Manufacture of countertops from wood and epoxy resin. Decor items made of wood and epoxy resin

In this article, you will see step by step the application of a technology that combines the use of an innovative material (epoxy resin) and a traditional one (wood). This technology allows you to create truly incredible creations, and wood can potentially be replaced by any other material (fabric, cork, metal, etc.)

1) Once you have chosen the wood that you like best (thickness should be about 2-3 cm), sand the wood with sandpaper. The finer the grit (300-400), the more the surface will be “closed”, reducing resin seepage. And in this way a more natural color of the wood will be preserved. If you use sandpaper with a coarser grit (60-80), then the tone of the wood will be darker (depending on taste!).

2) Saw a piece of wood into several pieces, and then blow the surface of the wood with compressed air to remove dust and sawdust. If this is not possible, then simply brush with a soft brush.

3) Let the tree dry in the sun (or in the cold season, put it closer to the radiator or heater) for 24 to 48 hours. Wood must avoid contact with water for at least 24 hours.

4) Now we are ready to create a masterpiece!

5) Prepare a wooden frame (table shape) 3-4cm in height. It will serve only for protection and form, and after that it will be removed. So don't waste too much time (:

6) Take a sheet of nylon or polyethylene for packing and place it inside the frame so that the edges are as close to the shape as possible. Since the resin does not stick to the polyethylene, it will be easy to remove from the mold after curing. You can also use adhesive tape. The resin will be shaped like nylon, so be precise at this stage! Lay your materials out on a perfectly flat work surface, making sure there are no tears in the nylon (you can use duct tape in this case).

7) Arrange the pieces of wood inside the mold as you like. You can also put stones, pieces of metal, etc. into the mold.

8) Mix a certain amount of resin (A + B) (for example, 300 g) and carefully brush the wood with it from all sides with a brush. Then turn the wood over (using gloves) and continue processing. Be careful to completely saturate the most uneven parts (such as the bark). This operation is needed to “compact” the wood in order to avoid the appearance of bubbles in the resin when the tree is immersed in it. Leave the treated wood in its final position for further pouring, and wait until the resin on the surface has hardened (minimum 8 hours).

9) Prepare the rest of the resin by mixing it thoroughly in a large container. Let her rest for 10-15 minutes.

10) Pour the resin evenly to the desired level. Use a hair dryer (or better, an industrial hair dryer) to remove bubbles from the surface of the resin (bubbles burst when heated). After 24 hours the table is ready to be removed from the mold!

Notes.

Nylon (cellophane) is the most economical solution. But if it is used, there is a chance that the surface of the table will come out irregular due to inefficient tension of the nylon or simple folds. To then smoothen the edges and surface of the table, you can use sandpaper, grinder or saw. Once the uneven parts are removed, the surface will become opaque. But don't worry! Simply apply a thin coat of resin with a brush to restore the surface to its original transparency.

If you want a perfectly perfect table surface, you'll have to buy a Plexiglas mold and use that as a base to pour the resin into. In this case, the manufacturing process itself becomes faster.

resin consumption. If you are making a pure resin table (60x60x4), more than 10kg of resin is needed. But since half the volume of this table is occupied by wood, only about 6 kg is consumed.

What resin to choose?
We advise you to carefully consider the choice epoxy resin, since the quality of the resin determines how long your table made of wood and epoxy will last. The work ahead is serious, and subsequently it will be a pity for all the conditions spent if the quality of the resin is not high enough and in a couple of weeks you will see scratches on the carefully polished surface. We are proud of our resins, which is why we can confidently recommend our “multifunctional” transparent epoxy resin, made in Italy, see its main characteristics here:
By the way, all the tables of the Italian brand Bottega Maestra were made from our high quality transparent epoxy resin, right, beauties?? (www.bottega-maestra.com).

The epoxy resin table is the crowning achievement of the modern furniture industry. For many years now, such tables have been a luxury item that can truly decorate. The editors of the site have worked in this direction, collecting detailed information about what an epoxy table is, what types it is, and how you can make it yourself from improvised materials.

Looking at one or the other building material, you always wonder how good it is, and whether its advantages really outweigh all the disadvantages. The positive qualities of epoxy resin are as follows:

increased strength to mechanical damage and moisture resistance;
long service life;
ease of care;
the possibility of implementing various design solutions;
availability for independent work- only a little skill and knowledge of a certain technology is required;
low cost - epoxy resin for pouring countertops is relatively inexpensive, if we consider it on a par with, solid wood or. And by quality characteristics they are in no way inferior.

