Almost all gardeners know that spraying trees in the spring is a useful thing. But what exactly does garden processing give? What pests and diseases can be controlled by spraying? How and when to spray trees in April and May? How to make pest control safe for beneficial insects? In detail - about the spring protection of the garden.

Pest control: where they hibernate and what they eat

There are a great many insect pests - only the apple tree and blackcurrant have more than 200 of them. But you need to fight only those that really cause significant damage. According to the method of feeding and the device of the oral apparatus, pests are divided into two main groups: leaf-sucking and leaf-eating.

TO leaf-sucking include aphids, suckers, bedbugs, thrips, scale insects, whiteflies, and mites that are not insects. These pests pierce the leaf plate or bark and suck out the juice through the puncture. Therefore, they cannot be killed except by contact, the drug must destroy the integument of the body, as a result of which the pests die, or must cause paralysis of the respiratory systems.

But in the arsenal modern means protection, new generation preparations have appeared that penetrate into the cell sap of the plant and become destructive for leaf-sucking pests, but do not accumulate in the plant itself, because after 2-3 weeks they completely decompose into harmless elements.

One of these drugs is the chemical poison "Phosbecid". Plants treated with it should not be eaten for 20 days. But there are also biopreparations "Iskra-bio" ("Agravertin") and "Fitoverm", after processing with which fruits and greens can be eaten after 48 hours.

TO leaf-eating insects include beetles and their larvae, butterfly caterpillars. In addition to insects, there are also mollusks: slugs, snails, crustaceans. All of them feed directly on the leaves, so they are easily poisoned through gastric tract, - it is enough just to moisten the aerial part of the host plant with a poisonous preparation for them.

As a rule, everything sucking insects hibernate on the branches of shrubs and trees located near the kidneys. And these insects are most vulnerable before the start of sap flow, when the average daily temperature is close to zero, because at this moment their chitinous covers begin to break down to allow the larvae to get out of them. There is another point when pests are vulnerable - late fall, because at that time their chitinous covers had not yet strengthened.

The rest winter partly in the forks of branches or in the crevices of the bark, but mostly - under a layer of foliage or in the top layer of soil right under the plantings, and come to the surface only when a green cone of leaves appears, when the scales of the kidneys move apart, that is, after the start of sap flow. Most of these insects first damage these opening young leaves, and then turn into buds at the moment of their advancement (isolation), therefore, they must be fought precisely at these moments.

But in no case should the garden be treated with chemicals at the time of flowering, since at this time beneficial insects come out of the ground. And their destruction can lead to ecological imbalance on the site, because their number is restored much more slowly than the number of insect pests.

There is also a whole group of pests, hibernating inside plants: gall midges, vitreous, bud currant, raspberry fly larvae. They are especially difficult to deal with, since they are practically impossible to reach with the help of chemical means. It remains only to manually collect, cut out the stems of currants and raspberries with gall thickenings, drying stems of blackcurrant and drooping, after which all this must be immediately burned until the pests come out and spread throughout the garden.

First pest control

This is spraying trees and bushes in early spring before the start of sap flow, at the end of March - at the very beginning of April. Larvae and eggs of insects die from contact with the drug. Therefore, it is necessary to very carefully spray the entire tree (the entire bush) along all the branches and the near-stem circle in order to moisten the pests. When processing the garden, at least 10 liters of solution are consumed for an adult tree, for a young one - 5-6 liters, for each bush - at least 1.5-2 liters.

It is best to use a concentrated solution of any mineral fertilizer for spraying, from the following (per 10 liters of water):

500-600 g of nitroammophoska,
or 600-700 g of azophoska,
or 400 g of potassium chloride,
or 500 g of potassium carbonate,
or 600-700 g of urea
or just 1 kg of table salt.

It is necessary to spray well the ends of the branches on which aphid eggs are laid, the skeletal branches, in the forks of which some of the pests hibernate, and the soil in the trunk circles. With such spraying, there is a violation of salt metabolism in the cells of pests, which causes their death.

If such treatment is not done in the spring, then at the very beginning of the sap flow, pest insects will be born from eggs and larvae, but at this time our helpers - beneficial insects that feed on pests - are still sleeping and will come to the surface only during flowering, so protect garden from pests except us no one.

