How I developed a new grape hybrid. Creating a new grape variety in the garden How to get new grape varieties

Cultivation of vineyards has become quite a popular activity among owners of private houses with garden plots. Another question is that not everyone succeeds, since the cultivation of such a crop is labor-intensive. To enjoy the fruits of the plant, you need to put a lot of effort and pay great attention to the entire work process. Vineyard for beginners is not easy. However, subject to following and observing certain rules it is possible to achieve a fruit-bearing grape culture, annually bringing rich harvests.

In fact, a grape bush is a vine with long stems, the ends of which subsequently turn into fruit-bearing vines. Only annual vines have the ability to bear fruit.

The grape bush is based on two systems:

1. Underground

This structure is made up of an underground stem, which is a cutting, from which a bush is subsequently formed. Its part, located below and on the sides, is given over to the development of rhizomes. The eyes, located on top, transform the shoots, which subsequently form a bushy base.

2. Overground

The above ground system consists of:

Shtamb. A stem growing in a strictly vertical direction.
Sleeves. Vines extending from a bushy head, which can be 35 cm or more in length.
Horns. Sleeves less than 35 cm long.
stepchildren. Shoots growing from an axillary leaf bud component located in the main bushy shoot.
Sheet. It is made up of a long handle and a carved plate. The shape, size and other characteristics of the leaf are determined by the grape variety. They have an important function - the implementation of nutritional components of organic origin.

The structure of the vineyard. 1 - replacement knots; 2 - shoots; 3 - thickening of the stem (head); 4 - perennial branches (sleeves); 5 and 7 - roots; 6 - underground stem (stem); 8 - fruit shoot; 9 - fruitless escape

Where to begin?

Breeding a vineyard for beginners begins with the selection of seedlings. Preference should be given to perennial and tested varieties. Their difference lies in the low cost, which is a significant advantage in case of non-survival of the seedling.

Grapes are classified according to:

color;
the presence of bones;
the degree of size of the berries;
appointment;
maturation periods.

Grapes are also divided according to the type of flowering and are: male, female and self-pollinated. Cross-pollination is optional for the male type, since full-fledged fruits are produced. Female - in order to avoid a lack of harvest, it is planted close to the male. Accordingly, pollinated grapes are not the best way for beginner growers.

When buying seedlings, you must consider:

power degree of growth of shoots;
loadable abilities of bushy ovary;
brush ejection method.

Experts with many years of experience in growing vineyards recommend novice growers to purchase the following grape varieties:

« East". It is resistant to frost, withstanding temperatures down to -18 degrees. The fruits are purple in color, and the harvest is characterized by stability.
« Laura«. sweet variety grapes with white and large fruits, not whimsical in care.
« Gift of Zaporozhye". It also has large weighty fruits of amber color.
« Original". Fruits of the extended form of all shades of pink.
« Kodryanka". An early grape variety with dark blue fruits that ripen by the end of July. At proper care and the formation of the first harvest ripens in the third year.

Stages of creating a vineyard

In order for the process of creating and forming a grape culture to be easy and unconstrained, it is important to carry out all the work in stages:

1. Planting grapes

Before planting seedlings, you should know that grapes do not like heavy soils and abundant watering. The ideal place for it is rocky slopes in direct sunlight. For this reason main task beginner winegrowers is to create conditions as close to natural as possible. Landing is best done in the spring:

seedlings are planted in pits dug in advance, having certain dimensional parameters in the transverse direction and a depth of 70-80 cm;
10-15 cm layer is poured to the bottom drainage material in the form of expanded clay or crushed stone, as well as a couple of buckets of humus mixed with earth;
the seedling additionally wakes up with a layer of earth. In order to increase friability, it is possible to add coarse sand or perlite;
the soil around the plant is pressed a little, watered and mulched.

Here is what experts say about some features of planting grapes: If you want to hang various buildings with grapes, the intention is planted at a distance of half a meter from the foundation of the house. If the creation of a vineyard is planned, then an interval of 2.5-3 meters should be observed between the rows, and 2 meters between the bushes.

