(function(w, d, n, s, t) ( w[n] = w[n] || ; w[n].push(function() ( Ya.Context.AdvManager.render(( blockId: "RA -261686-3", renderTo: "yandex_rtb_R-A-261686-3", async: true )); )); t = d.getElementsByTagName("script"); s = d.createElement("script"); s .type = "text/javascript"; s.src = "//an.yandex.ru/system/context.js"; s.async = true; t.parentNode.insertBefore(s, t); ))(this , this.document, "yandexContextAsyncCallbacks");
I welcome everyone! By popular demand, I am writing about cleaning copper-nickel and bronze coins. The method, as far as I know, is the most effective. I will not torment you, welcome under cat.
For cleaning we need a container. I took a jar of under (green peas), table vinegar (acetic acid or essence) and salt. In order not to climb your fingers into an aggressive solution, we take tweezers. Well, do not forget about the coins themselves. Begin:
(function(w, d, n, s, t) ( w[n] = w[n] || ; w[n].push(function() ( Ya.Context.AdvManager.render(( blockId: "RA -261686-2", renderTo: "yandex_rtb_R-A-261686-2", async: true )); )); t = d.getElementsByTagName("script"); s = d.createElement("script"); s .type = "text/javascript"; s.src = "//an.yandex.ru/system/context.js"; s.async = true; t.parentNode.insertBefore(s, t); ))(this , this.document, "yandexContextAsyncCallbacks");
- We put a tablespoon of salt in a container and pour it with vinegar and stir, we need enough vinegar so that the coins are completely in the solution, you don’t need much. The salt will not dissolve, it's not scary.
- We throw coins into this solution. In the case of bronze ones, only a few minutes are enough, after which we pull it out, wipe it and without fanaticism with three erasers. Copper-nickel ones take longer to clean. Before cleaning, wash off all the earth from the coins, otherwise there may be dark spots. We throw coins into the solution and wait. In the process of cleaning, you will see how the coin turns white. In no case do not heat the jar with the solution, otherwise the corpses of the coins are provided to you.
- After a few minutes, the coin can be removed from the container and lightly rubbed with an eraser and evaluate the cleaning process. Not cleaned, send again to the bank. So until the coin fully acquires its natural color.
Well, a video to consolidate the material))
I also advise you subscribe to the channel "Old Vyatka", where you will find many videos about detecting, metal detectors, navigation, cartography and coin care:
That's all. Coins are ready for your collection or for sale. Good luck to everyone in your search!
VK.Widgets.Subscribe("vk_subscribe", (), 55813284);
(function(w, d, n, s, t) ( w[n] = w[n] || ; w[n].push(function() ( Ya.Context.AdvManager.render(( blockId: "RA -261686-5", renderTo: "yandex_rtb_R-A-261686-5", async: true )); )); t = d.getElementsByTagName("script"); s = d.createElement("script"); s .type = "text/javascript"; s.src = "//an.yandex.ru/system/context.js"; s.async = true; t.parentNode.insertBefore(s, t); ))(this , this.document, "yandexContextAsyncCallbacks");
Cleaning and restoration of Soviet coins, despite all the seeming simplicity, the procedure is quite painstaking and complicated. And first of all, this is due to the fact that the coins of the USSR periods had several different issues that differed various materials manufacturing. Accordingly, based on the material that was used to issue the coin, different methods cleaning. And for this you need to have at least minimal knowledge about the issues of coins themselves.
Moreover, if we take into account that most of the coins of the period of the Soviet Union to this day have a low market value, then the question of the relevance of the cleaning process involuntarily arises. Is the game worth the candle?
Description of coin issues in the period 1924-1993
So, in the tables below, your attention is presented to the USSR coins of various issues with a small description, photographs and an indication of the material from which they are made.
