In the manufacture of furniture or any structure made of wood, sometimes it is necessary to connect parts with a tongue-and-groove connection. There are many ways to make this compound. I want to talk about one of possible ways- making this connection on a milling table. I think that a table is not necessary either, it is enough to attach some kind of tricky plank to the router, but that’s how much fantasy is enough for that. But, at our disposal there is a table with a built-in router. Really ugly looking, but quite functional.
So let's start a more detailed review.
First you need to decide on the depth of the groove, respectively, from here the spike departure will be known. In our case - 20mm. To get the stud protrusion, set the stop milling table at a distance of 20 mm from the edge of the cutter opposite the stop. For understanding, as shown in the photo:
The overhang of the cutter determines the thickness of the tenon. In our case, the thickness of the spike should be 10mm, the workpiece has a thickness of 20mm. Accordingly, on both sides it is necessary to remove a layer of material equal to 5 mm. Here is the overhang of the cutter.
For the convenience of maintaining the workpiece, a pusher is visible on the table - a rectangular piece of plywood. It provides basing and clamping of the workpiece during processing. This ensures more stable operation and speeds up the process. The photo below shows the process of obtaining a spike:
In the photo, the blue arrows show the direction of the pressing forces during the processing of the workpiece.
For several passes, a spike plane is formed in a horizontal plane, then we turn the workpiece over and in the same way we get the ends of the spike.
Thus, we run all the details on which it is necessary to make a spike.
The next stage is the manufacture of a groove in the workpiece. In our case, the groove is the width of the cutter, that is, 10mm. depth - 20mm. To do this, we change the overhang of the cutter to the required groove depth, but a little more than the calculated one by 2-3 mm, so the groove depth will be slightly larger to ensure a tight connection of the parts. Install and fix the cutter limiter to this position.
On the table itself we apply risks - orientators. They determine the position of the extreme marking points relative to the cutter. To apply risks, we stick masking tape on the table (I didn’t have adhesive tape, I used electrical tape). And we apply perpendiculars relative to the stop of the milling table and the diameter of the cutter, as shown in the figure:
Then we set the cutter overhang to a small overhang for the first pass, 5-7 millimeters ...
And we start the workpiece in the center, between the marking lines. After cutting the cutter into the workpiece, we drive it, as shown in the photo below, until the marks on the workpiece and on the table (duct tape) are aligned - this will correspond to the position of the cutter at the extreme point of the groove. Then we lead the workpiece to the opposite end and in the same way until the marks are aligned. The first pass is ready.
Then we increase the overhang of the cutter, also by eye for the second pass and do the same. The third pass - we set the maximum overhang of the cutter, i.e. according to the previously set limiter on the milling cutter. The third pass is the final one, it forms the required groove depth and at the same time the groove width is finally calibrated. The photo below shows the final processing of the groove.
For your own safety, the progress of work is shown on the already machined part and with the milling cutter stopped!
Then we prepare the spike for connection. Because the shape of the grooves is formed by a cutter, respectively, the edges of the grooves are rounded. We carefully trim the rectangular ends of the spikes with a chisel. And here is the result - a trial assembly of the node ...
There are many types of different compounds that are widely used today in repairs. They are needed for assembling and repairing furniture, for connecting individual parts of some functional elements. But the spiked connection deserved the greatest popularity among all types.
A spike connection is a connection wooden parts by a snug fit in the holes (grooves) of the spikes.
The connection based on grooves and thorns is mainly used for wooden materials. It provides a fairly strong docking, while preventing the deformation of parts. This is especially good for furniture, when it is necessary to ensure maximum reliability of fasteners.
Everyone can make a spike connection, but before a serious assembly, you need to practice properly if you do not have any carpentry skills. As a result, you can get a fairly high-quality fixation. And if it is additionally fastened metal corners, then the strength of your furniture is at a high level.
Dovetail tongue and groove production.
There are many ways to make a stud connection. But before considering the main most common of them, it is advisable to take into account some rules and subtleties that will definitely need to be followed during the work:
- If you have the opportunity, then make a spike on special precision equipment. This will ensure that the dimensions of the spikes and grooves match each other as closely as possible. Such equipment is in every carpentry shop or in the office for industrial labor training.