2. Watering and feeding

It is good if a rare but plentiful watering of the grapes is made. The zone of rhizomes should be characterized by sufficient moisture for the dissolution of nutrients in it and the penetration of air masses. Frequent surface watering can only provoke the appearance of weeds and the development of disease states. Here are a few simple rules for watering grapes:

In dry times, watering is done four times a month.
Near the seedling, it is possible to install pipe or bottle containers made of plastic, inserted into each other. Thus, water and nutrition entering above the soil level will fertilize directly the root parts of the plant.
Typically 40 liters of water is used with a suggested mulching process. Mulch is a powder made from humus and overdried grass. It prevents the rapid disappearance of importance by balancing the fluctuations temperature conditions day and night.
Starting from the month of August, the frequency of watering is on the decline.

The grapes are fertilized twice. A sapling planted in spring does not need nutrition, while a sprout planted in autumn requires nitrogen fertilizers. For this you need:

pour ammonium nitrate and urea in the amount of a tablespoon into 10 liters of water, then pour the solution over the bush;
additionally water with a couple of buckets of infused water, which will contribute to better absorption of nutrients.

The next feeding is prepared by mixing water and a third of a bucket of mullein. The resulting solution is fermented for a week with regular stirring. One bush needs a liter of such mash, a tablespoon of nitrogen fertilizers and a bucket of water.

3. Trimming and garter

Beginning winegrowers should properly form and trim grape bushes on time and correctly. Usually sleeve circuits are used for this. Sleeves can grow in vertical or horizontal directions. The most popular and simple scheme for the formation of grapes for beginners is the "short horns", the essence of which is as follows:

two ovaries are left on the horns;
the weakest of the ovaries is removed.

This scheme allows you to achieve a rich harvest with exceptionally large and sweet fruits. It can be used on dessert grapes.

The formation should begin with pruning the matured main shoot, which is shortened above the strongest bud at the level of the lower trellis wire. Her role will be performed by a 30 cm stem. The remaining parts are being removed.

At the beginning of the coming season, the main shoot will be the shoot growing from the maximum of a kidney:

shoots growing on the sides are pinched on it, above the fifth node in a row, and shoots belonging to the second order are located above the first node;
before the beginning of the vegetative process, the vine in its upper part can be deflected horizontally in order to stimulate new branches, after which it returns to its original position;
in the spring, each horn should have 2 branches located on the sides: fruit and spare;
on the fruitful - a pair of ovaries is left;
stepchildren growing from the leaf axils are plucked out after the first leaves appear, which will provide a full burst of light from the sun;
after the beginning of the pouring of the leaves, the formation is complemented by a bushy clarification, the essence of which is to open the grape clusters by getting rid of the leaves.

Over time, the bush overgrows with horns, which are subsequently shortened and cut.

4. Winter shelter

The end of the second autumn month is characterized by falling leaves from the grapes. Those sheets that did not have time to fall are torn off or cut off. The branches are pressed to the ground and fixed with brackets, after which they are covered. Longer branches are bound.

Shelter can be:

land;
bags filled with vegetable waste;
covering materials pressed down with special shields made of wood.

During the first couple of years, frost-resistant grape varieties should also be covered. You should be aware that shelter for grapes may be needed in the spring, when the likelihood of a sudden drop in temperature conditions remains. Such manifestations are especially dangerous in regions with a hot climate, when the soil has warmed up and the shelters have been removed. In such cases, some protective methods help well:

delaying the vegetation process through treatment with iron sulphate;
creating a curtain of smoke.

5. Disease protection

Grapes are highly susceptible to various diseases, the occurrence of which is provoked by plant pathogens.

In order to protect the vineyard from diseases, you can resort to the following measures:

choose varieties that are resistant to various kinds of pests;
pay increased attention to the formation and ventilation of the bush;
timely break out extra runs shoots;
monitor the appearance of weeds and get rid of them in time;
spray and fertilize grapes with special fungicidal solutions.

Scientists have found that adults healthy person it is necessary to eat 70 kg of grapes of various varieties per year. In reality, 30 kg is not even an average result, but the best. All this is because in many regions grapes continue to be a delicacy. Many summer residents are seriously considering growing vines on their plots. This is possible because modern varieties and hybrid forms are bred not only for every taste, but for various growing conditions. In the article we will talk about new grape varieties (description and comparison), give their detailed characteristics.

Description of the earliest grape varieties, advantages and disadvantages

Thanks to the painstaking work of modern breeders, hybrid forms have appeared, the ripening period of which has surpassed all stereotypes, and is 100 days.

