The tabletop is the basis for the top of the table. It is she who determines the purpose of this piece of furniture. Wood is the most environmentally friendly material with many additional benefits. It is easy to process and combine with glass, metal, tiles, epoxy and more. A wooden product does not need complex care and, in comparison with natural stone has a low cost. Natural beauty and the opportunity to create exclusive detail interiors are an indisputable advantage over other materials.
Wood selection
Solid wood countertop is strong, extraordinarily beautiful, durable and very expensive. It is used only in premium furniture. It is impossible to make such a product with your own hands at home, without special skills and tools. An ideal replacement for such material will be furniture board (wooden slats or boards glued on both sides with veneer).
Just a few years ago, the name countertop meant the top of the worktop in the kitchen. Today they are also installed in the bathroom as dressing table framing the sink, and even as a desktop in the country.
Whatever the future table is intended for, it must be durable and have resistance to various mechanical and damage. It depends on the right material. For many years of service, semi-hard woods are suitable: cherry, cherry, ash, teak, beech, oak and walnut. Harder wood is not recommended:
- processing complexity;
- high price;
- susceptibility to temperature changes and high humidity.
Masters who have practice working with wood will be interested in assembling a countertop from several different species. Such a surface looks not only rich, but also stylish, original.
Materials and tools necessary for work
Getting a quality product using improvised tools will not work. A novice master will need a planer. It is not necessary to buy it, you can try to rent it. For those who have professional skills in working with wood, a jointer (a long planer for final surface finishing) will be enough.
The complete list of everything you need looks like this:
- cutter manual or automatic (if the future table is supposed to be installed in the country, on the street);
- jointer;
- thickness gauge (for measurements and accurate transfer of the drawing to the material);
- varnish or paint;
- several flat brushes;
- perforator, hacksaw;
- clamps (clamp for temporary fixing of parts);
- furniture board (wood);
- set of drills;
- sandpaper with grain size from No. 3 to No. 0;
- antiseptic for impregnation;
- stain (if necessary);
- pliers;
- hammer;
- joiner's glue;
- screws and nails.
If for the manufacture of countertops not a furniture panel is chosen, but boards, they are chosen of the same thickness. After each stage, drying is performed so that deformation does not occur in the future.
Connection of parts in furniture production
One of the stages of preparation for creating a countertop is the choice of the type of connection of parts. Depending on this, additional fasteners and rails may be needed.
The connection method depends on the subsequent assembly technology. The easiest option is to fasten parts with carpentry glue and wooden dowels(wooden nails). If a large load is assumed on the tabletop, the shields are rallyed with the parts or with each other using grooves that go into each other. Another way is to rally on a plug-in plywood plank (its installation is carried out in special, separate grooves).
It is possible to splice parts using the following methods:
- 1. With the help of plug-in dowels, their diameter is determined as ½ of the total thickness of the board, the length is 8-10 times the diameter.
- 2. Bonding the ends with glue. The most fragile connection. It can be strengthened by additional fixation along the edge or along the plate.
- 3. Angular connection to the "mustache" at an angle of 45 degrees. This increases the strength and area of fasteners.
- 4. Docking "half-tree" using recesses for a long lock. Such notches are made from the ends of the boards.
- 5. When connecting boards along the entire length, a wedge or spike is used with the additional use of glue. Spikes are chosen depending on the model of the tabletop - trapezoidal, flat, round or serrated. This docking is reminiscent of the principle of combining puzzles.
- 6. Docking with plug-in round spikes.
Examples of various spiked (using wedges) connections:
Additional fasteners for countertops
Most weakness in the manufacture of furniture - the corner connection of two (or more) parts. To increase the strength, it is possible to use dowels. They are similar to wooden nails with a cone-shaped end. It is coated with wood glue, then inserted into the prepared holes. The pin is placed perpendicular to the sidewall of the stud, it must pass through the eye and the stud through and through. All protruding ends are cut to surface levels.
The use of dowels is not always justified; in some cases, ordinary nails are applicable. Everyone knows how to beat them. Professionals advise considering the following recommendations:
- 1. When working with especially hard wood for nails, it is worth pre-drilling shallow holes up to half a nail.
- 2. If the parts are fastened without through penetration, the fasteners lag behind each other by 20 nail lengths. When punching through hole the distance is doubled.
