Most of the constructed panel and brick houses did not provide for the insulation of facades. Concrete and brick have high density and low thermal insulation properties. The result is cold walls and uncomfortable temperatures. There are several ways to insulate from the inside, the main thing is to avoid the appearance of dampness.
Dew point - physics of the phenomenon
A cold wall is not the only drawback of panel or brick houses. Often dampness and accompanying fungus and mold appear on it. The best way struggle - wall insulation from the outside (this is also a requirement of SNiP), but this is not always possible. Therefore, you have to fight the cold wall, insulating it from the inside. But there are pitfalls here.
Even if the cold wall was previously dry, then when it is insulated from the inside, dampness may appear. And the so-called dew point will be to blame.
The dew point is a conditional boundary at which the temperature of water vapor becomes equal to the temperature of condensate formation. It manifests itself, naturally, in the cold season. With proper design of the house (taking into account the characteristics of the region), it is approximately in the middle of the thickness of the facade of a material of uniform density.
If insulation is carried out from the outside, then the dew point shifts in the direction of decreasing density (that is, to the outer surface of the wall). When insulating from the inside, it moves inward, and condensate may appear on the surface of the main wall or inside the insulation.
And in order to assess the scale of possible damage, it is enough to say that as a result of the life of one person, about 4 liters of water evaporate per day (cooking, wet cleaning, personal hygiene, washing, etc.).
Features of cold wall insulation from the inside
There are several ways to prevent condensation on a wall insulated from the inside:
- Creation of a layer of heat-insulating material with a vapor permeability lower than that of the facade material.
- Warming with materials with minimal water absorption.
- Application of ventilated facade technology (taking into account internal placement).
Liquid thermal insulation
polyurethane foam
PPU insulation meets all requirements for vapor barrier, water absorption and the absence of seams. Therefore, even if there is a dew point inside the layer, it will remain “conditional”, since there is no condensation in vapor-tight materials. It turns out from the side of the room a completely sealed heat-insulating layer.
The environmental friendliness of PPU after curing meets the requirements for residential premises. Harmful fumes are present only when the components are mixed during the spraying process - after polymerization, the structure of the material remains stable.
Thermal insulation is applied between the crate and sewn up with moisture-resistant sheet materials(GKL, OSB or plywood). In fact, it is like a large prefabricated sandwich panel.
The disadvantage of this method is the use of special equipment.
liquid ceramics
This is a relatively young heat-insulating material, the action of which is based on the use of two principles - the creation of a thin layer with high resistance to heat transfer and the reflection of heat towards the radiation source.
Of course, a thin heat-insulating layer cannot provide good thermal insulation This is an optional but essential factor. Although it gives a fairly high effect - the wall becomes much "warmer" to the touch.
The main task of reducing heat loss is performed by microscopic ceramic spheres that reflect infrared radiation.
According to the manufacturers, the effect of a 1.5 mm layer can be compared with thermal insulation with 5 cm thick foam plastic or 6.5 cm mineral wool.
Application method is the same as for acrylic paint(basic is the same). After polymerization, a dense and durable film is formed on the surface, and latex additives improve the waterproofing properties.
Roll thermal insulation
Penofol
Penofol is a combination of polyethylene foam with aluminum foil. This is a whole series of materials (including single-sided, double-sided, laminated, with an adhesive layer). Moreover, it can be used both in combination with other heat-insulating materials, and independently. By the way, penofol is popular for warming the bath from the inside, and there is much more steam there than in an ordinary residential area.
To insulate a cold wall, foam foam is used with one layer of foil (one-sided) and up to 5 mm thick.
In the case, as with liquid ceramics, the effect is achieved due to the low thermal conductivity of foamed polyethylene, as well as its low vapor permeability and high reflective properties of the foil (up to 97%).
But unlike seamless coatings, complete sealing and prevention of cold bridges cannot be achieved. Consequently, condensation may form on the surface of the foil. Even the obligatory sealing of joints with adhesive aluminum foil will still leave gaps inside between adjacent sheets.
The method of combating the formation of condensate on the foil is traditional - a crate with a ventilated gap between the foam and the outer lining.
polyph
Another version of polyethylene foam, but already made in the form of a kind of wallpaper - there is a layer of paper on both sides. Polyfoam and is designed for gluing wallpaper on it.
Of course, its thermal insulation properties are not as high as those of penofol, but to make a cold wall feel warmer to the touch, they are quite enough.
