There are two main ways of draining swamps: drainage by open ditches and drainage by drainage.
Drainage of marshes with open ditches are used in cases where it is impossible to lay underground drainage in newly developed swamps (from the proper settlement of the swamp to the compaction of the peat deposit).
An open drainage system consists of a conductive and control network of ditches. The first includes main canals flowing into water receivers (rivers, streams, etc.) and transport collectors flowing into main canals.
The purpose of the conductive network is to receive and divert water from the regulating network of ditches.
The regulating network includes drainage ditches that divert water from the area being drained. In addition, if necessary, upland ditches are also arranged to intercept surface water flowing into the swamp from adjacent hills, as well as trapping ditches to intercept the flow of soil-ground and groundwater.
The distances between the drainage ditches (with an average working depth of 80-90 cm) are determined mainly by the climatic conditions of the zone, the type and type of swamp and the composition of cultivated crops. As you move north, these distances gradually decrease.
Often swamps need not only drainage, but also bilateral regulation of the water regime. A swamp that is sufficiently drained for the spring period often turns out to be overdried in the summer. In addition, as mentioned above, agricultural plants in different periods of their growth and development require different conditions for the water regime of the soil.
There are three methods of bilateral regulation of the water regime of peat soils: water infiltration from open channels or ditches, regulation of drainage flow, and additional installation of molehill drains.
With bilateral regulation of the water regime on the drainage network, a system of locks is installed according to the developed project, with the help of which water in canals and ditches either lingers at a certain level, or descends into them partially or completely.
In deep marshes with good to moderately permeable peat, locking does not require a more frequent network of ditches than is necessary for drainage; in the same swamps, but with poorly permeable peat, locking is effective only with mole drainage.
The main lock is installed in the upper part of the main canal, smaller locks - at the mouths of the transport collectors flowing into it.
Based on three years of experiments on the study of swamp locking, carried out in field conditions three different types developed lowland swamps (state farm "Zarechye" and collective farm "Will Fighter" of the Byelorussian SSR, state farm No. 17 of the Oryol region), we can draw the following conclusions (A. I. Ivitsky):
- locking in swamps with low and medium permeability of peat, underlain by loam, has little effect on the groundwater level and, after a long and large water backwater in ditches, spreads away from them only by 10-15 m;
- in swamps with a shallow depth of peat, cut through by dryers and underlain by sand, locking affects groundwater quickly and, with a large layer of water in dryers, affects the entire width of the drained strips (60-80 m);
- in swamps with a thick peat deposit, with good water permeability of peat, locking affects groundwater quickly, causing fluctuations in their level in strips 80 m wide;
- The use of mole drainage when locking bogs makes it possible (with a small distance between drains) to regulate the level of groundwater and the moisture content of peat soil within the required limits even in poorly permeable bogs.
However, drainage systems in developed swamps, consisting of an open network of ditches, do not meet modern requirements. Agriculture due to the small distances between the ditches, which makes it impossible to effectively use agricultural machines and tools due to the loss of a significant part of the usable area (up to 10-15%); spread along ditches of weeds, as well as diseases and pests of agricultural crops; significant increase in the cost of operation of drainage systems.
In this regard, open drainage systems in swamps should be gradually replaced by more advanced - closed or combined systems.
Drainage of swamps by drainage. With closed drainage, almost the entire drainage network (except for the main canals, and sometimes some of the first-order collectors) is underground. In this regard, the disadvantages that are characteristic of an open drainage network are almost completely eliminated.
Underground drainage provides faster and more uniform regulation of the water regime of the soil over the entire area of the drained strips than an open drainage network.
According to S. G. Skoropanov’s calculations, based on the experiments and production data of the Byelorussian SSR, each hectare of peat-bog soils drained by closed drainage yields an average of 20-25% more agricultural output than a hectare of arable land drained by a network of open ditches.
V. S. Linevich (1951) found that the cost of tractor work in areas with a closed network is 33% lower than in areas with a dense network of open ditches. From various kinds drainage, the first place is occupied by pottery drainage, consisting of tubes with an internal diameter of 4-5 cm (diameters of collector drains are 7-20 cm). This drainage works well and is distinguished by longevity (40-50 years or more). It is laid after the settlement of the swamp and the compaction of the peat deposit.
