Do-it-yourself gypsum stucco on the wall. How to make stucco molding from gypsum with your own hands at home

The article discusses one of the most original and time-consuming ways of decorating the walls of an apartment: artistic modeling. It is believed that this phenomenon belongs to past eras, but reality shows that modeling is also used in modern interiors.

Modeling in the interior

Modeling on the wall is considered an original, albeit not a popular option for decorating a home. Despite a considerable number of alternative and artificial products, classical art modeling has not yet lost its relevance.

What is stucco on the walls

Stucco molding and bas-reliefs on the walls are a way to decorate the room in an original way and add general view some charm.

Contrary to numerous misconceptions that stucco is not only expensive, but also complex technological process, in fact, this is affordable way decoration that any patient and imaginative craftsman can handle.

Stucco molding on the walls is patterned, figured and in general artistic decorations that can be made from various materials.

Stucco molding on the walls in the apartment: where to use

Stucco on the walls in a modern apartment can get a lot of ways to use it. First of all, these are, of course, living quarters, where such decoration occupies a vast space on the wall. If desired, it is possible to vary the dimensions and volume of the decoration, as you like. Stucco molding is less common in rooms for other purposes, such as, for example, a kitchen or a bathroom, because in such places practicality plays a more important role than aesthetic qualities.

How to make stucco with your own hands at home

It is quite possible to make stucco on the wall with your own hands even without building skills or art education.

However, before embarking on this process, you will need to prepare. This implies, first of all, the preparation of the surface of the wall, which it is desirable to level, and also in without fail primed and dedusted.

Material selection

To create three-dimensional images on the walls, designed to serve as an original interior decoration, you will need to use any plastic material. Possible options include:

Gypsum.
Plaster.
Clay.
Alabaster.

The choice of material is carried out, first of all, starting from the cost of the material, as well as its characteristics.

Forming a sketch or wireframe

After the wall has been properly processed, and the material for modeling has been prepared, you need to worry about the formation of the sketch. It should be noted that the sketch will be one of highlights in the process under consideration, and it also influences the success of the entire decoration operation.

To create a sketch and a future stencil, you can use thick paper or cardboard.
The required image is drawn, copied or printed on a sheet, and then cut out along the contour.
After that, it must be placed under a film, cellophane or other similar coating. The resulting product will serve as a stencil for future modeling.
Attach the cut-out fragment with the necessary contours to the wall in the right place and, using, for example, a pencil or other similar tool, push the contours of the image into the putty layer.

Plaster molding on the wall

Gypsum is a plastic and flexible material that can be given any shape, it quickly hardens. Before applying, the gypsum is poured with water and thoroughly stirred, after which, armed with a scalpel with a knife and wire with molds, you can start making plaster molding on the wall with your own hands.

drying out

Gypsum is characterized by a tendency to accelerated hardening, so it is not recommended to perform complex parts that require long-term manufacturing. The duration and peculiarity of the drying process also depend on the density of the solution.

Opening varnish

The final finish will require the provision of a protective coating. This is necessary not only to preserve the aesthetic qualities, but also to protect the molding from shedding and destruction. Opening with acrylic varnish is considered one of the the best options in this case.

Examples of stucco in the interior of the room

Stucco molding on the walls in modern apartments can be absolutely diverse. It depends not only on the imagination of the owners or the master, but also on:

area reserved for decoration;
selected materials;
the characteristics of the premises and some other factors.

Flowers

Flowers, vines and plant images often become images used in wall stucco. As a rule, they are simple in execution due to the symmetry of the shapes and the simplicity of the lines.

Animals

The animal world is a less common motif in the images created by stucco, because it does not fit into every room, but to create quality work will require the involvement of a master.

Geometry

Geometric lines, shapes, intricate patterns original way decorate the wall of almost any room. Such patterns are neutral and fit into most interiors, in addition, they are easy to create.

antique figures

They are one of the most difficult images. To create them, you will need not only an experienced craftsman, but also quality materials, good tools and competent preparatory process.

What do-it-yourself stucco molding on the walls is done the fastest

As already mentioned, gypsum is one of the "fastest" materials, despite the fact that it will require some skill. It is easy and quick to apply, requires a minimum of effort and tools, and also quickly hardens.

What to Consider

Depending on the specifics of the planned work, a list of advantages and disadvantages is determined, with which you should first familiarize yourself and make a decision.