- It happens that you are going to make furniture that does not require much precision. Then you can make connections with your own hands. To do this, the spikes must be cut exclusively along the grain of the wood. In this case, the width should be approximately 17-20 thicknesses of the main part. So you can avoid chips and cracks.
- Things are a little easier with cutting spikes on plywood. In this case, the thickness of the spinal sinus can be absolutely any. The width of the main parts does not affect this. But the principle of matching in the direction of the fiber remains the same.
- After the thorns have been cut and their size checked, the tree must be slightly dried. This refers to the usual keeping of the material indoors throughout the day. This will allow the wood to take on a permanent shape, which will help avoid joint distortion in the future.
Tool preparation and the first part of measurements
Measurement of straight spiked joints.
And now we will consider the main and most common option of how you can make a high-quality spike connection with your own hands. It is based on the use of a regular file or a large saw (depending on the dimensions required).
So, the first step is to choose a tool. It is important to keep in mind that each file has its own cutting width. Therefore, in the end, part of the spike will become a little larger. And how much - it depends directly on this width. That is why, when measuring connection parameters, consider the width of the cut.
Now start marking. For this you will need a pencil and a ruler. First, measure the parts that need to be connected to each other. After that, the width of the parts is applied at the place of the future cut. In this case, the depth of the cut itself will be exactly equal to the thickness of the main part.
As a rule, in many types of furniture, several tenons or grooves may be required on one piece. In this case, you need to focus on how they will be the same. If they are identical, then one measurement is enough. At different sizes required number of measurements. Also remember the rule: in thick parts, it is advisable to make cuts a little less, and in thin parts - deeper.
Markup of the second part
Elements of spike connection.
After that, we move on to marking the second part of the connection. To do this, you need to take two parts that are supposed to be connected, and attach them tightly to each other. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the correspondence of coincidence with the lines of cuts. When the parts are perfectly attached to each other, it is recommended to clamp them in a vise so that they do not move.
Now that the parts are properly fastened, you need to mark the second part that has not yet been marked with a pencil, and then make the initial cuts with a file. These will not be solid lines, but just thin marks that look like scratches. But it is still necessary to do them, since it will be easier to work later. Only when making marks, try to do so in order to achieve perfect evenness and avoid bends.
After that, it is necessary to release the parts and move them relative to each other. Here's what's important to keep in mind. If you shift the parts just a little to the width of the file, then the connection will turn out to be quite rigid. And if you make the shifts a little more, it will be more free.
However, it cannot be said that any of the options is bad. It all depends on the nature and size of the parts to be joined. And also from the specific type of wood used. If you are using plywood, then you can only make shifts along the width of the cut, since in any case it will not undergo severe deformation.
Final formation of spiked joints
Methods of spiked joints of wooden parts.
When all this is done, we proceed to the thorough formation of spikes and grooves. In order for everything to go right, it is necessary to constantly take measurements during work in order to eliminate, if possible, the risk of error. Pay special attention to the evenness of the lines. For large parts, use the building level to control.
So, the main part of the work is over: spiked joints are formed. Now you need to finally measure everything to make sure it is correct, after which you can proceed to the final design. To do this, you can use sandpaper or manual jigsaw. It depends on how rough the surface is.
Next comes the connection. It is important to consider the type of connection here. They are detachable and non-detachable. One-piece connections should be stronger and more solid, and detachable ones such that, if necessary, they can be disassembled. For one-piece joints, glue is used, and for detachable joints, it is necessary to slightly round the corners.
The option of how you can make spiked joints with your own hands is considered.
There are several more ways, but they are already more complex, and more suitable for professionals. But if you don’t rush anywhere, then you can gradually acquire skills and do the work in the future simply.
May 26 2016
How to make a spike connection on a straight spike
Another master class, I must say that it is quite detailed and no less useful from Alexander. Today we will talk about spiked connection. The straight tenon is the basis of carpentry. How to perform it in artisanal conditions (and at the same time in an equipped carpentry workshop) will tell our today's lesson.