Epoxy resin is not an ideal material in every sense. Products from it also have disadvantages:

sensitivity to processing by any abrasive compounds - remain unpleasant;
improperly prepared resin can subsequently disrupt the quality of the final product;
some types of epoxy resins are not resistant to ultraviolet radiation and eventually begin to give off yellowness;
release of toxins. They begin to be released into the atmosphere only upon prolonged contact with high temperatures, so you should not be afraid to put a hot dish or cup on an epoxy table. But soldering on such countertops or burning them is highly discouraged.

Note! Epoxy resin does not ignite or melt even when in contact with an open flame. But it will poison the air pretty much.

Types of epoxy resin tables and their features

Looking closely at buying an epoxy resin table and considering the prices, you come to the conclusion: in fact, they are all similar to each other. And such products can be divided into several groups.

Epoxy resin countertops without backing

The epoxy table top is a separately manufactured element that can become both part of the table and in.

You can simply buy an epoxy resin countertop and install it on your support base. It remains only to choose right size and advantageous design.

Epoxy resin, wood and other supporting elements

Epoxy resin countertops are also made on any supporting structures. Most often it is a base made of metal, plastic or solid wood. Someone manages to adapt the bases from old stools and as a support for countertops.

As a rule, for greater reliability, craftsmen do supporting elements and countertop as a single unit, pouring epoxy directly on them into a pre-installed formwork.

Wooden table with additional filling and epoxy resin

Tables made of wooden elements and epoxy are incredibly popular today. At the same time, there is nothing extraordinary in many designer models - just beautiful (sometimes ugly beautiful) pieces of wood, whole wooden arrays filled with resin. For example, like the tables made of wood and epoxy in the photo below.

In such interesting tables other decoration elements can be added: phosphorus for a night glow, sea pebbles, glass, sparkles, shells - only the imagination of the creators will be the limitation here.

Note! Light objects must be glued to the base, otherwise they will float when pouring!

Table made of slab and epoxy resin - style and incredible beauty

Making tables from wood, or rather from slab and epoxy resin, is the trend of the season. First of all, because the slab - saw cut wood - has a unique texture, shape and pattern. It's like fingerprints: there are no identical cuts, each one is unique in its own way. Therefore, products made from them are highly valued by both aesthetes and manufacturers.

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Making such a table or countertop yourself is not so difficult. You just need to choose the right slab and fill it with a transparent or colored epoxy resin.

Epoxy resin river table

A table made of liquid glass and wood, the so-called "river", deserves special attention. In fact, these are two slabs, between which a blue epoxy is poured, perfectly imitating the waters of a clean river. Some models also have, completely covering the entire surface. Here, as they say, the taste and color.

Some craftsmen add phosphorus to the epoxy, which turns such a table into a kind of night light. Tabletops with the so-called multi-stage slab look especially interesting, giving mystery and depth. You can also buy tables with fish, reefs and entire marine colonies inside epoxy filler. But such products are rare. It's easier to make such beauty yourself.

Related article:

: properties, composition, characteristics, selection of the right components and options for using different solvents and plasticizers, instructions for use and an overview of current prices - read in the publication.

If you decide to buy a table made of wood and epoxy resin: we focus on a review of prices and basic quality criteria

Eh, to love - so the queen, to steal - so a million, to buy a table - so from epoxy! If you are an adherent of just such views, then pay attention to the small nuances when choosing such furniture, so that later you do not complain about armless craftsmen.

It should be noted right away that any epoxy furniture is handmade. Therefore, the risk of marriage is great. Still, the human factor in the manufacture of such furniture plays a decisive role. What should be a quality epoxy table:

no chips, cracks, abrasions and other defects - even the smallest ones. We are not shy and look under the countertop;
we look at the thickness of the countertop - it should be the same on all sides. No slopes and distortions;
we carefully look at the epoxy - no bubbles, no matter how the seller explains that this is all as it should be for greater decorativeness. Air bubbles in the hardened epoxy resin are a sign of the wrong technology for working with it, this drastically reduces the quality of the final product;
you need glass on the surface or not - you decide. Keep in mind that the glass on the countertop is the most short-lived element, unlike epoxy and wood.

As already noted, epoxy resin tables are handmade. And that means that such an exclusive will cost a lot. For example, small coffee tables can be bought in the price range from 11,000 to 30,000 rubles - or more. Dining and office tables cost from 50,000 rubles - it all depends on the model and prices of the master. The prices shown are current as of September 2018.

Epoxy table manufacturing technology

For those whose hands itch to make their own epoxy table, we will show you how to do it correctly and inexpensively.

