Connecting light through a switch. Installing a single-gang switch

The simplest device for directly turning on the light in a room is a single-button switch. Its installation will not be difficult for a technically savvy person, if you follow the recommendations below.

To designate the planned channels for wiring, you need to know the principle of mounting the switch. The scheme of its connection is not particularly difficult. The first and main rule: a single-gang switch must interrupt the phase wire (usually brown or white). This is done for safety reasons, so that once again there is no electric shock.

Usually for ceiling lighting grounding is not used, but the grounding wire is indicated on the diagram. The fact is that according to the rules of electrical safety, this type of wiring is needed for wet rooms, but apartments are not. However, it will not be superfluous to use a three-core cable with a ground wire for the installation of lighting in dry rooms.

Having studied the installation diagram, we draw the cable laying lines of the most convenient way and start getting ready to work.

Step-by-step instructions for connecting a single-gang switch

Consider first the case with cables hidden in the wall without grounding. It is necessary to remember the main safety rule when installing any type of electrical wiring - all work is carried out with the voltage turned off. That is, when starting to act, turn off the machine in the shield in order to save your own life and health.

Necessary tools and materials

It is clear that first of all you need to stock up on a cable. Its required length can be determined by measuring the drawn lines of electrical wiring with a tape measure. For lighting, a wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm 2 is used. In addition to the cable, you need to prepare:

• switch;
• lamp;
• electrical tape;
• standard glass (socket box) for a device built into the wall.

From the tools you will need the following:

• perforator with a channel blade;
• screwdrivers flat and Phillips;
• tester-probe;
• pliers with insulated handles for safety;
• knife;
• crown for concrete with a diameter of a glass (6.8 cm);
• spatula and putty.

Preparatory work

Suppose there are no electrical wires for lighting the room. First you need to decide where you can pick them up. It is enough to find an electrical box upstairs under the ceiling, in which the apartment's cabling is hidden. Usually it is closed with a round plastic cover, the latter can be easily removed if you pry it off with a screwdriver.

If the house is old enough, the junction box will most likely contain twists of aluminum wires wrapped with black cloth tape

Next, you need to determine the position of the future switch and find the center of the ceiling of the room. The luminaire will be placed at the last specified point. In general, if there are no appropriate cables in the ceiling, they must be run. To do this, you need to find the wires coming from the shield in the entrance in the electrical box.

To find a power line with a phase coming from the general network of the house, you need to use the help of a partner. The latter should go out into the entrance and turn off in turn each of the machines that feed the electrical wiring of the apartment. At this time, the second person determines with a probe whether the electric current has disappeared in the network. When you touch the tip of a tester screwdriver to a bare wire with brown insulation, the indicator light should disappear. Usually a thick cable comes out of the entrance, and you need to start checking from it.

The installation location of the switch is selected based on the convenience of pressing its key. That is, it is enough to choose a small height from 1 to 1.5 m from the floor and retreat from the door jamb some small distance (from 1 to 40 cm). The middle of the room can be determined using a tape measure, measuring the length and width of the room and dividing them in half. When the indicated places are determined, you need to draw an imaginary line for laying the cable on the wall and ceiling with a pencil.

Sequence of cabling and connecting devices

We will make a channel for the cable with a puncher if the wiring is hidden. If an external network is planned, then this power tool will not be needed, but plastic cable channels will be needed.

1. We begin to punch channels for cables with a puncher, focusing on the drawn lines . To do this, we fill a special blade into the puncher and turn on the chiseling mode. Carefully go through the entire required length. The depth of the channel should be such that the cable then drowns completely, and there is still 2 - 3 mm left for putty (sealing the channel).
   

   With the help of a spatula inserted into the puncher, straight recesses (strobes) are made in the wall strictly along the marked cable installation lines

2. We lay the cables according to the scheme. We bring two wires to the switch from the box. One of the cores - phase, brown or white - will go to the switch, the second is not needed. We bring another similar cable from the box to the lamp, here we use only “zero”. Finally, we remove another cable with a phase wire from the chandelier. He must come to the switch.

   A cable is laid in the strobes made and fastened at several points with plastic clips

3. We make a recess for the switch using a concrete crown. Here the hammer must be switched to the mode of simultaneous drilling and chiselling.

   The required seat is drilled using a drill bit of the appropriate diameter.

4. We close the channels with putty using a spatula. This process is not difficult in itself. It can be done even without any experience finishing works. The main thing is accuracy. At the same time, we insert the glass and also grease the place of its fastening with putty. In this case, the protruding piece of cable must be inserted into a special hole on the glass.

   All channels made in the wall, including the place for the installation of the socket box, are covered with putty, and the cable under the switch is led out through the socket box

5. We open the packaging of the new switch. Initially, pry off the key with a slotted screwdriver and remove it. Remove the switch cover.

   After removing the cladding panel, access to the switch mechanism will appear.

6. We expose the ends of the wires in the socket of the socket. A single-gang switch has two inputs. We insert the stripped segments of the phase lines into them.

