Grind tile seams. How to grout tile seams with your own hands in the bathroom

Wall and floor covering in the bathroom with tiles - a traditional type of decoration in rooms with high humidity. The gaps formed between the tiles are filled with special materials.

They maintain the tightness and integrity of the coating for many years. How to grout seams do-it-yourself bathroom tiles The answers to this and other questions can be found in this article.

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What kind of grout happens

Before stitching, you should understand what grout is, what it is, and how to use it correctly. Grout - special construction material, designed to fill the gaps between the details of the finish. It serves practical purposes, creates a certain decorative effect. Depending on the component composition, the grouts are cement, epoxy, silicone. The most popular are the first 2 types.

Cement grout is made on the basis of Portland cement. It consists of cement clinker, gypsum, mineral additives.

Thanks to these ingredients, it acquires the necessary plasticity, viscosity, strength, moisture resistance. It is produced in a wide range by the German company Cerezit. (products CE33 Super, CE35, CE40 Aquastatic).

Epoxy grout for tiles - a two-component composition. It is more efficient than cement aggregate, as it is used as decorative and waterproof material. The composition of this tile joint filler includes a hardener (cement) and epoxy resin. For cladding bathroom surfaces epoxy products is optimal. They have several advantages:

• excellent resistance to moisture: liquid droplets roll into balls, do not penetrate inside;
• special strength, high degree of hardening;
• long service life in an aggressive environment: 10 years or more;
• no cracks during hardening;
• use of chemical components harmless to health;
• excellent decorative characteristics: a wide range of colors.

Attention! Colored epoxy grouts do not lose their shade from bright sunlight, do not fade from water.

When using this filler, work is carried out quickly: it has high curing speed. For application, special tools are used that require some skill. If you need to remove the tool, you will have to remove it along with tiles.

The most popular two-component fillers are Fuga Epoxi 710, Cerezit CE44. These are expensive but highly effective products.

Used in construction silicone, latex, furan fillers tile joints. They have good decorative properties, but are slightly inferior in basic characteristics of cement and epoxy materials. They are rarely used in bathrooms.

In the construction markets, you can buy expensive and budget compositions of well-known brands. In addition to the German Ceresit, grout ceramic tiles produced by the Italian company Maley, the Polish concern Atlas. Products of Finnish Kiilto, Italian Litochrome are in consumer demand.

Attention! Before choosing a grout, you should read the information about it and consult with experts. Epoxy fillers are difficult to work with. To acquire the skill, it is worth trying other types first.

Do-it-yourself grout for seams

Gap filler tiles you can do it yourself. To do this, it is enough to buy a dry mix. It is diluted with water or liquid latex in the proportions indicated by the manufacturer. The result should be a viscous, plastic mass. It is made in plastic container using a mixer (drill with a special nozzle).

Homemade grout can be made from cement. It is used by many masters.

Components:

• portland cement M 300-400 - 1 part;
• sifted sand - 3 parts;
• water.

Cooking

1. Cement and sand thoroughly mixed with each other.
2. Gradually add water using a power tool, knead the solution until the components are completely dissolved and a homogeneous mass is obtained.
3. The resulting composition leave for 15-20 minutes. Then they start working with it.

This mixture is used in the decoration of the floor, walls in bathrooms. To obtain a colored material, a tint (dye) is added to the water.

Execution of processes for filling tile joints

Experts know how to properly wipe tiles. They willingly share the secrets of the correct use of plastic materials and advise to perform the work step by step.

Preparatory process

In preparation collect tools(devices) and make a solution according to the instructions (if a dry mixture is used):

• capacity (bucket, basin);
• rubber spatula (scraper with a rubber nozzle, a piece of thick linoleum);
• paint roller (painting brush);
• stitching (toothbrush);
• sponge, piece of cloth.

For protection, you need rubber gloves, goggles, respirator.

A novice craftsman may need a construction bag for grouting their own hands.

He reminds pastry bag, which has a hole at the bottom with a nozzle. Through it, the mixture freely enters the inter-tile spaces.

The master has the ability to control the quantity extruded composition. The tile practically does not get dirty.

Attention! It is especially good with the help of a bag to grout the joints of clinker tiles with your own hands. She has texture front surface, which is difficult to clean from the remnants of the mixture.

Trowel work

Before applying tile grout over the entire area of ​​the bathroom, make a control sample. Prepare part of the composition and fill them with gaps in a small area. Let the material set. If something does not suit, the composition is corrected according to the consistency, shade, degree of filling.