How to choose an epoxy resin for a table - reviews and recommendations

After reviewing a bunch of videos about how easy and simple it is to work with epoxy resin, you just want to make a tabletop with your own hands. Just from what? For a beginner in this field, the choice of epoxy can be confusing. What types and brands do not exist!

"ED-20"- one of the popular and inexpensive resins used both for pouring furniture and for decorations. Popularity deserved by its low cost. This plus is balanced by a minus - the yellowness of products. Of course, yellowness is not acquired immediately, but over time, and only if the poured resin was exposed to direct sunlight. It is also characterized by increased ductility, which is not good when working with resin, especially for beginners. To solve such problems, you can purchase an epoxy plasticizer - for example, EpoxyMax DBP.

Feedback on the plasticizer for epoxy resin DBP EpoxyMax:

Read more on Otzovik: https://otzovik.com/review_4632884.html .

"Art-Eco"- crystal clear and transparent resin, designed to work with products of small thickness, including countertops. When working, it is recommended to use hardeners. Of the negative points, yellowness is noted on transparent products in direct sunlight. This disadvantage is eliminated by the use of dyes, which can also be purchased from this manufacturer.

"QTP-1130" – perfect option for pouring tables and countertops, provided that the thickness of the epoxy layer is no more than 3 mm. It is easy to work with it - no additional plasticizers and hardeners are needed. It has self-leveling, which is very convenient for beginners.

"EP-SM-PRO"- inexpensive composite epoxy resin. Good for working with wood. It mixes uniformly, practically no bubbles appear, transparency is good, it solidifies to the end and relatively quickly. It has a liquid consistency, which must be taken into account when forming the formwork - it can leak even through small cracks.

Feedback on working with epoxy resin Composite project EP-SM-PRO:

Read more on Otzovik: https://otzovik.com/review_6214951.html

PEO-610KE, EpoxyMaster 2.0, EpoxAcast 690. Products made from these resins are not afraid and have crystal transparency. It is pleasant to work with such compositions - they are not viscous, they quickly and completely freeze, they have a slight tendency to self-leveling.

"ArtLine Crystal Epoxy"– suitable for working both with jewelry and for filling small thickness tables. Liquid, transparent, well leveled with a spatula. Products are transparent and without distortion. Bubbles practically do not form and are easily removed. It does not have a very good reaction with some types of dried flowers. If you work with just such a filling, determine in advance whether there is a conflict between the epoxy and the herbarium. Feedback on the use of a similar epoxy resin is below.

Feedback on the use of epoxy resin "ArtLine Crystal Epoxy":

Read more on Otzovik: https://otzovik.com/review_6603877.html

"MG-EPOX-STRONG"- epoxy resin for universal purposes, more recommended for pouring countertops and tables. It has excellent quality and operational characteristics. It's a pleasure to work with her. Suitable for pouring thick tables and for working with various fillers - from weightless phosphorus to heavy pebbles and coins. At the same time, there is no yellowness, high mechanical strength and resistance to high temperatures.

A drawing is made, according to which the supporting structure, formwork and fillers, if any, are worked out in detail.
Depending on the type of epoxy resin chosen, the consistency and appropriate dilution proportions are selected for further work.

Note! Some compositions are not diluted, you can work with them almost immediately - and this leads to an increase in the cost of the final product.

Manufacturing of the supporting structure

In our small master class, we will look at how you can make simple materials available to everyone, resulting in designer furniture.

Illustration	Action Description
	You will need: two circles of wood, which will act as a stand, glue, preferably epoxy-based, a thick furniture border, epoxy itself and filler - beer caps. In our master class, a purchased design was used.
	Assembling the base structure. Thoroughly degrease the surface and primer.

Formwork preparation and filling

We make the first fitting - we lay out the filler around the perimeter of the countertop in order to understand how thick the furniture tape should be glued.

Illustration	Action Description
	It all depends on the thickness of the decor, it is necessary that it be buried in epoxy by at least half.
	We carefully glue the tape on the table top, as this is not just a formwork, but part of our table.
	We lay out the decor on the countertop exactly as it will look in the final edition. We remember the location and remove everything.
	We take glue and apply it to the back of the lid.
	Glue all the covers to the countertop. We do this carefully, since each smudge of glue will be visible on a transparent surface.

Epoxy preparation

How to prepare epoxy resin - the instructions on the package will tell you. In our case, we used Epoxy Master 2.0. This is a two-component composition. If you need to add colors, add color only to component "A" until you get the desired shade. Mix thoroughly.

Note! In order for the pigment to dissolve better, put it for some time in a battery or in a water bath, the temperature of which will not be more than 40 ° C, but not less than 30 ° C. If the resin overheats, it can be thrown away.