Plank tubular and grooved drainage works well (pipes of a quadrangular section 5 × 5 or 7X7 cm, knocked down from boards 12-20 mm thick, or pipes made from a stock with a hole diameter of 5-8 cm; collector cross-sections from 8X8 to 18X18 cm). The service life of such drainage is 15-20 years.
Mole drainage has given positive results in draining bogs without stumps with weakly and moderately decomposed peat and is currently used in some areas of the non-chernozem zone.
The technological process of laying mole drains is as follows: the working body (knife, saw or cutter) cuts the soil vertically to the entire drainage depth; a drainer, that is, a metal cylinder with a pointed front end, mounted at the end of a knife, pushes the soil apart and forms a molehill-like passage in the peat; the expander, moving behind the drainer, expands the drain to the required dimensions.
In swamps, drainers with expanders are used, making a drain with a diameter of up to 20-25 cm; such a size of the drain is needed because peat, due to its elasticity, expands again and reduces the cavity by 1.5-2 times, and sometimes even more.
The depth of laying molehill drains on peatlands is 0.8-1 m, the distance between drains is 10-30 m, the length of drains is from 200 to 400 m. . The service life of mole drainage in poorly and moderately decomposed peatless peat is on average from 3 to 5 years, in some cases longer.
On stumpy peatlands, wormhole drainage can be used, which is laid with a drainage-disk machine DDM-5 or a drainage-screw DVM, created by the All-Union Institute of Peat Industry.
IN Lately plastic drainage is being tested when draining lowland swamps. Viniplast pipes and seamless pipes made of high density polyethylene are used.
Two-year experiments (1963-1964) of the Belarusian Institute of Land Reclamation and Water Management showed that plastic drainage can be used both on virgin and already developed lowland bogs; that its drainage action is not inferior to that of pottery drainage; but the cost of this drainage is still high (about 350-380 rubles/ha).
Research work in the direction of improving the design and technology of laying plastic drainage, as well as reducing its cost, continues.
Detailed questions about the structures, conditions and techniques for installing various types of drainage are set out in special guidelines for hydromelioration.
The distances between drains and the depth of their laying depend on the permeability of peat, the nature of the water supply of the swamp, the amount of precipitation, evaporation, and the required depth of lowering the groundwater level for cultivated crops.
The Novgorod Bog Experimental Station (Novgorod Region) for field crop rotations in transitional swamps recommends distances between drains of 20-25 m at a depth of 0.8-1 m. In the northern regions (Arkhangelsk and Murmansk regions, Karelian ASSR and Komi ASSR) and close to them transitional swamps for the same crop rotations, the distance between drains is 15-20 m at the same depth of laying drains.
According to the Minsk Bog Experimental Station, high yields of field crops, including vegetable and industrial crops, were obtained in lowland bogs at a distance between drains from 20 to 50 m and a depth of their laying from 0.9 to 1.2 m.
When draining the swamps of the northern, northwestern and central regions of the non-chernozem zone of the European part of the Union, the following approximate distances between drains are recommended.
Large distances between drains should be taken on weakly and moderately decomposed peat, since it is more permeable. For the northern regions, the interdrains are smaller, and for other regions - larger.
Combined dehumidification, that is, the use of open ditches in combination with closed drains (collectors are open, and dryers are closed), allows you to drain areas of such sizes that can fully meet the requirements of mechanization of field work and pasture use of marsh lands.
Drainage by more rare open or closed ditches in combination with molehill drains is currently a fairly common method of draining swamps. Mole drainage, as mentioned above, is laid on stumpless, and mole-slit drainage is laid on stumpy peatlands with a thickness of at least 1 m. also from their correct device (choice of diameter, slope and outlets to the collectors).
Low-lying and transitional bogs with well-decomposed peat, unstable for mole drainage, can be drained by combined drainage using various types of tubular drains - plank, pottery, plastic, etc.