   When connecting the switch, the order of the wires does not matter

7. Install the switch itself. After tightening the bolts on the wire contacts, we insert the device into the glass, deepening flush with the wall, and tighten the side screws with a screwdriver. When tightening the latter, the antennae extend, which fix the switch in the glass.

   The switch mechanism is attached to the socket with two bolts along the edges of the metal support

8. We assemble the switch: we fix the facing panel and insert the key into place with our fingers. The process is over.

   On the established mechanism the facing panel is put on, and then the switch key is inserted

There are also types of switches that do not have bolts on the contacts. In this case, the stripped ends of the wires simply need to be inserted into the appropriate inputs, and the wires themselves will be fixed by an automatic clamp. If you need to remove the ends back, you need to stick the tip of a slotted screwdriver into a special groove and wring out the mechanism.

If, when laying the cable in the channel made, it is not fixed, then special dowels must be purchased. They look like this: at one end there is a ring for the cable, at the other - a regular rod. Next, you need to drill several holes along the channel with a puncher and insert the specified dowels, fixing the cable with their help.

To fix the cable in the strobe, you can use dowels with a special clip

With open wiring, everything is much easier. A puncher is not needed. It is enough to lay the cable along the outer part of the wall and attach it with any improvised elements, for example, with the same dowels. But usually in this case, decorative boxes for electrical wiring are used. The latter are simply glued to the wall with double tape or mounted on self-tapping screws, and wires are laid in them, opening the lid. The rest of the process is exactly the same as described above.

Video: connecting a single-gang switch with indication

How to connect a switch from an outlet

In this case, you can save on electrical wires. The connection is made in the usual manner according to the scenario already described. However, the wires are not powered in the electrical box, but in the socket.

Video: connecting the switch from the outlet

How to connect three sockets and one switch from the box

Let's consider one more case. Let us need to be powered by electricity junction box three sockets and one switch. Then it's best to do so.

The lighting cable is sometimes taken out of the box right away. Then two separate lines are obtained - one for sockets, the second for lighting. The switch is connected according to the original scheme described at the very beginning of the article.

Connecting a single-gang switch to two light bulbs

It is also possible to arrange a single-gang switch with two lamps. In this case, the lighting nodes are simply connected in parallel.

For example, the phase wire coming from the switch can be brought into a separate box. Inside its case, insert the end of this wire into a terminal block or other device for connecting wiring. And on the other side of such a contact group, two wires must be connected at the same time. These two phases should power both lamps.

To "bifurcate" the wires, you can use the Wago universal terminal block: an incoming cable is inserted into one connector, and two outgoing cables into the remaining ones; such a connection must be made on each of the three cores

Another option: both wires from lighting fixtures should be inserted into one switch output. The disadvantage is that one of the ends during operation may fall out of contact.

Video: how to connect a single-gang and two-gang switch

Usually a single-gang switch lasts a long time. If the key stops “clicking off”, then it is better to replace the assembly completely. Modern switches are difficult to repair. Most often, such a malfunction occurs: one of the wires falls out of contact. Then you need to pry off the key with a screwdriver, loosen the bolts that have opened, pull out the base, insert the contact into place and fix it. However, breakdowns are usually rare if equipment from well-known manufacturers is used.

Not for seasoned electricians easier work than the banal installation of a switch. In fact, there is nothing super complicated in this operation. True, in addition to the obligatory observance of the rules indicated in the code for electricians of the PUE, knowledge of some subtleties is also necessary. They will tell beginners how to connect the light switch in their favorite bathhouse so that bath procedures take place in civilized conditions.

Competent choice of "captain" wiring

We will leave the title of general to ourselves, because. to serve as a switch under our supervision. We will assign the colonel to an old-style package switch or a brand new two-pole machine installed in the power supply panel of a country property. The colonel will give the order to the captain during the period of connecting the device to the electrical wiring in order to completely remove the voltage.

Important! During the period of work with electrical wiring, the current supply to the facility being equipped must be completely blocked, i.e. remove the voltage by disconnecting.

The device that gives commands to the light bulb under our command is selected according to the type of wiring available. She may be:

• open - laid on top of walls, mainly made of logs or timber;
• hidden - carried out in strobe channels hollowed out in brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete.

With open wiring, everything is extremely simple: the paths for supplying and exiting the electrical flow, as well as the connection points, are determined by the naked amateur eye. To equip a bath with hidden wiring, you will need a power grid diagram, with which you need to determine the point of possible installation.

Switches for wiring hidden and open type differ structurally and externally:

• Hidden on / off devices are flush with the walls, delighting the owners only with a beautiful protective cover. The entire filling of the device is "sinked" in a pre-hollowed niche. The mechanism that gives the captain's commands is placed in a dielectric socket, similar to a shallow plastic glass. It must be installed initially in the formed recess. Fix hidden sockets in drywall partitions using special spacers, in brick and concrete walls they are "planted" on alabaster or mortar. Sockets for flush-mounted switches are sold separately, they must be selected depending on the material of the wall.
• Switches for open mains are equipped with a flat plastic or metal platform instead of a bowl-shaped installation device. It must be attached with galvanized self-tapping screws to wooden wall, dowel-nails to brick or concrete.

