The question of how to make a do-it-yourself bunk bed often appears on the “agenda” due to the fact that standard apartments do not differ in impressive areas and spaciousness. Even if the children in the family have a completely separate room, you should not clutter it up with unnecessary furniture - it is better to leave more free space for playing and sports.
Therefore, for a family in which two or more children are growing up, two-tier construction beds become a real find. And it’s not at all necessary to rummage through online catalogs or run around furniture stores - this one can be made on your own.
Some types and models of bunk beds
Nowadays, in the assortment of stores you can find many models of beds with two tiers, and on their basis it is quite possible to create your own version of a bed with dimensions suitable for specific conditions and specifics of the location and a comfortable staircase. In addition to traditional bunk designs, you can also make a loft bed, which will free up useful space in the room.
If you consider several different options, it will be easier to choose the most appropriate design for your apartment.
traditional model
Similar bunk bed is traditional and has the simplest design of all that can be. It is quite accessible to self-manufacturing and will require a minimum amount of materials.
Such a model is perfect for a children's room and will significantly save useful space in it, which can be used to equip a workplace or a play area. In addition, the design can serve as a good platform for intricate children's games, so it must be sufficiently stable, and in some cases it is recommended to fix it rigidly to the wall at all.
The big advantage of this model is the natural wood from which it is made, which is very important for a child's room. Drawings and detailed description the manufacture of this bed model will be discussed below.
Bed option with sofa
A bed that has a folding sofa on its first tier will save even more free space in the room than a conventional bunk design. If an ordinary bed is arranged on the ground floor, it will be uncomfortable to just sit and watch TV on it, since there is no comfortable backrest. Therefore, in addition to the traditional version of the bunk bed presented above, in the children's room you will still have to look for a place for a sofa or two chairs, which, of course, will take up a fairly large area. Well, if the sofa is built into a two-tier complex, it will serve as a sleeping place at night, and during the day it will create a comfortable corner for sitting or lying down. In addition, when folded, this piece of furniture will not take up a single extra centimeter of space, and when unfolded, it will become a spacious full-fledged bed.
Bed-transformer
To make such a complex on your own, you will have to buy or use an existing one and attach the rest of the structure to it, which, by the way, will be stable and reliable due to the massiveness of the lower tier.
Bed model with drawers
This version of the bunk bed, designed for three beds and additionally equipped with drawers and shelves, will take up a little more space than the usual traditional bed, which has two tiers. However, after all, in a children's room you still cannot do without various cabinets and boxes for toys and educational supplies, for which an attached structure can be used, which at the same time plays the role of a reliable, stable one, leading to the second tier.
And in this version - even three beds and a lot of useful built-in lockers The sleeping places themselves will occupy an area that would accommodate one regular bed. As can be seen in the illustration, the third sleeping place It is a retractable structure that hides under the mattress of the first tier for the daytime period.
Thus, three children will be provided not only with sleeping places, but also with their own drawers and shelves, and besides this, with an excellent play complex, which such a two-tier structure can turn into.
Model with a double bed on the first tier
The bed, which has a double bed in the first tier, can be used in one-room apartment, or in a two-room apartment, where it was decided to allocate one of the living quarters for a living room with a workplace. So, the first floor of the bed is reserved for an adult bedroom, and the second is intended for a child.
This version of the trapezoidal design will take up the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, which is usually reserved for a laid out sofa. For its manufacture, few materials are required, but due to the widely spaced legs and the large massiveness of the lower tier, the bed will be stable and durable.
Bed for a large family
Bunk bed with four beds great choice for families with four or more children. It is more difficult to make this option, and it will require a lot of material, but the room will become spacious, and the bed will look neat along one of the walls.
The design can be modified and increased even up to six beds, if it is installed in the length of the room and another bunk section is added, or two retractable mattresses are arranged under the lower tier.
Loft bed
The loft bed is also used for the purpose of rational use of the usable area in the room and a kind of "disguise" of the bed. This option is suitable not only for small children - it is often chosen for adults, especially if the apartment consists of one room.
This design allows you to use one area of the room for a dual purpose - on the second tier there is a wide and comfortable bed, and the lower platform of the first tier is a fairly spacious office, which provides everything for comfortable work.
An important condition for the arrangement of such a design is its strength, especially if the bed is intended for two people. Usually such a loft bed is additionally securely fixed to the wall.
Children's loft bed
The children's version of the loft bed is a whole complex that includes a table and a closet in which not only toys, but also clothes can be stored. With some reason, such a complex can even be called a small room that will become a favorite place for a child, since most children always try to create their own “secret” corner, building huts and houses out of chairs and blankets.
By making this version of the bed with all the elements necessary for playing and studying, you can solve several problems at once and save on buying furniture for a child for many years, since the complex is suitable for both a five-year-old baby and a fifteen-year-old teenager. Moreover, starting drawing up a drawing, it is quite possible to include existing cabinets and tables in it, which are perfect for the first tier of the structure.
Upon completion of the work, all elements of the loft bed are combined common color, which will be in harmony with the design of the entire children's room.
Production of beds with two tiers
Further in the publication, the manufacture and assembly of two different models bunk beds - "classic" type and loft beds. However, many structural elements and their assembly principles are exactly the same, and in order not to repeat themselves, these nuances will first be shown separately, using the example of an ordinary wooden bed. If these principles are learned, then the creation of the second tier will no longer be difficult, of course, taking into account certain features.
