How to remove lilac from the grave. Getting rid of lilac root shoots: how to solve the problem forever

Almost on any personal plot there are trees. Sooner or later the time comes when they cease to produce a crop and must be disposed of. Cutting down a trunk is not at all difficult, but not everyone knows how to quickly uproot a stump without effort and spend a lot of energy in an unsuccessful struggle.

There are various methods for uprooting a stump without effort, and each of them has its own advantages, as it is selected individually, depending on the location of the stump itself on the site. Let's learn more about these methods.

The use of heavy equipment

As experience shows, quickly uprooting a stump without making any effort is possible only by using mechanical assistants. It should be noted right away that this method is the most expensive, because an hour of operation of such equipment is very expensive.

But the goal will be justified if there is a huge stump of large diameter on the site, which is simply unrealistic to deal with manually.

As a rule, the stump is first dug around the circumference in order to pass a steel cable under its roots. After it is securely fastened, the caterpillar tractor, with a little effort, pulls the stump out of the ground along with the thick branches of the roots. If you cut down a tree high, then you can simply wrap a high stump without excavation.

In addition to the tractor, a bulldozer or excavator can be used, which can pick up a stump in the area of \u200b\u200bthe roots with a bucket and completely uproot it in just five minutes.

But, in this way, stumps can be uprooted in that area where it is possible to turn around this large-sized equipment, but in already cultivated areas, this is often impossible. Therefore, heavy artillery is used at the site planning stage, when there are no fences and long-term plantings in the garden and garden.

A completely different matter is a small cutter or stump grinder, which has dimensions no larger than a lawn mower. With the help of such manual equipment, the stump and adjacent roots are easily crushed into sawdust to a depth of 30 centimeters.

manual method

Swinging a sledgehammer and wielding a crowbar is a task that not everyone can do. But you can cheat a little if you use a manual winch as an addition. It is installed near the stump, the height of which should be at least a meter, for a better grip. The roots will need to be bare in order to put a wooden wedge under them on the side opposite from the winch. Without much effort, the stump can be pulled out of its place in a couple of hours of work and taken to ennoble the vacated piece of land.

Chemical method of uprooting stumps

When in agriculture chemistry began to be actively used, people learned how best to uproot stumps without physically bothering themselves at all. Although, it should be noted that this one should not count on a quick result. But if there is a year or two in stock, then it is better to use this simple version of uprooting.

In the stump it is necessary to drill as many deep holes as possible with a diameter of about 10mm. It is desirable to do this in the fall, so that during the winter the chemical processes naturally have time to produce the necessary effect on the tissues of the tree. Urea should be filled into these holes.

Thus, until next autumn, the wood will be completely destroyed and only a pile of dust will remain in place of the stump. Salt has a similar effect, which also destroys the stump, but it can only be used where development is planned, since excess salt in the soil leads to a sharp decrease in soil fertility.

But ammonium nitrate, which is also poured into drilled holes, has a slightly different effect. It is absorbed under the influence of moisture into the tissues of the tree, making them more combustible. Having saturated the stump with such a solution, you can burn it very quickly, obtaining an excellent fertile area.

Those who do not know how to properly uproot a stump on their own can be advised to contact a specialized service that cuts trees and uproots stumps. These organizations have specialized equipment and extensive experience, so they can easily save the site from such a problem as an old stump.

White mold in the cellar - how to get rid of it?

White mold in the cellar can be removed by most different ways, but there is no reason to reveal its appearance, then it will form on the walls and ceiling constantly. Therefore, it is necessary to provide the room with high-quality waterproofing and ventilation.

Dampness in the cellar - how to get rid of it?

You can get rid of dampness in the cellar in a variety of ways, but first you need to determine the cause of its occurrence. Often you can’t do without good waterproofing of walls and floors, which means a lot of work lies ahead. There are also folk methods struggle.

Forced ventilation in the cellar

The cellar is necessary for any gardener, because it will allow you to save the crop in the winter season. In order for it to function properly, it is necessary to take care of the ventilation system. In this case, it happens that you need to install forced ventilation, which is described in this article.

What temperature should be in the cellar?

The presence of a cellar is a great opportunity for long-term storage of all kinds of products.