Add component "B" - hardener, in a ratio of 100:35, as indicated in the instructions. Mix thoroughly. If bubbles suddenly form, then the resin can be heated with a hair dryer, while stirring until they evaporate. The shelf life of the resulting solution is approximately 7 hours.

How to pour epoxy on a countertop

The most important stage of work is pouring with resin. The most important thing here is to follow the instructions exactly. The diluted composition is carefully poured from the middle. Under the weight of its gravity, it will begin to level out. If the tabletop area is large, then expand the fill radius. When the entire volume to the edges of the formwork is filled, we carefully level the epoxy resin with a trowel. If the surface is not equal to the thickness of the formwork, add the missing grams as carefully as possible and level again. We leave our countertop to solidify to the end.

In principle, we got the final product, which you can use for your own pleasure. The use of Epoxy Master 2.0 does not imply final polishing of the product. But if you still need it, we recommend watching a video on how to make an epoxy resin table with your own hands.

Epoxy resin, although harmless in a solidified state, can cause irritation of the skin and mucous membranes in the working state. Therefore, we work with it only in rubber gloves. good quality– without the risk of sudden breaches. Such gloves will need to be discarded immediately after one pouring session.

Also, do not forget about glasses, a respirator. The latter may not be worn - it all depends on the type of epoxy used. Read the instructions carefully before buying. We also cover all parts of the body with clothes - no open skin. Be sure to work with epoxy only in well-ventilated areas where you and your household do not sleep and are not in a row for more than 5 hours. If the curing time of the resin is more than 3 days, dust and organic filters must be purchased.

Material Features

Two-component epoxy countertop potting, includes hardener and resin. After hardening, the substance does not decrease in volume and is not covered with cracks, perfectly fills small irregularities. The material is resistant to moisture, it cannot be scratched, but when exposed high temperature melts.

Usually epoxy is an expensive material, but it turns out to be cheap when compared with analogues for treating surfaces with an increased load on abrasion, moisture and mechanical damage. Price epoxy potting as of 2018, it varies between 200 and 800 rubles per kilogram, the wholesale price will be even lower, 180-190 rubles.

When the countertop is filled with epoxy, the wood is stabilized: its pores are filled with resin. As a result, the tree becomes invulnerable to ultraviolet radiation, solvents, and organic matter.

In addition to operational, epoxy resin also has decorative advantages. With its help, patterns, decorations, imitations are created. For example, a table with a flowing river pattern. Epoxy paints beautifully, and it also allows you to create various shapes (the thicker the consistency, the easier), although this applies more to the adhesive than to the pour.

Advantages of epoxy resin countertops:

After drying, the substance does not shrink.
After hardening, the surface becomes perfectly smooth, like glass.
Resistant to mechanical damage (dents, chips, cuts).
Resistant to moisture and aggressive cleaning agents household chemicals therefore does not need a special selection of methods of care.
Under the influence of ultraviolet rays is not destroyed.
Looks impressive.

Epoxy resin for pouring countertops has its drawbacks:

To do high-quality filling, exact observance of the proportions of the components will be required.
It is necessary to work, observing the safety rules as strictly as possible.
A sharp drop in temperature will lead to the appearance of white flaky inclusions in the deep layers.
With strong heating, the material will release substances toxic to the human body.

Advice! Dealing with the last two shortcomings is very simple. To remove the white flakes that have appeared, heat the countertop to + 50-60˚ C. And so that no toxins are released during heating, cover the countertop with an additional protective transparent varnish.

There are several types of countertops made using epoxy:

Made entirely of resin, without support. This type is most often found in the manufacture of coffee or coffee tables for which significant loads are not planned.
Made from board and covered with epoxy as a protective layer. The role of the base can be played by a board made of any material: solid wood, multiplex, paneled surface, fiberboard, chipboard, OSB, etc. Before pouring, such countertops are often decorated (with prints, screen painting, paper elements, decoupage, mosaics, flowers, coins, shells - whatever).
Combined, when the resin alternates with fragments of another material, most often wood.

The base can have any shape (square, rounded), it is important to make the sides of the required height so that after the pour has solidified, the side surfaces of the tabletop are smooth and even.

Advice! When choosing a material for decorating a countertop, remember that the more embossed the decorations, the thicker the filling layer will have to be made to dry out, it will take longer.

Brand overview

There are several popular varieties of epoxy resin that craftsmen use to create countertops:

QTP-1130 perfect for creating a transparent tabletop for writing or coffee table if the fill layer is not thicker than three millimeters. Resin differs in special transparency and ability to self-leveling.
"Art-Eco" is most suitable for making thin layers, especially when a sufficient amount of hardener is added. In addition, this manufacturer produces excellent colors that allow you to give the epoxy any shade. Reviews about "Art-Eco" on the forums are different, there are good and bad. Of the negative points, the appearance of a yellowish tint in the light and hardening is not completely mentioned.