In most cases, the insignificant thickness of the insulation does not lead to the dew point moving to the inner surface.
The disadvantage of this method is that only a dry wall is insulated.
Insulation with expanded polystyrene
Expanded polystyrene (or extruded polystyrene foam) is glued to a prepared and leveled wall. Both materials have very low water absorption (especially extruded polystyrene foam), so the formation of condensate in the insulation layer is excluded. The main danger is its appearance on the surface of the insulated wall.
Therefore, it is best to glue sheets on special hydrophobic adhesive mixtures applied over the entire surface of the sheets. And to prevent the penetration of water vapor from the side of the room, treat the seams with sealant (you can also use foam plastic with a step or a tenon-groove connection).
Finishing can be done in two ways:
- mesh reinforcement and plastering;
- sheathing with panels on a supporting frame fixed to the floor, ceiling and adjoining walls (false plasterboard wall).
Warming with mineral wool
Mineral wool does not meet the requirements for vapor permeability and water absorption for insulation from the inside. But it can be used.
The main thing is to provide maximum protection from moist air from the side of the room and the weathering of water vapor from the insulation layer. That is, to make a ventilated facade, but in the reverse order: wall, gap, vapor-permeable membrane, mineral wool, vapor barrier film, decorative cladding indoors.
It is necessary to create a false wall at a distance of 2-3 cm from the main wall. And to weather the water vapor from below and above, make ventilation holes.
Many would probably like to know how to insulate an apartment with their own hands. Old Soviet-built houses are mostly poorly insulated. The central heating systems are very worn out. About how to properly perform such work, and we will talk later in the article.
Stages of warming
How to prepare an apartment for winter? The order of work in this case should be as follows:
- Insulation of windows and doors.
- Replacement of old heating radiators.
- Wall insulation.
- Insulation of the ceiling and floor.
- Efficient ventilation device.
So, let's figure out how to insulate an apartment, in more detail.
Window insulation with rubber bands
The answer to the question of how to insulate an apartment depends, among other things, on how tight the windows are in it. Of course, dry wooden structures it is best to replace with new plastic ones. However, sometimes it happens that the funds for this are not enough. In this case, you will have to insulate the old windows. How to do it right? There are several methods for isolating such structures:
- Use of rubber seals.
- Seal gaps between frames.
- Sticking with strips of fabric, paper or tape.
Rubber seals are sold in hardware stores and are narrow tapes made of foam rubber or one of the varieties of soft polymer. Warming with their help is extremely simple. The tape is attached to the frame by means of an adhesive layer on it. When performing this procedure, you need to try not to stretch the material.
caulk insulation
Having wondered how to insulate the apartment inside, you should also pay attention to the gaps between the frames and the opening. Sometimes they are very wide. Using a sealant in this case may not help. Large gaps are best sealed. To do this, you can use rags, pieces of foam rubber, or even just paper. On top of the caulk, all surfaces should be sealed with masking tape or tape.
Use of putty for sealing windows
There is another answer to the question of how to properly insulate an apartment by sealing windows. You can close the gaps using putties specially designed for this. Such mixtures are applied using B Lately transparent sealants are also often used to insulate windows. The technology of insulation in this case is no different from the method of insulation with ordinary alabaster putty. In the event that the sealant accidentally gets on the glass, it is not necessary to wash it. Remove it with a sharp blade after solidification.
Replacement of heating radiators
It is also cold in high-rise buildings due to the low efficiency of old heating radiators. Therefore, having wondered how to insulate an apartment, of course, you should also think about replacing them. Do this in the warm season, before the start of the heating season. The order of work in this case is as follows:
- Cut off old radiators.
- Marking is done on the wall, brackets are nailed.
- The new battery is hung on the wall. Nuts included in the kit are screwed onto all its four outlet pipes.
- Further, inlet and outlet taps are screwed to two of them (diagonally at the top and bottom), with tow winding and thread coating with paste.
- Opposite the first reverse side radiator, a Mayevsky crane is installed.
- The remaining branch pipe is closed with a special plug.
The method of connecting radiators described above is called diagonal. There are also side and bottom mounts. In the first case, both taps - both inlet and outlet - are screwed on one side of the battery, at the top and bottom. The air release device and the plug, respectively, are installed on the other. When connecting to the bottom, both valves are attached to the right and left to the lower branch pipes. The Mayevsky crane is always installed opposite the element supplying the coolant.