Both variants of switches have an equivalent number of structural components. This is a socket box, a command mechanism and decorative and protective parts made of dielectric materials that prevent the passage of current. Read more about choosing switches on the Engineer's Advice website.

General principles and installation algorithm

The installation of both types of devices is carried out by analogy; general principles and a single work algorithm:

• First, a socket box is attached, which is a bowl or platform;
• Then the light switch is directly connected by creating the correct connections between the current-carrying wires and the command body;
• Then the mechanism is fixed on the plate or in the socket-glass using screws or spacers;
• At the end, the results of the efforts are closed with a lid and the keys are put on.

The main snag is the correct connection of the wires to the working-command body of the switch. And in order to cope with this problem, you need to figure out the wiring diagram.

Switching device connection diagram

Failure to follow the rules for installing a light switch is fraught with overheating, followed by sparking and short circuit. Another very unpleasant consequence is the preservation of voltage in the wiring. Because of it, even after turning off the lamp, it will not be possible to replace a burned-out element without feeling the delights of a household electric shock.

Let's secure ourselves and property personally, remember the mysterious "phases" and "zeroes". Let's find out and remember forever what needs to be connected to what:

• Zero or, as is customary in the world of electricians, the zero core is displayed on the lighting device.
• Phase goes to the switch. A circuit must be closed within the phase core in order for the light to turn on and off. It is when the switch is turned to zero that is directly opposite, the light will turn on and go out at the order of the owner, but the lamp can be changed only after traveling to the switchboard with the bath completely disconnected from the power supply.
• There is also a phase section from the lamp to the switch. The circuit will turn off and on from key clicks at the break point of the phase channel. Those. in the place where the phase segment leading to the light bulb begins and the phase wire exiting the switch ends.

This means that both the phase and neutral wires must be connected to the lamp, and only one - the phase - to the switch. Note that all these tricky weaves are in the junction box. In fact, they are of interest to home craftsmen who install a switch in an unfurnished room or who decide to upgrade an existing system.

All connections of conductive sections are made in the junction box. It is undesirable to connect wires in plastic channels or in a wall due to complications in identifying and repairing damaged areas. If not near the installation site of the junction box, you can extend the phase and zero from the input shield.

The described principles for installing a single-key switch also apply to devices for turning on two or more lighting points. Accordingly, they have two or more keys. The difference is that each of the keys is supplied with a phase segment from the lamp, the operation of which it must control. The phase from the junction box to the switch with any number of keys is carried out exclusively one.

Color and marking of current-carrying channels

In the vast majority of cases, the owners of baths, houses, apartments trust electricians to improve the circuit with a new device. Getting involved with the intricacies of the junction box is often simply no time and not handy. Most often, the reason for the efforts of the home master is the replacement of the switch, when phase and zero current-carrying channels are already connected to the installation point.

Attention. New installation circuit breaker or its replacement is carried out only if the entire range of wires is present, forming an electrically conductive circuit.

In order for inexperienced electricians to have no difficulty in determining the phase with zero, the external insulation of the current-carrying conductors has a “combat” color:

• the phase core will be covered with a white or brown sheath;
• the blue color of the dielectric protection will proclaim: this is zero;
• yellow or green color of various shades - grounding.

According to the color prompts, you should determine how to install and what to connect the light switch to. An additional service from the manufacturer is the application of designations to the mechanism itself for a specific orientation on entry and exit issues. The connection points are indicated by the letter L with a number. For example, on a two-key device, L3 denotes phase input. Nothing else will be found next to him. On the opposite side of the device, there are connection points L1 and L2 in a row, each of which must be connected to a separate lighting device.

Sticking or clamping: which is easier?

For simplicity and reliability of the formation of connections, the connection points of the circuit breaker are equipped with plug-in and screw devices:

• The plug-in contacts firmly clamp the wire stripped to 1 cm with a spring. In order to disassemble the connection, on the opposite side of the plug-in device there is a button that operates on the principle of "pressed - released";
• The screw contact must be tightened with a screwdriver, having previously placed about 2 cm of the stripped wire under the terminal. There should not be a millimeter of insulation under the terminal, otherwise it will melt and become a threat to the owners.

No one observes a fundamental difference in terms of reliability between both options. However, sticking is easier and faster. Therefore, switches with plug-in contacts are strongly advised by sellers of hardware stores to inexperienced craftsmen. Electricians agree.

How to install a surface switch

Russian banyas are mostly wooden. There are few people who want to covertly lay an electrical circuit in them. For open wiring devices, a lot of pretty retro-style products are now being produced, covered with excellent insulation. The company will need a surface-mounted switch for them. Let's talk about the sequence of its installation.

