Quite often, tiles are used for cladding walls and floors in various rooms. It is not only practical, but also beautiful option finishes. However, careless or unprofessional rubbing of seams can ruin everything. The joints are filled with a special composition, and this process has many nuances.
How to grout seams on tiles beautiful view of the decorated room has been preserved for a long time? Knowing the subtleties of such work will help to understand this.
How to choose a grout mixture?
Before you grout the seams on the tile, you need to purchase grout. It is selected depending on the following factors:
- chemical composition;
- operating conditions of the facing coating;
- compatibility with the composition of the adhesive solution;
- the width of the space between adjacent tiles.
When choosing a color, many experts advise purchasing grout mixtures of darker tones than the tile coating itself. This will strictly emphasize the geometry of the tile and practically hide the dirt that will appear during operation.
Types of grout mixtures
Before starting the cladding process, you should find out how you can rub the tile seams in each case. To do this, it is important to understand what are the compositions for mashing.
By chemical components, they are classified into the following varieties:
- grouts on a cement-sand basis;
- polymer cement compositions;
- epoxy-cement mixtures;
- epoxy grouts;
- polymer blends based on silicone.
Cement-sand compositions are made from white cement with the addition of fine-grained clean sand. They apply for decorative design seams in rooms that are characterized by moderate humidity and gentle conditions. The base must be concrete or brick, not subject to deformation. If you cannot find the right shade, then you can get white and add dye during cooking.
Polymer-cement mixtures are similar in composition to cement-sand grouts, but they also contain polymer additives that make them more durable and moisture resistant. The seams lined with them are not subject to the formation of various defects, for example, cracks. Cement-sand and polymer-cement trowels are preferred by specialists for residential buildings and office premises.
Epoxy-cement and epoxy compounds are used both in interior and exterior tiling work. Due to their composition, they are able to withstand even the most aggressive operating conditions: bases subject to deformation, increased humidity and adverse environmental influences. According to its composition, the grout on epoxy based viscous tends to harden quickly, therefore, it requires active and skillful work. It is not suitable for grouting narrow tiled spaces in residential premises, the width of which varies between 3-6 mm, but it will be an excellent solution for facing work on wide seams of various non-standard objects, such as swimming pools. This type of paste is used more often in industrial facilities.
Polymer mixtures are resistant to temperature fluctuations, therefore they are successfully used when facing floor tiles with a “warm floor” system. They are injected into the seam using a special syringe.
Tools
Before grouting the seams on the tiles, it is imperative to prepare a building kit. It consists of the following components:
- special trowel or rubber spatula;
- a small tray for mixing grout;
- water container;
- soft cloth;
- foam sponge;
- some professionals wear goggles, rubber gloves and a respirator when working.
Training
Before grouting the seams between the tiles, specialists carry out preliminary measures to clean the spaces between the tiles. They remove any remaining dividing crosses, despite the opinion of many manufacturers that they can be left and grouted on top. Professionals say that in areas where the separator remains, the tone of the grout after hardening will be lighter - this will ruin the final result.
After this procedure, everything is washed with ordinary water using a foam sponge. Before rubbing the seams on the tiles on the floor, the room to be treated should be well vacuumed.
For unglazed materials, a light pre-moistening of the top and side surfaces is required. This event will help get rid of excessive suction of moisture when applying grout. With strong moisture, the grout often spreads, so it is important not to overdo it. Grout can be applied to glazed tiles without first wetting the side and top of it.
Mixing grout paste
Before you grout the seams on the tile, you need to properly prepare the grout. The quality of the work performed will depend on it. Such a mass is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions. Too much liquid mixture for grouting can lead to cracking of the seam after drying, too thick will not fill the space of the entire seam. The mass should be homogeneous and in its consistency resemble sour cream. It is convenient to use a construction mixer for mixing.
Ready pasta should be used quickly, so knead it in small portions (about 300-500 grams at a time).
Applying the grout
Before rubbing the seams on the tiles on the floor or wall, read the following recommendations from experts:
- rubbing is carried out not along the perimeter of the tile, but first in the horizontal direction, then in the vertical direction, or vice versa;
- not to cover the entire area at once, but to allocate areas of approximately 1 sq. meter;
- the more paste enters the seam, the better and stronger it will be during operation;
- the area to be grouted must be damp.