Second garden treatment

If you did not treat the garden in early spring and did not destroy the pest masonry, then a second treatment will be required. It is often recommended to carry out using one of the following drugs: Inta-vir, Decis, Karate, Fury, karbofos or its analogue Fufanon.

The first four drugs are highly toxic, therefore very effective, but at the same time they kill beneficial insects, bees and earthworms, since they decompose for about three weeks and destroy beneficial insects emerging from their shelters. And absolutely they cannot be used from the moment of flowering not only the garden, but also the coltsfoot, since at this time bumblebees appear and worms crawl out.

Karbofos and Fufanon are preferable to these drugs, primarily because they quickly, within 5-7 days, decompose even before the appearance of beneficial insects, but are less effective, therefore, they should not be used with a large number of pests.

All of these drugs destroy pests, getting into their intestines along with food and causing poisoning. Some of the pests will begin to feed at the moment of bud opening (green cone), while the other - at the moment of budding (separation and extension of buds). It is at these moments that you need to have time to process the garden.

At this time, there are already early green crops. When processing the garden, they must be covered with a film.

Instead of the chemicals described above, you can use the same mineral fertilizers, but only their concentration should be 7-10 times lower, otherwise you can cause a severe burn of the opening buds and buds. We can recommend spraying on a green cone with a 0.7% solution of urea - this is 70 g (3 tablespoons) of urea per 10 liters of water.

Spraying with infusions and decoctions of tobacco dust, citrus peels, onion peel or dry tansy, marigold seeds, garlic, coniferous needles are effective.

1. Tobacco dust. To prepare a solution, 400 g of tobacco dust are infused in 10 liters of water for a day, then boiled for half an hour, then cooled and filtered. For spraying, for every 10 liters of water, you need to take 100 g of the solution, adding 40 g of soap to it for better adhesion.
2. Onion peel. Half a bucket of onion peel pour a bucket hot water, cover, insist two days, strain and spray.
3. Dry tansy. 1 kg collected during flowering and dried tansy, pour 10 liters of water and boil over low heat for 15 minutes, cool, strain. For spraying, for every 10 liters of water, take 100 g of solution, add 40 g of soap and spray.
4. Infusion of garlic. Grind 100 g of garlic, pour 10 liters of water for a day, strain and spray.
5. Infusion of coniferous needles. 2.5 kg of needles of any coniferous species pour 10 liters of water, stirring from time to time, leave for a week, strain, add another 20 liters of water and spray.
6. Infusion of citrus peels. Soak 1 kg of citrus peels, pass through a meat grinder, pour 3 liters of water, close tightly and leave for 5 days in the dark, strain, squeeze, bottle, cork. Use as needed, 100 g of solution per 10 liters of water.

Aim to get on the underside of the opened leaves, as pests tend to be there.

It is useful to put trapping belts made of corrugated cardboard on apple and pear trees, into which caterpillars crawl, moving up the trunk. The top edge of the cardboard must be bent like a roof, the caterpillars do not crawl over such an edge. Trapping belts are changed a couple of times a season and burned along with the pests lurking there.

The hunting belt can be made of polyethylene film. The lower edge is tied around the trunk like a skirt, and the upper edge is folded over like an umbrella. Such a belt can not be removed all summer. Pests will not be able to crawl over the bent top edge.

If the trees are not given due attention, even with excellent seedlings and varieties from orchard you can hardly wait for a good harvest. One of the most important care activities is spraying. fruit trees spring.

Timely and well-executed procedure:

• will help to build reliable protection against a mass of dangerous plant diseases;
• prevent pest infestations;
• will create a reserve for future flowering and harvest.

One of the most important events that opens the new summer season is aimed at the destruction of pests that are still hidden from the eyes of the gardener. Many of the worst enemies of fruit trees overwinter and develop inside the bark, in the surface layer of soil under the trees, and even inside the buds.

At what time in the spring will the treatment of fruit trees from pests bring the greatest benefit? To prevent the mass appearance of an army of insects, the first battle with it is carried out when the average daily temperature overcomes the barrier of +5 ° C, and the main snow cover comes down. It is impossible to give exact dates, because much depends on the climatic features of the region and the conditions of a particular year.

