The study of martial arts is an integral part of many people's lives. Someone does it just as a hobby, setting aside a couple of evenings a week for classes. And someone, being professional athlete He devotes all his time and energy to this. But no matter if it's a hobby or a lifestyle, if a person takes combat sports seriously, then he knows how important it is to hone his skills again and again and have prepared striking surfaces.
The best assistant for this is a makiwara (a special device for practicing strikes), which is in any But what if there is no opportunity to go to the gym for some reason, but you need to train? To do this, you can and should make a makiwara yourself. How? You will find the answer to this question in this article - in it we will look at how makiwara is made with our own hands.
To begin with, it is worth saying that in general there are 2 types of makiwara: hanging and standing.
As a home-made portable, the suspended one is very successful. More precisely, its variety is a wall-mounted makiwara. This fixture can be hung on a wall indoors or on a tree or pole outdoors.
What you need to make a good do-it-yourself makiwara:
- Polyurethane (thickness from 5 to 10 mm). Ordinary tourist foam (foam mat) can replace it. This is an impact absorbing material.
- Leatherette or burlap for sheathing. It is better that the material was with a margin.
- Elastic bands (width from 3 to 5 cm) or ropes for fastening (to a tree or pole).
- Velcro for fastening (to a tree or pole).
- 4-8 screws (wall mounting).
- Screwdriver.
Manufacturing process
Our makiwara should consist of three links vertically connected to each other.
Plates are cut out of polyurethane (or a rug) about 20-25 by 35-40 cm in size. Each section can be made from two or three plates. It depends both on the level of your training and on the thickness of the shock absorber.
Next, we take the material prepared for sheathing and fold it into two layers. We arrange it vertically and lay out the column of the plate. We put the same layer of skin on top and sew the front and back parts of it. You can also lay seams between the plates.
Elastic bands are sewn to the lower and upper edges (with Velcro sewn to the edges) or ropes that will be used to secure the makiwara. This option is great for attaching to a tree or pole.
If a wall is used as a support, then simply screw it with screws (if desired, you can nail it with dowels) in the right place. Here is a handmade makiwara for you!
Another option for making a portable makiwara is the following: go to the pet store and buy a cat scratching post. Then you get two rubber bands with hooks at the ends in some hardware store (you can make them yourself) and connect the whole structure together. It turns out a good projectile that can be hung on a tree or pole.
There is another way! You can wrap a small board with hemp (you can put something under it for softness). Then think of a suitable mount, and a do-it-yourself makiwara is made.
And finally, the easiest way is to take an old thick book and fasten it to the wall, tearing off the cover.
A good ready-made portable option is Badyuk-Shilov's makiwara. This is a portable version of the patented Kamerton Shilova makiwara, which is considered by many professionals and martial artists to be the best.
Usually it is called MBSH, or simply Badyuk's makiwara. It is more difficult to make it with your own hands than those that we considered above. But there is a possibility. You just need to learn how it works and choose the right materials.
Still, it is worth remembering that a good and high-quality makiwara, assembled at home with your own hands, can replace the shells available in the gym and will allow you not to lose the precious time that you can devote to training. Constant practice will make your punch technical, powerful and punchy.
The other day, the famous karate master Evgeny Galitsyn published on his Facebook page interesting article about makiwara. Evgeny Borisovich's reasoning aroused keen interest among the Budo audience, many readers ask questions and, not without reason, ask the author when his book will be published. We published several articles by Galitsyn and could not get past the material on makiwara. The article is published without changes.
Evgeniy Galitsyn: "Makiwara...Makiwara???Makiwara!!!"
Makivara is an integral, almost cult training equipment in every more or less serious karate school. Everyone who, in one way or another, came into contact with karate in practice, heard about it.
But for some reason, there is not much information about what, apart from general words about "stuffing shock parts", it is intended, how to make it yourself and how to use it correctly.
Previously, makiwara in karate was understood as a certain, let's call it "traditional" version - a fairly thick board fixed at one (lower) end and vertically installed, usually up to shoulder or chin level, the upper end of which should be wrapped with a coarse rope made of rice straw or just a tied sheaf of straw (actually - "makiwara"), which in the process of working on it became thinner and thinner, and gradually the blows were applied already on a bare board. (I express my gratitude to Gorbunov I-san for the detailed historical reference!)
Then, gradually, the rope or sheaf began to be replaced by other materials - leather, rolled tarpaulin, rubber, polyurethane, etc., but the "general design" remained unchanged: the term makiwara, as a rule, meant a special elastic board dug into the ground (or mounted in the floor) different thicknesses with highlighted working area to strike at its highest point.