Let's consider the basic principles of making a tenon connection using the example of two blanks on a wide and narrow one, the thickness of all parts will be 30 mm. To begin with, we note the width of the blanks. Then it is necessary to set aside the hangers, usually this is 1/3 of the material - we retreat 1 cm inward, make a note 
It is most convenient to carry out marking using a carpenter's square 
If everything is simple with a narrow workpiece, then for a wide workpiece it is necessary to make a segmented spike (for better grip). Segmented, that is, consisting of several small spines. To do this, we find the center 
retreat in each direction by 1 cm, i.e. on the shoulder, we note. 
Here's what we get. The shaded parts will bulge out. 
The depth of the groove should be half the depth, in this case it is 30 mm, but it should be 2-3 mm deeper in order for the adhesive to have a place to exit. We mark the depth on the drill with electrical tape. The drill is set in the center of the workpiece. 
With the help of a drilling and filler machine - we have already considered it. (by the way, you can use a conventional drilling machine). First, we drill several adjacent holes. 
Then, moving the workpiece from side to side with a recessed drill, we cut off the remaining jumpers. 
This is how the groove turns out - with the help of a primitive drilling and grooving device. Of course, it is not perfectly beautiful, and the edges are rounded, but it has exactly the specified dimensions and is located exactly in the center of the workpiece. 
In a professional workshop, such a mortising machine is used. 
This is how the groove turns out - with the help of a professional drilling and grooving device, after which there is no need to round the spikes 
We turn to their preparation of the spikes themselves. Let's start with an amateur technique - sawing a spike on a circular with a carriage. 
First, we make a cut along the marking line, then by shifting the workpiece we gradually remove excess material. 
We turn the workpiece over and repeat the manipulations on all sides. 
The result is such a neat spike. But it needs to be improved a bit. 
There are two ways to get the spike into the groove. The first is to take a chisel and gouge out the rounding of the groove 
or the second option is to take a rasp and round the edges of the spike under the groove 
We make a wide workpiece on a professional device - a milling cutter with a wide cutter. 
in the same way we bypass the spike from all sides. Everything is obtained in one pass - much faster than with a carriage. 
We segment the spike with the same circular. 
We remove the gap by adjusting the offset of the disk. 
Well, the tongue and groove are made, let's move on to their connection. It must be adhesive.
When gluing, it is necessary to lubricate the groove from the inside or the eye, it is also necessary to coat the surface of the spike.
“I do not recommend lubricating the end of the workpiece, because it still will not stick to the plate - only the spike and the inner surface of the eyelet will hold. You don’t need to lubricate a lot, because the spike and the eyelet will swell under the influence of the water contained in the glue, thus creating conditions for a strong seam.”
Lubricate should be both the spike and the eye.
then by means of a press (wima). In the absence of such, the whole process can be carried out with a mallet.
Wipe off excess glue
We carry out the same manipulations with a wide workpiece: apply glue, connect
bait
We press in.
Summarize:
- In the manufacture of spiked joints and frame structures, it is necessary to make the standing one longer, i.e. leave tails. The tail of the stand should be longer than your facade on each side by one thickness of the material, this is done so that the workpiece does not disperse along the fibers during pressing.
- For wide workpieces, it is necessary to use a segmental tenon. The thickness of the spike is always made according to the standards - 1/3 of the thickness of the material, at least 1/4 of the thickness of the material is allowed. Shoulders - 1/3 of the thickness of the material, the gap between the spikes is 2/3 of the thickness of the material.
- The thorn in any case should be thicker. For softwoods 0.2 mm thicker, for hardwoods 0.1 mm thicker, all this is due to shrinkage of the wood.
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How to make a connection in a double "thorn groove"
So, in what cases do you need a tongue and groove connection?
Vertical lintels
In most products (for example, tables), jumpers or spacers are connected to vertical legs (Fig. 1). With this arrangement, the fibers on the surfaces of the parts to be glued are mutually perpendicular.
Horizontal lintels
Situation with jumpers, for example, on a wall table. how to do which we will describe in one of the following articles, somewhat different. To create drawer compartments, the lintels are installed horizontally with respect to the legs, and instead of one wide spike with a large bonding surface, you have two small bonding surfaces.