Care

Decorative modeling requires regular maintenance, but it is not an easy process. It must be washed with soft detergents containing no abrasives or acids.

Restoration

Restoration of stucco molding is carried out using the same materials that were used to create the pattern, in case of major damage. For smaller and minor defects, gypsum or putty can be used. Individual elements if necessary, cast separately or formed after applying the mixture.

Stucco on the walls is one of the most original and exotic ways to give the interior solidity and originality.

Useful video

Once upon a time, interior decoration with stucco and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is only a matter of labor and patience. Achievements modern technologies allow to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco at home for people who do not have an art education, but are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination. Create bas-reliefs like those in fig. below, quite within the power of a patient and attentive amateur.

New materials

In addition to the traditional material for stucco molding - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco molding can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under the general name "acrylic plasters". How to gain the volume of a bas-relief with building putty compounds can be found in the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Amateurs also use the basic composition of architectural gypsum, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5 by volume. Gypsum and plaster mixture are mixed dry and closed with water, i.e. water is added to the mixture, and not vice versa. Bring to a consistency from dough to yogurt or fat-free kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The density of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

The bas-relief on the wall is made in low relief (top left in the figure) or high relief, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called a high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are molded like a round sculpture (see below). A low bas-relief looks good in any light, except for very dim, and a high relief is more advantageous in diffused light.

In residential areas, most often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed bas-relief technique (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to fashion a bas-relief "Klimt Tree", see for example. video tutorial below:

Video: master class bas-relief “Klimt Tree”

The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all the techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become acquainted with them visually, it will be easier for you to understand what follows and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: at one time, the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition "Tree of Life". Her style is so peculiar that the expression "Klimt's tree" has become winged.

The reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the upper figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut deep), which is technically much more complicated. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs a bright and sharp oblique light, because. the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special type of bas-relief - shadow, at the bottom right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and smallest protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. When changing the direction and angle of incidence of light, the pattern changes, up to a change in facial expression during the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: protrusions and depressions become clogged, and from cleaning they lose their shape. The picture fades, blurs, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in ascending order of technical complexity:

Plastering free, i.e. not initially fixed on the supporting surface, non-removable models;
Plastering non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because. allow you to get acc. high and low relief, without risking the need to redo all the work again in case of failure;
Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more laborious, but also suitable for beginners, because. you can pore over the model as much as you like until it is brought to the ideal. In addition, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast in one mold (mould, mold) made according to the model;
Artistic plaster molding in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires solid skills, but it makes it possible to create large relief panels on the entire wall, with a contour of corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief in 2-4 ways both in place and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of a prefabricated bas-relief - drywall sheet, GKL. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), parts of the overall picture or finished compositions are displayed on separate sheets or their pieces of the desired shape (see figure), and mounted on a leveled wall.

The fastener heads and the joints of the fragments are puttied with the base composition, then they are plastered and rubbed under the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece spoiled by inexperience can be redone without touching the rest. And the bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; it is impossible to fasten a prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, partitions made of PGB, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the supporting base should be stronger than the material of the composition.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require you to acquire some special tools. Not very expensive, but you can not count on the success of work without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once, if you turn it inside out, and the dried residues fly off in the same way. The bas-relief will be stronger and more beautiful, the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the start of setting. The kneading ball reduces the wastage of shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from the ball, because. there are no corners inside. For the same reason, the batch turns out to be more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors in the final artistry of the bas-relief.

Next, you will need spatulas for modeling - palette knives. Set of 6 (pos. 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For the formation of bunches of grapes, scales, etc. still need convex-concave spatulas. Sets with such are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) For a set of 48 items, so lovers often use spoons of different sizes instead (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, you can’t just bring out a low relief with spoons, the bend of the handle interferes. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons of aluminum and other plastic metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle at the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, a concave spatula is obtained.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To get concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter at the scoop itself, twisted and bent back when heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters clean them off old paint from the palette, and the sculptors trim the edges, cut off the burr, induce a fine texture. A palette knife is perfectly replaced by a wide shoe knife.

Next essential tool- a confectionery syringe with nozzles (pos. 3 and 4) and, possibly, a 20 ml medical syringe without a needle. It is highly desirable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (pos. 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are far from being as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, how cakes are decorated, everyone has seen) holding it with 2 hands; hold the tool at the tip with the left.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes different sizes and the same number of round ones, the cheapest ones, made of bull's-ear bristles. It makes no sense to buy expensive squirrel and kolinsky for a bas-relief "steepness for the sake of", they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for drawing. Brushes induce texture (see below) and gypsum small areas of the bas-relief.

