Proper preparation of grapes for winter in the middle lane. Preparing grapes for winter - the basic rules of the gardener how to save the harvest! How to prepare a grape vine for wintering

Annual care of grapes in autumn involves a number of operations, reduced to pruning, thinning foliage and other activities that allow not only to properly form, but also to increase the yield of shrubs. Grapes - although a popular culture, it is rather capricious, and not every gardener is cultivating it even in the middle lane. Separately, it is worth noting the fact that grapes are cultivated well in Bashkiria, despite the fact that this is a region of risky farming. The main thing is the knowledge and understanding of what constitutes proper care for grapes.

Annual care of grapes in autumn involves a number of operations.

To achieve good yield results in a difficult climate, you need to try very hard. Not every gardener has the opportunity to experiment with varieties, and with the right approach, this is not necessary. It is worth noting that grapes in Bashkiria are characterized by large and fragrant clusters. First of all, you need to purchase a zoned seedling. In the case under consideration, it should be obtained for cultivation in the climatic zone of Bashkiria. Correct fit and care of the grapes increase the likelihood that the plant will take root.

To achieve good yield results in a difficult climate, you need to try very hard

There are many varieties offered, and Alexander is one of the most popular. The variety belongs to the early table, distinguishing feature which is resistant to frost. During the ripening period, the fruits acquire a dark pink hue and excellent aroma and taste. The average weight of a bunch is about 150 g. Several more zoned varieties are endowed with similar characteristics. Of these, Bashkir, Jubilee, Druzhba, May-3 should be singled out. If we consider such hybrid varieties as R-65 or R-81, then they have a bunch weight of about 500 g, and such indicators cannot but please gardeners who cultivate grapes in Bashkiria.

planting grapes

Before planting a seedling, an incision is made on it, checking for damage and viability. A healthy stalk has a greenish color, while the bark on the entire vine should not change in color. If you press on the kidney, then it will fall off, and when cut, the embryonic leaves should be visible. If the vine has a pale color and no moisture is observed in it, then such planting material is not suitable.

Under the future vineyard, you need to choose a sunny place where the shrub will be protected from the winds. On the site determine at what depth lie ground water. If the water is too close, it will negatively affect the growth and development of the plant. When it is planned to plant several bushes, planting should be carried out in one row from north to south, leaving 2 m gaps between plants, 1 m between rows.

Particular attention should be paid to the preparation of the landing pit. The hole is similar in diameter to the hole under fruit tree, and this factor is especially important in areas with poor soil. After preparing the pit, about 2-3 buckets of humus are poured to the bottom. If the soil is predominantly clay, then 2 buckets of crushed stone are poured into the bottom of the hole, which will be drainage and ensure soil breathability. A layer of wood ash 400 g and phosphate fertilizers 200 g are added as nutrients. After that, all components are well mixed with a shovel with the soil in the pit.

Proper watering

Grapes, in comparison with other horticultural crops, feel good during drought, which is explained by the characteristics of the root system, which has a large branching and excellent water conduction. It is important to remember that the shrub is responsive to watering. There are several ways to properly care for grapes, and attention should be paid to the time of year. In autumn, the soil is moistened through special channels, which are organized for drainage and covered with earth. With dry soil, cold air in winter penetrates to the roots more easily, exposing them to frostbite and subsequent death.

After watering, a sufficient amount of moisture will be concentrated in the soil for further development in subsequent periods. With abundant watering, the soil will get wet by 40 cm, after which the moisture will gradually sink lower, and in summer it will reach a depth of 1.5 m. In this case, even with severe drought, the shrub will receive water. Leaving in the spring implies the mandatory watering of the grapes if the winter was not very snowy. They perform an event until the moment the kidneys begin to awaken.

Under the future vineyard, you need to choose a sunny place where the shrub will be protected from the winds

If it is necessary to delay the development of the plant, for example, to protect against possible frosts, watering is done with cold water.

During the autumn planting, the grapes are watered directly into the pit, pouring 2 buckets of water. Having placed the seedling in the hole, sprinkle half with soil and again pour 2 buckets of water. To warm the soil in spring, you can use hot water, and after moistening, watered with warm water. In the first year of life, a bush of young grapes should form a good root system. First, the roots begin to grow near the planting pit, which indicates the need to irrigate the first year of growth into the canal, for the formation of which 30 cm recede from the plant, deepening 20 cm. The need for this watering is determined by examining the shrub and its leaves and is done with warm water. The following periods of growth and development are more favorable for irrigation. Happening:

• awakening of the kidneys;
• the end of flowering;
• development and ripening of berries.