"ED-20"- the main disadvantage is the increased viscosity of the substance, due to which it is very problematic to remove air bubbles from the mass. After some time, the ED-20 countertop loses its transparency and becomes yellowish. Master forums are full negative feedback about this material, the only advantage of which is its low cost.
CHS Epoxy 520 (hardener 921OP) is suitable for working with complex fillers (herbarium, coins, caps) and is the best and most demanded material for the manufacture of countertops.
- it is fluid, and therefore ideal for creating layers of small thickness and for working with fillers (coins, caps, flowers and grass), transparent.

PEO-610KE- resin Russian production, does not turn yellow over time in direct sunlight and under the influence of heat.
EpoxAcast 690 - when hardened, it will not turn yellow, even if it is exposed to direct sunlight or near heating appliances.
MG-EPOX-STRONG from company Epox is a popular and good quality product. On the forums, some recommend pouring the countertop exclusively with this resin.
Epoxy CR 100 - excellent chemical resistance, wear resistance, antistatic.
- has strength, resistance to direct sunlight and water, is used in the manufacture of jewelry, pouring glossy coatings and 3D floors, creating decorative products.

Advice! When working with use one part hardener to two parts resin.

The quality of the fill will be different depending on the expiration date, there are fakes, and in some cases factory defects.

As a rule, epoxy and solvent are mixed immediately before pouring in a ratio of 2:1.

In order for a do-it-yourself epoxy resin countertop to turn out to be a real work of art, you should take into account a few recommendations from professionals:

the resin will harden faster in a warm room;
in order to avoid deformation, it is impossible to heat the surface from above;
next to a fire or under direct sunlight, the resin in the solid state begins to turn yellow;
Do not mix hardener with resin high speed- otherwise bubbles and subsequently voids will appear;
if bubbles remain in the layer after leveling, walk over the tabletop with a burner, the bubbles will come out - do not linger on the flame over one place;
the hardened substance exfoliates under the influence of strong cold;
it is imperative to cover the countertop with a protective varnish, otherwise, when heated, the resin will release toxins;
if during the pouring process uncured areas or spots appear, this indicates an uneven mixing of the hardener with the resin due to the substance sticking to the walls of the container;
to prevent uneven distribution of the components, pour the mixture for filling from one container to another several times while thoroughly mixing with a thick mixer, spatula or spatula. Try not to bring the tool to the surface of the mass, otherwise air bubbles are likely to appear.

Often, epoxy resin for pouring countertops speaks negatively. As a rule, problems arise when the rules for working with it are violated. Follow the proportions, take into account the advice of professionals, and the work will give an excellent result.

Today I will show one of the most common applications of epoxy resin - filling cracks in workpieces.

Indeed, in most cases, due to cracks, we immediately reject such material. We do not use it for further work. Using the example of such a cracked pruning of a pine beam, a DIY master will demonstrate how this problem can be fixed.

Moreover, not just fix, but even give the future product a more interesting look and uniqueness.

Let's get started.

For work we need:
1. Pine timber with a crack;
2. Bulgarian (it is better to use a chain saw);
3. Disc grinder;
4. Epoxy resin;
5. Kohler;
6. Glue for wood;
7. Adhesive tape;
8. Tung oil;
9. Lathe;
10. Priming oil;
11. Sandpaper;
12. Ruler and pencil.

First you need to decide on the size of future products.

The master measures the required size, marks and cuts off a piece of timber. With this part of the pine we will continue to work further.
To achieve a more interesting effect, the cracks on this bar need to be slightly expanded in a chaotic manner. Then clean from the darkened layer of wood, which usually does not look very cool under the resin. The author firmly fixes the wooden blank in a vise and slowly begins to give it additional “flaws”.

Accordingly, we perform such an operation on both sides of the beam.

To saw through new and expand existing cracks on the timber, the master uses a grinder. In general, for such processing of cracks, probably, a chain saw would be much better suited. In principle, she can work with wood like a sculptor with plaster. But if you do not have such a tool (like the author), then you have to be content with a three-tooth disk for a grinder. In general, it turned out not bad.

Preparing to pour resin.
When sealing the workpiece, which the master usually produces with thin MDF, it is better to initially glue the adhesive tape so that the MDF glue does not get into the fill cavity. The author glues a piece of MDF on both sides of the bar. Then it pulls the whole thing together for a stronger bond.