Spring processing of fruit trees before bud opening

In most areas middle lane preparation for spraying should begin from mid-March.

What is this preparation? Before proceeding with the spring processing of fruit trees from pests:

• plants are inspected for damaged and dead shoots, cracks and wounds on the bark, grinding of branches and other problems;
• carry out the detected dry shoots;
• they clean the trunks and skeletal branches from lichens and exfoliated bark damaged during the winter;
• under trees and shrubs, they clean up last year's foliage and other debris in order to exclude the reproduction of soil pests and carry out not only pest control of fruit trees in the spring, but also clean the trunk circles under the plantations.

All of these measures are aimed at reducing the risk of spreading infections from dead parts of plants to healthy ones. Therefore, after filing and cleaning all wound surfaces and cuts on shrubs and in spring, using a 1-3% solution of the substance in water. And only then is the incorporation of garden pitch carried out.

How to spray fruit trees in spring?

The choice of drugs for pest and disease control today is so wide that when visiting a store it is difficult to navigate in colored packages. What means are suitable for spraying fruit trees in spring?

The most popular tool among gardeners in Russia can be recognized. Copper sulfate is a fungicide that successfully resists such common diseases of fruit trees and berry bushes as powdery mildew and scab. It can be used in any weather throughout the year.

To make the processing of fruit trees in spring with copper sulphate more effective, they are prepared on its basis. To do this, vitriol is mixed in equal proportions with slaked lime.

The resulting blue liquid not only has the properties of a fungicide, it:

• fights bacterial infections;
• helps to deal with certain types insects.

Spring spraying of fruit trees with iron sulphate is also aimed at combating plant diseases, but at the same time it is used as foliar fertilizing with an iron preparation. As in the case of copper sulfate, two treatments of the garden with iron sulphate are required to achieve a lasting effect.

In early spring, diesel fuel is effectively used to treat trees from pests wintering under the bark. Forming a thin film that does not allow air to pass through, it is deposited on the surface of the bark and does not allow insects to breathe. Usually the effect comes in a few hours. The larvae and eggs deposited in the kidneys and under the bark die without developing into an adult insect.

Spraying fruit trees in spring before and after flowering

The second stage of the attack on diseases and pests is carried out when the plants are preparing to bloom, the buds have already opened, and also at the stage of the appearance of the ovary. At this time, the main emphasis is on the extermination of pests, as well as consolidating the results of the fight against diseases and infections.

How to spray fruit trees in spring in order to harvest a full-fledged healthy crop in summer? Garden processing is carried out in two stages:

• when colored buds are just emerging on the trees;
• when most of the petals fly around, and the first signs of the ovary become visible on the branches.

At this stage, complex insecticides are used in combination with fungicidal agents. In addition, it is worth paying attention to the foliar treatment of trees or urea. chemical drug copes with several tasks at the same time:

• fights most diseases of apple, pear and stone fruits, including all kinds of rot;
• destroys pests at the stage of eggs and pupae;
• is a nitrogen supplement that simulates the growth of green mass.

In large gardens located far beyond the boundaries of residential properties, spring treatment of fruit trees from pests is carried out using the DNOC preparation, which simultaneously acts against ticks, insects and pathogens.

The drug is toxic, so when using it, serious safety measures are needed. The treatment is carried out in very early spring or autumn, when the plants do not show signs of active growth.

Popular in Lately biological products are good for disease prevention. If the tree is already sick or damaged by pests, such remedies, although they are safer for the plants themselves and humans, will not help much, or may not cope with the problem at all.

How is fruit trees sprayed in spring?

How to spray garden plantings? How much solution may be required to irrigate a particular tree?

If you refer to the instructions attached to the chemical plant protection products, there are always the proportions of dilution of the drug, as well as the approximate flow rate of liquid per square meter. But how to be guided by these figures, when the spraying of fruit trees in spring is carried out not only on the ground, but primarily on the crown?

