No modern dwelling is inconceivable without electrical equipment, just as the life of a person in the 21st century is without electricity. Installation of electrical wiring is a mandatory stage in equipping a house or apartment with “life support systems”. At the same time, an increase in the power consumption of electricity was constantly observed.
Why you need to change
The rapid growth of the "home" current load is the factor that determines the need for a new one. In the vast majority of residential buildings built during the Soviet era, electrical wiring based on aluminum conductors was used without the use of protective grounding.
The advantage of such wiring can only be called the minimum cost and ease of installation. But the "Soviet" aluminum wiring is designed only for connecting a minimum of devices. This is a TV, a lighting lamp, a refrigerator, a radio and several other low-power appliances.
Electricians of past years could not have imagined that their descendants would simultaneously connect a computer, a printer, an electric stove, a microwave oven, an air conditioner, and a dozen more different devices to this single-phase, without “earth”, aluminum household electrical wiring.
For such a colossal load aluminum wires not calculated. An overload on the consumed current can be fraught with any malfunctions up to a fire. Replacing electrical wiring means rewiring it from scratch using copper.
It is pointless to carry out installation in only one room. And do this by screwing new copper wires to old aluminum, it is also unacceptable due to completely different physical properties these metals.
Where to start
The installation of new electrical wiring should always begin with a study of the PUE - the Rules for the Installation of Electrical Installations, namely section 7.1 regarding home electrical wiring.
If you decide to do the connection of a new home electrical network with your own hands, you will need to study the rules for laying the network in order to avoid mistakes that can lead to an accident and even a catastrophe - up to the death of a person.
If you logically decide to entrust the installation of a new electrical wiring to a specialist, knowing at least the basic rules will help control his work.
Before installing the wiring, you need to decide on the following key points.
Decide on the type of input - single-phase (220V) or three-phase (380V). In the vast majority of cases, single-phase is used.
Three-phase input of electrical wiring is advisable only if a workshop or workshop is equipped in the room where three-phase asynchronous motors or similar equipment.
Next, you need to develop a wiring diagram. This is a detailed marking on the plan of an apartment or house of points for placing sockets, switches, main current consumers and, most importantly, lines going to them from the switchboard. In the case of complex work, a routing With detailed description order of action.
It is imperative to calculate the total power of the maximum one-time energy consumption of all appliances in the house - it is not recommended if it exceeds 5.5 kW, since they usually do not allocate more power for domestic purposes.
The maximum consumers that will be allowed to work simultaneously are taken into account. Usually this is a refrigerator, lighting systems, a computer and a router, a TV, heating systems (if they are electric), a split system, a washing machine.
Division of plots and choice of installation type
On the wiring diagram it is necessary to divide the sections according to the level of load. In order to save on the cost of the cable for the weakest consumers - lighting lamps, sockets for charging low-power electronics (players, phones), a copper cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm is used, for the main group (almost all household appliances) - 2.5 mm, for the most powerful - an electric stove - copper with a section of 4 mm is used. The input cable must have a cross section of at least 6 mm for each conductor.
An important step is to choose the type of installation - open (in cable channels) or hidden (inside the walls - immured in plaster, hidden behind the panels).
With a tape measure in hand, you need to measure the required amount of each type of cable, purchase the cable and all components - a meter, circuit breakers and RCDs (according to the diagram), the box itself for mounting the switchboard, if required.
According to modern standards for the installation of electrical wiring for each group of consumers - a stove, basic household appliances, lighting - a separate circuit breaker is installed for protection against short circuits, and a separate RCD - a residual current device - to protect people living in the house from electric shock.
Once you have decided on the scheme and type of new electrical wiring, you can begin to install it. At the same time, first of all, the electrical wiring in the house is installed in full, and already in the second it is connected to a common shield and an electric meter.
The last operation of the installation of electrical wiring is always performed by a full-time electrician of the management company or HOA, since. counter must be sealed.
Fundamental rules
Or the house is carried out only in accordance with the PUE. But, despite the seeming severity, most of the basic rules for installing electrical wiring are not so difficult to implement. Here is a short list of them:
- during installation, convenient access to all the main elements of the electrical wiring - automatic machines, RCDs, sockets, switches and junction boxes should be provided (boxes must not be tightly walled up);
- installation height of the switch - from 60 to 150 cm from the floor, installation location - on the opposite side from the one where the door opens;
- electrical wiring is laid only vertically or horizontally; laying diagonally or with free bends is unacceptable;
- the socket is installed at a height of 30 cm (European standard) to 80 cm (accepted in Russia for safety in case of flooding) from the floor;
- the distance from the socket to the gas or electric stove, heating radiator and any pipes - at least half a meter;
- the horizontal wiring line is mounted no closer than 15 cm to the ceiling or floor, vertical - no closer than 10 cm to the edge of the door or window;
- distance between parallel cables - at least 3 mm, or each cable must be in a protective casing (corrugated or armored pipe);
Installation of cables should be only on the terminals inside the junction boxes (sockets can play their role). The connection of the cores by the method of twisting, wrapped with electrical tape, is unacceptable.