Caring for grapes in the spring has some features. If the grapes are watered before flowering or during it, this will dramatically affect the loss of peduncles. Before harvesting, it is also not worth watering, as this will lead to incomplete ripening of the berries and their cracking.

Autumn grape care

In the autumn, grape care consists of activities such as fertilizing, pruning, watering, preventive procedures against diseases and pests, as well as protecting the shrub in the winter. When pruning, the goals are not only to rejuvenate the bush, but also to increase productivity. The berries ripen faster, which is associated with a greater intensity of sap flow in young shoots than in old ones. There are other positive aspects in pruning: frost resistance increases, preventive measures against diseases and pests are facilitated, while diseased and damaged shoots are removed.

Depending on the region, grape pruning in the first year may also be carried out in September. The procedure is started after the plant is ready for winter. Perform pruning a few weeks after the leaves fall. Previously, it is not worth doing it, because photosynthesis continues in the shoots, which can lead to a lack of nutrients for a successful wintering of the shrub and obtaining a future harvest.

Depending on the region, grape pruning in the first year may also be carried out in September

Caring for grapes in the fall, which are pruned for the winter with the first frosts, can damage young shoots. This is due to the fact that at sub-zero temperatures the vine becomes brittle and fragile. During pruning, it is necessary to remove damaged and diseased stems, which, after the event, are collected in one pile and burned, this rule will prevent the spread of infection in the vineyard.

Fertilizer and top dressing of grapes (video)

How to form grapes?

The formation of grapes in the first year consists of a series of successive steps. Extra shoots are removed on the shrub, while it is important not to overdo it: in addition to good shoots, they also leave branches that are spare. Along the row in which the grapes are planted, a trellis is organized, which is 2 rows of wire that serve as a fastener for the vine: the lower row is placed at a height of 30 cm from the ground, the upper one at 60 cm. When pruning, you must adhere to the following rules:

1. Since the formation has not yet been completed, the two lower buds on the vine do not need to be touched.
2. With the advent of September, on last year's vine, all young side branches that have grown to the top row of wire are removed.
3. The young vine that has reached the bottom wire is not removed, but only shortened by 1/4.
4. In October, a fruit link is formed, consisting of a replacement knot and a fruit branch.
5. All shoots that have reached a length of 20 cm are removed in mid-September, and branches over 30 cm are shortened by 10%.
6. In young shoots (first year), it is necessary to remove excess processes, leaving only those that are located at right angles. To get a powerful bush, there should be about 7 such sleeves.
7. Finally, the top is removed.

All places of cuts are treated with garden pitch, which will protect against the penetration of pathogens.

How to care for grapes in spring? The procedure during this period is similar to the autumn. After winter, bushes are opened, pruned and fed, which are standard steps that have a direct impact on crop yields. In order to increase the yield of shrubs, in the summer they perform a cut, which is the cutting of roots located close to the soil surface (20-25 cm). When caring for young grapes in the summer, one must not forget that the soil near the trunk is loosened several times during the growing season. Weeds are removed in a timely manner, irrigation is carried out several times a week.

Shelter of grapes for the winter

One of the most common materials for sheltering a vine for the winter is coniferous spruce branches, which is due to its low susceptibility to frost. However, not every gardener has a coniferous forest nearby, so you can use various covering materials to wrap the bushes or pin the vine to the ground. Such material can be agrofibre or film. It is worth considering that agrofibre in regions with prolonged frosts is not suitable as the main covering material. It is used only in combination with other materials.

There are varieties characterized by good winter hardiness, and therefore care for the vineyard in the autumn is not required. However, it is necessary to take into account the climatic features of the growing region. To increase winter hardiness, the plant is hardened during the dormant period. The initial stage lasts for 2 weeks at a temperature of +10 ... 0˚С. During this period, starch is broken down into sugars, which give the plant energy, which makes it easier to endure frost. The second stage of hardening also lasts for 2 weeks at a temperature of -1 ... -15˚С.