The main work is performed in the following order:

• the finished composition is collected with a spatula on a piece of plywood or another spatula;
• rubber product take part of the mixture and fill the seam with it, carefully running along the edges of adjacent tiles;
• using stitching compact the building mixture and add material when voids are formed;
• wipe the tile with a damp sponge (rag), removing the protruding remains of the composition;
• after the aggregate has hardened, the tile can be washed.

Thus perform wall and floor work. How to properly grout the tiles in the bathroom, will show the video of the work performed by professionals.

Important Points

During operation grout can crack and fall out. This is due to the peculiarities of the premises, shrinkage of the material, its poor quality, violation of technology. You can fix the situation yourself. The mixture used in the repair is diluted to the consistency of sour cream and rub into the seams with gloved hands.

If the inter-tile aggregate spills out, it is cleaned with a brush and filled with a new, more durable compound. The best grout for tiles in the bathroom is the one that has moisture resistant structure. It does not crumble and perfectly keeps in a seam.

Useful video

Filling the joints between the tiles in the bathroom will not be difficult. It is important to choose the right and carefully perform the work, following the technology of using grout mixtures.

Of course, it is an excellent and practical floor covering. It is especially good in rooms exposed to moisture, and places characterized by high traffic. That is why such floors are most popular in many offices and institutions. Our apartments are no exception. Tiles on the floor today can be found not only in bathrooms and kitchens and hallways, but sometimes even in living rooms. Fortunately, on the construction market you can find an extensive range of this material, sometimes capable of imitating almost any surface. True, this flooring will be beautiful only if it can be correctly and accurately laid. And an important role in this procedure is played by the final stage - grouting the tiles on the floor. It is on how correctly this is done that the visual effect produced by the coating will depend.

How do they rub the seams between the tiles on the floor, how to do it right and why do you need to do it at all? We will answer all these questions in our review.

What are seams and why overwrite them

During the master, special crosses are laid between the elements, which contribute to the formation of seams - the same distances between each tile. And they are needed so that, firstly, the facing material in the end looks neat and aesthetically pleasing. In addition, laying is not always carried out on a solid foundation; sometimes there is a floor under the tile, which can be subject to shrinkage processes. And if you do not leave these small distances, then ceramic coating can simply crack under the influence of the movements of the same concrete slab occurring under it. However, if the joints are left unfilled, then over time they will simply become clogged with dirt, which is unlikely to contribute to a favorable impression of the floor. And in those rooms where there is moisture, mold will begin to form in the seams. And so that such problems do not arise, the seam between the tiles is filled with special mixtures - grouts.

What are grouts

Before looking for information on how to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of this very grout. Professionals also call it a fugue. The fact is that not every material presented in stores is suitable for a particular room. All grout compositions are divided into types. There are quite a few of them, but it is enough for a non-professional to know only that there are fugues made on the basis of cement, made on the basis of epoxy resin and combined, which are called epoxy-cement.

The former belong to the category of the simplest and are suitable for use only in those rooms in which there is practically no humidity. If we take into account the fact that it is almost impossible not to wash the floors, then this option can not be considered at all. That is, grouting ceramic tiles on the floor with a cement fugue is undesirable.

Epoxy grouts are the highest quality and are suitable for any coating in any room, as they have high strength characteristics and are moisture resistant. However, they have one significant drawback. They are quite expensive. In addition, they are suitable for filling joints with a width of at least four millimeters, and it is quite difficult for a non-professional to work with them. So home master it is recommended to pay attention to an intermediate option, which is ideal for flooring not only in the living areas of apartments, but also in bathrooms and kitchens. Simply put, a cement-epoxy fugue is considered a universal option for the home, since it can be used to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor in almost any room.

How to choose "your" grout

First of all, you need to read what is written on the package. The manufacturer must indicate there optimal width seams, in which it is rational to use one or another fugue. Accordingly, you need to know your own dimensions. There are also universal grouts. They can be applied to flooring, the width of the seams of which is from two to twenty-two millimeters.

Then, having chosen the desired composition, pay attention to its color. The palette of shades in the store is presented in a large assortment, but you still need to know some basic rules. For example, the fact that contrasting grout can only be used if you are sure that your tile is laid perfectly. Usually, the best option is to choose a tone that is as close as possible to the color of the tile. If the latter has a pattern of a different shade, then you can take a fugue of the same color as him.

