How to insulate a bath with stone wool. Insulation of the bath from the inside - scheme

The internal insulation of the bath is one of the most important stages in the arrangement of this building. Without high-quality thermal insulation, the owner will have to spend much more resources on heating the steam room, and the very situation in the bath without properly installed protection will leave much to be desired.

Since ancient times in Russia, moss, felt and even flax have been used to insulate baths, mainly due to the lack of other heaters - vegetable fiber either rots or dries, therefore today it is not used for basic thermal insulation.

The main difference between warming a bath and a similar event in an ordinary house is simple: in the steam room you need to keep the heat for as long as possible, i.e. high temperatures should remain indoors for as long as possible.

Thermal insulation work in the bath can be carried out using a wide variety of materials. For example, the ideal solution is modern insulation based on stone wool coated with a foil coating - it does not burn, withstanding temperatures up to 750 degrees, effectively retains heat, does not rot, is not of interest to rodents.

After reviewing the information below, you will get a complete theoretical understanding of the process of performing internal insulation of a steam room, as well as study step-by-step instructions for self-assembly thermal insulation materials.

We warm the bath from the inside: what do we need?

Any construction, repair and finishing activities begin with the preparation of materials, without which the implementation of the planned work will simply be impossible. Pay due attention to the study of the list below: it is better to spend a little time reading and buy everything you need right away than to return to the store and buy more of what you forgot.

insulation

The main component of the list under consideration. The modern market offers the widest range of thermal insulation materials, but not every one of them is suitable for use in a steam room - humidity and temperature can be too tough. For warming the bath, the most commonly used are: expanded clay (floor insulation), materials based on stone wool, and expanded polystyrene.

Important! It is strongly not recommended to use foam plastic for warming the steam room directly - at high temperatures, a material of dubious quality can most likely release substances harmful to human health.

Comparative characteristics of the mentioned materials are given in the following table.

Table. Comparison of popular bath heaters

Evaluation criterion Expanded clay

Structure	Bulk material of natural origin. Presented in the form of granules with a cellular structure.	fibrous structure. The arrangement of fibers is both vertical and horizontal, disordered.	Open cell structure.
moisture permeability	The material does not pass water.	Mineral wool insulation has practically no tendency to absorb moisture.	Moisture permeability is extremely low.
Weight	Easy	Medium-light	Easy
Strength	high	Medium
Compressive strength	high	From low to medium, depending on the specific type of material and manufacturer's technologies.	Medium
Toxicity	The material is safe	No toxic properties	Over time, it begins to release harmful substances
Can be used under high load conditions	Suitable	Depending on the brand of material	not suitable
prone to decay	The material retains its original integrity for a long time	Durable insulation	Has a tendency to break down
UV resistance	Doesn't react to sunlight	Features high UV resistance	Long-term direct contact with sunlight has an extremely negative effect on the performance of the material.

As noted, expanded clay is suitable for warming bath floors. Bulk material allows you to provide the required thermal insulation of both wooden and concrete structures. Mineral wool insulation is optimally suited for insulating both walls and ceilings. The best option, as noted, is a stone wool-based heat-insulating material equipped with an additional foil coating - the key characteristics of such heaters are at a higher level.

In accordance with the current provisions of the technology for carrying out the work in question, the joints of the insulation boards must be glued with foil tape. This will create a sealed surface with the highest possible thermal insulation properties.

The elements of the heat-insulating coating are placed in the cells of a pre-mounted crate, for the assembly of which wooden bars are used. Select the cross section of the bars in accordance with the thickness of the thermal insulation. For example, if you are equipping a 10 cm thermal insulation layer, use bars with a similar thickness or width to assemble the frame.

Choose the distance between the bars 1-2 cm less than the width of the plates or the insulation roll. For bulk materials optimal distance between the bars - 45-60 cm.

Fixing the elements of the crate (bars) is carried out using dowels / self-tapping screws (if the surface is wooden) or anchors (if the base is stone). The length of the fasteners is also selected in accordance with the base material: for wood - 2-2.5 cm, for capital structures - from 4 cm.

The specific length of fasteners is determined in accordance with the characteristics of their use. For example, during the installation of the crate, the fasteners must be of such length that high-quality fixation of the timber / profile of the selected section is ensured. The cross section of the beam itself, as well as the profile parameters, are determined in accordance with the thickness of the heat-insulating layer to be equipped.

Additional materials

If the bath is insulated with a material other than foil mineral wool, you will additionally have to purchase a hydro-vapor barrier film.

If a concrete screed is planned to be poured, the work set will increase to include the items listed below:

• reinforcing mesh;
• mixture for pouring the screed or materials for its self-preparation (cement, sand, water);
• lighthouses;
• damper tape;
• polyethylene.

The floors in the bath can be wooden or concrete. The technology for arranging the directly heat-insulating layer does not have any special differences depending on the material for making the floor, except that in the case of a concrete structure, more expanded clay will have to be poured.

The thickness of the backfill is usually determined in accordance with the thickness of the walls. On average, a layer of expanded clay is poured at least 2 times thicker than the walls. If the height of the room allows, the thickness of the backfill can be further increased - this will help increase the efficiency of insulation.

Previously, for greater convenience of work and subsequently more accurate control of the evenness of the backfill, mark the base. To do this, it is enough to divide it with parallel lines into sections up to 1 m wide or along the length of the rule you use.

Important! If you are insulating the floor on the ground, at the very beginning, even before marking, you must do the following:

• carefully tamp the ground inside the base (if the foundation design assumes the presence of “free” soil, for example, in the case of strip supports);
• cover the walls with impregnation for waterproofing;
• fill the soil with a 10-centimeter layer of sand, spill it with water and carefully tamp;
• cover the sand with roofing material with a 15-centimeter overlap on the walls. Lay individual sheets of roofing material also with a 15 cm overlap. For fastening, use waterproof construction tape.

Directly the procedure for warming the floor with expanded clay with illustrations and the necessary explanations is given in the following table.

Table. Bath floor insulation with expanded clay

StageIllustrationRequired explanations

	The film must be stretched so that its edges along the wall are above the floor level. If the base is already covered with roofing material, there is no need to lay the film.
	For example, a profile for drywall is well suited. The guides are set in accordance with the previously applied markings and fixed in a suitable way, for example, screws or nails.
	Set the beacons according to the level. In the future, these accessories will help you fill the most even layer of expanded clay, which will ensure best quality execution of further planned activities. Determine the installation height of the guides in accordance with the required thickness of the heat-insulating layer. Many developers do without guides, but this is a less convenient and accurate option.
We pour expanded clay		The previously installed guides will help to do this as efficiently as possible.
	For leveling, we use a rule or an ordinary rail of a suitable length.
	For greater convenience of leveling the insulation, we can use various auxiliary devices. For example, in large areas, a rake will come in handy.