A small amount of prepared grouting paste is applied to the joint area and distributed over it with a grouting grater, which must be held at an angle of 30-40 ° to the surface to be treated.
It is important to know how to grout tile seams correctly in order to get a high-quality and neat result. To do this, it is necessary to draw 3-4 times along the seam, rubbing and deepening the mixture as thoroughly as possible into all voids and corners. The area between the tiles must be filled tightly to minimize the formation of voids between the tiles. Excess grout paste is removed by holding the float diagonally to the seam. The tool is positioned at an angle of 90° to the treated area. Some experts recommend having another spatula for this.
finishing touches
After about 15 minutes, the grout paste will dry out a little. It's time to wipe the seams with a damp sponge in the same sequence in which they were rubbed.
Only when pressing on it with a uniform force, seams with the same depth are obtained. This must be done at this stage, then it will be difficult to correct the result. The sponge is washed with plain water. The treated area is left to dry (on average, this process lasts 12 hours).
Important nuances
You need to know how to grout the seams on the tiles in the corners. For this, a special small spatula is used, designed for hard-to-reach places. Corners and slotted spaces around the perimeter of shower cabins, bathtubs, washbasins, many experts prefer to fill with silicone, which will guarantee the tightness of filling the entire seam and eliminate the formation of cracks in the future. Before filling the inter-tile space silicone sealant You need to seal the edges of the tiles with masking tape to avoid contamination. The sealant is pressed in continuously, then smoothed out with a moistened rubber trowel. After removing excess silicone, you can remove the strips of adhesive tape from the tiles.
You should know how to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor, so as not to accidentally spoil the result. To do this, many craftsmen recommend covering the treated area with a sheet of plywood after grouting and leaving it until the grout paste has completely hardened. When the grout hardens, you need to start cleaning the tiles. It is well washed with a wet sponge, and then rubbed with a dry cloth.
Specialist rates
Everyone who is engaged in repairs on their own is interested in the question of how much it costs to rub the tile seams and lay it, that is, what will be the savings for the budget. The cost of a specialist’s services in this work depends on the status of the master himself, the rating of his company, the size of the tile covering and total area designed for styling and mashing. On average, professionals ask for about 600 rubles per 1 sq.m. for laying ordinary-sized tiles with subsequent grouting, and within 950 rubles / 1 sq.m. for the same work with mosaics. A separate service for wiping the area between the tiles will cost approximately 100 rubles / 1 sq.m.
Tile is undoubtedly the most popular material for wall and floor decoration in the bathroom. And there are many objective reasons for this: it is easy to wash, it is resistant to moisture and direct moisture, it is hygienic and environmentally friendly. To the choice of floor and wall ceramic tiles always approach very responsibly.
However, how your bathtub will eventually look after the repair and how long the tile will serve you depends not only on the quality of the tile itself and the skill of the builder who will lay it. The final result also largely depends on the quality of related products, such as tile grout. Anyone who has never dealt with laying tiles may not even know about its purpose. In this article we will tell you what grout for tiles is for, what grout mixtures are and how to use it.
The purpose of the grout
Tile grout is a dry mortar that can be either cement or epoxy based. Grout is used to fill the joints between tiles. This is done not only for aesthetic reasons, but also so that moisture does not get into the seams and mold and bacteria do not accumulate.
In addition, a properly selected grout can help hide defects resulting from uneven walls or improper tiling.
What you need to know before choosing a grout?
Before heading to the store for grout, it should be noted that grouts are divided into two main types, depending on the main component of the mixture: cement-based grout and resin-based grout (particularly epoxy).
The cement base is more popular with consumers. This is primarily due to its lower cost. In addition, working with cement grout is easier. It is enough to dilute the dry mixture with water or water-based latex to the desired consistency. However, in some cases, grouts are sold ready-to-use in plastic buckets.
Keep in mind that while ready mix is more convenient to use, it is less economical than dry mix. The fact is that the finished mixture dries very quickly and if you do not have time to use the entire bucket soon after opening, the remaining mixture will quickly harden and you will have to throw it away.
