Oils that guarantee the possibility of starting down to minus 35 ° C are entirely synthetic and the most expensive. Today, almost all foreign manufacturers have such. Among domestic ones, we found 0W40 oil in only two - Utech from Yukos and AGA from AJA AvtoMag LLC.
Divide the class into groups
Motor oils are divided not only into classes (by viscosity), but also into groups (by quality level). There are several rating systems. The most famous American classification according to API: oils for gasoline engines are assigned the index SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM - the further the second letter is from the beginning of the alphabet, the higher the oil's ability to withstand loads. The European classification ACEA (designations A2, A3, A4) is gaining more and more popularity. The higher the number, the higher the quality level. For diesel engines, other combinations of letters and numbers are used. It is permissible to fill in the oil that meets or exceeds the quality level required by the vehicle manufacturer. This time we decided to compare only the oils within each group, so there were leaders in each of them.
Physico-chemical properties were checked for the requirements of GOST R 51634-200 and SAE j-300 Dec 99, and the quality conformity with the API group was checked using the “Sliding Ring” device (ЗР, 2006, No. 11). According to the “ring” test, points were given: the more there are, the more readily lacquer deposits form on pistons and cylinders. A lot of deposits are bad for a motor, especially a highly forced one.
Viscosity was measured both at 100°C (the oil flow through the calibrated hole per minute was monitored) and at minus 35°C (the shear force in the rubbing pair was determined, that is, dynamic viscosity). If the dynamic viscosity is greater than 6200 MPa.s, the starter is unlikely to turn the crankshaft.
We checked the pour point, at which the oil thickens so much that it no longer drips. For class 0W40, it will, of course, be below minus 35°C. However, at such a low temperature, the motor may not start for another reason, even if it is untwisted.
We looked at the ash content. According to the standard, it should not exceed 1.3% (the less, the better). If the rate is exceeded - wait for the formation of soot.
GOST overboard
Of the 14 purchased samples, two were beyond the requirements of the standards. Tecsint SX oil does not correspond to the declared 0W40 class - in severe frost, the starter most likely will not crank the crankshaft, Excellium went beyond the standard for ash content - 1.48 instead of the permissible 1.3%.
How to choose oil
Having carefully studied the results obtained, we were convinced that no one succeeded in making the best oil in all respects. Therefore, the choice must be approached creatively.
If your car's engine is already worn out, pay attention to the minimum ash content: why pollute? And if the engine is new, it is better to choose oil with minimum score in the column "varnish formation".
Doubt? Then rely on our arrangement, in which we took into account all three parameters (viscosity, ash content, varnish formation) and, having evaluated each in points (from 1 to 5), received a comprehensive assessment. In it, we considered each parameter to be an equal “player”. If any of them seems more important, make an informed choice based on the tables presented.
Doesn't meet standards
1. Agip Tecsint SX
Declared manufacturer - Agip, Spain
Estimated price for 1 liter - 330 rubles.
Probably synthetic; quality group, apparently, SJ, the Russian sticker promises absolutely universal applicability. In fact, everything is quite good, but this is not 0W40!
2 Elf Excellium
Declared manufacturer - T.Lubrifiants, France
Estimated price for 1 liter - 300 rubles.
Oil groups API SJ/CF and ACEA A3/B3. The label promises high technology, the best motor protection. However, the ash content is markedly exceeded.
API SJ/CF Group
6th place
AGA engine synthetic oil
Claimed manufacturer – AJA AvtoMag LLC, Russia
Estimated price for 1 liter - 200 rubles.
Oil groups API SJ/CF and ACEA A3/B3. Performance at +30°C is indicated. And there is also a whole diagram of the frequency of shifts at different levels of waste. The minimum mileage is 21,000 km, and in the new engine - all 30,000 km!
The lowest ash content, excellent frost resistance, low price.
- Lacquer formation is too high - even for the SJ group.
5th place
Liqui Moly Synthoil Energy
The declared manufacturer is Liqui Moly GmbH, Germany
Oil groups API SJ/CF and ACEA A3-98/B3-98. Thanks to the molybdenum additive, it promises to reduce friction losses and, therefore, save fuel. We did not check this, but the promise to protect against deposits was fulfilled honestly!
Very low ash content and excellent cleaning properties for its class
– Viscosity at minus 35°С – on the verge of admissible; high price.
4th place
U-tech System
Declared manufacturer – OOO Novokuibyshevsky Plant of Oils and Additives, Russia
Estimated price for 1 liter - 190 rubles.