Ruslan is one of the early varieties.

The most popular among gardeners are:

№	Name	Description	Advantage	Flaws
1.	"Ruslan"	The hybrid form of the varieties "Kuban" and "Gift to Zaporozhye" of the famous Ukrainian breeder V.V. Zagorulko. Tall shrubs with multi-sex flowers. Fruits with an average weight - 20 g. Ripening period - 100 - 115 days. Clusters weighing - 800 - 900 g. Pulp of fruit flavor with plum aftertaste. Harvest - the second decade of August.	Frost resistance up to minus 23 0 . High resistance to fungal diseases.	Does not tolerate excess moisture.
2.	"Lelik"	Hybrid form of folk breeder E. G. Pavlovsky, created on the basis of the variety "Baklanovsky" and "Hybrida 41". Vigorous climber with bisexual flowers. Berries Pink colour, weighing 8 g. The mass of one bunch reaches 1 kg.	Withstands frosts down to minus 24 0 . Moderately resistant to oidium mildew and gray mold.	Heterogeneous ripening of berries in bunches.
3.	Muscat Novoshah-	The author of the hybrid, E. G. Pavlovsky, brought him out of the "Talisman" and "XVII-10-26". The weight of a bunch, on average, is 500 g. The taste is very sweet. Ripens by mid-August.	Ripe berries can be stored on the bushes for a long time without compromising taste. Moderately resistant to major diseases.	The vine is prone to overload, requires normalization
4.	"Melting"	A hybrid of the Ukrainian breeder A. A. Golub, appeared as a result of crossing "Atlanta" with "Arcadia" and a mixture of pollen. Bisexual form with early maturation. Fruit color is white.	It has an increased resistance to diseases and successfully tolerates frosts down to minus -23 0 .

In addition to the others described earlier, ripen:

"Outrigger",
"Beloved Muscat"
"Vitannya",
"Alexa Early"
"Mary Magdalene"
"Libya",
"Sphinx",
"Primitive"
"Pulsar",
"Charlie",
"Azalea",
"Vovchik",
Vera, etc.

The listed varieties and hybrids are relatively unpretentious in care, therefore, more often than others, they are planted in summer cottages.

"Lelik" - a variety of E. G. Pavlovsky - one of the gardeners' favorites.

Features of mid-early varieties and hybrid forms

In terms of ripeness, they require more time than the early ones, but not by much. On average, the hybrids of this group are harvested at the end of August. Gardeners prefer these grape varieties:

"Leah"- an early variety, ripening in 110 - 115 days. Created by V. V. Zagorulko by crossing the varieties "Arcadia" and "Atlant Zaporozhye".

Table form, that is, what is intended for fresh use.
Bushes give up to 3 m of growth annually.
The color of ripe fruits is white-pink.
Clusters of 900 g each, the weight of 2 kg has been repeatedly noticed.
The sweetness of berries depends on the number of sunny days, the warmer, the more sugar.
Withstands frost without shelter - minus 21 0 .
The defeat of the main diseases 3.5 - 4 points.

Disadvantage: the variety reacts negatively to excessive watering and prolonged rains.

"Liya" is a relatively frost-resistant variety of early ripening.

"Prometheus"- another hybrid of V.V. Zagorulko, bred by crossing the varieties "Kishmish radiant" and "Arcadia".

Distinguished by functionally female flowers.
The bunch is similar in structure to the Arcadia variety.
Fruit color is dark pink.
Resistance to winter cold up to minus 21 0 .

"Kseniya"- the variety was bred by V.N. Krainov, has a second name "Angelica".

Vigorous bushes of medium early maturity 115 - 125 days.
Large clusters, weighing up to 1.5 kg, with oblong berries of white - pink color.
The pulp is sweet and crunchy with several flavors.

The advantage is high disease resistance. Handles transportation well.

Tip #1Note! Variety "Xenia" requires annual pruning for 8 - 10 eyes.

"Carmen"- E. G. Pavlovsky connected the Nadezhda AZOS variety and the hybrid form FVC-94-3.

Ripening period - 3.5 months in mid-August.
Vigorous bushes - 2 m or more.
Flowers bisexual.
The weight of a bunch of grapes is 600 - 800 g.
The color of the fruit is red-violet, the shape is elongated.
The disadvantage is that the variety is prone to overload and needs thinning of the ovary.