However, you need to be sure that the temperature and humidity in the cellar are within normal limits. Otherwise, the products will either freeze slightly, or, on the contrary, deteriorate from overheating.

Reproduction of lilac by rhizome shoots

Own-rooted varieties of common lilac from the age of four and five begin to produce shoots. Not all varieties are able to develop a lot of shoots. There are also those who give it little or almost none. Especially a lot of shoots appear, starting from the age of five to ten, in bushes growing on deep, fertile, well-drained and warm soils. The shoot inherits all the characteristics of the variety, it can be successfully used for reproduction. In small gardens, it is grown up to two or three years, without separating it from the mother plant, then at the end of summer - the beginning of autumn, it is transplanted to a permanent place.

The first time the lilac shoots are separated in early June when it reaches 5-7 cm in height, when the shoots have not yet turned brown. Before separation, the soil on the uterine plot is abundantly watered. The roots of the overgrown are very tender, quickly wither, so you need to separate it in cloudy weather or in the morning and evening hours, as it is planted.

When digging, the roots should be 3-5 cm long. The plants are placed in a pick box, the bottom of which is sprinkled with wet moss, peat or sand, and sprayed. Then planted in a cold greenhouse. The density of planting in a row and between rows is 5-7 cm.

The first week after planting, lilac plants are kept under a film and sprayed twice a day.

During this time, they develop young roots. Then the shelter is removed and watered as needed. In the nursery, it is better to grow the shoots in two growing seasons. In the second year, at the end of summer - the beginning of autumn, seedlings are transplanted to grow into a school of shrubs for two years.

The second time the lilac shoots are separated in late August - early September, in more southern zones - later. Its height at this time is 15 cm or more, and the shoots are somewhat woody. The roots when digging may not be very long, but rather well branched. According to the degree of development, the shoots are sorted into two varieties. The first includes stronger plants. They are planted for two or three years in the school of shrubs for growing, after which they are sold as standard seedlings. The second grade shoots are dived onto the ridges, where they are grown for one or two years, and then transplanted for two years into the school of shrubs.

When caring for lilac mother plants, special attention should be paid to the timely thinning of the bushes, the removal of old and diseased branches; faded panicles are cut if seed collection is not expected. The soil of the near-stem circles is sufficiently fertilized, moderately moistened and mulched.

Lilac bushes grown from shoots enter a period of mass flowering at the age of five to seven years, that is, about two years later than with those propagation methods when shoots are taken from already flowering branches. However, the late start of flowering seedlings of coppice origin more than pays off with their longevity.

The degree of development of shoots in own-rooted plants of different varieties of lilacs has been little studied. It is known that many shoots are formed in such varieties as Buffon, Madame Casimir Perrier, Captain Balte, Condorcet, Reaumur, Furst Bülow.

Lilac. How to fight? Help Wanted!

Good time of the day everyone!
Yesterday my husband and I tried to deal with lilacs in the garden.

It was necessary to withdraw 3 large lilac bushes from the summer cottage with minimal losses for the garden and for our forces.
Our bushes are sooooo old, withered already in the middle, and along the edge of the bush there is a lot of young growth and this growth stretches almost 3 meters from the bushes.
Yesterday they tried to lime one of the bushes. First, the young growth was dug around the edges, then they broke out the branches from the middle, and then they made a fire in the place of the former bush and burned it out. The effect, of course, is not very good, but at least for a couple of weeks this will stop our lilacs from active reproduction. There are a few young cuts left to use the new methods.
The question is the following: How to lime the roots? And how to remove lilac bushes from under an apple tree. One sits right up close, so far we are afraid to touch it.
Uprooting with hands and feet - I'm afraid my husband won't have enough for this. He tried to lime one bush for 4 hours, then we did not solve the issue with the roots.
I read on the internet about herbicides, such as ROUNDUP, TORNADO, HURRICANE, etc.

But scary for an apple tree.
Who will advise.

These are the bushes we have along the fence. part of the cherry weed was removed, lilacs remained “for dessert”.

Fruits of men's labors.

First, cut down everything. And it’s even easier to mow small branches with a trimmer. Good trimmers take branches up to 3 cm. That is, in five minutes the husband will mow everything that is needed and unnecessary. Only instead of fishing line, you need to put knives. And then let him take an ax, which is not a pity, and cut all the branches right in the ground. The apple tree will not suffer. If new ones come out over the summer, let them cut them again. You can then dig this place several times with a cultivator without going too deep. Then dig it with a shovel. I so exhausted the bird cherry bush. And the bush was not like yours. It was five meters high.