Oil groups API SJ/CF. The API certificate is indicated - a rarity for domestic oils. Good characteristics could not spoil the limit - a five-year exposure in the store. Unfortunately, a liter package was not found, but a five-liter canister is inexpensive!
Low ash content, moderate varnish formation, very low price.
- There are oils in our test and thinner (in the cold).
3rd place
Neste City Pro
Declared manufacturer - Fortum Oil and Gas Oy, Finland
Estimated price for 1 liter - 390 rubles.
Oil groups API SJ/CF and ACEA A3/B3. The description is very modest. It does not promise anything special, but it holds the Finnish brand: the pour point is minus 47 ° C. There is a Volkswagen permit and a sign of voluntary certification in Russia.
Very low ash content, excellent frost resistance.
- Average level of varnish formation, relatively high price.
2nd place
Valvoline Synpower
Declared manufacturer - Valvoline Europe, Holland
Oil groups API SJ / CF and ACEA A3 / B3 / B4. A lot of approvals from leading automakers. All promises are true, the engine will remain clean. Oil would be the first, but in terms of low-temperature viscosity it loses to the leader.
Very low varnish formation and ash content.
- I would like to have a lower viscosity at minus 35 ° C.
1st place
Teboil Diamond Plus
Declared manufacturer - Teboil, Finland
Estimated price for 1 liter - 410 rubles.
Oil groups API SJ / CF and ACEA A3 / B3-96. The indication "For all types of modern engines" can be misleading: look at the quality group! As for maintaining cleanliness in the engine - at an average level. But starting in the cold will be the easiest!
Best low temperature properties.
- Quite a high ash content and an average level of varnish formation.
API SL/CF Group
2nd place
Shell Helix Ultra
Oil groups API SL / CF and ACEA A3 / B3 / B4. The reference to the victories of Ferrari in formula 1 is not forgotten. It is told about the special detergents present in the oil. Nevertheless, varnish formation is more likely to match the SJ group. But the ash content is very small.
Very low ash content.
- Medium varnish formation and frost resistance.
1st place
BP Visco 7000
Declared manufacturer - BP Lubricants, UK
Estimated price for 1 liter - 360 rubles.
Oil groups API SL/CF and ACEA A3/B3/B4. As for the unsurpassed engine protection, the manufacturer got excited: the ash content is on the verge of acceptable, varnish formation is average. But you can count on an easy start in cold weather! That's the only reason why it was ahead of Shell.
Good low temperature properties.
- High ash content and medium varnish formation.
API SM/CF group
3rd place
Shell Helix Ultra Extra Polar
Declared manufacturer - oy Shell ab, Finland
Estimated price for 1 liter - 460 rubles.
Oil groups API SM/CF and ACEA A3/B3/B4. Unlike oil without the word Extra, here they really tried to achieve a very low varnish formation. But the pour point is only minus 37 ° C, which lowered the overall rating.
Very low varnish formation.
— Not the best low-temperature qualities.
Declared manufacturer - obviously Castrol, country not specified
Estimated price for 1 liter - 460 rubles.
Oil groups API SM / CF and ACEA A3 / B3 / B4. “Exceeds the highest standards”, “One hundred years of experience”, “Best protection” ... But in fact - varnish formation is above average. With the rest of the parameters - everything is in order.
Very low ash content, good frost resistance
- Strong varnish formation.
1st place
Mobil 1 Arctic
Declared manufacturer - ExxsonMobil, Belgium
Estimated price for 1 liter - 530 rubles.
Oil groups API SM / CF and ACEA A3 / B3 / B4. Tolerances of leading German manufacturers are indicated. The promise of an easy start is true. But the ash content is quite large.
Low varnish formation and good low temperature properties.
- High ash content and high price.
Oils that guarantee the possibility of starting down to minus 35 ° C are entirely synthetic and the most expensive. Today, almost all foreign manufacturers have such. Among domestic ones, we found 0W40 oil in only two - Utech from Yukos and AGA from AJA AvtoMag LLC.
Divide the class into groups
Motor oils are divided not only into classes (by viscosity), but also into groups (by quality level). There are several rating systems. The most famous American classification according to API: oils for gasoline engines are assigned the index SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM - the further the second letter is from the beginning of the alphabet, the higher the oil's ability to withstand loads. The European classification ACEA (designations A2, A3, A4) is gaining more and more popularity. The higher the number, the higher the quality level. For diesel engines, other combinations of letters and numbers are used. It is permissible to fill in the oil that meets or exceeds the quality level required by the vehicle manufacturer. This time we decided to compare only the oils within each group, so there were leaders in each of them.