V last resort, the twist must be soldered and insulated using a cambric - a heat shrink tube. Be sure to take care of grounding. If it was not, it must be mounted and connected to a common bus with a bolted connection.
Cable selection
The main materials used for wiring, which is logical, include cable. It is impossible to neglect the correct selection of cables for electrical wiring, since at best this will only lead to an increase in the cost of installing the system, and at worst - to wiring failure, breakdown, electric shock or fire.
There is a huge variety of power cables on the market - and this is not counting cables for low-voltage systems - signaling, video surveillance, communication systems. In order not to make a mistake with the choice, we will make a reservation right away: for the installation of household electrical wiring, only the following types of power (!) Cables can be used:
- PVA (limited - only for lighting).
It is strictly forbidden to use as power wires for other purposes, for example, communication cables.
The VVG cable is a Russian single-core copper cable (it is recommended to choose the one on the packaging of which there is an inscription “made according to GOST”, and not according to TU), specially designed for indoor laying in rooms.
It can be used for wiring in networks with voltages up to 1000 V. Inside the cable there are 2 or 3 copper cores, each with a cross section of 1.5 to 10 mm (depending on the type of cable). Each core has individual insulation, all three are additionally protected by a common one. Insulation material - vinyl.
For earthed systems (required), a three-wire cable is used. Marking - VVG 3 * 1.5 (3 wires with a cross section of 1.5 mm) - for lighting, VVG 3 * 2.5 - wiring for household appliances, VVG 3 * 4 - installation of a line for an electric stove, VVG 3 * 6 (or 3 * 10) - input of electrical wiring into the house. Lived in blue insulation - it is always (!) Zero, in yellow-green - earth, in brown, black or white - phase.
The NYM cable is a German analogue of VVG, which is distinguished by an additional layer of intermediate insulation for fire protection. Its advantage is the possibility of installation without additional insulation in rooms with high humidity, as well as the convenience of cutting (due to the design feature).
The disadvantage is the higher price than VVG, as well as the low resistance to sunlight inherent in PVC, from which its insulation is made. This cable is recommended for installation in cable ducts or strobes, but not in the ground and not in the open air. Marking is completely similar to VVG.
PVA - strictly speaking, not a cable, but a wire. It consists of three stranded conductors, and is much more flexible than VVG or NYM. But the current load that flexible multi-core can withstand is much lower than single-core.
PVA with a cross section of 1.5 mm can only be used for installation ceiling lighting, while not doing without crimping the ends of the cores with tips. It cannot be used for other electrical wiring elements.
Open and closed laying methods
There are, in fact, only 2 main ways of installing electrical wiring: open, also called external or external, and closed - internal. The first installation method is simpler - it provides for laying cables outside the walls, in cable channels.
First, a cable channel is attached to the wall using dowels and self-tapping screws, then a cable is pulled inside it. Switches and sockets when installing electrical wiring in an open way are also used external. The advantages of the method are the speed of installation, cleanliness and easy access to wiring.
The disadvantage of this method of installation is one, but significant - it gives the room a completely “office” look, therefore, wiring in cable channels is rarely used in residential buildings and apartments, in case of emergency.
Most often, wiring is installed in a dwelling in a hidden way, which can also be conditionally divided into two subspecies. The first type is installation on a wall, which is then covered with plasterboard panels or slabs, and the second is installation inside non-load-bearing walls in niches-slots called strobes.
The last installation method is the most difficult, but the most durable. Wall-mounted and properly connected wiring can last 30-50 years.
How is the closed gasket
Installation of hidden wiring is carried out according to the following algorithm.
First, using a level, pencils or markers, mark the wall, determining the lines for laying cables. In this case, a check is made for the presence of previous wiring using a special tester. On the wall, before starting installation, they also mark the tie-in points of sockets, switches, installation of lamps, junction boxes - up to the shield.
With the help of an impact drill or a puncher with a crown nozzle, niches for sockets and switches are cut out in the marked places.