How to protect grapes from frost?

One of the most reliable ways to shelter a vineyard for the winter is to bury it in the ground and then cover it with a layer of soil and snow. The following rule should be followed: the soil is poured 35 cm high. If there are unripe shoots on the bushes, then shelter in this way will allow them to be preserved until spring. Additional measures include spraying the bush with slaked lime, after which the vine is dried and wrapped in covering material, which will protect it from decay. Then the shrub is bent to the ground, laid in a prepared trench, fixed and sprinkled with earth. To avoid flooding the trench, a layer of roofing material is laid on top.

Some experienced gardeners living in cold climates use the “dry” winter method of sheltering the vineyard. In this case, the vine is not buried, which prevents it from rotting, but it is still subjected to hardening. Fruit branches and sleeves are collected in a bundle, laid and fixed at the bottom of the trench, placing, for example, roofing material under the vine. As a shelter, wooden shields 30 mm thick are used, on top of which roofing material or polyethylene is laid, which will provide protection from melt water. Thus, the correct wintering of the grapes occurs.

Grapes are opened after winter, as stable warm weather is established. Young shoots are separated from each other and attached to the trellis. Grape care in early spring reduced to water-charging irrigation. After the procedures, all that remains is to wait for the buds to open, the development of a powerful shrub and large fragrant clusters.

Attention, only TODAY!

Grape - perennial, therefore, information on preparing grapes for winter will be useful to any summer resident. TO winter period gotta get ready for the fall. Grapes will survive the cold well if its vine is woody. To do this, you need to go through the process of hardening the plant. For hardening to be successful, it is necessary to water the grapes in time, provide the necessary access to light, remove excess shoots and harvest in a timely manner.

Usually, novice growers do a good job with watering and lighting, but they forget to thin out the grape bush. Therefore, if during the summer period you did not remove excess shoots, then thinning should be done in the fall. Also remember that the first light frosts are not afraid of grape bushes, so do not rush to cover them ahead of time - let the vine harden from frost.

Preparing the grapes for winter includes warming and sheltering the grapes. In this article, we will consider the option of preparing a small backyard vineyard for winter. For small home vineyards, air-dry shelter is used. Manufacturing looks like this:

• In autumn, in mid-October, after the first frosts, the vine is tied up and fastened to the ground along the ridge with wire hooks. Important point- wait for the first frost, the vine must be hardened.
• We make dry spruce branches from coniferous wood and lay it under the grapes.
• We pour a layer of spruce branches and dry leaves along the entire ridge.
• We cover it all with a yew shield.
• We cover the shield with a layer of polyethylene or roofing material.

You can make another grape shelter for the winter:

• We make a long wooden box from boards.
• We lay a vine on it.
• We fall asleep with dried fallen leaves and spruce branches.
• We cover the boxes with boards or slate.
• We cover the structure with roofing material or polyethylene.

A few tips for caring for such structures:

• Snow should tightly cover the fortified shaft. A five-centimeter layer of snow raises the soil temperature by 3-5 degrees, and a twenty-centimeter layer prevents the ground from freezing.
• Lapnik can be replaced (more on that below).
• Don't forget to set up mouse traps.

The problem of decay

In order for the wintering to be successful, you need to solve one more important issue viticulture - damping off. Incorrect shelter of grapes can lead to partial or complete death of the plant. Burnout may occur:

• Late autumn. Due to natural causes, the soil under the bushes can retain water for a very long time. If you close the plant for wintering during such a period, then the plant will definitely rot.
• In early spring. During the thaw, the soil is also saturated with moisture and can kill the grapes.

This problem must be dealt with. You can solve it by creating a ventilation system:

• Make small holes in the ends of the shelter.
• In autumn and spring they need to be kept open, and in winter - closed.
• It is desirable to close the hole with dried fallen leaves.

By now it should be clear to you why the preparation of grapes for winter must necessarily include the creation of ventilation.