Solution
To solve this problem, you will have to cut out two grooves and two spikes (Fig. 2). This may look like a loose connection, but it's not really. Double spikes increase the bonding area due to two large cheeks.
So, making a connection double groove spike - a good option connecting legs with narrow (thin) jumpers, but at the same time, the number of cuts doubles. This does not mean that the number of machine settings is doubled.
In the wall table (about it in the next article) jumpers and legs of the same thickness. This means that the outer cheeks of the tenons (and grooves) can be at the same distance from the edges of the part.
Therefore, two grooves on each leg (and two outer cheeks of the tenons) can be sawn from one machine setting.
As in any tongue/tenon connection, the tongues must first be selected (fig. 3 and 4). Only one installation is required to drill them drilling machine. Then the ends of the grooves can be straightened with a chisel.
How to make double spikes
External cheeks
First, to cut the shoulder, install a longitudinal ruler, which will serve as a limiter (Fig. 5-7), determining the length of the tenon. Then lift the disk and cut out the first cheek with overlapping cuts. Then unfold the part and cut out the second cheek. Check fit and. if necessary, lift the disc.
Inner cheeks
Mark them directly in the grooves. To do this, place the part over the grooves and make the appropriate marks (photo 2). As with the outer cheeks, only one setting of the disk is needed to saw out the inner cheeks. But this time the part must be placed on the end (Fig. 8-13).
Then trim the spikes to the grooves with a sharp chisel.
Double thorn-groove connection - how to make: instructions for the photo
1. To create an opening for drawers, two jumpers are installed instead of one. But then the gluing surface on the spikes will decrease.
2. By using double tongues and grooves, the bonding area is doubled, which increases the bonding strength of the parts.
3. To determine the length of the grooves, on each part, mark their upper and lower ends. Then, to determine the width of the grooves, mark all their sides.
5. All cuts for double spikes can be done on a circular saw. An auxiliary bar will help to avoid chips at the end of the cuts.
6. The length of the spike is determined by the distance between the longitudinal ruler and outside disk. Excess wood is removed by overlapping passages.
7. Smoothly go to the final size of the cheeks (up to pencil marks). For an accurate fit, you need to clean the remaining scallops from the circular.
8. To cut out the inner cheeks, the part is placed on the end. The block-limiter pressed against the auxiliary bar helps to support the part.
9. To cut out the inner cheeks, first raise the disk almost to the shoulder. Then, using a spacer, press the stop block and cut out the inner cheek.
10. Without changing the setting of the disk, turn the part so that the opposite side of the part is pressed against the limiter block. Saw out the cheek and remove excess wood.
11. Roughly sawing the spikes, check their fit to the grooves. For an accurate fit, the cheeks and shoulders will have to be cut with a chisel.
12. If the spikes do not fit exactly into the grooves, several passes of a sharp chisel should remove the bumps on the outer sides of the cheeks.
13. In order for the spikes to fully fit into the grooves, it is necessary to cut their shoulders, while the inner shoulder can be slightly recessed.
Different types of joinery - which are stronger than others
Looking for a frame joint that won't fall apart when the kids turn the closet door into a play projectile?
Or a box joint that can withstand jerks and jolts without damage?
We tested 12 samples of both types in order to choose the best two from them.
In the past, we've put a variety of tongue and groove, tenon, butt and tie joints to the test to find out which one is the best. Now, to find out which frame and box joints are the strongest, we made dozens of test pieces and pushed them to death (literally).
For the door frames, we made six samples each with counter-profile connections, in tongue and groove, half-wood and with semi-hidden studs.
We also produced prototypes of box connections:
- with tongue and groove
- with straight box spikes,
- with open and semi-hidden dovetail spikes,
- keyway with dovetail groove,
- tongue-and-groove with two hangers,
- in a fold and a mustache with a lock.
To ensure equal conditions, all joints were made from wood of approximately the same density using the same adhesive. In samples of frame joints (with the exception of certain indicated cases), red oak with a section of 18 × 50 mm was used. Samples of box connections - from poplar 12 × 100 mm.
On the test equipment in each connection in two ways. The first measured the resistance of joints to rupture, as in the case of rough opening drawer or a sharp lateral jerk of the sliding door.