Working with the tool and caring for it

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before a set of the next portion of the mixture. Remains and drips on the working body are a guarantee of spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered in parts into water; palette knives with brushes are also placed there. When the tool sours, the remnants of working materials are thoroughly washed off from it. clean water. By the way, a properly cared for confectionery syringe after working on a bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be kept absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technologies

The creation of a bas-relief on the walls in the apartment (or on sheets of plasterboard, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

The base surface is cleaned of the old finish, leveled with an accuracy of at least 2 mm / m, primed and covered with a base composition or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL under the prefabricated bas-relief does not require alignment;
A background texture is applied to the base coat: with a foam or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coat is decorative plaster, texturing and toning is not required;
In one way or another (from the above and described below), a relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, toning is possible similar to that for the base;
If necessary, after complete drying, the relief is painted on top. It is convenient to do surface staining with special paints for gypsum stucco - they are immediately shaded into very thin halftones with a damp sponge. Sharper color transitions will give acrylic paints;
The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in hardware stores). Paints on dried plaster moldings fade, as on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their colors;
After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tone stucco?

From the video above it is clear that you need to form a stucco bas-relief in layers. To tint the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, layers are applied thin, 1-2 mm each. Usually, layers of kneading the density of low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. The batch for each layer is tinted with color (pigment) for gypsum; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree, a brown pigment is taken in ever-decreasing concentration, and for green leaves, as it moves outward, it is added. The next layer is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. The texture with shades can be applied immediately with a brush or then rubbed with sandpaper-zero or, rough on large areas, with a metal brush. For more information about toning plaster moldings, see the next video.

Video: how to cover the bas-relief on the wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create high floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using as a model an inverted and lanolin-lubricated plate or bowl, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The stock solution described above is not used. It is strong, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, tinting is not applied due to excessive material consumption; finished elements are painted.

For gypsum, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural gypsum is prepared. A model (an artificial flower, a napkin) is dipped into it and placed on a board covered with a plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution sets, it is dipped again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.

Flowers for drying are placed each time in the same position. Thus, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glue with acrylic plaster of sour cream density or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering in place

This is perhaps the most affordable way to make, say, a stucco ceiling for a chandelier (see fig.) Without experience. Plastering a model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and plastered with a brush. Gypsum mortar is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, layers will be required up to 10-15 or more.

The main snag here is the material of the model. Usually they are made of polystyrene, penofol, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time, they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but anyway, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown spots that cannot be removed begin to appear on the stucco molding. Therefore, models for plastering in place are best sculpted from salt dough, the same one that is made from Christmas decorations with your own hands. To plaster, stone and other mineral building materials salt dough is glued with acrylic glue or any mounting glue. Stucco molding on non-removable models from salt dough retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, which allows you to get results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic gypsum backcasting procedure is shown step by step on the left in fig., pos. a-e. Model 1 made of gypsum, plasticine, plastic, etc., or an exemplary product that it is desirable to repeat / replicate, is placed on a flat board 2. Now, to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the board is covered with a film.

Then the model is smeared with a thin layer of lanolin. It is undesirable to use medical vaseline, the model may stick to the mold. Gypsum and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is smeared several times, allowing the lanolin to soak for an hour or two, until a solid oily sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough density with a thickness of approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffeners 5. Seized and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with bundles 7 of thin copper wire.

The next step is to coat with 9 thick cement-sand mortar from M150 with a layer up to 5 and a few more cm thick, this already turns out to be a casting mold. Here you need to remember to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After a set time of 3/4 strength with a cement-sand mortar (7-20 days, depending on external conditions), the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, if the shield was covered film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, the inner surface of the mold is cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. Flash is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its inner edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is smeared with lanolin, like a model. The casting mass fills the mold layer by layer. As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyelets with a mustache are inserted into it (top right in the figure), for which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebb lugs can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already sitting tightly in the penultimate one, i.e. when it is quite firm, but still slightly moist. It is unacceptable to test the strength of the fit of the lugs by rocking!

Currently for circulations up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way, they don’t pour from gypsum, the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). The model prepared, as in the previous. In this case, silicone is poured over in layers, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold allows you to obtain castings with shallow recesses, it is elastic and stretchable.