How to increase the efficiency of heating batteries
How to insulate an apartment with your own hands by replacing heating radiators, you now know. Here are some tips on how to make their work more efficient. So:
- If it is cold in your apartment, in no case should you cover the batteries with decorative panels.
- When radiators are placed in too deep niches under the windows, they will heat much worse.
- The battery should be about 5 cm from the wall, and not less than 10 cm from the floor and window sill.
Wall insulation with mineral wool
Thus, we have considered how to insulate an apartment from the inside by sealing windows and a balcony door, as well as replacing heating radiators. Next, consider how to properly insulate walls. This procedure consists of several stages:
- The walls are thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt.
- The crate is mounted under the drywall sheets. The easiest way to make it is from a beam of width corresponding to the thickness of the insulation.
- Between the purlins, mineral wool slabs are inserted by surprise.
- Further, they are additionally fixed to the wall with dowels - "fungi".
- On top of the mounted insulation boards, it is stretched. Unfortunately, it is located inside the walls themselves when insulating the room from the inside. Therefore, the insulating material must be carefully protected against the formation of condensation on it. For this purpose, vapor barriers are used. It can be an ordinary thick polyethylene film or some of its modern substitutes. The vapor barrier strips are fixed horizontally, starting from the bottom. Fix them to the crate with thin bars.
- Next, drywall sheets are mounted on the resulting counter-lattice.
- At the final stage, the walls are painted or wallpapered.
Surface insulation with polystyrene foam
There is another answer to the question of how to insulate an apartment from the inside by lining the walls. This can be done with rigid polystyrene foam boards. The walls are also thoroughly cleaned, degreased and primed. Then they are glued on. In this case, special adhesives designed for foam plastics are used. In this case, the crate is not stuffed. Plates are fixed to the wall apart. Begin installation from the bottom - from the floor. At the corners of the slab, cut to the required width. sharp knife. In addition to the walls, they are fixed with “fungus” dowels. Next close up with white mounting foam all joints. After that, the surface of the walls is covered with a special adhesive, into which the reinforcing is pressed. At the final stage, the walls are finished with decorative or ordinary plaster.
Use of Styrofoam
Sometimes the insulation of apartments is carried out with foam. This material has a low degree of thermal conductivity and is very inexpensive. The answer to the question of how to insulate an apartment with foam plastic is also not too complicated. The procedure for performing work in this case is exactly the same as when insulating surfaces with polystyrene foam. The only thing is that you need to handle foam sheets as carefully as possible. The problem is that they can be broken very easily.
How to insulate the ceiling
Of course, the answer to the question of how to effectively insulate an apartment inside also depends on how well it can hold. This is especially true for apartments located on the top floors. The method is absolutely no different from the wall insulation method. The only thing - in this case, you need to pay maximum attention to fixing the plates to the surface. If you can not use dowels - "fungi" when insulating the walls, then when installing the insulator to the ceiling, their use is considered mandatory. Otherwise, the plates will simply fall.
How to insulate the floor
The question of how to insulate an apartment with your own hands, if it is located on the ground floor, also comes down to how to isolate the floors. To do this, first remove the fine finish. Next, remove the old boards. The opened logs must be smeared with antifungal and refractory compounds that increase the refractory properties of wood. Then, insulation boards are laid between them. It can be used as mineral wool, and polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. The thickness of the insulation should be slightly less than the width of the lag. This is necessary so that eventually a ventilation gap remains between it and the new floorboard. At the next stage, a vapor barrier is mounted on top of the insulation. Attach it to the logs on thin slats (two on each side). Next, proceed to stuffing the board.
In the event that you wondered how to insulate a corner apartment, wall, floor and ceiling insulation would be the best answer to it. The fact is that in such premises the structures freeze through much more than in ordinary ones. This is especially true for corners.
Ventilation device
So, how to insulate a cold apartment, you now know. However, after the walls, floor and ceiling are insulated, the room may become stuffy and damp. Therefore, at the final stage, you should definitely take care of the device for effective ventilation. by the most simple option there will be a purchase of a ready-made system. However, such equipment is very expensive. Therefore, in the standard small apartment you can use a slightly different method of ventilation. To do this, before installing the insulation in the outer walls under the windows, holes are drilled with a diameter of about 10 cm. Exactly the same will need to be done in the “pie” of the wall insulation.