Now for consideration (and especially for purchase) quite a lot of different options for makiwara are offered: both the "traditional" vertical and its variety - horizontal, and modern wall-mounted, made on the basis of a car tire, and a compact metal multi-link with a variable interchangeable tension system that requires of its manufacture industrial equipment, as well as makivara on stretch marks, portable portable, even author's makivara - Fedorishen's makivara, Shilov's makivara, etc., etc.
I will not give them an assessment - let everyone do it for themselves, I will talk about how best and how to use makiwara correctly.
If you look at the most common makiwara photos on the net, as well as some videos of masters working on their "traditional" makiwaras, then, as a rule, we see a rather thick wooden board up to 20 cm wide and about 4-6 cm thick, and some even have a thick beam 10-15 cm thick, wrapped in the upper part with a coarse rope or covered with a modern combined "strike" (the term is not mine, taken from a parallel article Volodya Volovikov).
Such makiwaras do exist, but they are suitable only for units who have been preparing their limbs for years to work on such a "unit". But comments on such photos and videos, in which you read that someone is doing 300-500 strokes with each hand on a similar makiwara, moreover, every day, raise a lot of questions ...
If we take a serious approach to talking about working on a makiwara, then we need to start with the fact that each person should choose a makiwara individually for himself, taking into account his current preparedness and his height, and at the same time, he must remember that makiwara should be different for each person. different stages preparation.
Without claiming to present the ultimate truth and describe all existing options, I'll just remind you what and how we (back in the USSR!) were taught by our first TEACHERS, and what we taught and still teach, constantly rethinking the experience of our training.
I also want to warn you that it was not my intention to give a detailed and detailed description methods of working with different "student" makiwaras and at each stage, since it is difficult, if not impossible, in the "correspondence version".
The purpose of the article is, first of all, to warn our karate youth against incorrect recommendations, conclusions and erroneous approaches to training that can be made on the basis of what they see on the net, to help them maintain their own health, and to pay attention to the main important components of makiwara work, often for one reason or another, left unattended.
The beginning of work on any makiwara must be preceded by special preparatory exercises to strengthen the muscles and ligaments of the hand, wrist, forearm, etc. These are push-ups on the fists and fingers, and various jumps on the fists and the back of the hand in a lying position, and exercises with weights (tisi), and exercises on the Sotsky simulator, etc.
As a rule, in parallel with the OFP and SFP, there is an initial study of technology. And only when the student can already more or less correctly perform the technique of hitting "in the air" - work begins on accuracy, on speed (quickness) and strength, and on the actual setting of the strike.
In the presence of necessary equipment and inventory, the training process actively includes work on makiwara, bags, pears, paws, rings, etc.) Thus. in the process of now these specialized trainings, there is a further strengthening and preparation of muscles, ligaments, bones for shock loads, which is inaccessible during "air work", but is essential for performing precise strikes at full strength on various surfaces.
It is no secret that work on each of the listed shells has its own method of use for effective workouts. I will limit myself to a description correct operation only on a traditional makiwara.
There is an opinion that makiwara is intended only for stuffing and hardening of shock parts as the basis for setting a blow. But it is not emphasized that for each stage of training and hardening, various makiwaras of variable hardness are selected, and at each stage a specific method of work is used.
Standard makiwaras, as a rule, are made from boards of durable wood of equal (the same along the entire length) or variable (uniformly or in a special way decreasing upwards) thickness and width, and, accordingly, of varying degrees of elasticity and rigidity.
I want to say right away: the recommendation to work on makivara, which is widespread on the Internet, allegedly coming from oriental masters - "don't be smart, come and hit" - this is the most direct and shortest way to abrasions and skin lesions, bruises of the periosteum, bursitis, traumatic arthrosis and immobility of the fingers and brushes.
In fact, makiwara training should be a long, constant, gradual, strictly controlled and continuous process of "cultivating a beautiful flower", in the role of which is our own physical and psychological health.
Makivars can be conditionally divided into Speed (student) and Power (workshops).
The thickness of the upper part of high-speed makiwaras is different and is selected in accordance with the tasks:
- for primary hardening of leather;
- to seal the subcutaneous tissue, strengthen and harden the periosteum;
- to strengthen the capsule of the impact surface of the joints;
- to strengthen the ligaments of the metacarpus, hand, wrist, elbow and shoulder joints.