The principles of high-quality assembly of a wooden bed
In order for the product to turn out neat, it is necessary to accurately manufacture and process all the details. The instruction table below contains illustrations in which the master uses professional tools - they greatly speed up and simplify the work. However, the same operations can be carried out with an ordinary tool, which is in almost any good, "handy" owner. Of course, you will have to make a little more effort, and production will take more time, but still it is possible.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | So, all boards must be planed, their surfaces perfectly aligned and adjusted to the desired size. This illustration shows the manufacture of the side panel - the side panel of the supporting structure of the bed. |
 | In order for the transverse boards on which the mattress will be laid to have reliable and strong supports, well-finished bars are fixed to the sides. |
 | On the side panel, along the line of gluing the timber, carpentry glue is applied. Then the glued element is laid on it. The beam is well pressed and pulled together with clamps in several places. After the glue dries, the parts are fastened with self-tapping screws through the holes drilled “under-sweat”. |
 | Very important point is the manufacture of side racks-legs, since a high load falls on them. In the future, the side and end panels of the bed will be fixed to these elements. Therefore, they are usually assembled from two layers, one of which is the main one, and consists of a whole bar. The second layer is assembled from separate elements located at a certain distance from each other. |
 | This distance depends on the width of the drawer, the edge of which will be installed in the resulting groove. Separate pieces of timber are first glued according to the markings on a solid part, and then “under-sweep” holes are drilled in them for self-tapping screws. |
 | Another point that causes difficulties is the creation of curved forms on some details, for example, in the manufacture of semicircular headboard and footboard backs. In order to avoid mistakes, and not to draw extra draft lines on the wood detail, it is recommended to make a paper template from which the form is transferred to the board with neat dashed contours. |
 | Then, a flexible plastic bar is taken, which can be bent along the bend of the cut, and a fine curvilinear cut boundary is already drawn along it. |
 | Next, the board is cut along the marked line using an electric jigsaw. This photo shows a professional stationary machine, but it is quite possible to use a hand tool. |
 | After that, the cut line is processed with a manual or stationary milling cutter, which will round the edges and save them from protruding wood fibers. In the same way, all the boards necessary to create elements for the head and foot are cut and processed. |
 | When all the parts necessary for assembling the bed are made, they should be tried on and the necessary markup should be made. |
 | Further, connecting dowels are made or purchased ready-made. They can be round or flat as shown in this illustration. |
 | Finished dowels are laid out on the parts to be connected. At the same time, it will be possible to visually estimate how many of them will be required. |
 | In places where holes for installing dowels will be drilled, marks are made with a simple pencil. It is easier to drill holes for round dowels by picking up a drill right size. If flat dowels are used for connections, then several holes are drilled side by side with a drill, which are then combined with a chisel or cutter. |
 | The dowels are inserted into the holes, while without glue, since the structure must first be pre-assembled to make sure that there are no distortions. |
 | After that, bed racks are put on the free ends of the dowels. For complete subsidence of parts during assembly, rubber or wooden hammer(kiyanka). |
 | Having made the connections of the parts of one of the sides of the back, proceed to the installation of the second rack. |
 | Having collected individual elements bed, it is necessary to pre-assemble the entire “ground floor” structure to make sure that all the parts fit exactly together. |
 | The base boards are laid on the bed frame - this process is carried out to determine optimal distance between them. |
 | When the size of the gaps between the boards is determined, fragments of the bar are cut along it and glued between the boards to the support beam on which the base boards are laid. These elements will allow the boards to be in a given position without shifts, so they are simply laid without fixing the edges with self-tapping screws. |
 | After carrying out all the preliminary operations and making possible necessary adjustments, the entire structure is disassembled and reassembled, but already “tightly”, that is, with the use of glue. |
 | The illustration clearly shows how the bedposts are connected to the headboard panels using dowels lubricated with glue. |
 | The glued bed frame must be pulled into clamps until it dries completely, and then it is additionally fastened with self-tapping screws through the holes drilled “under the hood”. |
 | The illustration clearly shows the segments of the timber, fixed to the longitudinal support shelf of the tsarga - between them the base boards under the mattress will be subsequently laid. |
 | The final connection of the side and backs of the headboard and footboard is made with self-tapping screws. |
 | This illustration shows which cut must be made on the bottom of the baseboard leg so that the bed can be installed close to the wall. |
So, having made all the details that are necessary for a specific drawing of the selected model, you can proceed to independent creation this original piece of furniture, using the shown principles of assembling the main parts and assemblies of wood.
Bunk wooden bed "classic" type
This version of the bunk bed can be called the simplest of all existing ones, which is why it is worth considering.
Transforming bed Mobi
In this figure, the numbers show the main details of the design.
Detail of a bunk bed "classic" type This table shows the dimensions and number of parts, and even for a novice master this data should be quite enough to make them based on the above instructions, and then assemble a bunk bed from them.
| № | the name of detail | Part size, mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. | Vertical racks. | 38×76×1730 | 4 |
| 2. | Outer pads for uprights. | 38×76×1730 | 4 |
| 3. | 38×140×2030 | 4 | |
| 4. | Longitudinal strips for laying frame boards, fixed to the sides with inside(not visible in the picture). | 32×44×1850 | 4 |
| 5. | Headboard/footboard top panels | 20×140×914 | 4 |
| 6. | Headboard/footboard center slats | 20×90×914 | 4 |
| 7. | stair railing | 20×90×1510 | 1 |
| 8. | stairs | 20×64×482 | 3 |
| 9. | Guard rails - cut to size when installing | 20×90×1800 | 2 |
| 10. | Mattress support transverse rails (not visible in the figure), cut in place. | 20×76×1000 | 24 |
| 11. | 20×140×914 | 4 |
Below is an illustrated instruction table, which shows the relative position and connection of all parts of a bunk bed. Based on the diagrams and textual support for them, it will not be difficult to carry out an independent installation.
(Some illustrations show dimensions in inches. Converting to millimeters is easy: 1 inch = 25.4 mm.)