That is why it is extremely important to prepare a high-quality sprayer before the beginning of spring, which allows using a directed jet to moisten the most inaccessible areas of the tree. As a rule, a good apparatus saves chemicals, avoiding waste and providing a powerful fine jet. A video about spraying fruit trees in the spring will help you master the technique of competent selection of drugs and irrigation of plants. Processing can be considered completed when the crown of a tree or shrub is wetted from all sides, the trunk and root area of ​​the soil are processed, where insects can hide and fungal spores hibernate.

Spraying fruit trees in early spring - video

For the successful prosperity and fruiting of the garden, it is required to provide proper care behind every plant. One of the most important steps in caring is processing trees in spring. At this time of the year, you need to carry out several sprays and whitewash the plants to protect the garden from pests and diseases. In this article, we will consider in more detail all the stages of processing, preparations and technology, as well as give a spraying schedule.

If you don’t want to bother too much: spend time and effort caring for plants, use the services of professional gardeners. We offer the following services: spraying of fruit-bearing trees, processing coniferous trees in spring, pruning, fertilizing and other activities to ensure ideal conditions for every bush and tree to live! :)

As soon as the snows melted

The first processing of trees in the spring is carried out even before bud break. With the onset of warm days, gardeners begin to clean up the territory, remove heaters from the stems, and prune. At the same time, the first work was carried out to protect plants from various pests.

The required step is lime treatment of trees in spring. This procedure will protect the stems from sunburn on hot days, and will also serve as a prophylaxis against insects. The fact is that many insects hibernate in the pores of the bark. Before whitewashing, the trunks are cleaned, therefore, the wintering places of insects are destroyed. After cleaning, the bark is carefully covered with lime mortar, which in turn burns out the eggs and pupae. After carrying out this procedure, the chances of survival for insects that overwintered in the bole are equal to zero.

It is considered effective treatment of trees in early spring with diesel fuel. Plantations are evenly sprayed with this substance. Diesel fuel forms an oily film on the surface of plants, thereby blocking access to oxygen for insects. Most of the eggs and pupae die within a few hours after spraying.

Before bud break

The next step in garden care is the processing of fruit trees in the spring before bud break. The procedure is carried out in order to fight against hatching insect larvae. Also, the event is carried out to destroy pathogens of various diseases.

At this time, experienced gardeners are struggling with the following diseases:

• on pome crops - scab, cytosporosis, anthracnose, black cancer;
• on stone fruits - moniliosis, cytosporosis, clasterosporiasis, clasterosporiasis, coccomycosis.

Before and during bud break, trees are treated in spring against pests using special insecticides. For efficiency, they are added to fungicides and the resulting mixture is sprayed, which provides simultaneous protection from both insects and various diseases.

Tree processing in spring video

It is necessary to care for plants not only in the warm season, but also in autumn: after harvesting, it's time to help them survive the winter.

At this time, the insects seek shelter for the winter months and often hide in trees and shrubs. This leads to the fact that in the spring after waking up, the trees are immediately attacked by voracious awakened insects, many of which also carry diseases.

To prevent such troubles, gardeners carry out regular prophylaxis twice a year - in the fall, before the onset of cold weather, and in the spring immediately after warming.

This allows you to save energy and time in the spring to prepare for the new warm season.

Who should be afraid

Depending on the territory and climate, diseases and pests may vary.

Viruses found on fruit trees and shrubs are especially dangerous:

1. Penetrating into the fruit, they can spoil appearance harvest or render it unfit for consumption.
2. Destroying the leaves, they force the trees to grow green again, leaving no strength for the formation of fruits. This leads to poor quality and low yield.

In Russia, on fruit trees, you can most often find:

• fungal diseases: scab, late blight;
• insects that prefer leaves: whites, bears, cocoonworms, wavelets;
• pests that feed on plant sap: different types aphids (for example, affecting only plums or roses), mites, psyllids, sucker;
• beetles that affect the reproductive organs: weevils, tubeworms;
• berry pests: California scale insect, raspberry beetles, stem nematodes, glass case, raspberry gall midge.

Note: despite the abundance of "enemies", they are basically destroyed by the same methods, and therefore there is no need to purchase a dozen chemicals at once - it is worth starting with one substance.

Autumn processing of the garden consists of several stages:

• harvest;
• pruning branches;
• trunk whitewashing;
• spraying branches;
• frost protection.

After passing all the points, the garden will be completely ready for wintering.

