Home craftsmen often have to assemble furniture with their own hands. This happens when buying ready-made interior items and when self-manufacturing cabinets, cabinets, tables and the like. At the same time, the correct fastening of the guides on a wide variety of drawers becomes a real stumbling block. Despite the seeming simplicity of this work, installation errors can lead to sad consequences. In the process of further operation of the furniture, serious difficulties may arise. Therefore, it is important to immediately determine the type of guides themselves and the method of their installation.
Guide types
At the moment, there are 2 main types of guides that are installed on the drawer. These are roller and ball systems. There are also other designs: hidden, with closers, telescopic and so on. But they are not installed by hand. Such installation is carried out in the factory.
Roller guides are usually 2 perforated strips for fasteners. Plastic wheels are fixed at the ends of the structures. Thanks to them, the drawers move forward.
Figure 1. Types of guides.
Such systems have a number of significant disadvantages:
- The drawers make an unpleasant sound during operation.
- Wheels are unreliable and quickly become unusable.
- With a strong jerk, the box may fall out of its nest.
But such guides also have advantages. They are cheap and easy to install.
Ball systems are also called full extension guides. This is a telescopic design that allows you to extend the drawer to the full length of the bar. Inside the system are metal balls that provide a smooth and almost silent movement.
The main difference between roller and ball systems is that the first one consists of 2 profiles independent of each other, and the second one is one-piece. In the 1st case, 1 plank is attached directly to the drawer wall, and the 2nd to the furniture. The rollers are disassembled only during installation. And when assembled, they look like a one-piece structure. It is this feature of them that ensures the reliability of the fasteners: the storage space does not fall out even with a strong jerk. The appearance of different guides is shown in Fig.1.
At the moment, guides can be found in stores different sizes. This allows you to choose finished structure to interior items of any type and depth. As a rule, roller systems are placed on boxes for which a serious load is not expected. They can be found in linen and clothing cabinets, kitchen modules (for example, for storing cutlery), hallways. Ball-shaped structures are placed on the linen boxes of beds, furniture intended for children's rooms.
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Installation of roller elements
Figure 2. Scheme of mounting roller guides.
Whatever type of drawer fastening you choose, you will need the following tools:
- drill with a thin drill for wood;
- screwdriver with stroke limiter;
- a set of screwdrivers with different tips (flat and Phillips).
Also, don't forget to prepare your measurement tools. You will need a centimeter tape measure or a long ruler and square.
All necessary marks can be made with a simple pencil or colored chalk. The scheme of installation of roller guides is shown in fig. 2.
The process of mounting guide systems on drawers takes place in 3 stages:
- Marking the walls of furniture and storage spaces.
- Installing the strap on the box.
- Installing planks on furniture.
Figure 3. Scheme of the device of ball guides.
If you follow this sequence, you can avoid possible mistakes.
The guide can be installed anywhere. But usually they are mounted strictly in the middle of the wall (this makes it easier to determine the location of the structure on the furniture) or flush with the top or bottom of the box. But roller systems are most often installed on the lower edge.
It is more reasonable not only to mark out places for screwing in self-tapping screws, but also to drill them. This ensures that the screw does not split the wood. You need to determine the location of the fasteners immediately both on the drawer and on the wall of the furniture.
The master should remember that the thickness of this type of guide is 1.25 cm. Accordingly, the width of the box should be 2.5 cm narrower than the internal width of the furniture (both sides are taken into account). Otherwise, the retractable structure will not fit into the housing. For more free play, 1-2 mm is added to this gap.
The length of the screws is chosen based on the wall thickness.
The fastener head must firmly fix the guide, but not rise above the bar. In this case, the sting should not break through the wall through. First, the guides are fixed on the box, and then on the furniture. After that, the storage system is placed in the place intended for it.
Let's move on to the installation of another facade - facades on drawers. Let's analyze this process using the example of a cabinet with a section of three drawers at the bottom.
