What and how to clean coins. A quick way to clean a coin from rust and oxidation

In this review, we will touch on the topic of cleaning coins with simple household chemicals. We must say right away that only the simplest coins can be cleaned with such chemistry. If you have rare coins in your hands, like two kopecks from 1925 or 1927, then use household chemicals to purge them is like signing their death warrant. And when it is carried out, it will be impossible to return to the previous state.

CILLIT was chosen for express cleaning. According to the manufacturer, it is designed to remove limescale and rust. We will check how the metals from which domestic coins are made react to it. And how well he can clean coins of varying degrees of "killedness". The Internet is full of rave reviews about how wonderfully it improves appearance plumbing. But what's good for plumbing isn't always good for coins.

As prototypes, we took seven samples of metals from which the following coins were minted:

1. Aluminum bronze - 1 kopeck 1926 and 1 kopeck 1930

2. Nickel silver of the USSR - two coins in denominations of 1 ruble 1964

3. Brass of the USSR - 3 kopecks 1985

4. Copper - half a penny 1927

5. Melchior - 20 kopecks 1932 and 15 kopecks 1956

6. Modern weather nickel silver - 1 ruble 1999

7. Brass of modern weather - two coins of 50 kopecks 1998

As we can see, the condition of the coins is from average scall to frankly irreparable. Just such samples should be used for experiments. First of all, the coins should be placed in a soapy solution to clean off the layer of compressed dust and dirt. In a soapy solution, it will get wet and detach itself from the surface of the coin. If we try to tear it off a dry coin, we will spoil it irreparably. Soap solution from laundry soap- a spectacle of low artistic value, so instead we will post a photo of the arsenal of chemicals we recruited to help.

After cleaning, place the coins in a bath with CILLIT chemical agent. While the tool destroys old dirt and patina, let's analyze the main mistakes that can occur during such cleaning.

1. If the coin has a natural luster, this cleaning is not suitable for it. Aggressive environment will destroy it forever! And no amount of rubbing will bring back that shine. Experienced collectors instantly distinguish natural shine from chemical polishing. Therefore keep coins with a natural sheen away from CILLIT and use gentle cleaning methods to clean them.

2. It is necessary to constantly monitor the appearance of coins in solution. Chemical processes bring copper to the surface of the coins in which it is included. Therefore, coins that are golden in color become scarlet. Even copper-nickel can become scarlet with a long stay in solution. This is especially noticeable on coins with caverns, the irregularities of which are most susceptible to chemical reaction. The illustration shows how the coins that have been in a chemical environment are different in color from ordinary ones. No, these are not rare copper probes! This is the most common little thing that chemistry has worked on. We think that now, when you see a newcomer who brought another "probe" to the forum, you will immediately understand why a line of buyers is not lining up for him. The scarlet layer is cleared over time. This is noticeable in one of the kopeck pieces, the edging of which has already returned to its usual color.

3. We clean different metals separately. Above is an ordinary five-kopeck coin that fell into the solution along with brass. The withdrawn copper settled on its surface with dark scarlet stains. It will not be so easy to clean a light coin from a foreign layer. And there is a chance that the copy will be ruined. Therefore, here, as in washing: "We wash colored linen separately from white!"

The coins that have been in the solution are thoroughly washed from chemistry and cleaned with powder from sediment. After that, the prototypes were aged in a solution of the Pemolux cream for better surface cleaning. Recall that inexpensive coins of ordinary circulation were taken for the experiment, so you should not suffer that "Pemoksol" will cause irreparable damage to their surface. Let's see what results the purge gave us.

The most pleasant thing is with the brass of the USSR in the form of a three-kopeck coin. CILLIT noticeably improved her appearance. Of course, there will be those who will ask: "Why are we fiddling with a coin that you find in any pile? Isn't CILLIT more expensive to clean it?!" Probably, the attitude towards this triplet will change somewhat when you find out that this is a representative of a rare variety, where the edge is made with notches of reduced width.

Verdict: CILLIT is suitable for USSR brass. But here the main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise we will have a "Study in Scarlet" before us because of the copper that has come to the surface.

Annual rubles of the USSR after cleaning also acquired a much more pleasant appearance. Matteness and yellowish stains disappeared. There was a kind of brilliance. Of course, hidden defects also surfaced. But we initially took coins for experiments that were far from collectible condition. Attention! A rusty spot on a coin from the set should not be removed with CILLIT! Of course, it will cope with a speck, but the natural shine of improved quality minting will disappear. "You just washed away half the value of the coin!" - experienced collectors will say sadly.

But the state of copper after CILLIT causes continuous disappointment. Chemistry obediently removed the patina. It was then that we found out how many defects the coin field of our half-kopeck has. Imagine your horror if you dipped copper 2 kopecks of 1925 into chemistry! Yes, and the color has changed not for the better. CILLIT for copper is best not to use. Of course, cleaning is not the last stage for this coin. If you bring a patina, then it will become prettier. True, the surface of the coin field cannot be improved even with an artificial patina.

Melchior remained in a deplorable state. True, 15 kopecks gave us a big surprise: the presence of a marriage. A strip is pressed into the surface of the coin, which is between the blank and the stamp. We would never have known about this secret if we hadn’t taken on cleaning the coins. So even the most killed copy is sometimes able to please something. The 20 looks a little better, but there is no desire to put it in the album. True, here CILLIT has nothing to do with it.