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | This is the side load-bearing part of the bed - the tsarga, designed to hold the transverse lamella boards. Such panels are made 4 pieces, they form the length of the upper and lower boxes of the couch. |
 | This figure shows the principle of assembling the headboard and footboard, which consist of uprights and crossbeams. In turn, the racks are made up of a solid bar and separate segments that close the holes for connecting parts and form a groove for mounting the drawer side into it. |
 | Assembly diagram of the headboard and footboard with detailed details and dimensions. Here you need to pay attention to the fact that in the upper part of the back of the headboard, three separate overlays are fixed to the solid bar of the rack, since the parts of the fence will be fixed between them. For the back of the footboard, instead of three overlays, one whole one is fixed in its upper part. |
 | Assembled headboard and footboard parts. Based on the dimensions given in the figure, it will be easy to mark up and assemble these bed elements. |
 | This drawing shows the details of the stairs and railing of the upper bunk. The location of the three steps is indicated on the ladder rack. When attaching the bottom step to the footboard post, make sure that the fixing screws of the step do not rest against the frame fixing screws. |
 | Now, for the comfort of further work, you need to fasten the headboard and footboard with the lower and upper sides. To do this, they are installed in the gaps left between the linings, and each of their sides is fixed with four self-tapping screws. |
 | When the structure is firmly on the floor, you can proceed with the installation of the handrail of the stairs, its steps, as well as the railings. The elements are fastened to each other, as well as to the headboard and footboard posts, self-tapping screws. After all the elements are assembled into a single structure, it is possible to lay the transverse boards between the pieces of bars fixed on the sides. |
 | The last step will be to finish the joints so that they do not leave a burr. Then it remains only to clean the structure from dust, install it in the right place, put mattresses on the sleeping places - and the bed is ready for use. |
I would like to add that it would be nice to fix the assembled structure to the wall, since children usually use it not only as a sleeping place, but also as a sports complex. In order to avoid unpleasant moments, it is better to take care in advance that the design is stable and safe.
Loft bed
Another bed option that will help save space in a small apartment, even with only one room. As already mentioned, the space occupied by such a bed can be usefully used for various needs.
Loft bed
To make this loft bed model, you will need the following materials:
- Board 50 × 100 × 2500 mm -14 pcs.
- Board 120×25×1000 mm - 13 pcs.
- Board 50 × 150 × 2500 mm - 4 pcs.
- Board25 × 50 × 2500 mm -1 pc.
- Beam 50 × 50 × 2500 mm -2 pcs.
- Bolts 60 mm.
- Self-tapping screws 50÷60 mm.
- Joiner's glue.
From the purchased lumber, it is necessary to manufacture and process the following parts:
| the name of detail | Part size, mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Vertical racks. | 50×100×1650 | 4 |
| End boards of the supporting frame | 50×150×950 | 2 |
| Cross boards at the ends of the bed | 50×100×950 | 4 |
| fencing boards | 50×100×1900 | 4 |
| Bearing side boards of the frame (tsargi). | 50×150×1900 | 2 |
| Longitudinal bars, fixed to the sides from the inside, for laying lamellas (not visible in the figure). | 50×50×1900 | 2 |
| Bearing bars for steps, the edges of which are cut parallel at an angle of 45 degrees. The edges of the boards are recommended to be rounded. | 25×50×200 | 6 |
| Step boards | 50×100×450 | 6 |
| Part of a vertical post located near the stairs. | 50×100×1050 | 1 |
| Side boards of stairs (both ends sawn at an angle of 45 degrees, top edge on one side, bottom edge on both sides of the board), see below. | 50×150×1000 | 2 |
| Boards for sheathing the platform of the podium of the stairs | 50×100×550 | 12 |
| End boards of the platform | 50×100×500 | 2 |
| Boards for assembling a retaining structure under the platform (vertical) | 50×100×950 | 2 |
| Boards for assembling a retaining structure under the platform (horizontal) | 50×100×800 | 2 |
| Cross-lamellar boards to support the mattress (not visible in the picture). | 120×25×1000 | 13 |
The diagram below gives a complete picture of how the finished bed will look like. In addition, it is possible to determine your own dimensions of the structure, since the bed can be larger or smaller than the version shown in the drawing, depending on the height and age of the child, as well as on the size of the room.
Such a design may well be modified into a more compact version; a side platform is not installed, but instead a ladder is mounted, which will take up much less space.