The first coins of the USSR period were issued in 1924 after the monetary reform of 1922-1924. These were copper coins of 1, 2, 3 and 5 kopecks, 10, 15 and 20 kopeck silver coins of 10, 15 and 20 kopecks, and 900 silver coins of 1 fifty kopecks and 1 ruble. Subsequently, a copper coin with a denomination of half a kopeck was added to this coin series.
| Coins sample 1924-1925 | |||||
| The photo | Denomination | Weight, G. |
Diameter, mm |
years release |
Material |
| half a penny | 1,64 | 16,00 | 1925, 1927, 1928 |
copper | |
 |
1 penny |
3,27 | 23,10 | 1924, 1925 |
|
 |
2 pennies |
6,55 | 24,00 | 1924, 1925 |
|
 |
3 pennies |
9,80 | 27,70 | 1924 | |
 |
5 kopecks |
16,38 | 32,00 | 1924 | |
 |
10 kopecks |
1,80 | 17,27 | 1924-1925, 1927-1931 |
silver 500 samples |
 |
15 kopecks |
2,70 | 19,56 | 1924-1925, 1927-1931 |
|
 |
20 kopecks |
3,60 | 21,84 | 1924-1925, 1927-1931 |
|
 |
1 half a ruble |
10,00 | 26,67 | 1924-1927 | silver 900 samples |
 |
1 ruble |
20,00 | 33,50 | 1924 | |
The coins of the next issue were the result of the decision of the Central Executive Committee and the Council of People's Commissars of January 6, 1926. The decision to mint new coins, in the first place, was caused by large sizes and the weight of the money of the first issue. Accordingly, in 1926, new aluminum bronze coins were issued in denominations of 1, 2, 3 and 5 kopecks.
| Coins sample 1926-1931 | |||||
| The photo | Denomination | Weight, G. |
Diameter, mm |
years release |
Material |
 |
1 penny |
1,00 | 15,00 | 1926-1935 | aluminum bronze |
 |
2 pennies |
2,00 | 18,00 | 1926-1935 | |
 |
3 pennies |
3,00 | 22,00 | 1926-1935 | |
 |
5 kopecks |
5,00 | 25,00 | 1926-1935 | |
 |
10 kopecks |
1,80 | 17,27 | 1931-1934 | nickel |
 |
15 kopecks |
2,70 | 19,56 | 1931-1934 | |
 |
20 kopecks |
3,60 | 21,84 | 1931-1934 | |
The coins of the 1935 issue remained unchanged in terms of materials and sizes. The image on the obverse of bronze coins of 1, 2, 3 and 5 kopecks was somewhat simplified, and the reverse was changed on nickel coins of 10, 15 and 20 kopecks.
| Coins of the sample of 1935 | |||||
| The photo | Denomination | Weight, G. |
Diameter, mm |
years release |
Material |
 |
1 penny |
1,00 | 15,00 | 1926-1935 | aluminum bronze |
 |
2 pennies |
2,00 | 18,00 | 1926-1935 | |
 |
3 pennies |
3,00 | 22,00 | 1926-1935 | |
 |
5 kopecks |
5,00 | 25,00 | 1926-1935 | |
 |
10 kopecks |
1,80 | 17,27 | 1931-1934 | nickel |
 |
15 kopecks |
2,70 | 19,56 | 1931-1934 | |
 |
20 kopecks |
3,60 | 21,84 | 1931-1934 | |
The next issue of coins of the USSR in 1961 brought more significant changes. The coins of this particular issue had the longest circulation period. Coins with denominations of 1, 2, 3 and 5 kopecks remained unchanged in size and weight, while a different material was chosen for their release - an alloy of copper and zinc. The production of nickel coins with a face value of 10.15 and 20 kopecks was suspended, and the production of copper-nickel coins of the same size and weight was launched. In addition, two new copper-nickel coins with a face value of 50 kopecks and 1 ruble were put into circulation.