So, the boxes are assembled and installed, handles are installed on the facades, it remains only to connect them correctly.
In the front panel, it is necessary to pre-drill holes (3 pcs for narrow facades and 4-5 for wide ones).
The main difficulty in this matter is to correctly bring out the facades relative to the box, because their adjustment is very difficult and is achieved only by guides (or it will have to be redone).
Simply attaching the facade, aligning it with the box and holding it in place with one hand, pulling out the box and screwing on the screws is extremely difficult (maybe - I did it, but you should not do it - too difficult). Therefore, I will advise you such a method as "double-sided tape". Any adhesive tape will not work - you need a thick one, that is, on a foam basis.
So, stick strips of adhesive tape on the front wall of the box. (Unfortunately, I did not record the process of installing the lower facade, but I think the rest of the photos compensate for this shortcoming.
Peel off protective film, after which we put spacers on the lower facade (pieces of 2 mm edges or DVPO - 2 and 3 mm, respectively) in order to maintain the same distance between the facades (the lower facade was installed, focusing on the edges of the box with hands).
We install the second facade on the lining in a slope, align it along the edge of the box and press it against the box.
After holding for about 30 seconds, you can carefully pull out the drawer along with the glued facade. The insides of the cabinet open with holes into which we will twist the screws. (You can additionally press the front with an F-clamp to free both hands).
First, we fasten the central screw, then we push the box, check the gaps and the absence of distortions, and if everything is fine, then we twist the rest of the screws. We also fasten the rest of the facades.
Separately, I note that with this method of fixing the boxes are not interchangeable, that is, if you swap even the same boxes, then the necessary gaps are unlikely to remain.
Assembling my first chest of drawers, I ran into the problem of attaching facades to drawers. They did not want to stand in the places assigned to them according to the project, they gave constant distortions when trying to push out for fixing a box with a facade drawn out relative to the edges of the case. I lost seven sweats until I got a more or less acceptable result.
Subsequently, having climbed on the Internet, and having brainstormed on my own, I identified some of the simplest and most acceptable ways to fasten the facades of boxes.
To begin with, it is worth fixing the handle on the facade (after all, after installation, in most cases it will no longer be possible to get close to it. To do this, we measure the distance between the holes on the handle L we transfer it to the facade so that the omitted from the ends of the segment L perpendiculars h and w were equal h1=h2 and w1=w2). We drill 2 holes in diameter slightly larger than the fixing screws.
Separately, it is worth stopping at the screws for the handles. In most cases, sold furniture handles are equipped with slotted screws (upper in the figure). Such screws are inconvenient for installation on drawers because the protruding cap prevents the false wall from fitting snugly to the facade, and when deepened, their length does not allow the handle itself to be tightly screwed to the facade, and the screws have to be shortened by 2-3 mm. Therefore, I recommend going to a hardware store and buying a couple of hundred exactly the same bolts, but with a countersunk head (lower in the picture). They fix the handle without requiring any modifications, except for chamfering the inner edge of the hole.
Having removed the chamfer, we fasten the handle itself. The facade is ready for installation.
Method number one -double sided tape.
As an example, I will give the process of installing facades on drawers in a bathroom cabinet. The facades in this project are overhead, but the top cover overlaps their projection, and the bottom, on the contrary, "hangs" freely. Therefore, the installation of facades must be started from top to bottom.
So, install the top drawer on the rails. First, it is necessary to drill several holes (2-4 pieces) on its front false wall with a diameter slightly less than the diameter of self-tapping screws (26-30 mm screws are used). The holes are also chamfered under the hat.
The gap between the top cover and the front must be 3 mm. It is necessary to lay something 3 mm thick between the parts (I, for example, use a fiberboard sheet). We stick double-sided tape on the front false wall of the box.
Please note that the front false wall must be flush with the edges of the side walls, otherwise, the adhesive tape simply will not stick to the facade - the sidewalls will interfere.
