saw base and draw a second line. This size is needed to highlight the area of the passage of the saw. Mark the space between the lines with a pencil so that there is no doubt that this area is turned off from work and is intended only for the movement of the saw. When all dimensions are drawn, start mounting the rail:
- Spread the rail with glue and attach along the second line intended for stop.
- Press with a clamp to ensure a secure bond.
- Leave for 12 hours for the adhesive to gain full strength.
When everything is securely fixed, you need to calibrate the device by making the first cut. To do this, set the saw to the stop, trying to make sure that the edge of the saw base is evenly pressed against the bar and make a cut with an even movement along the bar. It is this first cut along the thrust guide that will allow the device to be calibrated for further work.
When the stop is ready, you can safely use it to get a quick cut. On the material to be cut, mark the cutting line. Lay a new guide along this line so that the working edge lies on the line - the saw will cut the material exactly in this place.
After carefully laying and making sure that there is no countertop on the other side of the material being cut, press the saw firmly against the stop and, moving along the guide, cut off the required size of the material. While sawing, you need to lightly press the saw against the device and against the stop surface - this will ensure a straight cut. It must be moved smoothly and evenly. The end result is a straight line. There are two interesting things to note when using a handheld circular saw attachment:
In the carpenter's home workshop there is always a place for a homemade miter saw from a hand circular. To make it, you need to have a homemade guide ruler and a carriage for a circular saw.
To make a line you will need several pieces of 12 mm plywood and a 10x20 mm metal profile. The length of the ruler is 1.5 meters. Using a cutter with a diameter of 20 millimeters, a groove is milled to install the profile along the entire length of the device. The profile is fixed with screws. A stiffener is fixed parallel to the profile line at a distance of 12 centimeters.
Next, a do-it-yourself circular carriage is made from the same plywood. The size of the carriage is arbitrary and is taken under the base of the saw. The carriage has a groove for a profile mounted on a ruler. The basic dimensions are selected in such a way that the carriage lies on the profile and rests against the stiffener with its end. In addition to the groove, the carriage has a slot for the saw blade to exit.
A circular saw guide is a very simple but reliable device.. In order to cut sheets of material, you need to fix the saw in the carriage with two screws, attach the guide to the material, aligning the saw blade with the cutting line, turn on the saw and, moving the carriage along the ruler, cut off the desired workpiece.
The manufactured device can be made universal and used with both an ordinary hand saw and a plunge-cut saw. To do this, it is enough to remove from the line profile pipe and install a movable rail to which the saw is attached. To smoothly move the rail, the groove must be well rubbed with paraffin.
Cutting lumber at an angle
To cut the material at different angles, you need to have a special device for the sawing mechanism. If it is not possible to buy such a device, you need to think about how to make a homemade miter saw from a simple circular saw using available materials. In order for this device to have an angle stop, you need to have two structural nodes.
First node - rotary device. You can collect it from waste. To do this, you need a plate measuring 100x50x2 cm for the base. Attached to the base on the axis Rotary table in the form of a semicircle with angular markings - the so-called do-it-yourself protractor for a circular.
The second node is the saw table. Its size is 100x25x2 cm. A rectangular hole is made in the saw table for the saw blade to exit and a groove for the movable rail to which the saw is attached. The principle of operation is as follows:
Electric jigsaw as a sawmill
An electric jigsaw may well replace an electric saw when sawing a small amount of lumber and small workpieces. To do this, you need to make a guide for. The device is simple, even a novice master can do it.
From a board 800 long and 20 mm thick, make a guide for the base of the jigsaw. To do this, attach two slats of 10x10 millimeters to the edges of the board with screws. The distance between the rails is equal to the width of the base of the jigsaw. At the ends of the board, strengthen the slats with a length equal to the width of the working part and a height of 10 millimeters. In these rails, drill one hole with a diameter of 8 millimeters for fixing studs.
Make a table measuring 800x400x80 millimeters. To do this, attach slats 60x20 millimeters to the chipboard around the perimeter. Install two M8 studs on it along the edges of the table length. A guide will be put on and fixed on them. Cut a slot in the guide along the central axis for the exit of the jigsaw file. Make an additional window 120x40 mm for the output of the file when cutting the material at an angle.
On the table, make a graduation with a protractor, marking an angle of 90 and 45 degrees. According to the markup, install a rotary stop ruler. The device is ready and can be used in work. To do this, you need to set it to .
Homemade universal slider
For all of the listed guides, you can make one universal slider that fits any device. The slider consists of a metal profile and a carriage on bearings.