| Coins of the sample of 1961 | |||||
| The photo | Denomination | Weight, G. |
Diameter, mm |
years release |
Material |
 |
1 penny |
1,00 | 15,00 | 1961-1991 | copper-zinc alloy |
 |
2 pennies |
2,00 | 18,00 | 1961-1991 | |
 |
3 pennies |
3,00 | 22,00 | 1961-1962, 1965-1991 |
|
 |
5 kopecks |
5,00 | 25,00 | 1961-1962, 1965-1991 |
|
 |
10 kopecks |
1,80 | 17,27 | 1961-1962, 1965-1991 |
copper-nickel alloy |
 |
15 kopecks |
2,50 | 19,56 | 1961-1962, 1965-1991 |
|
 |
20 kopecks |
3,40 | 21,80 | 1961-1962, 1965-1991 |
|
 |
50 kopecks |
4,40 | 24,00 | 1961, 1964-1991 |
|
 |
1 ruble |
7,50 | 27,00 | 1961, 1964-1991 |
|
The final issue of Soviet change banknotes took place in 1991. It was represented by the following coins: 10 and 50 kopecks, 1, 5 and 10 rubles.
| Coins of the sample of 1991 | |||||
| The photo | Denomination | Weight, G. |
Diameter, mm |
years release |
Material |
 |
10 kopecks |
1,25 | 17,60 | 1991 | Steel clad with brass |
 |
50 kopecks |
2,30 | 18,00 | Alloy of copper and nickel | |
 |
1 ruble |
3,75 | 21,00 | ||
 |
5 rubles |
5,25 | 24,00 | ||
 |
10 rubles |
6,25 | 25,00 | 1991, 1992 |
Bimetal: center - copper-zinc alloy, ring - copper-nickel alloy |
Now that we have dealt with the materials from which the coins of the former Union were made, we can proceed to the methods of cleaning them. Separately, I would like to say that, despite all the variety of methods for cleaning a particular coin at home, only one can be suitable! or several at once! Only experience or the advice of a more “older” comrade will help you understand all this. If you doubt your knowledge and strength, then it’s better not to take it at all, otherwise, as a result of cleaning, you can get the opposite effect.
How to clean copper coins
So, having a handful of copper tokens from the times of the former Soviet Union in your hands, you can begin the restoration procedure. Copper coins from 1924-1925 can be cleaned in several ways:
- the easiest and, perhaps, the safest way to clean copper coins (and, by the way, other artifacts made of copper) is using regular soap. The principle of the method is quite simple - the soap solution is essentially a slightly alkaline medium, which gradually corrodes the oxides on the coin and allows them to be easily removed with a brush. Hence the main disadvantage of this method, the action of the solution is very weak and sometimes quite serious time costs (sometimes months) are required in order to clean the coin to the desired quality.
To prepare the solution, you need to take some kind of bowl and grate soap on a coarse grater. It should be remembered that the highest content of alkalis is present in laundry soap, the smallest - in children's soap. Soap grated on a grater should be poured with boiling water until a liquid mass is obtained in a consistency similar to thick sour cream. Coins must be immersed in this mass, it is desirable that they do not cake on each other and are covered with soap on all sides. In this solution, our coins remain for several days, they must be periodically stirred and turned over.
After a certain period of time, the coins must be taken out and with a toothbrush with a cut pile, try to remove the oxides under a stream of warm water. If the cleaning did not bring the long-awaited result, then the procedure must be repeated. Those. the coins are again sent to the soap, then they are taken out again and washed again. And so on until you achieve the desired effect. After that, the coin should be cleaned with a toothbrush and baking soda so that no white soap residue remains on its surface. Actually, the whole method.
— lemon acid. In this case, the coin is immersed in a solution of citric acid, but you should think 100 times before using this method, since lemon is a potent reagent. It's great for cleaning silverware, but copper can erode in minutes.
- another potent preparator, in which, if desired, you can try to clean a heavily oxidized coin is ammonia. I repeat once again, with its help you need to clean only those coins whose oxides are not amenable to other more gentle means. Cleaning coins with ammonia occurs as usual: dip your "kakalik" into a solution of ammonia, which you can buy at any pharmacy and wait. The reaction will be very intense. Therefore, often take out a coin and rinse with a toothbrush under warm water.