- 3. Nails are hammered only perpendicular to the wood fibers. Otherwise, cracking of the boards will occur.
- 4. To increase the fasteners, the nails are driven in at a slight angle.
- 5. If the blanks are knocked down by weight, a large hammer is placed from below for convenience.
Connection with spikes, dowels or nails is non-separable. Therefore, in many cases, it is customary to fasten wooden elements with steel holders (figure eight or zigzag).
Production of carpentry (furniture) panels
Having picked up the wood and familiarized with the methods of connection, they begin to manufacture a carpentry shield. The easiest method is to glue all the elements and reinforce the attachment points. Step-by-step instruction:
- 1. Available wooden boards are cut into bars right size. Cuts are made only at right angles.
- 2. Eliminate defects and irregularities. It is best to initially take a perfectly aligned board.
- 3. Existing distortions are removed using a planer.
- 4. All blanks are selected by color and texture - these parameters should be the same.
How to glue the elements of the shield?
Having prepared all the details, proceed to their assembly (gluing). This procedure is also carried out in stages:
- 1. For gluing the bars, a chipboard sheet is taken, it must be perfectly even.
- 2. Along the edges of the chipboard, planks are fixed with a height identical to the width of the bar.
- 3. Between the planks with a snug fit, the bars are stacked. At this stage, the formation of an attractive pattern is monitored.
- 4. Cracks are eliminated with a jointer.
- 5. Start gluing the bars. For this, PVA, epoxy and polyurethane glue are suitable.
- 6. The adhesive material is evenly applied to the entire surface of the bars. The processed bars are pressed tightly against each other.
- 7. 2 more are laid on the planks fixed on the chipboard. The whole structure is connected with self-tapping screws (so that the resulting shield does not bend).
- 8. The workpiece is set aside for an hour, then it is removed from unnecessary elements (chipboard and strips for fixing). They last another day.
In order for the work to go faster and the glue does not have time to dry, the bars are preliminarily laid out according to the drawing and numbered.
Final processing
The furniture board should not only be durable and strong, but also have an attractive appearance. For this, the final finishing of the material is carried out:
- 1. Initial processing - polishing. Tape is used as a tool grinder. A coarse-grained sandpaper is inserted into it. This eliminates significant defects that have arisen in the manufacture of the shield. The procedure is performed very carefully, consistently, with even circular lines.
- 2. Secondary processing - grinding with a machine with a flat nozzle. This stage is necessary to eliminate small irregularities and defects, to give the shield a perfect smoothness.
Secondary grinding allows you to remove small wooden pile from the surface. Pre-wet the material with water, wait for complete drying. After the procedures, polishing is carried out.
Combination of wood and plastic
Countertops that are subject to active use, located in the kitchen and in the bathroom, are trying to provide additional protection - plastic. It does not deform, retains its shape well, is not subject to temperature changes and humidity. The tabletop itself is made of wood, but plastic lining is added. Plastic for the kitchen is a polymer coating 1 mm thick.
The cladding sheets are attached to the wooden part of the countertop with liquid nails or universal glue. If a sink, hob, sink is built into the countertop, the strength of the joints is reinforced with support bars. Their fixation is carried out from the bottom of the structure across the length, under the equipment.
The wooden middle of the countertop must be pre-treated with an antiseptic. Apply liquid nails to it. The plastic is cut to the size of the countertop, glued to it, and a load is installed for a better connection. The edges are fixed with clamps. If the model was made without lining, an additional plastic strip.
Additional manufacturing features
Having picked up materials and tools, having figured out how to fasten parts, having made a furniture panel on your own (or purchasing it at a hardware store), think through the following stages of work:
- 1. Create a drawing. If a wooden tabletop does not imply complex design, it is enough to take dimensions, draw the wood itself, and cut it according to the markings made. But if the surface has a complex configuration, stretches along one or more walls, has inserts in the form of a sink, and so on, you will have to create a preliminary drawing on paper. The main thing is to make accurate measurements and use them to create a model diagram.
- 2. Specialized bio-impregnation for wood. The composition is based on vegetable oils and oil-wax for wood. Such impregnation allows not only to wipe the surface with a damp sponge, it is resistant to the usual household chemicals. If it is impossible to purchase such a tool, the tree is covered with stain and varnish.