This design, consisting of self-made guides on bearings, is very convenient: easy to manufacture, easy to use, suitable for any guide device. The carriage has eight bearings: four thrust bearings and the same number of side bearings for fixing the carriage on the tire. As a tire, a profile guide in the form of a rail is used. Rail guides are particularly accurate, so they are used in the manufacture of furniture.
Circular and parallel stop, perhaps the most important device on the circular table. Therefore, I decided to take this project with all responsibility. I don't spend a lot of time sanding and shaping without the need for fillets on fixtures, cut it out, glue it, screw it together, and that's it. In my opinion extra beauty not always appropriate, but strength is always needed. Working with complex projects, I break them down into smaller components and work with them individually. Having at its disposal a thin aluminum parallel stop (photo on the right), it also had a number of inconveniences. The trouble is that for each new cut it is necessary to change the size of the stop setting, for this, moving the stop, we take into account the dimensions at the point where the workpiece was cut and at the exit point of the cut in relation to the saw blade, then we fix it with two handles. It's inconvenient and takes a lot of time.
Circular and parallel stop step-by-step manufacturing:
Step 1: Making the stop.
Cut three strips of laminated chipboard 1.1 m long and 8 cm wide, and then assemble them together to form a U-profile. According to the internal dimensions of the profile, make five blank inserts for rigidity and insert into the inside of the profile, they will create a square section necessary for the stop. The advantage of this stop is the possibility of using it on both sides of the saw blade (photo on the left).
Step 2: Making a guide channel for the stop.
The guide channel for the stop is made of two rails, has the shape of a U-shaped profile and is bolted to the end of the circular table, perpendicular to the saw blade.
Step 3: Assembling the Stop - Part 1
So, the circular and parallel stop now have a guide channel. Putting everything together, using a small piece of MDF in the shape of an inverted "T", it will be screwed on the back of the stop and inserted into the guide channel. The width of the channel directly depends on the thickness of the T-shaped MDF blank, which will ensure tight placement of the T-shaped piece in the channel.
Step 4: Assembling the Stop - Part 2
Align the positions of the fence using a metal ruler, this will ensure that the fence is parallel to the saw blade. Connect, firmly, together the stop and the T-shaped mounting piece. Working hard, I realized hardwood was better than MDF, replacing the MDF T-piece took almost a day. Any discrepancy in the ready settings will lead to changes in the general settings, be prepared for this.
Step 5: Stop Locking Mechanism.
In fixing the stop, slots for the original stop are used. The locking mechanism is simple: a threaded bolt and nut, a hole in the bottom strip of the rip fence, a wooden washer. By tightening the bolt, the block pulls the stop down to the tabletop and clamps it very hard.
A manual circular electric saw, which is simply called, is a convenient tool for cutting and cutting lumber.
Included with it are usually supplied devices that help the master in his work.
But the same devices can be made or improved with your own hands. Yes, and work experience will sooner or later lead to the appearance of completely home-made devices (as they are called), which, for all their simplicity, can greatly facilitate sawing and save time.
Parallel stop
A regular circular fence is a good example of how a small addition can make a big difference. Almost every hand-held circular saw is equipped with a parallel stop for longitudinal cutting of a given width. This is a really useful tool.
The standard stop has one drawback. For safety reasons, it is set to values that allow it to cut with a width of less than 20–25 mm. This is done so that the stop does not interfere with the movement of the protective casing of the saw. But it is enough to attach a wooden block to the parallel bar of the regular stop with screws - and its capabilities will increase, while the minimum cutting width will not be limited in any way.
Note! We must remember about safety - when making cuts less than 15 mm, the bar does not allow the protective cover to close the saw blade.
Stop for transverse and angled cuts
A cross cut device is also often used. With it, boards are cut quickly and accurately at an angle of 90 °. Such an emphasis is also used for trimming boards. Its base is a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick. A guide bar or rail with a height of at least 20 mm is fixed on it with glue or self-tapping screws. An emphasis is attached to the underside of the base, perpendicular to the guide and made of the same bar.
The excess part of the base (from the guide to the saw blade) is cut off. Since this distance is different for each model of a manual circular, the fixture is always made individually. It is usually attached to the material being processed with clamps.
Advanced craftsmen make their fasteners from wooden washers, one of which has the shape of an eccentric. The clamp is carried out with a wing nut on the screw. Such a clamping device allows you to very quickly fix the stop on lumber of different widths.
