Do-it-yourself workbench from bars. Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands

Each home master knows that a well-equipped workshop with a stable and reliable carpenter's workbench, equipped with all kinds of tools for working parts, is half the success in the manufacture of wood products. Of course, the desktop can be bought in the distribution network. However, we recommend making it yourself. First, it will allow you to get the product right size and functionality. Secondly, when building a workbench, additional equipment can be placed in the most rational way. Thirdly, the cost of the machine will be much lower than the factory version, which will allow you to buy a quality tool with the money saved. If these arguments gave you a reason to think about making a desktop with your own hands, then our drawings, instructions and recommendations will help you build a solid, reliable and functional carpentry workbench.

Purpose and design of a typical carpentry workbench

Sturdy and reliable carpentry workbench will provide convenience and comfort during long work with wooden parts

The carpenter's workbench, in fact, is a massive, reliable table for processing wooden products of any size. The main requirements for this type of equipment are strength and stability. In addition, the machine must be equipped with at least a minimum set of fixtures for securing and holding workpieces. The dimensions of the working table are selected depending on the size and weight of the parts to be processed, as well as free space in the workshop or garage. By the way, there are designs of compact workbenches that can be placed even on the balcony.

The design of a carpentry workbench with a type-setting worktop. In the figure: 1 - base or bench; 2 - workbench; 3 - miter box; 4 - coupler; 5 - vice; 6 - support beam

Since the work that is carried out on the carpentry machine is carried out with the help of manual and electric tools, the workbench is made of massive timber and thick boards. By the way, the work surface, or in another way the workbench, is assembled only from hardwood. In the manufacture of countertops, dry oak, beech or hornbeam boards with a thickness of at least 60 mm are used. If the countertop is made of pine, alder or linden, then its surface will wear out quickly and will require periodic updating. Often, a bench cover is assembled from several narrow and thick boards, placing them on edge.

A number of holes made on the working surface of the table allows you to install stop elements for the convenience of processing long wooden workpieces.

In order to facilitate the construction, the supporting legs of the desktop, on the contrary, are made of soft wood. Between themselves, the vertical supports are connected by a longitudinally installed beam to increase the stability of the product.

Typical scheme of a carpentry workbench

A specially designed vise is hung on the front and side of the workbench for fixing workpieces. In addition, on overall machines, separate clamping devices for large and small parts are mounted. The optimal location for the carpentry vice is the left side of the front apron and the near part of the right sidewall.

In the underlayment - the space between the supports, under the tabletop, they often equip convenient shelves and drawers for storing tools and accessories.

For convenience, a recess is made in the back of the countertop for fittings and small parts. Often, a recess that is difficult to manufacture is replaced with a frame knocked down from wooden slats.

Types and design

All home-made desktops for carpentry can be divided into three types:

1. Mobile workbenches have a weight of up to 30 kg, dimensions of less than 1 m in length and up to 70 cm in width, are equipped with one vice and are made partly from metal elements. Such machines are designed to work with small, light workpieces or minor repairs of wooden products. Mobile desktop is great option with a lack of space and can be installed in any room in the country or on the balcony. Often, mobile workbenches have a folding design.

   Homemade carpentry workbench mobile design

   
   

   If there is no need for a stationary, professional workbench, then for small repair work or making small parts you can refurbish an old desk.

2. A stationary carpentry workbench is made with reference to a specific place and is not intended to be moved during operation. Equipment of this type allows you to process parts of any size and weight.

   The stationary carpenter's workbench is a reliable, stable structure, equipped in accordance with the preferences of the owner and the features of the room.

3. Composite type machine - the most difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, this design, due to its variability, is the most practical and functional structure. If necessary, individual parts of the workbench can be easily replaced, since the elements of the desktop are bolted together.

   The composite workbench is a structure that can be adjusted to any requirement.

Project and drawings

When designing a carpentry workbench, the most important criteria are height, configuration and equipment. In addition, it is necessary to take into account who will operate the desktop - left-handed or right-handed.

Considering that it will take a long time to work at a carpentry workbench, the closest attention should be paid to the height of the future structure. For people of average height, experts recommend making a table no higher than 90 cm.