- 3. Additionally, the tabletop is decorated with tiles, glass mosaics, transparent inserts made of epoxy resin, glass, etc.
Make your own table top natural wood difficult, but very real. The main thing is to be patient and not be afraid to learn something new. The result will be original design, suitable for the design of a particular room and convenient for this particular owner.
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An expressive amber color, a warm to the touch surface, an ancient tradition of processing, an affordable price - all these qualities have secured leadership among other interior materials for wood. Dielectric, antistatic properties, as opposed to metal and plastic, are high, which is why wood is always in demand. The wooden countertop in the kitchen made of boards, beams is functional, easy to perform. With proper care, it will last 10 years or more. And how to make a wooden tabletop with your own hands, we will tell in this article. see also Making concrete countertops with your own hands.
Advantages and disadvantages of wooden countertops for the kitchen
Available wood, its properties:
The improvement in properties has led to the creation of wood-based panels without strong torsion in a humid environment, protected by plastic (laminate), and therefore moisture resistant, with a wide range of decorative effects, ease of processing, and low specific gravity. Widely used materials:
- plywood,
- Chipboard, chipboard,
- cement board,
- OSB (oriented strand),
- with the addition of cement and gypsum - DSP, GSP,
- MDF, fiberboard - medium and fine fiber.
Most pressed boards contain phenolic resins and are therefore relatively safe. Natural wood smells like phytoncides - it's useful.
Manufacturing process of kitchen countertops
When making a drawing of a future product, it must be taken into account that in thin places (h \u003d 10 mm) a wooden product splits from impacts. The tabletop should be uniformly massive (especially along the edges and in places of through cuts), with a board thickness equal to / higher than h = 15 mm. The video below will show you how to do it dinner table with your own hands.
Preparation of materials and tools
- The beams of the array are compressed on the glue one by one, allowing each gluing to dry for 24 hours, compression is carried out using clamps. Other options:
- Using studs L = 80 cm and wing nuts,
- Compressive clamp on a comb beam,
- On a bar sawn across the width of the tabletop with sealing with wedges.
The last option is rather primitive, because the jammed bars tend upwards. Only the limit bar screwed on top can resist the parts tearing upwards.
Assembling the array in one step is possible with a sufficiently large number of clamps (for every 40 cm the length of the countertop is a pair).
Cover - manufacturing nuances
Nail with nails (bronze, wooden) “hanging” - a flanged profile bar - simple task. For strength, they sit on glue.
The conditions of the workshop allow the use of a profile cutter of the machine or a guided manual frezer on a bar fixed to the table. The cutter with a curly nozzle creates a decorative profile, as well as ridges and grooves of the edge of the shield with opposite formations on the flange. Hardwood is used for lining: alder, pear, cherry, apple. The edge protected by the flange protects the hands from burrs, giving the tabletop a solid, massive look. On glued type-setting boards, a decorative edging is cut out on the array itself, circling the contour with a cutter.
Processing: product coating
The finished tabletop is polished, varnished. The best varnishes are zapon, oil, oil-acrylic, acrylic, alkyd.
The first smells sharp, but dries quickly. A multi-layer coating with sanding (glass yellow, not graphite gray) sandpaper is acceptable. Tinted acrylic stains are less suitable, as they do not form a thick protective layer. Zapon is applied with a soft natural rag tied to a bar with natural twine. With quick movements, dipping the rags into a metal container to the level of the bar. The rest of the varnishes are applied with a brush, paint-spraying device in 2-3 layers with a mandatory interval for complete drying of each. The thinner the first layer, the more evenly covers the next.
The process is:
- a sheet of plastic is cut with an allowance,
- degrease both bonding surfaces,
- cover the countertop with plastic, placing temporary PVC plastic guides to prevent instant setting,
- press the plastic with an anti-table top, removing the PVC strips (with a plate of the same size) using a variety of clamps along the contour (at least every 20 cm),
- excess plastic is cut off with a circular hand saw along the guide rail through the pressure plate (all 3 layers - countertop + plastic + pressure plate - are cut at the same time).
Due to the fact that an anti-table top is needed, it is better to make 2 pieces. simultaneously. Plastic is not placed on a prefabricated shield - only on a polished array.