Suppose we have already acquired a switch for open wiring. It is in the factory assembly, one key. We will install and connect a new overhead light switch in the following sequence:

• Using a slotted screwdriver, carefully pick and remove the key, then remove the protective and decorative cover.
• We disconnect the working mechanism.
• Dismantled. Only the socket plate remained in the hands. It has holes for wall mounting.
• Let's attach the plate to the installation site, just in case, mark the points and the line of the upper edge. Let's check that it is clearly horizontal. Do not forget that all subsequent parts will be attached to the socket. If we warp it, then everything else will go to the same steppe.
• We fasten the exactly horizontally aligned platform-socket box with galvanized screws. You should not make a mistake even for a couple of mm - the wood “does not like” holes located nearby.
• We cut the wires with maximum precision in accordance with the type of contacts. It is desirable that after all the operations there is no excess wire under the decorative cover.
• We connect the mechanism to the wiring, following the marking prompts and in accordance with the color of the wire.
• We check the quality of the created connection with a multimeter screwdriver or a more complex electrical tester.
• Everything is fine? We screw the mechanism.
• We put the cover in its rightful place, snap the key.

This completes the installation process.

Installation and connection of a closed switch in pictures

A completely uncomplicated process. Dismantled - correctly installed and connected - assembled.

Minimum components, there will probably not be any extra nuts after assembly. It is impossible to get confused if you figure out in advance what is connected to what. Everything literally has to check own forces as a beginner electrician. The main thing is not to forget about the safety rules, otherwise the current strength will test you for strength.

It would seem a banal question - how to connect a switch to control lighting devices. However, for many aspiring home masters who are setting up their residential properties for the first time and striving to do everything on their own to the maximum, this operation can cause complications. Moreover, various variations of connection schemes are possible, from the simplest to the most complex.

The variety of switches on sale is extremely large. But basically these differences relate to the external design of the devices and the "mechanics" of switching. And so in all the series produced by leading manufacturers, the approximate similarity of the “sets” of models according to the principle of switching contacts is still observed. In this article, we will see where, when and how various types of switches are connected.

Variety of switch models

What is a switch and where is it installed

A switch is an electrical switching device designed to control the closing and opening of the power circuit going to the fixtures. Some can connect through it Appliances, for example, a permanently installed fan.

Let's talk about the most important rule!

Switch always put on break. Yes, the power circuit can also be controlled through a break in the neutral conductor. And quite a lot of "masters" sin with this - they say, there is no difference. But this is a flagrant violation of operational safety requirements. The meaning here is simple and clear - if the switch has broken the circuit, then the device connected through it should not have a life-threatening phase voltage. That is, for example, replacing a burned-out lamp in a lamp will not be accompanied by the likelihood of electric shock.

And do not hope that this issue is not so serious. Neglecting the simple rules of electrical installation is always fraught with serious consequences.

How big is the risk of electric shock?

The answer is unequivocal - extremely large! A 220-volt household network is quite capable of inflicting severe electrical injuries, sometimes incompatible with life. If there is no understanding of this issue, then take on independent execution electrical work not worth it. To begin with, carefully read the special publication of our portal, which details about.

Varieties of switches by design

Let's leave aside the external design of these devices - here each of the manufacturers is trying to attract a buyer original design. So there is always the opportunity to choose a set of sockets and switches, made in a common style, the most suitable for the planned decoration of the room. Let's move on to more fundamental issues.

Embedded and overhead models

In modern apartments and houses, in the vast majority of cases, built-in models are used. Their use is possible only with hidden wiring. The switch is mounted in a “nest” pre-arranged in the wall, in the role of which a standard socket box with a diameter of 68 mm is most often used.

It is clear that the installation of such switches requires quite extensive preparatory work. Moreover, the laying of the necessary cables and wires should be comprehensively thought out in advance. But on the other hand, hidden, well-executed wiring is safer to use and does not interfere with any chosen wall decoration at all.

How to plan the wiring in a house or apartment and install it

The task is from the category of primary importance and increased complexity. When performing these very large-scale and labor-intensive activities, it is necessary to strictly follow the established rules and technological recommendations. With all the details, this is described in a special publication of our portal.

Overhead switches are mounted on the wall surface. This greatly simplifies their installation, and they can be used with both open and hidden wiring.

Such devices are not always appropriate in the interior, as they protrude too much beyond the surface of the wall. But where this issue is not fundamental, such switches can greatly simplify the task. Often they are used in utility or utility rooms. Many of these models have an increased class of housing protection, and may well be installed in outdoor conditions or rooms with high humidity.

However, there are lovers and emphasized original design living rooms, using open wiring, made in retro style. For this, too, there are whole lines of overhead electrical appliances - sockets and switches.

Number of keys

This difference is immediately visible - there can be one, two, three keys, and in rare cases even more. Obviously, such switches can be used to control several light sources or several groups of lamps in one luminaire.

A very common example is a two-key model installed in front of the entrance to the bathroom and toilet, or a three-key model if a corridor or kitchen is also added here. Another "classic" application two-gang switch– separate control of groups of lamps of one multi-track chandelier in the living room.

The convenience is understandable - there is no need to prepare two (or more) sockets with sockets for several switches - you can often limit yourself to one.

It should be correctly understood that the number of keys does not at all predetermine the functionality of the switch. In addition to conventional devices that work only for closing and breaking the circuit, there are also cross ones, which, in turn, can also have one or more keys. More on this will be discussed below.

Circuit breaker body protection class

All electrical devices are classified according to the degree of protection against contact with current-carrying parts of solid objects (including dust) and moisture (water). Depending on the intended operating conditions of the circuit breaker, a model suitable for these criteria should be selected.