Daughter Carlo writes:

Good trimmers take branches up to 3 cm; I need to have such a dead one, only cut grass and only not dry. but I still can’t afford a more powerful one, I also dream

Ask your neighbors. Someone in the village puts hayfields with such a thing. Or ask if there are knives for your dead one too.

there are no knives on my dead one)))) his motor will not stand it, I thought to independently come up with something like that and ask. and it is not necessary! pay and you will be mowed down

Well then, ax in your hands and cut down everything right in the ground.

noooo! everything is fine with me with lilac!))))) I’m not going to cut it down, on the contrary, I want to plant it along the back boundary of the plot instead of a fence, this is the author of the post, the lilac has grown)))))

Maybe you will find something useful for yourself here?
http://www.asienda.ru/post/1428/
Cutting down, as I understand it, is not difficult? But to remove the roots.

I read this post, thanks. The trouble is that there is no trunk as such. only branches and roots. (((((Therefore, it was not possible to use this post. (((

Here, for example, the first way, where you need to fill in saltpeter, can help. If you cut everything down, make holes in several stumps and fill it with saltpeter.
Or method number 4, where to pour salt

I also sprayed the bushes and even drained the wild tornado and all the roots were gone without any problems

I have not been able to grow lilacs for years, they are dying in my swamp, and you don’t know how to get rid of them. Probably we are in the north only happy with every flowering stick

I would also be happy to bloom. BUT our junk is not something to bloom. it can't really grow anymore. a rotten stump sits, and a trifle climbs around. husband said LIME. and dot. I wanted to dig her. young man on the fence. but he is totally against it.

Although the lilac looks very nice and smells good.

Here you can clean up.

They began to clean up the lilacs, the old fence began to collapse. It turns out he was on the bushes. Now we need to wait for the repair of the fence.)))

I just started a repair, I wanted to change the wallpaper, I began to tear off the old ones, and the ceiling fell on me), or rather, the wallpaper from the ceiling, it turns out that they held on to the wallpaper on the wall, I also had to make the ceiling.

Encyclopedia of Plants

Stinky basil is part of a family called Ranunculaceae, in Latin the name of this plant is as follows: Thalictrum foetidum L. Description of stinky basil Stinky basil is a perennial herbaceous plant, the height of which will fluctuate between fifteen and sixty-five centimeters.

http://www.asienda.ru

A well-groomed shrub is not only a bright subject landscape design, but also brings delicious fruits.

How beautifully lilac or jasmine blooms in spring and what can be delicious jam from strawberries or black currants. It's almost a taste of childhood. But fruit or ornamental bushes need to be constantly monitored, cut, cleaned and sometimes dug up in order to allow other crops to fully develop. A perfectly reasonable question arises how to remove shrubs correctly, so that next year he does not give new shoots. As with removing trees and stumps, the manual removal method is most often used. It is the most simple, accessible, understandable and cost-effective. In addition, removing shrubs is not such a large-scale event as uprooting fruit trees, For example.

So, let's look at solutions to the problem. different ways to make it easier to navigate when choosing the right one:

How to remove shrubs from the site manually - to begin with, the bush needs to be inspected and assessed the scope of the work in order to determine what kind of cutting tool may come in handy.
If the plant is small, it will be enough hand saw, if the main branches are somewhere with a thickness of thumb hands, it is better to take a chainsaw. First, the largest branches and the crown of the bush are cut off, then with the help of a shovel, you should dig it up and take it out along with the roots. It is imperative to remove all the roots so that next year there is no annoying overgrowth. The process of removing shrubs is greatly facilitated if you first water the rhizome with a good pressure of water from a hose.
How to remove shrubs from the site using a mechanized method? Heavily overgrown areas, where there is a lot of vegetation, are not entirely advisable to clear by hand, and it will take a lot of time. In such a situation, it is best to involve special equipment (tractor) for work or remove the bush with special equipment - a brush cutter. For uprooting, you can use a winch, which makes it much easier to pull large roots out of the ground.