Also, small rounded gypsum parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., up to small fish. In this case, a tray-flask is molded from plasticine, the model is also molded from plasticine. Silicone is poured into the flask all at once; the flask and the model are not smeared with anything. After the silicone hardens, the flask is simply torn off, and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini - reverse casting of gypsum.

…and not vice versa

The mini-gypsum casting already uses a model to be removed; in a sense, the model disappears and for the next batch of castings it needs to be done again. A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting according to an investment model, then it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings from it, but already convex, without cavities. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a plywood box without a bottom 2-3 cm higher than the height of the model and the size is such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a shield covered with foil. Then they put a flask and cover the gap along the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is layer-by-layer doused with silicone, as in the previous. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the flask is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, the plywood bottom is stuffed. The model is smelted with a household hair dryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not give.

modeling

Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve the maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can buy them without signing up for the evening department of an art university or courses. It is enough to practice with plasticine; the technique is the same, only in working with gypsum time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it sets. Technically, gypsum modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

flat

The technique of flat gypsum modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules are like this. First, the material of the thickness of the dough or fatty sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed out, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. Third, the next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the previous one that has set, but is still wet. Fourth, as the layers build up, they switch to a smaller tool. And fifth, in each layer, work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thickest and roughest. In this case, from the denticles of the leaf to its petiole.

About branches

Branches on bas-reliefs are best removed with a confectionery syringe or, very thin, medical. The thickness of the branches is regulated by pressing the piston more and more weakly (pos. 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is induced with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plastered as a non-removable model in place.

Strongly winding branches (pos. 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of sour cream density, laying it out on a shield covered with foil, along the contour, and after drying, sticking it on the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, the cord is laid out immediately, it will dry firmly. To get branches of decreasing thickness, some of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then one is left. If the cord shines through the plaster, the branch is plastered in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted batches. The desired color is obtained by grouting with a zero sandpaper.

sharp ribs

In the pictures with bas-reliefs, you probably saw sharp ribs. They are formed by the folded thumb and forefinger, and the large ones are formed by the fingers bent back of both palms folded. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly shifting/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion along the rib formation. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

Round

The basis of round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living being. Information about skeletons can be obtained from any course in the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is not a discipline of medical, but of art education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to heal, and is designed for listeners who are not disposed to the subtleties and rigors of science.

Figure height approx. from 30-40 cm is molded along the frame as shown in pos. 1 fig. For smaller figures, the frame is simplified (pos. 2), but following the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide the height by 8; 1/8 of its part will be a dimensional module of a harmonious human body, pos. 3.

Frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (pos. 4a and 4b). It is desirable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with fixing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

The base frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together with a winding of thin copper wire, and even better - soldering.
Rolls of a medical bandage are soaked in a liquid, like fat-free kefir, gypsum solution, as for gypsum fractures of limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage starts to peel off badly from the skein, it means that the gypsum began to harden and the rest of the roll went to waste.
After the plastered frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (tinting can be used), adjusted in shape and texture with a tool and sandpaper, and plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. convenient to use thin and small metal mesh. Another option is the branches of the main branches, pasted over with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for home-made high reliefs are molded separately; locally is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface - resp. plane so that the figures can be glued into place.

How to fix bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If for 1 sq. dm. its supporting area accounts for more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm driven into plastic dowels are best suited for this. Attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten. The mass of the bas-relief above the protruding fixing pin should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Superbas-relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need is a piece of drywall with a layer of fresh stock solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. From the edges of the tip of the nail, you need to carefully remove the flash to get the correct 4-sided pyramid.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 5 minutes

Stucco molding in the interior today is not considered something unusual - it is quite common. decorative element, which successfully complements the design of apartments in a classic and neoclassical style, and is also very appropriate in areas such as. But in order not to turn this graceful beauty into something bulky and tasteless, you need to know the secret of the correct selection of elements, which we will now reveal.

Stucco molding from polyurethane: a modern version

In modern interiors, polyurethane stucco has become extremely popular, which, no doubt, has its advantages.