What can replace spruce

In order to qualitatively cover the vineyard from frost, you need to buy spruce branches. It can be bought at any hardware store. However, if your vineyard is large in size, this can cost a pretty penny. In addition, environmentalists Lately fear for the disappearance of coniferous plants.
In order not to waste spruce branches, you can weave small slabs of plants, for example, from reeds. For this:

• We will weave ourselves or buy reed mats in the store. Size: length - 3 meters, width - 1 meter, thickness - more than 7 centimeters.
• We will tie two grape bushes and tilt them closer to the ground (there should be a gap of about 10-15 centimeters between the grapes and the ground).
• On the sides of the formed arcs we put boards.
• On top of the arcs we put our reed mats.
• We cover the resulting structure with roofing material or polyethylene to the ground.
• Do not forget to make ventilation (the recipe is described above).

In order for the preparation of grapes for winter to be as effective as possible, you need to know a few tricks. We list the main ones:

• Before sheltering the grapes for the winter, water the soil under the plant liberally. The plant will still need moisture in winter. About 10 buckets for 1 plant will be enough (do not forget about ventilation).
• Before covering the bushes, add some fertilizer to the ground. A good example of fertilizer would be a combination of 4-5 kilograms of humus, 50 grams of superphosphate and 1 gram of boric acid. If the soil under the plant is acidic, apply lime.
• Dig up the soil under the plant. Water will be better absorbed into the ground, and the soil will not freeze so much.
• Prevent the death of the eyes of the plant. Eyes may die in case of prolonged exposure to low temperatures. Temperature fluctuations also have a negative effect. How to be? The ground needs to be warmed up. To cover the grapes with natural insulation. To do this, pin the grapes, as described above (do not forget to leave an empty layer of 15-20 centimeters between the ground and the bush). Then we make an earth embankment of 10-15 centimeters. Then we cover the embankment with a small layer of peat, straw or manure. Now we are pouring the earth again. Do not forget that the grape vine should stick out of the insulated earth, and not be dug into it.
• There is no exact timeframe for closing a grape bush. This is usually done after the first frost. They usually come at the end of October and later.

Outcome

So that in winter the grapes do not die from frost, they must be covered immediately after the first frost. As a rule, for shelter, simple structures are made of wood and covered with a layer of polyethylene or roofing material. So that the plant does not rot, you need to make several small holes in the film, which, with relatively high temperatures you need to open, and at low - close. In order for the structure to be resistant to low temperatures, they need to be insulated with spruce branches or its natural analogues.

Everyone knows that grapes need to be properly prepared for the cold, but not everyone realizes that winter hardiness depends on the state of the bush. In this article: what factors affect freezing, how to increase winter hardiness and how to cover grapes so that they overwinter without damage.

In the previous article “Smart Vineyard: Basics of the Basics”, we talked about the fact that there are winter-hardy varieties, that is, those that do not even need to be covered for the winter, and those that do not tolerate frost and require reliable shelter. The eyes of winter-hardy grapes, on average, withstand temperatures of minus 12-15 degrees for a long time, and 20 degrees of frost for one to two weeks. Perennial wood of such varieties is able to withstand a decrease to minus 27 degrees. It should be noted that these indicators are typical for bushes in good condition, that is, with powerful roots and well-developed mature vines.

Practice shows that no matter what the winter hardiness of the variety is, if the grape bush is overloaded, sick or suffers from a lack of moisture, sunlight and heat, then even well-covered, it will freeze and lose young vines, and hence the harvest of next year . In this case, the main rule should be understood - the winter hardiness of grapes is always determined by the state of the bush. Let's see what needs to be done to increase the resistance of grape bushes to frost.

Why does the bush freeze

Almost the entire actively growing part of the root system (thin roots and root hairs) dies off in winter and gives up its substances to thicker roots. Only the part that has managed to stiffen remains alive, that is, the roots are not thinner than 1-1.5 mm. In the spring, they will sprout again with thin layering, and the development of the root system will continue.

For the normal development of the roots, it is extremely necessary to have a sufficient amount of nutrients that are given to the aerial parts of the grapes during the deterioration of conditions to overcome stressful situations (dry wind, sudden changes in temperature, hard frost). If the bush was overloaded, sick or lacked warmth in summer, the roots will not receive nutrients, which means that in winter they will not be able to help the grapes survive the frost. Experienced growers believe that to protect the roots it is necessary to mulch the soil in the vineyard. Organic mulch will be useful for all varieties, as it can protect the earth from rapid freezing.