It is very easy to check the correct operation of the common house ventilation shaft. To do this, you will need to bring a lit lighter to the grates in the kitchen and toilet. If the flame begins to noticeably deviate from the vertical axis, then everything is in order. The ventilation is working properly. If this does not happen, you will have to contact the management company and call specialists for verification.
We hope that now you more or less understand how to insulate an apartment in a high-rise building with your own hands correctly. Having completed all the activities described above, you can make your home as comfortable as possible for living in the cold season.
How to insulate an apartment from the outside
Since the method of isolation from the outside is considered much more effective, despite the complexity of implementation, sometimes it is also used for insulation. However, such a procedure can be carried out independently only when the apartment is located on the first or in last resort On the second floor. To isolate the premises located above, you will have to call specialists. Next, consider how to insulate an apartment from the outside in stages:
- First of all, a crate is stuffed on the walls.
- Further, heat insulator plates are inserted between the bars.
- The walls are being covered waterproofing film with fastening on bars.
- Siding in progress.
When installing insulation boards, it is very important to make sure that they cover all joints around the perimeter of the apartment.
If you have even the slightest opportunity to insulate the walls from the outside - do it. This is the most the best way, because the insulation of walls from the inside is a headache. There are only two correct and more or less acceptable options, and then, one takes up a lot of space, and the second requires significant costs during the winter. There is another way suitable for warming balconies and loggias. And for now, that's all. All other options with mounting foam, liquid ceramic thermal insulation, penofol and other materials bring only dampness and mold.
Wall insulation from the inside: what's the problem
Everyone who insulated the outer walls of a house or apartment with inside- from the room - they face the problem of the appearance of fungi, mold and high humidity. These consequences are natural, and appear regardless of the type of insulation that was used. You can get rid of moisture and fungi only by removing the internal insulation by making overhaul walls, treating them with antifungal compounds and plastering.
Let's look at the reasons. The so-called dew point is to blame. This is the line where warm and cold air meet, and where, as a result, condensation forms.
The figure on the left shows the situation with the dew point if the wall is not insulated. It is located somewhere in the thickness of the wall, depending on temperature and humidity, it shifts either one way or the other, but it is always far enough from the inner surface. In this case, moisture accumulates in the wall, freezes. In the spring, as it thaws, it evaporates, and evaporates into the atmosphere. In the room, if dampness is observed, then for a short time and at the level of sensations.
In the center, the photo shows a situation where the wall is insulated from the inside. In this case, condensate falls in the insulation, or, if this is not possible (expanded polystyrene is used, for example), at the border of the insulation and the wall. Even if the wall freezes and the condensate turns into ice, it will melt in the spring, the insulation, wall material and finish will get wet. Since there is a large distance to the outer surface facing the street, moisture dries in this case very badly, which “climbs out” in the form of dampness, mold and all the accompanying delights.
And the third option is to insulate the wall from the outside. In this case, the dew point is in the insulation. How to get it out of there is another story (making a ventilated facade or choosing the right vapor permeability of materials), but for our topic it is important to understand that in this case the wall inside the room will definitely be dry and warm.
Summing up, we can say, if possible, make insulation from the outside. Wall insulation from the inside of the premises has to be done only in a few cases:
- if they are not allowed to be insulated from the outside (the building is a historical monument or a ban by local authorities);
- if the wall goes into a joint between two buildings;
- the wall opens into an elevator shaft.
But before you start this work, inspect the floor, ceiling, windows well. Sometimes most of the heat leaves not through the walls, but through these surfaces, and it is easier to insulate them (in the sense, there is less trouble with the dew point).
Proper internal wall insulation in a house or apartment
There are only two ways to insulate the walls in the rooms from the inside and not get a problem in the form of dampness:
- recreating a multi-layer wall (place a half-brick wall with insulation at some distance);
- make the wall heated, and then insulate it.
These options work, but as you can see, they "eat up" a significant amount of space and cost decent money. In each case, it is necessary to consider what kind of insulation and how much is needed, but the wall cake remains the same.
Second wall
At some distance from the main wall, a second wall is installed with a thickness of 10-12 cm. Between the two walls, a layer of insulation is attached to the inner one, which is required for these conditions. At the same time, up to outer wall there should be a ventilation gap of at least 3 cm. In total, this entire structure will be 20-25 cm away from the main wall. It will “eat” a very considerable area.
As you can see, in this case, the dew point can be located inside the insulation or on the inner surface of the wall facing the street. To be able to remove the formed moisture, you can make forced ventilation by installing one or two exhaust fans.