Drainage of groundwater bogs, located mainly in the terraced parts of floodplains, has its own characteristics. Here, the system of deep trapping open ditches or drains, located in the zone of wedging out of soil-ground and groundwater, is of great importance. With ground-pressure supply, in addition to regulating the water intake, an additional drainage network is required.
On drained low-lying swamps, the so-called aeration mole is sometimes used according to the Tyulenev-Rudich method. This enhances the drainage effect of the network of ditches, and, in addition, improves the thermal and nutrient regimes of soils.
Mole removal is carried out with the help of a five-body machine KDM-6, developed by UkrNIIGiM. The bodies of this machine are 1 m apart from each other and can go deep into the peat bog up to 50-60 cm. The diameter of the molehills is 10-20 cm. The productivity of the machine is 1-1.2 ha/hour.
As special studies have shown, aeration mole-growing in low-lying floodplain bogs of the Ukrainian SSR has a favorable effect on the water-air, thermal, and nutritional regimes of peat soil, makes it possible to speed up the sowing time and significantly increases the yield of agricultural crops.
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Waterlogged soil on the site is a problem for its owners. When buying a plot, you can determine the excess moisture by the presence of reeds, sedges, and rushes. Subsequently, the owners are faced with unpleasant fumes, mosquitoes, poor growth of garden plants. Plants disappear due to insufficient access of oxygen to the roots, their decay, exposure to toxic products (nitrates, acids, aluminum salts) formed in swampy soil.
Wetland and clay soilIt is costly to build a house on swampy land. We have to build a deep pile foundation.
All these troubles can be eliminated by draining the territory. There is a solution to the problem, and you can try to get rid of excess moisture yourself. The key to success in this case is an understanding of the nature of the swampiness of the site.
Different situations - different solutions
It is sometimes difficult for a specialist to determine the cause of the formation of a swamp. In this situation, it is important to get acquainted with the surroundings, inspect the lands of neighbors. Excessive soil moisture usually has two main causes:
- The placement of the allotment in the bottom of the reservoir, which leads to the location of groundwater quite close to the surface. This reason is rarely confirmed, since few people will dare to consciously acquire land in the swamp.
- Disturbance of the natural flow of water as a result of heavy rains. This problem is associated with several factors - the location of the site below the neighboring ones (water constantly flows to it after rains), the location of a layer of viscous clay close to the surface, or the presence of a source feeding the swamp.
Each case has its own solution to the problem, tested by more than one generation of farmers. An analysis of the situation on the site will allow you to decide which of the drainage methods to apply.
High groundwater level
Reeds grow - water is nearby Drainage of superficially located groundwater (“perch water”) will allow closed-type drainage, made at a sufficient depth. Such drainage is installed along the perimeter of the site, as well as throughout its territory. With abundant waters, when drainage into the deep layers of the soil does not lead to a result, a drainage well and a pump are needed that can constantly pump out water and divert it outside the territory.
clay soil
Organization of drainage on clay soil Soil with a high content of clay does not pass moisture well, and the earth remains damp for a long time after rain and snow melt. If at the same time the land plot is located at an angle, the inflow of water comes from the surface of the earth located above. The optimal solution in such a situation is the use of backfill and open ditches for the accumulation and removal of moisture into the depths of the earth.
The organization of drainage of a closed type is not so effective, and the formation of a filtration layer to the surface of the earth is far from always justified.
marshland
The optimal, but very costly solution is to raise the ground level and make a drainage ditch along the perimeter. Before draining the site, it is important to consider plans for the use of the territory and determine the depth of drainage. With seasonal waterlogging of the territory, you can dig a ditch in the lowest part of the site. In addition to it, it is necessary to make open drainage channels, often located throughout the entire territory. sloping section should be protected from slipping of the earth by plants or geomats.
Drainage ditch along the site The location of the allotment in the lowland
You can cope with waterlogging with a pump and a drainage well. If it is appropriate and possible, the problem will be solved by a reservoir in the lowest part of the allotment and closed-type drainage performed over its entire area. Drainage must be carried out to a state in which there will be no destruction of the foundations of buildings, and it will be possible for plants to develop.