The most lively and tender parts of the bush are the eyes, they live, breathe and evaporate moisture constantly, except for the time of freezing. Three factors can threaten grape eyes. Firstly, these are sharp jumps in temperature from warm to frost, which usually occurs on clear nights and is accompanied by the appearance of frost. Practice shows that in this case, the endurance of the kidneys is significantly reduced. Secondly, frosty temperatures, accompanied by a dry wind, can greatly harm the eyes. Under such conditions, the vines are very dry, and freezing of the eyes is accelerated. The third dangerous factor for the kidneys is long-term icing of the vines. The eyes can withstand a day under a layer of ice without problems, but then there is a danger that they can suffocate.

Bushes of resistant varieties with mature wood and a developed root system will survive the winter without problems. However, it is not always possible to plant such a variety, and the fruits of such grapes are much inferior in taste. Therefore, experienced specialists have developed a number of rules to make the bushes already available in the vineyard as winter-hardy as possible.

How to increase winter hardiness

As we have already found out, healthy, well-developed grapes with strong roots survive the cold best. In order for the bush to develop well, it is necessary to observe during the season certain rules for care, which will increase the resistance of the vine to cold:

1. First of all, you need to pay special attention to that moment in order to provide the grapes with an optimal load. How to do it right, we told in the article "Smart vineyard: shaping on a trellis or gazebo". An overloaded bush does not develop well, since all the forces are spent on the ripening of the clusters. Such grapes do not allow the roots to stock up on the necessary amount of nutrients for wintering. An underloaded bush throws out powerful fat vines, but they will not be distinguished by good frost resistance, as practice shows that vines of medium strength are most resistant to cold, which received maximum sunlight during the summer. Therefore, it is necessary to load the bush so that there are as many of them as possible.
2. There is no doubt that grapes can ripen in the best way only in the sun, even with the slightest shading, the vine does not develop normally - the wood of such a bush will be watery and loose and will not be able to accumulate the necessary nutrients.
3. To increase winter hardiness, it is recommended to ensure that the grapes do not get sick throughout the season. The most dangerous disease in this sense is mildew, which causes the death of leaves. And if the leaf dies, it provokes the growth of stepchildren from sleeping eyes. Such shoots, as a rule, do not ripen until autumn, and the vine may die already from the first frosts in November.
4. Helps increase resistance to cold proper nutrition. As you know, potassium is the main anti-stress substance for grapes. Therefore, experts recommend adding wood ash under each bush during the season (on average, a bucket per season). But grapes overfed with nitrogen will be very pampered and will give fat and lop-sided shoots that are unlikely to resist severe frosts.
5. Properly moistened soil under it will help improve the frost resistance of the bush. Dry earth cools and freezes very quickly, while wet earth has a high heat capacity and smooths out the negative effects of low temperatures for a long time. In addition, the eyes need moisture for normal breathing and development. However, it should be noted that it is necessary to start moistening the soil under the bushes in October-November, and in no case should grapes be poured in the middle of summer, as frequent watering at this time can provoke the growth of young shoots that do not have time to ripen before winter. Well, what is fraught with, we have already discussed.

So, from the foregoing, it is clear that in order for vine bushes to be able to better withstand frost, it is necessary to give them an optimal load, provide maximum sunlight, protect against diseases, and also properly feed and water.

How to cover grapes for the winter

growing on most household plots grapes are either not covered at all, or carefully dug into the ground. There are simpler, but no less effective ways. Let's look at some of them.

For example, you can simply pull a bush off the gazebo, cut it off, pile it up and lightly throw it with earth. Various home-made hooks made of rebar or thick wire will help to press the grapes well to the ground. Experts believe that it is enough to cover a bush pressed in this way with a layer of earth of 3-5 cm. The main danger for grapes in winter is strong dry winds at low air temperatures, and if your bushes grow in a calm place, then you can not sprinkle them for the winter - just press it to the ground. Also, instead of the earth, in this case, you can use various improvised materials - corn stalks, straw, weeds. It should be noted that the wetter the soil to which the grapes are pressed, the less the risk of freezing.

Many believe that it is impossible to cover the grapes with a film - it will get worn out. It's a delusion. You just need to wrap it up not tight so that the air circulates freely. The film can cover both trellis bushes and bushes on the gazebo.