Epoxy grout is the most commonly used resin grout. There are other grouts, for example, based on furan resin. However, they are rarely used in interior decoration. For example, grouts based on furan resin are used mainly in industrial plants in difficult production conditions. Epoxy grouts are used everywhere.
How to choose the right grout composition?
The criteria for choosing cement and epoxy grout are somewhat different.
Cement grouts can be designed for work with narrow seams (up to 5 mm) or with wide seams (more than 5 mm). If you have to work with wide joints, you will need to purchase grout with sand. Moreover, the wider the seam between the tiles, the larger the grains of sand in the mixture should be. Special cements are also added to some cement mixtures. chemical substances, designed to fight the formation of mold and fungi - fungicides.
Most experienced tilers still advise giving preference to epoxy grouts in the bathroom, since they, unlike cement grouts, are not destroyed by chemicals and are more resistant to different kind pollution. However, cement grouts are also suitable for floor tiles.
If you still decide to use cement grout, we advise you to purchase a water repellent in this way - a special composition that gives the treated surface water-repellent properties.
As we have already noted, among resin-based grouts, the most the best option are grouts based on epoxy resin. It consists of epoxy resin, hardener and coloring component. There is also the so-called two-component grout, which consists of cement, which is diluted with a latex plasticizer. This grout is much stronger than others, and is used, as a rule, on the facades of buildings.
Color mixtures
The color of the grout is selected based on the color of the tile.
Cement grout can be either natural gray or any other color, from white to black, depending on the color pigment used. If you could not find the required shade of the finished mixture, you can create it yourself by purchasing a white grout and a color scheme for it.
The choice of epoxy grout is much wider, however, it is impossible to paint epoxy-based grout on your own. Thanks to the addition of shiny components, manufacturers were able to achieve the effect of gold, silver, bronze, metallic. The range is really impressive.
When choosing a grout color, you must be guided by two simple rules:
- Dark and contrasting grout should only be used if you are sure that the tile lies perfectly. The fact is that such a contrast of colors emphasizes the pattern of tile laying.
- If during the laying of the tiles there were some errors, it is better to use a light grout. In this case, more dark color tiles will visually hide existing irregularities.
Colorless or transparent
In case you use a combination of several colors in the bathroom decor or decide to buy mosaic tiles, transparent grout is ideal for you. It is made on the basis of glass and is ideal for grouting art and glass mosaics. Transparent grout is called very conditionally - it does not transmit light and takes on the color of the rubbed tile. However, it is not transparent by itself. This grout is used only on narrow seams up to 2 mm wide.
Leading grout manufacturers
Proper service life of tiles also depends largely on the manufacturing company. It is better to trust trusted manufacturers. Among the most popular manufacturers of grouts in the Russian market, it should be noted:
- Ceresit (cement-based mixtures, one-component silicone grouts, two-component grouts)
- Atlas (cement and epoxy based mixes)
- Weber Vetonit (cement-based mixes)
- Unis (cement-based mixes)
- Litochrome (cement-based mixes and two-component epoxy mixes)
- Knauf (cement-based mixtures).
The high quality of the manufacturer's products does not guarantee you a reliable result if you do not carefully follow the instructions.
Porous tiles? There is a solution!
Porous ceramic tiles have high moisture-absorbing properties, so it is not recommended to use them in rooms with high humidity. In order for the tile not to suffer during operation, it is coated with a special glaze or varnish to increase water resistance. This varnish is also often used to create decoupage patterns on tiles. Although such a varnish is expensive, it gives the tile a number of very useful properties:
- protects against stains, moisture, dirt and dust
- makes tile maintenance and cleaning easier
- prevents the fading process
- gives a glossy surface.
Silicone grouts are often used to process seams and joints of ceramic tiles. Treating the seams in this way increases the watertightness of the seams and prevents the formation of mold and fungus. The work is carried out using a special gun with a ready-made composition, which greatly facilitates the process of processing seams.
Laying tiles is a troublesome business, so it is often trusted to the masters. But besides the tile itself, there are also seams between the fragments, which also require processing. And at this stage it is quite possible to manage on your own, as you will now see.