After that, with a grinder, a puncher with a chisel nozzle or a hammer (in hard-to-reach places), strobes are cut strictly along the marking lines for laying cables. The depth of the groove is about 2 cm.
Wires are being laid (they can be slightly “grabbed” with alabaster), installation of socket boxes and distribution boxes.
The first is the main wire VVG 3 * 2.5 (or NYM 3 * 2.5). It fits into the strobe of the main highway - from the sockets to the distribution boxes, from them to the main shield. V junction boxes lighting cables with a cross section of 1.5 are connected to it using terminals.
Installation of an electrical wiring line for a large load, with a cross section of 4 mm (electric stove, boiler) is carried out only in a separate line.
The socket boxes are planted on a gypsum mixture. After installing all the wiring lines, the entire system is called by a tester. If no errors are found, then you can proceed to finishing the strobes with plaster, installing sockets and switches.
Shield installation
This is the most difficult and critical part of the installation. electrical network. Protective circuit breakers and RCDs are mounted in the shield according to the scheme that was previously determined.
The shield includes a thick lead-in cable from the common house bus and is routed throughout the room by means of intermediate devices. So, for a lighting group, you can use an automatic machine for 16 A and an RCD for 25A / 30mA, for household appliances - an automatic machine for 25A and an RCD for 40A / 30mA, and so on.
Please note that only a professional should select and arrange devices in the switchboard, as well as the final installation of the switchboard!
The shield can either be placed in a niche, if there is one, or simply hung on the wall. Please note that when making a new installation of electrical wiring in the apartment, it is also necessary to replace the input to the house, that is, the connection to the common house bus.
In this case, it will be necessary to disconnect the old electrical wiring input from the electric meter and connect a new one, which entails the need to re-sealing the meter. Optionally, you can try to achieve the transfer of the meter to the house, but energy supply companies do not always allow this.
VVG-ng is a copper flexible cable in flame retardant polyvinyl chloride insulation. It has both round and flat design, which is convenient for some types of installation. To date, the VVG-ng brand cable is considered the most common cable product for wiring, both in residential and industrial premises.
Cable brand VVG-ng according to technical specifications has a different performance of single-core and multi-core cores, and according to GOST, the mass of sections of the conductive core. The VVG-ng cable is designed for an operating alternating voltage of 660V and higher, with a frequency of 50 Hz. The permissible temperature on the conductive core is + 70 ° C, and the operating range is not limited for the territory Russian Federation. Permissible temperature during installation of the VVG-ng cable is not lower than -10 °C.
The bend during installation of the wire should be 10 diameters for single-core cables, and 7.5 diameters for multi-wire cables. The service life of the cable of this brand is more than 30 years.
Types of installation of cable brand VVG-ng
1. Open way:
Based on the technical characteristics of the cable, its open laying on surfaces and structures made of non-combustible or slow-burning materials such as gypsum, concrete, brick, plastered surface, etc. is allowed. Open laying of the cable along suspended structures, such as a cable, etc., is also not excluded. providing reliable laying and not allowing mechanical impact on the cable such as sagging and stretching.
If there is a risk of mechanical damage to the cable, additional protection must be installed. Also, additional protection should be used when installing the cable in an open way on combustible wooden surfaces and installation should be carried out using protection, such as a cable channel, corrugated hose, metal hose, pipes, etc.
2. Cable laying on cable-supporting structures:
Cable-supporting structures include pipes, ducts, etc. This mounting method is more suitable for industrial premises than for residential. When laying a cable in production, one should take into account the categorization of the premises in which the cable and cable-supporting structures are being installed, as well as environmental factors.
On cable-supporting structures, it is allowed to lay the VVG-ng cable in a bundle. The number of cables in the bundle is determined by the factors listed above and the technical characteristics of the structures, as well as the rules for the installation of electrical installations.
3. Hidden cable laying VVG-ng:
Hidden is the most common way to install cable in residential areas. The cable is laid in grooves, under plaster, in voids, etc. This method does not have the possibility of mechanical damage, therefore, does not require additional protection. Exceptions to the emptiness of the walls of wooden houses, in which hidden laying of cables in non-combustible materials, pipes, metal hoses, etc. is allowed. The correctness of the installation of the hidden laying of the VVG-ng cable is determined by the regulatory documents for hidden electrical wiring.
4. Cable laying in the ground:
The VVG-ng cable is not recommended for laying in the ground, since it does not have natural protection against mechanical impact, but it is possible to lay such a cable in the ground with additional protection such as pipes, tunnels, HDPE pipes, etc.