Physico-chemical properties were checked for the requirements of GOST R 51634-200 and SAE j-300 Dec 99, and the quality conformity with the API group was checked using the “Sliding Ring” device (ЗР, 2006, No. 11). According to the “ring” test, points were given: the more there are, the more readily lacquer deposits form on pistons and cylinders. A lot of deposits are bad for a motor, especially a highly forced one.
Viscosity was measured both at 100°C (the oil flow through the calibrated hole per minute was monitored) and at minus 35°C (the shear force in the rubbing pair was determined, that is, dynamic viscosity). If the dynamic viscosity is greater than 6200 MPa.s, the starter is unlikely to turn the crankshaft.
We checked the pour point, at which the oil thickens so much that it no longer drips. For class 0W40, it will, of course, be below minus 35°C. However, at such a low temperature, the motor may not start for another reason, even if it is untwisted.
We looked at the ash content. According to the standard, it should not exceed 1.3% (the less, the better). If the rate is exceeded - wait for the formation of soot.
GOST overboard
Of the 14 purchased samples, two were beyond the requirements of the standards. Tecsint SX oil does not correspond to the declared 0W40 class - in severe frost, the starter most likely will not crank the crankshaft, Excellium went beyond the standard for ash content - 1.48 instead of the permissible 1.3%.
How to choose oil
Having carefully studied the results obtained, we were convinced that no one succeeded in making the best oil in all respects. Therefore, the choice must be approached creatively.
If your car's engine is already worn out, pay attention to the minimum ash content: why pollute? And if the motor is new, it is better to choose an oil with a minimum score in the “varnish formation” column.
Doubt? Then rely on our arrangement, in which we took into account all three parameters (viscosity, ash content, varnish formation) and, having evaluated each in points (from 1 to 5), received a comprehensive assessment. In it, we considered each parameter to be an equal “player”. If any of them seems more important, make an informed choice based on the tables presented.
Doesn't meet standards
1. Agip Tecsint SX
Declared manufacturer - Agip, Spain
Estimated price for 1 liter - 330 rubles.
Probably synthetic; quality group, apparently, SJ, the Russian sticker promises absolutely universal applicability. In fact, everything is quite good, but this is not 0W40!
2 Elf Excellium
Declared manufacturer - T.Lubrifiants, France
Estimated price for 1 liter - 300 rubles.
Oil groups API SJ/CF and ACEA A3/B3. The label promises high technology, the best motor protection. However, the ash content is markedly exceeded.
API SJ/CF Group
6th place
AGA engine synthetic oil
Claimed manufacturer – AJA AvtoMag LLC, Russia
Estimated price for 1 liter - 200 rubles.
Oil groups API SJ/CF and ACEA A3/B3. Performance at +30°C is indicated. And there is also a whole diagram of the frequency of shifts at different levels of waste. The minimum mileage is 21,000 km, and in the new engine - all 30,000 km!
The lowest ash content, excellent frost resistance, low price.
- Lacquer formation is too high - even for the SJ group.
5th place
Liqui Moly Synthoil Energy
The declared manufacturer is Liqui Moly GmbH, Germany
Oil groups API SJ/CF and ACEA A3-98/B3-98. Thanks to the molybdenum additive, it promises to reduce friction losses and, therefore, save fuel. We did not check this, but the promise to protect against deposits was fulfilled honestly!
Very low ash content and excellent cleaning properties for its class
– Viscosity at minus 35°С – on the verge of admissible; high price.
4th place
U-tech System
Declared manufacturer – OOO Novokuibyshevsky Plant of Oils and Additives, Russia
Estimated price for 1 liter - 190 rubles.
Oil groups API SJ/CF. The API certificate is indicated - a rarity for domestic oils. Good characteristics could not spoil the limit - a five-year exposure in the store. Unfortunately, a liter package was not found, but a five-liter canister is inexpensive!
Low ash content, moderate varnish formation, very low price.
- There are oils in our test and thinner (in the cold).
3rd place
Neste City Pro
Declared manufacturer - Fortum Oil and Gas Oy, Finland
Estimated price for 1 liter - 390 rubles.
Oil groups API SJ/CF and ACEA A3/B3. The description is very modest. It does not promise anything special, but it holds the Finnish brand: the pour point is minus 47 ° C. There is a Volkswagen permit and a sign of voluntary certification in Russia.
Very low ash content, excellent frost resistance.
- Average level of varnish formation, relatively high price.
2nd place
Valvoline Synpower
Declared manufacturer - Valvoline Europe, Holland
Oil groups API SJ / CF and ACEA A3 / B3 / B4. A lot of approvals from leading automakers. All promises are true, the engine will remain clean. Oil would be the first, but in terms of low-temperature viscosity it loses to the leader.