The security class is indicated by the letter IP followed by a two-digit number. The first number indicates the degree of protection against solid particles and dust, and can be from 0 to 6. The second number is a measure of protection against water ingress - from 0 to 9. The larger the number, the higher the protection.

In ordinary living rooms where too high humidity and dust cannot be, it is quite possible to use IP20 class switches. Nothing prevents you from installing more secure ones here, but this is reflected in the cost. But for the kitchen, for example, it’s worth choosing an IP44 class model - there are enough fumes here, and the possibility of splashing water cannot be completely ruled out.

The requirements are even higher if the switch is installed in a bathhouse, in a shower room, in an unheated damp room. Here it is better to apply models with a class of at least IP45. Well, if the installation is supposed to be outdoors, that is, a direct hit of atmospheric precipitation is possible, then the optimal model seems to be at least IP55, 56, 66 - extra insurance will never hurt in these matters.

Terminal Type Differences

Most switches have conventional screw terminals for connecting wires. The stripped end of the wire is inserted into the socket (hole), and then a screw is tightened with a screwdriver, providing a reliable clamp in the terminal. Solid wires can be directly tightened into the terminals. Stranded - first they are tinned, or, which is simpler, a terminal lug is put on and crimped on them.

Many modern models use spring terminals. There is no screw on them - after the prepared end of the wire is inserted all the way into the hole, the terminal is clamped automatically, providing reliable contact. Convenient and fast, although some electricians are still skeptical about the durability of such connections, preferring to work with familiar screw terminals.

Availability of light indication

A handy feature that allows you not to fumble on the wall with your hand in the dark. The indicator lit in the off position will accurately show the location of the switch keys. The cost of such devices is not much higher than conventional ones, so such models are very popular.

However, sometimes owners who have not thought through this issue in advance have to refuse such a function. The fact is that a small current passing through the indicator can cause flickering or dim glow of gas discharge or LED lamps with dimmed lighting. For many, this is very annoying. And you have to bite out the conductor that goes to the indicator in order to turn it off completely. So this should be kept in mind when choosing a switch.

By the way, the indication on some types of switches may have a completely opposite purpose. That is, the light is on when the circuit is closed. This is convenient when the lighting device is placed remotely. For example, you can immediately see if the light in the basement, the inspection hole of the garage, etc. has remained on.

Differences by type of control device

There is also quite a wide variety in this issue. And each of the owners chooses the option that seems more convenient to him.

• Key switches - e This is the most common group of switching devices. It assumes the presence of a rocking mechanism with fixation in one of two positions - upper and lower. The design of the mechanism is different - with a ball and a rocker, with flat or round springs, with other details that provide a given position of the key.

Such switches are very convenient, most familiar to most users. They do not differ in high price either. And at the same time, they are sufficiently reliable, capable of serving faithfully for decades with careful operation.

• Button switches, fixed in a recessed position, did not deserve much popularity, although there are lovers of this approach. The durability of such devices raises some concerns - with frequent use, the button mechanism wears out rather quickly.

Pushbutton switches are also available without fixation. But in this case, the circuit also has to include a relay device, which will be responsible for closing the power circuit. Not very convenient for self-assembly.

• Rotary switches once they dominated without limit, and then they were replaced by keyboards, as more convenient and reliable. However, they still have their adherents, especially among retro style lovers.

As a rule, these are overhead switches, and most often - from the collections of "retro-electrics". By the way, “outdated” in them is only appearance. And the "stuffing" can be quite modern. So, with external resemblance different models of this type, they can be different in functionality - have several positions, be analogues of two-button, through, cross, etc.

• Lanyard switches. There are fans of such devices. Such switches are convenient when placed in traditional places of home rest or near the bed in the bedroom.

It is difficult to say how appropriate the widespread installation of such switches will be in place of the usual keyboards. Nevertheless, they are presented in the assortment of almost all leading manufacturers. By the way, the presence of only one lace sometimes does not at all indicate the limited functionality of the product. So, for example, some switches of this type are able to respond differently to the amount of cord tension. That is, upon closer examination, they turn out to be analogues of models with several keys.

• Touch switches. This is already the trend of modernity. To switch positions, a light touch of the finger is enough.

Tactile contact with the panel is perceived by the built-in electronic circuit, which already generates a control signal for the switching device. Very convenient, does not require any effort. And after quickly getting used to such a technique, you no longer want to return to old models.

The disadvantage in the first place can be considered a rather high cost of such switches. This criterion, probably, does not allow them yet to move into the category of widely demanded equipment. But the trend towards cheaper can be traced clearly, and the demand for it will grow. Presumably, their reliability will also increase, since there are many complaints on the network about the not outstanding durability of some products.

• Switches with remote control. This is a further improvement of the sensor models, which allows you to control the light without getting up.

Surely, such devices have a great future, and their popularity is constantly growing. But they have not yet reached mass demand - again because of the high cost.

There are other types of switches - with electromechanical or electronic (glow dimmer), with built-in light or motion sensors, with a timer, or even responding to voice commands. But these are already particulars that are either used extremely rarely, or have a narrowly focused purpose.