Any of the installation methods must be carried out in accordance with regulatory documents, technical characteristics of electrical equipment, rules for the installation of electrical installations (chapter 2.1 Electrical wiring) with the involvement of qualified personnel with access to this type of work.
Cable laying, the price of which is lower than the average market price in Moscow, is one of the specialized services of the ElectroDoca electrical installation organization. If you are interested in cable laying, price per meter or advice on the installation of a power cable - consult with the specialists of our company, and you will be convinced that it is in ElectroDoca that you are ready to offer you the best value for money, as well as the shortest deadlines for completing work.
Cable installation: price, list of services.
| 1. ELECTRICAL WIRING, CABLE CHANNELS | |||
| 1.1 | Laying a cable or wire in a box (cable channel) up to 4 mm square. | m.p. | 50 |
| 1.2 | Laying a cable or wire in a box (cable channel) from 6 mm square. | m.p. | 60 |
| 1.3 | Installation of electrical wiring in a strobe up to 4 mm square. | m.p. | 50 |
| 1.4 | Installation of electrical wiring in a strobe from 6 mm square. | m.p. | 70 |
| 1.5 | Installation of cable or wire on the ceiling | m.p. | 80 |
| 1.6 | Installation of a cable or wire in a corrugated pipe on the ceiling | m.p. | 120 |
| 1.7 | Tightening the cable into the corrugated pipe | m.p. | 40 |
| 1.8 | Tightening the cable into a metal conduit | m.p. | 60 |
| 1.9 | Cable channel up to 25 mm wide on gypsum board (drywall), wood | m.p. | 120 |
| 1.10 | Cable channel up to 25 mm wide for bricks | m.p. | 140 |
| 1.11 | Cable duct up to 25 mm wide for concrete | m.p. | 170 |
| 1.12 | Cable channel with a width of more than 25 mm on the GKL (drywall), wood | m.p. | 150 |
| 1.13 | Cable channel with a width of more than 25 mm for bricks | m.p. | 180 |
| 1.14 | Cable duct with a width of more than 25 mm on concrete | m.p. | 210 |
| 2. STROBLING | |||
| 2.1 | Shtroba size 20x20 mm in plasterboard (drywall) | m.p. | 150 |
| 2.2 | Shtroba size 20x20 mm in brick | m.p. | 200 |
| 2.3 | Shtroba size 20x20 mm in concrete | m.p. | 370 |
| 2.4 | Shtroba size 40x40 mm in plasterboard (drywall) | m.p. | 160 |
| 2.5 | Shtroba size 40x40 mm in brick | m.p. | 330 |
| 2.6 | Shtroba size 40x40 mm in concrete | m.p. | 580 |
| 2.7 | Shtroba size 70x70 mm in GKL (drywall) | m.p. | 180 |
| 2.8 | Shtroba size 70x70 mm in brick | m.p. | 440 |
| 2.9 | Shtroba size 70x70 mm in concrete | m.p. | 800 |
| 2.10 | Shtroba size 100x100 mm in plasterboard (drywall) | m.p. | 250 |
| 2.11 | Shtroba size 100x100 mm in brick | m.p. | 700 |
| 2.12 | Shtroba size 100x100 mm in concrete | m.p. | 1200 |
When laying the cable, the prices depend on the installation method (hidden or external). However, no matter how the cable will be laid, the cost per meter in our company is minimal. Electrical work is carried out in compliance with all the rules of electrical installation and with a guarantee of high aesthetic quality.
We offer our clients the following types of services:
- Outdoor cable laying in Moscow. The wiring is fastened with staples and staples. The advantage of this method is the ease of repairing the wiring in the event of an emergency. The disadvantage is the low aesthetic effect (the cable can be hidden under the plinth, platbands or baguette, but in some places it will still pass along the walls).
- Concealed cable installation. The cable in this case is laid in a specially equipped cutting in the wall (strobe). The advantages of the method are safety (you should not be afraid that a child or a pet will reach the cable) and a high aesthetic effect. The disadvantage is that the cost of installing the cable in a hidden way is higher than when laying it over the walls. In addition, when carrying out repairs in an apartment or house, the cable hidden in the wall can be accidentally damaged: before drilling the walls, you need to look at the wiring diagram.
- Installation of the cable in the cable channel. Installation of a cable channel, the price of which is indicated in our price list, is most often used in the electrification of office premises and country houses. The master will pick up suitable size cable channel, install all the necessary elements - plugs, tees, etc. The advantage of this method is the ease of access to the wiring. The disadvantage is not a very good aesthetic effect (which, in principle, is quite appropriate in offices).