Making from a finished furniture board: how to do it yourself
Peculiarities
Save Required Tools
- fine-toothed hacksaw (or circular saw),
- marking tool,
- self-tapping screws h 25 mm,
- screwdriver, drill - drill bit 1 mm,
- roller, glue, guides, compression bars,
- a few clamps.
Manufacturing and assembly
Both surfaces of the sheets are lubricated evenly with glue, stretching them with a roller and a scraper, folded, pressing the edges with clamps, drill holes for self-tapping screws, and screw them in. After the glue dries, allowances are cut along the guides. Edge tapes are fixed with an iron through paper or with an edge temperature stacker.
The nuances of working with chipboard
Plastic is knocked out with hacksaw teeth. To avoid this, it must be cut to the chip layer under the ruler with a shoe knife with two parallel grooves at a distance of 2 mm. The gap between the grooves is picked out with an awl.
How to "refresh" the wood of the countertop?
The old varnish is ground off, the old layer is removed with solvents. Dents are leveled with a grinder, deep cuts are puttied with a restoration mass for wood. Dried, cleaned surfaces are varnished again.
Care and maintenance
In order for the countertop to serve for a long time, it is not used as cutting board, systematically remove moisture, put hot objects on a stand. Chops should be done on a board with a napkin placed under it.
A do-it-yourself kitchen countertop is much cheaper; in addition, it makes it possible to make the product “for yourself”, taking into account the needs and size of the kitchen. Modern countertops come in two types: prefabricated or made from carpentry. Premium furniture is sometimes made from solid wooden plates. But, in order to independently make a countertop for the kitchen, such material is unsuitable, since it is unreasonably expensive and difficult to process.
How to make a countertop for the kitchen? Start by choosing a material. In order for the wooden countertop for the kitchen to be durable and serve for a long time, as source material choose moderately hard woods. Excessive hardness will do a disservice: the wood will dry out or swell from the water. That is, in addition to the hardness of wood, its stability is also important, which allows it to keep its shape.
Oak, cherry, cherry, walnut, teak are considered optimal. Exotic wood is not always superior in quality to the materials familiar to us, but it costs much more.
To make a countertop in the kitchen, you will need:
- wooden boards;
- nails;
- antiseptic impregnation;
- paint or varnish;
- wood glue;
- thickness gauge;
- clamps;
- jointer;
- cutters;
- sandpaper;
- hacksaw;
- drill;
- hammer;
- pliers;
- drill.
To make a tabletop from a joiner's shield, you will additionally need a jointer, a milling machine (it is successfully replaced by a hand mill). In the absence of a cutter, glue the ends of the carpentry shield with groove-thorn heads, placing the spike on the end, and the groove on the edge of the head bar.
You can strengthen the shield in another way - to glue the bottom of the transverse rails included in the grooves. Reiki and grooves of the dovetail system will give the carpentry board increased reliability.
Edge-to-groove connection
A more reliable method of fastening is lining; at the same time, boards with a “comb-groove” connection are taken for the shield. The ridge before the spike has the advantage in that it allows you to evenly distribute the load, which contributes to the strengthening of the structure as a whole. Grooves and ridges are made milling machine or hand cutter.
It is permissible to use a glued rail - the reliability of the countertop will not suffer from this in any way. The boards must first be cut along the edges, and then grooves should be formed using a router. On thick boards, the groove dimensions are 10-15 mm, on thin boards - smaller -6-8 mm. Also, these parameters are determined by the cutter that you are working with. Planing the slats exactly to size will help the surface gage; an easier option is to buy ready-made, the required size. To correctly choose the width of the rail, one must proceed from the dimensions of a particular carpentry board, and the thickness is determined by the dimensions of the groove.
Instead of a rail, plywood or MDF, 6-12 mm thick, is suitable. From this material, blanks of the desired width are cut. The groove is made after the rail is completely ready, since its width is directly dependent on the thickness of the plywood.
If the countertop will be used outdoors, such as in a summer kitchen, consider using a tongue-and-groove board. The assembly is similar to the assembly from a carpenter's shield, but the tongue plays the role of an edge for the groove. The boards are fastened with a transverse beam located at the bottom and self-tapping screws. For an apartment or house, such tables are of little use because of their external massiveness and rudeness, but they will perfectly decorate a summer garden or veranda.