Learn more about dehumidification methods
An allotment of land can be drained different ways land reclamation. Before choosing the right one, consider the following factors:
- soil water resistance, its composition;
- direction and level of groundwater location;
- buildings in the garden;
- the height to which the groundwater level is to be lowered.
Delivery of soil to raise the level of the site Raising the surface level of the allotment will allow the delivery of fresh fertile soil. If the land is plowed up, it will mix with the viscous and dense swampy soil, and it will be possible to grow crops in the garden. Lands cultivated in this way do not require fertilizer for several subsequent years. However, the swamp is a stable ecosystem, so it cannot be ruled out that it will return to its original form over time.
Sand application
If you add sand in the same proportion with the soil of the site, the quality of the land improves and air exchange increases. With the additional introduction of humus, it is possible to cultivate vegetables, berries, and herbs on the ground. Adding sand to waterlogged soil is creating more effective ways land reclamation. The method is effective on its own, if applied to clay soils ah with a slight excess of surface water.
Drainage
The arrangement of the drainage system is the most effective method divert surface water to long time. To create it, plastic pipes with small diameter holes in the walls are used. First, it is necessary to wrap the pipes with holes with geotextile in 1-3 layers, depending on the size of the soil particles. They are placed in pre-prepared channels to the following depth:
- for clay soils - 65-75cm;
- for loams - by 70-90cm;
- for sandy areas - up to 1m.
Open and closed ditches
Construction of closed drainage ditches Open drainage ditches will allow excess water to be removed from the soil surface. They are made with edges beveled at an angle of 20 degrees. The disadvantage of this method is rapid shedding, contamination of the outflow with leaves, debris, and stagnant water. Such drainage structures should be cleaned regularly with a shovel. Open drainage ditches are not used in areas with sandy soil, since the sand is quickly washed out and drainage becomes inefficient. It is convenient to place an open drainage ditch on a site along the fence, where it does not interfere with anyone.
Closed drainage ditches - deep dug trenches covered with a layer of sand and disguised as garden paths. They have an aesthetic appearance, the soil does not collapse in them, the water inside does not bloom.
For the system to function properly, dug trenches are led into a well or dug them up to a layer of sand that will absorb moisture. If the channels become clogged, it will be difficult to clean with soil.
raised beds
When planning to cultivate greens, vegetables, strawberries, owners of waterlogged plots build high beds. Excess moisture collects between the beds, and the land with crops becomes drier. With the right approach, it is possible to grow crops even in areas with excess water. This is confirmed by photos of vegetable gardens in Holland, shrouded in a network of canals. Such conditions allow you to grow anything.
Creating high beds will allow not only to divert excess water, but also to decorate the garden Digging a pond or well
A decorative pond will collect excess moisture and allow it to gradually evaporate. At the same time, the territory of the garden will become noticeably drier, and the pond itself will decorate the landscape. A good example convinces of the effectiveness of this method - the Canal of the Cross, built for the same purpose in the park of Versailles.
Wells are not inferior in efficiency to ditches. To create them, pits are dug at the lowest points of the site, which are covered with rubble or sand. Their diameter at the bottom is half a meter, at the top - two meters, and the length is about a meter. After rain or snow melt, excess moisture gradually drains into them.
A pond collects rainwater and decorates the site Planting moisture-loving trees
Moisture-loving trees help rid the swampy garden of excess water. Weeping willows, alders and birches feel good here. Such trees evaporate excess liquid through the leaves. Willows and birches dry out the wetlands, but it will take several years for sufficient drainage. You can also cultivate cranberries, blueberries, viburnum. When the area becomes drier, you should move on to growing your favorite plants.
Willows will decorate and dry the site Reeds and sedges usually grow in wetlands. To combat them, drain the area in a suitable way, for example, by lowering excess moisture to the nearest stream. These plants have powerful root system, and only by removing it, you can avoid new growth for a certain time. To do this, you will have to dig deep holes with your own hands, remove each root, lay roofing material on the bottom of the holes. The bulrush seeds spread well, and if the ground remains wet, the problem will return.
Extreme measures
If none of the listed methods of melioration gave the desired result, or you don’t want to wait, you can invite specialists. With powerful pumps, they quickly pump out unnecessary moisture, and the effect will be visible within a day. However, this is an expensive service, and the problem of waterlogging may return over time.