Process steps

Before grouting the seams on the tiles on the floor, you must first wait a day after. This time can just be spent on buying a fugue and the necessary tools. The process of grouting itself consists of several stages. These are: preparing the base, diluting the grout (unless, of course, you purchased it ready-made, which, by the way, is quite expensive), applying the mortar to the seams, removing excess and final cleaning.

What will the master need to have for the grouting procedure

Special equipment and tools are not required, however, some set will still have to be prepared. Naturally, the trowel itself must already be purchased directly. By the way, it can be in the form of a powder, or it can be sold already ready for use. In principle, the second option is better in every way, since it is much easier to rub the seams on the tiles on the floor with such a composition, if only because it already has the desired consistency. To achieve the latter is not quite a skillful master, who carries out this procedure for the first time, with self-kneading, it is quite difficult the first time.

However, such a fugue also has its drawbacks. And the main one among them, in addition to the cost mentioned above, is that such a grout is not subject to long-term storage. That is, the remains of an expensive mixture, most likely, will have to be thrown away. So experts recommend that novice craftsmen still purchase dry grouts. And since such a thing, it is required to have on hand in this case also a container for breeding. You will also need a trowel, a special spatula (rubber), a foam rubber sponge and clean rags, a bucket for water, gloves and an abrasive grater.

Training

The tiled floor must be carefully cleaned of tile adhesive, if any, as well as dirt and dust. It also does not hurt to walk first with a vacuum cleaner, and then with a brush along the seams. Then you need to take a sponge and moisten them with plenty of water. After that, you can start breeding grout.

How to breed fugu

First, experts recommend carefully reading the instructions. Despite the fact that the grout dilution procedure is, in principle, the same, each manufacturer may still have its own nuances. Therefore, do not be lazy and carefully study what is written on the label. Then take three-quarters of the water from the rate indicated on the package and pour the puffer into it. Mix everything carefully. And then slowly add water until the solution reaches the desired consistency. After 10 minutes you can start working. It is necessary to grout only with gloves, since the mixture is quite capable of corroding the skin of the hands with prolonged contact.

Advice from experts! Since the novice master does not yet have the necessary skills, and the grout dries out within just a few hours, it is better not to dilute the entire mixture at once. Divide the contents of the package into two parts. And work out one first, and then the other. As for the amount of water needed for kneading, it must also be divided by half.

We rub the seams on the floor

The most common is the method using a rubber spatula. Since it will not be necessary to work immediately on the entire territory, but to process tiles literally per square meter, experts recommend moistening a couple of “squares” with water again immediately before the process itself. In general, professionals process 2-3 square meters. m in twenty minutes. A novice master will not be able to achieve such a speed, but this is not so important. The main thing here is accuracy and careful observance of technology. Well, the fact that you finish the work an hour or two later does not really matter.

So, how to properly grout tiles? Apply a puffer to the rubber spatula and begin to fill the seams with diagonal movements. And do not just smear on top, but try to press the composition, as it were, so that it fills the seam completely. Remove excess with the same spatula. At the same time, make sure that the filled joint coincides in level with the level of the tile. That is, if there are any recesses or voids, be sure to immediately add a fugue there. Since you need to grout the tiles on the floor in stages, work this way for about half an hour. After that, proceed to cleaning the jointed area.

To do this, arm yourself with a bucket of water and a sponge. Constantly wetting it and squeezing it well, go through the foam rubber over the entire surface, making movements in a circle. Your goal is to remove excess from the tile itself and the seams. If stains remain on the tile - this is not a problem. They will be removed during the final cleaning process. Now the main thing is not to leave pieces of dried fugue on ceramics. It won't be easy to remove it later. After you have processed one area, proceed to the next. And so on until all the seams are worn.

Finishing

After a day, you can begin to correct. It may well be that in some places the seams are not uniform enough. That is, there are surpluses. Experts recommend in this case to take either a grater and go through all the seams with them, holding the tool at one angle. Simply put, polish them. After that, you need to remove it with a vacuum cleaner, and then again take up wet cleaning. That is, thoroughly rinse the seams and tiles with a foam rubber sponge, periodically changing the dirty water. After the floor dries, stains may remain on it. Experts recommend in this case not to wash it a hundred times, but simply carefully wipe it with a dry cloth. On this, the procedure can be considered completed.

How to grout tiles in the bathroom on the floor

Just like in any other room. Except that in this case, experts recommend adding another step - covering the joints with sealant. After all, the bathroom, like no other, is exposed to moisture. And quite often the seams on the floor, and even on the walls, turn black from mold. And to prevent this from happening, buy a special sealant. It represents a liquid. It should be applied three days after grouting (you need to let the fugue dry). Take a thin brush for drawing and gently coat the seams with it.