Very low varnish formation and ash content.
- I would like to have a lower viscosity at minus 35 ° C.
1st place
Teboil Diamond Plus
Declared manufacturer - Teboil, Finland
Estimated price for 1 liter - 410 rubles.
Oil groups API SJ / CF and ACEA A3 / B3-96. The indication "For all types of modern engines" can be misleading: look at the quality group! As for maintaining cleanliness in the engine - at an average level. But starting in the cold will be the easiest!
Best low temperature properties.
- Quite a high ash content and an average level of varnish formation.
API SL/CF Group
2nd place
Shell Helix Ultra
Oil groups API SL / CF and ACEA A3 / B3 / B4. The reference to the victories of Ferrari in formula 1 is not forgotten. It is told about the special detergents present in the oil. Nevertheless, varnish formation is more likely to match the SJ group. But the ash content is very small.
Very low ash content.
- Medium varnish formation and frost resistance.
1st place
BP Visco 7000
Declared manufacturer - BP Lubricants, UK
Estimated price for 1 liter - 360 rubles.
Oil groups API SL/CF and ACEA A3/B3/B4. As for the unsurpassed engine protection, the manufacturer got excited: the ash content is on the verge of acceptable, varnish formation is average. But you can count on an easy start in cold weather! That's the only reason why it was ahead of Shell.
Good low temperature properties.
- High ash content and medium varnish formation.
API SM/CF group
3rd place
Shell Helix Ultra Extra Polar
Declared manufacturer - oy Shell ab, Finland
Estimated price for 1 liter - 460 rubles.
Oil groups API SM/CF and ACEA A3/B3/B4. Unlike oil without the word Extra, here they really tried to achieve a very low varnish formation. But the pour point is only minus 37 ° C, which lowered the overall rating.
Very low varnish formation.
— Not the best low-temperature qualities.
Declared manufacturer - obviously Castrol, country not specified
Estimated price for 1 liter - 460 rubles.
Oil groups API SM / CF and ACEA A3 / B3 / B4. “Exceeds the highest standards”, “One hundred years of experience”, “Best protection” ... But in fact - varnish formation is above average. With the rest of the parameters - everything is in order.
Very low ash content, good frost resistance
- Strong varnish formation.
1st place
Mobil 1 Arctic
Declared manufacturer - ExxsonMobil, Belgium
Estimated price for 1 liter - 530 rubles.
Oil groups API SM / CF and ACEA A3 / B3 / B4. Tolerances of leading German manufacturers are indicated. The promise of an easy start is true. But the ash content is quite large.
Low varnish formation and good low temperature properties.
- High ash content and high price.
Most motorists when buying a car are interested in the consumption of lubricants. Can the answer to this common question give an unambiguous assessment of the technical condition of the "iron horse"?
It is generally accepted that increased oil consumption in the engine indicates that not everything is in order with the machine. In the case when the flow rate increases sharply, and topping up is carried out on an ongoing basis, it is clear that the cause should be looked for, inspection, diagnostics and repair should be carried out. Usually the car owner is tuned to the standard indicators determined by the manufacturer, but when he looks at the dipstick and sees an overrun, the first thing that comes to mind is the thought of a breakdown and upcoming large investments. In addition, these are additional costs for car maintenance. Periodically checking the lubrication level should be taken as a rule, but let's look at the causes of excessive oil consumption in the engine.
Where does the oil go?
Increased oil consumption in the engine does not always indicate its deplorable state, in addition, its unchanged level also does not indicate the normal state of the engine. All internal combustion engines must consume fuel and lubricants, the question is how much it takes. There are several reasons for different volumes of consumption, but they can be conditionally divided into two groups:
- staff associated with design feature engine;
- Non-standard, indicating the wear of parts and failures in the settings.
Large-volume internal combustion engines, especially V-shaped ones, are distinguished by increased oil consumption than in small-capacity single-row engines. To prevent dry friction, the lubricant forms on the cylinder walls protective film for lubricating piston rings, respectively, it also burns out in new engines. In general, manufacturers of engines and oils strive to provide maximum protection for rubbing surfaces while minimizing waste.
Lubricant inevitably seeps into the combustion chamber as the pistons and valves move. Inevitably, oil is wasted on the intake through the crankcase ventilation system, crankcase gases carry out a small amount of lubricant. Turbocharged engines require lubrication of the turbine parts. The most banal reason for increased waste: if the lubricant did not burn out, then it leaked out, hence the high oil consumption.
In this article, we will not delve into the diagnosis of leaks, the replacement of oil seals and gaskets, but will focus on waste.