Grapes growing on trellises should be cut off, put on the ground, covered with a film on top, which should be pressed down with pieces of earth along the edges. Arbor bushes that need to be covered must be collected in a bundle and freely wrapped with pieces of polyethylene - left in this form right on the arbor.

Well-developed and mature high-stem bushes on trellises can not be lowered to the ground, but wrapped with a film right on the spot. The basic rule in this case is that the winding should not be tight and tight, so that on sunny winter days the grapes do not overheat and suffocate. Wrap with polyethylene freely, leaving small gaps for ventilation. Some experts use roofing material, tarpaulin, rubber, as well as specially made boxes from boards to shelter grapes.

When preparing grapes for winter, the question may arise: when should the bushes be cut? Experts recommend that those bushes that require shelter be cut in the fall, since it is quite difficult to work with uncircumcised ones. But those that you do not plan to wrap, it is better to prune in early spring before the start of sap flow, as practice shows that uncircumcised, uncovered grapes better withstand low temperatures.

When preparing grape bushes for winter, you need to understand the main thing - well-ripened healthy grapes will endure adverse winter conditions much easier. Therefore, the main task in this case is to create optimal conditions for the growth and development of the bush throughout the season. The right load, maximum heat and sun, protection from diseases, as well as optimal watering and nutrition will allow the grapes to retain more vitality and survive the winter more easily.

Related videos

Proper preparation of grapes for winter will protect them from the cold and pests. Despite the fact that most of the varieties are obtained as a result of selection, you should not rely 100% on the ability of sweet berries to resist the effects of external negative factors. Proper preparation of grapes for wintering includes several stages. The first one starts in the fall. The specific period is determined by the gardener, taking into account the climatic zone and the characteristics of the variety. Optimal time- mid-September - early November. In the middle lane, training begins in October.

The first step is to carefully bend the vine to the ground before the onset of cold weather. The next step is to add nutrients. The gardener must remember the need for top dressing after fruiting is completed. It is not worth saving, otherwise there will be no active vegetation in the spring. Phosphorus and potassium are often used. When used in the garden mineral fertilizers, then superphosphate is added to the soil in a volume of up to 30 g for every 1 m2. If the emphasis is on potash fertilizers, then potassium sulfate is added to the soil in the amount of up to 20 g per 1 m2.

Regardless of the type of fertilizer, they rely on wet. With its help, nutrients will reach the goal faster. For each plant, 10 liters of water are spent, in which fertilizers are dissolved. On the summer cottages, whose owners prefer organic fertilizers, use wood ash as a top dressing. Up to 200 g is spent on each plant. It is applied dry during digging or in dissolved form. In regions with a harsh climate, slightly rotted humus or compost is additionally used. Each plant needs to be treated with 15 kg of substances.

Mandatory application of fungicides

Among the tips on how to prepare grape bushes for winter in the middle lane, not the last place is the recommendation to use one of the fungicides. The first place among the popular substances is occupied by iron sulphate. It contains substances that prevent the development of bacterial flora. Even with temperature fluctuations, nothing threatens the berries. When processing seedlings, the following recommendations are followed:

• spraying can be carried out before pruning, but for such a procedure you will need 50% more solution;
• processing is carried out with a 3% solution (if the berries were not sick) and a 5% solution if the grapes were ill;
• for every 10 liters of water take 500 g of the substance;
• young plantings are allowed to be treated with a 1% solution of ferrous sulfate - for every 10 liters of water, 100 g of the substance is taken;
• after processing, the vine will darken a little and this is not scary;
• urea (100 g for every 5 l) added to the solution will help improve the quality of spraying.

Despite the fact that urea contains nitrogen, in small quantities it destroys pest larvae. Spraying is carried out only after all the leaves have fallen. The second condition is that all the buds have closed on the bush.

Pruning bushes

Proper preparation for winter begins with removal individual elements. Each action must be verified, so do not rush. Its immediate and subsequent pruning for the winter includes the preparation of cuttings. They will be used to propagate berries. You can start working immediately after all the leaves have fallen. It doesn’t matter if the bushes grow only the first year or several years, the recommended course of action is as follows:

• the first pruning is carried out in mid-September;
• the second pruning is carried out 3 weeks after harvesting in October;
• during I pruning, diseased and dry bushes are removed (no more than 15% of the total number of bushes);
• it is allowed to cut only those shoots that are localized on the main trunk 60 cm above the top wire.