This material is resistant to high humidity, which means it can be used in the interior of a bathroom or kitchen.
Polyurethane decor is easy to maintain, easy to clean, dust does not settle on such stucco molding, it does not absorb odors.
Light weight, greatly simplifies installation. Such stucco molding can be put on industrial glue such as "liquid nails" with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professionals.
Resistance to mechanical stress, high impact resistance. Over time, the stucco does not crumble, does not change its original color, and does not even crack. If desired, it can be artificially aged or simply painted.
Polyurethane stucco molding in the interior is resistant to temperature extremes.

All these properties are relevant for a high-quality product, which does not include Chinese consumer goods. Therefore, when choosing stucco, you should definitely pay attention to the manufacturer.

Of the major disadvantages of polyurethane stucco, the following can be distinguished:

synthetic origin of the material;
combustibility;
surface graininess;
different batches of the same model may differ slightly when docked, so you should try to purchase products from the same batch.

Eternal classic

Polyurethane stucco molding is a trend of modernity, while classic stucco molding in the interior has always been made of gypsum.

For what and why

Stucco molding in the interior can be used for:

Decorations, giving personality to the room.
Hiding communications and service structures (risers, hoods, pipes).

Wall decoration remains the most common area of application for stucco molding. Stucco on the walls is a classic. The next place is the ceiling; in some cases, stucco molding can be used on stairs and cornices.

Decor types

There are many various kinds stucco moldings, some of them are quite popular and can be used in the interior modern houses and apartments, others are more suitable for palaces, villas and luxury hotels.

Molding

Moldings are decorative strips of various widths. This wall decoration is used in the interior to divide the room into zones or to highlight any section of the wall. Also products of this type are used:

to mark boundaries;
selection of inserts;
joint masking;
giving visual volume to the room.

It is worth remembering that when using a gypsum molding, it is better to choose a product no more than 6 cm wide, otherwise it will look bulky and pretentious in the interior.

The molding can be put around the perimeter of the room, a dozen centimeters below the ceiling level. This will give the interior a special zest and a finished look.

Cornice

This is a decor that is located at the junction of the wall and ceiling. Cornices imitating stucco molding can be of any strength and flexibility, various in size, smooth, convex, with or without a pattern. If you choose the right cornice, you can:

visually enlarge or reduce the room;
hide various bumps as well as edges.

A wide cornice or ceiling molding can visually raise the ceiling, and the right tinting will enhance the desired effect. If the room is very small, it is best to abandon the classic white, matching the ceiling, cornice, and make it the same color as the walls.

Floor plinth

It performs almost the same functions as the cornice, only in relation to the floor. When choosing a skirting board, you need to take into account the features of the interior, texture and color. floor covering. Polyurethane plinth with stucco imitation can be painted with your own hands in almost any color shade.

With the help of moldings, cornices, skirting boards, you can not only ennoble the interior, but also hide the wires.

Power socket

One of the most common types of stucco.

Rosettes help hide or disguise the fasteners of chandeliers or ceiling lights.
They have different configurations and shapes, different types ornaments.
You can pick up stucco molding in the form of a socket for any design.

The remaining elements are less popular and rarely used in modern interior. These include:

friezes;
capitals;
brackets;
pilasters.

Unique individuality: do-it-yourself stucco molding

To decorate the room with stucco molding, creating a unique and inimitable interior, an invited professional master can do it. If you want to plunge into the world of fantasy and creativity on your own, then you can do the design and decor with your own hands.

Stages self-manufacturing stucco:

Sketch. You can draw it first, and then make it from plasticine or modify the polyurethane model.
Form making. At home, it is best to make a silicone mold. Liquid silicone and silicone oil are mixed, the resulting composition is applied with a brush with smooth strokes to the model, previously lubricated with a separating composition. After that, the form is strengthened, most often gauze is used for this - it is, as it were, imprinted into silicone. After drying, the procedure is repeated several times, achieving a mold thickness of at least 3 mm. When the last applied layer dries, the mold is removed from the model.
Do-it-yourself gypsum mortar preparation. When working with gypsum, remember that it quickly hardens. The composition of the gypsum mortar is as follows: 10 parts of dry gypsum (powder), 7 parts of water and a little PVA glue diluted with water (it will prevent cracking finished product). The solution mixes quickly, in its consistency should resemble liquid sour cream.

Gypsum decorations will give individuality to interior design. In addition, stucco can be used quite widely, in various styles of room decoration. In the article we will tell you how to make stucco molding from gypsum with your own hands (at home), we will give step-by-step instructions for making.