Conclusion

We tried to tell as much as possible in detail about how to overwrite the tiles on the floor. And at the same time they shared the secrets of experienced craftsmen and gave recommendations from specialists. We hope that now you will not have any difficulties with grouting tile joints.

The modern market of building and finishing materials pleases with a variety of choices, however, the undoubted leaders in this area have been determined for a long time. Ceramic tiles are one of the best time-tested facing materials. The tiled surface is practical and lasts a long time, and the presence of a material with an unlimited color palette allows you to realize the most sophisticated design projects. In addition, the popularity of tiles is also explained by the fact that, in principle, you can tile the walls yourself, and the necessary recommendations can be easily found on the global network. For example, we want to offer you the maximum useful information about how to grout the seams on the tiles.

Grout for tile joints - the offer of the modern market

After laying ceramic tiles, the final touch is grouting; without this procedure, finishing the walls and floors with tiles cannot be considered complete. In addition to practical significance, the seam also has a decorative feature - it complements the overall pattern on the wall or floor. Moreover, manufacturers produce many color additives.

Two types of grouts: based on cement or epoxy resin

Cement based grout Supplied as a dry mix, which is brought to working condition by dilution with water or liquid latex. Although ready-made grouts can also be found in the retail network, their price is an order of magnitude higher. Cement grout for tile joints in the vast majority of cases is made on the basis of Portland cement, and the special additives that make up the composition are the distinguishing components. All grouts of this type are divided into three groups:

• based on industrial Portland cement;
• based on dry hardener;
• based on a mixture of latex with Portland cement.

Interesting! Portland cement is a special type of cement that got its name because it was very similar in color to building stone, which was mined on the English island of Portland.

Epoxy grout includes epoxy resin and hardener, and gives the seams increased impact resistance and resistance to various chemical influences. Such a grout is characterized by a high cost and, as a rule, is used in the arrangement of premises for industrial or commercial purposes.

In addition, epoxy grout is characterized by excessive viscosity, so only a specialist can successfully work with it. Moreover, there are certain restrictions on its use: the thickness of the tile is from 12 mm, and the minimum joint width is 6 mm. Otherwise, such grout will simply not be able to properly penetrate into narrower seams.

Attention! To avoid serious problems with independent production work carefully read the manufacturer's instructions. This is the only way you can determine which tile grout is best for your particular situation.

Is it necessary to use sealant?

Grouting tile joints - a video instruction of the process, by the way, is located at the end of this article, it also involves processing joints using a sealant. It will protect the surface of the tile from excessive absorption of moisture, as well as protect it and the seams from stains. If the surface is finished with unglazed tiles, then it is completely covered with liquid sealant. Such a specific substance has acrylic, varnish or silicone in its composition. Therefore, it is necessary to choose it based on the type of tile and grout.

Between tiles distance

By and large, the width of the grout joint depends solely on personal preferences. Many people prefer narrow seams, which visually seem to suppress the tile. If the surface is made of elements with a size of 10-30 cm, then the most optimal will be a seam of the order of 3 mm. Sometimes tiles of 60 cm in size are also laid according to this scheme. If the tiles are irregular in shape, it is advisable to make a wider seam, but it should not be more than 12 mm.

Attention! The wider the seam, the more likely it is to crack. To seal it, it is necessary to apply a grout with the addition of sand, but this may not always ensure a seam from deformation.

On the other hand, you should not make the grout too narrow, as this will greatly complicate the grouting process, and as a result, they may turn out to be leaky, that is, water will seep under the tile. According to professional tilers, the joints should be wide enough so that they can be filled without problems with any of the selected grouts.

Only in this case, they will become waterproof and will act as a kind of shock absorbers in the process of compression or expansion of the tile. If the seam has a negligibly small width, then it will not have such parameters.

Tools and auxiliary materials

• Respirator (working with cement-based grout).
• Protective glasses.
• Latex gloves.
• Roller, rubber spatula or scraper with a rubber nozzle.
• Bucket.
• Sponge.
• Plywood.
• Jointing, a wooden stick sharpened at one end or a toothbrush.
• A piece of clean cloth.
• A small paint brush or paint roller.

Brief plan

1. The grout is mixed.
2. The solution is aged to the required level of water absorption.
3. The grout is mixed very thoroughly again.
4. The solution is distributed.
5. Excess is cleared.