Since in this case the insulation will get wet, it is necessary to choose one that is not afraid of moisture. These are polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, foamed glass. You can also use some types stone wool, but only those that are not afraid of moisture (there are some).
fasten thermal insulation material It is necessary simultaneously with the construction of walls. They laid it out to a certain height, fixed the thermal insulation. It is inconvenient to work, but there is no other way out.
Heating with electricity
The idea of this method is to internal insulation concrete or brick wall move the dew point inside the wall. To do this, it must be heated. The easiest way is to attach an electric floor heating mat. At some distance from it, a heater is installed, on top of which there is a finishing layer.
In this case, there are no problems with the removal of moisture, and much less space is required for the installation of the system: from 8 cm (with a ventilation gap of 3 cm and a heater thickness of 5 cm).
With this method, the heat-insulating material can be any. To install it, first a crate is made, then a counter-crate, and a suitable insulation is already attached to it.
Option for warming the balcony from the inside
In the case of a loggia and a balcony, the situation is often quite different. If the authorities do not allow the installation of a wall, they demand that the existing reinforced concrete screen be left, it is cut off from the warm air with careful thermal insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS).
In this case, it is better to make the insulation redundant than at least slightly insufficient. The total thickness is divided into two layers. They are laid without a gap (preferably with locks), and so that the seams of the first layer overlap the sheet of the second. There should be no through access of warm air to the screen.
Very carefully it is necessary to approach the issue of warming the floor and ceiling of the loggia / balcony, to ensure tightness at their junction with the walls. Also pay attention to how the glazing will be installed: there may also be problem areas: the joint with the screen, walls, the insulation of the part above the frames. All of them must be well finished, excluding the possibility of contact between warm / cold air. In this case, there will be no problems. Even .
If you have to pay round sums for heating or the apartment is cold and damp, then there is a clear problem that the heat does not linger inside. The most logical thing would be to insulate the wall in the apartment from the inside, and for a simple layman, this is associated with complex installation work. However, it is not always necessary to use any special tools.
Pros and cons of insulating an apartment from the inside
Professional builders do not get tired of arguing about how to insulate the walls in the apartment. Some of them argue that insulating from the inside is a waste of money, while others claim that thermal insulation material brings good results. However, both agree that wall insulation from the outside is much more effective than from the inside.
But how to insulate a wall in an apartment for those who live in high-rise buildings, where thin walls freeze through in winter? After all, it is often simply impossible to insulate such a house from the outside. In addition, it is impossible to insulate houses in the historical center, with the close location of the apartment to the elevator shaft, and many more reasons are contraindications to this type of insulation. Therefore, there is only one option, the pros and cons of which have long been known.
The disadvantages of insulation inside most often include:
- on average, the area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment is reduced by 0.5–2 square meters;
- at the time of work it is necessary to completely vacate the premises;
- it is necessary to provide for many additional measures: ventilation, protection of the heat insulator, etc.;
- the formation of fungus or mold.
The advantages of this type of insulation are:
- low cost;
- the ability to work at any time of the year;
- accessibility (you can install it yourself).
The good news is that if the insulation is carried out in compliance with all the rules, then most of the stated disadvantages can be avoided.
How to avoid damage to interior finishes?
Before you start dealing with the consequences of improper insulation, you should understand the causes of the problems.
At a certain temperature, water vapor condenses from the air. This temperature is called the "construction dew point", at which condensation occurs on cool surfaces i.e. water droplets.
According to the norms, the air temperature in residential premises should be at least 22 and not more than 27 degrees Celsius. In this case, the dew point is 10.7 degrees Celsius. Simply put, if you insulate the walls and they reach the dew point, condensation will definitely appear. Where exactly it will be depends on many factors. For example, if it is cold outside, it will move further away from the facade.
Condensation negates the effect of insulation, moreover, mold appears on the walls. So, task number one is dry walls. To achieve this is quite realistic, the main thing is to follow a few rules:
- for warming choose the highest quality materials, when connecting the vapor barrier film, seal the joints;
- pay attention to the vapor permeability of the insulation, the lower it is, the better. If the vapor permeability of the wall is higher than that of the heat insulator, then the steam will go outside;
- when gluing the insulation, it should not lag behind the wall. To do this, it is best to use a comb;
- put valves on the windows to reduce the humidity in the room;
- calculate the thickness of the insulating layer, taking into account the characteristics of the climatic zone. The insulation should not be thinner than this value;
- before warming treat the walls with a special compound which prevents mold and mildew. Start warming after the walls are dry.