Accordingly, the thickness of the upper part of the makiwara under the "strike" varies from 5 mm to 15 mm. Such a "high-speed" makiwara, under the influence of a blow, should deviate from the vertical by a distance of 30 cm to 10-15 cm ...
When working on such makiwaras, relaxed strikes are used to a different (gradually increasing) depth of a correctly “formed”, but not tense, shock part of the hand.
And they start working on high-speed makiwaras necessarily with an almost "non-contact" accuracy training, striking a plasticine ball on the makiwara striker (as a prerequisite for preventing damage to the integrity of the skin) and the primary ability to dose the required force to perform a strike at different depths.
Then the ball is removed and work begins with blows to tighten the skin - precise blows are applied with a depth of 1-2 cm, then - to strengthen the periosteum - blows with a depth of 4-5 cm, then - to strengthen the joint capsules - blows with a depth of - from 5 to 10 - 15 cm...
Such a sequence of work has, on the one hand, primarily the formation of a psychological readiness to hit a hard object, gradually strengthening the striking surfaces, but the main thing is to avoid the formation of a "subconscious brake" that inevitably arises from skin abrasions, bruises and even the first bursitis from blows.
On the other hand, it allows you to approach your "speed barrier" as late as possible.
I emphasize once again that high-speed makiwaras are intended (along with hardening of shock parts) primarily for the late appearance of a “speed barrier” and to prevent the “internal subconscious “brake” that inevitably arises due to fear of bruises and sprains, especially at the initial stages of work.
After working on "high-speed" makiwaras, they move on to working on "power" ones.
Power makiwaras are designed for:
- first of all, to correct the alignment of the relative position of the various bones of the body in order to transfer the maximum force to the shock part and their harmonious interaction when "punching" the resistance of the makiwara;
- for the development of the explosive strength of the muscle groups involved in the impact.
- for "feeling" the inclusion of exactly the right muscle groups in the execution of a strike in certain modes of operation;
- to train "body separation" as an important prerequisite for powerful blows to a given depth. (Those who are "in the know" know that when working on the head and torso, especially on specific internal organs, strikes of different depths and directions of impulse transmission are used for various consequences, etc.). Sometimes, to control this, an additional control pendulum is used on the makiwara as an indicator of the sufficient depth of the “breakthrough”.
The thickness of such power makiwaras is from 5-6 cm at the bottom to 1.5-2 cm at the top. The thickness of the board is “reduced” or reduced from the maximum at the bottom to the required one at the top in a specific way, always from the back of the board, which allows not to lose strength with decreasing stiffness. The individual height of the power makiwara is also approximately to the level of the chin or shoulder. The number of "working zones" or "strike" on it - depending on the purpose of a particular makiwara - from one to 3-5 ...
In addition to following the makivar change sequence, important working conditions are:
- Proper use of a "formed" but not tense fist, direct position wrists, providing the ability to meet the target in any part of the shock trajectory and correctly and safely transfer force;
Training "accuracy" and timeliness of rotation of the fist before hitting the "firing pin" as a condition for protection from abrasions. For accelerated formation of accuracy, I suggest that fans of "extreme" training use practicing hitting a target that causes pain when making mistakes, for example, in the bottom of a tin can or a small saucepan, sized so that a fist can freely pass into it, leaving a space of about 5 mm. In such work, if you make a mistake with the exact centering of the blow, it will be very painful, and pain teaches better and faster than any words.
Warm-up and preparation of the shock part and surrounding joints, and a mandatory "hitch" after the end of work.
It is necessary to observe not only the sequence of work on makiwaras of various thicknesses, but also not to exceed the permissible frequency of work per week for different types strikes (biting, power, ramming ..) and maintaining optimal breaks for recovery after loads of impact surfaces, joints and ligaments - work out each impact part no more than 2 times a week.
During vigorous work on power "workshop" makiwaras, it makes sense to use pharmaceutical preparations (rubbing) and thermal special procedures during the first 2 hours after shock work, as well as adhere to proper nutrition.
I repeat: you can proceed to the development of impulse strikes on a power makivara only after a long preliminary work on high-speed makivaras, which ensured sufficient preparation of the entire articular-ligamentous and musculoskeletal system for heavy loads, and appropriate preparation of the nerves, ligaments and muscles involved in the work.
The criterion for the possibility of starting a transition to a more rigid makiwara can be the subjective absence of pain in the bones and ligaments both when working on the makiwara and after training, with a feeling of some "fullness" and "warm heaviness" in the impact parts after training.
