Cemetery fence paint is sometimes just thick ink, although it doesn’t hurt to remember the running time
Materials will be needed much easier, but this does not mean that the attitude towards them will be as simple.
- First, and the place obliges to the maximum responsibility.
- And, secondly, one should not forget about the conditions for the further existence of the paint and the coated material.
The answer to the question of what paint is better to paint the fence in the cemetery will not be too long, but there is still a choice.
And the conditions that must be taken into account are far from ideal.
What do we consider
Keep in mind that the metal of the fence:
- will be constantly under the influence of sunlight, which means ultraviolet and temperature, under the influence of which the metal simply heats up;
- will be exposed to fairly low temperatures in winter; these temperatures outside the city will always be maintained by strong penetrating winds;
Blue has a long tradition in this choice of what color to paint the fence in the cemetery
- will be periodically exposed to strong moisture, and outside the city, let's take into account, fogs are formed much more often, which can last for several days in a row;
- where there are fogs, there is all the chemistry that accumulates in the atmosphere and will be deposited on the fence;
- constantly exposed to microorganisms - from the apple tree that leaned nearby, snails, caterpillars, and fallen leaves will constantly fall on the fence.
It is always good when the painting of the fence in the cemetery is coordinated with other elements of the surrounding design.
And the consequence of all these adverse effects on the metal will be one thing - its corrosion and destruction.
The conclusion is also obvious - the fence must be periodically painted.
Fence painting
But the process itself must necessarily consist of two stages - the first, preparatory, and the second, already working with paint (learn also how to paint the house outside).
At the very least, it is important that everything be very clean and modest, “screaming” to nothing
Training
This stage is the most time-consuming, it will determine the success of the whole work.
Here we perform the following operations:
- Firstly, in the most thorough way we clean the entire surface of the fence to shiny metal. Here you don’t really have to almond, so the main tools will, of course, be a spatula, but also keep a large sandpaper, a metal brush on hand (or rather a few different sizes) and even a file. The completion of all cleaning should be a pleasant shiny metal surface of the entire fence. You may even want to leave it like that. This is not worth doing, because there is still processing to be done.
Forged parts are often simply varnished
While finishing the ceiling, we want to get not only aesthetic pleasure from the result of our work - the quality of the work performed and their durability are no less important.
For everything to work out as it should, knowledge alone on how to paint the ceiling without streaks: streaks and bumps is not enough. No less important components of the painting process are the right materials, dye and improvised tools. And, of course, the exact observance of all technological stages.
When making a choice: to paint or whitewash the surface, you should take into account the specifics of the room in which the repair is planned. From an economic point of view, whitewashing ceilings is the cheapest and most affordable way freshen up the room.
However, this option is absolutely unacceptable in the kitchen and bathroom, due to high humidity. For such rooms it is better to use water-based paint. The ceiling painted with it can be washed.
Of the tools in the process, you will only have to use a brush (for small, hard-to-reach areas) and a roller.
In order for the final result of painting to please you, the dye lays down correctly and evenly, discard the foam-based tool - working with such a roller, you will get defects in the form of streaks formed from excess water-based paint. But it is very convenient to whitewash the room with such a roller. For painting, it is better to take a fleecy seamless roller - it will not leave seam prints on the surface of the ceiling.
And the last.
Professionals recommend buying a dye "with a margin", that is, a little more than it is planned to use up - subsequently it will be very problematic to choose the right shade. When all materials and tools are purchased, you can get to work.
How to paint the ceiling with your own hands, so that it turns out smoothly and neatly? Experienced professionals recommend adhering to the following tips, their exact observance is the key to a successful result.
Before you start painting the ceiling, you need to process its outer surface layer.
If you plan to repair the kitchen, it is better to first (before working with water-based paint) apply a layer of starting putty, sanding cracks, bumps and protruding areas. A day after the screed has dried, it is desirable to dedust it. This is done for a more even and durable setting of the coloring composition.
When working with water-based paint, it is better to pre-paint the ceiling with some kind of primer. So the dye over time will not begin to crumble and crumble. Compliance with this rule is especially important when finishing the ceiling in the kitchen - under the influence external factors(soot, moisture, fever coming from heating devices) the surface layer is destroyed, and appearance the ceiling will lose its attractiveness, no matter what paint you use.
When trying to paint the ceiling yourself, wait for the time it takes for the primer to harden. If this is not done, then when trying to paint the surface with water-based paint, small grains of sand of the primer will mix with the coloring agent and the surface will be devoid of gloss and smoothness.