We will analyze the features on the modern weather forecast. We chose fifty dollars of varying degrees of slaughter. The one that retained the coin field suffers from scarlet tones to a lesser extent than its counterpart, whose field is no longer smooth, but millions of microscopic hills and depressions. uneven surface and prevents cleaning. Here, CILLIT is no longer strong enough to restore the coin to its original form. However, in the first fifty dollars, the scarlet tones will gradually be erased if it is released into circulation again.

The same story with the ruble of 1999. The usual dark ruble CILLIT would have cleared without problems (rubles of 1964 fully confirm this). But we did not look for easy ways. Having cleaned off a layer of dirt, CILLIT presented us with a crumpled surface, the potholes in which the protruding copper turned into scarlet points. CILLIT is quite suitable for cleaning the turnover, but such cleaning will not save the dead coins. For the album, we need to look for another ruble.

Aluminum bronze is quite resistant to CILLIT attack. After cleaning, the pennies took on a more cheerful look. Rusty dots are gone. It should be noted here that representatives of the lower denominations of the early USSR are also prone to copper coming to the surface, especially if you see black dots or islands of beautiful-looking greenery. Under them, most likely, caverns are hidden, which, against the background of a golden coin field, will remain dark or, conversely, acquire sharp crimson tones.

Summing up, let's say that CILLIT is a tool that is quite suitable for express cleaning of inexpensive domestic coins from plaque and dirt. And, finally, once again admire the obverse of the saved three kopecks in 1985 with a frequent edge before and after our cleaning. It would not be good to leave a rarely seen coin in a state where the lesion would continue to torment its surface. Now it is far from ideal, but no less far from the terrible state in which it fell into our hands.

Are you an avid collector? Do you have a lot of old exhibits, but over time they have changed their appearance? In this article, we will tell you how to clean coins at home to a shine!

This article is intended for persons over 18 years of age.

Are you over 18 already?

Cleaning coins is a laborious and painstaking process. To clean the exhibit, you must follow a number of instructions that are mentioned in this material. Consider how to clean a copper coin at home. This will help if you need to clean up. copper coins from oxide, from blackness, from green plaque.

Analyze the degree of pollution and decide how you can help your exhibit. If you decide to clean coins, then you cannot do without soap and ammonia. Chemicals must be discarded: this way you can damage the exhibit.

Method 1: soap and water

We take soap (preferably laundry), rub it on a grater. Add 1 liter of water. Leave the coins in the solution for 10-15 minutes. The dirt will get wet and can be easily removed with a sponge.

Method 2: Vinegar

Put on gloves, take a soft sponge and put some vinegar on it. Wipe the coin with light massage movements. After that, rinse the coin under warm water to remove the remnants of the product. An alternative to vinegar can be ammonia.

Method 3: lemon

Take a fresh lemon, cut it into 2 halves. Insert a coin directly into the pulp of the fruit and leave for 15 minutes. After the time has elapsed, take it out and gently clean it with a brush. Don't forget to rinse with water at the end.

How to clean a coin from rust?

Each collector has his own secrets for cleaning coins from rust and other contaminants. Each metal has a unique chemical composition, so you need to know what can and cannot be used to restore these values.

To clean a coin from rust, you can use:

• vinegar;
• citric acid/juice;
• soda;
• coca-cola;
• salt;
• laundry soap.

All these tools are used by analogy with the above methods.

To date, there is no single method of cleaning silver coins at home, because here everything directly depends on their sample and degree of oxidation. This is due to the fact that they have a different chemical composition, and, accordingly, different ways cleaning.

Old specimens of a high standard are cleaned of blackness within an hour with a solution of ammonia (90% water). If there is none, then you can replace it with a soda solution (300 g per 1 liter of water), in which they should be soaked for about 2-3 hours. If desired, you can boil the solution a little for a better effect. This should save the coin from blackness, which is true for old copies.

To clean a coin, use a mixture of toothpaste, baking soda, and ammonia. This method is good because it does not contain abrasive particles that can harm silver. This mass should be applied to the contaminated surface and thoroughly cleaned with a brush.

For exhibits made of low-grade silver, the Trilon B method (trilon B is a special type of salt) is suitable. It is necessary to dissolve 1 tbsp. a spoonful of salt in a glass hot water, then lower the coins there and wait for the result. However, in order not to harm the metal, all actions should be carried out in well-ventilated rooms. Further, this process must be continued by processing special tool for cleaning silver of a certain sample.

How to clean a coin from blackness?

Time is one of the few causes of blackness. In this article, we will tell you how to clean the exhibits from dirt. Over time, the top layer of copper oxidizes as a result of contact with air, which causes a special coating on the surface - patina. It looks like a black coating, which can be difficult to get rid of even for an experienced restorer.

However, there are a few tricks that can help get rid of this problem. Alternatively, the coin can be wiped with a cotton pad dipped in ammonia, followed by rinsing in warm soapy water. The main component of this alcohol is ammonia, which, due to its properties, reacts well with copper oxide compounds.

There is another way to clean a copper surface - a mixture of oxalic acid, turpentine, ethyl alcohol and water. This mixture can both clean dirt, degrease and remove metal oxide.

There are times when you do not know how to clean coins from oxidation. After all, oxidized coins lose their original, marketable appearance. The method of cleaning depends largely on the type of alloy itself, so you should carefully determine what type of corrosion hit the metal.