Table top with plastic coating
The task becomes somewhat more complicated if you have to make a small countertop, or one that also serves as a lid for a kitchen drawer? The solid wood here does not look like the best option, because from the temperature difference it rapidly loses its initially neat appearance. It is better to use chipboard, glued with protective plastic. Water and dirt inside the countertop will not let a special edge.
What will be needed for manufacturing?
- Chipboard - 1 sheet.
- Wooden beam (40x40 mm).
- Thin plastic.
- Self-tapping screws (25 mm).
- Drill and drill bits for wood.
- Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
- Clamps.
Plastic is better to choose one that is specifically designed for kitchen furniture. Its thickness does not exceed 1 mm, but, pasted on wooden surface, it acquires rigidity and high wear resistance. Plastic can be replaced with hardboard, or another coating that is close in strength. You also need a chipboard blank.
How to fasten parts correctly
If the finished worktop is small in size, then there is no need to strengthen its design, since the density of the sheet will be quite enough. The height of the quarter for the lining will be 7-8 mm. If you are making a table of considerable size, it is advisable to cut out several parts from the chipboard that serve to reinforce the structure: 2 long ones that are flush with the edges and 2 short ones that serve as end inserts. The dimensions of the parts correspond to the dimensions of the countertop itself.
To increase the reliability of the fasteners, the reinforcing elements are fastened with self-tapping screws, for which holes are pre-drilled. The edges of the edges are covered with wood glue. The attached parts are pulled together with clamps, after which the screws are screwed in, and their caps are sunk into the plate. After making sure that all the elements are securely fastened, the screws can be removed.
Prefabricated worktop cover
To make a lining (protective edge), you will need 4 bars of hard wood - birch or beech. Oak is not suitable, because it is too heavy, and soft wood is short-lived. Bars are better to cut with a margin. For example, for a tabletop measuring 134x80 cm, you will need 4 bars; 2 of them will have a length of 140 cm and 2 bars - 85 cm.
The installation of the lining is preceded by the manufacture of a one-sided comb in all edges of the table top. It is shaped with a hand cutter or circular saw on which special disks for working with laminate are installed.
When using a saw, a sheet of thick laminated chipboard is attached to the guide ruler. Saw setting: height 10 mm, distance from the outer guide along the guide - 10 mm. The bar is installed opposite, at a distance of 33-34 mm from the guide ruler and fixed with clamps. It is designed to be a countertop stopper. After that, you can install chipboard on the edge and work with a saw, removing all unnecessary.
Having completed the cuts in all sections, the fixing bar is removed, and the procedure is repeated from the front side. Thus, a spike-rib is formed, the thickness of which is 22 mm. The inner edges of the edging bars are provided with grooves, the depth of which is determined by the thickness of the spike. For this procedure, you will need a hand router and a 4th cutter with a support bearing. When installing a salary on the edge, the level of parts should exceed the chipboard by 1 mm.
The next step will be marking the edging detail, determining the required length and cutting the ends at an angle of 45 degrees. Then the prepared slats are glued, and in order for them to better grip with glue, they are pulled together with clamps. You can add strength if you connect the lining with the countertop with self-tapping screws, while working with self-tapping screws, you must fulfill several conditions: fasten them dry, sink the caps and close the holes with putty. The last step is gluing the plastic panel.
We hope that the tabletop, made with your own hands, will delight you for many years.
It is difficult to overestimate the importance of the table, both in terms of domestic comfort and any interior design of an apartment or cottage. Moreover, a kitchen without a table loses its functionality, so the table is deservedly considered a necessary piece of furniture for this room. Huge selection various models tables available at furniture stores, does not detract from the desire of some of us to make a table of boards with our own hands - in our own way own project, with personality and charm of a valuable thing self made.
The fact that you can choose any model, the shape of the table top and dimensions, as long as they are comfortable and suitable for the room in which the table will be installed, gives a special charm to the prospect of making a table with your own hands from the boards.
A few examples below will help you make your choice and help in the manufacture of the model that suits you. In addition, drawings on how to make a simple table from boards will help to more clearly present the future design and assembly processes.