- Underground cable laying. This type of power cable laying, the price of which is indicated in the price list, requires highly qualified masters and the cost of maintaining earthworks. The installation of the power cable is carried out on the basis of the project, either manually or with the help of a cable plow. The cost of laying the cable in the trench per meter will depend on which option is chosen.
- Air line installation. It is carried out either on porcelain insulators, or with the help of a stretch (electricians will help you choose the optimal type of installation after inspecting the facility).
- Drawing up a project and assistance in coordinating it with Energonadzor: this condition is mandatory for the initial laying of the cable.
- Calculation of the power consumed by the electrified object.
- Selection of the required type of cables (note: special types of cables will be required when using outdoor and underground laying schemes).
Hello, in this article I will tell you, methods of attaching the cable to the wall and to the ceiling.
There are two types of wiring installation: open and hidden, and for each type, you can choose a specific method of attaching wires to the wall. Below we will consider in detail all the existing mounting methods, as well as give the pros and cons of each of them.
outdoor wiring
For installation of open wiring, the cable is attached to finished walls with decorative trim. Most often, this type of wiring is used in wooden houses and buildings on summer cottages as well as in garages. For fastening wires directly to the walls, the following devices are used - cable channels, clips or special porcelain insulators. Let's take a closer look at each of these materials.
Cable channels
Today it is widespread the use of special plastic channels for fastening wires and cables. Firstly, cable channels have a low price, and secondly, they look neat, and, most importantly, they allow you to fix several wires in one place. For self-assembly wires into cable channels, it is only necessary to fix the plastic box on the wall using self-tapping screws. The manufacturer also produces specialized connections for attaching several cables in one line. After fixing the cable channel, place all the cables in it and close the front cover by simply snapping it on.
Learn how to fix the cable channel to the ceiling and wall
PVC plastic pipes and corrugated tube
Pipes and corrugations for pulling wires in them are produced in the following sizes 16 20 25 32 40 50 mm. They are designed to protect electrical wires and cables from mechanical damage at the stage of repair and operation of the premises, as well as necessary for fire safety.
Fastening pvc pipes and corrugated tube is carried out using clips and iron staples of identical size.
To stretch the VVGng 3x1.5 cable to a length of 1 meter, you will need a corrugation of 16 diameters and clips of 16. Measure the required length of the corrugated tube and cut it with a knife, there should be steel wire inside. After that, attach one end of the steel wire to the VVGng 3x1.5 cable, and the other end to a rigidly fixed base (heating pipe, etc.).
Stretch steel wire from the side of the cable and, holding the corrugation, pull forward, and the cable will begin to be pulled inward. When the cable comes out of the other end of the corrugated tube, the steel wire can be cut off.
For cables of a different section, select the corrugation so that the cable can easily pass inward and not break it, but if this happens, connect the two pieces and wrap with electrical tape (after tightening the cable).
When using a PVC pipe longer than 10 meters, use a 2mm or 3mm steel wire, after tightening it inside the pipe (after installing the entire route). To make a corner or bypass an obstacle, use the corrugation and couplings identical size. Also, couplings are necessary when connecting pipes to each other.
Clips and iron staples
The use of wire clips or staples is only suitable for wiring in PVC plastic pipes or corrugated pipes.
Iron staples are used when it is necessary to fix a heavy area, because. the clip may not hold.
Fastening clips is faster than staples, because when installing three pipes or corrugations, we need to make holes for each clip, and for three clips there are only two holes, because. clips can be connected to each other.
Clips and iron staples are produced in different diameters 16 20 25 32 40 50 mm.
An example of fastening clips to the ceiling for mounting five pipes or corrugations.
To fix the corrugated tube at a distance of 1 meter or more, the step between the clips should be no more than 60 cm (make sure that the corrugation does not sag between the clips)
The distance of clips for mounting PVC pipes is not more than 1 meter.
When installing one line of PVC pipes or corrugations, clips combined with plugs can be used.
Nail staples
This type of fastening is not suitable for mounting a large cable, they are usually used for fastening television and telephone cables, as well as lines from the Internet.
Hidden wiring
This method of installation of electrical wiring is carried out in strobes, then the wall is covered with plaster, the cable can also be fixed without recessing into the strobe, but then the consumption of plaster will increase. In the walls of a panel house, electrical wiring runs in special channels inside the wall and ceiling, poured with concrete at the factory.
The dowel-clamp is a plastic fastener, it can be used to fix the cable on various surfaces: concrete, brick, foam block, aerated concrete block.
Dowel clamps are produced in the following sizes: 5-10, 11-18, 19-25.