Another test tested the ability of the joints to resist fracture to the point of breaking the squareness of the parts and breaking the bond. (Imagine a child swinging on a closet door or a wide linen drawer twisted from a sudden pull.)
When the crackling and crunching of breaking wood subsided, we found that all joints withstood significantly more breaking stress than breaking, which seemed rather unusual in real conditions. For example, box joints, on average, withstood a tensile force of about 675 kgf, and only 36 kgf for a break.
The frame joints in the doors on average withstood a tensile strength of about 550 kgf, but only 231 kgf to break. You can compare the relative strength of the joints in each category according to the tables. After analyzing the columns of numbers, we found out a few features that you can apply in your workshop to make the connections stronger.
FRAME CONNECTIONS
Half tree connections
Result. In each tear test, the socket post was torn lengthwise along the wood before the spike on the crossbar broke. Output. The gluing along the fibers of the walls of the socket and the cheeks of the spike is strong enough, but weaker than in the joints in the half-tree.
Result. In tensile tests in all samples, the cracks in the posts coincided with the bottom of the socket. Output. Long spikes reduce the chance of cracking and strengthen the connection, as in previous tests.
Result. In none of the images tested did the spikes break or even show signs of weakness. Output. The rule repeatedly tested by practice to make spikes with a thickness equal to a third of the thickness of the parts once again proved the sufficient longitudinal strength of the spikes.
Result. In several samples tested for fracture, the spikes broke out the wood between the nest and the end of the post (see photo), but not before the posts burst along. Output. Use this connection for applications where increased reliability is required. The bonding strength of the spike is more than enough, despite the vulnerability of the thin wall of the socket.
Result. The connection is loosened when the end of the spike does not reach the bottom of the socket. Output. The gap between the bottom of the nest and the spike to collect excess glue weakens the connection. Try to keep it as low as possible and don't apply too much glue.
Tongue and tongue connections
Result. As with semi-counter stud joints, the studs break along the bottom of the tongue during tensile testing. In all cases, short spikes 10 mm long were firmly held by the adjacent walls of the grooves.
Output. Since the length of such studs is limited by the depth of the tongues in the posts, pay special attention to carefully fitting and gluing all elements of such a connection, including the ends and shoulders of the studs.
Result. The ends of the spikes tore off the fibers of the wood at the bottom of the tongues. Output. Glue does not fill gaps in joints well. Precisely lengthened spike increases strength and improves appearance connections.
Counter-profile connections
Semi-hidden dovetail connection (upper right)
Result. In tensile tests, the adhesive seams failed quickly, but the parts remained together due to the shape of the mechanical locking elements. Output. You can disassemble the cracked connection, remove old glue and re-glue the box.
Result. Rounded in tensile tests inner part some spikes came off under load. Output. Reduce the speed of the cutter to avoid burns on both parts of the connection. Then apply glue to both parts, not just to the nests.
Conclusion
Choose straight stud joints for drawers that are subject to rough handling, pulling or if they are used to store heavy items. If appearance is important and no end faces are to be seen at the corners, choose mustache joints with a lock that have almost the same strength. Tongue-and-groove connections are made simply, and they are strong enough to fasten the back wall of the box, located with an indent of at least 2-5 mm from the ends of the side walls. Open dovetail joints formed by a cutter lack fracture strength, but are considered among the most repairable, which is why they are so popular in the manufacture of heirloom pieces of furniture. Dovetail keyed joints are not durable or practical.
If the bottom will be inserted into the tongues of all four walls of the box, it is necessary to choose a different connection option for the front or back wall. The nail-reinforced folds don't look very elegant, but they are easy to make and are suitable for front and back fastening, which certainly makes them very convenient for making ordinary drawers that are not subject to increased requirements.
Instead of tongue and groove joints with two hangers, it is better to choose a connection with a mustache with a lock, unless you are forced to work only with a saw machine. Semi-hidden dovetail joints are not as strong as other joints, but they look spectacular, are not visible on the front of the box, and can be re-glued, like an open dovetail joint.
Strengthening wooden butt joints Butt joints...