The instruction table below will show the order of work and the dimensions that must be observed during assembly.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | Based on the presented drawing from the prepared boards, the left end part of the structure is assembled. The connection of the crossbeams with the uprights also occurs with the help of dowels, which are planted in the drilled holes on the carpentry glue, and then additionally fixed with self-tapping screws - their caps must be deepened into the wood by 2 ÷ 3 mm. A platform with a ladder will be fixed to this side. |
 | Further, the right end side of the structure is assembled in the same way. It differs significantly from the previous one, as it performs the function of one of the sides of the fence. |
 | The next step on load-bearing boards the frame (tsargi) are glued, and then the bars with delimiting sections of the board 30 mm long are screwed with self-tapping screws, between which transverse lamellas will be laid under the mattress. Next, the end parts of the structure are connected with drawers and fencing boards. All parts are assembled using bolts or dowels and self-tapping screws. If dowels are used, then they must be put on glue. As a result, the inner platform of the bed should be 1000 × 1900 mm in size. After that, lamella boards are laid on the protruding beam - the basis of the bed. |
 | The next step is to assemble the support frame-rack for the podium platform. It must be strong, as a sufficiently large load will fall on it. |
 | The next operation - the platform frame is mounted to the frame, and the whole structure is attached to the bed. To fasten all elements of the podium, it is recommended to use metal corners, which are screwed on the inside of the frame. Here you need to take into account that the design must be strong enough to withstand the weight of an adult. |
 | Further, the platform of the podium is sheathed with prepared boards. It is best to put them on glue, and then fasten them with self-tapping screws, drowning their hats into the wood by 3 ÷ 4 mm, and seal the remaining recesses with a mixture of sawdust and glue. All edges of the boards must be carefully processed to smoothness, so that there is no possibility of earning one or another injury. |
 | The next step is the manufacture of stairs, and it can be called the most difficult of the entire process of building a bed. The boards need not only to be perfectly processed, but also to cut their edges at an angle of 45 degrees, but at the same time the top one is cut off on one side, and the bottom one on both sides. To make it easier to mark the places for fixing the bars under the steps, one board can be attached to the podium in a position in which the ladder will be attached to it. The steps should be parallel to the floor - this can be outlined using the usual building level. Having marked one of the boards, in the same way, with complete symmetry, mark the second one. The cue points will set the direction for drawing lines along which uncut bars are screwed to the boards. Their edges can be trimmed after fixing - exactly at the level of the end of the board. |
 | Further, board-steps are laid and fixed on the fixed bars. To make it easier to work, they first fix one board at the top and bottom - this will give the structure the necessary rigidity. After that, it will be easy to screw the remaining steps. All fasteners must be sunk into the wood, and the holes sealed with glue and sawdust. The finished staircase must be securely fastened to the podium, and then the structure can be carefully tested. After that, all holes, sealed with putty from glue and sawdust, are polished with sandpaper. In the next step, the entire assembled structure, if desired, is painted or coated with a water-based varnish. To make it easy to apply varnish or paint on surfaces, without strong absorption into wood, it is advisable to first cover all the details with a primer on wood, which will create a film by filling the pores of the material. |
This publication presents the most simple designs bunk beds, available for manufacturing even for a beginner. If everyone is not at hand necessary tools for woodworking, or there is not enough confidence that the process of precise processing of workpieces will be flawless, you can entrust this work to professionals by contacting a carpentry workshop, providing the purchased material and dimensional drawings. The master will make all the details, and all that remains is to independently assemble the structure at the place of its installation.
And at the end of the publication - another simple version of the children's bunk bed is shown in the attached video:
Video: how to make a children's bunk bed
Quality and original furniture not only emphasizes the uniqueness of the home, but also allows you to diversify life.
You can make a bunk bed from several types of material: a fairly popular chipboard, timber and edged board, furniture board, as well as an array.
A do-it-yourself wooden bunk bed is made quickly enough, but a lot of effort will have to be invested in it due to a number of features.
Selection of materials before the workflow
There are a number of materials from which a do-it-yourself bunk bed can be made, but in reality only a few are used:
- Chipboard, among others, is especially popular due to its low price and the possibility of extremely fast manufacturing. With skillful work with a jigsaw, problems will not arise, but you cannot make an internal drawing, because. to close it, complex equipment is required, which is installed only in factories. The downside is the color gamut (it is impossible to create a high-quality imitation), as well as small emissions chemical substances into the air in places not covered by piping.
- Edged boards and beams are also very popular, but more and more often as load-bearing elements, while they are rarely used as main ones. Working with them is quite difficult, besides, it can be quite difficult to evaluate the material without prior experience, and only an experienced person can distinguish 17% from 30% humidity. In the presence of lathe timber is gaining particular popularity, because. you can form a very interesting supporting structure.
- Furniture shield among all the most expensive, and you can find it far from every city in the world. To make a do-it-yourself bunk bed, this material fits perfectly, and the strength and environmental friendliness are almost equivalent to an array. Quite well amenable to processing, and you can form a picture even without through holes, which is highly valued by lovers of wood cutting.
- The array is rarely used, because prices are almost always astronomical, although you can get it anywhere. The convenience of this approach lies in the minimum number of parts, as well as their complete uniformity. Working with the material is quite complicated (you need to properly dry, select and process), so without good preliminary experience it is better not to get to work.
The fittings are standard, but it is advisable to resort to galvanized steel instead of aluminum, which often does not look so impressive, but is much more reliable, and this is especially important for the upper tier.
Preparation and main activities
Tools and materials:
- roulette;
- edged board;
- timber;
- bar;
- jigsaw;
- protective composition;
- brush flat;
- screwdriver;
- steel furniture corners;
- furniture screws.
At the very beginning, you need to prepare a drawing of the future workflow. In the drawing, it is desirable to use the minimum number of parts, moreover, it is often simplified during work, because. not all elements can be machined. The dimensions of the bunk may vary depending on the physical parameters of the vacationer, i.e. with a height of 190 cm, it makes no sense to make the bed shorter than 210, while at 160 cm, 180 will be optimal.
In this case, the most inconvenient option will be considered - working with an edged board and timber, because, having learned from the complex, it will be much easier to move on to the simple. First you need to do a complete sawing of the elements, which will then be used:
- timber 60 * 60 mm - 4 pcs. 1800 mm each;
- edged board 25*150 mm - 6 pcs. 1900 mm, 12 pcs. 750 mm and 2 pcs. 1550 mm each;
- bar 25 * 80 mm - 2 pcs. 1800 mm and 6 pcs. 300 mm.
After that, they should be sanded as carefully as possible with sandpaper. Particular attention is paid to the places of cuts so that no burr remains on them, and after grinding is completed, you need to collect all the dust from the wood with a damp sponge (not wet), but do not particularly moisten it.
Then in without fail all items are covered protective layer against moisture and insects. Drying usually takes up to 12 hours, after which you can start working again.
Now you have to assemble a lot of sawn elements into 1 do-it-yourself bunk bed design:
- At a height of 30 cm from the bottom of the bars, a perimeter is formed from edged board.