Gardeners who want to know how should always keep in mind the variety of berries and the climatic features of the region. Both factors shift the trimming time up or down. In order for the grapes to feel good in winter, the summer resident pays more attention to II pruning in October:

• pruning is subject to escape from outer side sleeves;
• up to 3 kidneys are left on it;
• up to 2 shoots are left with inside for the formation of a fruit arrow;
• you need to leave a number of eyes that matches the diameter of the vine + about 2 buds.

In low-fruiting grape varieties, an additional 3 buds should be left.

Compliance with watering rules

As soon as pruning is completed, the plants need to be watered. The first rule is that watering is carried out before the soil freezes, otherwise it does not make sense. The optimal time is the end of autumn. The more moisture is added, the less likely it is to get a small crop. Reviews from gardeners suggest that a water-soaked vine enters the growing season faster in spring. Late fall preparation includes the following recommendations:

• recommended for sandy soil - 60 liters for each bush;
• for loams, the indicator is 30 liters for each bush;
• before watering, a small depression is made around the main trunk - up to 10 cm.

It is necessary to water so that the water gets into the groove. In this way, you can save moisture and be sure that each bush has received enough of it.

The benefits of cataract

Before winters, you need to remove small roots, which are located at a depth of up to 25 cm. You should not ignore the recommendation. Such roots are located too close to the surface. During winter standing, when watering and top dressing are rare, they will die off, drawing strength from the grapes. The scheme for removing surface roots looks like this:

• gently dig the soil around the trunk to a depth of 25 cm;
• remove the roots with secateurs;
• sections are treated with a solution (3%) of copper sulphate;
• wrap the place of the cut with a film in 3 layers and tie it with twine;
• the hole is covered with earth.

Cataring is necessary for those who grow grapes on a farm or in industrial quantities.

Shelter of grapes for the winter

Phased autumn processing of grapes implies a preliminary assessment of the condition of the vine. If winter is already on the threshold, and the vine is not ripe, then it is worth temporarily stopping watering and top dressing. These procedures will be quite enough to accelerate maturation. Next stage - . It all depends on the amount of snow that falls in the region. The smaller it is, the denser the fabric should be. Work begins with the careful removal of the manhole from the supports and tying the branches. Then they are carefully laid on the ground.

In the middle lane, the vineyard is covered with spruce branches. We are talking about spruce or pine branches. Under such a blanket, a microclimate is formed that will not allow the grapes to suffer. good advice How to care for grapes in the fall and prepare them for winter will be a recommendation to cover the plantings with another film. Only need to leave small gaps for air circulation.

The annual preparation of grapes for winter includes several procedures - providing conditions for the full maturation of the vine, pruning, top dressing, watering, protection from diseases and pests. The further health and immunity of the vineyard will depend on how correctly and on time such care is provided.

Conditions for a successful winter

In winter, the grape bush should go with a well-ripened vine, otherwise there is a high risk of freezing of the aerial part. You can determine the maturity of the vine by the characteristic straw color, hardness, cod when bending, but not broken. Even during the period of frost, the ripened vine remains warm, unlike the unripened one.

Before covering the vineyard, it is necessary to carry out several activities that will contribute to the high-quality ripening of the shoots:

• normalization of the load of bushes, shoots, as well as thinning during the growing season;
• pasynkovanie and pruning unnecessary leaves;
• root and foliar top dressing;
• treatments for diseases and pests;
• compliance with irrigation schemes and norms.

Watering

Before sheltering the grapes for the winter, water-charging irrigation should be carried out, which will provide the bushes with good winter hardiness and protection from freezing. On dry soil, frosts quickly penetrate deep and contribute to injury to the root system.

It is watered into specially prepared holes - 2-3 holes are dug to a depth of up to 25 cm. Consumption per adult bush is 5-6 buckets, a seedling is 4 buckets. The second option is moistening along trenches that are dug out to lay each vine for the winter.

If the autumn turned out to be rainy, and the vineyard grows on loose soil, there is no need for pre-winter watering.

Moisture-charging irrigation will provide bushes with protection from freezing

top dressing

At the end of the growing season, after harvesting, it is fed. A balanced diet helps restore plant strength and prepare for the next fruiting season.