Solution preparation

As a rule, dry grout is mixed with either water or latex liquid additives that replace water.

Note! Dry polymer grouts can only be mixed with water.

When using any type of liquid, it is necessary to add only such an amount that will be sufficient to prepare a plastic and easily spread mixture. This aspect is extremely important, since excess moisture can provoke a weakening of the grout. To do everything right, the solution must be mixed strictly according to the proportions indicated on the grout packaging. The container in which the solution will be mixed must be dry and clean.

When mixing the grout, the dry ingredient is added to the liquid. Moreover, initially about ¾ of the norm of the liquid indicated in the recipe is used. After all dry components are introduced into the solution in small portions, the remaining liquid is added, while not forgetting to control the consistency of the mixture.

Important! The grout preparation process can be influenced by external factors such as temperature regime indoors, relative humidity, and in addition the composition, for example, the presence of a dye.

It is recommended to use a trowel or an electric stirrer to mix the solution. If preference is given to the "automation" of this process, then the agitator must be completely immersed in the solution during operation, so that air will not enter it. After all, air bubbles can also weaken the grout solution. It is for this reason that the speed of the blade revolutions should not exceed 300 rpm. At the end of the mixing procedure, the solution must be left alone for 8-10 minutes, and then it can already be safely used for its intended purpose.

Grouting ceramic tiles - direct execution

Grouting ceramic tiles begins with laying the mortar on the surface of the tiles. For proper distribution, it is best to use a special trowel. It is held at an angle of 30 0 relative to the surface of the tile and is applied diagonally. It is necessary to go over the treated area with a grater 2-3 times, and not just covering the distance between the tiles, but trying to rub the solution into the seam with an effort to completely fill it. Naturally, the greater the resistance, the greater the filling density of the seam, and, accordingly, the stronger it will be. The main idea of ​​this work is that all the voids and corners around the tile, remaining after its laying, should be filled as much as possible. When applying the grout, the liquid will leave it, and the seam will be filled with particles of cement and sand. Thus, after hardening in the seam, a solid body will be obtained.

It is not necessary to grout the entire surface at the same time. The best option would be to distribute the solution over a small area, about 1-2 m. In the process, it will be found out how quickly the grout sets and whether there is a need for frequent stops associated with cleaning the surface. In some cases, it is possible to wipe 9-10 square meters. m, and then deal with the cleaning of the working area. If the solution sets quickly, then only rubbed small plot.

What is a grout bag?

If the tiled surface has such a structure that its cleaning process requires considerable effort, for example, imitation of an old brickwork, it is recommended to use a special grout bag. This "tool" visually resembles a pastry bag, with which housewives decorate cakes. A tip is attached to the end of the bag, the diameter of which corresponds to the width of the grout. Then the bag is filled with a solution, which is squeezed out with force directly into the seam.

When using a trowel bag, the tip is placed at the top of the joint and then advanced along as it fills. As a rule, all horizontal seams are filled first, and then vertical ones. In the process of applying the grout, it needs to be squeezed out a little more than it seems at first glance. After some hardening of the solution, it is compacted using jointing or a small piece of a metal smooth tube, the cross-sectional diameter of which over size seam. Then, within 30 minutes, you need to let the grout pressed in the seam seize and then the excess is removed using a stiff brush.

Wet grout removal

When it is visually determined that the grout has hardened sufficiently, the lined surface is wet cleaned. To do this, take an ordinary sponge dipped in ordinary clean water. In a circular motion, excess grout is removed from the tile, while do not forget about the frequent washing of the sponge in water, which must be changed as it gets dirty.

Dry grout removal

The seams need to be aligned and smoothed with a joint, that is, a wooden stick with a sharpened end or the end of a toothbrush handle. Then the edges are trimmed with a sponge. The resulting seam should be even and non-convex, in the vast majority of cases it turns out to be slightly concave. All seams must be the same shape and depth.

We hope our detailed instructions will help you to properly perform self-grouting on a ceramic tiled surface. If some points require clarification, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the training video clip.

It does not matter whether you decide to lay the tiles yourself or call the master - this knowledge will be useful in any case! Knowing the process in theory, you will be able to apply the information obtained with ease in practice, as well as control employees. After all, it is you who will then have to face possible problems.

Choosing materials - classic cement or modern epoxy?

It used to be that tilers used the same mortar for all operations, but today masters have access to mixtures for each separate stage styling. The grout for tile joints must not only be durable, but also have high decorative qualities, resist moisture, household chemicals and dirt. In order not to get lost in the names, consider the very essence of the grouts. To begin with, we divide them into two groups: cement and epoxy.