Diagnosing Excessive Oil Burnout
The simplest diagnostic technique to assess lubricant waste is a visual assessment of exhaust gases. If car oil enters the exhaust system, then the exhaust at high speeds is a bluish smoke, the combustion of high-quality gasoline does not give such a color to the gases. For comparison, in case of failures in the injection system, black smoke is emitted from the exhaust pipe, these are already symptoms of another disease.
There is another way to detect the constant burning of the suit over a long period: a black oily formation grows on the edges of the exhaust pipe. You can more accurately determine the ingress of oil into the exhaust system by diagnosing using a gas analyzer.
Assess your driving style. The operating mode of the internal combustion engine directly affects the oil consumption in the engine. When working on high speed the pressure and temperature of the lubricant increases, when heated, its viscosity decreases, therefore, more lubricant seeps into the working cylinders, which leads to increased oil consumption.
Many are mistakenly tied to the consumption rate per thousand kilometers. Operation in the urban cycle is marked by a constant change in speed, frequent starting and stopping of the engine, idle idle, which is different from driving on the highway. Uniform movement at a speed of about 100 km / h in fifth gear and the manner of driving at high speeds with constant overtaking will show different fuel consumption, different waste.
It is much easier to come to the conclusion that the lubricant burns out above the norm than to identify the cause that explains the increased burnout.
The main reasons for motor oil burned out in the engine
- Wrong oil filled. It is not suitable for your engine. If the suit is too liquid, then its leakage into the combustion chamber is inevitable. Viscous oil will form a thicker film, and remain on the inner surface of the cylinders, more "soar" and burn. They cannot boast of properties that reduce volatility, low-quality oil fakes and fakes. I am glad that flushing the engine and changing the oil will help eliminate the first cause. For DVZ with high mileage, it is recommended to change synthetic oil to semi-synthetic, often this helps to reduce consumption. Be sure to follow the recommendations of the car manufacturer.
- Deterioration of oil seals (or valve seals) due to poor-quality rubber, temperature changes or structural failure due to the use of unsuitable lubricants. Valve seals are inexpensive, and their replacement is not very laborious, but this operation significantly reduces oil waste.
- Wear of piston rings. The problem is fixed by replacing them, and this is already overhaul. In some cases, decarbonization helps, that is, a short-term engine load at maximum speed, more often such a procedure can remove carbon deposits from the rings if the car has not been used for a long time. There is a wide offer of special auto chemicals on sale, but sellers will not be able to guarantee a positive result of decarbonization, and they will prefer to remain silent about the effect of additives on motor resources.
- The development of cylinders, namely the wear or damage to their inner surface. In this case, without resorting to an engine overhaul, you can change the oil to a more viscous one and put up with constant topping up, still cheaper than an overhaul. This measure is temporary, and the most correct solution would be to replace the entire engine.
- Due to the destruction of the inter-valve bridges on the piston, the sealing of the combustion chamber deteriorates, as a result of which the pressure of the crankcase gases is injected, and the oil is carried out of the crankcase through the engine ventilation system through fuel injection.
- For turbocharged engines, there is another reason: the increased oil consumption in the engine is affected by a malfunction of the turbine, so repair or replace it.
Good luck, driving without breakdowns and smooth roads!
We want to say right away that it is unlikely that it will be possible to completely remove the waste of oil in the engine. If you have an oil burn in the engine, then you first need to understand what is the rate of oil consumption in the engine. It all depends on the type of engine, but standard internal combustion engines consume on average from one to three liters per 10 thousand kilometers. If you have such indicators, then it’s too early to worry, such oil consumption is considered normal, if more, then there is already a problem and you need to look for and fix the problem. Unfortunately, there can be a lot of reasons, most often the oil in the engine burns, but it can be commonplace from oil seals, gaskets, and due to poor-quality oil filters. But now we'll take a look at everything possible options, due to which the oil in the engine burns and how to deal with this issue.
Engine oil burnout how to determine it?
Determining whether the oil in the engine is burning or not is not difficult. When burned, blue-colored smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe (see photo on the left). Many people think that black smoke indicates that there is a waste in the engine, but in fact it is a faulty fuel injection. If you find blue smoke, you should make sure that there is oil burning in the engine, pay attention to the exhaust pipe. If combustion is present, an oily black coating appears on the edges of the exhaust pipe. It is much more difficult to find out why the oil in the engine is burning. Without opening the engine, it is difficult to understand exactly why the oil in the engine is burning. But before opening, it is recommended to try a special additive that is designed specifically for worn engines. We remind you that it will not be possible to completely avoid combustion! This is simply impossible, since it works in the combustion chamber where fuel detonation occurs. We are constantly asked which one burns less? The answer is simple, more viscous oils burn less, but if your consumption is very high, then this procedure will not help you much. It is also important to remember that the amount of oil burn in the engine depends to some extent on the driving style. As a rule, the lower the speed, the less not only fuel, but also other liquids burn. It must be remembered that each ICE is unique and consumes fuels and lubricants with a different appetite. Let's look at the reasons why the lubricant in the internal combustion engine burns and how to reduce oil consumption in the engine.