Nutrition in the fall is carried out in two stages.

1. The first fertilizer is applied in early September to speed up the ripening process of the vine and prepare the bushes for wintering. For 1 sq. m. vineyard use 1 tsp. potassium salt and 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate. Nutrient components can be a good addition to the first top dressing: boric acid, manganese sulfate and zinc sulfate - 2 g each. If the soil is sandy, then potassium iodine is added to the general composition - 1 g.
2. In late autumn, a second feeding is carried out, which increases the immunity of plants from various diseases, pests and winter cold. For 1 sq. m contribute 25 g of phosphorus and potassium. Additionally, the near-stem zone is shed with a solution of wood ash - 300 g of the substance is dissolved in a bucket of water. Under each plant pour 10 liters of nutrient solution.

Top dressing is combined with watering to improve the absorption of nutrients by the roots in winter. After each top dressing, the soil in the near-trunk zone is mulched with compost, last year's manure, peat or garden soil.

Subtleties of pre-winter pruning

Before sheltering the grapes for the winter, winter pruning is carried out. But not everywhere - mainly in the regions of sheltered viticulture. Properly pruned bushes are easier to cover and provide good protection from the winter cold.

General rules

During pruning, several important rules should be observed:

• all cuts should face the inside of the plant;
• young non-fruiting growth is removed on the ring;
• replacement knots are left on the bush, close to the trunk;
• after cutting, all shoots are removed from the site and burned to prevent the appearance of infections and pests;
• before covering the grapes in winter, they additionally remove all disease-damaged and too old branches.

In the process of pruning the shoots, small stumps are left - from 1 to 1.5 cm in length for better and faster healing of wounds. The timing of pruning in each region is different and depends on climatic and weather conditions.

Scheme

So that the bush bears fruit abundantly and annually, during autumn pruning it is important to determine the number of sleeves - leave the strongest and thickest. Make sure that the load on the bush is even on both sides of the trellis. Usually, the replacement of fruiting sleeves is carried out no more than once every eight years. As a substitute material, young shoots are used, as well as shoots formed in the trunk area.

Depending on the variety, the laying of fruitful buds is different - in some plants they form from 3-4 buds, in others - from 7-8, and in others - from 12-15. Therefore, short pruning is carried out on 2-4 buds, medium - on 5-8, long - on 12-16 buds.

Based on this, the average number of eyes per bush is determined:

• for the young - 10-20;
• medium - 20-40;
• adult fruiting bush - 40-60.

Pruning seedlings

Pruning of grown bushes (3-4 years old) is carried out taking into account the necessary formation of the bush. The above scheme is applied for adult fruit-bearing plants.

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The first stepping procedure is carried out in the spring about a month after the start of the growing season, when 3-4 pairs of young leaves appear on the side branches.

Young shoots are pinched, leaving the lower part with 2-3 leaves.

In summer, stepchildren of the second order can form on the side lashes, they need to be completely plucked off, because. they will not become full-fledged fruitful vines and will inhibit the growth and development of the main side shoots.

Also, young growth, which is formed in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bvine brushes, is subject to removal. The plant will get more access to light and air. This procedure simplifies the access of insects to the inflorescences, which improves the quality of pollination of the bushes.

A month before harvest, some growers pinch off the leaves around each bunch, as well as at the bottom of the bush, which speeds up the process of pouring and ripening berries.

On bushes that regularly stepchild, fruitful vines ripen better, because they receive the maximum amount of nutrients.

Protection against diseases and pests

After graduation preparatory work bushes can be closed. Growers use several ways to shelter grapes for the winter.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.

1. Hilling. This method of warming is suitable for young plants - 1-2 years old. An earthen mound 15-20 cm high is made above the seedling.
2. Half cover. It is used to protect the near-stem zone of adult plants. The bases of the shoots, sleeves and the central part of the grapes are covered with straw or agrofibre.
3. Full cover of grapes. Such insulation is carried out as follows: first, the vine is cut, tilted to the ground, then covered with film material or agrofiber. Sprinkle soil on top. So that the shoots do not rot and become moldy, several holes are made in the fabric for oxygen to enter.

Grapes should be closed before the first frost in the fall.