Drawing of a carpentry workbench

When determining the distance from the floor to the countertop, it is best to focus not on the average parameters, but on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is on the same level with the hands. If you calculate this parameter taking into account the thickness of the countertop, then you can work at such a workbench tirelessly for several hours.

The cover of the machine can be made of boards, solid wood or plywood and is a type-setting structure. It is not recommended to use chipboard or OSB for these purposes. Professional carpenters have long determined the optimal size of the countertop - a maximum of 2 m in length and 0.7 m in width. On such a workbench, with the same convenience, you can make a team wooden door, and a small window.

When designing a structure, do not forget about the strength of the supporting frame. For supporting structural elements, a bar with a section of at least 100x100 mm is used. As longitudinal and transverse reinforcing elements, it is allowed to use rails and beams with a smaller section - from 50 - 60 mm or more. The joints of the parts are mounted on spikes or dowels, furniture corners and other fittings are used for strength, and all connections are made using bolts and self-tapping screws. Nails will not be able to provide the required stability and fundamental nature of the structure.

Joiner's workbench. View from above

Often the frame, or otherwise the frame of the workbench, is made of metal. Despite the fact that this material makes it possible to make a height-adjustable structure with less labor, professional carpenters prefer all-wood structures.

Next, consider the project of a carpentry table¸ made of plywood, or rather, from two plywood sheets 1.8 mm thick glued together. The dimensions of the lid are 150x60 cm. The edges of the tabletop are reinforced with plywood strips, which increases its thickness to 72 mm. By the way, the presented dimensions are not a dogma and can be adjusted, if necessary, in accordance with the needs and characteristics of a particular room used as a workshop.

Necessary tools and materials

Plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is a rather expensive material (the price of one sheet measuring 1.5x1.5 m is more than 700 rubles, excluding shipping costs). Our project will require at least two sheets of this material. You can save a little if you buy one, larger sheet with dimensions of 2500x1250 mm. Additionally, if possible, try to purchase scraps of plywood with a width of at least 300 mm, which will be used to reinforce the workbench cover around the perimeter.

Additionally, for the construction of a carpentry machine, you will need:

• wooden beam with a section of at least 100x100 mm - for supports;
• timber or slats with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm - for frame reinforcement elements;
  When choosing lumber for a carpentry workbench, carefully inspect the workpieces for knots and cracks. Remember that these parts will work under continuous load;
• electric drill with a set of conventional and feather drills;
• pieces of boards with a length of at least 1.5 m for laying under the clamps;
• wood glue. A good result can be obtained by using the domestic adhesive "Moment Joiner";
• furniture bolts with nuts and self-tapping screws;
• Circular Saw;
• joiner's square;
• long rule (at least 2 m);
• construction level;
• a notched trowel with a size of cut sectors of at least 3 mm;
• carpentry clamps.

Clamps required for compressing plywood sheets during gluing must be strong and reliable. If you are a non-professional carpenter and do not have a quality tool, then you can get by with inexpensive Chinese-made jigs. Of course, the number of such devices should be doubled.

Manufacturing instructions

1. To make a countertop, cut two blanks with a circular saw. If you managed to purchase a plywood sheet of maximum length, then you need to saw off one blank 1520 mm long from it. By cutting it in half, you will get two parts 1520x610 mm. After that, as a rule, check the concave and convex sides of each sheet. This will make it possible to correctly orient the sheets when gluing.

   High-quality gluing provides clamping of tabletop parts with clamps

   
   

   To properly glue the plywood sheets, they are folded, turning the convex sides to each other.

2. After laying one blank on three parallel-laid boards, apply wood glue to its surface. To do this, use straight and notched trowels. Remember that the work must be carried out very quickly, otherwise the composition will begin to set prematurely. The glue manufacturer Moment Stolyar recommends joining the parts no later than two minutes after the start of applying the composition. Therefore, if you are not sure about the speed of your work, use wood glue, which has no time limits. Of course, the strength of the connection will be slightly reduced, however, even the PVA furniture mix good quality provide an acceptable degree of bonding.

   To prevent damage to the workpiece, support boards are placed under the clamps.

3. Having laid the second workpiece on top of the first, place support boards around the perimeter of the future table cover and begin to tighten the tabletop with clamps. At the same time, do not forget to control the flatness of the part using the rule. It will not work to tighten the center of the workpiece with clamps, so in this part you can install a load weighing at least 15 - 20 kg.
   

