How to lay panel parquet on a wooden floor. How to lay parquet board correctly? Do-it-yourself parquet board laying: technology

The main methods of laying parquet boards

The parquet board is laid either by the floating floor method or by the rigid fastening of the board to the base.

1. floating floor method consists in connecting parquet boards to each other without fixing them to the floor base. The boards are assembled into a single layer, which lies freely on the substrate - a special compensating material located between the base and the parquet floor. This method is the most common, but like any other method, it has its strengths and weaknesses.

Main advantages:

high speed of the assembly process - laying 30 m2 of board takes no more than one day;

cost minimization - the cost of the finished floor consists only of the cost of the board, substrate and parquet work;

fewer requirements for the professionalism of the installer - laying the board can be done even on their own;

the ability to reuse the board - glueless connection allows you to partially or completely disassemble the parquet floor and lay it again.

Main cons:

insufficient reliability - the mobility of the parquet layer over time can lead to deformation of the interlock and a violation of the integrity of the structure;

when restoring parquet, it will be almost impossible to polish its surface with high quality. The lack of a rigid attachment to the base will not allow it to be done evenly over the entire area;

possible discomfort during operation - the movement of the floating floor in a vertical plane under short-term loads leads to the sound of steps characteristic of the floating floor and, over time, to the appearance of a creak.

2. Method of rigid attachment to the base involves gluing each parquet board to a specially prepared subfloor. During the drying of the adhesive composition, the boards are additionally fixed with parquet nails or staples to enhance the strength of the entire structure. This method also has its advantages and disadvantages.

Main advantages:

high reliability of the design - the glued structure of the "parquet pie" will give additional reliability and durability to the floor;

good repairability - the structural integrity of the parquet floor will allow you to repair its surface with high quality;

high level of comfort - the appearance of a creak or a loud sound of steps when walking on the floor is almost completely excluded.

Main cons:

high demands on the professionalism of the installer - the installation of parquet boards by non-professionals will significantly increase the risk of a failed result;

higher cost level - you will need to purchase Additional materials and pay for the services of professional parquet flooring;

time consuming - layer-by-layer installation technology will require much more time than floating floor assembly;

the thickness of the "parquet cake" - an additional layer of plywood will increase the height of the parquet floor.

Preparatory stage of work

Before proceeding to the main stage of work, a number of important preparatory activities should be carried out.

1. Foundation preparation

Substrate requirements for laying boards in a floating way. As a base for a parquet board, old wooden, tile or stone floors, a base made of concrete or self-levelling mixtures, etc. can be used. Textile coverings (carpet, linoleum, carpet) are unsuitable as a base material. Regardless of the type of substrate used, it must be level, dry, solid and clean. The evenness of the base is checked over the entire area of the forthcoming laying, using a rule of at least 2 meters in length. The gap between the base and the rule should not exceed 2-3 mm over a length of 2000 mm. If necessary, the base should be leveled or sanded in accordance with the specified requirements. The moisture content of a concrete or sand-cement base must not exceed 2%. Underfloor heating should be used with extreme caution. The heating temperature of the surface of the base must in no case exceed +27 °C. Fluctuations in floor temperature during the day should remain within 5 °C. It is not recommended to lay parquet boards made of wood species that are especially sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature, such as beech, maple, olive or wenge, on heated floors.

Requirements for the base for laying the board by the method of rigid fastening. As with a floating floor, the base for hardwood flooring must be dry, even, clean and strong. In addition, it should be as suitable as possible for the full surface bonding of parquet and be able to securely hold nails or self-tapping screws inside. Moisture-resistant plywood, comparable in thickness to a parquet board, will serve as an ideal base. Plywood, in turn, must also be securely attached to a wooden or concrete base with glue and self-tapping screws. The surface of the plywood must be sanded, and the plywood itself must be laid in compliance with the technological gap 5 mm wide between the sheets. Attention! The use of "warm floor" systems under such a base is unacceptable.

2. Laying scheme

Before starting work, you need to make a choice laying directions parquet boards in every room. Usually the board is laid in the direction of daylight falling into the room. In rooms with an elongated shape, it is recommended to lay the parquet board in the longitudinal direction (material waste will be 3-5%). In rooms of complex geometric shape, you can lay the board diagonally (material waste will be 7-10%). If an old wooden floor acts as a base, the parquet should be laid across the boards of this floor. Rooms with different laying directions must be separated by expansion joints, which are then closed with overhead thresholds.

3. Preparation of materials and tools for work

The minimum set of tools. To lay the parquet board, you will need the following tools: a saw with a thin blade, a hammer, a sharp knife, a marking square, a drill, a chisel, a tape measure, a pencil, a wooden or plastic pick (at least 30 cm long with straight edges), wooden wedges, a spatula and mounting foot.

Preparation for the work of the board and related materials. Before proceeding directly to work, prepare the parquet board for laying. Unopened packages with parquet boards are recommended to be kept in the room where laying is to take place for at least 3-5 days in order to better adapt the board to the microclimate of the room. Parquet packs should be opened only in the course of work. Before laying the boards, you need to make sure that they do not have defects. If a damaged board is found, it can be replaced with a board without flaws by contacting the seller, or used at the beginning or end of the row during the laying process. The room in which the laying will be carried out should be well lit and have optimal temperature (18-24 ° C) and air humidity (40-60%). Do not forget to prepare everything for work: the substrate and, if necessary, glue, plywood, hardware, rags to remove excess glue.

Important points to consider when laying parquet boards in a floating way

Before starting work, be sure to read the installation manual and the rules for operating the parquet board, drawn up by its manufacturer. The following are only general recommendations for laying parquet boards, as well as typical mistakes made by inexperienced craftsmen during installation work.

1. Brief step-by-step instructions for floating laying

First of all, you need to measure the width of the room and calculate how many rows of boards you need. If the width of the last row is less than 40 mm, cut the boards of the first row with a saw, reducing their width.

Spread the underlayment on the floor subfloor, if necessary fastening adjacent sheets of material with adhesive tape so that they do not bend during installation.

Start laying from left to right (fig. 1), from a solid wall of the room, placing the first board with a longitudinal tenon against the wall. The distance of 7-10 mm between the boards and the wall must be adjusted using wedges.

Install the next board with the short side facing the previous board. Connect the boards to each other with a spike in the groove (Fig. 2). Continue in this manner until the end of the first row.

Using a saw, cut the last board of the row to size, taking into account the expansion joint, and lay it.