- Mirrored on top, another 1 perimeter is formed.
- The footboards and headboards are covered with 2 short boards.
- The upper tier around the perimeter is closed with boards, and you only need to leave a platform for the stairs.
- A staircase is being formed.
In order to organize the joint of the board and the timber, you will need a furniture steel corner, 2 screws for each joint. It is this design that will ensure maximum reliability of the entire system during operation, regardless of the mass of the vacationer.
If desired, you can use furniture screws of great length, but for them you first need to drill holes of small diameter, after which you can finally tighten them. Mounting on self-tapping screws is more reliable, but the joints will be visible (it is better to use 2 options in pairs so that the quality is extremely high).
Important aspects in work
Tools and materials for further work:
- PVA and sawdust;
- furniture plugs;
- stain and varnish;
- brush flat;
- rubber pads;
- hammer and glazing nails.
After the bunk bed is made with your own hands, you need to make lying places in it. This will require 8 cuts of a 25 * 40 mm bar along the entire internal length by 2 levels - these will be the sides.
Ordinary screws are used to fix them, but you still need to drill holes so as not to split the wood. The fastening step is only 25 cm with obligatory joints in the corners.
Mattress covers are formed on them from edged boards. To do this, the board is cut to the entire inner width of the bunk and fixed in increments of 10-13 cm. If the step is reduced, then the bed will be too hard, and with an increase, the mattress will fall into the slots. All fixation is carried out on self-tapping screws with a flat head, and the head must be inserted into the board (a groove is cut with a chisel). Otherwise, the mattress may be damaged, which should not be allowed.
All screws visible to the eye must be closed with special furniture plugs that allow metal to merge with wood. If you want to achieve a better result, then you can mix PVA with sawdust (you get an impromptu putty) and carefully tighten the metal with this gruel. In any of the 2 options, the result will be quite good, but upon closer inspection, you can still see the screws.
And now the bed is completely ready, but you can’t rest on it yet. Now you need to cover it with stain and varnish, and then give it 36 hours to dry completely in a ventilated room. You should not be guided by the fact that after 4-5 hours after varnishing, nothing is felt with your fingers, because. harmful chemical compounds will be emitted into the surrounding atmosphere for a very long time.
Before starting operation, rubber heels are nailed to the legs on glazing nails, which will level the unevenness of the floor. Instead of rubber, you can use plastic counterparts, but they will not provide such softness.
Summarizing
Regardless of which drawing was chosen for work, and then the materials, the whole process must be carried out with the utmost care. Because the bed is subjected to stable high loads, you need to choose extremely reliable materials that will last a long time.
If suddenly something went wrong while doing the work, you can always interrupt for a while, after which, having adapted the part to another place, cut off the excess.
Even if there are many unclaimed cuts at the end, you should not get rid of all of them, because. long ones may still come in handy in the future for new ideas.
Often the layout of standard residential premises does not allow to accommodate all residents with decent comfort, especially if there are many children in the family. A multi-level sleeping place will come to the rescue, allowing you to save space and ensure a normal sleep for users. For the design to work long time, learn how to assemble a bunk bed correctly. It is worth noting that the principle of mounting factory and home-made models is almost identical, although there are some nuances.
General assembly principle
Wooden elements used in the construction must be sized and have a smooth surface. To fix the cross bars, side stops (tsargs) are used. During assembly, special glue is applied to them, after laying the boards are fixed with clamps. After the adhesive has dried, the clamps are dismantled, and flush screws are screwed into their place. If desired, the screw head can be masked with furniture plugs or putty. Particular attention is paid to the stability of the device. It must be designed in such a way as to withstand not only the weight of the child, but also his possible pranks or outdoor games. In addition, if a bed is being prepared for a preschooler, it should be built taking into account the fact that the child will grow.
Special requirements in the arrangement of a bunk bed made of wood are imposed on the legs on which the side panels are attached. These elements are best made from hardwood bars. Additional stops are attached to the parts or grooves are cut out. To give the appearance of the design aesthetics, patterns made of thick cardboard are used. It is desirable to make grooves with a jigsaw, which provides the most accurate cut line. All roughness and cuts are processed with sandpaper.
After preparing the components, control measurements are performed, after which markings are applied. If all the parts match the drawing, assembly can begin. Special dowels are used as connectors. The sockets for their installation are marked with a pencil, then holes of the desired diameter are drilled. After fitting, carpentry glue is applied to the ledges and final assembly is carried out.
The bunk bed, the drawing of which is shown below, is assembled in several stages. The glued base is fixed with clips. After drying, it seizes completely on the screws. It is worth noting that the correct fitting of parts is the key to the success of the construction of the entire structure, so disassembly and assembly in the process can alternate many times. With factory elements, it is somewhat easier, since they are adjusted in advance at the factory.
classic model
The assembly of a traditional wooden bunk bed begins with the manufacture of the base. Drawers are made, to which two boards are fixed at a right angle. The current task is to make a box of a rectangular configuration. Support bars are screwed to the ends with self-tapping screws. Planks are placed in the resulting box, on which the mattress will subsequently lie.
The next step is to install the back. They take three boards, the width of which is identical to the dimensions of the bed, complete them with racks in one block. Dowels are also used for this purpose. These parts can be made independently or purchased at a specialized store. In detail, nests are drilled for dowels, the boards are tried on to the bedposts, the corresponding marks are made with a pencil. The elements sit on the glue only after repeated fitting.
Having made the back, they begin to manufacture the legs and their associated parts. The construction of these elements is not much different from the creation of a headboard. The main difference is the number of crossbars. It is important that the top boards of the back and legs are at the same level, as they will serve as a support for the upper floor. How to assemble a bunk bed next? The second level is made according to an identical principle, only it is mounted on horizontal bars and fixed with dowels. After installing the top floor, the bed is reinforced with end posts made of boards.