We put a strip of fiberboard between the top cover and the facade, and firmly press the facade to the drawer (you can lay a gasket between the drawer and the back wall of the cabinet to get a stop and avoid the drawer from falling into the case. We firmly press the facade to the drawer (taking care that there is no lateral displacement) for a few seconds, carefully pull out the drawer and twist it into the pre- drilled holes self-tapping screws. During the final fixation, it is desirable to strengthen the adhesive tape with a couple of clamps.
We repeat this manipulation with the rest of the boxes.
Method number two - clamps.
For the second method, you will need 2 F-shaped clamps. In this case, the assembly will go from bottom to top. This technique is great for installing facades on kitchen sets (when the countertop is not installed, it is easy to get close to the drawers from above). The upper jumper (if it interferes) is quite easy to dismantle.
V this example the lower facade recedes from the lower edge of the box by 2 mm, the distance between the facades themselves is 3 mm, and between the table top and the edge of the upper facade - 4 mm.
So let's start with the bottom drawer. Before installing it, we mark with a simple pencil a line that recedes from the bottom edge of the day of the locker 2 mm. We install the box on the rails, after which we apply the already assembled facade (see above), press it lightly with clamps, then bring it out relative to the sides and the drawn marking line. When the facade is leveled, we tighten the clamps harder (do not overdo it so as not to get dents on the facade).
We take out the box and from the inside we drill two holes with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw, chamfer, tighten the screws. We put the box back in place, if for some reason the facade has shifted, then it can be corrected by tapping with a mallet or hammer, and then fix the result with additional screws.
Having finished with the first box, we move on to the next. We put the box on the guides, apply the facade. To maintain a gap of 3 mm, we lay fiberboard between the facades, align it along the side walls and repeat all of the above manipulations.
Difficulties may arise when installing the upper facade. If we are assembling a kitchen, then the jumper can be easily removed, but if the countertop or lid is already screwed on, or you don’t want to bother with removing the jumper, then we can advise the following trick:
We push the penultimate and last drawers a little to a distance of 3-5 cm, install gaskets, align the upper facade with respect to the previous one (with fiberboard gaskets), fix it with screws, slide the drawer in, removing the clamps and check the distortions. If such are found, by tapping with a mallet, we fix them and fix them with additional screws.
Method number three - accurate markup.
This technique requires greater accuracy in marking, but additional devices (clamps, adhesive tape) are not needed. In addition, there are additional requirements for the boxes themselves - they must be even (both diagonals have same sizes), the drawer on the rails must not wobble and must be level with the top cover.
You can start with both the top and bottom drawers. We drill holes for self-tapping screws on the false wall. We measure the dimensions from the edges of the top and side walls to one of the holes (it is advisable to use a carpenter's square for this).
We transfer the same dimensions to reverse side front, subtracting the necessary gaps (the gap between the upper edge of the front and the housing cover is 4 mm - indicated in the diagram h1). We mark a point for the hole on the back wall of the facade, bait it with an awl, drill a shallow blind hole for a self-tapping screw. We fix the facade to the false wall.
The whole point of this technique is to fix the facade with one self-tapping screw. We move the box, we look possible distortions, adjust them, and then fix it with the remaining four screws. Even if the first connection breaks during the adjustment process, the additional three will securely fix the facade on the box.
Method number four - on the bolts to the handles.
In this case, the main fastening of the facade is carried out not on self-tapping screws, but on bolts from the handles. In this case, slotted screws are suitable, but their length should be 36-37 mm). We mark and drill holes for handles on the facade (see above). We apply the facade to the box enclosed in the case, align it along the walls, taking into account the gaps, mark the holes for the screws on the false wall with an awl. The diameter of the holes must be larger than the diameter of the screws, which will allow you to subsequently correct the position of the facade. After the final installation of the correct position, tighten the screws more tightly. If necessary, you can further strengthen the connection with a pair of self-tapping screws.