It is worth considering that where the floors are connected to bearing walls, insulation can not be carried out. A heat insulator is applied to these places using a vapor barrier, then they are masked using false columns, etc.
How to choose a heater?
Every year more and more new building materials. Some of them are suitable for warming apartments, but there are three proven heaters, the pros and cons of which are well studied:
- mineral wool;
- expanded polystyrene;
- polyurethane foam.
Many of us have heard that it is possible to insulate an apartment from the inside with mineral wool. No wonder, after all this material is quite easy to work with: enough to lay it inside drywall construction. Most often, the work is done quickly, the material is chosen the cheapest, the vapor barrier is neglected. The result is the same: it does more harm than good. Ordinary mineral wool in rolls has a very low coefficient of thermal resistance.
The positive thing is that she seems to "breathe". On the other hand, moisture penetrates through the wool fibers to the dew point, and then it is absorbed into the material. Of course, there are more expensive and quality options, but if you insulate with ordinary cheap mineral wool, then it does not guarantee dryness.
To reduce the risk of moisture ingress, don't skimp on insulation and glue the most quality glue. If smudges appear on the walls, or, even more so, a fungus, then all the insulation work will have to be redone.
Styrofoam
Expanded polystyrene is considered one of the the best heaters for walls from the inside. It is increasingly used both in Russia and abroad. This material has all the necessary properties to displace mineral wool and become the most popular insulation of all.
Expanded polystyrene does not conduct heat well and does not absorb moisture, while it has low vapor permeability. It easily copes with loads, can survive strong compressions and tears, while being very light and pliable: it can even be cut with a knife. Therefore, the installation of insulation will not be a problem.
Respectively, a thin layer of expanded polystyrene will solve the problem with insulation and will not allow moisture to reach the dew point. The only negative is that it does not protect against noise and is destroyed at temperatures above 80 degrees Celsius. The latter, as a rule, is irrelevant for the weather conditions in Russia.
polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam is latest material, which is designed to quickly and efficiently solve the problem of wall insulation from the inside. Moisture cannot penetrate the material, so it does not get wet. Moreover, it does not need to be glued, it is enough to spray on the wall. Thanks to this, seams and joints are not formed, even a room with curved corners will look perfect.
Of course, the material has its downsides. Most often, the first thing consumers pay attention to is the price. Polyurethane foam - rather expensive heater Moreover, installation work is also expensive. In addition, if it catches fire, it will smoke heavily and release various toxic substances. When exposed to it, UV quickly decomposes into products that can cause great harm to health in a few years.
Self-insulation of the wall from the inside
Since expanded polystyrene is available and quality material, it will be used as an example. Before you start insulating the walls, you need to prepare their surfaces. Depending on whether the walls are covered with something or not, you need to carry out a few simple steps.
If the walls are already pasted over, painted or covered finishing materials, then it follows:
- remove wallpaper or paint;
- primed;
- wait until the primer dries;
- putty;
- let the putty dry.
If the walls are not covered with anything, then:
- primed;
- level the wall with plaster;
- putty;
- let the putty dry.
It is possible to insulate the walls only after the putty is completely dry. It usually takes from 2 to 6 hours, the exact time is indicated on the package. Then you should knead the glue, there is always an instruction on the mixture. Then take a notched trowel and apply glue to the styrofoam, make sure the layer is even. Install the insulation in the desired position and check that there are no air pockets. Sealant is applied to the ends. Then, when all the sheets are ready, the glue should harden.
Now start applying the finish coat:
- apply a thin layer of construction mixture with a thickness of approximately 2-5mm;
- until the mixture has solidified attach reinforcing mesh; it should sink into the mixture, you can use a notched trowel. The mesh will protect the plastered walls from cracks;
- apply the solution and level the surface with a spatula;
- sand the wall every other day so that there are no bumps. There will be a lot of dust, you should take care of respiratory protection.
When installing, try to glue the sheets so as to avoid gaps. This will prevent moisture from penetrating the wall and prevent condensation from forming. If the gaps still remain, use the mounting film to blow them out.
After completing the work, do not forget to regularly ventilate the room. Warming may lead to poor ventilation conditions. which will be harmful to health. To maintain a healthy microclimate, ventilate the rooms daily. Such care will certainly give its results and the room will remain dry and warm.