Final stage
After assembling the entire structure, a ladder is installed. The simplest option is to attach horizontal crossbars to a pair of vertical racks. At the very end of the operation, decoration is performed. For this, a water-based paintwork is suitable. It is harmless to health, which is a key factor in favor of its choice. If the bed is natural wood, a colorless varnish that preserves the natural beauty of wood patterns is quite suitable.
Bunk bed with drawers
For work, you will need plywood shields, wooden bars, wood glue, a drill, bolts, self-tapping screws, a hacksaw or a jigsaw.
The beginning of the assembly is traditional: two mattresses are prepared with wooden boxes, supporting sides, a ladder and a masking sidewall.
The construction of the supporting walls is carried out from plywood panels, which are filled with nitro-varnish. If the height of the partition is 1.5 meters, then it must be at least 20 mm thick. The width is selected depending on the size of the boxes. On the supporting walls, marks are made at the places where the mattresses are fixed, after which holes are drilled. Wooden frames are screwed with chrome-plated bolts.
Peculiarities
If there are no boxes or a wooden frame under the mattresses, a crate is made between the sidewalls. Wooden bars are screwed to the walls with self-tapping screws, on which boards are laid. On the finished crate, the sidewalls are fixed by means of connecting pins and the sidewalls that cover the mattress.
If the bunk bed, the drawing of which is shown below, has solid backs, it is advisable to install a removable type ladder. To assemble it, a shield is attached to the box, connected to sticks in the form of steps. For a model whose supports are made of a pair of boards, it is better to mount a ladder between them. Holes are drilled in the boards 40 mm deep at a distance of 100 mm from each other. Glue is poured into the nests, after which wooden pegs with a diameter of 18 mm are inserted into them, which serve to connect the parts of the back. are made after measuring the space under the bed. They can be made of plywood, pulled together with screws, equipped with wheels in the corners.
"Attic" option
Instructions for assembling a bunk bed with drawers of the simplest type are given above. Next, consider another popular option that can be made with different levels of complexity, depending on the available materials and carpentry skills.
The usual model of this type is a structure that is attached to a wall or ceiling. The device consists of four supports 1500-2000 mm and a berth. First you need to create a drawing, carefully calculating the working dimensions.
Assembly
How to assemble a loft-type bunk bed? Stages of work:
- Wooden elements are being prepared (polished, treated with an antiseptic).
- According to the drawings, sockets are drilled for fastenings.
- The bed is made according to standard scheme described above.
- The berth and support racks are assembled into one block. The upper edges of the racks should rise 300 mm above the sunbed.
- Strapping is done from above and below by screwing the support posts of the board and sidewalls, which provide additional rigidity and serve as sides.
- The ladder is being installed.
After assembly, the structure is covered with a transparent varnish.
model with sofa
The assembly scheme of a bunk bed with a sofa allows you to save even more space than the classic counterpart. An ordinary sunbed on the ground floor does not allow you to comfortably just sit, read a book or watch TV, since there is no comfortable backrest. To ensure comfortable living conditions, you will have to additionally install an armchair or a small sofa.
The way out of this situation will be a bunk bed with sides and a sofa. At night, the lower part will serve as a comfortable lounger, and during the day - a comfortable sofa for sitting or lying down. When folded, the design will not take up extra space, when unfolded, turning into a full-fledged sleeping place. For self-production of such a kit, you will need to purchase a sofa, on the basis of which to build the rest of the structure, which is stable due to the massive lower part.
Modifications for large families
How to properly assemble a bunk bed in which the lower floor is a double bed? This design is suitable for a one-room apartment, in which the first tier is given to parents, and the top floor - to the child. The bed is made in the form of a trapezoid, its manufacture is no more difficult than the traditional version. Not so many materials are required, and stability will be more reliable due to the massive and expanded lower tier when unfolded.
Another option is a bunk bed with drawers of four sunbeds. This design is perfect for large families. In manufacturing, this option is more difficult than all the others. Despite the laboriousness and cost of the material, it will be possible to save the usable space in the room as much as possible. In fact, these are two or three classic bunk beds, assembled into one set. You can modify the fixture by creating drawers.
Production material
A children's bunk bed is furniture that is subject to strict environmental and fire safety requirements. The quality of the product largely depends on the material used. Most often, chipboard, MDF or solid wood boards are used to create the structures in question. The last option is the safest and most reliable, since the wood breathes and meets all environmental standards. It is necessary to choose dried material without defects from ash, birch, beech.
However, wood has a rather high cost, so pressed boards are often used to make beds. Chipboard is used to make various types of furniture. However, for a child's bed, this is not the most the best way in terms of environmental safety. An alternative is MDF, boards that are made from dried compressed wood pulp. Natural harmless resin obtained from trees is used as a binding base.
How to make a bunk bed with your own hands? Question for residents small apartments Those who want to organize sleeping places conveniently and on a budget. Not in all cases, the size of the room allows you to place several beds at once, and in this case best solution there will be a bunk bed.
A bunk bed is well suited not only for children's sleep, but also fully meets the needs of adults - the main thing is to take into account the parameters of those who will use the furniture. Such a design can be ordered from professional furniture makers or made by hand using the instructions. We will talk about this in more detail today.
Advantages and disadvantages of bunk beds
In the presence of a very small apartment or hostel, the issue of organizing sleeping places and other areas becomes acute, especially if the whole family has only one room. It is in this case that it is advisable to create a bed on two floors. So, parents can sleep on the first tier, and a child can sleep on the second.
By using a bunk bed, you can achieve the following:
- providing a full-fledged sleeping area for all residents;
- rational zoning of a small room;
- creating a truly unique interior with functional elements.