Why does engine oil burn?
1. Incorrectly selected lubricants can increase its consumption. Low viscosity fluids will stagnate in the cylinders and burn out, while high viscosity lubricants form a thick film and the top layer will burn out. Each internal combustion engine is individual, in each case the choice of oil is an important and responsible task, if you do not have knowledge and experience, then it is better to transfer the selection of oil to professionals. Getting rid of this difficulty is easy, you just need to replace the fluid with a more suitable one for your car. In this case, it is required to look not only at the viscosity of the purchased liquid, but also at tolerances, and it is also necessary to take into account the year, mileage, brand, engine size of your “car”. Knowing all these parameters, one can choose best option For you. Replacing synthetics with semi-synthetics can often reduce consumption. In this case, do not be afraid, there will be no harm to the motor.
2. Worn valve seals. Replacing the seals is not very difficult, the price of this procedure, as a rule, is quite tolerable. And the waste in the engine can be significantly reduced. The catch is that this malfunction is difficult to identify. If you are familiar with compression, then chances are. But even compression does not always accurately determine whether the seals are worn out or not. You can only find out for sure after replacing the parts.
3. Worn piston rings. Of course, the piston rings should be changed, but this procedure involves opening the engine and most likely it will result in a major overhaul of the engine. Before repair, it is worth trying "decoking". To do this, you need to go to the track and drive 25-30 kilometers by increasing engine speed. It can also be done specifically for such cases.
4. Engine wear. If wear has come, then little depends on us, the power plant wears out in any case. You need to remember about and the only way you can help is to monitor and care for the motor. Caring for an internal combustion engine means changing all consumables in time: oils, filters, etc. Scratched cylinders affect the loss of oil in the engine. Each scratch or scuff affects the oil consumption in a gasoline engine and in a diesel engine, since the lubricant fills these scratches and does not flow out of the scratches and burns out completely. The most interesting thing is that it is these micro-scratches that can affect combustion very strongly. Seizures occur due to dust and dirt entering the "heart" of your car due to the use of low-quality filters. Burnout in this case cannot instantly increase, the engine wears out gradually.
A temporary solution to this situation is to answer the question, which engine oil burns less? We have already said that this is a replacement for a more viscous liquid.
5. High crankcase gas pressure, or the turbine or compressor has failed. A turbine or compressor is a very expensive part and very capricious in terms of the amount of engine oil. Since the turbine does not stop immediately after you turn off the engine, and low-quality oil or a small amount causes oil starvation, which leads to a breakdown of the turbine or compressor. High pressure crankcase gases often occur in used cars. Of course, the turbine can be repaired or a new one can be bought, but this is a very expensive repair. The only solution in such cases is to monitor the oil level, as well as buy high-quality lubricants in the V Garage online store.
Determine without opening the engine why the oil burns hard. But you can always prevent or at least postpone expensive engine repairs. And to do this is quite simple, you need to purchase a filter and just be more attentive to your car.
oil light bulb when the engine is running and there is a sufficient level of lubricating fluid, it is inactive, that is, it does not light up. If it lights up, this indicates that there are malfunctions, such as low level oil in the crankcase, low pressure in the engine oil system (for example, clogged oil filter, the oil pump does not work well), the oil level sensor and some other less common ones have failed. In any case, if the oil pressure light is on or blinking, you must first check the level of the lubricant. If its indicator is normal, then you need to look for the reason that caused such an indication and eliminate it.
What to do when the oil light is on
Now that we have considered the reasons why the oil level light may light up, we can move on to the question of what to do in such a situation. First of all, you need to understand that specific actions directly depend on the reasons why this situation occurred. Therefore, we present the algorithms of actions in the same sequence as the reasons.
Low oil level. The sequence of actions here depends on the situation in which the red oil light is on. The easiest option is that it caught fire in the garage or in the parking lot when the engine was started. In this case, you need to turn off the engine again, open the hood, and use the dipstick to measure the oil level in the crankcase. If it is not enough, then you just need to add lubricant by approximately 90 ... 95% between the MIN and MAX marks ( , this is harmful to the oil system).