There are many types of corrosion, the most common of which are which are:

• green spots - oxidized copper surface. Formed as a result of prolonged exposure to a humid and damp environment;
• a reddish coating, most often found on coins that were in a poorly ventilated space;
• the black color of the metal is a patina, indicating a great age of the metal.

There are several ways to get rid of the green coating. One of the safest is cleaning with a diluted vinegar solution. To prepare it, you need to take two tablespoons of food vinegar per liter pure water(ideally distilled). After that, you should place the coins in this liquid so that they do not come into contact with other surfaces and have the smallest area of ​​​​contact with the walls of the container in which they are placed. This is to ensure that the entire surface of the coin is evenly exposed to the acid.

Many cases are known where coins in large quantities were placed in a small container, which led to uneven etching and the formation of spots from uncleaned areas.

It is also necessary to clean the layers formed as a result of the action of the acetic mixture in time. This must be done several times a day, taking the coin out. You need to clean it with a toothbrush. But it should be remembered that excessive efforts can seriously damage the coin and form red spots that are practically not removed without mechanical intervention.

This method will help to clean both oxidation and various dirt stains. But we should not forget that a full recovery should not be expected, since the structure of the metal undergoes irreversible changes over time.

How to clean a bimetallic coin?

A self-respecting numismatist knows that each type of alloy requires a different approach to cleaning. The most common problem is the condition of the metals, when one part of the coin needs cleaning with anti-corrosion solutions, and the second is in good condition. And if ordinary cleaning with acid solutions is applied to such cases, then there is a chance to harm the second metal, due to which defects such as tarnishing, change chemical composition the top layer of the alloy, changing the main color.

That is why cleaning bimetallic coins at home may not give the desired results, but will definitely lead to their surface best view. To carry out such procedures, you will need a soda solution (2 tablespoons per glass of hot boiled water). The coin must be placed in it for 15-20 minutes. Do not forget about the above remark regarding its placement in the tank. After pulling out, it can be cleaned with a white toothpaste without dyes. If this is not available, you can use tooth powder. But it should be noted that its abrasive particles can leave micro-scratches, so this procedure should be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the surface and not cause microcracks.

If the above method did not give a sufficient effect, you can try chemical dissolution agents. limescale and corrosion. To do this, apply a small amount of gel to the surface of the coin and wipe it thoroughly with a soft cloth. If the stains do not rub off, you can try to do the same steps, but with a toothbrush.

After the correct implementation of these procedures, the metal should acquire its characteristic color and luster.

Avid numismatists also have specimens made of zinc. Cleaning such coins is a very laborious process. This is due to the fact that zinc actively reacts with strong acids, but its salts have poor reactivity to weak acid solutions. That is why the most the best option cleaning such valuables will be the dissolution of the patina layer in a container with 1% hydrochloric acid solution.

Before starting metal etching, it should be remembered that a coin in such a liquid cannot be left unattended, since it is required to check its condition every 5 seconds. This is necessary in order to see the moment when the patina has already come off, and the acid has taken over the base metal.

Cleaning zinc specimens at home will be much more effective if the container is wide enough. This is necessary in order to keep the coin in acid and at the same time clean it with a toothbrush. Hydrochloric acid is different in that:

• has different activity with metals;
• does not harm human skin;
• has a good reaction with zinc and iron.

After cleaning, the coin should be washed from acid residues with strong water pressure. This is due to the fact that if you just throw it into water, the acid will remain on the surface of the zinc for some time. This can lead to additional etching of the alloy, which is highly undesirable for such products.

Complete cleaning of zinc coins at home is a rather laborious task, so you should not expect a great effect. However, in any case, they will acquire a more attractive appearance and add to their value.

Many collections have good coins (without mechanical damage), but with dirt or dark spots. The problem can be solved different ways to eliminate external defects. We will talk about them in this article.

Types of coin cleaning

Depending on the degree of contamination, the characteristics of the material and other factors, it is necessary to determine the appropriate method. Among the main types of coin cleaning are the following:

• chemical,
• mechanical,

• cooking,
• electrolysis.

The chemical type of cleaning involves the use of ammonia, acids, soda, soap, detergents and washing powder. In the presence of concentrated hydrochloric acid, you can make a special bath with a solution and immerse coins there. After the procedure, it is better to rinse the coins with alkali to stop the reaction.

Cleaning warm soapy water suitable for most metals. You can fix and enhance the effect obtained with any dishwashing detergent, ordinary laundry soap will also give a good result. Coins with minor contamination should be soaked in the resulting solution for 2-3 hours. Coins with abundant coating can be kept in the prepared liquid for about a day.

How to clean a coin with baking soda

Soda cleaning is an alkaline method of removing dirt and is suitable for low-grade copper and silver specimens. The process is carried out easily, without creating special conditions. First, a slurry is formed from a spoonful of soda and a small amount of water, then the mixture is applied to the coin. Removal of dirt is carried out with an ordinary soft brush. Soda can also be used after acid cleaning to extinguish the reaction.

How to clean a coin with vinegar

Cleaning with vinegar or citric acid suitable for hard metals. A teaspoon of soda is added to the vinegar solution, the liquids are mixed. Coins are immersed in the resulting bath and remain there until the stains disappear, and then treated with soap, warm water and a soft brush. If the contamination is not washed off, the procedure is repeated.

It is undesirable to use this method for coins made of gold, silver or copper.