This is what happened after the glue dried.

Epoxy is extremely fluid, so the sealing process must be taken seriously.
There are very few subtleties during the filling itself. Since the volume of resin is quite small, therefore, you should not worry too much about the conditions. However, if micro air bubbles are not needed in the casting, which in any case will highlight the pores of the wood, you can thoroughly prime the whole thing with a thin layer of the same resin, and set this layer aside for several hours.

The mixing and tinting process for artline crystal resin is basically the same as for most epoxy resins. One has only to remember about the proportions and follow the manufacturer's recommendations. The proportions are as follows: 2 parts resin to one part hardener (2:1). The author uses scales to more accurately determine the required amount of each component of the epoxy adhesive.

Next, add color and mix the resin thoroughly.

Fill.
This workpiece will have to be poured in two passes, since only after the first casting has hardened, it will be possible to turn the workpiece over and pour the epoxy on the reverse side.

Of course, you can apply various tinting options from different sides of the product, or even refuse it altogether, because the resin is very transparent after solidification and this can also be a kind of product feature. But still, with the addition of bright colors, rather banal wood still becomes much more lively and interesting. So the field for experiments here is completely endless.

It is very profitable to use pine, rich in structure, for turning such products, because you can find rather large monolithic blanks, which is very much appreciated in turning. At almost any sawmill, you can order a bar of any section, dissolve it into blanks and leave them to crack to an acceptable moisture content. Then fill it all up and put it to work. Thus, you can save a lot on raw materials. Of course, it is desirable to find good tree without fungus and other defects. Then it will become an excellent material for work and creativity. Much to our regret, in middle lane Russia has quite serious problems with this. Whole scaffolding very poor quality, but still, some elements can always be beaten, and vice versa, defects in wood can be presented as pluses, for some kind of zest in products. Again, you can remove all these flaws in the same way and also fill with resin, for example.

Now we will process the workpiece with tung oil.

As a result, we get this:

Now let's make another such plate.

Resin in a lathe is like putty in carpentry, only it is also an ornament. The only thing, of course, products using epoxy resin are already becoming purely decorative. That is, eating from the same cups, plates, dishes and other things with the use of resin is no longer worth it. Although, to be honest, I have no idea how it could be used for its intended purpose. I understand that this is purely decorative. But nevertheless, sometimes people ask about it and you have to explain it to everyone.

I also want to remind you that while working with resin, while turning or grinding these products, a lot of dust is released, which is quite light. It can stand in the air for a long time, so using respiratory protection is a must. Although you need to protect your breath in principle during any work with wood, it is also desirable to clean all these sawdust and dust, of course, every time after work.

The author did not bore the first workpiece deeply from the inside, because out of habit he made a small ledge under the cartridge, which for soft wood could lead to the loss of the workpiece during turning. Therefore, at the time of the sprouts of the second blank, the master has already applied the lunette. And not so much for centering the workpiece, but for pressing it against the chuck.

The shape of the product here turned out to be just advantageous, and the rubber wheels of the lunette did not allow the workpiece to fly off the cartridge, because it is necessary to fix the workpiece from pine very gently, due to the same softness of this type of wood.

Again, the steady can be worked much faster, removing more material in one pass. Of course, after dismantling the lunette, the outer surface of the workpiece will need to be sanded a little, because, whatever one may say, the wheels from it leave a trace. But this is not the worst, compared to what without it. The workpiece can simply be lost, or the same ledge will crack.

During the internal boring of the second workpiece, as planned, we managed to get to the lower resin casting, which of course already gave the product a more logically finished look.

Also, continuing the experiments, the author has already decided to cover the second blank with tinted oil, which also betrays the pine structure even more expressiveness. The only thing, as usual, tinted oil immediately showed all the small jambs of polishing the product. So with such coatings, you can always check your grinding quality.

Epoxy resin is a popular creative material. With its help, you can make jewelry with your own hands - earrings, pendants, other jewelry. Epoxy furniture will be no less beautiful: it goes well with wood, wood shavings and sawdust, cuts of stumps and twigs.

Products made of epoxy resin and wood will decorate any interior, besides, the price of such an exclusive is very high, and you can earn money on it.

Material Application

Resin uses are varied. It finds application in most major industries:

electronics;
aviation;
machine manufacturing;
equipment repair;
shipbuilding;
building;
production of fiberglass;
pouring floors;
production of glue, putty, grout;
production of paints and varnishes.

You can work with epoxy at home. It is ideal for the manufacture and processing of furniture from natural wood and its derivatives, slab. With the help of pouring, you can make an original stool, chair or table, cabinet doors. Souvenirs, jewelry, watches, figurines, cutting boards and products for the kitchen, bathroom, vases, tambourines and other toys for children.