When it was not possible to win in the fight for dry soil, you can put up with and beat the excessive moisture of the earth. To do this, you can equip the pond, surrounding it with plants that are demanding on moisture.
In humid conditions, blueberries, viburnum, cranberries, marsh iris, mint, buttercups, thuja, and heather grow well. A good addition will be girlish grapes, lush ferns, callas, some varieties of orchid plants.
There are many ways to deal with excess moisture in the garden. However, when none of them helped, you will have to accept and create your own corner of nature. The owner of a swampy allotment can successfully not only grow garden crops and flowers, but also build a house. There are many proven solutions for this.
I really love to solve those puzzle questions that make the imagination work and concentrate the gardening experience. It is such a task for me - the organization of landings in a wetland.
I understand that in the direction of the person who raised this topic, stones can “fly”, but I will try not to “download” problems in the swamp, but to help in finding their solution. And the conversation must begin a serious, substantive, for which it is necessary to collect information and summarize the existing positive experience.
Scientific reference
To understand the subject of discussion, I quote scientific definitions swamp, which is most often given on the net: " A swamp is a section of the landscape characterized by excessive moisture, high acidity and low soil fertility, an outlet to the surface of stagnant or flowing groundwater, but without a permanent layer of water on the surface. The swamp is characterized by the deposition of incompletely decomposed organic matter on the soil surface, which later turns into peat. The layer of peat in swamps is at least 30 cm, if less, then these are wetlands.
Swamp–landscape area characterized by excessive moisture, high acidity and low soil fertility
So by the layer of peat you can easily determine whether your site is in a swamp or wetland. Of course, the water regime of the territory may change over time. And in many cases, it is he who plays an important role in the life of our summer cottages.
By the way, many gardeners may not even suspect that their ever-damp turns into a wetland. First of all, this can be seen from the state of vegetation: the lawn becomes sparse, grasses grow in clumps, marsh plants settle on the lawn. You can recognize them by their characteristic appearance: sedges, for example, have triangular stems ...
... and the rushes are rounded, hollow, like green onion:
Real swamps are riding(on watersheds) and grassroots, or lowlands(in gradually overgrown reservoirs, oxbow lakes). If you cut their soil like layered cake, then the differences will be clearly visible:
The soil of lowland swamps is richer due to their abundant water and mineral nutrition (mainly due to groundwater). And raised bogs, which are fed by atmospheric precipitation, have depleted soils, where there are very few minerals; their water is very acidic.
But there is also a transitional type of swamps, which, according to the state of the soil, is somewhere between these two. Of course, in such different conditions and the vegetation will be different.
Is it possible to plant a garden in a swamp?
In those days when summer cottages were organized, as a rule, unprofitable territories were allocated for them, therefore, to this day, gardening enthusiasts and professionals often face the problem of waterlogging. Yes, and primordially inhabited lands can suffer from it.
Another difficult issue is the animals of the flooded territories.
But these are all difficulties, one might say, domestic and generally surmountable, and then our “technological” ones begin, which are very serious in essence claim to the site:
- Many plants, especially woody ones, do not grow here; the possible range of landings is narrow, sometimes generally unknown.
- It is impossible to build a standard house. and constantly require correction for dampness: moisture rises from below.
There are solutions for all problems. Usually one of the main stumbling blocks is material value question. But the eternal "know-how" and understanding of the nature of such a site are also important.
Problem Solving Approaches
Experts and scientists will say that draining the wetland will help melioration. Of course, in most cases one cannot do without professionals and equipment. By acting in an organized manner, members of the dacha association (neighbors) will be able to jointly organize and sponsor drainage work. But sometimes there is no money, and then the “herd” can try to raise this difficult issue.
Sometimes the solution to the problem of temporary flooding is to clean the reclamation canal, which is overgrown with grass or blocked by a pile of debris and plant debris. And sometimes you have to fight with neighbors who have built unauthorized structures or communications - here sometimes you can’t do without courts. A competent lawyer in a partnership is the key to solving the problem.