An example of fastening a cable VVGng 3x1.5 with a dowel-clamp in a strobe or without
- Take a hammer drill with a 6mm drill and drill holes in the wall or ceiling in 30 cm increments.
- Straighten the cable so that it lies flat against the wall without twists or kinks.
- Take a dowel clamp size 5-10
- Fasten the cable to the wall with a clamp
Fast drying mortar
This solution includes building gypsum, alabaster. The solution can only be used for fixing cables in the wall gate, because. in other cases it is not appropriate.
The method of fixing the electrical wiring in the gate with alabaster:
- Prepare a cable of the required cross section
- Mix some solution
- Lay the cable in the strobe and apply alabaster in the strobe with a spatula in increments of 40 cm.
Homemade staples
These staples can be made from a flat 2-core cable, a single cable core, or from a coffee can. With the help of brackets, you can fix a large bundle of cable routes.
An example of fastening a VVGng 3x1.5 cable with a 2-core cable:
- Cut a 2-core cable into 7 centimeters
- Make holes in the strobe with a 6mm drill with a 40cm step
- Drive dowel plugs into holes
- Fasten the cut strips of cable in the gate by screwing the screws through the center of the 2-core cable into the plug
- Straighten the cable to be laid and fix it with a 2-core cable
To use one 1.5 mm copper core instead of a 2-core cable, you need to do all the same points except for the 4th one, and instead of it, screw the core onto the screw and screw it into the cork.
Thank you for your attention!
Did this article help you?
Rating: 4.7 out of 5 ( 26 votes)When installing or repairing wiring, you have to mount wires and cables. Also, if you need to install new powerful household appliances, you sometimes have to pull a separate line from. In any case, you have to somehow mount the wires on the walls or ceiling. What can be the cable fastening for each of these cases and we will continue to understand.
General rules
With hidden or open cable installation, indoors or outdoors, there are a few general rules:
Basically, recommendations are everything. They are versatile and easy. The distance can be reduced if necessary. For example, at the turns of the track, fasteners are installed at a small distance from the bend - 5-10 cm. The task is to ensure reliable fixation and prevent sagging.
Methods of fastening to different surfaces
Walls and ceilings are made of various materials having different structure and density. Depending on this characteristic, the method of fastening changes:
Actually, these are all the surfaces that are found inside the house when laying the wiring. But sometimes the cable must also be attached to the pole, for example, when the electricity supply from the pole to the house stretches or to the pipe - when the cable climbs a combustible wall.
To the concrete pillar
TO reinforced concrete pillar The cable is fastened with long black plastic ties. They serve about 5 years.
Mounting clamps can be used sewer pipes, but under them it is necessary to drill holes, which is very difficult. Another option - if there is a ground wire on the pole - a round wire with a diameter of 5-6 mm, then you can fasten it with ties. Another option is to fix strips of metal on the pole - make something like clamps, and attach the cable to them.
In a metal pipe
If the cable climbs the wall of the house in metal pipe, it is simply launched inside. Since fairly solid cables are used for outdoor wiring, its rigidity is usually enough to more or less stay inside the pipe.
From above and below, the pipe is closed with some kind of cork (you can cut it out of foam and then paint it together with the pipe). This plug will additionally fix the position of the cable (do not press it to the edge), and so that it does not move inside the pipe, it is attached to the wall at the exit from it.
To the cable
To attach the cable to the cable, special metal and plastic hangers are used. They consist of two parts - there is a hole for the cable and a larger one for laying cables.
Which is better - metal or plastic? Metal ones are more durable, but take longer to install - you need to tighten the screw. Plastic ones will serve for about 5 years, but they are installed quickly - the “tail” is pulled into the corresponding hole, tightened. That's all.
Fasteners for cable and wires: types and varieties
For any type of wiring and cable installation, the same types of fasteners can be used. It is selected based on the existing conditions, opportunities and tastes of the owners. The main task is to ensure high-quality fixation and not violate the insulation either during installation or during further work and operation. And choose the type of fastening from options. There are quite a few of them - there are special ones that are produced specifically for cables, there are borrowed from other areas, there are home-made ones.
Cable clips
Using clips, you can fix the cable on the wall, ceiling, on the floor. You just have to choose the right design, and there are a lot of them. Fastening the cable with clips is a very popular method - it can turn out very neatly and almost imperceptibly. This is if open wiring is supposed to be laid.
Clips for cable installation are metal and plastic, and different shapes. The simplest are in the form of a bow, which has holes for self-tapping screws or dowels on one side and the other. They are all good, but installation requires drilling two holes, and this takes a lot of time.