– coin cleaning procedure electrolysis it is possible only if the latter does not have pronounced damage on its surface and the oxides of various salts have not corroded deep caverns in your coin. This requirement is dictated by the fact that when processing by electrolysis, all flaws and shortcomings will be extremely clearly expressed.
Electrolysis cleaning is performed as follows: a coin is attached to the cathode of a direct current source (“-”), and any copper object is attached to the anode (“+”). A simple power supply can serve as a current source, for example, from charging to a cell phone. After that, both electrodes are immersed in the electrolyte and voltage is applied. As an electrolyte, you can use a solution of ordinary baking soda in water in proportions of 2 tbsp. spoons per litre. Cleaning can take from several minutes to an hour, depending on the size of the coin, the degree of oxidation and the power of the current source.
- boiling coins soda solution. Quite uncomplicated, fast enough, but at the same time a very effective cleaning technique. Actually, the process technology itself is already briefly contained in the title. Copper coins are boiled in a solution of soda in water. To prepare the solution, you need to take 3 ... 5 tbsp. tablespoons of soda per 0.5 liters. water. The soda solution should cover our exhibits by about 2 cm so that during the cooking process they do not end up on top of the solution. The cooking process lasts approximately 30 minutes. After that, we take out each coin separately and rub it with gruel from the same soda with a toothbrush under a stream of thermal water. This method is also good for use at home, which is in almost every home and no additional costs are required to purchase it.
- cleaning vinegar. Vinegar, like any other acid, can be used in cleaning. But this should be done very carefully and in exceptional cases. Because any acid destroys the patina on the coin, damages the relief, opens caverns. Cleaning should be done with a 7-20% strength vinegar solution from any grocery store.
— ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt or, more simply, Trilon B (complexone-III, helaton III). An excellent cleaning agent designed to make salts of various metals from insoluble to soluble. Thus, on coins under the influence of Trilon B solution, many oxides and, unfortunately, patina are easily washed off. It is advisable to use this preparation if the coin is evenly covered with oxides.
— mechanical cleaning. A rather complicated and painstaking process that cannot be explained in a nutshell, so a separate article will be devoted to this cleaning method.
How to Clean Aluminum Bronze Coins
In most cases, an aluminum bronze coin is cleaned in the same way as a copper coin, with a number of certain exceptions. The most acceptable ways:
- electrolysis. When using this method, do not forget about safety, do not allow direct contact between the anode and cathode, otherwise a short circuit will occur.
- ammonia. Ammonium chloride is more gentle on an aluminum bronze coin than on a copper item, so this method is more applicable in this case.
- Trilon B. Trilon B solution in most cases easily removes all oxides, while not interacting with the metal of the product being cleaned. Even after a sufficiently long stay in the solution, the coin does not collapse and does not change its color. The strongest oxides require a sufficiently long interaction with Trilon B, up to several days, but the process can be accelerated by heating the solution.
- paste GOI. It is a method of abrasive cleaning, which is highly undesirable for coins in general, and is generally contraindicated for rare coins.
Silver coin cleaning
Silver, unlike copper and bronze, is not as active chemical element, therefore, they can be used more actively to clean the silver coins of the former Union.
If used for cleaning citric acid, then to prepare the solution, you need to put 2 teaspoons of concentrated lemon juice in a glass of thermal water. At the same time, a volume of 10 ... 20 ml is enough to clean one coin. solution. The coin is immersed in this solution for about 10 minutes. After that, the softened oxides are removed and with the help of a toothbrush.
We do the same with ammonia. It takes about 5-10 ml to process one coin. 10% ammonia solution. In both cases, the coin must be turned over during the soaking process so that the procedure goes evenly on both sides.
Cleaning nickel and cupro-nickel coins
In the field of cleaning these coins, nothing new has been invented either. All the same methods are used as for cleaning coins of the previous types. With only one amendment, that when cleaning copper-nickel coins with vinegar, an unpleasant reddish or pink tint may appear.