Drainage system device
In a wetland, building a house or other structure can be a big problem. - modern solution drainage issue.
Drainage - a modern solution to the issue of drainage, water disposal
At first, it is desirable to carry out organized reclamation throughout the surrounding area(drainage of the lands of the dacha partnership with ditches, organization of a general drainage system, arrangement of a reservoir at the lower point of the relief). The drainage system of the site should be organized after the construction of the house, but without putting it off for a long time. The level of complexity of the system depends on the specific conditions and capabilities of the owners. By the way, many are afraid that after installing the drainage system, the landscape will look unnatural. But I think successful examples can inspire you.
Here is a dark, damp corner of the garden where a stream flows: 
Agree, a “dry stream” looks much more profitable, more attractive, at the bottom of which special drainage structures with pipes are installed. And light pebbles imitate water, and even brighten up a rather gloomy area:
And on top of the drainage system (under special reservations and conditions that should be agreed with specialists), you can organize walk-through zones and paths:
But such work (at least projects), of course, is better to entrust to professionals.
House in the swamp
A house on a wetland must also correspond to the nature of the multilayer soil: pile, strip and slab foundations are possible here (the article talks about them in more detail). In my humble opinion, piles and waterproofing are the main helpers and salvation from excessive moisture. This method is the most economical, quickly implemented. But beforehand, it is necessary to conduct a study of the soil, revealing "quicksands" - marshy "pockets". It is better that professionals (geologists, surveyors) do this. Here is a link to a visualization video.
Research is carried out in the spring; for small house- a minimum depth of 5 m, and for a large one - at least 8 m. If no problems with the soil are found, you can start installing piles. There are some nuances here: piles come in various lengths, screw and driven type; they should be set to the level of solid ground, and not the freezing level of the soil, as in a normal, non-wetland area. Sometimes piles of different lengths are used for one house, since solid ground can be at different depths. And, unfortunately, it is excluded on such a site, which will upset the thrifty owners.
What grows by itself and what we can plant
On lowland and raised bogs there are various plants, including very useful ones.
What are we growing?
On the lowland swamps(with a smaller layer of black peat than on horseback ones) can grow,. Quite often here is calamus marsh, reeds,.
Also here you can see a series, valerian, plakun-grass (), poisonous hemlock, pepper mountaineer.
On the raised bogs(with a thick layer of peat, poor soil with high acidity), less demanding plants settle: sometimes birch, cotton grass, sphagnum moss, cassandra, sheikhzeria, cuckoo flax.
In any case, you will have a poor one, which will have to be alkalized and improved. Perfect option- bring a lot clay soil, sand, and mix with peat. To neutralize hyperacidity, it is necessary to add dolomite flour (the amount depends on which plants are cultivated).
On such a plot, all plants that grow here initially, as well as most of the representatives of related species and their varieties, are successfully cultivated. Particular attention, in my opinion, can be paid to varieties of cranberries, blueberries, heather, ornamental sedges.
What will we plant?
After reclamation has been carried out, the soil has been partially replaced, its acidity has been neutralized, plants can be planted on the site for moderately moist soils: marsh and Siberian, marsh, river, common cuckoo color, (arunkus), buttercups, black cohosh, moisture-loving, decodon ( these are different plants!), cortuses, hemp-shaped vine,. You can even try to grow lysichiton, various orchids.
If there is a strong desire to equip the lawn, then you need to choose legumes and cereals that can withstand flooding (just keep in mind that they can be quite high): bluegrass meadow, fibrous wheatgrass, hybrid, common beckmania, reed dwarf, red fescue, shakers, odorous spikelet , awnless bonfire, white and giant bent grass, large mannik, reed canary grass, reed grass, blue sesleria, marsh rank, meadow foxtail, blue lightning.
Of course, you should definitely start in the wetland and its decorative forms. They will also grow well, and with their many varieties. It is worth trying to grow in the driest places, as well as brilliant cotoneaster,.
You can find a wide range of different types of plants for the wetland in our catalog, which combines the offers of many large garden online stores. .