The floor is insulated and ready for further development in accordance with the developer's plans. At the discretion of the owner, additional heat-insulating material, for example, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, can be laid on top of expanded clay.

As an example, a diagram of a concrete floor, equipped with expanded clay for thermal insulation, is given.

Video - Floor insulation with expanded clay

Insulation of bath walls and ceiling

Wall insulation schemes will vary somewhat depending on the material of manufacture. Information about this is presented in the following table.

Table. Wall insulation schemes

Production materialScheme

1 - wall, 2 - thermal insulation, 3 - lathing, 4 - sheathing, 5 - ventilation gap.

The sequence of thermal insulation work remains the same for walls made of any materials: if necessary, a hydrovapor barrier film is attached, lathing bars are mounted, insulation is placed in the formed cells, another layer of hydrovapor barrier is fixed on top (if necessary), lathing laths are nailed for finishing sheathing (at the same time they will provide the necessary ventilation gap), the selected finishing material(usually lining).

The ceiling is insulated in a similar sequence. An example of a ceiling thermal insulation scheme is shown in the following image.

Information regarding step-by-step warming walls and ceiling of the bath is shown in the following table.

Important! Insulation will be carried out with a mineral wool material with a foil layer, which eliminates the need for preliminary fastening of a hydrovapor barrier material to the surface. The order of work is considered on the example of wooden surfaces. In a relationship concrete walls and ceilings, the recommendations are the same, the only thing is that you need to use other fasteners and for greater convenience, wooden guides can be replaced with a metal profile.

Table. The procedure for insulating walls and ceilings in the bath from the inside

Stage of workIllustrationRequired explanations

	Information regarding the elements used to arrange the frame, as well as fasteners for fixing the guides in different cases, was given earlier. The installation step of the guides is selected in accordance with the width of the insulation. As a standard, this is about 60 cm, it can be reduced to 59-59.5 cm so that the heat-insulating elements lie as tightly as possible.
Slab laying rules		We must first put on gloves - the contact of “bare” skin with mineral wool does not deliver the most pleasant sensations. The foil material is laid with foil inside the room - thanks to this, the heat will not only be retained, but also additionally reflected into the steam room.
	The slabs are installed by surprise into the frame and do not require additional mechanical fastening.
Installation of plates on the wall	Installation of plates on the wall	The sequence and recommendations for wall and ceiling insulation are similar. To insulate the partition separating the steam room from the adjacent room, a layer 50 mm thick is usually sufficient.
	The thermal insulation of the outer wall requires a thicker layer - 100-150 mm (in regions with a particularly cold climate - up to 200 mm).
	In order to save money, the insulation can be made two-layer, equipping one layer of ordinary mineral wool, and the second, which will “look” into the room, from a foil-coated material.
	The use of such a heater, as noted, eliminates the need for additional waterproofing materials.
	Having filled the frame with heat-insulating plates, we glue the seams and joints with foil tape.
	A 1-2 cm gap is enough. The outer trim will be attached to the same crate in the future. Important! The order of further installation of the lining depends on the location of the rails: if the rails are fixed vertically, the lining must be fixed horizontally, and vice versa.
	The best material for inner lining baths is lining. The choice of material for the manufacture of the skin is at the discretion of the owner. The fixing of the cladding elements is traditionally performed using screws / self-tapping screws.

Video - Insulation of walls and ceiling from the inside

Now you know everything about how to properly insulate a bath with your own hands using the most optimal heat-insulating materials for this. The information obtained will help you cope with the planned events on your own, eliminating the need to contact third-party masters and saving significantly.

Successful work!

Video - Insulation of the bath from the inside scheme

Warming the walls of the bath from the inside with your own hands

The bath insulation technology involves three successive stages: insulation of the ceiling, then walls and, last but not least, the floor. The technology, in general, is the same for any type of building, but there are some features. In this article, we will try to figure out how to properly insulate the walls in the bath.

Scheme of the "pie" of warming the walls of the bath from the inside

Before starting work, be sure to eliminate all the flaws: seal and insulate the cracks, treat the walls with flame retardants and antiseptics, if you see fit, check the tightness of the joints, etc. After completion of the preparatory work, you can proceed with the installation of thermal insulation.

The pie itself looks like this:

• a wall on which bars are stuffed;
• heat insulator laid between the bars;
• vapor barrier;
• a crate of slats that holds materials and serves to mount the finish.

Step 1. A crate of bars is attached to the walls into which a heat insulator is tightly inserted. The thickness of the bars should correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation. A vapor barrier is attached to the bars, which, as a rule, use aluminum foil. After the foil, a crate is attached under the lining with a thickness of 20-3 ohm, and then the walls are sheathed with a lining.

Main conclusions:

1. It is not necessary to leave a gap between the insulation and aluminum foil in the bath;
2. It is desirable to leave a gap between the aluminum foil (or other foil material) and the lining so that the condensate can flow down freely. Otherwise, the lining will rot very quickly.

Between the bars we tightly lay the heat insulator. The thickness of the insulation corresponds to the thickness of the bars

You also need to decide on the direction in which the bars will be nailed to the wall. They can be nailed vertically and horizontally. And there is constant debate about how best to do it. Some builders claim that with a horizontal location of the heat insulator, and hence the bars, there is less heat loss. Their opponents say that ventilation is better with a vertical arrangement. More importantly, everyone chooses for himself, as well as whether or not the bars need to be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

Advice! It makes sense to think not about how to fix the bars, but first of all about how the lining will be attached: horizontally or vertically. It is more practical to mount the lining horizontally. In this case, the condensate, which will inevitably form on the vapor barrier, will be able to flow down unhindered, so the crate under the lining will be mounted vertically.

The step of stuffing the bars, under the insulation, is determined by the width of the selected heat insulator: the distance between the bars should be approximately 1 cm less than the actual width of the insulation(in this case, the insulation will fit snugly against the bars).

Advice! Be sure to measure the width of the insulation before attaching the bars. Do not trust the data on the packaging: firstly, there may be factory deviations, and secondly, during storage and transportation, the edges may wrinkle, thereby reducing the actual width. Any gap and loosely fitting heat insulator is a place where cold will penetrate and condensation will form. These areas are also called cold bridges.

Step 2 Between the stuffed bars, tightly, without gaps, with little effort, a heater is laid. With the right distance between the bars, the heat insulator holds itself well, but to be sure, you can fix it with hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel screws and washers of large diameter (read this article about the choice of fastening materials for the bath).

If a foil heat insulator is chosen, to ensure tightness, close each connection with a patch of aluminum tape, and on top you need to fix another piece of adhesive-backed foil - tightness is very important: most heat insulators lose their properties in the presence of moisture. For example, the thermal conductivity of wet basalt wool is much greater than dry. For this reason, the insulation must not be allowed to get wet.

Also, carefully in this case, you need to approach the sealing of the joints of the foil insulation and the bars: they need to be glued with the same foil tape, ensuring that they enter at least 5 cm both on the insulation and on the bar.