Start the next row (fig. 5) with a piece cut from the last board laid. Adjacent boards should overlap each other by at least 30-50 cm (Fig. 3). For a tight connection, it is necessary to lightly knock adjacent boards to each other with a hammer and a punch (Fig. 8). Attention! Do not use cutting boards as a stump. Continue assembling the parquet board until you reach the last row.

The last row. Measure the width of the last row at several points (taking into account the expansion joint), mark the cutting line and cut the boards to the appropriate size. Lay the boards and press them firmly into place, for example with a mounting foot. Place a protective pad between the wall and the mounting foot to avoid damaging the wall. Install expansion wedges.

Even after studying the instructions for laying a parquet board, many make typical mistakes and miscalculations, namely:

lay a parquet board on a poorly prepared base;

carry out installation work in a room with inadequate temperature and humidity conditions;

do not arrange a technological seam at the border of the board with other floor coverings and when approaching vertical obstacles (walls, columns, built-in furniture);

use in laying trimming boards smaller than permissible sizes;

leave the distance between the end joints of the boards in adjacent rows less than 30 cm;

loosely connect the docking node (thorn-groove) of the board.

Important points to consider when laying parquet boards in a way of rigid fastening to the base

1. Brief step-by-step installation instructions with gluing to the base

Once again, make sure that the base, materials and tools for laying the board in this way are ready and of good quality.

Carry out the assembly of parquet boards in the same order as for the assembly of boards by the floating method, after applying a layer of glue to the base or back of the board.

Press each glued board firmly to the base with nails or a heavy weight. Do not remove the load until the adhesive has completely dried.

Avoid getting adhesives on oiled or varnished surfaces. Wipe off any excess adhesive that appears on the surface immediately with a damp cloth, preventing it from drying out.

Do not subject the floor to heavy loads in the first few hours after laying until the adhesive has completely dried.

2. The main mistakes during installation work

The method of rigid fastening to the base requires much more experience in parquet work. But even professional parquet floorers sometimes make mistakes:

do not clean the base from dust and dirt, which leads to a deterioration in the quality of gluing;

use poor-quality, improperly prepared or unsuitable glue;

do not control the consumption of glue;

do not press the boards tightly enough to the base, leaving “air pockets” between them;

do not remove glue residue from the surface of the board in time.

Summary

At the beginning of our article, we asked ourselves: what you need to know and be able to get a beautiful, reliable and durable parquet flooring. It's time to take stock.

Laying a parquet board is a time-consuming and responsible process that requires special knowledge and professional skills. Compliance with the following rules will help to achieve success in this difficult task.

Choose the right technology for laying parquet boards.

Acquire the necessary quality materials for laying.

Properly prepare the base.

Determine the laying direction.

Start laying the parquet board only after all wet work has been completed.

Entrust the execution of all the above points to professionals.

Parquet board has become a very popular flooring in recent years, as it is one of the most aesthetic materials for flooring. It is suitable for flooring in almost any room of the house or apartment, with the exception of the bathroom (due to high humidity). However, when purchasing a quality floor covering, its proper installation and compliance with the operating recommendations, even in a humid room, a parquet board can last a long time.

In any case, it is not enough to buy quality coating- its durability depends on proper styling. Call the master? - it can be expensive, comparable to the cost of the material. Maybe you should try doing this yourself? Why not, if you apply your skills and diligence. So, laying a parquet board with your own hands is a step-by-step instruction with illustrations.

What is a parquet board?

The structure of the parquet board

First of all, let's remember once again what lies under the term "parquet board".

This type of coating, as an alternative, was patented back in 1941. During its development, a higher resistance to external influences was achieved, with a significant reduction in the cost of the material. Initially, the parquet board consisted of two layers. Subsequently, with the advent innovative technologies, it was repeatedly modernized, however, the material of its manufacture remained unchanged - natural wood. Thanks to this, this flooring has remained very popular for many decades. In particular, the parquet board has become popular in Lately when eco-style is reborn in designer fashion.

Today, as a rule, three-layer parquet boards go on sale, which first appeared on the market in 1946 and turned out to be much more practical than the original version. The Tarkett company began to produce this coating, which to this day supplies its products around the world, while remaining a leader in this field of production.

The strength and durability of this flooring is due to the structural structure of the board. Each of the layers of the "pie" has a different thickness. Well, the position of the wood fibers in each of the subsequent layers have a direction perpendicular to the previous one. In the lower and upper layers, the fibers run along the board, and in the middle, respectively, across. It is this arrangement that gives the material strength and eliminates the risk of deformation.

The top layer of the parquet board is made of high quality hardwood. The layer is not only decorative - it has excellent wear resistance, has a thickness of at least four millimeters. Since the quality of this material depends appearance parquet boards, the wood for the top layer is carefully selected. The lamellas from which the board is made must not have any defects. They are selected according to the textured pattern, as well as according to color shade. The slats are adjusted to each other, glued together, and then fixed to the base also with glue. Some models of parquet boards have a solid coating made of high quality natural veneer. They are also called single-strip boards.
For the manufacture of the middle layer, coniferous wood is usually used. The blanks have semi-vertical or vertical annual rings, which are able to evenly distribute the load and give increased stability to the material. This layer consists of equally wide (20 ÷ 30 mm) perfectly processed dies, which are laid across. The thickness of the middle layer is 7÷8 mm. On it, as a rule, lock connections are located - figured grooves and spikes.
The bottom layer consists of one or two whole boards and is stabilizing. It creates a reliable and stable support for the upper structure and prevents its deflection. The thickness of this layer is no more than 4 mm.

The surface of the outer layer of the finished parquet board is carefully polished, and then covered with protective and decorative compounds, which are applied in several layers - this is putty, then a primer, lining and decorative varnish, which, after application, hardens under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Thanks to the outer layer, the finished coating becomes resistant to fading and mechanical damage. Such a floor covering does not need additional varnishing after laying.

parquet board prices

parquet board

Advantages and disadvantages of parquet board

Like any other floor covering, parquet boards have their advantages and disadvantages. They are best viewed by comparing it with other popular floor coverings.

The main advantage of a parquet board, in comparison with linoleum and laminate, is its environmental friendliness, since it is made only from natural wood.
parquet board, quality installation, is indistinguishable from natural parquet, and a film with the image of a textured wood pattern is applied to linoleum and laminate. In the best case, the laminate can be covered with natural veneer glued to MDF.
In a parquet board, solid wood is used only for the top layer, and piece parquet is made entirely of natural wood, but it also costs several times more than the first. However, the parquet board is more resistant to deformation processes than the parquet, as it has the construction described above - the alternation of layers with different fiber directions. Parquet is rather moody material that requires periodic maintenance, and if everything is left to chance, the wood may swell from high humidity or begin to dry out when there is not enough moisture. As a result, parquet slabs begin to deform - to bend and warp.
Compared with the same parquet, the parquet board is much faster and more convenient to lay, as it has big sizes. In addition, laying the board does not require special skills. It is enough to have a ready-made even base for coatings and instructions for its installation.

It is not so easy to lay parquet, and therefore professional masters, whose work is quite expensive, are engaged in its flooring.

In the case when any mistakes were made when laying the parquet board, they can be corrected if the material was not mounted on glue. With parquet, making corrections will be much more difficult.
Unlike parquet, parquet board goes on sale with a protective coating applied and can be used for a long time without additional processing. Parquet, after its flooring, requires scraping, and then coating with special oil or
A parquet board can imitate parquet, the slabs of which are laid in rows with a shift relative to each other, and also in the form of plank floorboards.
The parquet board perfectly imitates the wooden floor. And the latter is rarely made of valuable wood, as it costs too much. But a parquet board covered with a layer of expensive wood will cost much less.
The service life of a parquet board is 20÷30 years, depending on the quality and timeliness of its care, as well as on the accuracy and intensity of its operation. Unlike it, parquet and solid board have a longer service life, but require more careful maintenance - painting or varnishing or oiling. However, it must be clarified that the parquet board can also be sanded to renew it. And some of its models, which have thick enough the top layer is 6 mm, can be sanded 10 or even more times.

Linoleum prices

linoleum

To summarize, we can conclude that the design of the parquet board is less whimsical to maintain than parquet, and also positively differs from laminate and linoleum in its environmental friendliness. The price of a parquet board cannot be called low, however, you can install it yourself, while it is unlikely that you can cope with the laying of natural parquet on your own.

Substrate preparation for parquet flooring

Parquet flooring can be laid on various substrates - concrete floors, plank or plywood floors, and even on old, but durable, tiled floors. ceramic tiles. The main thing is that the base is even, without protrusions and large recesses, so the surface must be carefully prepared.

The preparatory measures before laying the parquet board include several points, without which it is impossible to obtain a high-quality floor covering.

The first step is a thorough revision of the foundation. If cracks, depressions or protrusions are found, they must be eliminated. Cracks widen and are sealed with concrete or other composite repair mortar(special putty). Separate recesses are also leveled with concrete, and big enough protrusions are broken. Small flaws can be smoothed out by laying a special substrate on the floors.
In addition, the surface of the base is checked for evenness using a building level. It is permissible that the irregularities are 2 ÷ 2.5 mm per one running meter, but no more than that.
If the quality of the base does not fit into the permissible errors, then alignment will have to be arranged. Depending on the type of floor, you can use a screed for this (for example,), or you can bring the floor into a horizontal plane with lags and then attach plywood or boards to them.

If only minor flaws in the floor are found, which still need to be leveled, this can also be done by fixing plywood sheets to the concrete base, laying them according to the principle “ brickwork", that is, in a run. Sheets can be screwed or glued to concrete.

Laminate prices

Before laying parquet boards or plywood directly on concrete, the base must be well primed to strengthen the surface and prevent dust.
If the board is to be laid directly on concrete surface, then a substrate is laid under it.

Foamed polyethylene, thin sheets of extruded polystyrene, cork material in slabs and rolls are used as this layer.

A cork sheet or slab substrate is most often glued to the base, as it not only smooths out small irregularities, but also acts as a heater.

Both roll and board materials are laid end to end.

It is not recommended to use an old carpet or carpet as a substrate, as well as linoleum, as this material can deform and pull parquet boards along with it. In addition, the old flooring absorbs various odors during its operation, which the new parquet board cannot hide.

You need to prepare not only materials, but also tools for performing work. The list of items required for installation includes:

- an electric jigsaw, a circular saw or a hacksaw with a fine tooth pitch;

- rubber mallet - for tamping rows;

- screwdriver;

- rule and building level;

- square and tape measure;

- regular and notched trowels;

- a special bracket for pulling boards. It can be purchased ready-made or made independently from a steel strip 4 ÷ 5 mm thick.

- tamping bar. It can also be "store-bought" or homemade;

- expansion wedges.

Having prepared everything you need, you need to once again conduct a conscientious cleaning. In particular, the floor surface before laying any material must be carefully. Any small pebble that accidentally remains under the surface can seriously harm the overall quality of the resulting floor.

Features of laying parquet boards

Before moving on to the step-by-step instructions for installing parquet flooring, it’s worth talking a little about some of the nuances of its installation, which you also need to have information about.

The first thing to remember is that the parquet board purchased and brought into the house must be aged in the room where it will subsequently be laid. This is especially important to consider if the purchase was made in the cold season, and the temperature difference between the room and the street is quite large. In the room where the coating will be laid, the air temperature should be at least 18 degrees, and the humidity should be 30 ÷ 60%. For “tracking down”, it is better to free the board from the factory polymer packaging.

Before proceeding to the preparation of the floors and the installation of the coating, it is necessary to draw up in advance an approximate layout of the board, taking into account its length and width. Thanks to this drawing, it will be easier to navigate when laying. It becomes possible to immediately determine the most successful size of the cut boards, which are usually laid along both edges of the row or only on one side of it.
Segments of boards, reported in a row, must have a length of at least 500 mm.
When drawing up a diagram, you also need to take into account the width of the boards of the last row, since they usually have to be cut. If they have a width of less than 60 mm, then the coating should be moved a little, that is, cutting the boards not only of the last, but also of the first row.
Parquet boards are laid "in a run". This means that the boards of the second row are offset by ½ or ⅓ of the length relative to the first row.
Given the features and shape of the room, the location is chosen, that is, the direction of laying the boards, which determines the pattern.

- The easiest option, which is most often chosen for laying, is to mount the board along or across the room. At the same time, it is worth considering that if the board is laid across the room, it will visually make it wider, and the longitudinal installation will lengthen it. Such an "optical game" will help solve the problem of a room that is too long or narrow.

Prices for flooring under parquet

underlay for parquet

- The second installation option is a diagonal masonry. It is more complex in execution and involves a lot of waste, which means that the cost of buying a board will be increased, as more her number. This installation method is great for flooring in square rooms and visually expands the space of the room. When making diagonal masonry, the end edges of the boards extreme to the wall are cut off clearly, at an angle of 45 or 30 degrees. Installation of the coating begins from the middle of the room. To do this, along the diagonal of the room - from corner to corner, a line is drawn or a cord is pulled, along which the first row of the coating is laid. Then, the masonry continues first in one and then in the other direction from the central row.

Technology of installation of a parquet board

Understanding the technological methods of laying this coating, you need to consider all aspects.

So, the parquet board can be laid in three ways - "floating" masonry, on glue or on logs. To decide which one is suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are, deal with their advantages and disadvantages.

"Floating" parquet flooring

Such laying of a parquet board is carried out without fixing the coating to the base. Well, its solidity is achieved only through locking joints located along the edges of the boards.

Such installation includes several stages, which will be discussed in detail in the instruction table below. Now we can only dwell on the positive and negative aspects of this method.

TO "pros" This technology can include:

Simplicity and speed of laying.
Possibility to correct errors made during installation.
Possibility to replace individual floor boards in case of damage.
Ease of dismantling the board and the possibility of recycling. For example, the coating is tired or has lost its relevance or aesthetics, so it was decided to replace it. The board can be easily removed and transferred to the dacha, where it can be put back into one of the rooms.
The resistance of the floating coating to temperature fluctuations, as the design has the ability to expand the material.
Savings on the purchase of glue.
The floating cover can be operated immediately after the completion of the installation work.

"Cons" this method of laying can be considered:

"Floating" coating is not suitable for installation in rooms with an area of more than 50 "squares".
It is not recommended for laying in rooms where a high load will be placed on the floors.
The coating is sensitive even to small irregularities, so it is necessary under it. However, this material will cost less than special glue.

Adhesive way to install parquet boards

The name of this installation method speaks for itself. That is, with this approach, the parquet board is laid on a special glue applied to the base.

And When purchasing glue, you need to make sure that it is suitable for a particular type of parquet board.

Installation according to this technique is carried out in stages. At the same time, strict adherence to all technological recommendations, tested by masters and proving their importance, is of particular importance.

The adhesive installation method is used if the board is planned to be laid on a concrete coating, which must be well primed before starting work. If the apartment is located on the ground floor of the house, where there is a high probability of dampness penetrating floors and walls, then it is best to impregnate the floors with a deep penetration waterproofing compound that will protect surfaces from moisture and mold. The primer must be applied not only on the floors, but also on the lower part of the walls, with a strip of 100 ÷ 120 mm. If the solution will be applied in several layers, then each of them must be well dried.
The next step, along one of the walls, a parquet board is laid, between it and the wall, at a distance of about 400 ÷ 500 mm from each other, special plastic or wooden inserts are installed that will provide a compensation gap. They allow the flooring material to expand as the room temperature rises, keeping the flooring level.

Further, adjusting the length of the last board in the row (how this is done will be shown in the table below), glue is applied to the floor surface with a spatula over an area 80 ÷ 100 mm wide more than the outer line of the row. After application, the adhesive is spread over the surface with a notched trowel.
Now it's time to lay the parquet board on the glue layer. It must immediately be precisely joined to each other using locking joints - this process is carried out in the same way when laying the board in any of the three ways.

When the entire row of boards is laid, in some cases the coating can be additionally fixed to the floor using self-tapping screws, through pre-drilled holes in the grooves. Holes are drilled in increments of 300÷350 mm.
Then the adhesive mass is again applied to the concrete base and distributed over its surface.
In the second row, the board is laid with a shift of half (or 1/3) relative to the already glued board. First, the boards are joined along the length, and then connected to the elements of the first row, after which it is fixed with self-tapping screws to the base.

If the two rows do not fit snugly against each other, that is, if there is a gap between them, a smooth bar is attached to the edge of the outer row, which is gently tapped with a rubber mallet so as not to break the lock connection on the parquet board. Melted tapping is carried out until the gap becomes almost invisible.
In this way, the entire floor covering is glued.
Do not allow adhesive to come into contact with front side parquet board. If this happens, then the drops are immediately removed - for this, a clean rag should always be at hand.
When the surface of the floor of the room is completely covered with parquet, the coating must be left to dry for 2-3 days, without giving it any load. It is necessary to consider measures to exclude even an accidental passage into the room. The drying time of the glue, as a rule, the manufacturer indicates on the packaging.
After the glue under the coating is completely dry, the seams between the boards must be treated with an acrylic transparent sealant, which will reduce the risk of moisture from getting under the boards from the outside.
When the sealant has completely hardened, you can remove the inserts along the walls, proceed with the installation of skirting boards, as well as the interior threshold.

It must be said that the adhesive method of fastening is selected if the floor surface has small irregularities that can be corrected with a layer of glue. Therefore, when installing a parquet board using a similar technology, you need to carefully press it to the floor surface.

TO positive aspects adhesive mounting coatings include:

The possibility of using this material on any size area.
Higher resistance to increased loads.
The method is suitable for mounting a parquet board on top of a screed, equipped above a warm water floor.

TO shortcomings adhesive laying include:

The cost of purchasing glue.
Possibility of operation of the premises only when the glue is completely dry.
More complex installation of the coating.
The impossibility of correcting the mistakes made in the masonry.
Difficulty replacing damaged boards.

Installation of parquet boards on logs

Laying a parquet board on can be done in two ways - fixing it directly on the logs or on the wall on them plywood.

If the first installation option is chosen, then it must be taken into account that the thickness of the parquet board must be at least 22 mm. Only in this case, it is guaranteed that it will not bend under external load. In addition, lags must have large enough width (about 80 ÷ 90 mm) and fit on the base with a small step - usually 400 mm. The parquet board, which is fixed directly to the logs, is laid perpendicular to them. Board joints in one row are made in the middle of the lag width.

The second option involves fixing the lag to the base in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm, since plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm are laid on them before laying the board.

Both one and the other installation option is convenient if the floors need to be insulated or leveled by setting the lags in a horizontal plane according to the level.

Logs, selected under the flooring of the parquet board, must be well and properly dried. There should be no deformation of the timber or board, otherwise the finished floor may begin to creak over time.

Prices for parquet glue

parquet adhesive

Depending on how much you plan to raise the clean floor above the base, the logs can be fixed directly to the base, or raised above it and leveled with special racks or studs.

If the floors along the logs are arranged in a private house or in an apartment located on the ground floor of a high-rise building, then a concrete base is a must waterproof. This can be done using special coating solutions, impregnations, a dense plastic film or roofing material.

Logs are fixed on top of the waterproofing, between which insulation material is laid, which is covered with a dust-proof film. It is especially important to take this into account if mineral wool is used as a heater.

Then, along the logs with the help of self-tapping screws, sheets of plywood are fixed, between which a compensation gap of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm should be provided. Mounting screws are screwed into the logs through the plywood coating in increments of 150 ÷ 180 mm. The edge of each plywood sheet should be in the middle of the log.

Installation of a parquet board using "floating" technology - step by step instructions

Due to the fact that the most popular way of laying a parquet board is its "floating" version, it will be considered in the table below - from the beginning of the work to its final.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	So, the first step is to lay a waterproofing material on a leveled and primed base. In the case under consideration, a polyethylene film was chosen for this purpose. The illustration clearly shows that the waterproofing is laid not only on the horizontal surface of the floor, but also on the walls - it is raised by about 100 mm. It is not necessary to fix the waterproofing on the walls, however, if a thin material is chosen that will fall to the floor and interfere with work, then it can be temporarily fixed to the wall with masking tape. But, nevertheless, it would be better to choose a dense film - this will reduce the time for work that will be required for gluing it.
	The next step, a substrate is laid on the waterproofing material. In this case, dense foamed polyethylene is chosen, but it may well be replaced with cork roll or plate material. First, only one sheet of a roll-type substrate is laid along the wall, from which the installation of the parquet board will begin, since if the room is completely covered, it will interfere with work, shifting to one side or the other. Usually, the flooring is laid from the left corner of the room, no matter how its installation is planned - along or across the room.
	After that, a pre-compiled scheme for laying the material is taken and prepared spacer wedges, which must be temporarily installed between the wall and the parquet board. The thickness of the spacer wedges should be 10÷15 mm.
	The next step is to lay the first parquet board. It is temporarily pressed against the walls to determine the evenness of its position.
	Now it's time to create an expansion gap between the wall and the flooring material. It is created using spacer wedges installed on all sides of the board, bordering the walls. The board is pressed tightly against these wedges. The step between the wedges along the long side of the board should be about 500 mm.
	Next, laying the second board of the first row. It is fastened to the first by means of a docking lock.
	Docking locks at different manufacturers may vary slightly, but usually when connected, they seem to snap together.
	It is important that the second and subsequent boards are set exactly to the width of the previous board. If one of them is moved to outside, the next row will not be able to dock with the previous one. This illustration clearly shows how the connection of two boards along the length of the row should look.
	Having laid out the first row almost completely, except for the last board, which, as a rule, has to be cut, using a tape measure or a metal ruler, measure the distance from the wall to the end of the laid board. At the same time, I take into account the fact that it is necessary to leave a compensation gap of 10 ÷ 15 mm, which was mentioned above. Therefore, in order to avoid accidental errors during measurement, it is best to attach a spacer wedge to the wall and measure the distance already from it.
	The next step, a whole board is applied to the end of the first row, then it is turned face down and the length of the desired segment is laid on its wrong side. Further, according to the mark along the building corner, a line perpendicular to the edges is drawn, along which, using circular saw or an electric jigsaw is cut.
	The prepared segment is joined to the rest of the boards of the first row, while expansion wedges are also installed along the wall.
	The second part of the board, from which a piece was cut to complete the first row, very often begins the second row (if the length of this segment allows). It connects to the first row of the castle, located along the long side of the board.
	Next, the second board of the second row is laid. The complexity of its installation lies in the fact that it must be fastened with locks to the previous and adjacent board. Some joints are designed to join the boards first along the length of the row, and then fasten the second row to the first. Others, as shown in the illustration, are first joined to the board of the first row, and then connected to the previous board. In the same way, the entire floor covering is laid. However, probably in any room there are places that complicate the work.
	So that the board lies neatly around front door, and the threshold was in its opening, at the bottom of the door frame it was washed down to the wall, as shown in the photo. However, the board does not yet fit into place, as it can be damaged by further actions.
	The next step is to mark the location of the threshold, which will press the edges of the boards in the doorway. To do this, it is necessary to lay a sub-threshold along the width of the opening, on which the threshold will then be fixed. Along it, from the side of the parquet being laid, it is necessary to carry out sharp knife in order to cut off a strip of backing material that will interfere with a snug fit of the footboard to the base.
	Further, through the mounting holes provided in the footboard, marks are made with a marker or pencil. Then the footrest is removed, and holes are drilled along the markings.
	Plastic dowel plugs are inserted into the holes. Then, a footrest is installed in place, which is fixed with self-tapping screws screwed through the holes into the dowel-plugs located in the base.
	Next, you can prepare a place for mounting the board, which will go into the groove cut in the door frame. Since the board, due to its installation in the gap, cannot be lifted and fastened with a lock, as happened during the installation of the remaining boards, part of the lock is removed from the already laid board with a chisel. This process will have to be done not only along the length of the board, but also along its width.
	Then, carpentry or other glue is applied to the cut sections of the boards with a strip, designed to fasten wooden parts.
	Now the board is slipped into the gap under door frame and advances to the already laid coating. The edges of the board are pressed tightly against the cut lock lines with glue applied to them.
	If necessary, the board to be glued can be knocked out through the beam provided for this, using a hammer, since there should not be a gap in the connection of the board with the main coating. Similar operations will need to be performed on the other side of the doorway.
	The next step is to lay the rest of the boards, leaving one edge into the doorway. They are laid with an edge on a footrest fixed with self-tapping screws. After that, the edges of the boards are pressed from above with a threshold, which is screwed together with the boards to the footboard. Thus, the edges of the boards will be fixed to the base, and also sandwiched between the two metal strips of the threshold.
	If you plan to continue laying the parquet board and next room, then instead of a metal nut, you can install a plastic docking profile. To do this, its lower part is fixed to the base, and after laying the boards, the gap between them is covered with a profile that joins with the bottom one. At the same time, it must be remembered that a compensation gap of 4 ÷ 5 mm must be provided between the lower profile element and the boards.
	Another rather difficult area for parquet flooring is heating pipes that go into the interfloor ceiling. Of course, you can finish the board by reaching the pipes, and also put a segment along the wall behind them. floor material, but such styling will look extremely sloppy. In addition, dust will collect in the remaining gap, as well as between the pipes. Solving this problem is quite simple by laying the board in front of the pipes and noting their location along its width.
	Then the board is moved and laid next to the pipes, and with the help of a building square, a line for the location of the risers is outlined on it, which will cross the previously marked lines.
	Thus, points will be found at which holes will need to be drilled.
	To drill holes, you will need a drill bit of the desired diameter. For this version of the pipes shown in the picture, a 30 mm diameter bit was used.
	The next step is to cut along a line across the board. The cut should go through the middle of the round holes. Now you can assemble the resulting structure into a single coating. To do this, the cut off part of the board is wound behind the pipes and installed so that the semicircles are located near the back of the pipes.
	Then, waterproof wood glue is applied to the end of the board, after which, the rest of the board moves to the front of the pipes and joins with the segment, that is, it is pressed against the end on which the glue is applied. After that, the gaps remaining between the pipes and the board are closed with special decorative frames that look like donuts. Connectors are provided in these masking parts, allowing them to be divided in two and installed on different sides of the pipe, and then assembled into a single structure. These elements will not only close the gaps from dust entering them, but also give the passage of pipes through the floor covering a neat appearance.
	Many craftsmen, who are installing parquet boards for the first time, have problems when laying its last row. The difficulty is that you need to manage to dock the board or its trimmed part with the rest of the coating.
	In case of loose pressing of the boards of the last to the previous row, it must be tightened with a special device called a bracket. It is inserted into the gap between the board and the wall, and then tapped on its second, bent up edge. Knocking is carried out until the board is firmly pressed against the rest of the coating and snaps into place.
	After pulling up the last row of flooring, you can remove the spacer wedges and move on to installing and fixing the skirting brackets to the wall.
	These parts can have a different shape, and they are selected depending on what kind of plinth it is planned to arrange the floor covering. The brackets are fixed to the wall with a step of 400÷500 mm.
	The plinth can have a flat or curly shape. As a rule, a cable channel for communications is provided on its inside. Therefore, before installing the plinth into the brackets, cables are laid into it.
	Now it remains to install the plinth in place. It can simply snap onto the brackets or be screwed to them. If the latter option is selected, then a blank strip is temporarily removed from the middle part of the element, which will open the channel through which the skirting boards will be fixed to the brackets. Then, a strip returns to its place, which will disguise the caps of the mounting screws. Important - the plinth may have a different design, fastened in a different way. But its fixation should never be carried out to the flooring - only to the wall!
	At the last stage, using a sharp knife, the waterproofing material protruding above the plinth is carefully cut off. The knife must be very sharp so that the film can be cut easily, as pressing on the wall can damage its finish.
	The result of the work done will be a neat, warm and very practical floor covering that will last, with proper care, for many years.

Now, after careful study submitted above the material, you can proceed to the practical implementation of the recommendations given in it. As you can see from the step-by-step instructions, it is quite possible to make a “floating” laying of a parquet board on your own, having leveled and properly prepared the base for its installation.

And at the end, traditionally - a small video that demonstrates the process of laying a parquet board on a plywood base.

Video: Adhesive method of laying a parquet board on a plywood base

Parquet has long been considered one of the most the best materials for finishing the floor. To this day, such a natural coating remains popular, in particular for decorating rooms in both classic and modern style. Many people are wondering how to lay parquet, or rather, what methods exist and what should be remembered in the course of this work. Modern technologies make it possible to install with a minimum number of gaps.

Choice of parquet board

There are several factors that affect the life of the floor, its quality and other characteristics, namely:

The thickness of the top layer. The service life of a parquet board directly depends on this indicator, since over time the surface is erased, scratches and other physical damage appear. This, in turn, further requires additional finishing - scraping and grinding.

Important! The greater the thickness of the top layer, the greater the number of processing steps that the coating can withstand without losing its performance.

The total thickness of the board. The range of parquet board thickness is within 7-25 mm. In residential premises, it is recommended to lay parquet boards with a thickness of at least 13 mm. For laying over concrete screed it is advisable to choose a board of 22-25 mm, on plywood or logs - a smaller thickness is allowed.
The type of wood and the quality of its processing. A quality board must be well sanded. If you find the slightest bumps, roughness and other defects, it is better to refuse the purchase. It is also necessary to pay attention to the type of wood - depending on the type of wood, the moisture resistance of the coating, its hardness and resistance to temperature extremes may differ.

Important! When choosing, you should take into account the conditions in a particular room: temperature, humidity level, expected loads.

Dimensions. Standard overall dimensions are in the range of width 13-20 mm, length - 1.7-2.5 m. Can be single, double, triple or quadruple.
Lock quality. The absence of chips, damage, as well as high-quality processing of the joints guarantees a simple and quick installation of the parquet board.
Type and properties of the coating. In the event that the surface of the board is varnished, then it is worth asking about the number of layers applied - the wear resistance of the material and its durability will depend on this.

Important! The right type of wood will make it possible to avoid drying out and cracking of the material in conditions high temperature or deformation in high humidity. For example, beech flooring is not recommended for use in rooms with 60% humidity.

Materials and tools

To make the result worthy, and to make it easier to work, you need to have the following tools and assistant materials at hand:

Level.
Plumb.
Roulette.
Beam or finishing bar.
Pencil.
Square.
Saw.
Wooden wedges.
Hammer.
Electric jigsaw.
Sharply sharpened knife.
Finishing crutch.
Dowels, nails, screws.
Styrofoam or roofing paper.
Embedded bushings for pipes.
Wear-resistant polyethylene.
Glue (PVA or D3).

Rules for laying parquet boards

In order to properly lay parquet, the following must be considered:

The main rule when laying - the base (floor) should be perfectly flat.

Important! However, there are still unevenness tolerances - 3 mm per several meters. Moreover, this defect can only be where the pit does not go into a hillock - in other words, non-roughness can only be smooth.

Lay the parquet board only on a dry floor. If the screed is completely fresh, work is not worth it.

Important! To make sure that the screed is completely dry, you can use a special device. If you do not have such a device, then there is a proven method: oilcloth is laid on the surface for a day. If, after this time, condensation occurs on the material, the floor is not yet ready for parquet installation.

It is recommended to leave the purchased material in the package indoors for a couple of days for “acclimatization”.
If laying is carried out in a newly built building, then it is advisable to ventilate well and also heat it for a month.

Important! It is not recommended to lay parquet in an unheated room.

Foundation preparation

Before laying parquet, it is necessary to prepare the base. As mentioned above, it must be dry and as even as possible.

The amount of work depends on the basis, because:

in multi-apartment brick or panel buildings, reinforced concrete flooring acts as the basis;
in houses of old construction, floors can be made of lightweight types of concrete located on wooden or metal load-bearing beams;
in private cottages or houses, special supports that were installed directly on the ground can serve as the basis.

In the case of laying parquet on a concrete base, it is necessary to level the floor. The screed is made exclusively for dry leveling. Then the surface of the screed is treated with a primer.

Important! If there is moisture in the concrete floor, additional waterproofing work must be carried out.

Work on the installation of the finishing coating is carried out only after the screed has completely dried - no less than 28 days after pouring. When leveling the base with plywood sheets and a log, the space between the logs is filled with mineral wool, and the sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws.

Important! When laying on a subfloor, wooden or metal floors are used, hydro- and thermal insulation is made using polyurethane, polyethylene film, mineral wool or other materials.

Ways of laying a parquet board

There are two main ways to properly lay parquet. Let's deal with each of them in more detail.

floating way

Most manufacturers make a board equipped with a locking joint, which eliminates the need for glue. The groove-lock connection is durable, withstands heavy loads, and is resistant to humidity and temperature extremes.

Laying parquet on a screed without plywood involves the use of a substrate that provides additional hydro and thermal insulation. The backing can be made from synthetic materials or cork. Its thickness should not exceed 3 mm, otherwise the floor will deform under load.

The installation process is carried out as follows:

Remove all dust and debris from the surface of the screed with a vacuum cleaner.
Lay a hydro- and heat-insulating layer. Joints are sealed.
Measure the room and select the required amount of material. All technical holes for pipes and other communications are drilled in the parquet board.
The first board is positioned with a tenon in the direction of the long wall, providing a gap of 8-10 mm using a wooden wedge.

Important! The gap is necessary to compensate for expansion under the influence of temperature changes.

The second board is set at an angle of 25-30 degrees relative to the first - when lowered, the lock snaps into place. With the help of a hammer and a finishing bar, carefully, so as not to spoil the lock, additional sealing of the joint is made. Subsequent boards are attached in the same way.
When reaching the end wall, the board is cut to the desired length with a hacksaw or jigsaw. The cut point should be located in the direction of the wall - after completion of work, it will be closed with a plinth.
A plinth is installed around the perimeter of the room.

This installation method has several advantages:

The room is ready for use immediately after completion of work.
The coating is easily repaired - in case of damage, individual parts can be replaced without the need to remove the entire floor.
It is possible to dismantle and reuse the material.

The disadvantages include the following factors:

There is a limit on the size of the room - no more than 50 square meters.
Walking makes more noise.
More complex processing must be done using a grinder.

Adhesive way

Correctly lay parquet on plywood or OSB board using glue is pretty easy. However, the following points must be taken into account when working:

Laying is carried out from the far corner of the room in relation to the entrance doors.
In contrast to the “floating” method of laying parquet, bonding requires a perfectly flat surface without any unevenness.
It is possible to lay parquet on a wooden floor only after careful scraping and polishing.
The best characteristics for gluing parquet have a two-component polyurethane adhesive.
Gluing is carried out both to the base and along the entire perimeter of the board (both in width and length).
For additional fixation, nails or self-tapping screws can be used, which connect the lower part of the interlock to the plywood base.
The temperature in the room should be at least 18 degrees, the humidity in the range of 40-60 percent, the humidity of the screed should not exceed 12 percent.
Moisture-resistant plywood or OSB board should be fixed firmly.
Walking on the floor surface is allowed only after it has completely dried.

Important! The adhesive method of fastening gives a greater rigidity of the floor in comparison with the “floating”, the coating as a result produces less noise during walking on it. At the same time, the repair and dismantling of such a time is more problematic.

When the repair comes to an end, you should think about the design of the floor. In spite of huge selection floor coverings, lovers of environmentally friendly materials choose parquet boards.

Types of parquet boards

Typically, builders classify flooring by the number of stripes. They are visible on the decorative surface of the board. According to this criterion, parquet boards are of several types:

Single lane. This manufacturing technology allows you to make a board from a solid wooden layer, while maintaining the natural texture of the material.

Types of parquet boards depending on the quantity
strips of lamellas in the top layer

Two-way. The base of this type of boards is made of a solid or composite plate. The top decorative layer is made of two dies.

Three-lane. This speaking name. Such a parquet element consists of three strips, each of which is divided into fragments.

Four-lane. The parquet floor element consists of four strips.

Laying parquet board: video

Preparing the floor for parquet flooring

It doesn't matter what type of parquet board you choose, the floor for laying it must be prepared according to a number of mandatory requirements. Everything must be completed indoors preparatory work, eliminate sources of draft and moisture. It is best to lay on a concrete floor. The base must be clean and without drops. If there are serious defects, pits or bumps, they must be repaired by any convenient way. The building level should check the surface. Deviation from the horizontal is allowed no more than 2 millimeters per 2 square meters. The base for laying parquet boards must be dry, and any cracks will lead to defects in the finished flooring.

Before self-laying parquet boards, they must be held for two days in the room where the work will be carried out. Temperature adaptation will increase the flexibility of the boards and activate their properties.

1. waterproofing film
2. foamed polyethylene or polystyrene
3. plywood sheets

The next step will be the preparation of the cement base: laying waterproofing and heat-insulating materials:

On a cleaned concrete base, it is necessary to lay a special waterproofing film. Its laying is done along the room. Each strip of film should overlap one another by 15-20 centimeters. Waterproofing should be installed on the walls to a height of about 5 centimeters.
Thermal insulation is laid on the waterproofing film. Foamed polyethylene or polystyrene can act as such. The thermal insulation lays out close to the wall, and the elements are glued together with adhesive tape.
Further, it is possible to lay plywood or chipboard sheets, on which the parquet board is then glued. If selected solid method board fixings.

Completing these two steps allows you to start laying your hardwood flooring.

Technologies for laying parquet boards

Professional builders who specialize in laying flooring suggest the following main types of work for laying floorboards:

"Floating" method

The so-called "floating" method. For this technology, the preparation of the concrete base is carried out in the manner described above, that is, waterproofing and thermal insulation.

With this method, parquet boards are connected to each other without fastening to the base. First row of parquet boards self-laying placed along a longer wall, but not one with a doorway. Laying is done towards the window if the window is located on a shorter wall. Previously, parquet boards were glued together with a special compound. It provided strength and at the same time elasticity of the entire future surface.

Now, to save time and convenience, parquet boards are equipped with special locks. They are a system when there is a groove on one board, and a ledge under it on the other. Such a system allows you to lay parquet boards with your own hands, without resorting to the help of specialists. Each board is placed with the top lock against the wall, leaving a gap of about 1 centimeter. It is worth remembering that the gap must be less than the width of the plinth, otherwise it will not close. For convenience, special construction wedges can be inserted between the wall and the board. They are removed after the flooring is completely finished.

The lock of connection of parquet boards of the "CLIC" type

The next row of parquet boards starts with the remaining element of the previous row. It is necessary to tightly connect the boards to each other until the lock clicks. Sometimes they are hard to close. In this case, they can be knocked out. Under no circumstances should a hammer be used. For these purposes, a wooden block or a rubberized mallet is suitable.

"Floating" technology is used in relatively small rooms with an area of \u200b\u200bno more than 50 square meters. This method is very practical. In the event of a defect in one or more boards, it will allow you to easily disassemble the floor and replace the necessary elements.

"Non-floating" or solid method

This method involves a slightly different preparation of the concrete base. However, it is also cleaned and made even. After that, sheets of plywood are laid on a concrete base. Its thickness is at least a centimeter, and a water-repellent coating is also desirable. Plywood sheets are pre-cut into elements, each side of which should be no more than 1 meter. They are laid with gaps of at least 5 millimeters from each other. After the room is completely covered with plywood, the base must be thoroughly sanded and dust-free.

Fastening a parquet board to the base with nails without a hat

The solid method involves carrying out all work in a room with a temperature of about + 20 degrees. The laying technique itself is the same as with the "floating" method, however, each parquet board is independently glued to the plywood base. Additionally, the seams between the parquet boards are glued.

Fastening the parquet board to the base with a construction gun

A special material is used as an adhesive composition. It is also necessary to leave a gap between the wall and parquet boards, which is subsequently closed with a plinth. Before installing the skirting board, and after the work in the room is completed, cut off all protruding insulating materials with a sharp knife.

Laying parquet boards on a wooden base

This method is in many ways similar to laying boards on logs and is used when the room already has a wooden base. Parquet boards are nailed to it, a waterproofing substrate is preliminarily laid. This work can be done when the base is even.

The process of laying parquet boards on a wooden floor

Laying parquet boards on logs

This method can only be used when using thick parquet boards. Used as lags wooden bars. With the help of the building level, they are installed across the room, where waterproofing material must be laid in advance.

Dowel-nails should be used to fasten the lag to the floor. It is necessary to retreat no more than 5 centimeters from the wall and install the first bar. The following are installed at a distance of no more than 40 centimeters. The horizontality of the lags must be checked with a level in all directions. To align the lags, special plates are placed under them. Parquet boards are laid on logs in the traditional way and attached to them with nails. They are hammered at an angle of 45 degrees into the base of the board. This place is further blocked by another board inserted into the groove.

Fastening parquet boards to joists

Diagonal styling

Another type of parquet board laying is diagonal arrangement. With this method, any method of fastening described above is used. Laying begins with the fact that the parquet board is marked in the middle. Then an angle of 45 degrees is laid off from it and the same at the end of the board. The corners must be mirrored. After that, the board is cut and tried on to the wall with a spike with a traditional centimeter gap. If the markup and cut are done correctly, then work continues according to the usual rules.

Diagonal parquet flooring

The final step should be to fill in the corner from where the work was started. Diagonal decking method increases the amount required material. Therefore, laying it with your own hands requires careful calculations.

Laying parquet boards on the floor has a number of requirements for the base. Ignoring the basic rules leads to the appearance of defects in the flooring, the rapid destruction of the interlocks, the appearance of squeaks, and the swelling of the parquet.

In this article, we will talk about how to lay a parquet board on a wooden floor so that a beautiful lacquered floor will please the eye for decades.

Preparing a wooden floor for parquet installation

The wooden floor under the parquet must be dry, hard and even. Logs under draft boards should not be old or rotten. The boards must be dry, otherwise the moisture will be quickly absorbed by the parquet dice.

It is best to use a moisture meter. Permissible value for the base for parquet - 3-5%.

Draft boards must be strong, planed, without flaws.

The maximum allowable differences on a wooden draft floor- 2 mm per linear meter. If the height difference is greater, it is necessary to eliminate it using an electric planer, a parquet machine, or using special level masses based on dry mixes.

If the differences are not removed, immediately after commissioning, the floor will begin to creak and “walk” slightly, which leads to the destruction of the interlocks between the parquet slabs.

Substrate laying

The plywood substrate performs several functions at once:

eliminates residual minor irregularities;
acts as an additional waterproofing;
serves as a shock absorber between the subfloor boards and the final floor covering.

Plywood sheets are stacked on the floor in a checkerboard pattern, which will achieve a certain monolithic state.

Tips for installing such a coating

Between each sheet there should be gaps of 2-3 mm. This will allow the plywood to expand freely as the room temperature changes. It is also believed that such a gap helps to avoid creaking of the substrate when walking on it.

Read more: Laying tiles on the wooden floor in the bathroom - going against the rules

Preparing for installation

You can choose any direction for laying the plates. Most often, they are guided by the length of the room and the location of the windows in order to guess with the lighting. If you lay a parquet board on a wooden floor diagonally, then get ready for a decent amount of trimmings.

Depending on the manufacturer, parquet planks can be connected by insertion, locking and fixing brackets.

The most common and convenient option is the lock connection. The speed of installation depends on the type of parquet board.

In the room where the laying of the flooring has begun, all construction work, including the installation of doors, must be completed, all debris must be removed. The air temperature should be within 16-23 degrees, and humidity - 40-60%.

Laying parquet board on a wooden floor

There are two types of parquet installation: floating and adhesive.

The latter is used when the basis is a concrete or cement screed, as well as a level-mass. In our case, we will talk about the floating method.

Floating parquet flooring

In this case, the parquet board is not glued to the wooden floor or plywood, but simply laid on a soft substrate or without it. There is a gap between the wall and the flooring, which allows the boards to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity without compromising the quality of the flooring.