One of the frequent finds on the dig is Soviet small things with a face value of 10, 15, 20 kopecks, made from a special alloy of copper and nickel. Such pennies are distinguished by a reddish color, but originally they were white and shiny, like silver. But, since there is copper among the components of cupronickel, it is she who is “responsible” for the appearance of a red coating. If you are wondering how to return the coin to a look close to the original, then here is a way for you to clean it.
He came to us from cooking. In Soviet times, there were many cupronickel teaspoons and ladles. They had the property of darkening, acquiring a brownish tint. And every housewife had a note on how to save her kitchen utensils from such a misfortune.
Basically the recipe itself.
What is needed for cleaning?
You will need: baking soda, foil, boiling water (just from the kettle). Well, and, in fact, the coins themselves - 10, 15, 20 kopecks 1931-34, which are either stored in your “bins of the motherland”, or were recently found on a mine. Note that the specimens extracted from the ground most often look frankly bad, are in a disgusting state of preservation.
Coin before cleaning
cleaning process
We take a small enameled container. I put foil. We fill its surface with soda in an even layer of two or three millimeters. Then we lay out the coins on the soda.
We also cover them with soda in the same layer as the first. Cooking boiling water: if the kettle is electric, and the water boiled 10 minutes ago, turn it on again. Pour everything prepared with boiling water.
All this is closed with a lid and safely left for 12 hours.
After the expiration, we take out the coins from the solution, wash, clean with a toothbrush. You can with soap, toothpaste, dishwashing detergent - whatever you want.
Coin after first cleaning.
The procedure has to be repeated up to two or three times, so that most of the red plaque is gone.
Note that after cleaning, damage will immediately become noticeable on the coins. Where the surface is smooth, there will be a silvery sheen, and where there are chips and scratches, the surface will remain dull, darkish and matte.
How to store coins at home? The main thing is the absence of humidity and direct sunlight. At the same time, it is important to properly organize the storage of the collection. There are three types of organizers.
- Albums. Each of the pages is divided into several compartments with plastic pockets. Items are stored without touching each other, they are easy and interesting to consider.
- Tablets. Made from cardboard. Slots are made on the sheet, with the help of which coins are fixed.
- Pencil cases. They are two layers of glass, between which products are placed in special compartments. Devices not only allow you to view products from all sides, but also reliably protect against dust and moisture.
Coins from different metals: care features
How to clean coins to make them shine? It depends on the metal. Each material is characterized by some features that determine the care.
Table - Features of caring for coins from different metals
| Metal | Peculiarities | How to clean | Taboo |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gold | - Does not need frequent or aggressive cleaning; - easy to scratch even with a regular rag | Laundry soap | - Intense friction; - use of abrasives |
| Silver | - Oxidized | - Ammonia; - hydrogen peroxide; - soda; - toothpaste; - "Trilon B" (for low standard) | - intense friction |
| Copper | - Subject to patina formation | - Vinegar; - lemon acid; - Trilon B | - Removal of a thin layer of patina in the absence of corrosion and other damage |
| Bronze | - Formation of pink, dark brown or black plaque | - Vinegar; - lemon acid; - Trilon B | - Removal of patina (reduces value); - treatment with nitric and sulfuric acids |
Many questions are raised by the cleaning of bimetallic coins. Experts recommend treating them with Asidol. Due to the soft abrasive, the product quickly removes dirt from the metal surface.
Universal household products
When looking for a way to quickly clean old coins, care must be taken not to damage the metal. If you are new to numismatics, use one of the four universal tools.
Vinegar and toothpaste for rust
- To clean coins from rust and oxidation, mix equal amounts of toothpaste and vinegar.
- Rub the mixture over the surface in a circular motion.
- Remove leftovers cold water and wipe dry.
If you want to clean steel products, you just need to dip them in table vinegar. After ten minutes, the pollution should move away.
Soda for cleaning royal coins
- Before cleaning royal copper coins, take a scraper and carefully remove traces of earth, clay and other contaminants from the surface.
- Dissolve a tablespoon of baking soda in a glass of water.
- Boil the solution and put metal money in it.
- Continue heating the liquid for another half hour.
- Wash and dry items.