For a steam room, foil is considered the best material to prevent moisture from penetrating into the insulation. It not only retains moisture well, but also reflects heat back into the room, greatly reducing its loss. If you choose such material, the time required to heat the room will significantly decrease, the costs of maintaining the required temperature will decrease, the stove will work in a more gentle mode, which means it will last longer.

In other rooms, you can lay any other material that is suitable for performance.

The strips of the selected material are laid so that they overlap by at least 5 cm. All joints are additionally carefully glued with foil tape, which is sold in the same place as the vapor barrier. Attach it to the bars with staples and a construction stapler. To maintain tightness and prevent steam from entering the thermal insulation, it is advisable to glue the joints with the same foil tape.

The video below shows how insulation is laid in a Finnish sauna and covered with aluminum foil.

When insulating the ceiling, there should be a "sunset" of the heat and vapor barrier on the walls. When installing wall insulation, put it on top of the wall “pie”, and then carefully seal the joints (use foil tape again).

Step 3 After the installation of the "pie" is completed, a crate of planks is stuffed onto the protruding bars. It will hold the materials, and will also serve as the basis for attaching the interior trim.

This is how the wall may look after the completion of all work: 1 - insulation, 2 - vapor barrier, 3 - lining

Features of wall insulation from different materials

The technology and sequence of insulation layers remains virtually unchanged for various rooms and types of buildings. Only some parameters can be changed. For example, for a steam room, the thickness of the insulation is recommended twice as much as for other rooms: it is here that it is very important to retain heat for the maximum amount of time.

The thickness of the insulation also differs for buildings made of different materials. A log bath itself holds heat well, and when finishing all rooms except for a steam room, you can do without a heater at all, or choose a material of small thickness - if the winters in your region are harsh.

The video below explains why there is no need to additionally insulate the walls of a log bath (the plot of the program "Estate").

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath from the inside practically no different, except for the methods of fastening: it is more difficult to hammer nails into a brick wall, you can use dowels. You can use galvanized profiles instead of wooden bars, but when buying them, pay attention to the fact that they are suitable for use in rooms with high humidity. And with the choice of sizes it is much more difficult here: there are not so many standard sizes, and metal can become a conductor of cold. Insulation of the brick walls of the bath from the inside implies a greater thickness of thermal insulation than in a log bath: minimum - 10cm, but this parameter depends on many factors: wall thickness, external insulation, region, etc.

Insulation of the walls of the bath from foam blocks the composition of the "pie" is no different. The whole difficulty is that this material does not hold fasteners well, even special ones. It is no better than he tolerates excessive loads. Therefore, when choosing materials, pay attention to their weight. It should be one of the decisive factors.

The fastening of the crate must be done so that the main load falls on the floor, and not on the walls. To do this, you can make U-shaped structures that are attached to the floor and ceiling, just fix their position in the walls with a pair of dowels.

Advice! To further reduce the load on foam concrete walls, you can not fasten the planks tightly to the wall, but make clamps from pieces of galvanized steel that will only hold the slats in a vertical state. The entire load will be on the floor.

The insulation between the slats should be laid tightly, and you can fix it so that it does not fall with the help of a thread and a stapler (shoot the thread to the slats). A vapor barrier or vapor barrier can also be attached to the planks with staples, but do not forget to overlap the panels, glue and seal the joints with foil tape, and cover the staples with patches.

The last stage of warming the walls of the bath from foam blocks is the installation of the crate for interior decoration. This is a similar frame of U-shaped sections, the load from which is distributed mainly on the floor. This frame is attached to the first one in several places to the bars.

This is just one solution that allows you to insulate the walls of the bath from foam blocks, but it is simple in execution and quite reliable.

Bath insulation materials

The choice of material for insulation is a rather complicated process: it is necessary to take into account not only the technical characteristics of heaters, but also their environmental friendliness, harmlessness, and fire safety. It is especially problematic to correctly select a heater for a steam room, since it has not only high humidity, but also a high temperature, which causes the release of toxic substances from some types of heaters.

Classic mineral wool

Not so long ago, almost everyone advised using baths for warming mineral wool, but latest research showed that in production, a composition containing phenol-formaldehyde resins. They have a harmful effect on a person, are a carcinogen, which in itself is unacceptable, and in a bath or sauna with its high temperature, it is generally very dangerous. Yes, the certificates indicate that the release of these substances does not exceed the threshold, but do you need it?

Even Rockwool or TechnoNIKOL basalt wool, any other mineral wool from well-known or not manufacturers, emits phenol-formaldehyde substances. In general, according to physicians and experts, any mineral wool is harmful to health. In this regard, the question arises: "what is the best way to insulate the bath?". There are several materials about which there are no negative opinions. Anyway, until...

Mineral heaters of a new generation

URSA PUREONE material is presented as a new generation of mineral insulation. Acrylic is used as a binder - a chemically neutral substance that does not react with other substances and does not emit harmful substances under any operating conditions.

The safety of URSA PUREONE has been confirmed by the EcoStandard group (classified as an M1 material by Eurofins, EUCEB certified).

Heaters made of glass, peat and paper

FOAMGLAS® foam glass is foamed glass. It does not burn, does not lose its properties over time, is stable in shape, environmentally friendly and safe. Its only drawback: the high price and rather large weight.

There are also peat-based heaters - peat blocks . Crushed peat is soaked with water, filler is added - straw, sawdust, etc., blocks are formed from the resulting mushy mass, which are used as heat and sound insulators. The resulting material not only reduces heat loss, but is also a "breathable" material - it absorbs well and also releases moisture well, has a bacteriostatic effect, does not burn or rot.

Despite all the positive qualities, peat blocks are not the most common material, and there are few manufacturers of this material. The most famous is the GeoKar enterprise from Tver. If all the declared qualities are confirmed, then this is a good alternative to mineral wool.

There is also such a thermal insulator as ecowool . This is a cellulose substance, mostly consisting of recycled newspapers, to which safe (according to the manufacturers) fire retardants - boric acid and borax salts - are added. Everything would be fine, but this material strongly absorbs moisture, and is not suitable for thermal insulation of the bath.

Wood fiber boards - are made from crushed wood chips, but using a different technology than the well-known fiberboard - without chemical binders. The chips are ground, diluted with water, distributed over the grid. The mass simply dries, after which it is cut into canvases.

Among the safe heaters, one can also name natural heaters made of flax, wool, moss, reeds. Use as a warming material and sawdust, reeds and straw. But all these substances are combustible, and without treatment with special compounds they cannot be used to warm the bath.

Modern foil insulation

In this article, we could not help but talk about what modern insulation materials the Finns use in the construction of saunas. Hot finnish guys use insulation boards SPU Sauna Satu specially designed for wall and ceiling insulation in the sauna.

SPU Sauna Satu slabs are made of polyurethane foam and have an aluminum laminate coating on both sides.