It will be an indispensable assistant on a small suburban area or in the garden, where it is simply impossible for a tractor or excavator to drive. With a large amount of shrub vegetation, do not forget about recycling logging residues and wood debris. You can’t just throw them in the trash, and lighting a fire is not always a safe undertaking. That is why it is worth taking care of cleaning the territory and removing the leftovers in advance.
How to remove a lilac bush in the garden? In most cases of bush harvesting, it will be sufficient to cut down only the visible part of the ground. But some types of bushes give such a plentiful root growth that sooner or later you still have to bring the process to the end. These plants include lilacs. As a result of its vital activity, it gives a lot of lateral roots, which are almost impossible to remove manually. If the bush is quite large, you can uproot the largest roots, and chop the ground around it with a shovel and sprinkle with ordinary edible salt, at the rate of 1 pack per square meter. True, the soil after such an operation will be unsuitable for growing other crops for some time. It is better to use a herbicide (for example, Roundup), which is great for cleaning shrubs. And next year, the territory can be dug up and planted on it with the most “fastidious crops”. Treatment with a chemical preparation is also suitable in the case when you do not know how to remove the roots of shrubs, usually ornamental. This event will not require special physical effort, and the territory will be fully cleaned.

"Treemaker" - a company with vast experience in the fight against unnecessary green spaces. Any process carried out by our specialists takes place in accordance with the schedule and all legal regulations. Waste disposal is also an integral part of our work. If, in order to make a decision, you need to know how much it costs to cut down a bush in your garden, call us, our consultants are always happy to answer all your questions and offer options for a way out of the situation.

"Treemaker" separately provides the following services: cleaning of wood debris from the territory of the customer, purchase and export of firewood of fruit and ordinary tree species from any site.

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With the arrival of warm spring days and the appearance of the first flowers in the garden, a magnificent lilac bush blooms. The riot of magnificent colors and fragrant flowers of the shrub leaves no one indifferent. Almost every gardener has acquired this lush and fragrant shrub in his country house.

But there is one big drawback in the appearance of lilacs in the garden. It refers to those types of shrubs and trees that, for whatever reason, sprout. This growth begins to interfere not only with the mother bush, but also with the surrounding plants.

Many gardeners are struggling in search of an answer to the question: how to get rid of lilac overgrowth on the site?

Why there is an overgrowth

There are a number of reasons why a lilac bush sprouts, and in order to get rid of new shoots, you should understand what the problem is.

Unsuccessful planting site

The shrub gives shoots if he is not comfortable or he is sick. Thus, he tries to rejuvenate himself in the event of the death of the mother bush.

Insufficient deepening of the root system

Incorrect planting of a seedling initially, that is, the roots are planted at an insufficient depth. Lilac roots, being on top, suffer from drying out of the soil surface, and if this is the only problem, the root should be deepened. To do this, increase the layer of earth around the bush itself.

Different types of shrub damage

Even minor damage to the integrity of the bark of a lilac bush can lead to the germination of new shoots. If the wood is damaged in the trunk, a skew in the supply of nutrients is formed, and the roots begin to rejuvenate the mother bush. Before you remove the lilac from the site, or rather the shoots, you should carefully examine the branches. Do not remove too much overgrowth.

If a shrub suffers from a disease, approximately 2-3 years after its onset, cracks and peeling of wood can be observed in the shrub.

This phenomenon is a harbinger of the fact that the bush begins to gradually die off and let out young shoots in order to maintain its appearance.

The fight against the growth of the lilac bush

With coming spring work at their summer cottage, every gardener begins to think about how to bring out lilac shoots. The usual cutting of overgrown with secateurs does not give a positive result. In the ground are the remains of the roots of the overgrowth, which begin to grow with renewed vigor, destroying everything in its path.

By adhering to certain tips, you can significantly reduce the young shoots from the shrub. Do not use a shovel to loosen the soil, but you need to use a rake.

In order to find out how to get rid of lilacs on a personal plot or from its growth, you need to study in more detail two methods of struggle, and choose the most suitable method for yourself. There is mechanical and herbicidal control.

Mechanical

by the most in an efficient way how to get rid of lilac or its shoots is considered mechanical. But do not count on the ease of work. These works must be carried out carefully and with great care.