Choice of grout
Compositions are used to process seams different types, namely:
When choosing such a tool, pay attention to the width of the seam and the thickness of the tile: these are the main characteristics that you should focus on. Important! Going to the store, take one tile with you - this will greatly facilitate the choice.
Another nuance: if during the cladding process the tile was laid on a deformed surface (this happens), it is better to take a superplastic composition, which will not only “grab” the seam itself, but also additionally hold the side edges of the slabs. Do not forget about the color scheme, or rather its selection:
- Floor seams are not treated with light mixtures - this is at least impractical.
- The light tone of the grout visually connects the individual tiles into a single composition, while the dark composition separates them into fragments.
- In the case of tiles of different shades, the color is chosen with an eye on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. For example, for a small room, a tone for the lightest tile is suitable - this will visually expand the room. In spacious apartments, a darker mixture will do.
- Calm shades of the seam (light gray, beige and others) are used to work with multi-colored tiles laid in the form of a mosaic.
- When processing wall joints, it is desirable that the grout contrasts with the tone floor covering(and at the same time it coincided with the color of the interior details).
Did you know? The predecessor of ceramic tiles was brick, covered with a thick (up to 1 cm) layer of glaze. This technology was actively used in ancient Babylon.
Having decided on the choice of the mixture, ask the seller if it will change color during the cooking process.
Required Tools
In addition to the mixture itself, you will need a simple “props” for work:
- Spatula with rubber nozzle (than larger size tiles, the wider the edge should be). Sets of rubber spatulas of different widths are also sold.
- Plywood for flooring.
- The bucket in which the mixture will be prepared.
- Drill with mixer nozzle.
- A clean rag and sponge - they remove excess grout.
Surface preparation
Everything starts with preparation. Her algorithm for old walls and new cladding is different, but first things first. 
old walls
In the case when the old seam is faded or covered with mold, but it is not planned to shift the tiles, they act as follows:
- The old layer is softened by moistening with water.
- Then it is scraped off. To do this, there is a special tool - an opener in the form of a cutter with a straight edge. Although many work with a nail in the old fashioned way, which requires accuracy.
- Antifungal mastic is laid in the formed voids. For safety net, this procedure is repeated, after waiting until the first ball grabs (which is especially important for areas near the bathtub or sink).
Important! If the old seam seized strongly and could not be removed completely, it is imperative to apply a primer under the new mixture (naturally, it must dry out).
Practice shows that cement and latex compositions are removed without much effort. But to remove epoxy, you will have to take a special solvent. It must be used with extreme caution - try not to get liquid on the lining. After that, it remains to remove the dust that has got there from the gaps (a dry rag and a vacuum cleaner will help with this). 
New tile
Work with fresh "masonry" is started no earlier than 2 days after facing: the tile must be fixed on the surface.
After making sure that it is firmly held, carry out the following manipulations:- Remove all marking crosses with a flat screwdriver or a knife.
- Remove the remnants of paraffin or glue (if any were used).
- Thoroughly wipe the tile with a dry cloth.
- Do not forget to go through the empty seams so far with a vacuum cleaner - this is how they remove the debris that the rag did not get.
There are a huge number of mixtures, and each of them is sold in a package that has instructions. All the details of the preparation of the composition are indicated there: the amount of dry material and water (or latex), temperature and consumption rates.
Did you know? In the German city of Mettlach, a unique enterprise for the production of small-format tiles from porcelain masses still operates. The factory began work in 1748!
For clarity, let's consider this process using the waterproof composition Ceresit CE 40 Aquastatic as an example:- For 2 kg of dry workpiece, take 0.6 l of water at a temperature of +15 ... + 20 ° С.
- The mixture is poured into the water gradually, otherwise it will take a lump.
- Taking a mixer, the resulting mass is mixed until homogeneous (when the drill is rotated at 400-800 rpm).
- Seeing that the mixture is "the same", it is left for 5-7 minutes, followed by another mixing.
- After waiting the same time, the grout is applied to the voids between the tiles.