   It is possible to glue plywood sheets into a shield without clamps, if you can find a perfectly flat surface for laying them, as well as a load of sufficient mass.

4. After the glue dries, the clamps are removed and proceed to reinforce the side surfaces of the countertop. To do this, strips of plywood 15 cm wide are glued around the entire perimeter of the cover in two layers. When doing this work, be sure to make sure that the top layer completely covers the joints.

   Reinforcement of the side parts of the bench table with additional plywood strips

5. For trimming the side surfaces of the table, use circular saw. The parquet is carried out smoothly, slowly. It is convenient to use the same rule as a guide. The tabletop is given a size of 1500x600 mm in compliance with right angles, for which they use a joiner's square or a factory corner of a plywood sheet.
6. Workbench supports are made of timber with a section of 100x100 mm, connecting them with prolegs and drawers, for which lumber with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm is used. In our case, the height of the machine is 900 mm, however, you can adjust this size to suit your height.

   Making a carpentry workbench frame

7. The legs are assembled “in a spike” or using dowels, be sure to apply carpentry glue to the parts to be joined.
8. When assembling the upper and lower frame of the underlay, scrupulously maintain 90-degree angles between the parts. It will be easier to fulfill this requirement if, at the stage of preparing the parts, their edges are correctly trimmed. The width of the frame of our structure is 900 mm, and the height of the frame is 830 mm, taking into account the distance from the floor to the lower prong of 150 mm.

   Holes made in the parts with a pen drill will help to hide the bolt heads and washers.

If desired, a shelf can be built in the underlay. To do this, a plywood panel is cut out to the size of the lower space, in the corners of which rectangular cutouts are made for the legs of the machine.

Installation of additional equipment

A real carpentry workbench cannot be imagined without fixtures designed to fasten workpieces. For this purpose, a vise is attached to the finished tabletop in such a way that their jaws are flush with the surface of the lid. To properly install the fixture on the workbench, a vice is applied to the machine and the attachment points are marked. After that, holes with a diameter of 12 mm are drilled and the tool is installed on the machine using a bolted connection with an M12 thread. When performing this operation, be sure to mill the holes for the washers and bolt heads.

View finished product with fixed vise

If it is not possible to install a stationary vice, you can do without them by using bench clamps or clamps.

In addition to the vise, stops are provided on the desktop. To do this, a series of holes are drilled in the countertop. Parts made of wood are considered the best stops, since metal fixtures can damage the workpiece. Nests for supporting elements are located at a distance equal to half the stroke of the vise. This will allow you to securely fix the workpiece of any size.

Video: DIY carpentry workbench

Building a carpentry workbench is a rather difficult task. However, personally assembled machine will allow you to work in a convenient, comfortable environment. This requires not only to think over the ergonomics of the workspace and properly prepare the construction project, but also to perform the work in full accordance with the recommendations of professional carpenters. Only then the resulting product will be durable and stable, delighting its owner for many years of service.

The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make details on inaccurate equipment for more accuracy. And it all started with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, and a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate work and improve its result.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make workbenches for themselves, on which, figuratively speaking, a tank can be smashed with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years or more, is one of the typical mistakes in the development of workbenches of our own design.

The second is the neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “play” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal bed.

Third - repeat carpentry or locksmith workbenches; perhaps with some tweaks to your liking. Meanwhile, there are many designs of workbenches for home / amateur work of a different nature. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, on the contrary, universal, temporary from improvised materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper according to the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a general-purpose workbench or a universal workbench for special conditions of use - in a cramped garage, under carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for fine precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vise on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for installing them, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” prefabricated workbench

This is the wrong decision, not only because the wooden countertop deteriorates from carpentry. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more combustible. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oiled rags in production. The approach to designing the countertop (board, cover) of a universal workbench needs a different one based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - thin or rough, see below.

work bench

In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting worktop framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a "working bench" are given in fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.