Cleaning coins by electrolysis

Electrolysis- the most dangerous, but also the most fast method elimination of defects. Cleaning is carried out by applying current to a slightly salty solution of water with a coin placed there. We will talk about this method in more detail at the end of the article.

ammonia as a coin cleaner

Cleaning with ammonia is suitable for products made of silver, pure copper or alloys containing it. The coin is immersed in ammonia for the time necessary to achieve the effect, then removed and washed. The room in which such cleaning is carried out must be well ventilated.

mechanical cleaning

For mechanical cleaning, various objects and tools are used (drills, brushes, needles, scalpels, pieces of cloth, etc.). This method is quite effective and removes any contamination, but there is a risk of damage to the surface of the products.

Digestion of coins

When cooking, the coin is processed in a boiling liquid, you can additionally use oil (vaseline or olive).

Several coins are placed in a pot with hot oil for 10 minutes(it is more convenient to clean in a special lattice box on a chain). After cooking, wash the products with a brush and soap and remove the remaining oil by thoroughly boiling the coins in distilled water.

After cooking, the specimens acquire radiance and brilliance, but a noble patina comes off them, which gives the products additional value. It is better not to expose rare coins to such an impact.

Rules for cleaning gold, silver and copper coins

Choice best way made taking into account the specific properties of the metal. Cleaning, carried out in the absence of the necessary knowledge and experience, will not give the coin its original appearance, but will significantly harm it. For example, mechanical action using asidol or jewelry paste leaves scratches and helps to erase small details of drawings.

Cleaning of gold coins

Gold coins do not need aggressive cleaning. If the products appear dirty, it will be enough to wash them with warm soapy water, rinse with water and dry. Do not rub gold coins intensively, because even ordinary fabric leaves on noble metal small scratches.

Silver coin cleaning

Choosing the right cleaning method for silver items depends on from the sample and the degree of oxidation of the metal. High-quality silver coins can be cleaned by placing them in a solution of ammonia (10% ammonia and 90% water) for an hour or in a soda solution (30 g of soda per 100 ml of water) for several hours. The process will be accelerated if the liquid is brought to a boil several times, and the oxidized areas are treated with a soft brush.

High-grade coins with slight traces of oxidation are best cleaned with a mixture of toothpaste, ammonia and baking soda. The resulting mass should not contain abrasive particles. The coin must be covered with the mixture and rubbed with fingers or a brush.

Suitable for cleaning low-grade silver coins Trilon B solution. When the green layer comes off the surface of the coin, you can continue the process using a special mixture for silver of a certain sample.

Cleaning copper coins

Copper products are subject to the formation of a layer of patina on the surface. If there are no signs of corrosion on the coin, and the film is uniform, then it is better not to take risks and not expose the copy to cleaning. Patina protects metal from corrosion and gives the coin a noble look. To eliminate traces of touch and grease, the product can be washed in warm water.

Coins that have undergone corrosion are best cleaned using aggressive reagents (acetic and citric acids, Trilon B). They will gradually separate the damaged metal layer, without affecting the solid base. To process slightly oxidized coins, soaking in solution for several hours will suffice, while heavily oxidized coins can be left for a day or more.

Bronze coin cleaning

Bronze products are cleaned according to the same principle as copper ones. But keep in mind that ammonia changes bronze color. The metal may turn brown or even black. The shine of a bronze coin can be easily restored by applying toothpaste to its surface and washing it in warm water. Dry the products after cleaning by wrapping them in two layers of a soft cloth and a paper towel.

Sulfuric and nitric acids should not be used to clean copper or silver coins, as they destroy the fine details of the design.

Coin cleaners and tools

In addition to the above methods, there are others. Tools that are suitable for cleaning:

• toothbrushes of varying degrees of softness;
• wooden toothpicks;
• brush with natural bristles;
• plastic utensils, tweezers;
• reagents (soap, distilled water, soda, linseed and vaseline oil).

It is not recommended to clean rare and valuable coins on your own - professionals will do a better job. The following cleaning methods are suitable for dug metal. The main goal is to preserve the patina when cleaning, removing all unnecessary oxides. Before processing, the coins are washed with soap.

The best safe way to clean coins

The simplest and safest method is using laundry soap. In a hermetically sealed plastic container boiling water is poured and grated 72% laundry soap is poured.

When the solution thickens, coins are placed in it. After a day or two, the coins are removed and rubbed with a toothbrush with trimmed bristles. The procedure is repeated until the desired result is achieved. Some oxides can be carefully removed with a wooden toothpick.

The disadvantage of this method is that it takes a lot of time, but its undoubted advantage is that the extra layers are removed gently and gently.

Exposure using caustic soda is a very quick method, but suitable not for all coins. Both products with a relatively even field and with an uneven thin film are cleaned well.

In the manufacture of caustic soda solution, safety precautions must be observed. Dissolve granules (1 sachet per 500 ml) only in distilled cold water, take a coin with tweezers and be sure to work with gloves.

The product is immersed in a solution for 10 minutes. Then washed with water. The softened oxides can then be easily removed with a brush.

If during the cleaning process the oxides on the product become blue or green, the process must be interrupted immediately.

Cleaning copper coins

Careless cleaning of a copper coin can cause chips and pits to appear on its surface. Depending on the type of corrosion, the appropriate method of exposure is selected. Reddish plaque is removed with a five percent solution of ammonia or ammonium carbonate. The coin must be held in ammonia solution no more than 1-2 minutes. Green plaque can be removed with a solution of citric or acetic acid. A yellowish coating is dissolved with a 10% solution of acetic acid.