The number of strong blows should not exceed 30-50 for each shock part, and be repeated no more than 2 times a week. For one training it is desirable to "process" no more than 3 shock parts.
Other Mandatory points to be observed when working on makiwaras:
The first requirement is that work on the makiwara is a logical continuation and consolidation of Kihon. There should be no distortion of previously learned correct technique. This is achieved both by the selection of the correct starting positions and the choice of location in front of the makiwara, as well as by isolated work on the individual phases of the blows.
The second requirement is that the strikes must be coordinated with the breath, and the work of the back leg must be coordinated with the correct moment for the end of the rotation of the hips and the variant of the tension of the muscles of the core.
Compliance with the requirements of "separation of the body" to neutralize the "reverse blow" by appropriate relaxation and "alignment" of the body, neck and shoulders, especially in the case of the so-called ramming and "sticky" blow, positioning the body in accordance with the anatomical "rays of force".
Working out different types of activation of the core muscles when working on a makiwara (direct, cross, double, etc.) during an impulse strike;
Remember about the peculiarities of the work of the hips and legs when practicing the "lash" type of strike, and avoiding "dissipation of power" due to the latissimus dorsi.
The correct work of the knee of the front leg - as a condition that "the blow does not go to the floor", the moments of its relaxation and inclusion to maintain stability and balance.
The peculiarity of the work of the knee of the hind leg in the "thigh-impulse" for the coordination of rotational and translational movements.
Work on makiwaras is performed first with single blows from a place, then with a significant movement of the BCT, with various movements, in conjunction with blocks and kicks, etc.
The specifics of such work is beyond the scope of this article.
These are just some of the essential points that are common to all. Details, nuances, accents and corrections in each individual case are made by the coach (teacher) already during the training.
Unfortunately, most people who come to karate training do not have developed kinesthetic self-control abilities, and cannot independently determine the causes of incorrect performance. Sometimes the use of video filming with subsequent analysis, and comparison with video masters, etc. can help someone in this.
But the best (and safest!) option is to train under the "supervision" of a teacher or a good coach who can not only teach, but also help to learn.
Once in my article "Danas, belts, ranks. And who needs all this" (it is still on the network) I wrote:
It is important for every student to remember:
- No teacher, no matter how "great" and famous he is, can teach anyone by force. Forcibly, you can only "train", and only if the student has the necessary prerequisites.
The teacher can only help to learn to those who really want it and are ready to work.
A good teacher will help you choose the most effective and appropriate training methods only for this student, teach you how to analyze successes and causes of failures, and thereby speed up the learning process, help develop the student’s strengths and eliminate his weaknesses.
And only a very good teacher can do all this together, but he can also find words that will kindle in the student’s soul an unquenchable fire of striving for excellence, instill in him unshakable confidence and give strength to overcome any obstacles on his Path, preserving and even improving and your health."
I still sincerely wish everyone to meet on my life path and the Way of Martial Arts of such a good teacher.
From this article you will learn:
- How to make makiwara for karate
- How to use a karate makiwara
- How to choose makiwara for karate
For some reason, modern methods of teaching karate in most cases do not imply the use of a sufficiently effective simulator - makiwara. Meanwhile, every person who is professionally engaged in karate should know that basic exercises with this projectile can deliver a good blow and improve technique. You will learn about what a makiwara for karate is, how to use it during training and whether it is possible to make such a projectile with your own hands from our article.
Why do you need a makiwara for karate
makiwara- a multifunctional device designed for practicing strikes, stuffing impact surfaces, used in contact martial arts. It is believed that the design of the makiwara for karate is of Okinawan, Japanese origin, and the technique of working with it itself came from China - they began to use it during training in Shaolin monasteries, practicing strikes on trees and logs dug into the ground. Thus, the monks sought to harden certain parts of the body and strike.
Many developers are trying to complicate and improve the design of existing simulators, to make their own unique contribution, which will bring fame and good profit. In those days, when your dinner depended on defeating the enemy, few people thought about the reconstruction of shells. And makiwaras were practically the only assistants in karate training.
The systematic application of many blows to the makiwara for karate was the most effective exercise to strike: the fist was strengthened; the body gets used to the loads; the body is maximally adjusted to the impact. In most cases, the presence of a karate makiwara near the house and a couple of learned kata were already considered prerequisites for the education of a future master.
Some people think that the karate makiwara is only for stuffing the striking surfaces. According to others, training with it, you can not develop anything other than the power of impact. And only a part understands that correct technique working with this projectile allows you to work out many components of a really powerful blow.