Shape selection

The variety of gypsum stucco molding today is not limited to the creation of figures of fat-cheeked cupids, graceful lines of flowers and petals, and room cornices. Using this material, you can create an imitation of a fireplace, "grow" a tree on a vertical surface of a wall or on a ceiling. The figure can be classically white or painted in various colors. The choice is determined by the customer's wishes.

First of all, you need to decide on appearance future work of art, its size, location. The best option- making a life-size stencil or drawing a picture on the surface that is planned to be decorated.

The options are endless. The simplest - stars, flowers, snowflakes, letters. You can decorate the room with original three-dimensional paintings - landscapes, still lifes. The "carved" frame will allow you to achieve a complete imitation.

Solution

For casting large gypsum products, the solution is prepared in small portions. A thick solution does not pour well and does not completely fill the form, which has a thin relief.

An adhesive solution can slow down the hardening reaction - gelatinous, mezdrovy. A 25% concentration of "glue water" is recommended. It must be used within one day. In addition, the use of an adhesive solution gives the products strength.

Flat products are ground to a flat surface sprinkled with fine gypsum flour and left there for a day.

Manufacturing

Plaster molding can be made in several ways.

The stencils are used to draw the contours of the future composition. Gypsum mass is applied to the surface, leveled, rubbed. Then everything superfluous is cut off. If necessary, the procedure is repeated. This method is suitable for creating stucco with a fairly simple surface configuration.
A solution is applied to the location of the stucco molding. Then the dried gypsum is processed according to the drawing.
Products of complex configurations are made using molds. They can be made of wood, plastic or concrete. First, the form is liberally smeared with soapy gruel. Then gypsum mortar is poured into it in layers. The maximum layer thickness is 1 cm. The next layer is poured only after the previous one has completely solidified. A well-hardened product is carefully released from the mold.

In addition, you can make a model completely or its fragments from plasticine. This material can change shape an infinite number of times. A plaster solution is applied to the finished plasticine decoration with a brush. Careful lubrication of the recesses is a guarantee of the accuracy of the shape of the future product. Further layers are applied with a spatula only as the previous ones dry.

After an hour, the form is removed from the plasticine model. When creating products of large shapes, it is reinforced with a copper mesh. FROM inside the finished form is covered with a colorless furniture varnish.

When pouring gypsum mortar into the mold, it is necessary to avoid the appearance of air bubbles in it. Light shaking will ensure complete filling of small reliefs. Drying of gypsum products should be carried out at a temperature of at least +16 0 C. After thawing, they are destroyed. You should not try to speed up the drying process with a fan, heaters - the gypsum will warp.

Deficiencies are eliminated with a knife, then the product is polished with fine sandpaper.

White gypsum surface can be painted with water based paint. Before that, it is covered with two layers of primer. With the help of pieces of fabric, sponge, synthetic materials, you can give the stucco molding any texture.

Surface preparation

The installation site of the future product is completely thoroughly cleaned, washed from whitewash. The notch on the back and mating surfaces will help hold the bonding solution more firmly.

Small light parts can be fixed with liquid gypsum.

Large elements are mounted using special fasteners. Holes are drilled in them and in the surface of the wall or ceiling, into which screws are fastened with dowels or wooden inserts. Inside gypsum products are fixed metal hinges. During installation, they are put on the heads of the screws. Lacquer coating will prevent the appearance of rust on the fastener metal.

You can mount metal pins into the wall, then they are pressed into the stucco holes filled with a liquid solution.

Before planning large compositions, it is better to practice by making small figures. You can also make decoration from individual modules.

Video

Yes, using wooden typewriter, you can make a simple plaster molding yourself:

A photo

Gypsum stucco molding has not been inferior to its positions in interior design for many centuries. It is difficult to imagine an exquisite and expensive style without bas-reliefs and plaster sculptures. The origin story goes back to Ancient Greece, where majestic castles were almost completely made of them.

Until the 20th century, gypsum had no analogues, only with the advent of new technologies did polyurethane and foam plastic replace it. The hand-made elements found during archaeological excavations were available only to the pharaohs.

Now the cost is not as high as 5000 years BC, but it does not apply to a number of budget options finishing materials like polyurethane molding.

In what style of interior is gypsum stucco molding acceptable ?!

For the harmonious use of modeling in interior design, it is necessary to carefully consider the style and concept of the room. Exquisite moldings, figurines and picture frames will not suit every room design. Country, Provence or Scandinavian styles generally do not allow such elements in their interior. They will be very provocative in such designs as loft, minimalism and hi-tech.