We note once again that, regardless of the types of switches mentioned, fundamentally similar schemes are used for their electrical installation. This will be the subject of further consideration.

Wiring diagrams for switches of various types

Conventional one-button switch

The most common and simple scheme - the switch is responsible for controlling a specific lighting fixture.

Such a switch has only two contact terminals - at the input and at the output. Therefore, there are only two possible positions - the circuit is closed or open.

The circuit using such a switch is also very straightforward.

Several explanations at once according to the scheme - they will concern not only it, but also subsequent ones.

1 is the power line coming from switchboard. As a rule, the power cable consists of three wires. Blue (cyan) - zero N. Green-yellow - protective earth PE. The color of the insulation of the phase wire L can be different, but only so that it cannot be confused with zero or ground. In this diagram, the phase is shown in brown.

2 - mounting, in which the switching of suitable cables and wires is carried out.

3 - wire connection points.

Immediately make a reservation that such connections in the box can be performed in different ways. These are twisting, followed by soldering and insulation. For twists without soldering, special caps can be used. Widely used terminals various types. So, Wago clamping terminals are very popular among electricians, allowing, if necessary, to disconnect the wires without the risk of breaking them. These terminals are often criticized. But from the experience of personal use: for 8 years of operation in the home lighting system - not a single complaint.

However, each master here is free to choose a connection that meets the safety requirements and his concepts of reliability and durability. The only thing, of course, twists are completely excluded. Yes, aluminum, by the way, has no place in home wiring for a long time.

4 - single-key switch.

5 - a lighting device is conditionally shown.

6 - the body of the lighting device, if it is made of metal. In this case, a ground loop wire must be connected to it in order to avoid injury in the event of a phase breakdown on the case. As you can see, this ground conductor does not take any part in the control and power circuit of the lighting device and, by and large, does not affect its performance. It is also not involved in cases where the body of the lamp is completely made of dielectric materials. Therefore, reiterating the importance protective earth, we will not show it in subsequent diagrams, so as not to “overload” the image with details.

We pay attention once again - the switch is placed only on a phase break. The neutral conductor goes directly from the mounting box to the lamp - in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe switch, it has nothing to do at all.

How such a connection works is shown by the diagram below.

Everything is extremely simple and clear. When the key is switched up, the circuit is closed. There is already a zero on the lamp, the phase came through the switch - the lighting device worked. (We are talking about lighting, but it should be correctly understood that another device, for example, a stationary fan, can be connected in the same way).

Again, just for an example when studying the simplest circuit, let's look at the recommended sequence of steps for connecting a switch to a lighting fixture using hidden wiring.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	Preparatory work has been carried out. The apartment (house) has already installed a switchboard with circuit breakers (pos. 1). Punches (pos. 2) are cut from it for laying hidden power cables. From the mounting box (pos. 3), “responsible” for connecting the lighting device, a streak (pos. 4) is cut vertically down to the socket box (pos. 5), where the switch will be installed. In the opposite direction, towards the ceiling, there is a shtraba (pos. 6) for laying the cable from the box to the lighting fixture.
	A cable is laid from the switchboard in the gate to the box. If the network implies the presence of a ground loop, then the cable must be three-core. Recommended for lighting systems VVG cable Png 3×1.5 mm². The cable must be brought into the box with a margin of approximately 100 ÷ 120 mm so that the length is enough for installation work.
	Phase L wire (in this example its insulation is gray) is connected to the output of the circuit breaker responsible for a specific line of the lighting system. When using wires with a cross section of 1.5 mm², the rating of the machine should be 10 amperes.
	The blue wire of the N cable is connected to the zero bus. Green-yellow, respectively, to the PE bus bar.
	The end of the cable jammed into the box is cut off - the outer protective sheath is removed from it, the ends of the wires are stripped 8 ÷ 10 mm from insulation. It is advisable to immediately mark the wires - stick strips of plaster on them and sign them. This is especially important if distractions are made for other work (and this often happens at this stage of construction or repair), and in cases where the colors of the wire insulation have a non-standard color - and this also happens. So that the “pinout” is not forgotten, it is better to mark the wires right away.
	A two-wire cable VVG 2 × 1.5 is laid in the vertical shtrab from the box to the socket of the future switch. Also, a margin is left along the length of about 100 ÷ 120 mm. The cable is cut, the ends of the wires are stripped of insulation. The example shows that the wires have gray and brown insulation. In this case, this is not so important - one L is simply marked, and the second - L1.
	A similar operation is carried out at the opposite end of this piece of cable, inserted into the socket. Since it is supposed to finish the walls with filling the stub channels with plaster (putty), it is better to seal the socket at this stage with construction tape so that the solution does not get into it. The installation of the switch is usually carried out after finishing.
	From the junction box, along the upward strobe, and then through the cable channel in the ceiling, wiring is laid leading to the installation site of the lighting device. Again, this can be a VVG 3 × 1.5 cable if ground switching is supposed.
	A lighting fixture is attached to the selected location. The laid cable must be brought into its housing. True, many devices (the same chandeliers) also suggest an open location of the switching unit, which is then closed with a decorative cap. But it is not difficult to deal with this locally, and the switching principle does not change from such differences.
	The connected cable is cut, the wires are stripped of insulation, marked.
	The stripped ends of the cable wires are connected to the lamp terminals. For grounding, a terminal is usually provided, located directly on the instrument case. The blue wire N is connected to the terminal block, focusing on the color of the lamp wire suitable for it, or guided by the affixed icon. Well, then the phase wire L1 is connected - to the remaining terminal or, again, in accordance with the marking of the contacts.
	Opposite, wound up in mounting box the end of this cable is cut, the wires are stripped, marked.
	Now you need to carefully separate the wires in the box into groups. This is easy to do if labeling was carried out. In this case, there are four pairs. The first (here - from left to right): the wire of phase L of the power cable and the wire L, going from the box to the switch. Second: two blue neutral wires N - power cable and going to the lamp. The third is similar to the second, but only with green-yellow PE wires. Fourth - wires L1 from the switch and from the lighting fixture.
	Now we need to connect these pairs. As mentioned above, this can be done using twists. But this example shows the use of Wago clamp terminals. You will need four terminals for two contacts.
	The switch has been made.
	The box can be immediately closed with a plug.
	If the home wiring system does not have a ground loop, or the lighting fixture is made of dielectric materials and does not require grounding, the task is simplified. In this case, a two-core cable is laid from the box to the luminaire.
	And in the box, only three connecting nodes are obtained, that is, three terminals are enough for switching.
	After the complete completion of the work on laying home wiring, the room is finished.
	Now you can finally install the switch in place. Wires are connected to the terminals - one at the input, the second at the output. There is no fundamental difference in this case, where L will be, and where L1 will not. But with more complex schemes, which will be considered further, this may be of significance.
	Everything, the switch after fixing it in the socket can be closed with a decorative cover, put the key in place.
	After that, it remains to screw the lamps into the lamp, finally assemble it by installing the ceiling. Well, then - power the line on the machine in the switch cabinet and evaluate the performance of the system by checking the switching on and off of the light. Everything should work flawlessly.