We propose to consider these aspects in order, but we will make a reservation that they are all equally significant:
- hardening and stuffing of impact surfaces;
- formation of stabilization of the links involved in the impact (shock links), functional stabilization of the shock link;
- constructive stabilization of the percussion link (anatomical deformities, often associated with compensatory hypertrophy or tissue replacement);
- development of the optimal position of the body and its parts in space to achieve maximum impact force;
- formation of a sense of distance for delivering a powerful blow;
- development of skills to maintain the force of impact throughout the reception due to proper coordination between the muscles and within them;
- development of the skill of kiming a blow not on the surface of the target, but at some distance from it (in depth), but at the same time not replacing a controlled blow with a blow with a carry;
- developing the ability to put the whole body into a blow, since it is simply unrealistic to break through a too tough makiwara for karate to the depth of the intended level with a blow only due to the muscles of the limbs;
- teaches to attack with force and immediately sharply remove the shock part of the body in order to have time to prepare for the next technical action.
How is makiwara used in karate?
Masters of past years did not describe in detail the methods of working with makiwara for karate.
For example, Itosu Anko wrote: “The strength of the arms and legs is very important in Tode, and therefore they must be carefully trained on the makiwara. During the exercises, lower your shoulders, spread your lungs, concentrate your strength, plant your feet firmly on the floor, and cling to the ground with your toes, lower your internal energy (ki) to the lower abdomen (seika tanden). Do the exercise for each hand at least a hundred or two hundred times.
When extending the right arm during a strike, the fist should be turned down inside. It should be noted that you need to start turning your fist in the second part of the path from the chest to the makiwara.
It is necessary to strike the makiwara for karate with the large knuckles of the index and middle fingers. So, with a blow, the strength of which is approximately 80%, the hand should be withdrawn with one hundred percent force.
Let us describe an approximate methodology for working with makiwara for karate for a beginner athlete.
Preparatory stage
First, try one technique that allows you to improve intramuscular coordination and, as a result, the power of impact.
To begin, stand in front of the karate makiwara at the final point of impact (press the striking surface of your fist against the striker). Straighten your arm, rest the heel of your back foot on the floor so that your fingers dig into the coating (Ki expands forward, perpendicular to the striker). The hip should be ready to complete the release of force/kime.
ATTENTION! You can do such an exercise only after warming up the muscles well, otherwise the risk of injury is very high. You can stretch the body with several repetitions of an isometric exercise, which is similar in shape to a strike.
Now try alternately left and right hand deliver 10 hits/drops in a karate makiwara without lifting your fist from the striker.
Check out the list of the most common mistakes to avoid repetition:
- before the blow, the fist breaks away from the striker and, picking up speed, crashes into a makiwara for karate;
- the blow is reproduced due to the muscles of the arm, which is bent at the elbow;
- during the impact, the shoulder blade is separated from the back - keep the muscles of the chest and armpits in good shape;
- the pelvis falls forward during the impact (reason: there is not enough structure, the stomach tenses untimely or its muscles contract slowly, which can lead to infringement of the intervertebral discs of the lumbar region) - try to keep the muscles of the abdomen and buttocks in good shape;
- the pelvis pulls back during the strike (reason: the desire to hit with the shoulder often entails falling through) - keep tension in the muscles of the abdomen and buttocks;
- the heel comes off during the impact (reason: the desire to hit the shoulder ballistically), which leads to a violation of the structural chain, and since the strength of the chain is equal to the strength of the weakest link, the impact force will be commensurate with the strength of the calf muscle.
Control yourself: with a full effort, the leg comes off the floor by 5 mm. The structure of the body remains the same.
First stage
Those who are just starting to learn karate should first learn on a soft projectile. We don't mean padding your karate makiwara with soft foam, you just need to choose a board with minimal rigidity.
Take the back stance of kokutsu-dachi, the front palm should touch the striker of the makiwara for karate, the palm or fist (depending on the school: we have a palm in priority, and in Setokan - a fist) of the back hand - to the side (floating ribs). Place the foot of the back foot on the line of attack / strike. The forearm of the back hand should be axially directed towards the striker of this projectile, but sometimes schools require that the forearm be kept parallel to the axis of the body (pressed to the side).