While measuring the oil level, the machine must stand on a horizontal surface! In addition, level measurements must be carried out regularly, and not only when the oil light comes on!
It is desirable to add the same lubricating fluid that was filled earlier. To do this, it is better to always have with you in the canister the remains of the oil that was filled during the replacement. Mixing oils is acceptable but not recommended. And if you mix oils of the same viscosity and type, but different brands, this is not so bad, but if you mix oils of different viscosities, and even more different types(for example, synthetic and semi-synthetic oil), then on this composition long time travel is undesirable. At the first opportunity, it is better to replace the engine lubricant composition, having previously flushed it with a special one.
Please note that in some cases it is better not to add, but to completely change the filled oil. First of all, this concerns the situation when it came up according to the regulations.
If the yellow oil light comes on while driving around the city or on the highway and is on all the time, then the actions are similar. It is necessary to stop in a safe place (on the side of the road, parking), wait a few minutes so that the oil cools down a little, and its movement through the system stops. Next, use the dipstick to check its level in the same way. If there is something to add - then you need to do it. If not, you need to go to a car shop or car service as soon as possible and buy (replace) the right engine oil there. However, you need to drive in an easy mode for the engine, that is, at medium speeds and at low speed. If the lamp caught fire on the highway, and the store is still far away, then in the very last resort other oily liquids can be added to the engine oil, such as vegetable oil for food or other similar composition. But, of course, after that, at the first opportunity, such a slurry will need to be drained and flush the oil system.
Clogged or defective oil filter. Here the situation is also quite simple. Required when turned off and cooled down (!!!) engine dismantle the mentioned filter and check its condition. Accordingly, if it is very dirty, then it must be replaced. Each car has a certain mileage, at which, in accordance with the regulations, it is necessary to change the oil filter. In addition, it must be changed with a complete oil change. You can find more information on this in the manual for your car.
In addition, you need to try to buy high-quality filters. Firstly, they are good at removing debris from engine oil (especially if it is also of poor quality), and secondly, they keep a certain oil mass in their volume, which is necessary for the engine to start normally in order to avoid its oil starvation at that moment. . You can use both original filters, the brand of which can be found in the manual, and their analogues. But at the same time, remember that there is always a chance to run into a fake, regardless of whether it is an original or an analogue.
Faulty relief valve. If it fails, you need to dismantle the filter and find the cause of the breakdown. If the spring is really stretched, try to find a similar one and install it in its seat. If the valve is heavily clogged with debris, then it needs to be cleaned, and if there are no other damages on it, then reinstall it. In general, in order to prevent its normal operation, it is necessary to perform the work from the previous paragraph - change the oil filter in time, constantly monitor the condition of the oil and fill in, in fact, high-quality lubricating fluid, without impurities of solid particles. Also, before changing the oil in the engine, it is advisable to flush the oil system.
Faulty level sensor. If the design of the device is mechanical, then you can try to dismantle it and clean it. As a rule, due to dirty oil or other reasons, its slider stops in one place and does not respond to changing circumstances. A situation may arise that the float "drunk" oil and drowned, respectively, it does not show the real level, but is in the lower position, which is perceived by the ECU as a low level or complete absence oils. It is necessary to revise the sensor, and then install it in place. Another option is that the wiring from or to the sensor has frayed, that is, it has a short to ground. Naturally, in such conditions, incorrect signals will go through the wires. If the revision did not help, change the sensor to a new one. If you do not have experience in performing the relevant work, it is better to give the car to a car service for service.
Faulty oil pressure sensor. Here the situation is similar. It needs to be revised. And the performance can be checked with a multimeter and / or pressure gauge. As a rule, if the sensor is out of order, then it only needs to be replaced; unfortunately, it cannot be repaired. In parallel, you need to examine whether it has flown off the contact electrical terminal, that is, whether the sensor is connected to the electrical / signal system of the car, whether signals are sent from it to the ECU.
How to check the oil pressure sensor
To check the correct operation of the oil pressure sensor with your own hands, you will need a multimeter or a test light. The main way to check it is to measure the resistance, but you can verify its performance with a pressure gauge
Clogged oil pump strainer. It must be dismantled and cleaned, then reinstalled. In this case, it is imperative to assess the condition of the oil and the common oil pump. If the oil is dirty and the filter is clogged, both must be changed.
Faulty oil pump. Regardless of its design, it is necessary to check how it works, as well as the operation efficiency. In the event of a malfunction, the pump must be dismantled and attempted to be repaired. If this was not possible, then this node must be completely replaced. When you are not able to repair the oil pump yourself, it makes sense to seek help from a car service.