As you can see, there is nothing tricky. Of course, the doses and quantities, as well as the duration of exposure for different mixtures will differ (that is, there is an instruction), but general idea we already have. Process technology
The main part of the work is also within the power of everyone. And it does not matter whether the old layer is being changed or a new one is being laid. You can verify this by looking at the progress of the process.
Renewal of old seams
Having prepared the mixture, begin its application:
- Having typed a little grout on the spatula, the portion is laid, pressing inward. At the same time, they try to keep the spatula at an angle (about 30 ° to the tile).
- First, the solution is applied across the seams, and only then - along. They start from the most noticeable corners, passing them from top to bottom, so as not to spoil the finished seam.
- The excess that has fallen on the tile is immediately removed with a spatula, and then with a damp sponge. They harden quickly, so hurry up.
- Carefully pass along the finished seam with a trowel (or a sponge wrapped in a dry rag).
- After aligning the seams in this way, wait until they seize a little. This is the best moment for jointing: a piece of cable will fit, which is slightly pressed into the new layer and carried out along the entire length. Part of the grout will fall out or go to the tile - remove it.
- Then it remains to wait a day or two. That is how long it will take for the layer to harden and it can be cleaned with fine sandpaper, trying not to scratch the tile itself.
Important! Do not wet the sponge too much - it is not surprising to wash off part of the freshly laid grout.
Video: updating tile joints
In general, the task is quite feasible. True, difficulties periodically arise with the old walls - in some places they sometimes act as a “hump”. When processing such areas, they put less mortar (which will save time on grinding in the future).
Jointing of freshly laid tiles
The technology for applying new seams is almost identical to working with old masonry - the basic manipulations are the same. But there are also points to keep in mind:
- The voids are pre-treated with a primer (if possible, minimizing leakage) and only after it has dried, the seam is jointed.
- The direction of the edge of the spatula also changes - a diagonal penetration is more suitable for a new cladding.
- They take more mixtures, in case there are mini-voids under the corners of the tile (the excess will still be washed off).
- It is advisable to work with small areas: processed one "square" - started another.
Tile cleaning
You can clean the seams and tiles only after complete drying, and ideally even after 1.5-2 weeks. The first cleaning of the mixture is usually done in a dry way - with a scraper or a soft metal brush pass the very top of the layer. This removes dirt and dust that has entered the solution during curing. You do not need to press hard, otherwise there is a risk of removing part of the frozen mixture.
Did you know? Among the masters, the outer part of the tile is called the "biscuit".
It is at this time that the new layer is treated with reinforcing compounds: polymers, water repellents or sealants. They repel moisture, and drops that fall on the joint flow down, and do not penetrate inside. After waiting until the protection dries, you can proceed to a thorough wet cleaning of the tile with sponges and rags soaked in water or a special product.
Video: how to clean tiles
Suitable for this:
- Sprays and gels for tile care.
- Soap based solution laundry soap or liquid shampoo.
- Weak chalk solution.
- Ammonia. They rub the most problematic places, previously sprinkled with ordinary soda.
- The stains remaining after wet cleaning in the form of white plaque are removed after complete drying (with a dry or wet cloth).
In order for the tile to please the eye with its impeccable appearance for longer, it needs simple but regular care: at least once a month it is recommended to thoroughly wash the entire surface with special detergents.
Important! When washing the joints treated with silicone, you should not make a huge effort - this material peels off easily.
Otherwise, the rules for handling tiles come down to:- Timely removal of splashes from the surface (no puddles should be).
- Periodic wiping with a soft cloth soaked in a vinegar solution that adds shine.
- The same applies to alcohol or vodka (although it will take time to weather).
- Careful handling of tiles. It is advisable not to lean against it a sharp or heavy tool and other objects that can cause a scratch.
- If possible, avoid placing containers with powerful alkalis nearby - with such a neighborhood, the tile runs the risk of losing its luster.
We learned how to grout the seams between tiles. We hope that our readers will easily master this technique, and the end result will in no way be inferior to the work performed by a professional. And may all undertakings be successful! The final moment in the design of the walls with tiles is always grouting. After that, the finish takes on a finished aesthetic appearance. Do-it-yourself grouting tiles in the bathroom does not require professional skills.