The back hand (right or left) strikes the seiken-giaku-tsuki. The beginning of the action comes from the tanden, or, more simply, from the hips (the second principle of investing the body in a blow). Then the karateka moves from kokutsu-dachi (fudo-dachi) to zenkutsu-dachi (front stance), producing the third principle of putting the body into a strike. And the action ends with the final position, in which the fist, shoulder and foot are on the same line.
Some schools teach the strike in the projection of one's own axis (when the hand goes a little inside), however, we believe that head-on collisions should be avoided, so it is better not to linger on the line of attack.
When the striker is touched, kime / force is released, the striker is pressed at least to the depth of the fist (5–7 cm) and the resulting position is maintained (with the striker pressed through) for a second or more (you need to focus on the goal of the training). After that, the hand gradually takes its original position.
Beginner fighters hit the karate makiwara 100 times with both hands alternately (about 10 minutes of leisurely training). At first, strikes (about 10%) are performed easily at a slow pace, but with each touch of the projectile, the impact force should increase. Please note that a light touch does not at all imply bending the striking arm, just the body is not fully invested in the blow. This can be seen from the deflection of the striker of this device. With each successive strike, the makiwara must deviate more until it reaches its extreme point.
Focus on "punching" the target and getting your shot through the target. The main attention should be concentrated on the coordination of your movements. They must all stop at the same time. Avoid looseness! Ki is in the tanden and extends through the arm through the target and through the back leg to the floor.
Vary your strikes by removing your feet from the line of attack and locking them in place.
Do-it-yourself makiwara for karate
In an effort to get in better physical shape and hone your skills, it is not forbidden to use a do-it-yourself makiwara for karate.
Portable makiwara
This is the easiest way to make karate makiwara. To do this, prepare: a tourist rug, some fabric (even worn jeans will do), laces and threads. First, cut the mat into pieces, the size and softness of which depend on the final goal (the size and softness of the fixture).
It is better for beginner fighters to use at least three layers of the mat, and then, over time, gradually reduce their number. Then sew a cover for the future makiwara from the existing fabric, taking into account its parameters. Place the mats inside the cover and sew the free edge (preferably on a typewriter, but you can also manually).
If you want to make a karate makiwara with several sections, simply separate it with seams (for example, if you sew in the middle, you will get two sections), after which you can bend it without much effort and tie it, say, in two layers.
Makivara made from a tire
To make such a karate makiwara you will need: a long board, an old tire, six bolts and nuts, a travel mat or twine, and possibly a chain for attachment.
Cut the board into three equal parts, the length of which will be equal to the diameter of the wheel. Using bolts, fasten one board in the middle of the tire, and the other two on the sides, with reverse side. Attach a rug to the central board or wrap it with twine (depending on the density of the stuffing).
The finished makiwara for karate can be mounted on the wall using boards on the sides of the tire or using a chain (in this case, the boards do not need to be attached). The main advantage of this projectile is that it will spring regardless of where it is fixed, which is an important factor when setting up a strike.
classic makiwara
Necessary components: a flat board, string or a tourist rug, a few bricks. Nothing complicated: dig a small hole, partially immerse a board in it, reinforce it with bricks and bury it. Attach a mat to the board or wrap it with twine. We also advise you to cover the board with a primer so that it does not get damp in the ground and the makiwara for karate will serve you for a long time.
Makivara for karate: features of choice
Makiwara-paws for karate is a projectile that is intended primarily for practicing hand techniques. When choosing them, be guided by the goal that you want to achieve through further work with this projectile.
If you need to strike, then you should look at passive and heavy paws with high inertia.
Only by working with such a model, you are guaranteed not to injure the hands of the one who will hold your paws - the padman.
Heavy makiwara karate paws are also good because they allow you to fully feel the feedback. While practicing the blows, you will definitely feel good resistance and recoil. Thanks to this, you will be able to better control your technique - important aspect when placing a strike.
It is desirable that at first the structure of the paw allows inflicting powerful blows with bare hands, even for inexperienced users.
In this regard, the paw should not be too rigid. It is better that it be large, thick and soft enough.
If you need to work out exactly tactics on the makiwara paws, the resistance of the projectile to the strike is not as significant as in staged work. That is, paws in this case can be chosen much easier and harder. But keep in mind that you will work on them both protected and with your bare hands.
Let's talk about the shape and size of the projectile. A variety of options are allowed.
staging paw should choose enough big size. Of course, professional fighters can also use a small projectile to work out accuracy in a powerful blow. But beginners to this level need to train for a long time.
tactical paws should be small. Only such a projectile will help to develop the necessary accuracy of impact. However, the welt of such makiwara paws must have parameters that allow them to strike and counterattack.