How to paint the surface correctly, from what angle to start, how to work with a roller: along or across the ceiling? These, at first glance, seeming little things, are not. When applying water-based paint with a roller, it will be correct to start from the area located above the door of the room, apply the strips across the primer strips.
The technology and principle of processing the ceiling with a coloring layer is similar to the technique of applying the primer: first, paint the corners and places where it is inconvenient to work with a roller with a small brush, then walk the dye over the entire surface.
How to roll professionally
Making repairs, both in the kitchen and in living rooms, you should not use a roller during the painting process, which was used for pre-priming. It's better to buy a new one.
To evenly paint the surface, you can dip it well with paint and let it soak.
This should be done regularly before applying the next stroke with a roller to the surface of the ceiling. So the layer of water-based paint will not be too thin, the coating will become smooth and shiny. You can use a container with a special mesh for squeezing out excess paint.
Make the stripes not too wide, as it should not begin to dry out before the next one is applied. Traces formed along the edge of the roller movement can be rolled out perpendicular to the direction of painting. And in order to immediately see minor defects and unevenly painted areas, you can ask someone close to control the process from time to time.
Try to avoid drafts, excess sun - you can ventilate the room no earlier than after 24 hours. That is how long it will take for the ceiling to dry completely.
Finishing stretch ceilings
If the decision is made to upgrade stretch ceiling, to improve their appearance by painting, you should be aware that only stretch ceilings that do not have connecting seams are processed in this way. Otherwise, the result is unlikely to please you.
For painting, it is preferable to take acrylic-based compositions, and use a spray gun in work. Professionals recommend not to carry out this procedure too often, as stretch ceilings increase in weight with each subsequent layer and sag over time. Therefore, paint tension ceiling structures can be no more than 4 - 5 times.
Experienced craftsmen consider it not advisable to try to paint stretch ceilings on their own, since even a good professional cannot afford to maintain the gloss and luster that they had before dyeing. After all, this fact makes them original and stylish. Having lost their former gloss and gloss, the tension surfaces attract dust and dirt more strongly, in addition, it becomes more noticeable.
And, finally, when exposed to temperature changes, using electric heaters, stretch ceiling structures “updated” by self-painting will inevitably begin to crack after a while - such a ceiling will no longer look perfectly even and smooth. You can, of course, update it again, only the effect will be short-lived.
If, for some reason, stretch coatings have lost their presentability and need urgent restoration, partial decoration with airbrushing (applying ornaments, drawings, etc.) will be an excellent alternative to painting. Artificially created, for example, imitation of the sky and clouds looks very stylish, creates a feeling of peace and comfort. Such stretch ceilings will impress neither children nor adults.
Now, knowing in general terms how to paint the ceiling correctly, what materials to prefer, what they “love” and what not, stretch ceiling structures, you can safely proceed to implement your most daring ideas and design decisions. Remember, only a combination of knowledge of painting technology, the ability to choose the right paint, primers and working tools will become a beautiful, high-quality and reliable finish for your ceilings.
Capital repairs in the apartment can not do without repair work on the ceiling. Step by step instruction how to paint the ceiling quickly and efficiently, read below.
The first thing to do is to find out what material the ceiling is made of. There are some peculiarities in how to paint a plasterboard ceiling or paint a concrete ceiling area covered with a layer of plaster.
Preliminary diagnosis of the ceiling
Carefully examine the external condition ceiling covering before painting the ceiling in the room. Painting will make ceiling defects, bumps, cracks, chips of old paint or chalk more noticeable. Even the slightest peeling of plaster and swelling threaten to fall to the floor after applying a heavy layer of fresh paint on top, and this will significantly complicate and prolong the repair work.
Experienced craftsmen use the light method to preliminarily diagnose the state of ceiling plaster.
To do this, direct the light beam of an ordinary table lamp or spotlight along the ceiling and notice all the blackouts that have formed, so that they can then be eliminated. You can thoroughly level the ceiling with a wide spatula or a hard grater. This is a really important moment in the process of construction and repair work, and especially in the task correct painting do-it-yourself ceiling to keep its impeccable appearance for a long time.
ceiling painting technology
Do-it-yourself whitewashing of the ceiling and skirting boards
The next question concerns the ceiling painting technology itself. You should seriously think about which construction tool to choose for painting and what paint to paint the ceiling with.
As a construction tool, which is better to paint the ceiling, you need to use a rectangular brush and a seamless polyacrylic roller with a pile thickness of 11 mm.