Table 1. Sturdy and stable dining table for home
To make this table, we need tools such as a jigsaw, an electric drill, a screwdriver, a grinder. You can, of course, do without some of the above "helpers" by using a screwdriver and a bar with sandpaper fixed on it - just such a replacement will cause an increase in time and effort spent on making the table.
The material for the manufacture of the tabletop is a grooved board, at least 30 mm thick. The tongue provides a tight connection of the boards, increasing the life of the table, since with this method of docking, the likelihood of food residues getting into the gaps between the boards is practically eliminated.
For the manufacture of the remaining elements of the table, an ordinary 50 mm board is taken.
- Boards, if they are not processed, must be thoroughly sanded - in addition to aesthetic considerations, this is required by elementary safety and practicality: a sanded board is easier to paint, and much less paint is required for such a surface;
- Cut out the details of the table:
- Tongue-and-groove boards for countertops, 230 cm long - 6 pcs.;
- Spacer board about 170 cm long;
- Bars for fastening the tabletop (their length must match the width of the tabletop, or be slightly less) - 4 pcs.;
- Bars for legs - 4 pcs., 2 pieces of board for their base.
To improve the appearance of the product, saw the ends of the fastening bars at an angle of 45 degrees, carefully cut the tongues of the outer boards, and slightly round the corners of the table top with a jigsaw.
Table 2. The simplest table for a summer house or gazebo
Perhaps there is nothing easier than making this version of the table from the boards with your own hands, shown in photo 5. Table dimensions: 1200x740 mm, height - 750 mm.
For its manufacture you will need:
- Edged board, smoothly planed 40x140 mm;
- 2 bars 40x60x740 mm;
- 8 confirmations 70-75 mm long; self-tapping screws of various lengths;
- Chisel and planer;
- Electric jigsaw, drill with a special drill for konfipmatov, furniture key, grinder.
The first step is to assemble the countertop by fastening the boards with two transverse bars, placing them at a distance of 120 mm from both ends of the future countertop and using self-tapping screws, up to 80-85 mm long (so as not to reach the outer surface of the countertop). If ordinary boards are used, in the manufacture of countertops it is better to leave small, only 10 mm, gaps of the same width between them: through slots will prevent contamination of the countertop with food residues, without interfering with cleaning and without reducing it aesthetic appeal.
To achieve the same width gaps in the countertop, it is necessary during its assembly to lay a centimeter standard made of lath or other solid material between the boards.
Second step: assembling the table legs. On a sheet of chipboard or plywood, we draw a template - a rectangle with sides of 600mm (width) and 690mm (length). First we make one pair of legs, then the second one in the same way: we lay 2 boards on the template in an X-shape, mark the lines of the upper and lower cuts of the legs, as well as the lines of their intersection - in this place the boards will be fastened together. We saw off the ends of the boards along the marked lines, and at the intersections with a chisel we select recesses 20 mm deep to connect "in half a tree". We fasten the legs with 35 mm self-tapping screws;
Third step- final assembly of the table. The drawing shows in detail how to make this simple table from the boards: thanks to him, the assembly process will not cause difficulties (Figure 6).
Wooden is a stylish and original element, due to which you can add an interesting and functional accent to the kitchen interior.
To date, a huge number of different natural and artificial materials are used for the manufacture of countertops, including stone, plastic, plastic and, of course, wood.
It is the latter material, as well as related woodworking waste, such as plywood and chipboard, that make it possible to make the top of the table yourself at home.
The choice of wood as a material for countertops is quite justified, since this material has a mass virtues:
Of course, for all its merits, the tree has its own limitations. In particular, when it comes to natural material, then it must be said about the high cost of wood. In addition, it is important to choose the right type of wood, since a too hard version can dry out or, on the contrary, swell from strong temperature changes.
reference. In addition, wooden countertops, if necessary, can be quickly and easily restored.
Breed options
As mentioned above, regardless of the type of structure to be installed, to create it, it is necessary to initially choose the right wood. In order for the table you created to be as durable as possible and to be resistant to external influences, preference should be given to hard rock — the best option in this regard will be:
It is these tree species that have the most optimal strength characteristics and are able to effectively withstand the usual differences in humidity and temperature for kitchen premises.