After cleaning the coin by any of the above methods, it must be boil in distilled water. After several boilings, you can check whether the coin is completely cleansed by dropping a 1.7% solution of silver azonic acid into the water. If after that the water remains clear, then the cleaning process must be completed.

After cleaning, the product must be thoroughly dried. You can place a copy in a special drying cabinet for two hours or dry it in acetone, and then in alcohol (no more than an hour).

If the natural patina on the coin could not be preserved, can be artificial to give the product an attractive appearance. 50 g of copper sulfate and 5 g of potassium permanganate are added per liter of distilled water. The resulting solution is heated to 80-90 degrees. Coins are placed in the heated liquid. Next, turn the coins over from time to time and wait for the desired color to appear. After the procedure, the coins must be dried and covered with a mixture of alcohol and benzene 1: 1 to protect against corrosion. You can also read about artificial patina in the article ""

Electrochemical cleaning

Electrolysis- fast and effective method remove dirt, but its use is associated with some of the dangers inherent in the operation of any electrical appliance. The device must be used in a well-ventilated and well-lit area. Before carrying out the process, be sure to wear protective gloves and glasses.

When using electrolysis, the risk of damaging a coin increases significantly (by several times compared to other methods). Assembly requires a power supply with voltage 6-12 volts. The plugs are cut off and the wires are divided into two parts. The ends of the wire are stripped of insulation. Copper veins need to be twisted, soldered or attached to metal clips. Next, a shallow plastic container is taken and filled with saline or soda solution (1 tbsp per 0.5 l).

Turn on the power supply. The clamps hold on to isolated places at a distance from each other (if they touch, a short circuit will disable the power supply). The clamps must be immersed in a container with a solution. One of them will hiss and release gas - this is a "+".

It needs to be connected to a coin, and the second clip, (respectively "-") is connected to a small metal object (for example, to a spoon or a key).

The second option is reverse connection. The positive clip connects to a metal object, and the negative clip connects to a coin. The reverse connection gently cleans the coin and does not harm its metal core.

Depending on the amount of plaque and the degree of contamination, the cleaning process takes from several minutes (if a “+” is connected to the coin) and 40 minutes to 4 hours(if "-" is connected).

After cleaning, turn off the device from the mains, remove the coin from the solution and clean it with a brush with a small amount of liquid soap. To eliminate special, complex contaminants, the procedure will have to be repeated. The solution will become dirty after a while and will need to be replaced in order to re-electrolyze.

Summing up on the topic of cleaning

A method of cleaning coins that would allow them to return to them exactly original view, does not exist, but with due diligence, you can significantly improve the condition of the coins. The safest option is to use soapy water.

More severe soiling may require coins to be soaked in solution for extended periods of time. Sometimes you have to wait several weeks for the result.

For prolonged soaking solution needs to be changed. to a new one, and periodically remove the coin itself and clean off the softened layers of dirt from it. For gold coins, this cleaning method is ideal.

After the procedure, the product is dried, wrapped in a soft cloth. Mechanical cleaning is also considered a relatively safe method, but it is absolutely not suitable for soft metals that are easily scratched.

the main task- do not completely ruin the coin and do not deprive it of its noble patina. Some specimens are better not to be cleaned at all, but simply washed. It is recommended that before starting work, practice at the most common coins. Be sure to follow the safety regulations (chemical cleaning methods can be hazardous to health).

With the era of the development of the capabilities of metal detectors, treasure hunting is experiencing another heyday. On the one hand, this led to the extraction of a fairly large number of coins that were previously considered exceptional rarities. Now even 2 kopecks of 1925 or 1927 are put up for auction often enough to purchase them for the collection if funds are available. On the other hand, there are still few decently preserved copies, because almost a century of being in the ground leaves indelible marks on the coin. How to turn a black metal circle with a cherished date into something resembling a coin that will be fought for at auctions? This question brings the new owner of the rarity to the cleaning process. The same processes have to be dealt with by those who acquired a collection that was stored inappropriately.

Stage 0 - Preview

Let's say it very loud and clear right away: any cleaning will not turn her object into a "UNC" state coin. Even if there are no cavities and nicks on the coin, and the coin field begins to sparkle, the experienced eye of a collector or trader will instantly distinguish it from the native brilliance inherent in specimens that have just left the mint. The price of a polished coin is much lower than the value of its sister, found in the "Uncirculated" category ("Without Circulation"). That is why there are so many comments on the forums: "You just cleared half the value of the coin." A beautiful patina for old coins is much preferable to an unnatural sheen after hard cleaning.

If you have an expensive copy in your hands, you should not take on cleaning it without having sufficient experience. It is better to pay ten thousand to a specialist and get a coin that can start at a hundred thousand than to find a twisted piece of metal that even a beginner will not want to put in a collection. Having two coins minted from the same metal - a rare and an ordinary one - it is worth trying the cleaning method first on an ordinary coin and making sure that the cleaning did not kill the coin and did not cause significant harm to it.

At this stage, we take and put aside all the coins of the "PROOF" design and with a polished coin field. These coins are not subject to cleaning. Any impact is detrimental to them. Study the auction passages (you can use the database of our site) and you will see how the smallest defect significantly reduces the price and makes most sellers refuse to purchase a copy of less than perfect condition. If it seems to you that it is easy and simple to remove a small dark spot, then remember the parable of the monkey that was dragging peas and dropped the pea. Trying to pick it up, she dropped ten more. In an attempt to collect them, she scattered another hundred. In the same progression, defects will grow on a polished coin with the simplest cleaning. Yes, polished coins are cleaned by professionals, but that process is no longer closer to cleaning, but to restoration (which we will not touch on here).