A significant point is the shape of the paw.
It is better if the hitting surface is absolutely flat. Thus, when placing a fist (especially with an unprotected hand), it will be possible to feel the points of contact and the angles of application of force.
In turn, the padman, by changing these angles, can very effectively "train" the fighter, correctly "bring" the fist to the target. This is worth paying attention to.
The Sportstyle company was founded in 1992 and has been successfully presenting its products and services in the markets of Russia and neighboring countries for more than 25 years.
One of the main activities of the company is the production of frame and tent structures, sports equipment, goods for recreation. Our products are very popular and in demand, among them everything for:
- martial arts. Equipment and sports equipment for boxing, wrestling, wushu, taekwondo. Boxing bags, punching bags, shell gloves, paws, shields, stuffed animals.
- Gymnastics, fitness, aerobics. Gymnastic mats, hoops, sticks, jump ropes, wall bars, horizontal bars, rings, ropes, benches. Platform for sports aerobics.
- sports games. Sports equipment for basketball, volleyball, tennis, ice hockey, football, mini-football, handball, etc.
- athletics. Throwing shields, throwing grenades, hurdles, high jump equipment.
- winter sports. Safety cubes, mats for short track, protective mats for ski slopes.
Well, what kind of karateka does not know about this miracle projectile ?. And it strengthens the tendons, and strikes, and fills the fists ... And even kicks can be practiced on it. No modern paws that have similar names will replace it.
It would seem - what is difficult? I took the board. Wrap one end of it with rope. Screwed the second to the floor - and it's in the bag. But that's in theory. But in practice?
In practice, everything turns out a little more complicated.
Which board to choose? What sizes? What to make a soft pad - striker? And how to fix it? To the floor or to the wall? And what?
Now I have answers to most of these questions. It so happened that the Dojo that I opened this summer (), in addition to the main hall, has an additional, projectile hall. And of course, the idea to equip it with makiwaras came to me immediately.
First, we will answer first question:
What to do?What tree to take?
What's the first thing that comes to mind? Go to the hardware store and take any board you like. What is the result? And in the end, it will not bend and just break. But hardwoods are just what we need. A thin hardwood board will bend and not break.
Hardwoods include: oak, ash, teak. And alas, you won’t be able to buy such a board in a hardware store. Boards for makiwara in my room, I could only get an acquaintance. Several beech boards for makiwaras were handed over to me by Evgeny Borisovich Galitsyn, from those that have survived from the equipment of his hall with makiwaras since Soviet times. Some of the boards were obtained from furniture production.
Question number two - what size?
Thickness first. It should be from 1.3 cm to 2.5. A board thicker than these sizes stops bending. Hitting such a makiwara is similar to hitting a wall. You can stuff your fists, but you can’t put a punch.
And what to do if your board is too thick? I answer. She just needs to be sharpened. "Mr. Planer" comes into play. The procedure is not easy and not fast. And of course the planer must be electric. Otherwise, the procedure can take a very long time.
The board must be grinded at an angle, in ascending order. Make 2 cm on one side, and 1.3 cm to the edge. Looking ahead, I’ll say that this is exactly what Shureido branded makiwaras do. The base is thicker than the top.
Height
In general, there are no difficulties here. If you are making makiwara for yourself, then simply stand in a Zenkutsu dachi stance and straighten your fist forward. Approximately this will be the desired height. If makiwara is made in the hall, then either there should be several of them, under different height students, or its height should change. The latter is extremely difficult to do. It should be possible to unscrew the board and lower it deeper. In general, this option is almost impossible to do at home, so just forget about it.
How to fix?
This is perhaps the most interesting question. The makiwara is usually attached to the floor. For this, a special platform is used: a steel plate with four holes for fastening, and in the center a slot with sides, where, in fact, the board is inserted (see fig.).
Well, now the actual question:
Can this be bought at a regular hardware store?
Of course not. Can you cook this yourself? Probably yes, if you are a welder or you have a friend who can do this. How much will such work cost? I have no idea. But I don't think it's cheap.
Is there a way out? While looking for a way out, I came across this product:
"Bar support open" It is called "Bar support open". This is a fastener for building a wooden house. Sold at any hardware store. If you drill holes in the lower part, then with four bolts this product is perfectly screwed to the floor. The board is attached to the back simply with bolts and washers. If you undertake to use this mount, then pay attention to the fact that it gives a width limit. A wide makiwara, more than 10 cm, can no longer be done.