According to experts, such products have a large number of advantages:
- the opportunity to get additional space that can be used for personal purposes;
- beds of this type have an unusual appearance, so they will become a kind of decoration for any interior;
- if you install orthopedic mattresses in such a design, then it will meet all standards of comfort.
Of course, there are certain disadvantages of such beds. For example, it is not always safe to put a small child to sleep on the upper tier - in this case, the presence of strong, high sides should be provided.
In addition, the stairs must also be safe. It is advisable to mount it at an angle, despite the fact that such a design will take up more space, because if you fall, you can get serious injuries. If an adult sleeps on the second tier, a “flat” staircase is also quite acceptable, but for children it is better to choose the “slide” option.
Varieties of beds in two tiers
Currently, there are a large number of different vertical models of beds that suggest the presence of two beds. Using ready-made projects, you can create any design yourself, exactly according to the parameters of the room. In the table we will consider the most popular variations of beds in two tiers.
Table 1. Types of bunk beds
| View, illustration | A comment |
|---|---|
| This is the simplest version of the two-tier bed design, which is considered standard. It is easier to make everything at home. In addition, you do not have to buy too many materials. Such beds are most often chosen for the purpose of arranging a room for a child, because the additional area can be used for a study or play area. At the same time, it is important to make the frame stable in order to avoid possible injuries, so the bed is often fixed to the wall. |
| This is another no less convenient option for a 2-tier bed, which will save usable space. At standard model the lower bunk beds are not always convenient to use as a seat, since it does not have a soft backrest. When installing this design in the room, you do not have to find free space for the sofa. In addition, the built-in sofa can also be used as another bed, which is why this option is considered universal. |
| Of course, to install this design, you will need a little more free space, but at the same time it is more functional than previous models. Such products are very popular, because all the same, you have to put various cabinets, chests of drawers or racks for storing clothes in the room. Most often, they prefer to make boxes from the steps of the stairs. |
| Such beds are often preferred by the owners of miniature apartments with one room. On the first floor there is a large bed for adults, and on the top floor there is a single bed for a child. The design itself has an interesting trapezoid shape, it will perfectly fit into any type of interior and will save space. Usually such structures are made massive, so they are stable. | |
| The design is a bed with two floors and four beds. It is installed against the wall, so it does not take up too much free space. This model is perfect for a family with four children. You can make such a bed according to the principle of a double bed, but for the manufacture of the structure you will need twice as many materials. If necessary, you can make a six-seater bed of the same type - on the two lower tiers it is possible to install roll-out beds. |
| The bed is often used for both adults and teenagers and small children. This option is especially relevant in a one-room apartment, as well as in a studio apartment. The design involves the use of the upper zone for a sleeping place, and the lower one for installing a table, wardrobe, sofa and other pieces of furniture. So, below you can organize a work or study area. The main condition for the installation of such a bed is a reliable fastening. It is wall or ceiling mounted. Keep in mind that if you choose the second option, you often have to strengthen the ceiling. |
Video - Top best bunk beds
Prices for bunk beds
Bunk bed
What materials are used to make beds?
Both manufacturers and home craftsmen use various materials to create reliable, durable and aesthetic pieces of furniture. It is about what the bed will be made of that you need to think about first of all when planning to buy it or make it yourself.
Table 2. Materials for the manufacture of frames
| Material | Description |
|---|---|
| A durable material that is sometimes used in the manufacture of bed frames of all types. It has good strength, does not deform over time. Of the minuses, one can single out the fact that to create such a design it will be required welding machine and certain skills in working with such material, so you will have to involve a professional craftsman in this process. As a result, the cost of the product will be more expensive, but its service life will last. |
Wood | A popular material that requires careful processing before use - the tree must be dry, protected from fungus, treated from roughness. At the same time, the most durable and durable beds are obtained from the array, which, moreover, can be easily made with your own hands. Of the minuses of wood, only the fact that in the absence of normal drying of the material finished construction can be severely deformed during shrinkage. Otherwise, a wooden bed can withstand even a large mass without any problems. |
| Budget option for creating any furniture design. It should be borne in mind that not always such material can withstand a lot of weight, so it is more often used for the manufacture of small cribs. Of the advantages, one can single out the fact that during the sawing of MDF, dust is not formed. |
| The material is made by bonding wood shavings with synthetic resins, which are not always safe. In addition, chipboard does not have very good strength and can be deformed from heavy loads. The material can only be used for the manufacture of decorative panels and in processed form. |
| This is a durable material that will last for many years without any problems. The plates are assembled from bars of different diameters, and they are suitable for manufacturing various designs furniture. Most often, furniture panels sold in hardware stores are already painted or covered with a “wood-like” film, so that you can assemble an aesthetic design from them that is in harmony with the rest of the furniture in the room. |
Prices for chipboard laminated
Chipboard laminated
Making a bed in two tiers with your own hands
Today we will look at the options for assembling a standard bed made of wood and metal. If the first option fits perfectly into the interior of any apartment, then the second is more suitable for country house. In addition, we will analyze the method of manufacturing an attic-type structure.
Standard wooden bunk bed
This is the simplest bed ever. options, for the manufacture of which you do not have to spend a lot of time.
Before starting the assembly of the structure, it is necessary to prepare the parts - they can be independently marked and cut out of natural wood using an electric jigsaw or ordered from professional furniture makers.
In the process, you will need the following details:
- longitudinal racks;
- bars for racks from the outside;
- connecting elements of the frame (prongs);
- oblong bars for fixing the frame boards (fixed to the supporting sidewalls of the frame from the inside);
- panels for the back and legs;
- details of the stairs;
- fencing strips (adjust to the desired size);
- horizontal slats for fixing the mattress;
- end parts of the base.