Cement grouts consist of especially finely ground cement, fine sand, color, plasticizers and other additives that improve the physico-chemical characteristics of the hardened mixture. Like any cement mixture, these grouts are kneaded with water or latex, resulting in a very plastic, somewhat putty-like mixture. It should be noted that cement grouts are very easy to work with, which cannot be said about their main competitor - epoxy grouts, which require remarkable skill and diligence.

Cement grouts begin to harden 20-30 minutes after application, as evidenced by a decrease in color brightness. At this time, the remains of the grout should be removed from the surface of the tile - a damp foam rubber sponge is best suited for this, you can get by with ordinary rags. After a few more hours, they pass over the surface of the tiles with a damp cloth or mop.

Cement grouts have one significant advantage - low price and availability. However, there are a number of disadvantages - the rough surface of the grout is quickly clogged with dust, due to which the seams become dirty gray, due to exposure to moisture and household chemicals, the solidified mixture begins to crack and crumble, in wide seams even at the stage of grouting appear cracks.

Partially, the problem is solved by water repellents or polyurethane water-repellent varnishes, which should be applied with a thin brush to each seam.

Epoxy mixtures are devoid of all these disadvantages, but still they cannot be called ideal - their price is not at all ideal, and as mentioned above, it will take a lot of experience to work with them. The fact is that the mixture obtained after mixing the components is quite solid, and it requires great effort to apply it, moreover, the grout quickly hardens, creating problems when cleaning the mixture from the tile. Therefore, even experienced craftsmen make very small portions by mixing the hardener with epoxy.

But then you will forget about tile seams forever. After hardening, epoxy compounds acquire a flat, smooth surface that perfectly repels dust and dirt, is absolutely indifferent to the effects of acids and alkalis, and easily tolerates cleaning with a metal brush. The decorative properties of such compositions are enhanced with the help of all kinds of sparkles, and even components glowing in the dark. Please note that you can only remove such grout from the seams with the tile itself.

Grouting - do it yourself

Step 2: Making your own grout

Cement grout mixture is prepared by adding a dry composition to water. The density of a properly prepared grout is similar to the consistency of sour cream. Mix the composition in small volumes, since even cement grout hardens within 20 minutes. In no case do not try to dilute the hardened solution with water - even if you manage to get a homogeneous mixture, it will crack very quickly after hardening.

Epoxy grout is prepared by mixing two components - the epoxy itself with dyes and fillers and a hardener. At first, epoxy resin may seem very hard and unyielding - don't worry, everything is right, a little diligence, and you will be able to mix the components until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To be sure, watch the video on how to handle such a composition.

Step 3: Apply grout to the seams

Do not be afraid to use a wide spatula - take more grout on the spatula and apply it with a wide strip on the seams, counting on capturing 1 square meter. Do not be afraid to use force, as if pressing the grout into the seams - the harder and denser you press, the better the mixture will be distributed inside the seams, the smoother they will look. The spatula should be held at an angle of 30° and guided diagonally across the tile. Remove the rest of the mixture with a spatula and use for the remaining areas. It should take you no more than 15 minutes to use one batch for cement grouts and even less time for epoxy grouts.

Step 4: Remove Contaminants

Immediately after applying the solution, you can proceed with your own hands. To do this, use a soft foam sponge, which should be washed frequently and squeezed out well. The sponge should be barely damp so as not to wash out the solution from the seams. The sponge should be guided along the seam, this way you will form the final shape of the line. However, the most the best option is the smoothing of the line with the index or thumb. Please note that the grout should be below the level of the tile, as if in a recess. After all, the tile should be wiped dry with a clean cloth. After achieving perfect purity polishing will help. Grout from tiles is well removed by means such as table vinegar, lemon juice, ammonia or toothpaste.

Grout update - we carry out restoration work

Cement grouts quickly lose their presentable appearance, but there are no difficulties in updating the seams. The easiest way is to cover the grout with special paint, which is sold in every hardware store. In addition to the paint itself, you will need a thin brush, sandpaper and a vacuum cleaner. Before applying the composition, the seams should be treated with sandpaper, and the resulting dust should be removed with a vacuum cleaner. This method allows you to update the color in a matter of hours, however, the effect will be short-lived.

If the seams are deep, and there is at least 2 millimeters to the plane of the tile, a new one is applied over the old layer. To improve the quality of the connection of the layers, the previous one should be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust, as well as increase the roughness with coarse sandpaper. Before applying fresh grout, the joints should be moistened.