The workbench dampens vibrations well; You can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, it is inconvenient to work with lengthy materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then garage and metalwork. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

The composition of the workbench

The workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin exactly) consists of:

• Underwork (in carpentry workbenches), or bed (in metalwork), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
• Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
• Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
• The apron on which the tool is hung. The apron is not a mandatory accessory of the workbench, it can hang on the wall or be replaced by a pedestal, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

A lid with a shelf is most often made at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, benchtop or table top. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In a locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, strands, and other defects) solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves at the same time as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.

The traditional construction of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joiner's shelf. This comes from the master covens of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / underbench that you should start developing your workbench no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

Stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel frame not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never sag. Secondly, the tree perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops at a factory, are they? And the overall strength and stability of the bed of a home workbench will be fully provided by coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality.

The design of the wooden frame of the workbench made of boards 120x40 is shown on the left in fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertically down for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are mirrored. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the spikes of the racks and, outside, with corners.

If a beam of 150x50 or (180…200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. The bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a frame that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and locksmith workbenches. A box-shaped cover is placed on it under the carpentry (see below), and under the locksmith a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4 mm strips above the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

An all-wood workbench, without the need for welding to manufacture it, can be made according to the scheme on the trail. rice. The “chip” here is in the tabletop, glued from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then the permissible load is 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Drawers are galvanized. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.

Under a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench is suitable according to the scheme at the top right of a professional pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120 ... 150) x40.

Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x (30 ... 35) self-tapping screws, a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this design, the workbench will show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: under the carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adapted, as described below. The locksmith's vise is mounted on a wooden cushion, but is not fastened with a clamp. A collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice cushion from below, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vise.

For carpentry

The lid of the carpentry workbench, in contrast to the metalwork, is tightly attached to the workbench and is box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best option fastenings for a non-separable workbench - steel corners and self-tapping screws. Podverstache can also be a steel bed from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench is arranged is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it in pos. B. The workbench (in this case, this is a separate device) is used to work with a long length. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trimming of the board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fasten it into the sockets with sunken cone-head bolts. The traditional construction of a carpentry underbench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

The cover of the carpentry workbench can be made cheaper by making a 2-layer, pos. B. Then quality boards solid wood will only be needed for a shelf. They lay it down, laying the boards with “peas” of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, tightly squeezing with a clamp or wrapping it with a cord; put on a pillow on the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through spikes (insert at pos. B) and is attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Vice for carpentry

All-wood carpentry vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some remarks are needed here.

First, you need to put 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). The second - if the nut is not custom-made and not purchased shaped, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use too thick a screw for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.

The nut of a home-made clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or more, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamp pad, so it is less likely that the nut will be torn off when clamping. But the thread will ugly lead away from welding, you can’t drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be tapped along complete scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).

Note: the nut welded on the base must be allowed to rest for at least 2 hours before the thread passes, so that the residual deformations “subside”.

Vice and carpentry for a locksmith

The vise on the locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see sidebar in the figure), so that as much as possible of the dynamic loads during metal processing falls vertically on corner post. The location of the cross beams and intermediate vertical racks of a workbench with a stationary vice is desirable to be made a little asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with a vice. The installation of the vice is also carried out starting from the corner:

• A collet anchor is driven into the wooden corner post under the mounting bolt, and a high nut or threaded sleeve is welded into the metal post (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
• If the fastener is welded, thread with taps, as in a homemade carpenter's vice nut, see above;
• Put a vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark holes for fixing points 2, 3 and 4 in place;
• The vise is removed and drilled through holes 2, 3 and 4;
• Put a vise on the bolts 1, 2 and 3;
• For fastening to bolt 4, a jib U is placed under the cover (tabletop) from a wooden beam from 60x60 or a professional pipe from 40x40. It is not necessary to fix the jib, but it should rest from under the bottom against the upper frame (strap) of the bed, but not against the table top!
• Attach the vise finally to the bolt 4.

Note: stationary power tools are also fixed in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

The locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the table top for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the bottom surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; plugs fit well plastic bottles, they withstand tight landings many times.

Garage workbench

It is impossible to make a workbench in the garage optimal in terms of ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and you can more or less work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) is unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench "responds" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

The scheme of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: cells of the frames of the cover and the lower shelf of the edge farthest from the corner different sizes. The accuracy of the installation of the crossbars is +/- 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the lower shelf are made of chipboard 32 mm thick and lined with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; replaced without difficulty.