Different types and states of glue

On sale there are different brands of epoxy resin - domestic and imported. Most of them are suitable for making furniture. It is only important to decide whether colored or transparent resin is needed for decoration. Usually, in order to see beautiful cuts of wood and its fibers, they acquire transparent compositions. For example, high-quality resin YD-128 is colorless and transparent, like glass. Epoxy MG-Epox-Strong also has no complaints about transparency, even suitable for creating jewelry. By the way, such resins can be combined with colored ones - make bright blotches inside the bulk.

These materials are two-component adhesives. The liquid resin is stabilized by adding a hardener, which is included in the second bottle. It will not work to fill furniture parts with thick pastes in molds, so you should not buy them.

There are 5 basic resin states:

liquid - this is a material without a hardener or immediately after its introduction, it has excellent fluidity;
honey-like - resembles molasses, already slightly thickened resin, which is best used for layer-by-layer pouring of crafts;
thick - fluidity is sharply reduced, the mass does not pour well and is suitable only for gluing parts or putty;
rubbery - epoxy resembles rubber or hardened plasticine, sticky, but can change shape;
solid - fully cured resin.

Differences between resin and glue

In master classes for pouring wood products, you need to use epoxy resin, but not glue based on it. Main material differences:

the curing time of the adhesive cannot be changed, and the freezing rate of the resin can be increased or slowed down;
the glue turns yellow, the resin remains transparent;
the glue has low elasticity, while the resin is malleable, allowing you to carry out the work necessary for the master;
glue is used to join parts, it will not be possible to fill them with products, almost any figures can be made from resin.

Pros and cons of epoxy resin for wood

Previously, epoxy was used as an adhesive for various parts, it was almost never used in creativity. Later, floors were poured with this material, noting its low abrasion, high strength and durability. Now resins with dyes or in their pure form are widely used to create unique products for the home. The advantages of epoxy for wood are as follows:

the mass can be given any shape - it flows, fills the smallest pits, depressions and cracks;
the frozen product is easy to grind and polish, holes can be drilled in it, grooves can be sharpened;
Epoxy is on sale. different colors, but even transparent resin can be given any shade by introducing a dye;
since the composition does not shrink, the furniture will retain its attractiveness for a long time.

The tool also has its downsides. So, it is necessary to strictly observe the proportions of resin and hardener, otherwise the mass can be irrevocably spoiled. The price of resin is high, especially for transparent brands. The cost of large products will be large. Another disadvantage is the toxicity of epoxy. During work, you will have to use a respirator, gloves, goggles, and ventilate the room well. After hardening, the composition is safe.

Features of working with epoxy

Wood is heterogeneous in structure, therefore air can accumulate inside its parts, around which a vacuum is formed. After a change in temperature, the material expands or contracts, therefore, until the moment of complete solidification, air bubbles often appear on the surface that have come out of the internal cavities of the wood.

To avoid defects, it is necessary to stabilize the temperature in the room for 2-3 hours after pouring the epoxy. It is advisable not to work outside or choose a time in the afternoon when the sun is not so hot. If you intend to perform a thick layer of epoxy, it is better to divide the work into 2 stages. The risk of bubbles in thin layers is lower.

Impregnation of wood with epoxy

For high-quality impregnation of wood with an epoxy composition, on the contrary, the base is heated. After expanding the pores of the wood, they will perfectly absorb the mass, which will also become very liquid upon contact with a hot surface. After the impregnated wood has hardened, it is covered on top with a finishing layer. When drying, you will again have to control the temperature so that air does not come to the surface.

Elimination of air bubbles

It happens that bubbles still appear on the top of the fill. It is not necessary to heat the product, this can cause the formation of new bubbles. It is better to use a thin needle, piercing the air "balloons". Another option for removing them is to spray the resin with alcohol from a spray bottle. Although in this case there is a risk of changing the color or degree of transparency of the mass. Large bubbles are removed after the resin has solidified. They are drilled, cleaned, degreased and poured again.

Resin use - design options

For combination with wood, transparent resins for optical castings are ideal. Through them, any designer “things” will be noticeable - crumbs, sawdust, metal elements. If it is decided to add color, it is better to buy it from the same brand so that there are no problems with mixing.

Colored masses are usually cloudy, and they are not used for the main fill. But it looks beautiful filling the pores of the tree with a colored composition, voids from knots, bark beetles. For example, a shelf or bar counter will be unique, in which the cracks are painted with resin with luminescent dyes. Then the furniture will glow on its own.