In this vein, it is possible that the oil pump is working, but its technical parameters are designed to pump oil with a different viscosity. That is, a situation is possible when the car owner filled in engine oil of the wrong viscosity recommended by the automaker. If the lubricating fluid is very thick (more viscous or simply very contaminated), then the pump may not be able to pump it, respectively, the pressure in the system will be less than expected. This will not only lead to dashboard the oil lamp will light up, but also to the operation of the pump in extreme mode, which will automatically reduce its resource and put it at risk of premature failure.
Oil leakage from the system. If you constantly encounter a problem when, then you need to look for the reason where it can go. Each car has a so-called "normal" consumption, which is directly indicated in the documentation. However, if this value is too high, you need to run diagnostics. To do this, you need to inspect the elements of the fuel system, check the condition of the cylinders and pistons, the condition of the cylinder head gasket and the head itself, see if there are oil stains on the engine elements, if the oil is mixed with antifreeze, and so on. Most often, a leak occurs from under various seals and glands. In case you are not able or do not want to do such work, contact a car service for help, the masters will do this work for you.
Significant cylinder/piston wear. Their condition needs to be assessed. First of all makes sense in this case. An indirect, but not the only, sign that the cylinders are significantly worn out is the appearance from the exhaust pipe. This diagnosis is best done in a car service using special equipment. In the event that the motor is really in a pre-repair condition, it makes sense to grind the cylinders and perform the so-called "capital". This will also reduce oil consumption, which means that the oil light on the dashboard will no longer bother.
Punched cylinder head gasket. This is a very dangerous situation, and if it is detected, it is necessary to carry out as soon as possible repair work Since driving with a blown head is very dangerous for the engine, there is a risk that the engine will “knock”, that is, fail.
Rare causes of oil light bulb activation
There are a number of other unlikely reasons why the oil light on the dashboard may light up. In particular:
- Faulty wiring and/or vehicle ECU. In the first case, for example, the insulation of individual wires may be damaged, due to which a false signal to the light bulb will be sent through the wiring. However, in most cases, this situation is monitored by the electronic control unit and it will automatically notify the driver about such a breakdown through the Check Engine lamp (for this you need to have an error scanner such as ELM 327). As for the computer, it may be a banal "glitch", that is, a computer program failure. However, this happens extremely rarely, and it makes sense to check the control unit in the presence of other, more complex, breakdowns. Sometimes on the forums you can find information that the cause may be poor-quality soldering of one or more tracks of the control unit. Accordingly, they need to be soldered, but for this it is better to seek help from a car service, where there is the appropriate equipment and qualified personnel.
- The oil filter was not changed during an oil change. In particular, this can cause the light to come on after an oil change. remember, that the filter must be changed when changing the lubricant. If you have driven quite a bit after the corresponding replacement, then you can replace this unit with a new one. If the mileage is already large enough, then it is better to change the oil again and already together with the installation of an oil filter. A similar situation can occur if the new oil filter was not screwed tightly enough (you need to observe the torque value, and you can find it in the technical documentation for the machine) or be simply defective.
- When starting the engine in very coldy oil light bulb light up for the first few seconds, and then go out. This is due to the fact that at low temperatures the oil becomes very thick and it is difficult for the oil pump to pump it through the system; accordingly, insufficient pressure (and often vacuum) is created in it, which is perceived by the corresponding sensor as a malfunction. However, after a few seconds / minutes, the oil returns to its fluidity and the pressure in the system returns to normal, respectively, the sensor detects this, sends a signal to the computer, and the light goes out. Please note that you should always choose an oil not only in accordance with the recommendations of the automaker (usually he allows the use of oils with several similar viscosities), but also with the operating conditions of the machine. In particular, we are talking about low-temperature viscosity. A similar situation can occur after a long parking of the car in place without starting the engine (for example, several months), especially if there is old (dirty) oil in the crankcase.
How far can you drive if the oil lamp is on
Also, many motorists are interested in the question of how far can you drive when the oil light comes on? The answer to it depends on the reason for which such a situation was caused. From general considerations, we can say that when the lamp lights up, the first thing to do is check the oil level. And if it is below the minimum value, and there is nothing to add, then with a low level you can drive just a few kilometers with a minimum engine load (that is, with medium engine speeds and at low speed) to a place where you can add / change oil.
Additional diagnostics must also be performed there, since the activation of the lamp may indicate not only a low oil level, but also other reasons listed above. Do not operate the car with a low (below the minimum required value) oil level in the engine crankcase. This leads to its significant wear and the risk of complete failure of the power unit. Of course, this leads to significant costly repairs!