If you still can't wait to deal with polished coins, please read the article on our site "How to launder money", dedicated to the gentle cleaning of silver in the "PROOF" category.

Step 1 - soap solution and rinse

To remove dried dirt, it is worth placing the coins to be cleaned in a soapy solution. This will soften hard foreign formations on the coin. After some time, they will either peel off by themselves, or it will be easy to remove them without damage to the coin field (which would not happen if we try to pick out a dried-up hard lump). The coins of the last century are mostly resistant to the aquatic environment, so being in a soapy solution will not harm them. Of course, you should not keep coins made of iron and other materials that quickly rust in water in water. If you want to check not in word, but in deed, pour a handful of modern dimes with a steel base into the water. Prolonged exposure to water will spoil them hopelessly. But a brass coin can be in the water element for a long time.

After being removed from the solution, the coin needs to be washed. Experts do not recommend using tap water. Due to the chloride compounds in its composition, after drying, you may find a light coating on some coins, which negatively affects the overall impression of the specimen. Therefore, get either distilled water or non-carbonated bottled water from the nearest store. Of course, if we gain experience in cleaning brass or nickel of the last years of the USSR, then we exclude unnecessary expenses, and tap water is quite suitable for them. Inexpensive coins can be cleaned in parallel with washing with a soft toothbrush with non-abrasive paste. This method removes softened dirt from hard-to-reach places.

Washing with distilled water and soap is suitable even for "PROOF" coins if you have dropped these valuable pieces in the dirt. Of course, here the toothbrush is categorically excluded. After washing, drying is necessary. Drops of water are removed with a soft cloth or napkin. Moreover, this is not rubbing, but blotting coins. That is, you only touch the surface, and do not crawl along it in all directions. After blotting, dry the coin near a heat source (for example, incandescent lamps). This does not mean that in order to save time, you should bring a coin into the region of the highest temperatures by placing it on the heater grate. From high temperatures a valuable coin can simply crack or melt.

Stage 2 - chemistry: from cheap to expensive

Instance before cleaning

Plans and dreams of the collector * * * * * Harsh reality at the end of the process

It’s worth gaining experience on the cheapest copies, which then it’s not a pity to throw it away. At this stage, many illusions are broken. It seems that after cleaning, the coin will simply change color from black or green to original and will begin to resemble specimens resting in museum showcases. The result, most often, is something else: a corroded coin field of a disgusting appearance and a relief crumpled beyond recognition. And all because the patina is not a raid from the outside, but a part of the coin itself. It smooths out imperfections and hides flaws. By removing it, you will expose all hidden defects. Sometimes dry cleaning tears off almost the entire relief, which has gone into a patina from time to time, and in front of us is no longer a coin, but a strange circle on which neither numbers nor inscriptions can be made out.

Decided to clean up? Be sure to determine what metal the coin was minted from. A tool ideal for one metal will irrevocably destroy others, if you do not take into account the composition of the ingredients included in it. The most difficult thing is to clean coins made of tin or lead. These are very soft metals. For them, both abrasive cleaning, which erases the relief, and most chemicals are contraindicated. But aluminum coins are easy to clean. The film that forms on them quickly replaces the original shine with an unsightly haze. But it is easily removed with a simple composition (experts recommend 50 grams of borax, 5 grams of ammonia per 1 liter of water). After such cleaning, aluminum is not washed, but dried immediately.

Aluminum bronze and brass are easy to clean with modern kitchen chemistry. However, it should be remembered that chemistry washes out copper, and the color of a golden brass coin becomes pink or scarlet (beginners, seeing such a copy, immediately drag it to numismatists under the guise of a rare copper probe). Therefore, by experiments on cheap coins, make up your chemical series according to the degree of impact on the coin. Initially, try to rectify the state of affairs with a weaker composition, and only then proceed to strong reagents.

Copper, after parting with the patina, acquires a sharp reddish tint. Therefore, when working with copper, one must either accept the coin as such, or proceed to the next stage of the collector's basic skills - self-patina, which returns the coin to its usual chocolate color.

Stage 3 - family silver

Cleaning darkened silver does not require any additional skills. But remember that "PROOF" silver should not be cleaned in the same way as tablespoons or teaspoons left over from previous generations. Otherwise, the coin will be sold not at the price of the catalog, but at the price of the metal on the exchange. Those who work with ancient coins, in which other metals are present in addition to pure silver, have to deal with the removal of oxides. If it is copper, then the coin may turn green. Here the recommendations of experts differ, based on their own experience. Someone uses a five percent composition of sulfuric acid, and someone uses a ten percent composition of formic acid, heating it to seventy degrees Celsius. Much worse if the coin has acquired a purple-gray hue. This is the so-called "horn silver". It should be disposed of only with full confidence that there is definitely a core of healthy metal under it. A ten percent ammonia solution will help us here. After softening the gray-violet layer, it is removed with a soft cloth.

Stage 4 - gold, platinum and palladium

If the material of the coin belongs to this trinity of chemically inert metals, then the task is both simple and complex. Chemistry won't help here. Of course, with due diligence, you can get a reagent that will dissolve them, but it's better to do without it. Soap solution and rinse in water without chlorine. This is quite enough. Some seek to polish the coin before selling it. But the unnatural shine, coupled with natural scratches, is more likely to scare off potential buyers than increase their number.