SPU Sauna-Satu cooker

SPU Sauna Satu slabs can be attached to walls even without battens. The process of attaching the slabs to stone walls and wooden ceiling lathing is shown in the video.

At the moment, it is the SPU Sauna Satu boards that can be attributed to the most suitable heaters for baths and saunas.

conclusions

The main problems of warming the bath are associated with the warming of the steam room, since it has not only very high humidity, but also high temperature. Under the influence of high temperature, many heaters begin to release toxic substances that can harm human health. For this reason, it is necessary to carefully choose mineral wool insulation, as many of them contain phenol-formaldehyde resins that act as a binder.

Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene should not be used as a heater, which, when heated to 60 degrees Celsius, begin to release toxic substances.

In fairness, it should be noted that many natural materials that are harmless at normal temperatures can, when heated, release substances that can harm human health.

For strong steam and persistent heat, what is the best way to insulate a sauna?

Constantly rising energy prices are forcing the owner of the bath under construction to provide all the necessary measures for further savings on its maintenance. During finishing works building is thoroughly insulated. In principle, this rule applies to any other building, but in our case the task becomes more complicated due to the maintenance of an extremely hot climate in one of the premises, which is not so easy to maintain. Because of this "zest", the insulation of the bath is somewhat different from the standard thermal protection of a residential or outbuilding. If you do not adhere to certain rules for its thermal insulation, then you will have to spend huge amounts of money to maintain the working temperature inside the premises. Improper warming of the Russian bath will completely lead to a situation where it will be simply impossible to achieve the desired "density" of therapeutic steam.

Let's reveal all the secrets of creating the right bath “fur coat”, and pay special attention to such important working moments׃

• Materials for warming a bath ׃ hit parade of the best "heat-helpers"
• Bath insulation scheme for each part of the "box" of this structure
• The technology of warming a bath built from different building materials

What is the best way to insulate a bath?

What is the best way to insulate a bath? The main function of the steam room is to strengthen our health, therefore, all materials used for construction should not violate the healing atmosphere created in it. The same applies to heat insulators, whose action is aimed at effective heat retention. Samples that cannot withstand temperature changes and emit an unpleasant odor into the air and harmful impurities gases - strictly prohibited for use! Their negative impact will be multiplied by the hot and humid climate of the bathhouse.

Particularly strict natural selection of materials operates when the bath is insulated inside the steam room. Here, the heat insulator must not only be harmless, but also able to withstand the extreme temperature of the room. Selection by such standards significantly sifts the ranks of "heat-helpers".

But still there are several excellent "candidates" for this role. We list the most popular materials that can be used to perform external and internal insulation of the bath.

• Basalt mineral wool

This heat insulator is the undisputed leader of the hit parade. Mineral wool is a fibrous material obtained as a result of processing mineral rocks of stone (in particular, from the basalt group). The natural purity of the "pedigree" is supported by various useful characteristics.

Record coefficient of thermal conductivity: on average, this indicator for mineral wool ranges from 0.038 - 0.045 W / K * m (depending on the manufacturer and the quality set of components used in the production). Fire resistance: thermal insulation material belongs to the category of non-combustible materials. It can easily withstand high temperatures up to +1000 degrees Celsius.

Environmental friendliness: the natural composition of mineral wool guarantees its absolute harmlessness. Spoil the reputation of the material only impurities of slag, which are added by unscrupulous manufacturers to reduce the cost of their products. Biological neutrality: the material does not rot, is not a delicacy for rodents and insects, which guarantees its long and trouble-free service for at least 50 years.

Noise insulation properties: in addition to thermal insulation properties, the material is endowed with excellent sound insulation characteristics (coefficient - 0.95). Durability: despite the fibrous structure, mineral wool is a fairly durable material. The indicator of "strength" is 80 kPa.

The heat insulator is actively used both when the bath is insulated from the inside, and when the outer “coat” of the building is being equipped, since it is made of different densities and hardness (soft rolls, semi-rigid mats, hard slabs).

• glass wool

This fibrous insulation is a close "relative" of mineral wool, but is significantly inferior to it in its technical characteristics. The material is made from glass production waste (broken glass) in combination with a natural “additive” (soda, dolomite, sand, etc.). Although the thermal insulation properties of glass wool are only slightly inferior to mineral wool (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.052 W / K * m), it is not recommended to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside with it for one simple reason: the material can withstand temperatures only up to +450 degrees Celsius. It is absolutely impossible to insulate a glassy zone located in close proximity to the furnace. In addition, during aging, the material emits a specific smell, which is unacceptable for a “healthy” atmosphere in residential premises. Most often, glass wool is used to insulate the roof and attic of the bath, thereby reducing the cost of this construction stage (20-30% cheaper than using mineral wool).

• Jute felt (mezhventsovy heaters)

This is a natural material of organic origin, which is made from a fibrous plant of the same name, belonging to the linden family. Jute fiber is a traditional raw material for the production of ropes and coarse burlap, but in addition to these economic areas, it is well known to bath attendants as a traditional interventional insulation for a bath. Jute not only retains heat very well (thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.040 W / K * m), but also has the ability to remove excess moisture from the interiors. Due to the fragility and rigidity of the material, insulation wooden bath performed by improved hybrids - jute fiber is reinforced with flax fibers for its greater elasticity, resilience and strength. The most popular samples are flax-jute felt, flax wool, etc. They are produced in the form of tape bobbins for different log diameters. Improvements also affected specifications materials - hybrids do not rot, do not deteriorate by insects and birds, do not settle and do not shrink.

Advice from the master!

For caulking, baths use time-tested natural materials such as red moss, hemp hemp, sphagnum, cuckoo flax, and more. But thanks to the convenience and practicality of felt-linen insulation, the "old guard" has dramatically lost its popularity.

This heat insulator is used as a backfill for insulating individual horizontal parts of the structure (in particular, for a bath - ceiling and floor). "Warm" light balls appear due to the rapid firing of low-melting clay. In construction, various materials of this type are used: gravel, crushed stone, sand. But it should be remembered that the thermal insulation effect of expanded clay is obtained only with a backfill thickness of more than 25 cm.

• Styrofoam

Insulation of a bath with foam plastic is ideal for external thermal protection of a brick (block) bath. The facade of the structure is glued with a polymer heat insulator, and then covered with plaster or other decorative material. Indoors, the material cannot be used categorically because of its harmful toxic fumes (phenol) and flammability.

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Proper warming of the steam room in the bath

A feature of the thermal insulation of the bath is increased attention to the thermal protection of the steam room, the extreme climate of which forces the owner to strengthen measures to protect the premises from the slightest heat leaks. Each component The "box" of the structure is equipped with individual "armor" and its arrangement does not always require only the latest expensive building materials. Our ancestors developed several available ways warming baths, which to this day have not lost their relevance.

Consider the most popular thermal protection technologies among the people for each component of the steam room.