Method number five - on minifixes
Finally, I would like to consider the most difficult way to hang facades - on. The main advantage of this technique is the saving of laminated chipboard due to the absence of the front false wall of the box. Sidewalls with guides are fixed directly on the facade. In addition to saving, this method is more aesthetic. 
In my opinion, this method of hanging facades is too time-consuming in handicraft furniture production to put it on stream, but in the case of frame facades it is optimal.
The facade itself will also require refinement, except for the handle (which can be mounted on standard slotted screws), it will be necessary to use a router to select a groove 8 mm deep and 4 mm wide under the bottom of the box.
The markup also needs to be pretty thorough. all distortions will have to be corrected only due to the guides, and they allow you to eliminate no more than 2 mm.
Minifixes can be placed both inside the box and outside.
This is the most common type of loop. And since we're talking about renewal kitchen set, consider the option of installing a loop, with a built-in closer.
There is nothing difficult in installing a furniture hinge. But just before installation, you need to have an idea of \u200b\u200bhow this is done so as not to spoil the new facade.
Tools and accessories
So, we need:
- End mill, diameter 35mm
- Drill
- Screwdriver (or Phillips screwdriver)
- Pencil
- Shilo or Kerner
- construction corner
- Self-tapping screws 3.5 * 16, 4 pcs. on a loop
- Furniture hinge + plank
Calculation of the number of hinges per door
With high facades, more than two hinges should be installed. See picture below.
Facade preparation
Vertically the indent from the edge of the facade, depending on its height, is 70 - 150 mm.
The distance from the working side of the facade for a standard hinge is usually 21 - 22 mm 
Drilling slot holes
We make a hole for the hinge using a face mill. Before drilling, you need to make a small indentation with a center punch or an awl. In order to eliminate the offset of the cutter from the center.
The thickness of the facade is 16 - 18 mm. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that the groove is no deeper than 12 mm and that the cut is uniform.
Installing the loop in the groove
We adjust perpendicular to the edge of the facade. Then we mark the marks for the self-tapping screws with a pencil and twist. 
Attaching the front to the body
- Try on the sash to the body and mark the points of future attachment.
- Install strikers (fig. below) using a self-tapping screw 3.5 * 16.
It is most convenient to make a canopy from the top hinge, because. the façade is already fixed. And it will not be difficult for us to fix the facade and the bottom bar.
Hinge adjustment
After we installed the hinges and hung the facades, we need to adjust the gaps so that the doors do not cling to each other.
The design of the hinges with a closer allows you to make adjustments in horizontal, height and depth.
First you need to visually determine the unevenness of the facade in relation to the body and whether the gap is even in relation to the adjacent door.
"Vertical adjustment"
We loosen the hinge screws, align the door and tighten it again. (Fig.1)
"Depth adjustment"
That is, we adjust the gap between the body and the facade. We loosen the eccentric on the shoulder of the loop and adjust it forward - backward, then tighten it back. (Fig.2)
So, the first thing we will do is insert our drawers without facades inside the cabinet. And now a very interesting and rather responsible area of work begins. We need to set and evenly fix the facades on the drawers. In general, when calculating facades, I always make the distance between them 2mm. This is enough to, as they say, "get in size", well, "in which case" there is a small margin for maneuver. Also a convenient moment when installing facades between which there is a gap of 2 mm is that you can simply put it between the upper and lower facades PVC edge, 2mm thick and be sure that the gap is "caught".
However, life is an unpredictable thing, and the life of a furniture maker is generally unpredictable chaos, depending on many external factors. Well, let's say you calculated all the gaps between the facades at the rate of 2 mm. And the sawyer Vasya took it, and he missed a bit, and made your facades 1 mm lower. As a result, at each joint you have a lack of 1mm of the height of the facade. Well, the lower facade you may already end up not very beautifully.