In addition, you need to prepare the following:
- electric drill;
- woodworking tools;
- glue;
- impregnating agent for wood;
- fastenings;
- paint;
- finishing varnish.
Prices for the range of Makito drills
Drill Makito
Table 3. Instructions for assembling bed parts
| Steps, illustrations | Short description |
|---|---|
| The photo shows the supporting side of the bed, it connects the transverse boards. In the process of work, you will need four such parts in total. They allow you to form the correct length of the box from the top and bottom. |
| Next, you need to assemble the details of the back and legs according to the diagram. They are side bars and crossbars. The racks in this case are represented by a solid bar and two small segments, due to which the junctions of the parts remain hidden. They form holes for the installation of load-bearing sidewalls. |
| The further process of assembling the back and legs involves fixing three wooden bars to a solid plank, and fencing elements will be fixed between them. At the top of the footboard, only one solid bar needs to be fixed. |
|
| Using this scheme, it is necessary to assemble the remaining elements of the headboard and legs of the bed using fasteners. | |
| The next step is to fix the parts of the fence and the bed on the second floor together. On a solid stand, the place of fastening of the steps is marked. In our case, it is enough to set no more than three steps. At the same time, during their fixation, it is necessary to carefully monitor that their fasteners do not interfere with the screws on the frame. | |
| Next, we need to fix the sidewalls of the bed together with the help of prolegs. They are fixed in the holes that we got thanks to the fastening of the bars. They must be attached on each side with screws. |
| Next, you need to put the structure on its legs and proceed with the installation process of the fence, stairs, steps and handrails. To begin with, all these parts must be connected to each other with screws, and then with the racks of the structure. When the frame is ready, you should lay the lamellas between the planks on the prolegs. |
| When the bed is ready, you need to carefully polish it with sandpaper. At the same stage, the wood can be treated with a special substance to protect against fungus. After that, it will be possible to cover it with a layer of stain and varnish. The main thing is that it should dry well, and then you can already lay the finished mattress. |
Video - Bunk bed for a child
Bunk bed made of metal
Beds of this type are as popular as wooden ones, and compared to other products, they are of good strength. A few decades ago, such structures were installed only in dormitories or for employees in the army, but now they can be found in modern apartments. Of course, for the manufacture of such a product, it is necessary to be able to work with a welding machine.
V classic version this bed has dimensions of 190 × 90 centimeters. The base is made of metal, and the bed itself is made of mesh.
It should be borne in mind that the frame must be larger than the mattress by 100 millimeters in width and 80 millimeters in length. This is necessary so that bed linen can be filled there without any problems.
In the process, you will need the following:
- metal corners;
- mesh according to the size of the frame;
- metal pipes;
- U-shaped profiles;
- a set of keys;
- grinding machine with discs for metal;
- apparatus for welding;
- screwdriver;
- building level.
Prices for popular models of welding machines
Welders
Step-by-step instruction
Step one: we make a frame for the future design. To do this, using a grinder, you should cut the corners to certain sizes. Next, on the end parts of the corners, it is necessary to make cuts, and then fix them together using metal profiles. All these parts must be welded, and then make sure that the frame is even.
Step three: to the same racks it is necessary to attach the railings of the upper floor of the bed. After that, it is necessary to cut out the details of the crossbars from the pipes and weld them opposite each other.
Step four: according to the drawing, the ladder should be from two end parts. To do this, you need to fix the crossbars in certain places. You can install the ladder itself from the side of the legs or the back of the bed.
Step five: when all stages of work are completed, it is necessary to go through the structure with a grinder to mask the welded joints. If there are any signs of corrosion, then they should be cleaned, then the bed should be primed and painted in any color.
Loft bed
This version of the bed allows you to get an empty space below, which is often used to organize an additional area in the room.
In the manufacturing process, you will need the following:
- boards and bars of the right size;
- screwdriver;
- wood glue;
- wooden chopsticks;
- grinder or fine-grained sandpaper;
- wood processing agent;
- dye;
Prices for cordless screwdrivers
Cordless screwdriver
Step-by-step instruction
Step one: collect the side of the bed on the left side. To do this, the transverse boards must be fixed to the vertical posts with glue and chopsticks, which are inserted into pre-prepared holes. For greater reliability, self-tapping screws are also used as fasteners. It is on this side that the end staircase will be installed. In the same way, it is necessary to assemble and fix the other sidewall.
Step two: to transverse connecting strips we attach the bars with self-tapping screws. After that, we connect the end parts with the help of transverse slats and fencing boards. All screws, self-tapping screws must be additionally smeared with wood glue, after which it will be necessary to put lamellas on the bars.
Step three: it is necessary to assemble the supporting frame for the landing, it must be reliable.
Step four: it is necessary to fix the platform frame to this frame using metal corners.
Step five: it is necessary to make the lining of the stairs with the help of boards. They are fixed, as in previous cases, with the help of self-tapping screws and glue.
Step six: collect the details of the stairs. We mark the installation sites of the steps using the building level.
Upon completion of all work, it is necessary to polish the structure with sandpaper or a grinder. After that, the bed is recommended to be treated with a primer, then stain and clear varnish.
Benefits of making your own furniture
Currently, many are inclined to the need for self-manufacturing of furniture, because only by “doing for yourself”, a person will take into account everything, even the smallest details. In addition, thanks to savings on the services of furniture makers, it becomes possible to purchase the highest quality materials in the right amount. In addition, in the case of home-made beds, you can start working as soon as possible, and not wait in line.
It is not difficult to make any of the designs presented above with your own hands. The main thing is to follow exactly the instructions, not to miss important steps. Then the bed can serve you for many years. Good luck!