The reader probably noticed that nothing is said about installing the switch itself in the socket box. The fact is that the designs of models differ in great variety. And how, in what sequence to disassemble the device, how to clamp terminal connections- do not count all the cases. And the fixation of the switch in the socket box is practically no different from installing (not to be confused with electrical installation!) An outlet or other built-in device. And this is already described in detail on the pages of our portal. So repeating doesn't make much sense. Better to focus on circuit diagrams switch switching.

How to install an outlet in an apartment?

With this task, subject to all the safety requirements of work and following the schemes and technological recommendations, any homeowner should cope. With all the details, with a few step by step examples this is described in a special article of our portal.

Two-gang switch

This switch allows you to control the lighting of two separate lamps (groups of lamps), or to switch groups of lamps separately, for example, in one multi-track chandelier.

• switches may vary. The most commonly used model has one common (paralleled) phase input and two separate outputs. Its scheme can be represented as follows:

It is obvious that each of the keys controls its group of lighting fixtures completely independently of the other. For example, often such switches are placed in front of the bathroom and toilet - you can turn on the light in any room or in both at the same time. Or, in an application to one lamp. The first key turns on one or two light bulbs, the light of which is sufficient for a normal rest. The second key - uses a little more lamps, that is, the light will be brighter. But when full lighting is required, both keys are turned on and all the horns are lit.

The diagram below will help the master who encounters this issue for the first time better understand the principle of connection.

In the mounting box, zero wires diverge to the fixtures. The phase wire is connected to the input of a two-gang switch. And from each of the outputs through the mounting box there is a separate conductor, each to its own lamp. Their inclusion can be carried out separately, independently of one another, or simultaneously.

It is clear that a three-core cable should already be laid from the mounting box to the switch. And here it is already necessary to pay special attention to the correct marking of wires, as mentioned above. The colors of the insulation of the wires converging in the box can often match, and thus mislead an inexperienced installer.

We must say right away that a three-gang switch is connected according to the same principle. It just increases the number of wires extending from it.

• When purchasing a two-gang switch, you should exercise some care. The fact is that, although rare, there are still models with a separate phase input. On a diagram, it might look like this:

Note: the indicated marking of the terminal contacts is very conditional. In this matter, by the way, manufacturers do not have unanimity. There are completely arbitrary digital and alphanumeric signatures of contacts, or even symbols in the form of arrows. But in combination with the diagram, usually applied on the back of the switch housing, it is not difficult to deal with each specific case.

It is clear that the circuit shown above is not quite suitable for such a switch. True, if you have managed to buy just such a model by mistake, everything is decided by installing a jumper that closes both contacts at the input.

Such switches are also used. It is clear that bringing two different phases into one socket is complete madness. But sometimes circumstances force you to draw lines from two different defensive ones. Although this seems to be an extremely inexpedient and cumbersome solution.

You can use a similar device for some sophisticated lighting control circuits. For example, it is required to organize switching in such a way that the inclusion of a group of lamps depends on whether another group is turned on. In this case, you can install a jumper between the output of one "channel" and the input of another. If you look at the illustration above, then between L1 and L2.