If you install the same bar on the other side of the guide, but fixed at an angle of 45 ° to the first one, and then also cut off part of the base at 45 ° with a saw, you will get an angular universal stop for cuts at both 45 ° and 90 °. A more versatile design of the corner stop will be obtained if the bar rotates. And observance of the angle can be monitored by the protractor, fixed on top. It should be noted that making a do-it-yourself protractor for a circular is a more difficult task.
saddle stop
If you have to saw a lot of identical bars with a circular saw, then you should spend time making a simple saddle stop. Its use will more than return the spent minutes. The saddle stop works especially effectively when sawing thick bars, for which the disc requires two cuts from different sides.
Emphasis-saddle has a U-shape. The base is a board 25 mm thick, its width is exactly equal to the thickness of the sawn timber.
Side surfaces of 10 mm plywood are attached to the base. The width of the sidewalls must be greater than the width of the cant in order to support the platform of the circular until the saw blade comes into contact with the cant.
The saddle is put on the beam at a distance from the cut marking, corresponding to the working distance to the saw blade, and is pressed against the beam with clamps through the sidewalls. Using the sidewall as a stop for the saw platform, cutting is carried out. If the thickness of the beam is such that one cut is not enough, then it is turned over and another cut is made. The position of the stop does not change in any way.
Guide bar
For cutting large and long sheets of lumber on the table, a long hand-made guide bar for a circular saw will be useful.
The basis in this case is (8–10 mm) plywood strip with a length exceeding the dimensions of the sheet to be cut. The tire itself can be wooden (a bar 15–20 mm thick) or metal from a U-shaped profile. The tire is attached to the base with glue or screws. On one side of it should remain a narrow edge of the base, sufficient for fastening to the sheet with clamps. On the other hand, the first cut is made with a saw along the base. After that, the edge of the base will exactly coincide with the passage of the circular disk. When working, it is combined with the markings on the sheet, the stop is fixed and the sheet is sawn.
Edge stop
This is already a rather complicated device that requires time and precision in manufacturing. It allows you to cut parallel to the edge of the material being cut. It will be useful to make a drawing of it before starting work, so as not to miss the size. In fact, such an emphasis is included in the circular saw kit, but its short length does not always provide an even cut. Big size and the desired strength require the manufacture of the support base from plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm. From it you can also make a stubborn bar.
Steps for making a stop:
- at the base, longitudinal grooves are made for the dowels;
- hardwood dowels are mounted on a thrust bar;
- between the longitudinal grooves, another through groove is made to secure the thrust bar during operation;
- a hole is cut in the base for the circular saw blade;
- on the sides of the base, restrictive strips are placed for the installation of a circular and clamps are provided for its secure fastening.
When the stop is placed on the material being processed, the stop bar moves in the grooves of the base to the required distance and is fixed through the through slot with a clamping wing screw. In order not to suffer every time with a ruler, you can fix it (or a piece of tape measure) on the basis of the stop along the guide grooves.
There are such small devices that even a tool is shameful to consider. At the same time, they are great for cutting. These are the tricks of experienced masters.
Setting bars
The simplest detail that facilitates the installation of any stop and a marking guide is a bar of small section. Cuts are applied on it, the distance between which is equal to the segment from the end of the saw sole to the saw blade. Two of these bars will help to install any guides quickly and accurately at the required distance from the marking line. It remains only to fix the guide.
Pull-out protection
Protection can be any bar, the width corresponding to the thickness of the workpiece being cut. If it is fixed at the exit point of the saw blade from the material being processed, it will act as a limiter and serve as protection against tearing and chipping.
These devices are not limited to a set useful homemade which make it easier to work with manual circular saw. These are the easiest to make. Others require time and skill. But craftsmen even make such a device as a protractor for a circular with their own hands. There would be a desire.
Parallel emphasis for a circular saw with your own hands can be made one of the options according to the proposed drawings.
What is common in a homemade guide- this is a base that moves along the plane of the table relative to the saw blade, which is made of standard aluminum rolled products (pressed profile of a rectangular unequal angle section of aluminum and magnesium alloys, profile number - 411158)
The dimensions of the shelves of the angle used in the section (mm):
Length - 70, thickness - 6
width - 41, thickness - 10
FIRST PERFORMANCE
The length of the corner is 450 (mm). In the wide shelf of the corner, we will drill three on both sides through holes eight millimeters in diameter, with the same pitch between the centers. We press two pins 8x18 into the extreme holes.
Between the pins, from the bottom of the table, an M8 bolt is inserted so that its threaded part goes into the groove, and the bolt head rests against the bottom plane of the table.
On top of the table, an M8 bolt is clamped with an M8 wing nut or a regular one.
How does a rip fence for a circular saw work?
1.
Loosen both wing nuts.
2.
3.
Tighten the wing nuts.