The most cardinal option for updating tile joints is to completely replace the grout with your own hands. The previous layer should be removed completely. To do this, it is moistened with a special acid cleaner, which is impregnated with the surface of the joints - after some time, the grout will tighten softer, and it can be removed with a joint expander. You will find this tool in every hardware store - it is a curved, durable handle, at the end of which there is a kind of nail file.

When the old compound is removed, vacuum the seams thoroughly and go over with sandpaper again on the remnants that could not be removed after the first time. Then wash the seams with soapy water to neutralize any remaining acid cleaner. After a day, when the seams are completely dry, you can start sealing them - the instructions above will help you with this.

When the main work of laying the tiles is left behind, you can proceed to its final stage - grouting. This work plays a very important role, because a well-made grout will be able to disguise tile laying defects, if any, and, conversely, a bad grout will completely destroy the impression of an impeccably executed installation. In addition, the empty spaces between the tiles with poor-quality grout blacken over time from fungus and mold. Therefore, it is worth paying special attention to the question of how to grout the seams on the tiles in order to improve the overall appearance coverage and provide additional protection.

Video instruction

What are grout compositions?

Grout for tile joints is of two types:

• cement based;
• epoxy based.

Cement grouts inexpensive and easy to use, and therefore the most popular in home use. They are presented in the form of dry mixes with the addition of modified polymers and are diluted with water or latex before starting work. Modified polymers give the grout material resistance to moisture, and this allows it to be used even on outdoor open areas. Ready-made mixtures are also on sale, which do not require additional preparation, but they are usually much more expensive.

If the joint during installation turned out to be wider than 3 mm, then it is better to purchase cement grout with the addition of sand, and if the joints are smaller, then it is recommended to use ordinary cement-based grout.

Safety Tip: Cement grouts can cause inflammation of the skin, eyes, and lungs. Therefore, when working with these materials, be sure to wear safety glasses, a respirator and rubber gloves.

Epoxy grouts contain epoxy resin and hardener. Such compositions perfectly tolerate mechanical, chemical and thermal effects, they are much more stable and stronger than cement counterparts, but they are also more expensive. They are used mainly in industrial premises. At home, it is reasonable to use such a grout only if the width of the joints between ceramic tiles is more than 6 mm (since it is quite viscous, it will not be able to penetrate narrower joints).

Epoxy grouts are a mixture of 2 components: paste and catalyst, which are mixed immediately before use. The proportions of these two components must be accurate, so you need to use a scale.

What is the best tile grout? Experts recommend buying epoxy grout for ceramic tile joints, as it is more beautiful, stronger and more reliable. It will last up to 50 years, perfectly protecting the cladding from moisture, fungi and bacteria, as well as from exposure to chemical substances. If you still decide to buy a cement-based grout, then it is advisable to buy latex for it.

As for the color of the grout, this is a matter of taste: you can choose the grout according to the main color of the ceramic tile or prefer a classic light tone.

Grout Width

What should be the width of the grout joints? A lot of it depends on personal preference. Some, for example, like narrow seams. Excessively wide seams suppress the tile visually. Square ceramic tiles ranging in size from 10 to 60 cm will look neat with 3 mm joints. wrong shape tiles become less noticeable with wider joints, but no more than 12 mm. A joint with a width of more than 12 mm will become stronger if coarse sand is added to the grout, but even this will not always protect it from cracking.

To the same extent, it is not recommended to make the joints too narrow, since it will not be possible to fill them properly with grout, as a result of which water will be able to seep into the cladding. Good craftsmen know that the quality of the lining will be at a high level with a sufficient width of the joints, when they can be well filled with grout. And this means that the seams will be waterproof, and they will also be able to absorb the deformation of the tiles during expansion or contraction. This ability of seams is reduced many times over with a width of less than 1 millimeter.

Grouting ceramic tiles: how it's done

How to properly grout ceramic tiles? First of all, we check whether the glue is completely dry. Then we carry out a thorough cleaning of the seams from the remnants of glue, dirt and dust, remove the remaining spacers. When working with unglazed tiles, it must be moistened before grouting, otherwise it will draw water from the grout. Glazed tiles do not need to be wetted.

All grouting materials must be kept for some time in the room where grouting will be carried out. The optimum temperature for grouting is 18-25 ° C.

You can see the grouting process in detail in the video below - grouting ceramic tiles video. It consists of the following steps:

• mixing the grout composition;
• maintaining the grout mixture for its better wetting;
• re-mixing grout;
• grout distribution;
• cleaning excess grout.