Fastening to the walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Deepening into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and on the wall, on the left in fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood 10-12mm. Opening under the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling cutter” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the chips fall immediately onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench with a lifting tabletop in it, on the right in the figure; he will fit in the house for fine workmanship(electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on card hinges. For folding, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench-box may be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home, they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, artistic sawing out of plywood, etc. For fine fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and its accessories are given in fig. The resistance of the work surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small, with screw clamping.

More about plywood

In fact, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because. she calls back well. If the pillow board locksmith workbench is still made of plywood, then to its bottom you need to glue a frame (frame) on the PVA, also made of plywood, see fig. Then it is desirable to cover the upper (working side) first with unlined linoleum, and then lay steel on it.

To the rising shift

Another case where making a workbench out of plywood is justified is a student's workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not to beat for nothing, but to work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave students a bad instrument.

Workbenches in the country

When country house or others. light wooden the structure is still being built, there is no time for bench wisdom, at least something is needed on which simple carpentry work can be done. For such a case, hastily you can put together a carpentry workbench for giving from improvised materials, on the left in fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on the arrangement of the dacha, a mini-workbench is useful, on the right in fig. At minimum flow material and extremely simple design, it is stable enough for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, tk. the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will turn out to be collapsible and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a dacha, inhabited permanently or all summer, with a master owner, by the way, you will have a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

A home master who prefers to do all the housework on his own needs a convenient and safe workplace. The best option will become a workbench. Thanks to this simple design, the work will be significantly accelerated, since the master will work in comfortable conditions and all the necessary tools and fixtures will be at hand.

Figure 1. The carpentry workbench is a reliable comfortable table needed to process parts.

Design features

A carpenter's workbench is a durable, comfortable table designed for processing various parts (Fig. 1). Its tabletop must be strong and large enough to fit additional devices: a vise, milling cutter, circular saw and other devices. To small tool was available, drawers or shelves should be arranged nearby for its storage.

Before you build a workbench, you need to decide on its design and dimensions. One of the main parameters is the height of the table. When performing work, the master should be comfortable, he should not experience any discomfort. To determine the height, you need to stand up straight and bend your elbows, mentally leaning on an imaginary table. Height between arms folded and floor will be the desired value.

In addition, you need to decide on the configuration of the workbench, the width and length of the countertop. The width should not exceed 80-100 cm. This will make it easy to reach the opposite edge, where tool shelves can be organized. The length will depend on the area of ​​​​the workshop and on the number of fixtures that are planned to be fixed to the surface. It is better to equip the space under the workbench with a cabinet or drawers to store Consumables and other items.

It is also important to decide whether the workbench will be a stationary structure or mobile, which can be disassembled and transferred to another place. If a mobile version is being built, then it is more rational to make the structure lighter, using a material of lesser thickness. Also at mobile version there must be folding legs or a removable tabletop.

The place where the workbench will stand should be bright. To provide additional lighting and operation of the equipment, it is necessary to provide for the installation of electrical sockets and switches. Electric wires located near the machine, it is required to enclose in a corrugated pipe or a special box.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, you need to draw up a diagram of the future design, on which you indicate all the dimensions, and indicate the attachment points. This will help to correctly calculate the required amount of material and not make mistakes during assembly. To make the frame of the future workbench, it is best to use a wooden beam. For legs, it is worth choosing blanks with a size of at least 100x70 or 100x80 mm, jumpers can be built from a thinner material, for example, 100x50 mm. For countertops, flat boards are used, the thickness of which is at least 50 mm. It is necessary to choose hardwood: oak, beech, maple. Then the workbench will be strong and stable.

To make a carpentry workbench on your own, you will need the following materials and tools:

1. Wooden beam.
2. Boards.
3. Bolts, screws.
4. Glue.
5. Wood saw.
6. Hammer.
7. Mallet.
8. Drill and drills.
9. Sandpaper or Sander.
10. Chisel.
11. Building level and square.

Stages of construction

The workbench is built in two stages. First, the frame is assembled, and then the countertop is installed.

All work is carried out in strict accordance with the drawing. Each connection is checked with a level and a square.