Of course, the types and varieties of berries that grow in swamps and wetlands deserve special mention: cranberries and blueberries (certain species, varieties),. Seedlings of these crops are already appearing frequently in garden centers. Their agricultural technology in a wetland is not difficult, and your dacha will have its own "trick" - the envy of friends and an example for neighbors. However, problems can arise with blueberries: they do not tolerate stagnant water, so drainage must be carefully monitored.
And also...
Perhaps you should try to "populate" the mycelium and grow mushrooms right on the site.
And the mycelium of various mushrooms can be found in our catalog, which contains offers from many large garden online stores. .
So we should not be afraid either: it is better to make mistakes and find the only right solution than to sit back and dream.
Choosing approaches to design
If we are organizing a garden in a country house in a swampy area, then in choosing a color scheme it is worth paying attention to the general light and warm colors. A variety of flowering and decorative leafy species is welcome. It is extremely important to take care of the continuous decorativeness of the garden, which can partly be achieved through the original layout of the site, the use of small architectural forms, interesting pavements and road grid patterns. A properly selected contrast of shapes, colors, textures of plants and buildings will certainly play its role.
If we miss any element among the plant components, we can try to compensate for this by other means, for example, by painting the house; using garden decor; installation of new lighting that changes the appearance of the garden; organization of light paths, bright.
A pond on such a site is not a luxury, it is just a logical given from nature!
There are many negative aspects that the summer resident has to face. Either the land is not fertile and the plants do not want to grow, then the summer drought destroys the entire crop, then pests and diseases do not give rest.
For someone, the site is a steep slope and it takes a lot of time and effort to turn it into a convenient and beautiful place. Not less than important issue flooding occurs.
Only by carrying out activities aimed at draining suburban area, you can get rid of this trouble. Today we will consider what needs to be done for this in order to forget about excess moisture for a long time.
How to dry the area with your own hands? Basic ways
The degree of swamping of the site is different and can be due to various factors. For example, there is such a case when excessive moisture is more due to the relief and type of soil. Those. water cannot leave the site along a natural slope. Then it is necessary to create this slope artificially by planning the territory. If necessary, bring up the earth, fill in the recesses.
It happens that water stands only because you have heavy clay soil. In this case, if it is not possible to make a backfill, you need to arrange drainage. With it, you can drain the swamp on the site. To do work on laying the drainage system, you will need some knowledge, competent calculation, accurate planning.
There are many companies that, for a fee, will perform not only the calculation, but also all earthen and installation work. Alternative option- do everything with your own hands, having previously studied all the necessary information.
Moreover, water from the drainage system can flow into the reservoir, which is arranged at the lowest point of the cottage. The purpose of the reservoir can be anything: for irrigation, a decorative structure with plants, etc.
Related article: Office furniture: distinctive features, Main characteristics
Almost all drying methods garden plot consists in the diversion of water from the territory. It's just fine if the water has somewhere to leave the site, but it happens that the cottage is located lower in relation to the surrounding area, or there are some structures (buildings, fences, etc.) in the way of the running water. In this case, water must be collected centrally. This can usually be done by constructing a system of channels and ditches.
It should be understood that water must also leave the ditch, which is determined on the spot, depending on the location of neighboring sections. Dig it in the lowest place.
If the site is more or less flat and has a clearly directed slope, then the ditch is placed along the fence in a low place, and it should have a width of about 50 cm and a depth of at least 1 m, a length of 2-3 m.
Then, during the year, the ditch must be gradually filled with various construction and other solid waste (broken bricks, stones, broken glass). It is laid quite tightly, and when the ditch is filled to the lower boundary of the fertile land, a similar ditch is dug nearby, which will be a continuation of the old one.
The removed vegetable soil from the new ditch is laid in the old one. By doing so, you will get good drainage system along the perimeter of the site. You may have a question, why make a ditch (drainage) in the highest place? You don’t have to, but if another one located above adjoins your site on this side, then there is a sense in such a closed ditch, because it will intercept water from its neighbors, preventing it from flowing through the entire cottage.
As you can see, in order to properly drain the wetland, you need to combine several methods. This includes backfilling, drainage, and the construction of ditches and canals. One more additional way, which is called biological, is to use moisture-loving plants that will absorb some of the moisture.