With a brush, carefully outline the perimeter of the ceiling to a line width of at least 5 cm and crumble the corners. To paint the ceiling without streaks, apply at least two coats of paint. The first layer is applied very carefully with a roller over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling, drawing solid strips from wall to wall in one direction.
Each next strip starts from the middle of the previous one, but do not allow excessive influx of paint. At the same time, the resulting sagging should be rubbed with a roller very carefully, because.
paint-soaked plaster becomes loose and may even lag behind the ceiling. The secrets of craftsmanship and a description of the work process of how to paint the ceiling with a roller are offered on our website. For a better perception, there is also a photo of painting the ceiling, which will help to cope with this task perfectly.
After processing the entire ceiling, you should take a break of at least 4 hours for the paint to dry completely. And only after that, proceed to applying a second layer. This is an excellent way to achieve a glossy finish when painting the ceiling with water-based paint or any other type of paint.
The process of painting the ceiling with your own hands involves a lot of all sorts of questions. It is for non-professional repairmen on our website that a special video has been prepared on how to paint the ceiling, which will help to cope with such a difficult task.
In addition to technological aspects, special attention is paid here design solutions. For example, what color to paint the ceiling in order to present your own style and achieve perfect harmony in the room. These are the moments that will allow you to live brightly and comfortably!
DIY ceiling painting video
How to paint the ceiling
Video scheme for leveling and painting the ceiling:
How to level and paint the ceiling with your own hands.
It would seem that a simple matter is to paint the ceiling
It's been a few months now that I've been renovating.
Alone without any help, and without any special training. Before that, I did a little repair work, not professionally, mostly finishing works. Before I started painting the ceiling, I did not read a single line on the Internet on this topic.
Apparently in vain. Some things I could do better. It would seem that such a simple matter - to paint the ceiling.
In truth, I was hoping to complete this process in a few hours. As a result, everything about everything took several days (about 24 hours in total), because I did not know the most elementary things and reached everything myself. Knowing the simple points, I could do it much faster.
Because Since my ceiling required quite serious repairs, I did not start right away with painting. In fact, the painting process itself is just the easiest thing in painting the ceiling :).
In my case, the scope of work, from beginning to end, amounted to: cutting the strobe (for wiring), laying and fixing the cable, sealing the strobe, leveling the ceiling, priming, painting and tinting. Each of these types of work brought me many “pleasant” surprises. In our case, we will assume that you have hidden wiring and you do not need to cut strobes and lay cables, this is a separate topic for a “conversation”.
Tools you will need
Let's start with the tools.
So, we need a roller. I painted with a long pile roller. The seller recommended it to me (I think not in vain), later I found confirmation of this.
Foam and velor rollers are not suitable. We also need a paint tray and a brush. It doesn't matter which brush, the main thing is more :).
Let me dwell on the paint in a little more detail.
I used water-based paint, you can, of course, oil paint, but then it will be difficult to tear it off the ceiling in the future. I would also NOT recommend using glossy paint, it perfectly conveys any irregularities in the ceiling and looks somehow too glamorous. You will also need a rag and, oddly enough, construction glasses :).
Guess what for? That's all. We turn to the actual painting process, or rather the preparation for painting.
Ceiling leveling
Now even little child It is known that in order to paint the ceiling, it must first be leveled.
Most often, the problem of an uneven ceiling occurs at the joints of ceiling slabs. They either stick out or vice versa have gaps. For example, my ceiling joints protruded.
I solved it with a grinder. I walked along the joints, removed a layer of paint, concrete and old putty, the grinder removes all this perfectly. When processing joints, the main thing is not to get carried away and not remove too much.
If gaps appear in the plates, they can be eliminated with putty.
The difference in height in the slabs can also be leveled with putty. It allows leveling with a layer up to 1 cm, for a ceiling this is quite enough. Important point! When leveling the ceiling, do not use oil putty, it is expensive and cracks on large surfaces, proven by bitter experience.
It is good to use oil putty to eliminate small gaps and depressions, no more than 1 cm wide. For example, I puttyed the strobes well with it. If desired, you can putty her the same joints in the slabs.
Prime the ceiling, it's important!
Before leveling the ceiling, prime it and remove the top coat of paint.
I screwed up on this. In places where alignment is not needed, old paint peeled off and went in lumps mixed with a new one, I literally had to pick out the old layers of paint with my fingers. The solution in this case could be this.