A few words about the striker. In general, it is not difficult to make it. Of all the materials that I have used, in my opinion, either thin travel mats or just linoleum are the best. Linoleum with a thick base is especially well suited: 6 - 8 mm. It must be fixed with a solid side to the board. And .. you can stop there. For myself, in general, more for aesthetic purposes, I wrapped the striker with leather. I just bought an old Turkish raincoat on Avito. Looks great!
Summing up
- Board, oak. WxTxH 10x2x130cm - 1pc
- Linoleum 25×25cm
- Open beam support - 1 pc.
- Leather 25×25 cm
- Anchors and washers for fixing to the floor. 10×100mm, 4pcs
- Bolts and washers for fixing the board 10×20mm, 4 pcs
Tool:
- Perforator and impact drill 10×120 mm
- Electric planer
- Drill and drill for 10 wood
- Wrench 10
- Hammer
- stapler
- Scissors
Price:
- Open beam support ~ 300 r.
- Leather coat ~ 500r
- Linoleum - 0r
- Anchors, washers and bolts ~ 200 rub.
- Board ~ 1000 rub.
Total:~2000 rub
Makivara… Such a mysterious word, more and more frequently heard among sports fans, and especially karatekas, since recently. What is this - makiwara?
First, let's look at where this word came from. Makivara is a special simulator for karatekas, an analogue of a punching bag, which allows you to train punches and increase their power and accuracy. In karate, makiwara appeared in the days of the ancient Chinese imperial dynasties, and has been used in fact since the very creation of karate as such. As we remember, in ancient times karate was not just a sport, but also a way to survive, on which life and health often depended. And it was not uncommon for cases when just one blow determined the winner of the fights. To train such accurate knockout punches, the makiwara was used. Then it was a wooden board installed on the ground, one end of which was dug deep into the ground, and the other was tied with straw. As the fighter's training increased, the amount of straw decreased, and over time, the straw was completely removed, and the fighter practiced hitting the board.
And although more than one century has passed since then, makiwara has not changed. Of course, with the advent of new materials, such as polyethylene foam or foam rubber, straw as a material for creating makiwara is no longer so popular, but in all other respects makiwara has remained the same as it was hundreds of years ago.
Why is she needed? By creating a makiwara at home, you will not only improve your punching technique, but also strengthen your ligaments and tendons, and increase the strength of your bones and muscles. What do we need for this?
So, we need to prepare: polyurethane foam (the material from which rugs are made for hiking trips), tarpaulin, leatherette or leather, several elastic bands, each about three centimeters wide and Velcro.
First, several rectangles should be cut out of polyurethane foam, with sides measuring about twenty and thirty centimeters, respectively. Why do we need them? It is these plates that will take our blows on themselves and absorb them, which will make training with makiwara more comfortable.
Next, you need to take the previously prepared tarpaulin or leatherette, fold it several times for greater strength, and put polyurethane foam plates on the tarpaulin or leatherette. Then we should wrap these plates with the material we use and sew them inside. If you did everything right, you should get a kind of “column” with plates sewn inside.
What is the best for making makiwara? Each of the above materials has both pros and cons. When using canvas to make a makiwara, you run the risk of injuring your hands and scratching the skin on your fists while practicing punching. In addition, when training outside in the rain or if the makiwara is placed, for example, on a wet tree, the tarp gets wet quickly, which, of course, negatively affects the quality of training.
As for leather or leatherette, the main drawback of such material is its price, which is an order of magnitude higher than the price of tarpaulin or burlap.
Now it's time to sew on the rubber bands to attach our makiwara. To do this, we take four elastic bands, each about seventy centimeters long, and sew one elastic band on each seam of the makiwara.
Why do we need Velcro, which was discussed at the beginning of the article? They must be sewn along the seams near the makiwara plate, while trying not to place Velcro on its striking surface. This is important so that during the practice of blows you do not hit the Velcro and do not injure your hands on them. Velcro sewn near the seams will allow us to open the compartments of the makiwara with plates without sewing the seams, which means that it will be possible to replace plates worn out from impacts without violating the overall integrity of the structure.
And finally, it remains to figure out where and how to fix the resulting makiwara. Such a makiwara is attached to any tree, with a trunk thickness of about ten to fifteen centimeters. An important condition: the tree must be flexible and bend slightly from your blows. Checking this is very simple: if the tree, when pressed on it with a hand, bends, then it is suitable for training. Please note that if you ignore this condition, you risk injury to the joints.