Stage 5 - Specialized Fluids

A number of reputable companies have long been taking care of collectors, offering them a wide range of cleaning products that can significantly improve the appearance of the coin. In addition, there are products of small enterprises on the domestic market, which also have a positive effect on the appearance. When purchasing this or that product, you should carefully familiarize yourself with which particular metal (or group of coins) it is intended for. Calculate economic effect from its application. After all, having bought an expensive imported product and spent it on bringing a couple of coins into a tolerable appearance, which are easy to buy for fifty at any auction, you will not receive anything but moral satisfaction. After trying a number of tools, you will also notice that cleaning them sometimes does not rid the coins of the resulting defects, but only masks them for the time being. As an example, we show a bimetallic ten.

Yes, after cleaning, dark stains no longer disturb the eye. potential buyer. However, a picky collector may point out that these divorces have not gone away. They are still present on the ring rim, however, in a bleached state. This is further evidence that the purge does not move coins into the "UNC" category, which is the price tag of the modern anniversary.

In the following articles, we will detail how to room conditions bring an inexpensive coin to a decent condition with the help of the simplest cleaning. You will also learn about mechanical cleaning, as well as why scrapers are required. In the meantime, we hope that this short review will give you an initial idea of ​​\u200b\u200bcleaning coins and protect you from inept actions with which you will spoil the rarity that you accidentally got.

According to statistics, many people of all ages are interested in numismatics, which makes them "hunt" for rare coins. Almost any metal oxidizes after some time, which affects the appearance. In this case, information on how to clean coins will be very useful.

Cleaning coins at home

There are a huge number of techniques used to remove various contaminants from coins. They are used by both collectors and people involved in the search for treasures. It is important to consider a number of tips on how to clean old coins at home:

1. The choice of cleaning method should be based on the alloy from which the contaminated specimen is made. The thing is that some funds can provoke reactions that ruin the coins. Do not use compositions with large abrasive particles, as they will leave scratches on the surface.
2. It is not recommended to clean coins with concentrated acids. This is especially true for specimens made of copper.
3. Please note that for some coins, the presence of patina is a decoration that gives a noble appearance and its removal will reduce the value.
4. Describing how to properly clean coins, it is worth pointing out that before carrying out the procedure, it is recommended to check the selected product on less valuable items made of similar material.

How to clean silver coins?

To clean precious coins, you can use baking soda and a solution of ammonia. If these methods fail, then formic acid can be used, which can remove dirt if heated to 70°C. This tool will help remove rust and other contaminants. When figuring out how to clean a silver coin, it is worth pointing out that there is a tool - a silvertauschbader, which is used by experts to clean silver items.

Copper coin cleaning

Copper products are considered the most capricious, so the choice of a suitable method should be approached carefully. The most popular options are based on the use of vinegar and soap. These methods are described below, and the cleaning of copper coins from greenery can be done as follows:

1. Vaseline oil. In this tool, it is necessary to boil the products until the pollution disappears. At the end of the procedure, rinse them in alcohol and wipe with a cloth.
2. Hydrogen peroxide. To make coins shiny, it is recommended to mix 30 ml of hydrogen peroxide, a small spoonful of ammonia and 200 ml of water. Soak the coins in the solution for 15 minutes. and wipe with a soft cloth.

How to clean bimetallic coins?

In the manufacture of coins, for example, jubilee coins, two different metals are used: steel or silver is used for the central part, and copper, gold or various alloys are used for edging. There is simple ways how to clean coins at home:

1. Detergent. Good results with minor contamination are given by the popular dishwashing detergent - "Fairy", it is necessary to stir 1 tbsp in 1 liter of water. spoon. Put the coins in the prepared solution for an hour, and then wipe with a flannel cloth.
2. Toothpaste. Squeeze a pea of ​​ordinary paste onto a soft-bristled brush and wipe the coin with it without pressing. Cleaning of bimetallic coins ends with rinsing in water. There are reviews that after a while the surface may fade, and to give the product a shine, put it on for 5 minutes. in a solution of formic acid 14% or alcohol. At the end of the procedure, polish the coin.
3. Paste GOI. This product contains fine abrasive particles that can remove dirt and oxides. It is better to use paste for inexpensive coins. You can clean with a brush, but it is better to use a mechanical engraver with a felt nozzle. The revolutions should be set to 10-15 thousand per minute.

How to clean cupronickel coins?

The alloy is very similar to noble metals, and it also blackens and oxidizes. You can use different ways to add shine, and for those who are interested in how to clean old coins, they offer the following methods:

1. Dish powder. To remove dirt, you must first moisten the coin in water, and then apply powder on it. It remains only to rub the surface with a sponge and leave everything for a while and rinse in water. Put on gloves before the procedure.
2. Ash. Continuing to explain how to clean old coins, it should be mentioned unusual way patina removal. It involves the use of cigarette ashes. First, dip the coin in water and apply ashes to it. Leave everything for 20 minutes, and then, rub the gruel into the coin and rinse.

How to clean brass coins?

Money made from copper-zinc alloy is not particularly susceptible to corrosion, but cleaning may be necessary from time to time. If you are interested in how to clean brass coins at home, then you should know that such products will be effective: thick soapy water, citric acid and Coca-Cola. In addition, you can use the following options:

1. Oxalic acid. In the store you can buy a product that will quickly remove plaque. It is necessary to immerse the coins for 5-10 minutes, then they must be washed in water.
2. Trilon-B. Dissolve the indicated agent in warm water, given the proportion of 1:10. Dip a coin into the solution and periodically rinse it in running water and check the status. If necessary, soaking is repeated.