• Insulation of the foundation of the bath

The “sole” of the bath is protected only by that heat insulator that is “not afraid” of moisture, biological threats and constant temperature fluctuations. The ideal option is polystyrene foam, which is the most popular material for insulating the foundation, basement and blind areas of buildings. As soon as the concrete tapes (slabs, columns) harden, the outer side of the base is carefully waterproofed and glued with sheets of cellular heat insulator at least 5 cm thick (ideally 10 cm in two 5 cm layers in a checkerboard pattern). Additionally, the surface can be covered not with ordinary, but with “warm” plaster.

wood flooring is classic version bathroom flooring. There are two of its designs ׃ flowing: it is a “cold” floor, where between the wooden boards there are ventilation slots of 2-4 mm, which serve to remove excess water. Non-leaking: this is a “blank” floor with a fundamentally different water drainage system (slight slope and a special water collector in the underground).

Insulation of the bath floor is possible only for a non-leaking wooden floor. For these purposes, expanded clay or mineral wool is used. The heat insulator is placed in the gaps formed between the finishing and rough floors, protecting it from water "aggression" with a vapor barrier (from the indoor side) and a hydro barrier (from the soil side).

Warming of the concrete floor in the bath is carried out using rigid mats made of mineral wool or foam, which are included in the "puff" of the screed.
The concrete floor in the steam room does not require the arrangement of the "warm floor" system. It is enough to protect the legs of bathers with wooden bars. But in the washing room, such heating gives convenience and comfort to visitors.

• Bath wall insulation

The main nuance when insulating the walls of the bath is their effective vapor barrier. To do this, it is best to use foil or modern reflective insulation instead of a film. When installing a vapor barrier, an air gap is required between the film and the decoration of the room. To install the upholstery of the room, use a crate attached over the "mirror".

The mirror film should be laid in vertical overlapping strips (15 cm) without stretching. Due to the thinness and fragility of the material, builders often perform two-layer insulation of the bath with foil. The seams are sealed with a special "mirror" adhesive tape.

Additionally, the walls inside the steam room (for stone structures) are insulated with mineral wool (5-10 cm), protected from the side of the bath box waterproofing film. During installation, it is necessary to provide a ventilation gap between the cotton heat insulator and the hydro-barrier, which will allow the “fur coat” to “breathe” freely and not accumulate moisture.

The ceiling needs careful thermal protection, as light hot air rushes up and will take advantage of the slightest flaw in the ceiling structure to escape. This surface is insulated in two ways: open and closed.

Open version - suitable for a bath where a "working" attic is not provided. wood paneling the ceiling is carefully waterproofed with a reflective film, and then covered with a loose heat insulator. Our ancestors used sawdust mixed with dry oak leaves as backfill. From above, a warm “blanket” was covered with a 5-cm layer of dry earth. Instead of a vapor barrier film, liquid clay was used, which was coated with a wooden floor (2 times, layer - 3-5 cm). This method is still relevant today and has proven itself in practice. More modern version- insulation of the ceiling of the bath with expanded clay. Just remember that this backfill exhibits its useful thermal insulation properties with a layer thickness of 25 cm or more. Warm balls are protected by a waterproofing layer (for example, roofing material).

Closed - a built-in warm "fur coat" on the ceiling is closed with boards that are attached to the logs, which allows you to use the attic for household needs. With this version of the “puff”, mineral wool is most often used according to standard scheme(vapor barrier + mineral wool + hydrobarrier).

• Bath roof insulation

When insulating the roof of the bath, they adhere to the standard rules for arranging the “warm roof” of a residential building. The choice of material depends on the functionality of the attic space. If the attic of the bath is insulated for the construction of a rest room here, then the most “healthy” version of the heat insulator is chosen - mineral wool. In the case when the "cap" of the steam room will be warehouse technical room, then you can save 25-30% and give preference to glass wool.

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Insulation of the bath outside and inside ׃ we select the right “fur coat” for our steam room

• Brick bath

In order for the insulation of a stone bath to meet all the criteria for thermal protection, it must first be protected with a “fur coat” from the outside. Ideally, mineral wool is suitable for these purposes, more cheap option- PSB-S.

According to the technology, the external insulation of a brick bath is performed in two layers (5 cm + 5 cm) with overlapping of the seams of mats (slabs), which leads to the elimination of “cold” bridges in the “puff”. But due to economy, this method is rarely used. Developers are limited to only a 5-centimeter layer of heat insulator.

Additional insulation of a brick bath from the inside is not always required, since it depends on the type of room: a rest room, a dressing room, a vestibule are simply sheathed with a facing layer (wooden lining, “warm” plates made of pressed chips). A steam room is a room where additional insulation of the walls of a brick bath is carried out using mineral wool (standard “puff” ׃ vapor barrier + cotton wool + hydro barrier). The washing room is heated by the “warm floor” system, and the walls are covered with ceramic tiles for protection and decoration.

• Wooden bath

A wooden structure initially has good thermal insulation properties, but nevertheless, for the construction of a bath, it requires additional enhancement of its output characteristics. Due to the variety of modern lumber, we will consider the insulation scheme for each type of wooden steam room construction.

The warming of a bath from a bar is aimed primarily at sealing the seams of the building box. To do this, use thin layers of felt insulation based on jute and flax. The joint sealer can be pre-glued to one of the edges of the glued laminated timber, which significantly speeds up the workflow. interior decoration only rooms with a strict operating mode are exposed - washing and steam rooms. Washing sheathed moisture resistant drywall and protected by ceramic tiles. As for the steam room, a layer of mineral wool is hidden under the lining of the wooden lining, protected by a vapor barrier (foil) and a hydro barrier.

Warming frame bath requires special attention to each cell formed in the skeleton of the structure. Mineral wool is placed inside the “puff” (standard film protection) and the structure is sheathed on both sides with wooden boards (or OSB-boards). In the steam room, a vapor barrier film with a “mirror” is used, which allows you to create the effect of a “thermos” in the room.

A log bath, due to the thickness of the working elements of the “box”, does not actually require additional insulation. The main concern of the owner of the structure is the high-quality thermal insulation of the interventional joints, for the thermal insulation of which natural materials based on a mixture of jute and flax fibers are used.

The warming of the steam room of a log cabin is carried out using mineral wool. As a vapor barrier, foil or a more advanced reflective vapor barrier is used, supplemented with a layer of effective heat insulator.

• Block bath

Building blocks are an affordable and profitable building material, therefore they are actively used in the construction of a modern steam room. Warming a bath from cinder blocks is no different from warming a brick structure. First, the building is protected by an external “fur coat”, which ensures that the optimal temperature is maintained in the rooms. As for the steam room, for this room it is necessary to build an additional warm “puff” of mineral wool, a vapor barrier (foil) and a hydro barrier.