We take a spatula or sandpaper and scrape off the old layer of paint, quickly and efficiently. IN last resort, when painting, just take more paint so that the roller does not stick to the surface. If your ceiling is painted with oil paint, I would recommend walking on the surface with sandpaper, IMHO it is more effective and the paint will lie better.
We smoothly move on to the painting process itself.
When the surface is leveled and primed, you can start painting. There are no tricks here. Most importantly, make sure that the primer and putty are completely dry.
According to the instructions, the primer should dry for 1 hour, and the putty for 12 hours (time varies depending on the manufacturer). I waited a day in both cases, it's a lot. In your case, it all depends on your patience.
One more moment. You can not apply a primer on top of the putty, the paint will lie perfectly. Especially if it is white paint, it will match the putty.
Some points and tricks worth paying attention to
- You can use a table as a stepladder, the main thing is that it is stable. The painting process can be easily carried away and played in the box. If the table wobbles, put some paper on it.
- Wear construction goggles. Believe me, even water-based paint brings a very unpleasant sensation on the surface of the eye. There was an experience, it is checked up.
- Paint the ceiling first. If you paint or lay the floor first, paint splatters will leave unpleasant memories on the floor surface. Ideally, the order of finishing the room should be as follows: ceiling, walls, floor, everything else.
- Stir the paint in the jar without opening the jar. Just need to push harder. If you are a woman, ask a nearby or standing man to do this for you. Or, without lifting the can, roll it across the floor.
- Use a brush to tint irregularities, as well as those places where the roller “does not reach”.
- While touching up, arm yourself with a rag to immediately wash off the paint if it unexpectedly drips onto the floor or walls.
- Paint the ceiling in two layers, so you will hide spots and bumps. The third time you can paint, only the most problematic areas. Do not dilute the paint - this is a "divorce".
- After painting, do not forget to dip the roller and brushes in water so that they do not harden. For example, after the second painting, I lost the roller.
- Before leveling and painting, remove all lighting fixtures, insulate the wires, or better, turn off the electricity altogether.
- Clothing should be old, which is not a pity, preferably with long sleeve and collar.
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Everyone faces the problem of painting metal. In most cases, regular paint It wears off very quickly and does not give the desired effect. When applied, the coating spreads, ugly stripes appear that cannot be eliminated in any way. In general, when applying ordinary paint to metal, it very often peels off the surface of the coating in small pieces. And do not forget about reusability, a one-time coating for ordinary paint is definitely not suitable. What to do? How to save material and bring the appearance of a metal product into proper condition?
Saving money and time when painting, perhaps?
Many are interested in the question of whether it is possible to save paint, and, accordingly, money, and is it possible to paint a metal product as quickly as possible? All these questions have their own logical answers, which we will try to answer. The fact is that ordinary paint cannot lie well on the surface of the metal, it will certainly roll down, leave stains. Such paint is quite liquid and sticky, and the period of its drying is quite long.
If you need to paint a metal product and at the same time you want to save a lot - pay attention to powder painting, which will allow you to paint the surface of the product as well as possible. The paint is made in the form of a powder, it does not leave streaks, due to drying under high temperatures does not leave streaks and does not spread. Powders lie flat on the surface, creating an attractive appearance. Moreover, powder coating makes it possible to save as much as possible on consumables. If you do not have sufficient experience, you should not try to conduct it, you should contact specialists. Powder coating must meet all standard qualities, in addition, special conditions are needed for its implementation.
Powder coating process necessary tools
If you decide to carry out powder coating at home, pay attention to the conditions that you need to create for it. The first thing to remember is that powder coating requires a special chamber. It is impossible to carry out painting in an open area, since in the future the remains that will fall on the walls of the chamber cannot be collected for distant use.
Also, do not forget that after powder coating, it is important to install the object that has been painted in a hot oven. It is here that the product will undergo thorough drying. If you leave metal objects in the sun or in a ventilated room, then drying will be poor quality and in the future all the paint will peel off in small pieces.
Experienced craftsmen who carry out powder coating at home or work in factories are advised to contact specialized companies. It is almost impossible to buy all the necessary devices for powder coating. Everyone understands that the cost of such tools is high, and for painting 1-2 items, the purchase will not pay for itself. If you still decide to purchase for home
use all the necessary tools for powder coating, then pay attention to ensuring high-quality drying and coating in a special chamber.
Coloring Tips
Even an inexperienced painter can easily stretch an even panel along the wall if he uses a brush with a transverse metal rod and a ruler with a beveled edge for this.Two pieces of adhesive tape (duct tape, for example) will help to apply an even panel on the painted surface of the wall. By sticking them in parallel, at the right distance from each other, you get an excellent stencil.