The grout is mixed with water or latex additives. Dry polymer grouts are mixed exclusively with water. In any case, add such an amount of liquid that the resulting mixture is easily distributed. This is important to remember, because excess liquid will weaken the grout (we adhere to the proportions indicated on the packaging of the material).

The grout is mixed by adding the dry component to the liquid

We mix by gradually adding the dry component to the liquid (at first we pour only three-quarters of the total amount of liquid). After mixing all the dry ingredients with the liquid, add the remaining liquid in small portions, constantly checking the consistency of the grout. Mixing is carried out using a rectangular trowel or an electric mixer. The stirrer must be completely immersed in the solution so that air does not enter the mixture, because air bubbles weaken it.

All components are mixed, most of the lumps are broken. Let the solution stand for 10 minutes to soak. Mix the grout again so that no lumps remain. If it is necessary to prepare several portions of the grout, then you need to be sure that their composition will be identical. Therefore, when mixing new portions, we try to observe the proportions and order of connection of the components, and so that the color of the grout is constant, when mixing the next portion, we add grout from each package to it.

Advice! When purchasing multiple packs of grout, make sure they are all from the same serial number.

The finished grout should have sufficient density so that it is kept in a slide when spreading.

Materials and tools needed for grouting

• Scraper with rubber nozzle
• Grout
• Sponge
• Bucket
• A wooden stick with a pointed end, jointing, or a toothbrush
• Plywood
• net cloth
• paint roller
• Respirator (for working with cement grouts)
• Latex gloves
• Protective glasses

We spread the grout with a slide on the surface of the cladding.

The grout is laid out in a slide on the surface of the tile

To distribute the solution, we use a trowel (respectively for walls or floors). Apply the grout to the tile diagonally, holding the grater at an angle of 30° to it. We try not only to cover the seams with mortar, but also to press it with force into the seams in order to fill them tightly, because their strength depends on the density of filling the seams.

The grout is applied at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile

We do not grout over the entire surface at once. First, we distribute the solution in a small area (no more than 2 square meters) to find out how quickly this grout sets. If it seizes quickly, you need to stop and do the cleaning. Sometimes it is possible to spread the grout over an area of ​​up to 9m2, and only then start cleaning, in other cases it is necessary to cover only small areas and clean them.

The first grout removal is dry.

To do this, use a grater, holding it at right angles to the tiles and moving it diagonally to the grout joints (so that the edge of the tool does not accidentally remove part of the grout from the joint). When the excess is removed, the grout should be allowed to set before cleaning. While grouting and cleaning, do not forget to stir the grout periodically so that it retains its softness before applying to the following areas.

During the grouting process, periodically stir the grout so that it retains its softness.

The second removal of the grout mixture is wet. When should it be started? The time it takes for the grout to fully set before wet cleaning varies greatly. It may take 5 minutes, or it may take 20 minutes or more. The rate of evaporation of moisture from the grout directly depends on the adhesive and tile, the type of substrate, as well as weather conditions.

Wet cleaning of the cladding surface

For wet cleaning, you need a bucket of water and a sponge (it is desirable that the sponge be with rounded edges - this will not form grooves in the seams). With soft circular motions, we remove particles of sand and cement. We act carefully to avoid the formation of grooves in the grout. At a time, we clean only a small area (1-2m2), wetting the sponge often enough to wash off the grout particles that have penetrated into the pores of the tiles. We try to rinse the sponge well and wring it out as hard as possible, shake off excess water from our hands.

At the second stage, we inspect the grout seams so that they are all neat. With the help of jointing, a toothbrush or a wooden stick with a pointed end, we align and smooth the seams.

Line and smooth seams with stitching

Then we trim their edges with a sponge. Ideally, the seams should be even on top, not convex, although most seams become slightly concave afterward, but this is acceptable. It is important that in the end they all turn out to be of the same depth and shape.

The seams are leveled, now it remains to carefully clean the surface of the cladding from the remaining traces of grout. We act carefully so that the sponge does not wipe the grout from the seams. After this cleaning, grout residues must be completely removed from the surface of the tiles. Seams should dry for 15 minutes.

The grout remaining on the surface of the tile is removed with gauze or a soft, clean cloth.

Job done, put the plywood sheet on the floor and don't let anyone walk on the floor until the grout is completely dry. Some grouts take up to two or more weeks to dry (check the drying time in the manufacturer's instructions).