What this achieves is shown by the following diagram.

The green color shows the jumper connecting the output of the left key to the input of the right one.

A phase wire is connected directly to the input of the left key. And in her work she is completely independent. That is, its inclusion leads to the inclusion of devices connected to this line. But if it is turned off, then the second key will not work - the circuit in the second line is open. But when the first one is turned on, then the second one can already “lead its team”.

There are such cases infrequently, but, who knows, maybe a similar option will come in handy.

Connecting a walk-through switch

Imagine these situations:

• Spacious entrance hall. The owner returned home after dark, turned on the light at the entrance, took off his shoes, undressed. And then forced to turn off the light and make his way in the dark to the door to the room. Uncomfortable. It begs the opportunity to turn off the light at the exit from the hallway.
• A long corridor, passing through which it will also be more convenient to turn on the light at the entrance and turn it off at the exit.
• checkpoint common room or hall, from where several doors lead to neighboring rooms. It would be nice to be able to control the lighting from each of them.

And there are many such options. To solve this problem, it is necessary to use pass-through switches, the name of which already speaks for itself.

By and large, these are not even switches, but switches. Outwardly, they look like the usual single-key. Often they are marked with a distinctive badge in the form of multidirectional vertical arrows. But here the scheme of their internal switching differs from the usual single-key ones and looks like this:

Two positions of the switch key correspond to two switching options - to one or the second output. And such switches in a common system are always used in pairs.

The scheme of their electrical installation may look like this:

We begin to understand.

With a neutral wire - no change.

The phase wire from the box goes to the input of one of the switches. A wire going to the lamp is connected to the input contact of the second switch. (Both shown in brown).

Output No. 2 of the first switch is connected through a mounting box with a wire to output No. 3 of the second. (Highlighted in purple).

And, accordingly, exit No. 3 of the first - with exit No. 2 of the second.

Thus, it turns out that a three-core cable must be connected to each single-key switch.

In the position shown in the diagram, it is quite obvious that the power supply circuit of the lamp is open. But it is worth moving the key to another position on any of the switches, as the circuit closes. And vice versa - when the lighting is on, any of the switches is able to break the circuit.

By the way, the switching of output contacts shown here is not a dogma at all. It's just that with such a scheme, the same position of the keys (both up or both down) of the pass-through switches means a circuit break. Unequal - inclusion. But nothing prevents the contacts of the same name from being connected to each other - just operation and disconnection will occur with other key positions. Not essential.

The animated illustration below clearly shows how such a circuit works with two pass-through switches.

Pass-through switches can be two- or even three-key, that is, capable of controlling two or three lighting devices (groups of devices) according to the same principle. We will not give the scheme - it is not fundamentally different. Only, of course, the number of wires is increasing.

Cross switch application

But what if you want to have three or even more lighting control points? For example, on the switch at the head of the masters' beds in the bedroom and at the entrance to the room? Or at each of the exits of a spacious hall with many doors?

There is a solution to this problem as well. To do this, together with a pair of pass-through switches, another one is used. It is called cross or intermediate.

The cross switch can also be one- or two-button. For external distinction on his front side often an image is applied in the form of multidirectional horizontal arrows or in the form of a lattice.

Consider a simpler option - single-key. It has a switching scheme.

There are four terminals in the cross switch, that is, four wires must be supplied to it from the junction box. And they are nothing more than those conductors that connect the output terminals of the feed-through switches. That is, in fact, a cross switch is placed in the gap of this pair of wires. An example is shown in the diagram below:

How it works is clearly demonstrated by the following illustration:

paint everything possible options it’s already difficult here - there are quite a lot of them. But it is possible to unequivocally summarize the main thing. No matter what position the switches are in when the system is not working, changing the position of any of them will immediately turn on the lighting. And vice versa - when the light is on, it is enough to switch any key to make it go out. That is, lighting control can be completely equivalent to be performed from any of the points.

Another interesting feature is that the number of cross switches between the gates is not limited by anything. And no matter how many of them are installed according to this principle, they will all be able to control the connected lighting device with absolutely equal success.

* * * * * * *

So, the main, most commonly used circuits for connecting switches were considered. The only question that remained was not entirely clarified - where is it better to place them? There are also quite definite recommendations on this subject. We will not paint them here - they are very well set out in the video below.

Video: How to place switches in the apartment more correctly and with maximum convenience?

Have you decided to lay electrical wiring in your new dacha with your own hands or to upgrade the existing network in the apartment? Agree, in this area there are nuances that should be thoroughly dealt with for the sake of your own safety. In addition, a self-made electrician is required to ensure the flawless operation of the devices.

We are ready to tell you in the finest details how to connect a light bulb through a switch. In implementing such a solution, a number of proven techniques are used, which you will become familiar with while reading the article.

Here you will find a lot of useful information. Owning information will give both confidence and strength. Graphic materials and videos will help to thoroughly understand the issue.

Previously, before starting the installation of switches, lighting fixtures, their connection to each other and the network, it is necessary to de-energize the 220V power supply in that part of the home wiring where electrical work is supposed to be done.