Gardeners favorably relate to the cultivation of relatively unpretentious early and mid-early varieties such as:

"Vlada",
"Pleased",
"Sofia",
"Fupshetny",
"Elf",
Abu Hasan.
"Blessing"
"Victor",
"Long-awaited"
"Zlatogor", etc.

Grape varieties of medium and medium late ripening

Among the popular ones are:

Medium maturity	Middle late
"Anapsky giant"	"Ataman"
"White Giant"	"Juliet"
"Anthony the Great"	"Zagrava"
"Black Grand"	"Lactic"
"Anyuta"	"Roadside"
"Cowberry"	"September"
"Ataman Pavlyuk"	"Moldova"
"Valentina"	"Original"
"Lady Patricia"	"Kara Palvan"
"Golden Rain"	"Alphonse Lavalle"
"Verona"
"Odessa souvenir"
"Meteorite"
"PG - 12"

The following varieties and hybrids deserve more detailed attention:

"Anapsky giant"- a variety of universal, vigorous. It belongs to medium-ripening, the berries are gaining ripeness by mid-September. Clusters are small, 200 g each, the color of the fruit is white.
Ataman Pavlyuk"- the result of the selection work of V. U. Kapelyushny, by crossing the varieties "Talismpn" and "Autumn Black". The result is a fast growing bush with large clusters up to 1300 g, often up to 2 kg. The advantage is complete absence peas. The variety is popular because of the good preservation both on the vine and in the plucked form.

A feature of the Ataman Pavlyuk variety is a wax coating that protects the fruits from diseases, pests and abnormally low temperatures for grapes. The colder the weather, the thicker the plaque.

"Alphonse Lavalle"- a table French variety that has successfully taken root with us. Refers to the middle. It has bisexual flowers. Clusters are heterogeneous - from loose to dense. Berries right round shape dark purple. The ripening period is up to 160 days, subject to a positive temperature of +22 0 - +32 0. Disadvantage: not resistant to most fungal diseases, does not withstand frost and spring return frosts.

Growing conditions for late grapes

To get a harvest late varieties it will take 155 - 160 days. They are meant for long term storage. Read also the article: → "". Most often they are used in warm climate zones or in greenhouses.

Name of the hybrid

Peculiarities

Flaws

"Courage"

Vigorous shrub with bisexual flowers. The mass of one bunch is 1 - 2 kg.

Fruit color is white.

Ripening time is the end of September.

They are highly resistant to fungal diseases.

Weak frost resistance

"Skorensky red"

The result of crossing Datier de Saint Valier, Nimrang x Pocket.

Table variety.

Bushes are large, clusters - 0.5 - 0.7 kg.

The color of the berries is purple-red.

The advantage is high resistance to fungal diseases.

Not stored.

For growing late varieties such as Courage, many of which are European, it is better to use an inclined landing.

Tip # 2. The successful development of a young vine and the quality of a mature crop depends on properly conducted irrigation. Mandatory watering is carried out the first 2 years. For adult plants, irrigation is necessary before flowering and water-charging watering for the winter.

The best varieties for the Crimea, the Volga region, the Moscow region, the Leningrad region, Siberia

Gone are the days when grapes were considered exclusively southern culture. Thanks to professional and amateur selection, modern varieties are able to satisfy gardeners living in various climatic zones. As before, Crimea is the leader in the cultivation of grapes. Thanks to the climate here, the earliest varieties ripen at the end of July.

"Pearl Saba"- medium-sized fruits, when ripe, amber-golden, rounded, with pulp of a delicate and pleasant taste, with a nutmeg aroma of nutmeg, clusters of small size, shape - friable.

"Pearl Saba" is one of the sweetest varieties.

"Queen of the Vineyards"- a variety with large berries, round or slightly elongated, golden amber in color, with large clusters.
"Tyfi pink"- with large long clusters up to 25 cm long. The color of the berries is dark pink, the shape is regular round. Ripens in 167 days.

These varieties are the most famous and popular. But thanks to selection, grapes are grown in many climatic zones, even in those whose conditions are opposite to Crimean. Such varieties and hybrids are typical for different regions.