Therefore, no matter what, before you start installing facades, you need to carefully measure everything and make sure that you have a gap of 2 mm at the time of installing the facades - this is exactly the gap that you need. If the sawyer Vasya did “demolish” 1mm, then, probably, you need to make a gap between the facades of 3mm or take a baseball bat and go to Vasily’s house, well, invite him to play baseball or otherwise agree with him that he redid the façade. Although, as for me, 3mm is not critical. The main thing is that everything should be beautiful, even and organic.
So, you measured everything, determined that your distance between the facades will be 2.7 mm. How to do it? Yes, very simple. We measure inner space for facades. Ours is 500mm. Then we measure the height of all facades. In our case, the total height of all facades is: 164mm*3=492mm. We have a difference: 8mm. We have three joints. It turns out that each joint accounts for 2.7 mm. It turns out that simply putting a 2mm edge will no longer work, but we can still take it as a guideline.
How to attach fronts to drawers
Now we need to expose (adjust) facades. But first, we need to figure out exactly how we will attach these facades to the drawer. The most popular and common method of fastening facades is fixing them with 3-4 screws 3.5x30mm in size. Or as the furniture makers say: "Put on thirty." Which in translation means: "Fix with screws 30mm long." Why "Thirty"? Well, it's simple here too. Chipboard thickness is 16mm. "Thirty" passes through the front wall - we already have 16mm and crashes into the facade, which has the same thickness, well, it stops 2mm from it front side. As a result, we have a rigid fixation of the facade, as well as an aesthetic appearance products. However, I want to warn you that the facades are different. For example, facades made of milled MDF panels do not have a thickness of 16mm over their entire area. Here you need to carefully calculate the attachment points of the facades and make sure that it is in these places that your screw will not fall on the thin area of \u200b\u200bthe facade and will not come out from its front side. Well, if your drawer fronts have a uniform thickness over the entire area, then don’t bother too much with the calculation of the front fixation point. For, wherever you screw them, anyway, you do not have the risk of spoiling the facade by scrolling through it with a screw.
In general, having decided on the places for drilling holes for the "thirty", we take a drill in our hands, load a drill with a diameter of 2 mm into it and drill it in the front wall of the drawer through holes for self-tapping screws 3.5x30mm. Then we take a screwdriver and screw in the screws so that their tips do not stick out from behind the front wall, and do not interfere with further steps to install the drawer fronts.
We proceed to the installation of the facades of drawers.
There are many ways to install drawer fronts. Furniture makers came up with them not because they have nothing else to do, but because there are situations when something is not available in production, and then you have to be sophisticated with the solution of a particular problem. After all, it still needs to be done. I will tell you about the most simple and convenient way drawer front installation. After all, you have nowhere to rush, and if you don’t have something in stock, you can always safely go to the market or to a hardware store and buy it. After all, quality is the most important thing for us. Right?
So, for a normal comfortable installation of drawer fronts, you will need double-sided tape. It is desirable to be thinner, because it will become a kind of layer between the front wall of the box and the installed facade. In general, take tape, measure two pieces no longer than the length of the front wall of the drawer, and stick these two pieces from the top and bottom outer side front wall of the box. Next, take your facade, aim and stick it to the double-sided tape, thereby fixing it on the front wall of the box. Next, glue all the other drawer fronts in the same way.
After making sure that everything is in order with you, that the facades are set evenly and beautifully, you can start screwing them onto the screws. To do this, press the facade tightly against the front wall of the drawer, and use a screwdriver to screw the "thirty" to the end, thereby finally fixing our drawer facade.
Alternatively, you can carefully pre-drill holes in the facade using a 2mm drill bit. To do this, we unscrew the thirty from the front walls of the box and, again, pressing the facade against the front wall of the box, we drill shallow holes in it from the back side through the already drilled holes in the front wall of the box. So you make it easier for yourself to fix the facade with a screw.
Well, the facades are screwed on. Left .