Harvesting and pruning

After harvesting, it is necessary to ensure that there are no fruits left on the ground in which rot can start, and all leaves should also be removed. Healthy leftovers can be put on humus.

To do this, you need to dig a hole in the corner of the garden and throw out all the organic parts there. In a few years, they will make excellent humus, which will be used to fertilize the garden.

Gardener's advice: if diseased fruits or damaged leaves were found, it is necessary to burn them away from healthy plants or bury them.

But pruning can only be done in the south, where the temperature does not drop too low, otherwise the bark around the cut may freeze and the branch will die. If the freezing of the garden does not threaten, you need to prune: remove all dry, crooked and infected branches, and then burn them.

Whitewash

Whitening trunks with special compounds allows you to solve several problems at once:

• protects the trunk from ultraviolet radiation in the absence of a crown and shade;
• destroys pests that may try to crawl into the roots;
• regulates heat: thanks to the whitewashing, the barrel does not overheat and does not get cold.

For whitewashing, you can use ready-made preparations, choosing the most optimal ones. They adhere well to the bark, do not wear off. Usually they include an antiseptic, which allows you to further disinfect the surface. The disadvantages of the finished product include their cost.

Consider: if the purchased whitewash is too liquid, you need to add a little PVA glue or garden adhesives to it, but in no case should you use wood glue: it will completely clog the bark and the tree will not be able to breathe.

Also, whitewashing can be done independently. The finished product will be less resistant, but it will be much cheaper.

For this you can use:

• lime solution: 10 liters of water, 3 kg of slaked lime, 300 grams of copper or iron sulfate;
• 2 parts of slaked lime and 1 part of clay with the addition of PVA glue for viscosity;
• a mixture in equal proportions of cowshed and clay.

Instead of copper sulphate, you can use Dichlorvos, BI-58, DNOC, as well as the fungicides Hom and Oxyhom. It is necessary to adhere to the proportions indicated on the package.

spraying

After the trunk and bases of the strongest branches are processed, it is necessary to spray the crown. To do this, use solutions and special sprayers or sprayers.

As a first fit:

1. A solution of vitriol 1% or 2%: it helps in the fight against rot and various pests.
2. 1% Bordeaux liquid: suitable for fighting powdery mildew, rot and scab on apple and pear trees. To prepare it, you will need to combine two mixtures: a solution of vitriol (a kilogram of substance per 50 liters of water) and lime mortar (in the same proportions).
3. A solution of soap and soda ash: used for the prevention of powdery roses on gooseberry and currant bushes. To do this, in 10 liters of water dissolve 50 grams of soda and 40 grams laundry soap- it must be rubbed on a grater.
4. Urea solution (or carbamide): used to prevent attacks by leafworms, aphids, suckers and flower beetles. Apply according to package instructions.
5. Solution mineral fertilizers: 1.5 kg of ammonium sulfate, 0.5 kg of urea and 0.7 kg of saltpeter will be required for 10 liters of water.

It is important: spraying is necessary only in cool weather, otherwise a strong concentration can burn the tree.

Frost protection

The traditional way to protect trees from frost is to tie them up.

Suitable for this:

• spruce branches;
• raspberries;
• reeds;
• sunflower;
• roofing material: it is necessary to put a rag under it so that it does not touch the bark.

Having overlaid the trunk with material, it is tightly tied, trying not to crush the trunk of young plants. good option will wrap the tree over the branches metal mesh and fix it: this will help keep the shape, while not harming the plant. It is necessary to pour earth under the structure so that the mice do not get inside.

If mice or other rodents frequent the area, several traps or poison baits should be placed around the trees. This will keep the bark intact. Immediately after the onset of spring, everything is cleaned.

Preparing a garden for winter is not difficult, but it is necessary for anyone who would like to keep trees and shrubs healthy. Having processed them from pests and diseases in advance, in the spring you can not be afraid of unpleasant surprises.

To do everything right, it is recommended to watch training videos and photos in advance, as well as purchase everything you need. Processing should begin immediately after leaf fall and end before the onset of cold weather. If the autumn is late, the work can be delayed a little.

Watch the video in which the specialist talks in detail about the autumn processing of the garden from pests and diseases: