Last summer, the head of the aviation circle of the Vnukovo House of Culture (Moscow), amateur pilot Andrei Chernikov, demonstrated quite complex aerobatics over the Razdolie airfield in the Vladimir region on a single-seat biplane designed and built by his own hands.
The aircraft does not yet have an airworthiness certificate due to financial and organizational difficulties. However, it was built in accordance with the requirements for aircraft of this type. Today Andrei Alexandrovich presents his aircraft to the readers of our site.
Before proceeding to the description of the design of the aircraft, we will have to tell a little about the history of its creation. And an ultralight aircraft (SLA or ultralight) was created in the aircraft design circle at the Vnukovo Palace of Culture. The guys, as in other similar circles, built various sports models, performed (and not without success) at competitions. Mastering the basics of the theory and practice of creating aircraft, the members of the circle came to the idea of building a real aircraft - albeit a small one, but on which one could take to the skies.
The next step was the selection of the aircraft layout, its layout and design.
The first thing that guided us when choosing a design was its cost. It is clear that what simpler design the cheaper it is. But the main criterion was still reliability, and hence safety. To this end, they chose both a biplane scheme and a power plant with a pusher propeller. With this arrangement, the rotating screw is protected in front by wings with struts and struts, and on the sides by braces. In addition, with such an arrangement of the propeller installation, nothing limits the pilot's view forward, and the engine exhaust from the muffler remains behind. Savings were achieved by using inexpensive and non-deficient, but repeatedly tested materials, components and assemblies.
Frankly speaking, most of the work on the construction of the aircraft, fearing that the first pancake would not come out lumpy, and in order to speed up the process, he performed himself, in his free time from circle duties.
The power structure of the aircraft is a flat truss, assembled mainly from duralumin pipes with a diameter of 60 mm and a wall thickness of 2 mm. Wings, plumage, power plant, fuel tank, dashboard, landing gear, seat and pilot fairing are attached to this farm. The truss pipes are connected to each other by means of lamellar overlays with backing figured radius washers, bolts with self-locking nuts.
In places where struts or braces are connected, the tail boom of the truss is reinforced, bougie are put on it - tubular bushings with brackets.
Wings and plumage. According to its scheme, as already noted, the aircraft is a single-pillar biplane (actually, there are two struts - between the upper and lower half-wings both on the right and on the left side). The posts are V-shaped, the front branch is made of an oval-section duralumin tube, the rear branch is made of a round tube.
1 - fairing with windshield,
2 - upper left noluwing (right - mirrored),
3 - engine,
4 - propeller,
5 - keel brace (cable Ø 1.8), 6 - brace,
7 - cable wiring of the rudder,
9 - rudder,
11 - power set,
12 - spring of the main wheels of the chassis (steel plate);
13 - the main wheel of the chassis,
14 - left lower half-wing (right mirrored);
15 - aircraft control stick;
16 - engine control lever,
17 - front (steered and brake) wheel,
18 - brake mechanism,
19 - front wheel strut,
20 - air pressure receiver,
21 - biplane rack (2 pcs.),
22 - strut of the upper half-wing (2 pcs),
23 - front braces (cable Ø 1.8),
24 - stabilizer and keel strut (D16, pipe Ø 14x1, 2 pcs),
25 - additional biplane rack (2 pcs),
26 - headlight and air navigation light (2 sets),
27 - aileron (2 pcs),
28 - stabilizer,
29 - elevator,
30 - overlay (duralumin s0.5)
The wings, both upper and lower, are single-spar, they have the same biconvex PIIIA profile with a relative thickness of 18%. This profile, developed at TsAGI back in the early 1930s, is still widely used today, as it has high bearing characteristics. Technologically, the wings are divided into left and right detachable parts.
The spar has a channel-shaped section, the shelves are made of pine lath with a section of 10 × 10 mm, and the wall is made of plywood 1 mm thick.
The ribs are assembled from pine slats with a section of 8×4 mm. The assembly of each semi-wing is carried out by stringing ribs on the spar.
(material parts-duralumin):
1 - main beam (pipe Ø 60 × 2),
2 - front brace (pipe Ø 35 × 1.5),
3 - pylon for fastening the upper wing (pipe Ø 60 × 2),
4-central post (pipe Ø 60×2),
5-seat frame (pipe Ø 30×2);
6 - tail boom strut (pipe Ø 35 × 1.5),
7-tail boom (pipe Ø 55×2);
8-long bougie (pipe Ø 60 × 2.5, 2 pcs.);
9-short bougie (pipe Ø 60 × 2.5);
10 - engine mount strut (pipe Ø 16x1, 2 pcs).
Connection of all wooden parts- on epoxy glue. The skin of the bow of the wing is made of 1 mm plywood - together with the spar it forms a closed loop and perceives the torque. The rest of the wing is lined with percale and covered with enamel. By the way, he also glued the percale lining to the wooden elements of the power set.
The upper wing, unlike the lower one, has ailerons and a slightly larger span. The ailerons have the same single-spar design as the wing. Only the ribs are arranged in a zigzag pattern, and the profile is symmetrical.
The upper semi-wings with an installation angle of 4° are mounted on the pylon of the central post without a transverse V. The gap between them is closed with a duralumin plate. Additionally, each upper half-wing is attached to the main beam of the truss with a brace and a cable brace.
1-front wheel (steered, braked, Ø 280, b90, from kart),
2- front wheel strut,
3 - fairing (fiberglass),
4 - air pressure receiver,
5 - dashboard,
6 - aircraft control stick,
7 - windshield;
8 - seat frame,
9- front strut,
10- engine mount strut (duralumin tube Ø 16×1),
11 – pylon for fastening the upper wing,
12 - motor frame,
13- engine Rotax 582, N = 64 l s,
14 - radiator,
15 - screw shaft,
16 - electronic unit,
17 - silencer,
18 - central pillar,
19-battery,
20- fuel tank V = 20 l (aluminum canister),
21 - tail boom,
22 - spring of the main wheels,
23 - main wheel (Ø 280, b90, from the card, 2 pcs),
24-seat,
25 - fastening belts (automobile),
26 - toolbox,
27- engine control lever,
28- brake mechanism.
The lower semi-wings are docked to the main beam of the truss with a transverse V = 4.5°. The installation angle of the lower wing is also 4.5 °.
The horizontal tail (GO) consists of a stabilizer and an elevator.
The vertical tail (VO) includes a keel and a rudder (RN).
1 - engine control lever,
2 - toggle switch for turning on the headlights,
3 - gas station generator 1,
4-generator failure light 2,
5 - generator failure light 1,
6-ignition switch of the 1st circuit,
7 - variometer (indicator of the rate of ascent and descent),
8 - ignition switch of the 2nd circuit,
9 - horizontal speed indicator,
10 - accelerometer,
11 - signal lamp about engine malfunctions,
12 - slip indicator,
13 - a complex device for monitoring the operation of the engine,
14-altimeter,
16 - cigarette lighter socket,
17 - fuel indicator,
18 - power switch,
19 - rudder and front wheel control pedals (2 pcs.),
20 - gas station starter,
21 - gas station generator 2,
22 - toggle switch for turning on the beacon and signal lights,
23-aircraft control stick,
24-button engine start,
25 - toggle switch for turning on instrument lighting,
26 - brake lever.
The power set of the keel and stabilizer is similar to that used in the wings, and for the rudders and elevators - as in the ailerons with a zigzag arrangement of ribs. The profile of all elements of the tail - symmetrical TsAGI-683. Sheathing of the toe is made of millimetric plywood, and behind the spar - linen (percale). The finish is also enamel.
Power point
First, a two-cylinder RMZ-640 engine with a capacity of 32 hp was installed on the aircraft. from the snowmobile "Buran" and a two-blade pushing monoblock propeller with a diameter of 1600 mm with a constant pitch. And with such an installation, the plane flew well and controlled confidently for many years. But one day I found out that a Rotax 582 two-stroke liquid-cooled engine was being sold relatively inexpensively. It turned out that the engine was in a disassembled state: the owners wanted to repair it, but then they could not assemble it. So I bought it "in bulk", and then assembled it, eliminating the malfunctions along the way.
Upper right half-wing (left - mirrored):
1 - spout lining (plywood s1),
2 - spar,
3 - close-fitting of the plane (percale impregnated with enamel),
4 - rib,
5 - aileron control cable fairing (4 pcs),
6 - incomplete rib,
7 - ending,
8 - covering the nose of the aileron (plywood s1),
9 - kronipeyn-hinge aileron (2 pcs),
10 - aileron covering (percale impregnated with enamel),
11 - end rib of the aileron (root - mirrored),
12 - oblique aileron rib,
13- trailing edge of the aileron,
14 - knitsa aileron,
15 - trailing edge of the wing,
16 - wing knitsa,
17 - root rib,
18 - attachment point of the half-wing to the pylon bracket (2 pcs.),
19 - bracket for fastening the inter-wing rack,
20 - "wall" - additional spar,
21-spar aileron,
22 - aileron control rocker,
23 - aileron swing axis (2 pcs.),
24 - visor,
25 - aileron control wiring (cable Ø 1.5, 2 pcs.).
In terms of dimensions, weight, volume of two cylinders, Rotax is approximately the same as the RMZ-640, but its power is almost twice as much (there is even a version that the second engine is not a very successful copy of the first). In addition, Rotax has double-circuit system ignition (two spark plugs per cylinder) and liquid cooling of cylinders Non-deficient fuel - motor gasoline AI-95 mixed with engine oil in a ratio of 50:1.
(unspecified material of item parts - duralumin):
1 - central post (pipe Ø 60×2),
2 - plate for attaching the pylon to the main post (sheet s4, 2 pcs.),
3 - front strut mounting bracket (stainless steel, sheet s2.5),
4 - radius washers,
5 - rocking ailerons,
6- bracket rocking ailerons,
7 - pylon (pipe Ø 60×2),
8 - upper wing console mounting brackets (4 pcs.),
9 - fastening brackets to power elements (M12 bolt, 2 pcs.),
10-fixing plates to power elements (M8 bolt, 3 pcs.).
And if, when replacing engines, it was almost not necessary to redo the attachment points, then the propeller had to be purchased new: with a diameter of 1680 mm, also pushing, but three-bladed, adjustable on the ground pitch. A reduction gear with a gear ratio of 3.47 is linked to the engine and provides the screw with up to 1900 rpm.
With the new propeller installation, the aircraft also acquired higher flight characteristics and became capable of performing rather complex aerobatic maneuvers.
(a - profile. b - rib, c - root rib and ending):
1 - rib nose (pine rail of variable section),
2 - rack spar opening (pine rail 8 × 4, 2 pcs.),
3 - brace (pine rail 8×4),
4 - knit (plywood s1),
5 - the upper bow of the rib (pine rail 8×4),
6 - end bracket (plywood s1),
7 - lower bow (pine rail 8×4),
8 - sidewall (plywood s6),
9 - upper bow (gluing of two pine slats 12 × 6),
10 - spout of the root rib (pine liner with variable section),
11 - lower bow (gluing of two pine slats 12 × 6).
The fuel supply is small - only 20 liters. after all, the aircraft is designed for training near-aerodrome flights, but this fuel is enough for an hour and a half. Fuel is poured into an aluminum canister fixed on the platform behind the driver's seat.
The landing gear of the aircraft is tricycle with a front steerable wheel. Depreciation is carried out by a rubber cord with a diameter of 8 mm, looped over the pendulum cross member. The ends of the cord are connected and fixed on the upper cross bar.
1 - sheathing (plywood s1),
2 - root rib (plywood s6),
3 - rack bracket (stainless steel s2),
4 - bracket boss (plywood, s10),
5 - boss of the half-wing attachment point (plywood s12, 2 pcs),
6 - overlay (duralumin 2, 4 pcs.),
7 - bushing (tube Ø 8 × 0.5, 2 pcs.).
The front wheel is controlled by pedals through a flexible (cable) wiring. The brake mechanism is also mounted on the same wheel, which is actuated by a lever mounted on the aircraft control handle. The rear main support wheels are mounted on a transverse spring made of steel strip.
All wheels are the same, with an outer diameter of 280 mm tires and a width of 90 mm. They were used from the map. The track of the rear wheels is 1150 mm, and the base (the distance between the axles of the front and rear wheels) is 1520 mm.
1 - trimming the nose of the stabilizer (plywood s1),
2 - stabilizer cover (percale),
3 - upholstery of the nose of the elevator,
4-covering the elevator (percale),
5 - front part of the stabilizer rib (plywood s1),
6-spar stabilizer,
7- stabilizer rib,
8 - stabilizer wall,
9 - articulated stabilizer bracket (2 pcs),
10 - hinge axis of the elevator suspension (Zsht),
11-bracket suspension Elevator (2 PCs),
12 - front part of the elevator rib,
13 - rib of the elevator,
14 - rear edge of the elevator.
To protect the tail boom from damage when it touches the ground, a heel is provided.
From the very beginning, the aircraft was conceived without a cockpit - only in this case you can fully feel the flight and feel the car. However, later it was nevertheless equipped with a home-made fiberglass nose cone with a bottom and a transparent visor of a 5 mm plexiglass sheet.
2 - rudder,
3 - rocking chair (D16, sheet sZ),
4 - bracket for attaching the keel to the stabilizer (4 pcs.),
5 - rudder hinge (2 pcs),
6 - eye of the rudder hinge hinge (duralumin, sheet sЗ, 2 pcs),
7 - eye of the rudder hinge (stainless steel sheet s1, 2 pcs),
8 - sleeve (stainless steel, pipe Ø 6 × 0.5, 2 pcs),
9- brace fastening bracket (2 pcs).
The seat is also homemade. Its basis is nylon belts sewn to an inclined frame, which serves as an additional brace of the central pillar. Foam rubber pillow and back are laid on the base, covered with dense fabric - avizent. Seat belts - automobile seat belts.
(details of positions I, 2, 7, 11, 15, 17 are made of steel pipe 20x20x1.5):
1 - fork stand,
2 - the upper cross member of the fork,
3 - rubber band drum (pipe Ø 10 × 1, 2 pcs),
4 - rubber band roller (circle 8. 2 pcs),
5 - bushing of the axis of the support post (pipe Ø 12 × 2, 2 pcs),
6 - shock absorber (rubber cord Ø 8, 4 pcs),
7 - the lower cross member of the fork,
8 - cross member of a two-arm lever (pipe Ø 20 × 2),
9 - bandage (nylon threads),
10 - axle eye (steel sheet s2, 4 pcs),
11 - rack reinforcement (2 pcs),
12 - bolt-eye for fastening control wiring (2 pcs),
13 - emphasis (rubber 2pcs),
14 - stop mount (M4 bolt, 2 pcs),
15 - the upper knee of the two-arm lever (2 pcs),
16 - scarf (steel sheet s2, 4 pcs),
17 - lower knee of the two-arm lever (2 pcs),
18 - wheel axle bushing (2 pcs),
19 - axis of the two-arm lever (roller Ø 8 with washer and cotter pin, 2 sets),
20 - axle bushing with two arms of the lever (2 pcs),
21 - rack axis.
Aircraft control system - cable with intermediate rods from the control stick (RUS), located on the farm in front of the pilot. Engine control - a lever mounted to the left of the pilot. Deflection of the rudder and turning the front wheel on taxiing - pedals. The aircraft is equipped with the necessary instruments that ensure flight in simple meteorological conditions (PMC), control the operation of the engine. All of them are located on the instrument panel in front of the pilot. There are headlights on the upper wing, and navigation lights on the tail. As for the flight characteristics of the aircraft, some of them are shown in the table, while others, such as rate of climb, maximum flight altitude, have not yet been measured.
1 - stand,
2 - main beam,
3 - bougie (D16T, pipe Ø80×10),
4 - rack axis (M10 bolt with castellated nut and washer),
5- top support sleeve (bronze),
6 - lower support sleeve (bronze),
7 - cable Ø 1.8,
9 - pedal,
10 - lever,
11- rocking chair,
12 - axis of the lever and rocking chair,
13 - lever tip,
14-axis of the tip of the lever and thrust,
16 - thunder,
17 - rack earring,
18- bolt-eye,
19-axis thrust,
20- bracket for fastening traction and rocking chairs,
21 - rocking axle,
22-rocking earring,
23 - roller with cotter pin (4 sets),
24 - cable termination.
A significant advantage of the design is the fact that it is collapsible. For transportation (or storage), the aircraft is disassembled into several parts: half-wings, a tail boom are disconnected from the air module, and plumage is disconnected from it. The tail unit is transported on the roof rack of the car, and the rest of the parts - in a two-wheeled trailer for a passenger car, mounted on a special platform. The structure is stored together with the trailer in a conventional car garage, and assembled in field conditions in less than an hour by one person.
Aircraft control scheme (a - rudder, b - elevator, c - ailerons).
From the editor. The editors warn that flights on self-made aircraft are allowed only with the appropriate certificate and pilot's license.
Drawings of a radio-controlled model of a biplane (seaplane) aircraft
Read also: DIY snowmobile: and
Tail booms glued to the ribs of the central section of the wing. Cut off the ailerons from the extreme sections. I glued flexible strips from a film of a computer diskette into the wing in the places where the ailerons were suspended. They will serve as loops (photo 8). The plane of the rear plumage was also reinforced with carbon rods.
Previously, before assembling the model, I tried on the upper wing to the lower one and the details of the tail unit.
Tail booms glued to both wings (both upper and lower). Wings with beams combined with the help of 4 struts. The tail unit was assembled on glue separately. Once the wings were glued together, I attached the tail to them.
I mounted the control servos traditionally. I cut a hole in the foam plastic for the servo drive and glued rectangles from pieces of a ruler with dimensions of approximately 7 × 15 mm, having previously drilled 01 mm holes in them for screws. After waiting for the glue to dry, I screwed the servo machine with the screws that are included in its kit (photo 10).
The blanks for the hinges of the rocking chairs of the drives were cut out with a clerical knife from the ruler. Between the rectangles 5 × 10 mm I inserted a square 5 × 5 mm and glued this package with Moment superglue. I rounded the upper part of the workpiece on the skin, and then drilled a hole in it (photo 11). I glued the finished loop to the aileron (photo 12).
The rod from a carbon strip with a section of 3 × 1 mm, connecting the ailerons of both wings, was fixed in a loop with a piece of a bar (from the same carbon) (photo 13). Then I started adjusting the dimensions of the rods, since the lower and upper wings have different transverse angles. Two rudders were also connected (photo 14).
Since carbon fiber cracks and it is difficult to drill it, the idea arose to make rods from an ordinary Soviet wooden ruler, and to make axles from a paper clip.
The model would have turned out a little heavier, but with an overestimated power-to-weight ratio of the model, such weight gain would have been justified.
Two rudders are also connected by a similar link (photo 15). The struts between the wings and the articulated rods that link the ailerons together are clearly visible in the photograph of the model from the side.
I covered the lower part of the fuselage with yacht varnish and left the entire assembly to dry for a day.
Making thrust biplane hydroplane
The tips for carbon rods were bent from 01 mm steel wire (you can buy such wire in Moscow at the E-Fly store. Of course, you can also make them from a paper clip.
Bent the wire with pliers (photo 16). trying to keep the step height about 5 mm. I bit off the tip with side cutters (photo 17). To the carbon rod (rod 01.5 mm), the tip was screwed with a thread (photo 18). The connection was impregnated with Titanium glue.
First, I installed the thrust on the “boar” of the rudder plane, then put the servo arm on it and then fixed it on the drive axis.
Installing the engine on a model aircraft
The foundation of the engine was a segment of the ruler. To attach the engine flange of the model to it, I was looking for micro screws for a long time, but then I decided to glue it with cyacrine glue (photo 19, 20). I tried to tear off the flange after fastening - it was not possible.
The frame with the “2730” engine mounted in advance looks quite good to itself.
The power unit was put in its place. Photo 21 shows the location of the servos, they control the rudders and elevators.
Making floats
Since it was decided to assemble a seaplane, it was necessary to make floats for it. By the way, they can also serve as skis for takeoff and landing of the model in winter.
I chose the width of the floats at 30 mm, and the height - 40 mm. Picked them up in one go. I glued the patterns to the box. But with the size, it seems, missed. Subsequently, it turned out that the biplane did not want to take off from the fresh loose snow.
Float skis needed to be made wider and longer. The bent skid of the float had to be glued under the load. Floats painted acrylic paint. Then he covered them with two layers of domestic Bor yacht varnish.
I was hoping to just glue the floats to the bottom of the tail booms, but it seemed that such a mount would be unreliable. I had to glue another rib under each float. Now each of them rests in two places: one on the tail boom, and the other on a rib from a single ceiling (photo 22).
The Korona receiver, which has 4 channels in the 35 MHz band, is installed in the fuselage.
The antenna was held under the tail, initially leading under the wing and passing along the tail beam. (photo 23).
The fuselage was originally designed to accommodate an 8,610 mAh battery. But it's good that it turned out to be wider, and larger batteries for 750 mAh and 1000 mAh fell into it by surprise (photo 24). In practice, they did not even need to be additionally fixed.
Control weighing showed that the flight weight of the model (with a battery capacity of 750 mAh and a voltage of 11.4 V) was 340 g.
The flight of the model took place on Saturday, in mid-March. The ice on the pond turned out to be strong and had not yet begun to melt, although the temperature was already above zero - +2 C. The most disturbing thing was that the breeze was at three meters per second. Therefore, in order to carry out a vertical take-off, it was necessary to guess the moment when the wind subsided.
A couple of times before the start, the model filled up with gusts.
I was afraid to lift the hydroplane myself. Mainly because I wanted to objectively evaluate how it flies and whether it is generally suitable for flying. An experienced pilot was needed, able to determine the flight qualities of the model.
The tests were carried out by an experienced modeler and pilot Konstantin Ivanishchev (photo 26). First, he launched from the hand, then - from a well-trodden path, and only then - vertically.
After several test flights on a 750 mAh battery, we changed it to a more capacious (1000 mAh) and heavy one. The centering has improved somewhat, because its center has moved to the edge of the wing in front.
The tests continued until the accident: the float was torn and the nose was torn off.
As in large aviation, the "human factor" played a fatal role.
The damage to the hydroplane was still minor. They were eliminated in a matter of minutes.
In order for the reader to receive an objective conclusion on the results of the flights, I will give an assessment of the tester.
Impressions of this radio-controlled model
Yuri's radio-controlled models are always very unusual. Even the appearance of his new model was unlike any other.
Biplane-Hydroplane turned out just wonderful: he flew confidently.
After I got used to its reaction to control, I began to try taking off and landing on snow.
Despite the looseness of the snow, all the skid floats confidently kept this radio-controlled aircraft model on it. It turned out to be possible and vertical takeoff, which allows you to run the model from any site.
In the air, the hydroplane is stable, a large angle of the transverse "V" of its planes provides controllability only with the help of elevators and rudders.
The motor of the biplane model even has excessive power. In principle, you can perfectly "fly" at a third of its power. If you increase it to two thirds, then the propeller flutter begins, which can be corrected by installing another type of propeller - for example, DD.
The model is so stable in flight and obedient to the rudders that it can be a “desk” for beginner aircraft modellers.
Do-it-yourself radio-controlled seaplane - a detailed photo of the manufacture
Equipment of the radio-controlled model
Homemade aircraft, drawings of machines and a brief description of them built by amateur designers
PHOENIX M-5
A model that is equipped with two Vikhr-25 motors modified for air cooling. The design of the handle and the control scheme of the machine have no analogues in the world. Eminent test pilots did not hide their delight, and even recommended its use on military fighters.
The take-off weight of the machine is two hundred and fifty-five kilograms, and the wing surface area is five point six square meters.
VOLKSPLAN
The model was designed by an amateur American designer, with a pulling screw, which consists of the following units:
Shaft (1), made of duralumin pipe
fuselage spar (2), the material of which is made - pine
hull sheathing (3), made of plywood 3 mm thick
wing spars (4)
arc (5)
tank (6) that holds thirty liters of fuel
frame (7), made of plywood thirty millimeters thick
automobile engine (8), the power of which is sixty horsepower
hood (9), made of fiberglass
spring (10)
technological holes for installing wings (11)
wing braces (12)
his racks (13)
his braces (14)
strut bolt (15)
Specifications:
Takeoff weight is three hundred and forty kilograms
the wing area is nine point twenty-nine tenths of a square meter
speed - one hundred and seventy kilometers per hour
This model passed certification tests and was found fit for use, moreover, it was possible to perform aerobatics and even a “corkscrew” on it.
AGRO-02
Created by Tver designers. The main material used in its manufacture is plywood, canvas, pine and the domestic RMZ-640 engine. The take-off weight of which was two hundred and thirty-five kilograms and the wing area was six point three square meters.
KhAI-40
Designed by students of the Kharkov Aviation Institute. The model has a beam fuselage.
SINGLE-SEAT BI-PLANES
SINGLE BEAM AIRCRAFT
Flying in your own plane is not cheap. Few people can afford to buy a factory light-engine aircraft for their own money. As for used factory aircraft, they also require a number of additional investments from their new owners: despite previous technical revisions, the new owner inevitably faces other people's problems. Fortunately, there is a solution to this problem. Home built aircraft with an EEUA certificate in the experimental category have become increasingly popular at aviation gatherings.
Aside from the extra time it takes to build, the hobbyist-built RV, Sonexes, Velocity, and many others have received well-deserved high marks for low cost, with excellent performance that rivals factory counterparts. But, as is often the case, there is back side homemade: for every finished amateur project, there are a few abandoned ones. So, in order for the project to become successful, it is necessary to take the right steps, have certain knowledge and be able to apply it.
Step 1. Choosing an aircraft model
Perhaps the purpose of the project is the main factor influencing the success of the entire event before the construction starts.
The beginning of an airplane project can be ranked in importance with a marriage proposal, an important deal, and even the choice of a pet. As in all previous cases, here you need to think through all the subtleties before making a final decision.
Most of those who do not reach the finish line burn out because of trifles. The elegance of the Falco aircraft, aerial acrobatics on the Pitts 12 and the mischievous flight on the Glastar: everything can stir up the interest of the future builder to make a decision based only on appearance. The simplicity of this solution can be deceiving. The essence of the right decision is not in external attributes, but in the purpose of construction.
Making the right decision requires completely honest and sincere introspection. Of course, many people dream of flying like Viktor Chmal or Svetlana Kapanina, but is it true or is it? Each person has his own individuality and his own style of piloting, and it is impossible to live on someone else's experience. You can build a plane for air tourism and long cross-country flights, but then you find that a country picnic on a green lawn with friends is closer to you 60 kilometers from the flying club. It is important to resolve all your doubts and sincerely think through the dream of a “home plane”. After all, the main thing is to improve your life and do more of what you really like.
Once you decide on your dream, choosing a plane is not difficult. After choosing an aircraft model, it will be time for an examination. A quick look at the 15 year issue of Modelist-Constructor magazine will have a slightly sobering effect - perhaps because most of the aircraft models offered there have already gone out of fashion. The world of home cockpit builders has its niche in the market, but even with a strong motivation to do business in such a territory, it will not be an easy task from the economic side, because the market is very individualized, and trends follow each other like swimwear fashion. Before you start building, you should preparatory work: analyze the design of the aircraft in detail, call people who have already been involved in this project and review the list of accidents. Starting work on an outdated project, in which parts and assemblies are difficult to obtain, in principle, is an expensive and costly undertaking.
Step 2. Time planning
There are hardly a few people who have managed a project that requires the same attention, effort and time as building an airplane from scratch. This activity is not for amateurs. It requires constant and measured efforts over a long period of time.
In order for there to be fewer delays along the way, and progress on the project does not stand in one place, you can break all the work into many small tasks. Working on each task will not seem so difficult, and success will come gradually as you complete each task. The average builder will need 15 to 20 hours a week to complete a simple aircraft project in a reasonable amount of time.
For passionate builders, most aeronautical projects take two to four years to complete. On average, the construction of an aircraft can take five or even ten years. That is why experienced aircraft builders will never set an exact date for the first flight, despite the constant inquiring glances of friends. As an excuse, you can say "it's not worth it" or "as soon as possible."
Idealists have no place here
Not all builders realize the importance of proper timing. Aircraft building is not a social activity and in fact it can be pretty damn lonely at work. Sociable natures may find this activity more difficult than one might imagine. Therefore, everyone who has devoted himself to this work should find pleasure in working alone.
The next aircraft to be built without mismatches in the holes will be the first ever. Robert Piercing, in his cult novel Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, talks about drilling mistakes. These mistakes can discourage a builder from working on a project for a long time. Such mistakes often accompany aviation projects and if the builder does not have the personal qualities that would push him to cope with such difficulties, the project may be closed.
Perfectionists who strive for perfection in everything should look elsewhere. If all aircraft had to perfectly comply with the laws of aerodynamics, hardly anyone would dare to take off. Perfectionism is often mistaken for a craft, but they are very different things. It doesn't matter how good a thing is: you can always improve something, make it brighter and better. The task is not to make the best aircraft - the task is to make a practical aircraft so that the builder will not be ashamed of him, and he will not be afraid to fly on it.
Step 3. Workshop Equipment
Next important point- construction site. Not everyone can afford to have a workshop like Cessna production hangars. Size, in fact, does not play a decisive role in this case.
Light aircraft are built in basements, trailers, sea containers, village sheds, as well as in adobe huts. In most cases, a two-car garage is sufficient. A single garage can also suffice if you have a dedicated storage area for the wing assemblies.
Most people believe that the best place to build an airplane is in the city airport hangar. In fact, hangars are the least suitable for aviation projects. Most often, hangars are much warmer in summer time year and colder in winter than outside. They are poorly lit everywhere and are rarely near your home.
Regardless of where the aircraft is being assembled, amenities should be considered. An investment in comfort, some semblance of climate control, good lighting and a work desk at a comfortable height, rubber floor mats concrete floor- will more than pay for themselves.
Martin and Claudia Sutter describe their experience of building an RV-6 in the living room: “In Texas, where there is always too much temperature fluctuations, the air conditioning system in the hangar would cost us more than the construction of the aircraft itself. We thought about working in a garage, but as it turned out, our cars couldn't stand exposure to the open sun for long. Therefore, breakfast in the bar, accommodation in the bedroom, and construction in the living room - this is how our work was organized. Amenities include domestic air conditioning, heating and large sliding doors, which allowed the aircraft to roll out. The most important thing was that everything was always at hand"
Step 4. Where can I get money for the plane?
In second place after time is the question of money. How much will it cost to build an aircraft? There is no one-size-fits-all answer here: on average, such projects cost between $50,000 and $65,000, and the actual cost can be much lower or much higher. The construction of an aircraft is like a phased payment of a loan, it is important to correctly assess the entire amount of required resources, both financial and temporary, before the start of the active phase of investment.
The allocation of costs for the project begins with the definition of the tasks that the aircraft will solve. Modern aircraft manufacturers are ready to install anything you can wish for on their products. Home aircraft builders, on the other hand, know exactly what they want. If the aircraft will not fly according to instruments, then there is no need to put equipment for instrument flight on it. No need to fly at night - why put $1,000 runway lights. A constant pitch propeller costs three times less than a constant speed propeller, and in most cases does not lose much to the constant speed propeller in terms of flight efficiency.
The right question is where to get the money from? The rich aunt Praskovya will not leave a will in time to finance the construction, so you will have to postpone your trip to the south, or increase your income.
Van's Air Force website owner Doug Reeves suggests the first approach. His book, Ten Steps to Getting an Airplane, includes shelving a new car purchase, cutting out cable TV, switching to light, healthy foods made from fruits and vegetables, and ditching unlimited phone calls in favor of economy plans. All in all, Doug estimated that taking and following these steps saved him about $570 each month. He conscientiously saved this amount in a piggy bank every month and now flies an RV-6.
Bob Collins, an RV builder, took a different path (not everyone who builds an airplane builds an RV). His work as an editor for public radio provided for him and his family, but it was not enough to buy an airplane. In general, he became "the oldest paperboy." Seven days a week, from two to six in the afternoon, he delivered the local press. This occupation, combined with his usual work, family life and plans for the plane did not leave him much time to sleep, but in the end he became the proud owner of an RV-7A.
Step 5. Where to get smart?
“I have never riveted, boiled, or painted anything, and in general I am not a master of golden hands,” an inexperienced builder may object. Can I even build something as complex as an airplane?
Actually, it's not that difficult. Home built aircraft are ordinary mechanical devices. Mechanical control units, a simple and understandable electrician, almost no hydraulics - everything can be studied and assembled by yourself. A typical aircraft engine, for example, consists of four hoses, three cables, and two wires. Well, if knowledge is not enough, you can always draw the missing gaps from textbooks and manuals.
The technique of aircraft construction is simple and obvious. Riveting can be mastered in one day, welding will take more time, but it's fun and almost for nothing. In everyday life, a lot of things are made of wood, woodworking techniques and tools have been brought to perfection, and everything can be mastered via the Internet and Youtube.
If while studying new information if you are best suited for a structured presentation of the material, then you can take mastery lessons in aircraft construction. Similar events are held by kit kit manufacturers and some private builders.
Comprehensive support needed
If the dream of flying your own plane does not leave you, and enthusiasm overwhelms you to the very top, then support from like-minded pilots will help speed up the work on the project.
- First of all, it is worth enlisting the support of the family. Working hours in the workshop can be long and tiring, including for the rest of your family. Spousal and family support in such cases is essential. Any aircraft projects that get in the way of a relationship are doomed: “He spends all his time on this fucking plane. She nags me all the time about my project,” is it worth starting a project in this state of affairs. Mitch Locke has a simple tactic: “Before I start building a new plane, I go to my wife and ask her for a list of all the benefits that she wants her life to get better while I spend less time on her." And it works: Mitch built seven planes on his own. At the same time, there are many projects that are run by family teams: parents with children, spouses. When teamwork brings people together, assembling an aircraft becomes an additional opportunity to spend time with loved ones.
- Support outside the family circle is also important.
When choosing a solution in favor of a particular project, it is also important to take into account the service support and experience of previous builders. Is it possible to change the thickness of the ribs without compromising the safety of the structure? Can the aircraft model company answer this question? How quickly will the answers come? Is there an aircraft builders forum that can help newbies?
Tips on how to speed up the work on the project - help from professionals and KIT kits
One of the reasons for the growth in the number of home aircraft builders is the emergence of KIT kits. Most aircraft in the past were built from scratch. The builders purchased a set of drawings for the aircraft of their choice (or designed it themselves at their own peril and risk), and then ordered materials for the manufacture of parts and assemblies.
Here are some tips for those who decide to go this route:
- You can use virtual design programs such as X-Plane: Aircraft designer David Rose uses this program to design his models, supplementing it with the Airplane PDQ package (total cost - $198). The cost of the package is low, and the capabilities are at the level of industrial systems for $30,000.
- The design can be designed: To do this, you can study the book by Martin Hollman "Modern Aircraft Design" (Modern Aircraft Design) or Gorbenko K. S. "We build aircraft ourselves."
If you are not ready to make a plane from scratch, then it makes sense to think about buying a KIT kit. A kit maker can provide accurate, ready-to-assemble aircraft parts at a significant cost and material savings compared to building from scratch. Assembly instructions, unlike engineering drawings, can save you countless hours of thinking about how parts fit together. Such time savings will lead to the fact that it will be in your power to assemble more complex and high-tech aircraft. Today's KIT kits cover an astoundingly wide range of models, ranging from wooden and fabric models like the Piper Cub to composite models at prices comparable to the Citation.
Here is a list of kit manufacturers that aircraft manufacturers may find useful:
KIT - sets of Piper Cub PA-18 and its replicas
SKB Vulkan-Avia
ZAO Interavia
KIT - RV aircraft kits
KIT - sets of aircraft C.C.C.P.
Your plane.ru
KIT - Ultra Pup aircraft sets
KIT - sets of aircraft CH-701, as well as Zenith, Zodiac and Bearhawk
Avia-comp company
In order to legalize flights on a home-built aircraft, you will have to go through the procedure for obtaining a certificate of a single copy of the aircraft (EEAS, more details).
The building may not be for everyone. If you like to work with your hands and head, know who to turn to for support, have enough money to buy a pickup truck and have space to store it, you should be able to make your own plane. Of course, this activity is not for everyone, but those who do it consider this experience one of the most exciting and joyful moments in their lives.
useful links
Websites dedicated to the construction of aircraft:
- www.stroimsamolet.ru
- www.reaa.ru
- www.avia-master.ru
- vk.com/club4449615 - VKontakte group with a lot of useful information
- www.avialibrary.com - library of aircraft designers
Building my own homemade plane - a biplane - has been a dream of mine since childhood. However, I was able to implement it not so long ago, although I paved the way to the sky in military aviation, and then - on a hang-glider. Then he built an airplane. But the lack of experience and knowledge in this matter also gave the corresponding result - the plane never took off.
Failure not only discouraged the desire to build aircrafts, but cooled the ardor thoroughly - a lot of time and effort was spent. And to revive this desire helped, in general, the case when it became possible to inexpensively purchase some parts from the decommissioned An-2 aircraft, more popularly known under the name "Corn".
And I bought something just ailerons with trimmers and flaps. But from them it was already possible to make wings for a light biplane aircraft. Well, the wing is almost half a plane! Why did you decide to build a biplane? Yes, because the aileron area for the monoplane was not enough. But for a biplane - it was quite enough, and the An-2 even shortened the wings from the ailerons a little.
Ailerons are only on the lower wing. They are made of twin aileron trimmers of the same An-2 aircraft and are suspended on the wing on conventional piano hinges. To improve the efficiency of aircraft control along the trailing edge of the ailerons, wooden (pine) triangular rails 10 mm high are glued on top and covered with strips of sheathing fabric.
The biplane aircraft was conceived as a training aircraft, and according to the classification it belongs to ultralight devices (ultralights). By design, the homemade biplane is a single-seat single-pillar biplane with a tricycle landing gear with a steerable tail wheel.
I could not pick up any prototype, and therefore I decided to design and build according to the classical scheme and, as motorists say, without additional options, that is, in the simplest version with an open cabin. The upper wing of the Grasshopper is raised above the fuselage (like a parasol) and fixed a little ahead of the cockpit on a support made of duralumin pipes (from An-2 aileron rods) in the form of an inclined pyramid.
The wing is detachable, consists of two consoles, the joint between which is covered with an overlay. Wing set - metal (duralumin), sheathing - linen impregnated with enamel. The tips and root parts of the wing consoles are also sheathed with a thin duralumin sheet. The upper wing consoles are additionally reinforced with struts extending from the attachment points of the inter-wing struts to the lower fuselage spars.
The air pressure receiver is fixed at a distance of 650 mm from the end of the left console of the upper wing. The lower wing consoles are also detachable, attached to the lower fuselage spars (on the sides of the cockpit). The gaps between the root part and the fuselage are covered with linen (impregnated with enamel) fairings, which are attached to the consoles on sticky tapes - burdocks.
The installation angle of the upper wing is 2 degrees, the lower one is 0. The transverse V of the upper wing is 0, and that of the lower wing is 2 degrees. The sweep angle of the upper wing is 4 degrees, and that of the lower wing is 5 degrees.
The lower and upper consoles of each wing are interconnected by racks made, like the struts, of duralumin pipes from the control rods of the An-2 aircraft. The frame of the fuselage of a homemade biplane is truss, welded from steel thin-walled (1.2 mm) pipes with an outer diameter of 18 mm.
Its basis is four spars: two upper and two lower. Along the sides, a pair of spars (one upper and one lower) are connected by an equal number and equally spaced uprights and struts and form two symmetrical trusses.
Pairs of upper and lower spars are connected by crossbars and braces, but their number and location at the top and bottom often do not match. In the same place where the location of the crossbars and racks coincides, they form frames. Forming arcs are welded on top of the front rectangular frames.
The rest (rear) fuselage frames are triangular, isosceles. The frame is covered with unbleached coarse calico, which was then impregnated with home-made "enamel" - celluloid dissolved in acetone. This coating has proven itself among amateur aircraft designers.
The front part of the biplane fuselage (up to the cockpit) on the left side in flight is sheathed with thin plastic panels. Panels - removable - for easy access on the ground to the controls in the cockpit and under the engine. The bottom of the fuselage is made of duralumin sheet 1 mm thick. The tail unit of an aircraft - a biplane - is classic. All its elements are flat.
The frames of the keel, stabilizer, rudders and elevators are welded from thin-walled steel pipes with a diameter of 16 mm. Linen sheathing is sewn to the details of the frames, and the seams are additionally glued with strips of the same calico fabric impregnated with enamel. The stabilizer consists of two halves that are attached to the keel.
To do this, an M10 pin was passed over the fuselage through the keel near the leading edge, and a tubular axle with a diameter of 14 mm was passed at the trailing edge. Lugs with sector grooves are welded to the root rods of the halves of the stabilizer, which serve to set the horizontal tail at the required angle, depending on the mass of the pilot.
Each half is put on a stud with an eyelet and secured with a nut, and the trailing edge tube is attached to the axle and is attracted to the keel with a brace made of steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm. From the editor. To prevent spontaneous rotation of the stabilizer in flight, it is advisable to make several holes for the pin instead of the sector groove in the ears.
Now on the plane - a biplane there is a propeller installation with an engine from the Ufa Motor Plant UMZ 440-02 (the plant completes the Lynx snowmobiles with such motors) with a planetary gear and a two-blade propeller.
431 cm3 engine with 40 hp. with a speed of up to 6000 per minute of air cooling, two-cylinder, two-stroke, with separate lubrication, runs on gasoline, starting with AI-76. Carburetor - K68R Air cooling system - although self-made, but effective.
Made according to the same scheme as the aircraft engines "Walter-Minor": with an air intake in the form of a truncated cone and deflectors on the cylinders. Previously, on an airplane - a biplane, there was a modernized engine from the outboard boat motor "Whirlwind" with a capacity of only 30 hp. and V-belt transmission (gear ratio 2.5). But even with them the plane flew confidently.
But the pulling two-blade monoblock (made of pine plywood) home-made screw with a diameter of 1400 mm and a pitch of 800 mm has not changed yet, although I plan to replace it with a more suitable one. A planetary gearbox with a gear ratio of 2.22 ... the new engine got from some foreign car.
The silencer for the engine is made from a ten-liter cylinder of a foam fire extinguisher. The fuel tank with a capacity of 17 liters is from the tank of the old washing machine- It is made of stainless steel. Installed behind the dashboard. The hood is made of thin sheet duralumin.
It has grilles on the sides for the exit of heated air and on the right there is also a hatch with a cover for the output of the cord with a handle - they start the engine. The propeller unit on a self-made biplane is suspended on a simple motor mount in the form of two consoles with struts, the rear ends of which are fixed on the racks of the front frame-frame of the fuselage frame. The electrical equipment of the aircraft is 12-volt.
The main landing gear legs are welded from sections of a steel pipe with a diameter of 30 mm, and their struts are made from a pipe with a diameter of 22 mm. The shock absorber is a rubber cord wound around the front tubes of the struts and the trapezium of the fuselage frame. The wheels of the main landing gear - non-brake with a diameter of 360 mm - from a mini-mokik, they have reinforced hubs. The rear support has a spring-type shock absorber and a steerable wheel with a diameter of 80 mm (from an aviation ladder).
Aileron and elevator control is rigid, from the aircraft control stick through rods made of duralumin tubes; rudder and tail wheel - cable, from the pedals. The construction of the aircraft was completed in 2004, and pilot E. V. Yakovlev tested it.
Aircraft - biplane passed the technical commission. He made quite long flights in a circle around the airfield. A fuel reserve of 17 liters is enough for about an hour and a half of flight, taking into account the air navigation reserve. Very helpful tips and consultations during the construction of the aircraft were given to me by two Eugenes: Sherstnev and Yakovlev, for which I am very grateful to them.
Homemade biplane "Grasshopper": 1 - propeller (two-blade, monoblock. diameter 1400.1 = 800); 2- muffler; 3 - cockpit fairing; 4- hood; 5 - brace of the upper wing console (2 pcs.); 6- rack (2 pcs.); 7 - pylon of the upper wing; 8- transparent visor; 9 - fuselage; 10-keel; 11 - rudder; 12 - tail support; 13 - tail steering wheel; 14-main landing gear (2 pcs.); 15 - main wheel (2 pcs.); 16 - right console of the upper wing; 17-left upper wing console; 18 - right console of the lower wing; 19-left console of the lower wing; 20-air pressure receiver; 21 - lining of the joint of the consoles of the upper wing; 22 - stabilizer and keel brace (2 pcs.); 23 - engine hood with air intake; 24 - gas baffle shield; 25 - stabilizer (2 pcs.); 26 - elevator (2 pcs.); 27-aileron (2 pcs.)
Steel welded frame of the biplane fuselage: 1 - upper spar (pipe with a diameter of 18x1, 2 pcs.); 2- lower spars (pipe with a diameter of 18x1, 2 pcs.); 3 - aircraft control stick support; 4 - spinal beam (2 pcs.); 5- - quadrangular frame (pipe with a diameter of 18, 3 pcs.); 6- shaping arc of the first and third frames (pipe with a diameter of 18x1, 2 pcs.); 7 - braces and braces (pipe with a diameter of 18x1, according to the drawing); 8- eyelets and lugs for fastening and suspension structural elements(on demand); 9 - trapezium for fastening the rubber cord shock absorber of the main landing gear (pipe with a diameter of 18x1); 10 triangular tail frames (pipe 18x1 x 4)
The angles of installation of the wing consoles (a - upper wing; b-lower wing): 1 - transverse V; 2-swept wings; 3 - installation angle
Motor mount of a homemade biplane: I - spar ( steel pipe 30x30x2.2 pieces); 2-spar extension (pipe with a diameter of 22.2 pieces); 3 - cross member (steel sheet s4); 4 - silent blocks (4 pcs.); 5-eye for fastening the strut (steel sheet s4.2 pcs.); 6 - hood support bow ( steel wire diameter 8); 7 brace (pipe diameter 22, 2 pcs.)
The main landing gear of the biplane: 1 - wheel (diameter 360, from a mini-mokik); 2- wheel hub; .3 - main post (steel pipe with a diameter of 30); 4 - main strut (steel pipe with a diameter of 22); 5 - shock absorber (rubber band with a diameter of 12); 6 - travel limiter of the main rack (cable with a diameter of 3); 7 - shock absorber mounting trapezium (fuselage truss element); 8- farm fuselage; 9 additional landing gear (coarse steel with a diameter of 22); 10- shock absorber grip (pipe with a diameter of 22); 11 - additional strut (steel pipe with a diameter of 22); 12 connection racks (steel pipe diameter 22)
Instrument gloss (below, the rudder and tail wheel control pedals are clearly visible on the trapezium and the rubber hole shock absorber of the main landing gear): 1 - carburetor throttle control knob; 2 - horizontal speed indicator; 3 - variometer; 4 - screw for fastening the dashboard (3 pcs.); 5 - turn and slip indicator; 6-light bulb signaling engine failure; 7 - ignition switch; 8-cylinder head temperature sensor; 9 - rudder control pedals
On the right side of the hood - a window air filter carburetor engines and starting device engine
The UM Z 440-02 engine from the Lynx snowmobile fit well into the contours of the fuselage and provided the aircraft with good flight performance.