Moscow region	Leningradskayaregion	Volga region	Ural	Siberia
F - 14-75 (shape)	F1475	Liepajas Dzintars	Zilga	Tukay
Laura	Mars	Dovga	Aleshenkin	Solovyova-58
Shun	Russian Karinka	Tsiravas Agro	Sharov's riddle	Rusven
Nadezhda Aksaiskaya	In memory of Dombkowska	Silva	In memory of Dombkowska	Muromets
Victoria	Reline Pink Seedless,	Superearly Cicatricial	In memory of Shatilov	Super early red muscat
Nakhodka AZOS	Neptune	Zolotinka	Muscat white extra early	Kodryanka
Super Extra	Super extra	Super extra	Muscat pink early
First-Called	Victor	Elegant super early	Beauty of the North
	Laura	Victoria
Phenomenon (Augustin, Pleven steady)	Timur	Timur
Muscat summer	Augustine	Kolobok
Cherry	Extra	Prima
Aleshenkin	Ainset Seedless	Hip-hop
Charlie		Sphinx

Rubric: "Questions and answers"

Question number 1. What are the largest grape varieties?

Harold.
Laura.
Augustine.
New century.
Paul.
Memory of a surgeon.
Karmakod.
In memory of Negrul.
Stashensky.
Kodryanka.

Question number 2. Which varieties are best suited to transport?

Shami Abiad.
Gorgeous. Read also the article: → "".
chieftain,
Kodryanka.
Kishmish Kalina.
Arched.
Baikonur.

Question number 3. Which grape keeps the longest?

Ruslan.
Moldova - up to 160 days;
Memory of Negrul - up to 130 days;
Autumn black - up to 120 days;
Criuleni - up to 100 days;
Original - up to 130 days;
Light - up to 100 days;
Hope AZOS - up to 90 days;
Tahir - up to 90 days.

Question number 4. What grape varieties are the most frost-resistant?

Carmen - 30 0,
September - 21 0,
Moldova - 23 0 ,
Anthony the Great - 23 0,
Black grand - 23 0,
Cowberry - 24 0,
Valentine - 24 0,
Meteorite - 24 0,
Romeo - 23 0.

Serious mistakes gardeners make when choosing new grape varieties

Mistake #1. Choosing a grape variety that is not suitable for growing in a given climate zone.

Often acquiring new variety, gardeners are being held hostage by unscrupulous sellers who distribute plants that do not grow locally. At best, this will affect the quality and quantity of the crop, but most likely the grapes will not take root.

Mistake #2. Planting new varieties in a common vineyard.

A newly acquired plant is best planted separately or kept in quarantine. It is not known how the local "environment" will affect the new variety, it is better to protect it (if possible) from infection with diseases.

Mistake #3. The choice of heat-loving varieties for a zone with a harsh climate.

In this case, the main criterion is frost resistance, otherwise grapes can only be grown in a greenhouse.

The cultivation of grapes has more than one thousand years. His taste and beneficial features appreciated by the inhabitants of ancient Egypt. Over the centuries, a lot of information has been accumulated about the gene pool of varieties, their biomorphological and economic and technical properties. Ampelography is engaged in the collection and processing of this information.

The data obtained is needed for reproduction and selection. Every year there are new species with improved properties. Thanks to this, the crop is now grown not only in warm regions, but also in areas with a variable climate. For example, in Siberia.

Distinctive features of new varieties

New varieties of grapes and hybrids differ from the mother ones in many positive qualities:

ultra-high resistance to frost - time and physical costs are reduced during cultivation;

high yield - a combination of abundant fruiting and good taste characteristics;

immunity to fungal and viral diseases - the absence of additional treatments with chemicals makes the berries environmentally friendly;

early ripeness - increases the harvesting period, a clear plus for both the consumer and workers in industrial cultivation;

bisexual flowers - make cultivation simple.

When breeding new varieties, special attention is paid to the climatic zone where grapes will be cultivated.

How do you get new species?

New varieties are obtained in several ways:

Vegetative hybridization is a method of obtaining plants known since ancient times. This is sexual reproduction by grafting a kidney. Affects the timing of maturation and a number of morphological features.

Artificial hybridization - sexual and asexual crossing. It is based on the combination of genes from different cells in one.

Sowing seeds of natural pollination is a method known from the 3rd century BC. BC e.

All methods of obtaining new species are aimed at creating varieties with the best commodity and taste characteristics.

Photos

Brief description of new varieties

The varieties described below are new. They are characterized by high yield, transportability and long shelf life.

Seedless hybrid VI-4- table variety. The bushes are strong and grow well. The growing season does not exceed 140 days. White long berries form large conical clusters. The variety tolerates long hauls well. Moderately resistant to fungus, decay and sub-zero temperatures.

Veles Kishmish- a hybrid with a nutmeg flavor. Berries are juicy and sweet. The mass of the bunch is up to 1500 g. The color is light pink. Some fruits contain seeds. Grapes can withstand light frosts well. Has good immunity.

Lowland 2- table grapes, ripening in bunches up to two kilograms. The berries are large, light purple. With a pleasant taste and smell. Sugar content up to 19%. Feature of a grade - early coloring of fruits and berry taste with easy sourness. The crop is characterized by an excellent presentation, the ability to endure long transportation. The bush endures frost and is not afraid of many diseases.

Premier Kishmish- a variety bred by amateur breeders. Differs in the large size of yellowish-pink berries. Bunch weight 750 g. Harvest ripens 120 days after bud opening. Hangs on a bush for a long time without spoiling. Disease resistance is average.

Sprinter- grapes obtained by amateur selection. Ripens extremely early. But 105-110 days after bud break. The berries are red, large, round. The weight of the bunch is 500-600 g. The pulp is dense and juicy. The variety is resistant to frost and mildew.

Every day, breeders are working to create an “ideal” variety that could, at minimal cost when grown, give abundant and delicious harvest universal purpose.

Video "New and hybrid grape varieties"

Some growers sleep and see how to breed a new variety, and what to cross to get a hybrid form that strikes the imagination in size, color and taste ... I want to disappoint those who want to try on Michurin's laurels. Selection is a long process.

If time doesn't scare you, be patient! You will need the following gentlemen's kit:

at least five years to breed one variety;
decent piece of land;
the ability to endure failure;
receive positive emotions from the lesson.

It is useful to familiarize yourself with the professional literature. This may be a textbook on viticulture by the authorship of Negrul, and "Genetics and selection of the vine" by Ayvazyan P.K. and Dokuchaeva E.N.

You also need to turn your vineyard into an impregnable fortress, otherwise the fruits of your combinations may go to banal thieves who will sell bunches on the market, and you will lose all the results of your work. Such cases are not just unsettling, they leave a bitter aftertaste for a long time.

And still it is necessary to put only feasible tasks. Breeding frost-resistant grapes with good performance whole scientific institutes are engaged, and the results are still modest.

An amateur breeder cannot handle such tasks. The probability of getting a variety with frost resistance -30...-32°C from offspring with frost resistance -23 ... -25 ° С is the same as hitting the jackpot in the lottery. The same can be said about high resistance to diseases.

Despite these limitations, the field of activity of enthusiasts is very extensive. You can improve the color of the bunches, the shape of the berries, the size, the taste, the structure, the ripening time, the vigor of the growth, the yield, the sex of the flower, the seedlessness… So that's enough work.

Never cross pairs at random. Use the “duet” rule: if you plan to breed a large-berry variety with a given color of bunches, then choose both parental forms with a given color. Use this rule when setting a selection problem. The probability of getting a bisexual variety is different: when crossing bisexual varieties, the probability is 3 to 1. That is, three seedlings will be bisexual, and one will be unisexual. Previously, all same-sex forms were rejected. But if we do this now, then we would be left without Talisman, Flora, Flamingo, Victoria, Sofia, Gourmets ... So do not rush to reject hybrid forms, maybe they will have other advantages. In industrial selection, out of a hundred seedlings, only one or two with the desired properties were selected, the rest were rejected. In amateur breeding, 20-30 seedlings are considered sufficient.

And the last. It has been noted that the earlier the maturation period of the mother form, the worse the germination of hybrid seeds. The lowest germination in super-early varieties is only 1-1.5%. And in maternal forms with early term maturation - 10-25%. The best germination is in seeds from late mother bushes.

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When growing grapes near the walls and on the arbors, the bushes have to be left uncovered for the winter, since it is not possible to bend them to the ground. It follows from this that frost-resistant varieties are needed for the wall culture of grapes. But the existing frost-resistant varieties, as already mentioned, are significantly inferior to European varieties in terms of fruit taste. Hence the task is to work on breeding new varieties - high-quality and at the same time frost-resistant. Such varieties can be successfully bred by amateur growers.

The main method of breeding such varieties is hybridization followed by hybridization and selection.

In order to obtain high-quality frost-resistant hybrids, it is necessary to cross various European and Central Asian grape varieties with good taste of berries with varieties of frost-resistant species.

Of the European varieties, for example, the following can be recommended for hybridization: intensively accumulating sugar White Muscat, Pink Muscat and Black Kishmish, early varieties Zhemchug Saba, Madeleine Anzhevin and Chaush, in which wood ripens well; from Central Asian - large-fruited Taifi, Nimrang, Katta kurgan, etc. Of the frost-resistant forms, the most suitable for hybridization are varieties of the species Vitis Labruska - Isabella, Lydia and others, as well as Amur grapes; in areas infected with phylloxera, varieties and hybrids of Riparia and Rupestris species can also be recommended.

The success of the business depends primarily on the ability to choose parent pairs on the basis of personal observations of the behavior of certain varieties in the area where breeding work is being carried out. It is important not only to skillfully select varieties for crossing, but also to select the most suitable bushes of parental varieties for this purpose. For example, if it is noticed that a bush is better than other bushes of this variety, endures winter or has better maturation of wood and is less damaged by frost, then such a bush should be taken for crossing.

It is desirable to cross in the area for which new varieties are being developed, so that hybrid seeds are formed on bushes growing in the conditions of this area. Hybrid seeds should be imported from other places only if there are no bushes necessary for crossing varieties in the place. In this case, you can contact any research institution for viticulture with a request to send hybrid seeds for breeding high-quality frost-resistant grape varieties.

The crossing technique is as follows. On the bushes selected for hybridization, large inflorescences are selected, located on strong, well-growing shoots. The upper part of the bunch is cut to half along the ridge. The rest of the flowers are castrated. With thin tweezers, in one or two steps, remove the cap along with anthers from each bud (Fig. 35). On each inflorescence, 50-100 buds are castrated, the rest are cut with scissors with sharp tips. It is necessary to castrate on the day when the first blooming flowers appear on the bush.

After castration, an insulator is put on the inflorescence to protect it from pollen from neighboring flowering bushes. The insulator is prepared from parchment paper, which is cut into pieces 20 centimeters wide and 25 centimeters long. Then the cut leaves are glued into a tube. To do this, take a half-liter bottle, wrap it with a leaf and glue its edges. The end of the resulting parchment tube from the side of the neck of the bottle) is dipped into water for 3-4 centimeters, then it is tied with a nylon thread along the edge of the wetted area by one knot, the wetted border is folded back from the bottle and the other end is also tied with a thread, after putting a small thread into this edge. cotton ball. The insulator prepared in this way (Fig. 36) is put on the inflorescence, the pedicel is wrapped with a piece of cotton wool and the thread is tightened. In the morning of the next day, the upper end of the insulator is untied and the stigmas of castrated flowers are examined. If droplets of liquid appear on them, pollination must be carried out; if no droplets appear, the insulators are tied and the inspection is continued every morning until droplets appear on the stigmas of the flowers. This moment cannot be missed, since pollination before the appearance of droplets or after they dry does not give results - crossing does not work.
If the paternal bush blooms earlier than the mother bush, pollen is collected in advance for pollination. To do this, anthers (along with pollen) are shaken from flowering inflorescences into a paper bag, dried in the shade and kept in a dry place until pollination is needed. During pollination, anthers with pollen are collected with a brush and shaken over the stigmas, on which droplets have appeared.

Crossing is best done if the paternal and maternal bushes bloom at the same time. Then, several branches are cut from the well-blooming inflorescences of the paternal bush, brought to the mother bush and inserted one by one into the untied insulators, touching the anthers to the stigmas, then removed. This method of pollination gives the best results.

After two or three weeks, the paper insulators are removed and gauze bags are put on the inflorescences with young ovaries of berries. When the seeds are fully ripened, the clusters are cut off and hybrid seeds are extracted from the berries.