- If the result is not satisfactory, repeat the procedure again.
Ammonia for silver and bronze
- Prepare a solution of one part ammonia and nine parts water.
- To clean silver coins from green plaque, dip them in liquid.
- After an hour, remove the products and wipe well with a dry cloth.
- When it comes to cleaning bronze coins, then they should not be rubbed. Just wrap in a soft cloth.
Under the influence of ammonia, bronze can change color. To remove pink stains from aluminum bronze coins, rub them with toothpaste.
Carbonated drinks for cupronickel
- Cleaning cupronickel coins begins with the fact that they need to be laid out on the bottom of a glass container.
- Fill them with Coca-Cola or other carbonated drink.
- Metal money must be kept in liquid for seven days.
- To ensure even cleaning, turn the products daily.
Cleaning USSR coins at home does not cause much trouble. Such specimens were used relatively recently, and therefore complex pollution and darkening on them are rare. Cleaning Soviet money with aggressive detergents is strictly prohibited. More suitable folk remedies.
baking soda, ammonia and toothpaste
- To clean white Soviet coins, mix equal amounts of baking soda, toothpaste, and ammonia.
- Apply the mixture to a cloth and rub the metal thoroughly.
- Remove any residue with a brush.
- Rinse coins and wipe dry.
A paste of soda, toothpaste and ammonia can be prepared for the future. Place in a resealable container and store in the refrigerator until next use.
citric acid
- Dissolve half a teaspoon of citric acid in a glass of boiling water.
- Hold the coin with tweezers and lower it into the solution for 15-20 seconds.
- Rinse the product in water and wipe dry.
You can not keep money in acidified water for longer than the specified time. With prolonged exposure, the product will lose its luster.
Cleaning copper coins: 3 ways
How to clean a copper coin at home? A problematic issue, since copper is considered a "capricious" metal. Based on the experience of numismatists, three gentle and effective means can be distinguished.
laundry soap
- Pour a glass of boiling water into a plastic container and add a tablespoon of grated laundry soap.
- When the chips are completely dissolved, dip the metal money into the liquid.
- Close the container tightly with a lid or tighten with a film and leave for three days.
- After the specified time, remove the coins and remove the layer of dirt with a brush.
- Rinse off the soap with cold water and pat dry.
- If it was not possible to completely clean the products, repeat the procedure several more times.
To speed up the cleansing process, add a teaspoon of baking soda to the soap solution. Pre-dissolve the substance in a quarter cup of water, pour into a container.
Oil painting
- Pour vaseline or olive oil into a saucepan and put on fire.
- As soon as the oil boils, put the coins in it.
- Continue boiling until the impurities are removed from the metal.
- When the oil has cooled, remove the products and wipe with medical alcohol.
Similarly, coins can be boiled in laundry soap. This tool works more gently.
Vinegar
- Before applying cleanser copper coins, wash the product well in soapy water.
- Places that have undergone corrosion, rub with a cotton swab dipped in table 9% vinegar.
- Rinse the product in cold water and dry.
How to clean coins with electrolysis
Electrolysis is one of the fastest and effective ways cleaning metal from dirt and darkening. At the same time, the technique is dangerous, as it involves the use of electricity. And the risk of spoiling the coin increases. If you are confident in your abilities, follow the instructions clearly.
- Cut off the plug from the 12 volt power supply.
- Separate the double wire and expose its ends.
- Solder copper wires to metal clamps.
- V plastic container pour half a liter of water and dilute a tablespoon of soda (you can also use salt).
- Plug the power supply into a power outlet, and place the clamps in a container so that they do not touch each other.
- Connect the clip from which the hiss comes from to the coin, and attach the second to any metal object. It can be a key or a spoon.
- It can take anywhere from 40 minutes to four hours to polish old coins. It all depends on the degree of contamination of the product.
- Unplug the appliance and carefully remove the clips from the water.
- brush metal product brush with liquid soap.
Electrolysis must be carried out in a well-ventilated area. Also, don't forget to protect your eyes with goggles and put on rubber gloves on your hands.