Figure 2. Scheme of the workbench frame clamp.

The base of the structure is a frame of bars (Fig. 2). To make it as rigid as possible, at a height of 40-50 cm from the floor, a horizontal jumper is installed between the legs, and along the length - the side. Subsequently, they can become the basis for tool boxes. The upper part of the frame is reinforced with diagonal lintels. To fasten the parts together, a tenon-groove connection with pre-gluing is used. Where such a connection is not possible, self-tapping screws can be used.

If the workbench is being built in a mobile version, then the support frame is assembled using metal corners. If it is not planned to move the structure, then the frame can be screwed to the wall and to the floor. This will make it stronger and more stable.

Figure 3. Assembling the workbench.

For the countertop, a single canvas or individual boards can be used. In the case of boards, you need to carefully fit them to each other. There should be no cracks or irregularities on the surface. The dimensions of the countertop should exceed the base by 10-15 cm.

To connect the boards to each other and attach them to the base, you will need 3 bars, the length of which is equal to the width of the table top. They are located across the boards (Fig. 3). Grooves must be made on the base into which these bars will enter. To fix the tabletop on the base, metal corners are used.

The surface must be carefully sanded with sandpaper or a grinder. Then it should be covered with drying oil.

The second life of the old table

You can make a convenient workbench with your own hands from any material, for example, from an old table. Any design is suitable for this, the main condition is that it is not too old. Before as old table will start new life, it needs to be prepared. All fasteners must be inspected and tightened. If cracks or chips are found on the supporting frame, it is necessary to install metal linings in these places. This technique will add more strength to the details of the table. In addition, the wood must be treated with special antiseptic agents to prevent its deterioration.

When assembling a workbench, you need to take into account that its surface must be thick enough so that it can not break when struck.

After preparatory work you can assemble a workbench. The surface of the countertop must be durable to withstand the severity of any work. For its construction, you need to choose boards with a thickness of at least 3 cm. They must be sequentially installed on the surface of the table and secured with self-tapping screws. The boards must be tightly fitted to each other so that there are no cracks on the surface.

The dimensions of the new countertop should exceed the old base by 15-20 cm. This allowance is necessary for convenient and reliable installation of additional equipment.

To store tools and other necessary materials, you need to make boxes. They should be made strong, with convenient systems and reliable fittings. The number of boxes and their dimensions depend on the desire of the master and the size of the workbench. You need to install them so that they do not interfere with work.

Arrangement of the workplace

On the finished workbench, you can attach the necessary devices for work. To install the vise, you need to prepare recesses on the tabletop, and provide a plywood gasket on the underside. Their vertical plate should be in the same plane with the table surface. The vise must be applied to the surface and the attachment points marked. When using bolts, the holes for their heads must be pre-treated with a cutter. Due to this, the bolt heads will sink into the surface.

In addition to the vise, stops can be installed on the workbench. It is best to use rectangular ones that can be adjusted in height. They will allow you to process various parts, fixing them securely. Holes must be provided for the installation of stops on the tabletop. The workbench can be equipped with any turning equipment, but it is mainly used as an ordinary flat surface, which is convenient to work on.

1. Design features
2. Types of workbenches
3. Production material
4. Preparatory stage
5. Tools and materials
6. Assembly instructions

The workbench is carpentry, or turning, - a massive, stable, stationary or portable desktop. Workpieces of various calibers are processed on it with manual or electrical equipment. To ensure reliable fixation of the tool, the table top is equipped with technological holes.

Design features

Workbenches for home workshops should be easy to use, include shelves, drawers. Design:

• supporting frame on four legs;
• countertop made of wood or metal sheet;
• bedside table (one or more) for storing accessories, spare parts.

Bedside tables are installed along the edges of the work surface, often equipped with shelves, drawers.

Garage or workshop, where the carpenter's table will be installed, must have an outlet to turn on a stationary rotary directional lamp. The lamp is usually mounted on a wall or directly on a work surface - a workbench.

Types of workbenches

Tables are:

• carpentry,
• plumbing.

In the first case, the structure consists of a metal or wooden frame and wooden table top. Not suitable for processing metal workpieces that are turned with machine oil: a wooden workbench absorbs oily liquid. In addition, metal shavings quickly render the lid unusable.