Having performed such insulation of a bath from foam blocks, you can quickly warm up the structure and easily maintain the desired temperature in it. for sheathing internal walls steam rooms use wooden lining made of linden or aspen, which have the lowest thermal conductivity.

In view of the high thermal insulation characteristics of the main building material, the insulation of a bath from expanded clay concrete blocks is carried out with a thinner layer of cotton wool insulation than for a colder brick steam room.

How can I insulate the bath outside and inside

The Russian banya does not lose its popularity, and at the same time it must be built in compliance with the relevant norms and rules. Therefore, the question of how to insulate a bath remains very relevant.

Some features of bath insulation

Proper thermal insulation of the bath will help to significantly reduce fuel costs, improve the quality of the procedure, and keep the building itself in good condition for a long time, especially if the bath is used all year round.

Since ancient times, Russian baths were insulated using natural materials- moss, tow, bast, etc. At present, it is better to use artificial insulation. They are durable, easy to install, environmentally friendly.

When choosing a heater, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of using bath rooms - a high level of moisture, high temperatures, often a live fire. All these moments impose certain requirements on heaters for a bath, especially if they are used for internal insulation.

Before purchasing a material, it is necessary to carefully consider a number of important factors, taking into account the cost, biological inertness, technical characteristics of the proposed heat insulators. Another important point is the regional climate. The amount of materials required is determined by the size of the bath building and the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer.

Whether it is necessary and whether it is possible to insulate the bath from the outside depends on the material from which it is built, the regional climate and the time of use - seasonal or year-round.

Necessary tools and materials

In order to carry out the thermal insulation of the bath yourself, you need to prepare the following set of tools:

• construction roulette;
• screwdriver;
• building level and plumb;
• axe;

• chisel;
• saw or hacksaw;
• hammer;
• jigsaw;
• wire cutters or pliers;
• sharp technical knife;
• electric drill or hammer drill.

In addition to the actual insulation, for work you will need:

• vapor barrier film;
• wooden beam;
• metal rail;
• screws and nails;
• adhesive tape.

How to choose a heater

In the bath usually there are: a dressing room, rooms for washing, a steam room, a dressing room, a relaxation room. In these rooms, different levels of humidity and temperature are set during washing. Therefore, how you can insulate the bath inside is determined for each room separately.

According to mechanical characteristics, heaters are divided into loose, block and tile, mother and fibrous materials.

The chemical composition makes it possible to separate heat insulators into organic, inorganic, technical and plastic materials.

Plastic-based heat insulators are best used for warming rooms with low levels of moisture and temperatures. They are not used in the steam room because of the easy flammability and deformation when heated. Cheap and safe organic heat insulators can be used in the steam room only after fire treatment.

The most practical are inorganic heat insulators. These materials are fire-resistant, non-hygroscopic. They do not rot and can serve for a long time without losing their basic technical properties.

More about vapor barriers

Most good option vapor barriers for all bath rooms - aluminum foil. It is fire resistant, durable, non-hygroscopic. The main advantage of aluminum foil is the ability to reflect heat. Using such a vapor barrier in the bath, you can significantly reduce the consumption of fuel material.

Glassine, as well as roofing material, cannot be used in the steam room, since these materials, when heated, emit volatile toxic substances. In some embodiments, glassine can be used as a heater. Ruberoid for this purpose is better not to use at all.

The choice of insulation and the method of its installation depend on the material from which the bath is built. If the bath is built of timber, on bearing walls first, a cellular crate of bars is mounted. The cross section of the beam should be 0.2-0.3 cm more than the thickness of the heat insulator. This will ensure the safety of the insulation and its useful properties.

Between the bars of the crate, the selected heat insulator is laid. It is covered with vapor barrier material. The vapor barrier is laid with a shift. A thin metal rail is mounted over the joints. A gap of no more than 3 cm must be left between the insulation and the vapor barrier.

The corners of the room, pipes, window and door openings are sealed with a special vapor barrier tape. This will protect problem areas from moisture penetration.

For finishing in this case, it is easier to use a lining board. It is stuffed over a vertical crate.

Bath structures of a panel or frame type are insulated only with heat insulators that have a low specific gravity. Before use, they are treated with lime milk to protect against corrosion and increase fire resistance. After processing, the material must be thoroughly dried.

We warm the steam room

The steam room in the bath requires special attention. After all, it is here during operation that the highest level of moisture and elevated temperature are observed. Therefore, insulation, waterproofing and finishing of this room must be made with special materials.

The maximum heating during operation is exposed to the ceiling of the steam room (up to 150 ° C). Therefore, the question of how to insulate the bath ceiling is solved by using materials with high heat resistance.

In the absence of an attic or attic, insulation is installed in the following order:

• wooden lattice from a bar on the ceiling boards;
• trim elements;
• thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier.

If there is an upper room - an attic, an attic - the insulation scheme looks a little different. A layer of clay is applied to the ceiling boards, at least 2 cm thick. This will ensure moisture retention. All small holes, joints between boards, etc. are filled with bulk material. Usually expanded clay or chips are used for this. The thickness of this layer is at least 20 cm.

A box-shaped base of rafter supports is mounted around the chimney on the ceiling. This will provide a gap between the pipe and the heat insulator of 20 cm, required by fire safety. A non-combustible heat insulator such as glass wool or mineral wool is placed inside the box. The main surface of the ceiling is covered with a layer of mineral heat insulator.

The walls and ceiling of the bath building must be insulated according to the following principles:

1. Thermal insulators must be in close contact with the wall surface to reduce the risk of internal moisture and cold air ingress.
2. A ventilation gap is needed on top of the insulation to dry it.
3. All floors and other wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic compound to prevent premature destruction of the material.
4. Materials with a low level of heat and moisture resistance cannot be used in the steam room.
5. Insulation should be chosen from among those that do not deform under the influence of moisture and high temperatures and do not emit hazardous chemicals.

Necessary properties of heaters for a bath:

• heat resistance;
• moisture resistance;
• environmental friendliness;
• Fire safety.

Natural heaters require special processing before use. Otherwise, mold, fungus and harmful insects may soon appear. In this case, it is more expedient to use artificial heaters.

Foam application

Many home craftsmen are interested in whether it is possible to insulate the bath with foam. After all, it is a relatively inexpensive and easy-to-use material. However, it should be said that the bath can be insulated with foam from the outside or along the foundation.

To the question of whether it is possible to insulate the bath with foam plastic from the inside, most experts will answer in the negative. This is due to the fact that the foam is easily destroyed under the influence of high temperatures. The low moisture resistance of this material causes it to rot under the influence of high humidity. Therefore, for the interior of the bath, foam plastic can only be used in rooms where moisture almost does not get.

Use of mineral wool

The question of whether it is possible to insulate a bath with mineral wool is, as a rule, resolved positively.

After all, mineral wool is an almost universal modern insulation that has many positive technical characteristics. Among them should be mentioned:

• reliability;
• moisture resistance;
• heat resistance;
• fire safety;
• resistance to decay;
• simple installation.

Therefore, mineral wool can be used as a bath insulation both outside and in the interior, including the steam room.

Foam insulation

Is it possible to insulate the bath from the inside with foam plastic? This is quite acceptable, given some of the technical characteristics of the material. In the presence of many useful properties, foam plastic is a hygroscopic material, with low heat resistance.

Therefore, in the steam room, it is better to use it only on the walls and be sure to cover it with foil. In other branches of the bath, it is quite suitable.

Floor insulation in the bath

The floor in the bath is usually made of wooden boards or concrete. The board is used in relatively dry rooms. Concrete - in the washing room and in the steam room. The technology of floor insulation depends on the base material.

Expanded clay (3-5 mm), extruded polystyrene or boiler slag is most often used to insulate a concrete floor. The upper level of the floor at the end of the insulation work is understood to be 15-20 cm. The work is carried out in the following order.

The concrete base must be leveled and cleaned of construction debris and dust. Next, an adhesive composition is applied to the surface in 2-3 layers. Most often, special mastics are used for this, for example, rubber concrete. A waterproofing agent is laid on the adhesive composition - high-strength polyethylene or roofing material.

After the waterproofing has set, the laying of the insulation begins. An adhesive composition is again applied on top of it, on which a waterproofing agent is laid. The last layer is a reinforced concrete screed, at least 30 mm thick. Concrete must be leveled and properly dried. Finishing such a floor is usually done using ceramic tiles. Under it, you can place a system of underfloor heating.

To insulate a wooden floor, you must first remove the old boards. A cranial bar is planted on the remaining beams from below. It must be wrapped with roofing material or heavy-duty polyethylene. A rough floor covering is laid on top of the waterproofing. For this, bulk materials or mineral wool are mainly used. Is it possible to insulate the floor in the bath with isopink? It is possible if the floor is wooden and arranged in a room with a low level of moisture.

A waterproofing material is applied over the insulation. Then the board for the finishing floor is laid. A plinth is attached around the perimeter of the room. The final paintwork is not used in this case, since these materials release toxins under the influence of temperature and moisture. If desired, the wooden floor can be covered with special rubberized mats. They will make the room cozy and will not cause much trouble when cleaning. The floor in the bath is insulated mainly for greater comfort for users. Floor insulation has little effect on the overall temperature inside the bath rooms.

Roof insulation

How can you insulate the roof of the bath - this problem is solved depending on the use of the premises. If the bath building is intended only for hygienic procedures and relaxation, to insulate the roof, it will be enough to lay the roofing material on the crate before mounting the roofing pie. In the case when brooms are dried inside the bath, linen and other equipment are stored, the roof must be thoroughly insulated.

Before insulating a bath, you need to take into account certain factors that affect this process. It is necessary to take into account what material the bath was built from (brick, wooden modules or foam block), to study all the climatic features of your area.

Log house thermal insulation

From time immemorial, a log house was built for a traditional Russian bath. Although it is known that the tree retains heat quite well and the log house can be more than 20 cm in diameter, it is still worth insulating the bath using additional materials.

But why is it still worth warming the bath? The reasons for this are as follows:

Now you are convinced that it is extremely necessary to insulate your bath. So, let's look at ways to warm the bath from the outside. To best insulate the log house, caulking (caulking) should be carried out.

Most often, caulking occurs in 3 stages:

• during the first stage, the crowns are stacked one on one, a special interventional insulation is placed on the lower crown;
• you should already go to the second stage in a year, immediately after shrinkage occurs;
• but the third stage of warming occurs only after four years, already the field of how the bath was built. At this stage, caulking is presented as the restoration of a previously installed bath insulation.

If new cracks have already appeared in the bath and it began to quickly release heat, then it is worth using a heater based on jute and linen. This jute retains heat well and does not ignite. The truth should be remembered that it can easily tear. And for this reason, flax was added to the insulation. When filling the cracks with this insulation, it is important to do this very carefully, since if you are careless, you can provoke a skew of the bath. Also, to eliminate unwanted gaps, you can use a sealant that has the shape of a syringe. It is easier to use and fills all the gaps with high quality.

Brick bath, insulation procedure

It is known that a brick wall cools much faster than a wooden surface, such as a log house. This is because the brick gives off heat much faster. And although there are practically no cracks or gaps in the brick walls, the brick wall still heats up for a very long time. But remember that this applies to an uninsulated room.

It is best to choose mineral wool for brick walls, as it has good heat-insulating and fire-resistant properties.

As a hydro and vapor barrier, it is best to use isospan. Since it is this material that protects mineral wool from all kinds of moisture.

Remember that excessive moisture contributes to the occurrence of fungus and without isospan, thermal insulation may not last as long as you would like. Speaking about the decorative design of the walls in your bath, everything depends entirely on your material resources and preferences. But it is best to protect the thermal insulation with outside using siding or lining.

1. Wall preparation comes down to removing different kind protruding fittings, air conditioners, old finishes, etc. If there are gaps in the brickwork, it is necessary to seal them with cement mortar (embroider), otherwise convective air currents will carry away heat from the bath through the insulation layer, and cold masses from the street will be sucked in through the gaps in the bottom parts of the walls.
   
   

   
   

2. First you need to drill holes for the dowels to fix the metal brackets into the brick wall. The metal brackets themselves, namely the distance between them, must correspond to the selected dimensions of the insulation. Remember that the length of the brackets should slightly exceed the thickness of the insulation, otherwise the facade will be inefficiently ventilated, moisture will accumulate in the wool.

   
   

3. Brackets are fixed with dowels, to which, after laying the mineral wool slabs, aluminum or galvanized stainless steel profiles are attached. The thickness of the mineral wool slabs is selected based on climatic conditions; for central Russia, 15 cm slabs are sufficient, or two-layer laying of 100 and 50 mm insulating mats is acceptable. Cotton wool is inserted between the brackets, laying is carried out from the bottom up, additional fixation is carried out by "fungi" - facade dowels.

Note! The metal frame with brackets can be replaced with wooden planks. In this case, 50x50 mm bars are used, which are fixed vertically on a brick wall. For fastening, dowels are used, they are inserted into pre-drilled holes in the wall. Holes for anchors are also drilled in the bars. The distance between the bars is chosen according to the formula "Insulation width minus 1-1.5 cm." Plates 50 mm thick are inserted between the guides. When the mats are laid, the sheathing beams for the second layer of insulation are horizontally fixed and both layers of insulation are attached to the wall with facade “fungi”. The last stage of work, both in the first case and when using wooden bars, is stretching the Izospan strips, gluing its joints, after which a vertical counter-lattice is stuffed under the siding / lining.