4 more taboos
When looking for a way to polish coins, give them shine and shine, it is important not to overdo it. Careless handling of tools or cleaning agents can lead to damage to precious pieces. To prevent this from happening, you need to remember four taboos.
- Use of strong abrasives. If the coin is valuable, do not use washing powder, soda and other rough substances for cleaning. This may cause scratches and damage to the pattern.
- Digestion of damaged products. If there are cracks or signs of corrosion, do not expose the product to high temperatures.
- The use of dangerous methods by beginners. If you are a non-professional in numismatics, you should not clean coins with electrolysis or harsh chemicals.
- Prolonged exposure to cleaning agents. If the coin is exposed to substances for longer than the instructions, this may lead to a violation of the structure of the product.
Metal money should be in contact with each other, with hands and with other foreign substances as little as possible. If you need to remove the product from the organizer, wash and dry it thoroughly before returning it to its place. This will help keep the metal from tarnishing.
If you are just starting your numismatist journey, remember that cleaning coins at home cannot return them to perfection. original view. Therefore, if there are valuable specimens on hand, it is important to protect them from darkening and contamination. Before hiding the product in the organizer, wipe thoroughly with alcohol and lubricate with petroleum jelly.
If you ask a numismatist how to clean a coin from 1931 to 1957 with a denomination of 10 to 20 kopecks, then most likely you will not receive adequate advice. These coins are minted from a copper-nickel alloy (also called cupronickel), when oxidized, the surface of the coin is coated from red to dark brown. It is almost impossible to remove this plaque without harm to the coin. But, even if you remove the plaque, the field of the coin will appear before you in the form of visible and not very visible caverns.
In most cases, cupro-nickel coins are not cleaned, even if some of them are rare varieties or "rare years", as improper cleaning can permanently kill the coin.
If you still have a great desire to clean your coins, but do not know how, then I will tell you about one interesting way to clean Soviet copper-nickel coins. I must say right away that I tried several methods on many dozens of coins, and settled on one. Of course, it has more minuses than pluses, but, most importantly, it has pluses.
I am not forcing anyone to use this particular cleaning method, you can only look at the following photos for the result, i.e. make sure what happened before and what happened after. If you like it, you can experiment with your inexpensive coins (but not rare ones).
The cleaning method is as follows: take a low container and pour 100 ml of water and 1 teaspoon of undiluted vinegar (which is in a glass bottle) into it. Place the coins in the solution so that they do not touch each other. Cover the container tightly with a lid (otherwise the solution will quickly evaporate). Once a day, using a metal sponge for washing dishes (a terrible tool for a numismatist), wipe the surface of the coins, but without much fanaticism. Instead of a sponge, it is also logical to use a brass brush (I don’t have it, as soon as I have a suitable hardness, I will experiment with it). Each time, put the coin back into the solution with the other side. On average, your coins will “shine” only 6-8 times.
Here are five coins of not rare years I chose for cleaning. Approximately 99 percent of all copper-nickel coins of this period, which have been in the ground for a long time, look like this.
Here is the result after two cleanings. As you can see, the redness has just begun to fade, but there are still a few days before the finale.
And this is how the coins look after the eighth cleaning. This is the final result. Please note that some coins may take a much longer time until the red coating completely disappears from them.
You need to answer a few questions that you will probably have:
- it is not dangerous for coins to use a metal sponge. As I wrote above, a large oxidation is very difficult to remove with chemistry alone. A metal sponge will facilitate and greatly speed up the cleaning process (otherwise the cleaning would have dragged on for several months). As I noticed, after cleaning, some scratches on the surface of the coins can be seen, but the coin will look like a well-polished one.
Is it possible to use some kind of abrasive powder instead of a metal sponge. I used both soda and Pemolux. In principle, they clean, but the coins after cleaning are very dull, and the fingers are completely blisters. It's not worth it.
You may be wondering what will happen to the coins in solution if you forget about them for a couple of weeks. The result is perfectly visible in the photo - you will become the owner of unique emerald-colored crystals.