A small rectangle made of cardboard, tin or other dense material, applied to the glass when painting window frames, will protect the glass from accidental strokes and allow you to accurately paint the frame.
When painting the baseboard, great skill and care is required to keep the floor from dripping paint. Your good assistant in this matter will be an ordinary scoop, which must be substituted between the plinth and the floor. At the same time, excess paint flowing onto the scoop can again be used to paint the baseboard.
If you need to paint a hollow cylinder or pipe, it is best to hang this part or put a stick into the cavity, which then put the ends on two supports.
Painting hard-to-reach places - cornices, balconies, etc. - will be facilitated by a tube bent at an angle into which a brush is inserted.
A pipe lying on the ground or passing in a corner is difficult to paint with a brush. For such a case, we advise you to sew a mitten made of zigeyka or faux fur, put the mitten on your hands with the fur outside, dip it in paint and, moving along the pipe, easily paint over it from all sides.
At painting works ah, it often becomes necessary to attach a can of paint to a stepladder or stand. To do this, drill a blind hole, insert a pin into it and attach a can of paint to the pin with a wide rubber or insulating tape.
Leaning the ladder against the wall of the room, you should anticipate that it can scratch the paint or wallpaper. To prevent this from happening, put on her at least old mittens. And to insure the ladder from falling on a slippery floor, put its ends in rubber galoshes. In this case, the ladder leaves no marks on the floor.
During painting work, it is often necessary to remove excess paint from the brush. A piece of wire, bent at both ends and tightly put on the edges of a bucket of paint, can be both a brush stand and a brush cleaner.
Take care of the brush. Do not put the brush next to the can, but keep it always lowered into the paint. To do this, stock up on a metal bar and drill several holes in the brush handle. As the level of paint in the can decreases, move the bar to another hole.
It is known that a paint brush can serve for a long time, if each time, after finishing work, it is thoroughly washed in a solvent and warm water with soap or washing powder. And if after that it is also properly combed with a rare comb, the brush will become like new.
To prevent a paint brush stained with oil paint from drying out, put it in a glass jar with solvent, put a plastic bag over the neck of the jar and tighten it with twine or pharmaceutical rubber.
A piece of an old bicycle tube, intercepted by a rubber ring, perfectly serves as a temporary storage for paint brushes.
To wash the paint brush from the paint, it is convenient to use a small plastic bag. Dip a brush into it, and fill it with solvent. Secure the top of the bag to the brush handle with the rubber ring. Thus, it will be possible to preserve the solvent for a long time.
It is not so easy to clean the brush from the varnish with which the floor was covered. Organic solvents are needed, and they are rarely available. We advise you to place the brush in water for a day after working with varnish. The varnish, although it hardens, will be loose and easily removed from the brush.
Before throwing away a brush with hopelessly dried paint on it, try boiling it in water with washing powder for several hours. After that, separate the bristles with an awl, comb with a wire brush and rinse.
By combining a spatula and a brush, you will immediately feel the advantage of such a versatile tool as soon as you start painting the surface, on which after the putty there are still traces of irregularities.
Did you know that Easter eggs Can you color with regular rice? This method has already gained popularity among many needlewomen. It is perfect for those who want to assemble a bright basket without spending a lot of time on it.
Easter preparation- an exciting process in which all family members can take part. So gather your family, stock up necessary materials and get down to business with a good mood. We'll tell you what to do and how.
How to paint eggs for Easter
Method number 1
You will need
- liquid paint
- napkins
Method number 2
You will need
- onion peel
- white eggs
- gauze
- food coloring
- 0.5 st. l. salt
- vegetable oil
- cotton pads
- Soak a raw egg in water and roll in onion skins. Put it in the center of the gauze and wrap tightly, fix the ends of the gauze with a thread.
- Dilute the egg dye according to package directions. Put the eggs in a saucepan, pour in the dye and water, add salt and put the saucepan on fire. Boil the water, turn off the fire and boil eggs 8 more minutes.
- Drain the boiling water and fill the pot cold water. When the eggs have cooled, remove the gauze with the husk from them. To make the eggs glossy, rub them with a cotton pad soaked in vegetable oil. Detailed instructions for coloring eggs you can see in our video.
We hope you enjoyed these easy and fun ways to paint Easter eggs. See how you can originally serve boiled eggs without shells to the festive table