There is an option that allows you to withstand the fire gap when installing the power cable on combustible surfaces (pictured left). This fastener is fixed with one self-tapping screw to the surface. It is good in that, if necessary, threads can be added to the same fasteners. To do this, you do not have to remove it, you will need to unscrew the screws holding the upper part of the clip.
The third option is a kind of loop from a strip of metal. To install it, you first need to bring the cables inside, then align the holes and fix it on the surface.
All these clips can be used both on the wall and on the ceiling. But when laying a large number of threads on the ceiling, they are inconvenient - too many mounting holes are required. They are made of metal, part is then painted - so that the fasteners stand out less during external laying.
Plastic clips are mainly used for fixing cables in corrugated hoses. There are they different sizes under various diameters corrugations. They can be installed both individually and assembled in lines - for more accurate installation of large bundles of wiring. This type of clips is used mainly for hidden gaskets, but if the corrugation is laid outside, then it is more convenient to fix it with their help.
Dowel clip
More inconspicuous during installation is the dowel-clip. This is a curved strip of plastic with characteristic branches at the ends, which, due to the force of elasticity, will hold the fasteners in the material of the wall or ceiling. The shape of these products is available for round and flat cables of various sizes. But you can’t fix serious cables with them - they are too small. But they look very neat on conductors of small sections, including television, telephone and Internet.
They are easy to install: a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled, a conductor is inserted into the clip, the ends are tucked into the hole and inserted with force. A really good option - quickly mounted, you look neat. Mainly used for open wiring.
Dowel-screed
Another option for quick cable attachment is a dowel tie. It is made of non-combustible self-extinguishing plastics, allows you to quickly mount cable lines. Can be used for both surface and concealed installation.
Dowel-screed - quick and convenient way fix the cable to concrete, brick and other surfaces
There is a coupler with a detachable and one-piece lock. The detachable lock allows you to change the number of wires if necessary. The installation method is the same as for a conventional dowel. The difference is that the dowel here is also plastic.
Cable ties with dowel platform (KSP)
Another option for quick installation. It consists of a dowel with a thread and a platform with a coupler attached to it. First, a dowel is installed, a platform with a screed is screwed onto it. Wires are attached to the finished track.
KSP - cable tie with mounting platform for dowel
Material - non-combustible plastic, color - gray, use temperature - from -45°C to +85°C. Can be mounted on concrete, brick and wood surfaces.
Clips (staples) with a nail
An excellent option for attaching the cable to dense surfaces - wood and its derivatives, plaster. On the side of the plastic bracket there is a hole into which the carnation is inserted. The shape of the brackets is round rectangular - for conductors of various shapes.
Fastening the cable with such brackets is quick and not conspicuous. Most often, small wires are also attached - television, telephone, for the Internet.
U-shaped staples from a stapler
Even the smallest staples and clips are still quite noticeable. There is a way to make fasteners almost invisible, at least in some cases. If available, wires and telephone cables can be attached to wooden surfaces or plaster with special brackets. They have long legs and a rounded back. There are special stapler staples designed for cable installation with plastic limiters(middle picture). They do not allow you to transfer the wire, which happens when working with conventional staples, if too much force is set on the trigger.
A good way is high speed - just one click on the stapler lever and the staple is already installed. In an hour you can fix a decent footage. Another positive moment- fasteners are hardly noticeable, during dismantling, very small holes remain in the wood, which are also almost invisible. With stucco and chipboard, OSB is somewhat more difficult - damage can be greater, however, they are still less noticeable than from nails, even the smallest ones.
The disadvantage of attaching cables with a stapler is significant size restrictions. Such staples are not large. The maximum size for the width of the bracket is 12.5 mm, and even then not in all types. This is more than enough for mounting telephone "noodles", an Internet cable or other similar conductors, but it is far from always possible to fix NYM or NYM in this way. In addition, these cables have more rigid insulation, which requires more frequent installation of staples.
Fasteners for organizing the bundle of conductors
It is not always necessary to fix the wires permanently. In some cases, you just need to arrange the bundles so that they do not get confused. For example, usually a considerable number of wires come to the desktop. There is no need to fix them rigidly - after a while, alterations may be required, and holes remain from the hammered nails, which you can’t disguise on the table. For these purposes, there are various devices. They are more commonly referred to as wire or cable holders.
For example, the same staples, but of a different structure. On the right in the photo above, you see a cable clip with double-sided adhesive tape attached to the back. For attaching to furniture or plastic panels this is very convenient - the glue can then be washed off, and the surface remains intact. In the center is the second option with the same idea, and on the left is the so-called mounting platform for attaching cable ties. First, these pads are attached to the surface - they also have Velcro on the back. Then the bundle of wires is attached to the holes with a conventional plastic tie. Not so convenient and neat (the tails of the ties will stick out), but it can also be used.