The movement of the corner is carried out in the direction of the grooves. The pins are the guides of the stop and allow you to move it relative to the saw blade without distortion (parallel).
VERSION SECOND
The length of the corner is 700 (mm). Along the edges of the corner, at the ends, we drill holes for the M5 thread and cut it. According to the drawing, we will make two guides from metal.
We attach them to the ends of the corner with screws with a cylindrical head for a hexagon (M5x25 GOST 11738-84). Screw M5 screws into the thread.
How does the rip fence for the circular saw of the proposed version work?
1.
Loosen the wing screws.
2.
We move the corner in the right direction relative to the saw blade.
3.
Tighten the wing screws.
The movement of the corner is carried out in the direction of the end surfaces of the table. Guides fixed at the ends of the corner allow you to move it relative to the saw blade without distortions (parallel).
On the surface of the table, draw a markup (ruler) to visually fix the position of the homemade guide.
In the next article, we will dwell in more detail on the working body (saw blade) and electric.
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It is difficult to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is the longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.
Introduction
The machine consists of three main structural elements:
- base;
- sawing table;
- parallel stop.
The base and the sawing table itself are not very complicated structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel emphasis.
So, the parallel stop is the movable part of the machine, which is the guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop, because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw curve may jam.
In addition, the rip fence of a circular saw must be of a fairly rigid construction, as the artisan exerts force by pressing the workpiece against the fence, and if the fence is allowed to move, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.
Exists various designs parallel stops, depending on the methods of its attachment to circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.
| Rip fence design | Advantages and disadvantages |
| Two-point attachment (front and back) | Advantages:· Pretty rigid construction · Allows you to place the stop in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· For fastening, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine around and fix the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and is a significant drawback with frequent readjustment. |
| Single point attachment (front) | Advantages:· Less rigid design than when fixing the fence in two points · Allows you to place the fence in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive in order to provide the necessary rigidity of the structure. |
| Fastening in the groove of the circular table | Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw: Sophisticated design, Weakened design of the circular table, Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, Quite a complicated design for self-manufacturing, especially from wood (made only from metal). |
In this article, we will analyze the option of creating a design of a parallel stop for a circular with one attachment point.
Preparation for work
Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed in the process.
The following tools will be used for work:
- Circular saw or can be used.
- Screwdriver.
- Bulgarian (Angle grinder).
- Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.
In the process, you will also need the following materials:
- Plywood.
- Massive pine.
- Steel tube with an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Two washers with an increased area and an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Joiner's glue.
The design of the stop of the circular machine
The whole structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning - relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected with the other and is complex design, which includes a set of parts.
The clamping force is large enough to ensure structural strength and securely fix the entire rip fence.
From a different angle.
The general composition of all parts is as follows:
- The base of the transverse part;
- Longitudinal part
- , 2 pcs.);
- The base of the longitudinal part;
- clamp
- Cam handle
Making a circular
Preparation of blanks
A couple of things to note:
- planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.
At 22 mm, we drill a hole in the end for the handle.
It is better to do this with drilling, but you can just fill it with a nail.
In the circular saw used for work, a home-made movable carriage is used from (or alternatively, you can make it “on hastily"false table), which is not very a pity to deform or spoil. We drive a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the hat.
As a result, we get an even cylindrical workpiece, which must be processed with a belt or eccentric grinder.
We make the handle - this is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.
Cross section of the guide
We proceed to the manufacture of the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:
- The base of the transverse part;
- Upper transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
- Lower transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
- End (fixing) bar of the transverse part.
Upper cross clamp
Both clamping bars - upper and lower have one end not straight 90º, but inclined ("oblique") with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when sawing blanks.
The upper transverse clamping bar is used to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing it against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.
Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the move and remove all defects that prevent smooth sliding, in addition, it is necessary to check the tightness of the inclined edges; gaps and cracks should not be.
With a snug fit, the strength of the connection (fixing the guide) will be maximum.
Assembly of the transverse whole part
Longitudinal part of the guide
The entire longitudinal part consists of:
- , 2 pcs.);
- The base of the longitudinal part.
This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), as well as denser and stronger - more durable.
At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, it remains only to ennoble the edges. This is done with edging tape.
The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) And understandable.
The base of the longitudinal part
And also additionally fix with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to observe the 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.
Assembly of the transverse and longitudinal parts.
Right here VERY!!! it is important to observe the angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.
Installation of the eccentric
Guide rail installation
It's time to fix our whole structure on circular machine. To do this, you need to attach the bar of the transverse stop to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out with glue and self-tapping screws.
... and we consider the work finished - the do-it-yourself circular saw is ready.
Video
The video on which this material was made.