Drawing
Choosing the dimensions for the future countertop, first of all, you need to focus on the size of the kitchen room itself. At the future table, it should be comfortable to both stand and sit, as well as use the furniture installed above its surface. In this regard, the most optimal parameters are:
- length, component from 850 to 900 mm;
- width, which is from 600 to 800 mm.
Accordingly, the length of the table will depend on the initial parameters described above, which may vary depending on the height of the user and the dimensions of the room.
In addition, it is important to decide on the shape - it can be round, oval and rectangular.
Advice. The width of the countertop should be greater than that of the cabinet on which it will be located.
Tools
To make a wood countertop, a novice user will need the following: tools:
In addition, for subsequent assembly, as well as finishing the product, the craftsman may need stain, various antiseptics from pests, wood glue, paint or varnish, and, of course, an application tool such as a paint brush.
How to do?
The manufacturing technology of the countertop varies depending on the source material used in the work. In the event that a board or a straight bar is used, the sequence of work will be as follows:
How to make from a furniture board?
When a furniture board is used in the manufacture of countertops, the work is performed as follows:
- The furniture board is given the required dimensions.
- The inner side of the furniture board is reinforced with wooden bars or slats - thus, maximum structural strength is ensured.
- If it is necessary to install, the mounting elements are installed, as well as the installation of the necessary fasteners.
plastic coating
Regardless of the used countertop manufacturing technology, as well as the type of used wood material, its surface can be cover with plastic- this will greatly improve the performance of the surface.
At the same time, plastic can be used not only in the manufacture of the table, but also if its working surface is damaged during operation.
Today there are a huge number various types plastic, which differ both in size and in their performance characteristics, as well as by appearance. In order to finish the surface with this material, the plastic must be cut in accordance with the dimensions of the table and glued with liquid nails or special glue for mastic.
reference. The use of a plastic coating allows you to hide existing defects and protect the countertop.
Obklad
In the event that wooden boards were used during assembly, then in the process of manufacturing the whole canvas, in order to hide their ends, a special lining is made, which acts as a protective edge.
It is being done from wooden blocks and is installed around the entire perimeter of the countertop.
The lining is attached to the canvas in accordance with the "edge-groove" principle. In this case, the finishing of the lining (grinding, polishing, painting) is carried out simultaneously with the fastening.
In the event that a furniture board is used for the manufacture of the table top, the same principle of edge finishing is used.
Advice. In order for a do-it-yourself tabletop to serve for a long time and please its user, it is necessary to carry out proper care, monitor its cleanliness, avoid excessive mechanical stress and exposure to high temperatures.
Installation
Installing the kitchen countertop is as follows:
- Finished worktop fit on kitchen cabinets and fastened using fasteners or with the help of special tires located on the bottom of the leaf, which must be installed in the holes in the upper ends of the cabinets.
- When installing the countertop, it is necessary to ensure that the distance between the canvas and the wall is respected, as well as between the side edges of the table and adjacent furniture.
- At the ends of the canvas wear special pads, which are fixed with self-tapping screws.
- Further produced sink installation. The places of its connection with the canvas must be treated with a sealant. This will protect the wood from swelling.
- Implemented siphon installation and mixer.
How to paint?
Staining is a fairly important step in creating a countertop, since the paint layer in this case will act as additional protection fabrics from external damage.
Experts unanimously argue that for furniture that will be used indoors, ideal option will become water-dispersion acrylic paints . They are completely non-toxic easy application and fast drying.
Before painting itself, the entire surface of the countertop is treated with sandpaper, and the existing defects in the canvas are primed.
Advice. Those areas that are not planned to be treated with paint must be sealed with masking tape.
The paint is applied evenly, preferably in two layers. After the product is completely dry, it is necessary to go over the canvas again with sandpaper in order to get some surface roughness. After that, the paint is fixed by applying acrylic lacquer.
Photo
If you want to get a decent result, try to make a countertop like in these photos:
Useful video
A detailed description of the process can be seen in the following video:
Conclusion
Original wooden furniture elements, including tables, have not lost their popularity for many years, thanks to their unique external and operational characteristics. Another thing is what to choose really individual option for your interior can be quite difficult, despite the variety of options presented. In this regard, the best solution would be to create a wooden countertop. with my own hands- with a little effort and your own imagination, you can create a truly original and stylish option, which will be a bright addition to a particular interior.
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