As soon as the first branches of overgrown lilacs that have not yet grown strong become noticeable, they should be cut as close to the base as possible. Each shoot should be dug up and cut with a small spatula.

If the sprouts are very young, you can just try to gently pull them out with the root. The remaining stumps after cutting down the lilac bush should be uprooted, otherwise new shoots will appear in large numbers.

With the help of the second option, there are high chances of removing the overgrowth forever and getting rid of it from sprouting in the future. With this method of mechanical struggle, the slate should be buried in the ground by about 50 cm.

herbicidal

Herbicide control is considered the most severe. Herbicides must be handled with care. If you do not follow the instructions and caution, you can destroy the lilac bush itself or nearby plants growing.

Each gardener should decide how to remove the lilac or its shoots from his site individually, taking into account all the pros and cons of this or that method.

Photo overgrown lilac

Lilac is the most unpretentious, magnificent and fairly large shrub that almost everyone knows, its aroma cannot be confused with any other aroma. It is hard to imagine a dacha or a country house without lilac bushes, this is the most favorite plant summer residents. For many gardeners, the biggest problem is that this shrub grows very strongly and nothing interferes with it, but here it can interfere with you and your comfort, other cultivated plants. Most summer residents do not know how to get rid of lilacs so as not to fight it endlessly.

And so, you need to make a recess around the bush, all the thickets were drunk at ground level and covered with fresh droppings or manure (about a bucket for each root). Pull off shoots throughout the summer. Another old one good way to get rid of the roots, it is to fill it with saline, 1 kg of salt per 1 sq.m. but this method is dangerous, because soil can be saline. In addition, in the spring, when young shoots appear, treat them with a herbicide, it will help get rid of the lilac forever.

But if the shrub is already large, the shoots are constantly growing, and your hand does not rise to destroy this beautiful plant, then the question will be how to propagate lilacs in your summer cottage. The best time for this spring, it is necessary to dig out young shoots even before the shoots begin to grow. If this moment is missed, then rooting will go worse.

Although in the summer it is possible to successfully transplant lilac branches as soon as the growth of shoots stops and buds form. This usually happens by the middle of summer, in July. When the leaves on the shoot become dark and large, proceed with the transplant. Choose an open and sunny place and immediately consider that the shrub multiplies rapidly, and therefore it is better if you know in advance that in a few years there will be no problem how to get rid of lilacs.

Lilacs are transplanted easily, the main thing is not to make blunders. If you want to learn how to plant lilacs simply and without worries, plant them on time. The best time is from mid-August to the end of September. The plant is at rest, and there is still a lot of time before winter, thanks to which the roots will have time to take root. The leaves on the bushes should not embarrass you, they retain their green freshness until the very frost, but the absence suggests that it is too late to transplant.

By planting at the right time, we simplify post-plant care, it is enough to water well once. Well, what if you can’t plant on time? Then you need to know how to plant lilacs in spring and not kill the plant. First of all, it is necessary to have time before the awakening of the kidneys. In order to help the lilac survive, you will need to remove flower buds (if any), or leave a couple of pieces to determine the variety.

Moreover, they should be watered regularly, especially in dry weather. After each watering, loosen the soil. It also does not hurt to do the treatment with root formation stimulants. If the plant begins to wither, it is advisable to spray it throughout the summer, but if it looks healthy, you should not use the stimulant.

Lilac during flowering is very beautiful and this provokes relatives to plant a sprout of this attractive shrub on the grave. However, flowering does not last very long and then it suddenly becomes clear that there is just a bush on the site, which not only does not decorate it, but also begins to grow aggressively.

At the same time, the impossibility of limiting this process is clarified. root system plants are so strongly developed that it is sometimes not possible to identify and destroy all the processes. And sometimes they grow so much that they even make it difficult to approach the grave. And then the decision comes to remove the lilac from the garden, and then the fight against this, now already, weed begins.