Plastic holders for cables on the table
You can see a few more options for attaching the wiring harness in the photo above. The point is the same, the method is different.
Cable trays - for concealed installation of large bundles
When the device has to lay a large number of wires, and they have to be fixed to the ceiling. If we are talking about apartments, then the floors are most often a concrete slab. Drilling a lot of holes in it is hard and long, fastening wires individually or in small groups is not much easier. For such cases, hanging cable trays are used. They are usually made of galvanized wire or perforated metal.
They are available in different sizes, there are several different types fastenings - on studs attached to the ceiling, on “T” or “L”-shaped suspensions.
The installation procedure is as follows: first, the structure is assembled and mounted on the ceiling, then cables are thrown into it. If desired, they can be fixed with ties to the bars, but this is usually not necessary.
In addition, there are metal trays made of perforated and non-perforated metal. The latter are necessary when laying cables inside combustible walls - for example.
The same trays can be used when laying cables in the underground space. But then you can use the perforated version. It also provides excellent protection against rodents and accidental damage.
Homemade cable attachments
Many factory fixtures are relatively inexpensive, but when hundreds of them are required, the sum is considerable. And if the wiring is hidden, it is required, for example, to fix the cable in the strobe, why wall up extra money if you can get by with improvised means. Here's what a homemade cable mount is made of:
These are the main types of cable fasteners that you can do yourself. Surely there are other options - the imagination of craftsmen is inexhaustible, but these are the most common.
Fasteners for concealed gasket
If cables are laid during the repair phase, laying inside walls, floors or ceilings is increasingly being used. Since the result of the work is invisible, little attention is paid to aesthetics. But a lot of attention is paid to reliability and safety - access for rework is very, very complicated. Therefore, the fasteners for the cable when laying inside the wall, ceiling, under the floor are selected reliable. It can be:
For laying large bundles of wires on the ceiling, it is more convenient and faster to use trays, but you can still use the same fasteners. The only bad thing is that you have to drill a lot of holes for installing fasteners in concrete or brick. This is especially inconvenient when working on the ceiling. About how best to optimize the work in this case a little lower.
If the presence of false walls or a finished floor is not expected, recesses are made under the wires - strobes. Wires are laid in them, then they are covered with a solution and after that they are already finishing. From an aesthetic standpoint, it's ideal. From the point of view of operation, it is problematic, since it is almost impossible to replace or repair the wiring without breaking the walls. Nevertheless, the wiring is done just like that, just trying to lay high-quality cables, and even with some margin in terms of power or the number of pairs.
According to the safety rules, in combustible walls (wooden, panel and frame), the cable is laid in a non-combustible sheath or in an all-metal tray. If we are talking about a non-combustible shell, then usually it is a corrugated pipe made of a non-combustible plastic compound. In this case, the sheath itself is attached, inside which the cable is located. This does not particularly affect the choice of the type of fastening, but it does affect the selection of fastener sizes - it is simply necessary that the latches can cover the shell.
Laying cables inside combustible walls is difficult: the requirements are very stringent. They can be made in frame or panel houses, but in timber or log cabins it is very difficult. It is necessary to lay all-metal trays in the walls. At the same time, a large amount of wood has to be taken out, which does not improve the thermal performance and it is not possible to make the appearance ideal. Therefore, in wooden houses they often resort to open method installation - over the walls.
Fasteners for exposed cable routing
For outdoor cabling, about appearance fasteners are subject to more stringent requirements. Since everything is in plain sight, it is necessary to select the most inconspicuous options, or vice versa, the most decorative, for example, retro wiring. This is an extensive topic and it is described in detail. Other options:
There is a choice, but all methods are not ideal, because everyone decides for himself how and with what to fix the cable.
Attaching cables to the ceiling
It becomes necessary to attach cables to the ceiling mainly when installing or and drywall. In the case of drywall, everything is somewhat simpler: there is a suspension system to which you can fasten the wire harnesses with plastic ties. In other cases, everything is somewhat more complicated: you have to drill a large number of holes for fasteners, because they use all the same clips and brackets, and you need to install a dowel under each (if the ceiling is made of concrete slab).
There are several ways to speed up installation:
- Using cable trays (described above).
- After attaching a number of lines to the ceiling, hang small wire harnesses from them with plastic ties.
- Use a long perforated strip of metal for fastening.