Modeling in the listed projects will look pretentious and completely tasteless, like the remaining elements of the past decor. But there are many others design solutions, where gypsum elements will come in handy.

Roman style

The Roman style consists almost entirely of stucco, and in this case it is impossible to overdo it. Absolutely everything can have carved details, whether it be a ceiling, walls, cornices, sockets and niches, everything will fit into the image perfectly. The main thing is that the ornament should be suitable and sustained in the same spirit.

Art Deco

Art Deco is the option when a combination that is completely incompatible at first glance is acceptable. Creative execution can include all possible items of chic.

It is not necessary to adhere to any single type of plaster elements; you can combine the classic pattern on vases and niches with modern figurines.

Usually this style is preferred by people with an active lifestyle, who value comfort and luxury in one set.

Empire

Empire is a style in which decorative stucco acquires solidity and key importance. The status of a room in the Empire style is sometimes breathtaking, and the owner of such a room feels like a true pharaoh of modernity.

Gypsum elements here are massive and monumental. Small stucco elements can only add mood.

Rococo

Rococo style implies light and flirty elements. Lush, but at the same time weightless forms give the room a romanticism and a feeling of heavenly stay.

Asymmetry and frilly crimpiness perfectly complement the image of such a design. Great importance is attached to painting elements under gold or patina.

Renaissance and romanticism

Renaissance and romanticism are somewhat similar to each other, as they allow multi-level ceilings and walls with numerous niches. If the Renaissance also needs figurines, then romanticism is distinguished by the ease and individuality of its owner.

Stucco molding from gypsum when decorating the ceiling

When viewing a catalog of photos of gypsum stucco, most of it is devoted to the design of the ceiling. Perhaps this is due to its area in relation to other surfaces in the interior, which allows you to expand your imagination and realize your creative idea in full.

The time has passed when modeling was relevant only in expensive estates, in majestic halls and palaces, now more and more people are leaning towards luxury and classics, introducing it into halls and even bedrooms of apartments.

Gypsum stucco on the ceiling does not always have a classic white look. Increasingly, for diversity and individualization of the room, the technique of painting is used. It is very important to use the correct coloring composition, then beautifully designed stucco molding becomes even more elegant.

Gold remains the most sought-after color; it covers the most convex parts of the bas-relief. Along with this, artistic painting with full-fledged paintings in the chosen style is used. Filling the modeling with beige shades looks very stylish and natural.

Do-it-yourself plaster molding

The variety of choices in stores and decor shops will not leave you indifferent, but sometimes you really want to create something with your own hands, because the result will become a true pride of its owner. Decorative plaster molding is a creative and very exciting business, but laborious and requires certain skills.

Solution preparation:

it is good to grind gypsum to a powder and sift through a sieve;
pour into a container with sufficiently high edges;
gradually pour in water in small portions until the consistency of kefir;
stir with a special nozzle using a drill, this will avoid the formation of unwanted lumps.

Making figures

Any form is suitable for casting elements; for the convenience of extracting the finished sample, it is better to give preference to silicone. They are sold at any hardware store or on numerous sites. The cost is not high, all the more it will be enough to get just a few, because the gypsum quickly hardens.

From the moment of dilution of the composition to its casting into molds, no more than 2-3 minutes can pass, otherwise plasticity and fluidity are lost.

Adding a 25% adhesive solution will give the plaster strength, but drying at a temperature above 16 degrees Celsius will make the element brittle and brittle.

Fill rules:

carefully prepare the form by covering it with a soapy solution (any soap will do);
pour gypsum in layers, thoroughly tamping each previous one;
exclude the formation of cavities during filling;
leave for 1-2 hours until the solution completely solidifies;
remove the element and process with sandpaper to remove roughness;
cover with primer.

Installation of plaster elements is simple. Massive and heavy elements are fastened with self-tapping screws, small and light ones can be put on PVA glue, liquid nails, or even putty can be used.

After the adhesive has completely hardened, the finished decorated element must be coated with universal paint or a special composition for gypsum. Only after that you can start decorative painting.

Stucco molding in the interior can be used as moldings, cornices and decorative frames for paintings or rosettes. With the right style, all these elements will fit perfectly and fit into the overall concept. Regardless of whether these are solid decorative elements or unobtrusive finishes, the interior will receive chic, sophistication and uniqueness.