Sealing the joints between tiles is carried out in order to give the surface an aesthetic appearance and affects the protection against fungal infections, and also increases the life of the finish itself. What tools and materials are needed for the work and how to correctly grout the joints in the bathroom on your own we will tell below.
So, we decided to do the grouting ourselves. To do this, stock up on some theoretical knowledge.
Do-it-yourself grouting tiles in the bathroom does not require professional skills
Installation of tiles always involves ensuring the distance between them. This is done to protect the tiles from cracking that can occur from temperature fluctuations in the bathroom and changes in the water regime. Also, there are always gaps between the tiles and installed sanitary appliances: bathroom, sink, baseboards. These gaps must be sealed to prevent dust and moisture from entering them.
Used for sealing seams different types grouts that have their purpose.
Main types:
The cost of two kilograms of dry mix for grouting for the bathroom is about two hundred rubles. The brand of the manufacturer, composition, color, and packaging influence the pricing policy of grout mixtures.
The well-established brands that produce tile mixes are: Baulux, Ceresit, Knauf, Atlas. Each of them is suitable for working with seams in the bathroom.
If the area requiring embedding is small, you can use liquid solutions.
Grouting ceramic tiles
Grouting technique
Preparation stage
Clean the seams of dust. This is easy to do with a vacuum cleaner. If you don't have a vacuum cleaner, use a medium bristle brush. Clean the old seams from the old grout and dirt.
Tip: Pick up tools in advance and care products will not leave scratches on the tile.
Wet the seams with water. You can do this with a household spray bottle for flowers.
ATTENTION!: Begin grouting twenty-four hours after tiling.
To organize the work you need:
Pour dry grout into the prepared container. Dilute with water and stir the mixture well to the desired consistency of thick sour cream. The proportions are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. Stir the solution twice, with a break of fifteen minutes. This is necessary for its maturation. As an auxiliary tool for stirring, you can use a mixer.
As an auxiliary tool for stirring, you can use a mixer
Proceed to the stage when the preparatory procedures are completed. Scoop the finished grout mixture out of the container with a steel spatula. Take a small amount of mortar from it and fill the seam. Remove excess grout. How much mixture, for the convenience of work, it is necessary to take on a rubber spatula for grouting a seam, experience will tell. Also, alternately, fill in the remaining sections.
Tip: The mixture may shrink. In this case, repeat the application of a fresh coat.
After completing the work, take a break for about thirty minutes - until the grout dries, after which you will conduct a visual revision of the seams. Moisten the prepared rag with warm water, wring it out well and remove excess mortar from the tile with light movements.
IMPORTANT! Remove excess mastic with wide movements in a circle. This will ensure that the integrity of the grout is maintained in the seams. This is especially important for mosaic tiles.
Unfilled areas that appear after the grout has dried, fill and let dry. Next, wipe the tile with a damp cloth.
Tip: To avoid streaks on the tiles, wash the sponge periodically. Remove excess mastic from the tile immediately, without waiting for it to dry completely. Otherwise, to remove it, you will have to use a solvent.
Unfilled areas that appear after the grout has dried, fill and let dry
After the grout has dried, wipe the entire surface of the tile with a damp cloth. Wait for the grout to dry completely.
The manufacturer indicates the drying time on the packaging. Usually it is twenty-four hours:
It is always possible to refresh the mastic applied several years ago, and even change it by choosing a grout in a color that contrasts with the tile, to embody new ideas. For example, black tiles will be perfectly combined with golden grout.
The question is very relevant for many. Joint protection can be done:
- Silicone sealant.
- Ceramic corner.
- Plastic plinth.
- Self-adhesive tape.
When a sink or bathtub is installed close to a wall, level the seam with sealant - this will provide protection from water ingress. Before applying the sealant, the seam is cleaned of dust and cut, in order to form an inconspicuous connection between the surfaces.
Before applying the sealant, the seam is cleaned of dust and cut, in order to form an inconspicuous connection between the surfaces.
Renovating old grout in the bathroom
After a certain time, between the tile seams in the bathroom should be updated. The need is caused by both external aesthetics and hygienic requirements. In old seams, when the premises are sufficiently damp, a large number of bacteria and fungi accumulate, and this is very dangerous for health. A person can develop allergic reactions and skin diseases. Therefore, keeping the premises in a clean and repaired condition is necessary for the normal performance of its functionality.
Sanitation of the bathroom must be carried out regularly. It is necessary to thoroughly wipe and rinse all elements of ceramics and faience, as well as the gaps between them. A large arsenal of tile care products, released by our chemical industry, will help with this. To clean the bathroom, it is better to use chlorine-containing solutions, they eliminate up to 98% of known bacteria. However, after a while, the grout between the seams can become thinner from constant mechanical and chemical stress and a new grout is required. To determine if it needs to be replaced, consider the following signs:
- There was a darkening of the seams.
- The mastic is crumbling from the seams.
- Fragments of black mold were found on the seams.
- Yellow mud appeared.
Tip: If you have any of the above signs, urgently carry out a general cleaning of the old mastic in the bathroom.
It often happens when the usual general cleaning is not enough - too “neglected” seams (rust, mold). In this case, use more serious measures: replacing the grout between the tiles. This allows you to reorganize the room, change its grout color, which in general has a positive effect on appearance premises.
In this case, use more serious measures: replacing the grout between the tiles.
Use a spatula to get rid of the old grout. To do this, moisten the seam with water, then carefully scrape off all the mastic. Perform work very carefully, as there is a chance of breaking the surface of the tile. To remove epoxy from the joints, use a special solvent. After the seams are cleaned, carry out an antifungal treatment. This must be done both before applying the solution, and after it dries.
IMPORTANT! Do not neglect antifungal treatment. It is necessary to fight bacteria and prevent the destruction of the grout.
New coating
Applying grout between tiles in the bathroom is an easy task that any beginner can handle. The sequence of all works has already been considered above. The dry mixture is mixed with water. Do this carefully, as there is a danger of the solution becoming too thin. The normal consistency of the grout should reach the state of thick sour cream. After mixing the solution well, leave it for fifteen minutes. Stir again (so the mixture dissolves better) and begin to fill the seams between the tiles with small strokes.
There is a possibility that the mortar will crack when it dries, so that this does not happen, when it dries, spray the seam with plain water. If voids form, repeat the grouting process. After carrying out these works, rub the seams with a sponge.
Avoiding the need to change the grout layer of the seams in the future, periodically clean the bathroom.
IMPORTANT! After completing all work, before performing water procedures, wait for the seams to dry completely, it will take at least five days.
We repeat that the best prevention of durable grouting will be coating with protective agents. It will protect against the influence of negative factors, increase the service life of the grout, and avoid the appearance of cracks on the tile.
Thus, by following the above tips, you will not only enjoy the work done by your own hands, but also save yourself from financial expenses in the future.
Grouting tile joints with glue do it yourself
Today, most bathrooms are finished with ceramic tiles. This finish looks beautiful and solves the problem of mold spreading on walls and floors due to high humidity. But in order for this task to be solved, high-quality grouting is needed. This article will tell you how to grout the seams on the tiles and what tool to use.
The joint between tiles is the most vulnerable point for moisture penetration. High-quality tile grout is capable of long time protect the cladding from moisture and destruction. Often, grouting is not required, as many choose rectified ceramic tiles (butted), but this is far from the most reliable way protecting the walls of the bathroom from the penetration of steam, while sealing is not performed.
How to choose grout? This is a dry cement-based mortar. There is also a silicone grout. Sealing must be done on a completely dry substrate.
The main advantages of laying tiles using grout:
- the ability to hide irregularities and errors formed during the laying of tiles;
- preventing the development of fungus and mold;
- compensation of deformation during thermal expansion and contraction;
- beautiful and neat appearance, the grout has a different color, so it is easy to match.
Typically, the following mixtures are used for grouting tiles:
- Epoxy moisture resistant. The basis of the mixture is cement and various additives that give plasticity. It is used for tile joints less than 5 mm wide, as it shrinks when dry. Epoxy tile grout is recommended for bathroom tiling.
- Sand and synthetic resin based grouting is used when sealing wider gaps.
- The silicone mixture is the most moisture resistant, therefore it is used when sealing places where the lining is in contact with plumbing and the joint is sealed.
When choosing a grout for a bathroom, always pay attention to the antifungal properties of the material. The grout can be matched to the color of the tile, a tone or two lighter, since it tends to darken after hardening. The most popular brands are Atlas, Knauf, Ceresit. If you can not decide which grout to choose for the bathroom, contact a consultant in the store for help.
It is convenient to use a tile marker to paint over the joints. Thanks to the antibacterial formula, the marker is able to protect the seams from fungus and mold.
Applying the grout
Process steps:
- preparatory work;
- grouting tiles;
- washing.
On the preparatory stage the seams between the tiles in the bathroom must be cleaned of glue and dirt, the entire surface of the tile must be thoroughly washed. Prepare a rubberized tool and soft rags in advance to protect the tiles from scratches. Jointing of tile joints is carried out not less than a day after laying the tile. Before grouting tiles, the seam should be slightly moistened. 
Tools, materials and fixtures required for grouting
- container for preparing grout for tiles;
- water;
- rubber spatula;
- steel spatula;
- trowel gun;
- sponge.
The mixture is prepared according to the instructions on the package. The solution must be mixed until smooth. Use strict proportions so that the color of the tile gaps is the same. After kneading, you need to wait the time required by the manufacturer, mix again and you can proceed to the next step.
If you do not know how to grout the seams on the tiles, it is better to turn to experienced professionals. However, grouting tiles in the bathroom with your own hands is not a difficult task.
Stitching
Take a small amount of the mixture with a rubber spatula, and then wipe the seam without leaving any empty areas. You can remove the remnants of the grout mixture using the same tool, passing it perpendicular to the cladding. Similarly, wipe the gaps over the entire area. If the material shrinks, re-apply a thin layer of the mixture on top of the seam, it is important to keep the same color. 
After filling the gaps, wait 30 minutes and proceed to repair the joints and clean the tiles. To do this, moisten a soft sponge with water, wring it out slightly and remove excess material from the ceramic surface with light, circular movements. It is important to clean exactly in a circle so as not to wash the grout out of the gaps.
Correction of the joints is carried out if, after cleaning the excess material, unfilled areas remain. In this case, these areas just need to be wiped again. After complete drying (1 - 2 days), wash the tiles well. To give the tiled surface a more aesthetic appearance, varnish can be applied to the joints. 
Many craftsmen produce jointing not with a rubber spatula, but with a piece of rubberized cable. There is also a special tool for this - a joint expander, but it is used in rare cases.
When using a cable, simply run it along the joint, the seam is formed better and more accurately, unlike working with a spatula. The wire must be selected larger in diameter than the gap. All other procedures are performed in the same way.
The grout for tile joints hardens completely within a week, this must be taken into account when putting the premises into full operation after repair.
Replacing the old grout with a new one
The need to perform this work may arise when changing the design (the color of the grout material does not fit), poor quality work or if repairs are necessary. When an existing grout is destroyed, the sealing of the seam is broken, and moisture gets under the tile.
Tools and fixtures used to remove material:
- softener;
- hard sponge;
- scraper;
- scraper.
The work is carried out in several stages:
Updating the grout with a marker
The trowel marker is used quite often. Grouting with a marker is possible even for beginners. The disadvantage of the method using a marker is its fragility and the impossibility of sealing. After a while, the tile grout will lose color and begin to darken and collapse again. 
The process of updating seams with a marker consists of the following steps:
- Joint preparation. Rinse the old grout well with detergent, remove mold and mildew. Fill the destroyed areas with grout, this process is carried out similarly to jointing. Rub the seams with fine sandpaper, without touching the surface of the ceramic tile. Rinse the seams again and let them dry well.
- Coating with a marker. The procedure is quite easy, but after a while the joints will again lose color and become unsightly.
You can buy a marker at almost any hardware store. The marker is not only a tool that allows you to update the state of the gaps, but also helps to provide various design solutions(Glittering, bright color).
The use of coloring compositions
Special paint will not only give your bathroom walls a new look, but will also help remove mold. With the use of paint, you can get a brighter and more saturated color of the grout.