The second option is a universal workbench. Its galvanized iron worktop is suitable for working with wood and metals. The design is more stable, hardy, withstands increased pressure. On it you can do sharpening, grinding, sawing, cutting blanks. The workbench can be monolithic and folding. A drawing of a homemade workbench is shown in the image.

Production material

To make a homemade carpentry workbench, you need a cutting board or sheet metal. A metal table is more resistant to mechanical stress, but it is difficult to assemble.

For the manufacture of a metal workbench, it is necessary to draw up a drawing with dimensions individual elements. When assembling a folding or solid board workbench, you will need the usual set of tools.

The metal sample is heavy, the wooden sample is not very hardy. You can combine these two materials in one product: make a desktop out of wood, reinforce the countertop with a thin sheet of iron.

Preparatory stage

First you need to determine the shape and dimensions of the workbench, choose the place of its installation. To ensure that the workplace is always well lit, the light should fall from the left or straight ahead.. Often sockets with an extension cord are mounted on the surface of a workbench.

The length of the tabletop should be sufficient for processing workpieces, placing tools.

The optimal width parameters are 50–60 cm. One edge of the table is usually used for working with a circular saw, other power tools. Therefore, a safety bar with a protrusion of 20–30 cm is fixed there.

Convenience at work depends on the height of the workbench. In order to determine this parameter, you need to stand up straight, bend your arms at the elbows. The distance from the floor to the arms bent at the elbows is optimal for a stationary or folding workbench.

Tools and materials

Would need:

• welding machine;
• angle grinder with saw bladedesigned for metal cutting;
• drill, screwdriver;
• level, tape measure
• welding machine, set of electrodes;
• electric jigsaw for sawing plywood.

materials:

• Metal corner, a strip of steel 4 mm thick.
• Sheet steel 2 mm thick. From it guides for boxes, the top covering of a table-top are made.
• Wooden board 50 mm thick, 25 cm wide for the work surface.
• Plywood 15 mm thick. It is intended for boxes, walls of a workbench.
• Fasteners: metal screws, anchor bolts, screws.
• 2mm square tube.
• Paint for painting wood and metal surfaces.

From edged boards construct a countertop, shelves, strips of steel are useful for the manufacture of edging sides.

Assembly instructions

To start from metal corner make 4 identical legs. The supports in the upper part are connected by a similar corner using welding machine. You should get a design of 50 x 100 cm. To provide the table with additional rigidity, pieces of a corner are welded at a height of 10–15 cm from the floor. Optionally, racks can be provided that serve as a mount for drawers, shelves.

Wooden boards must be laid on the frame, tightly fixed with bolts, having previously provided metal carcass and the boards themselves with technological holes for fasteners.

Wooden countertops do not withstand heavy loads. Galvanized steel for protection right size. It is fixed over the boards with self-tapping screws.

When cutting, metal edges are often covered with burrs. For safety, it is recommended to grind them with a file.

For greater stability, the legs in the lower part can be equipped with metal plates with holes for fasteners. It is also recommended to screw the workbench to the floor. On the side of the structure adjacent to the wall, often installed metal screen. It is convenient to place small tools on it.

It is customary to call a carpentry workbench a table of a special design with a solid and durable surface that allows mounting various devices and mechanisms on it. In addition, the surface of such a table must be adapted for rigid fixing of additional stationary equipment on it ( circular saw, for example, or a small router) used for processing common materials such as wood or metal.

Before you make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for this device, as well as with some of the most popular options.

Design requirements

The working characteristics of the table-workbench are:

• Its height, adjusted to the height of the user, allows you to work in comfortable conditions without slouching, while maintaining a fairly comfortable position. For people of average height, this value can range from 70 to 90 cm.
• Dimensions of the tabletop, selected for reasons of the possibility of placing everything on it necessary tool, as well as taking into account the dimensions of the processed workpieces.
• A set of fixtures mounted on a workbench, determined by the need to perform certain operations and providing for the presence of several stops and a clamp (screw vice).
• Adaptability "under the arm" of its owner, who may turn out to be left-handed.

Most suitable for self-manufacturing is a variant of a prefabricated workbench, consisting of a frame base with a table top installed on it. The length of such a design usually does not exceed 2 meters (with a tabletop width of about 80–100 cm).