There are other interesting design tricks as well. So, when adding a drop of water to the resin, milk stains will be obtained. They also make beautiful blotches in colored epoxy with drops.

Cut furniture

Furniture resembling a piece of jewelry looks unusual - its details are cut. For example, a beautiful stump is enclosed in a transparent cube, ground, polished and given clear edges. The product can be used as a table, chair, and simply installed as an element of the interior.

Solid board table

For creating designer table apply the technique of coloring grooves and holes that you can do yourself. Any type of wood will do. You can take a single piece or make a countertop from glued strips. To prevent the colored resin from flowing out, with inside boards are sealed with paper tape, which is removed after curing. The hardened resin is ground, then varnished.

Filling table

This method of creating furniture is more complex. Thick glass or plywood is used as a base for decor, which is shaped into a future table. Light decorative elements must be glued, because they can float. Next, they make a side that will hold the epoxy on the base. It is neatly nailed with furniture nails.

The substrate must be dry before pouring. Wood pores are treated with an epoxy primer. At one time, fill no more than 1 cm thick. Large pieces of wood, stones will have to be hidden in the resin several times, doing the work in layers. Each stage is carried out two days after the previous one. You can use the table only after 7 days, after the same period it is ground and polished if necessary. It is advisable to varnish the filling tables - this will reduce the risk of minor defects.

Shelves

Boards are used to create luminous or ordinary shelves. right size. Areas affected by mold, fungus are removed using a hand tool. Next, the resin is mixed with the dye, choosing the desired color. On the reverse side, the board is sealed with adhesive tape, and the pores are filled with a coloring compound. After drying, a layer of transparent resin is applied. At the end of the work, the surface is varnished.

Table with map inside

Such a table is made in the same way, only a cut of a tree trunk with many cracks, divorces, branches is selected. Holes are drilled imitating a map of the world - seas, oceans. After that, the product is poured, coloring the resin in the desired tones.

Ice in the house

A bar counter or countertop can be made to look like a block of ice. Such plates are cast in molds, making "cracks" of colored resin inside. The use of such a product in the interior will be a unique design technique.

LED lamp made of wood and epoxy

From epoxy resin, you can even make your own nightlights and lamps. In such a device, a diode lamp is attached to the bottom of the frame; it also serves as a stand. The order of work is as follows:

From pieces of chipboard, assemble a box 33x20 cm with strict observance of 90-degree angles, it will serve as a mold for pouring.
Put the box on a flat base, tighten it with clamps, seal the cracks with sealant.
Dilute the dark-colored resin, pour it in a thin layer.
After curing, lay a piece of wood with the bark inside, decorate with decor (for example, dry moss).
Pour transparent resin on top (thickness 3 cm).
Let the product dry.
Attach it to the lamp.

resin jewelry

For self-manufacturing rings, key chains, pendants, earrings and other jewelry, you need to purchase suitable casting molds - silicone molds. You will also need a high quality transparent resin, decor - rhinestones, glitter, beads, sequins.

Dried flower decorations

To make such jewelry, you need to prepare the flowers in advance. Forget-me-not, veronica, heather, small roses or individual petals, buds look beautiful. Stencils of the desired shape are drawn on paper, laid out on a clean, film-covered surface. From above, the stencils are covered with multifors.

The finished diluted resin begins to be applied directly to the multifora, carefully distributing according to the stencil, using wooden stick until a height of 2-3 cm is reached. Then the mass is covered with a dome shape from above - this option is ideal for making earrings, pendants. A day later, the blanks are removed from the multifora, the dome is removed, and they are well polished. The work is repeated, only dried flowers are laid inside the workpiece. Both halves are then glued together.

Bracelets

To work, you will need special molds for bracelets, resin, a mixing container, a stick and any decor. The filler is laid out in a dry form, the resin is carefully poured (in a thin stream). Straighten the decor with a toothpick, pierce air bubbles. Allow the workpiece to harden (24 hours), then grind it, removing it from the mold. To add gloss, the bracelet is varnished.

Colored resin products

Any jewelry can be made not only from transparent, but also from colored epoxy. On sale there are dyes of all colors of the rainbow, luminescent and fluorescent colors. The work of pouring jewelry will be similar, only the resin is pre-stained with dry pigment. Knead it gently, strictly in a circle so that air bubbles do not appear. The blanks are covered with lids so that dust does not get on them.

Some people prefer to pour whole bars, after cutting out sets of jewelry from them. By the way, when decorating them, it is quite possible to use a tree - tiny knots, twigs, sawdust. This will give the jewelry uniqueness and originality, allowing you to create a real author's accessory.