Aluminum Bronze Coin Cleaning

Products made from this material can be cleaned using the options described for copper coins. There are several more methods on how to clean old coins at home:

1. Coca Cola. A good solvent for contaminants is a popular drink that needs to be filled with products and left for a week. After the allotted time, rinse the coins in water, and the result will be incredible.
2. Bathroom cleaner. Coins should be dipped into the solution for only a couple of minutes, and then rinsed.

Coin cleaning methods

There are several methods for cleaning coins with affordable products that you can find at home. Through experimentation, you can choose for yourself the most effective option. There is a universal coin cleaner that includes several ingredients at once. With it, you can remove green plaque, rust and other oxides:

1. Mix 25 ml of soap and soda solution and add 75 ml of toothpaste and 25 ml of ammonia there.
2. Dip all the coins into the finished product and leave them there until completely cleaned. From time to time, take them out and rub them with a toothbrush to evaluate the result. Finally, rinse the coins with water.

Cleaning coins by electrolysis

For the procedure you will need electrical devices therefore it is important to follow the safety regulations. Describing what to clear soviet coins, it is worth noting that when using electrolysis, the risk of spoiling the product increases significantly. The procedure must be carried out in a well-lit and ventilated area. Be sure to protect your hands and eyes. There is an instruction on how to clean coins by electrolysis:

1. Prepare a power supply with a voltage of 6-12 V. Cut off the plugs and cut the wires into two parts. Clean the ends and attach the copper strands to the clamps.
2. Take a plastic container and fill it with saline by combining 1 liter of water with 1 tbsp. a spoonful of salt.
3. Connect the power supply to the mains and lower the clamps into the saline solution. The "+" terminal will hiss and should be connected to a coin. The cleaning process will take approximately 10 minutes.

Cleaning coins with ammonia

To cope with copper oxides, it is necessary to use chemical cleaning methods. For example, you can use a 5-15% ammonia solution, which is popularly called ammonia. Please note that this product has a pungent odor, so use it carefully. There are several features on how to clean a coin to a shine in ammonia:

1. Pour the product into a plastic container and dip the coins into it, which should be rotated periodically. Please note that you can not immediately get them, as the product may deteriorate.
2. When the cleaning is completed, it is necessary to pour water into the ammonia, thereby reducing the concentration. Only when the solution is weak, you can take out the coins and rinse them under running water.

Cleaning coins with soap

One of the most simple methods, which has been used for more than a dozen years, implies the use of. It not only removes dirt well, but is also safe for the product. When figuring out how to clean coins, it is worth considering the instructions for using soap:

1. Pour boiling water into a plastic container and rub 70% laundry soap. Close the container and leave until the mixture becomes thick.
2. After that, send coins to the resulting mass and leave them for two days. After the time has elapsed, take them out and clean them using a soft toothbrush. If contamination remains, the procedure can be repeated.

Cleaning coins with citric acid

You can clean coins and save money at the same time, you can use citric acid. It removes dirt and gives the coins a shine, as if they were just minted. Please note that the prepared solution can be aggressive towards the metal, so it is important to constantly monitor the process. Copper and silver coins are cleaned differently. When using copper products, consider:

1. Pour citric acid into a plastic container and pour in water. The concentration of the solution can be chosen independently, taking into account the degree of contamination.
2. Stir the solution until the acid is completely dissolved and put coins in it. When one side is clean, flip over to the other side.
3. Citric acid during the procedure also removes the patina, which, if desired, can be restored independently. It is necessary to place the cleaned coins with reverse side ventilation grilles in the kitchen for a few days.

Another will be instructions on how to clean coins with citric acid if they are made of silver:

1. Pour 200 ml of warm water into a plastic container and add 2 teaspoons of citric acid. Stir until dissolved.
2. Dip the coins in the solution for 10 minutes, and then remove and wipe them with a toothbrush. It is important not to leave them in solution for a long time.

Can you clean coins with vinegar?

If the coins are of little value, then a vinegar solution can be used, which can discolor or corrode the surface. In addition, there is an opinion that after such cleaning, the products will deteriorate more strongly. You can just put coins in a 10% vinegar solution for a day, but there is another way. Describing how to clean an old coin, you should offer an option using a solution of vinegar and salt:

1. Take 1/4 tbsp. vinegar and add 5 g of salt. If there are a lot of coins, then use 0.5 tbsp. vinegar and 15 g of salt. Stir until the salt is completely dissolved. Put the coins in the solution so that they lie separately from each other. Soaking time - 5 minutes. If some of the dirt has not come off, then brush the coins again. It remains to rinse them in strong water.

cleaning coins with baking soda

An effective method is the alkaline cleaning method, which is suitable for copper and silver coins. For those who are interested in how to clean coins with soda, you should know that there are two ways:

1. Mechanical cleaning of coins involves the creation of a slurry at the first stage, for which add a little water to a spoonful of soda. Apply the resulting mixture to the coin, then remove the dirt using a soft brush. Baking soda can be used after acid cleaning to quench the reaction.
2. To get a good result, you can combine cleaning with a solution of soap and soda. After cleaning, lubricate the surface with alcohol and petroleum jelly.