Before starting work, you should decide whether your workbench will be a stationary fixture, or whether it should be folding (collapsible).

Material selection

The most suitable material for the construction of a stationary workbench is considered to be wood, from which load-bearing base with support frames, as well as the countertop itself. For the manufacture of frames, a standard planed beam with a section of 100 × 70 mm is best suited. As auxiliary jumpers that increase the rigidity of the frame base, the same bar can be used, but with a slightly smaller section (100 × 50 mm, for example).

The table top of the workbench can be assembled from well-cut and tightly fitted boards, at least 5 cm thick. In addition, a finished solid canvas (an old solid door, for example) or a blank cut from laminated chipboard with a reliable and durable finish can be used for its manufacture. coated.

When choosing a material, preference should be given to hardwoods, such as, for example, beech, oak or maple.

Construction assembly

The manufacture of a workbench begins with the assembly of a frame base, on which a countertop of your choice is subsequently installed. The order of operations performed in this case is as follows:

1. First of all, the supporting sidewalls are assembled, equipped in the form of two frame structures made of timber with a section of 100 × 70 mm.
2. Then these frames are connected in the upper part by two longitudinal bars, which, together with the upper lintels of the frames, serve as supports for the tabletop. (Note that for reliable fastening of individual elements to each other in the design we are describing, it is best to use the classic “thorn-to-groove” connection with mandatory gluing of the docking areas).
3. The lower parts of the support frames are fastened with longitudinal jumpers made of timber 100 × 50 mm, which are mounted at a level of 15–20 cm from the floor. (For their fastening, it is best to use a bolted connection recessed from the body of the bar).
4. In the process of manufacturing frame supports, grooves and spikes are first prepared in blanks, after which the entire structure is assembled in one go (after applying glue to the joints).

During the assembly process, special attention must be paid to the next working moment, which determines the quality of all subsequent installation. When preparing the base of the workbench at each stage of the work performed, it is necessary to monitor the compliance of the dimensions of individual elements with the design data, as well as control the horizontalness of their installation using the building level.

In the case of the manufacture of countertops from planed boards, the latter must be tightly fitted to one another, so that there are no gaps in which debris usually accumulates. Its dimensions should be slightly larger (by 1.5–2 cm) than the dimensions of the supporting base formed by frames and longitudinal bars, which guarantees the convenience of placing auxiliary equipment on the table.

When assembling the tabletop, the boards are nailed or screwed with screws to the transverse bars located on its reverse plane. At the very base, special grooves for these bars should be prepared. The surface of the finished countertop is first carefully sanded, and then treated with a protective solution (lining oil is usually used for these purposes). To fix it on the base, special metal corners can be additionally used.

Regarding the installation of working devices and mechanisms (vices, stops, etc.) on the workbench, the following can be said:

1. It is most convenient to place a working vice on the end of the countertop, having prepared in advance a small recess for fasteners at the installation site. WITH reverse side table in the attachment area, it is necessary to provide a plywood gasket that protects the surface from damage.
2. In addition, special stops should be located on the surface of the tabletop, fixing the workpiece in working area and making it easier to work with. On the wooden table top it is most convenient to mount rectangular stops (pegs), which are adjusted in height to the workpiece being processed and securely fix it.
3. Sometimes stops are made by simply building up the countertop using bars of suitable thickness, fixed at its edge and closed on the back side with a limiting bar.

In the event that there is not enough space in the garage or workshop, you can make a folding workbench consisting of a tabletop that leans against the wall and a special folding frame.

This design is very easy to disassemble and when folded takes up very little space. When making it, you should pay attention to the fact that the width of the support legs of the folding workbench does not exceed half the length of the tabletop (so that they do not interfere with each other when folding).

You also need to take care that the top crossbar on the supports is located below the board with the fastening of the hinge of the reclining tabletop. The material for the manufacture of a folding workbench table can be any monolithic chipboard blank.

The supporting frames of the structure are made of bars 100 × 40 mm, the articulation of which is carried out using pre-prepared metal plates, fixed on the racks and lintels using bolts of the appropriate size.

Video

This video shows the process of building a carpentry workbench:

Photo