It is not easy to remove the lilac that has turned out to be unnecessary, but it is possible. To do this, you need to use one of the following options:

Cut down the trunks of the bush as it is fashionable closer to the root. The remaining stump and the area around it are periodically watered with a highly concentrated salt solution.
The bush is cut down, and the remaining rhizome is processed using Glyphos or Roundup. This must be done until the bush dies out.
In the cold season, snow is removed from the trunk as much as possible. At severe frost in this way trees are frozen.
Young shoots should be cut near the ground itself. Then this area is covered with either thick cardboard or roofing material. The coating should remain until the onset of spring. During this time, everything that is located under the coating should overheat. In the spring, the site should be carefully dug up and other plants can be planted.
After cutting down the lilac, the ground is shed with a drug called "Roundup" and then they act as described in the previous paragraph. That is, they cover it with dense material and wait a year.
Folk wisdom suggests using an electrolyte used in cars to get rid of lilacs on the grave.
The author's personal experience suggests that if the lilac is cut off and the root is uprooted, trying to trace all the processes, then it is unlikely to appear again. When uprooting, you should dig as deep as possible so that the main root is removed completely without residue.
Dig a hole around the stump of the cut lilac and cover it with fresh bird or cow manure. Throughout the summer, it will be necessary to monitor the appearance of new shoots and pull them off the roots. It is impossible to cut with secateurs, as stems will begin to sprout again from the remaining small stems.

What is this plant

Lilac is called flowering shrub from the department of flowering, class dicotyledonous, order of lucid flowers, olive family, genus lilac.

There are two versions of how the Latin name for lilac originated. The first claims that the Greek word syrinx, which can be translated as a trumpet, served as the root for the formation of the name. It is her that the flowers of the plant resemble. The second says that the name was given in honor of the nymph Syringa - one of the characters in Greek mythology. Among the ancient Slavs, it was customary to call this flower "chenille", which, apparently, was due to the characteristic color of the inflorescences.

Most often it is a shrub with a large number of trunks that grow straight or spreading. Their height can vary from five to seven meters. Sometimes the plant takes the form of a tree.

The branches of the lilac bush are abundantly covered with opposite foliage. She keeps on them until late autumn. Leaves, depending on the variety of lilac, can be:

Simple shape with smooth edges.
ovoid.
Oval shape.
Have an elongated shape with a pointed nose.
Cirrus.
Difficult to dissect.

The color of lilac leaves is dark or light green. They can reach a length of up to twelve centimeters.

Funnel-shaped lilac flowers have four small petals. They form paniculate or racemose inflorescences. One lilac bush during the flowering period can carry up to eighteen thousand pieces. Their colors may vary:

Pink.
Purple.
White.
Purple.
Blue.
Violet.

As a rule, some shade is added to the main color. Lilac flowers have a very delicate and delicate aroma that has a calming effect on a person.

Depending on the shape of the flowers, it is customary to distinguish between lilac varieties with double and simple flowers. And taking into account the colors, violet, pinkish (pink), complex, purple, magenta, lilac, bluish, white are distinguished.

The sorting of lilacs is also influenced by the size of their flowers:

Lilac, which has large flowers - more than twenty-five centimeters.
Lilac, which has medium flowers - from fifteen centimeters to twenty.
Small flower lilac - from five to ten centimeters.

Early lilacs bloom between the last week of April and the first week of May. For medium-blooming lilacs, mid-May is optimal for flowering. In early June, flowers appear on late lilacs.

Not every experienced gardener can fight the root shoots of lilacs. We offer you a method by which it will be possible to prevent the occurrence of unwanted shoots. The method is cardinal, but effective and accessible to everyone.

Before proceeding with the elimination of overgrowth, you need to find out what leads to its occurrence. If the bushes are provided with all the conditions for full development, this phenomenon should not occur. As a rule, overgrowth is caused by the following reasons:

Lack of moisture. If you do not resort to systematic watering of the plant, it will take roots closer to the surface of the earth, to a place where the earth is moistened by precipitation. Against the background of such development of the root system, shoots are formed.
Strong pruning. This one of the most common causes shoot formation. If you remove a large number of branches, the plant will experience a shock, resulting in the release of young shoots.
Physical damage. Mechanical and thermal damage to the plant often leads to the formation of shoots.
Exposed roots and ailments.

Before taking measures to remove the overgrowth, it is advisable to make sure that there are no reasons for its occurrence. If they are not eliminated, the struggle will be meaningless and can continue indefinitely.

Is chemistry effective?

Usage chemicals – effective method overgrowth destruction. However, herbicides are dangerous for all other crops that grow on the site. The product is washed off by precipitation, absorbed by the soil, after which it spreads with groundwater throughout the summer cottage.