"Wet" methods of warming a brick bath

The procedure for warming a frame building

The design of the frame-panel bath is very simple and relatively light, so we understand that it is not suitable for large mass heaters. And although mineral wool has a small weight, complete with decorative trim, the mass becomes decent. Over time, this can lead to deformation of the walls of your frame-panel bath. Therefore, it will be much better to use polystyrene foam for insulation, because this insulation is much lighter and will not contribute to the deformation of the walls.

Styrofoam also has properties such as heat capacity and hydrophobicity. And there is no doubt that this material will serve you for many years. Do not forget that the foam has a number of other advantages. When insulating with this material, you will not need to build a separate frame, the foam should only be attached to a special glue.

As decorative finishes you can use plastering on the grid. But remember that this should be done only after you have laid the insulation and the glue has completely dried.

Due to the fact that many craftsmen believe that when heated, the foam loses its shape and begins to gradually collapse, they still recommend thinking about using mineral wool when insulating the walls of your frame-panel bath. The choice is yours, because in any case there is a risk.

Video - Do-it-yourself warming of a frame bath

Video - Rules and errors of warming the bath from the inside and outside

How to insulate a foam block bath

Many experts argue that a foam block bath should be insulated using the same technology that is used when insulating a brick bath. Others consider this opinion to be erroneous, all because the surface of the foam block is porous. It follows from this that a foam block bath must be necessarily protected from moisture from the inside, while a waterproofing material is sufficient for a brick bath.

For insulation of foam concrete walls, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene. This is a fairly durable material with high thermal insulation properties and physical and chemical parameters, it is easy to install even alone. The only drawback is the possibility of damage to the insulation by rodents.

Insulation of a bath from a foam block, the main stages of work

Important note. Aerated concrete bath is insulated according to the same principle as a cinder block bath.

For insulation, you can use basalt wool or foam plastic with a thickness of more than 50 mm. The selected material must be placed between the laths of the crate (the installation procedure is described above). Make sure that there are no gaps between the crate and the heat insulator.

If foam plastic is used for insulation, it is recommended to additionally fix it with facade dowels or use glue, and glue the joints of the sheets with construction tape.

A waterproofing material is stretched over the insulation layer, and the overlaps of adjacent sheets of 10-15 cm are strictly observed and glued. Next, the decorative facade panels will be fixed.

How to insulate a bath from the inside

The technologies for warming a log house and a brick bath are very similar. Most masters do not consider it necessary to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside, paying attention only to the roof, ceiling and foundation. So let's find out the reasons why you should insulate the bath from the inside and what technologies exist for this.

Why you need to insulate the bath from the inside

The diameter of a wooden crown in a log cabin is most often 20 centimeters. If the caulking was done with high quality, then it will not be necessary to insulate your bath from the inside at all. But there are still reasons why it is necessary:

• it may happen that the diameter of the crown in the log house is small, which in the future will lead to poor thermal insulation;
• the bath must be insulated from the inside if the foundation has not been insulated. Or was insulated, but very weakly;
• due to bad weather conditions, the insulation of the bath from the outside is insufficient.

The craftsmen are sure that if the bath is insulated with sufficient quality, then 3 times less energy will be spent on heating it, and a weaker stove can be used.

The walls of an insulated bath in their structure are very reminiscent of a thermos (sometimes this is called a “pie” of insulation). After all, those who are going to really insulate the bath with high quality will need steam and waterproofing.

The walls of an insulated bath have the following structure: a pre-prepared wall, a mandatory layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation, vapor barrier and, of course, a decorative finish.

If you choose correctly quality material, then you can independently cope with the warming of the bath from the inside very quickly. To insulate the bath, you will need material that will be:

• high quality, with high thermal insulation properties;
• not prone to decay, and will not be damaged by various insects;
• most importantly, the insulation must be fire resistant, because the temperature in the bath can be above 100 degrees.

Since not all materials are suitable in terms of quality and properties for internal insulation of a bath, most often experts use basalt wool. In addition to the fact that it has a very reasonable price, basalt wool is also suitable for other parameters. In addition, it is recommended to choose special synthetic boards that have a soft structure.

It should be remembered that when insulating walls, hydro and vapor barrier should be performed in parallel with thermal insulation, because these processes are closely related.

First of all, you should prepare the surface of the walls.

If you see any gaps or seams, then they should be filled with plaster. Also for these purposes, experts recommend the use of sealant. After you have finished, you should move on to the next step - waterproofing.

Note. If your bath was made from a log house, then waterproofing immediately after construction is strictly prohibited. To begin with, you should wait until the shrinkage ends, often it takes more than a year.

How is hydro and thermal insulation made?

First of all, the walls, floor and ceiling of the bath should be protected from moisture. It is best to use a polyethylene film or a special foil.

The insulation technology itself using foil is simple. You should do the following:

Note. All bars must be lubricated with a special antiseptic in advance.

Bath decoration from the outside

Due to the fact that we already have the necessary wooden frame, we just have to find a quality material for the exterior of the bath. Only after that the warming of the bath can be completed. Most often, wooden lining is used for the external cladding of a bath in Russia.

In conclusion, to all of the above, it will not be superfluous to pay attention to interesting and helpful tips specialists.

Detailed instructions for warming the bath from the inside: wall, floor and ceiling insulation. To insulate a bath with your own hands, you do not need to have special skills, you only need a standard set of tools and our instructions!

The vast majority of owners of country houses do not imagine their site without a real Russian bath or sauna. But in order for it to function properly, and really bring only strength and health to the owners, it is very important to insulate it well, methods of insulation are considered at the stage of drawing up a bath project, but this can also be done with a ready construction

To know how to properly insulate a bath from the inside, you need to study the technology of this process and choose the right materials.

Work materials

Before proceeding with the consideration of insulation technology, it is necessary to figure out what materials need to be prepared for work.

1. Thermal insulation material - is the most important component in the process of insulating the walls, ceiling and floor of the bath. To date, there are a large number of heaters, but not all of them are suitable for bath conditions. Which of them are most adapted to high temperatures and humidity?

Rating of heaters for a bath

	A photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1			⭐ 82 / 100
#2			⭐ 86 / 100
#3			⭐ 88 / 100
#4			⭐ 92 / 100
#5			⭐ 98 / 100

• Low price
• Good thermal insulation
• Light weight
• Multifunctionality and wide scope of application
• Durability
• High resistance against fungi, various microorganisms
• Ease of installation

• Releases toxic fumes when burned
• Release of harmful substances even at low temperatures
• Creates a vapor barrier
• Hygroscopicity
• Afraid of the sun
• Whole until the mice got there
• Not resistant to solvents
• Low resistance to mechanical damage

Styrofoam prices

polystyrene foam

• Perfectly "sticks" to any materials - brick, glass, wood, concrete and metal.
• Differs in extraordinary ease and does not weigh down surfaces.
• The polyurethane foam coating does not respond to cold and warming during the year.
• Unlike sheet and panel thermal insulation, this type of insulation is a single whole. There are no joints and seams through which cold air can enter the room.

• Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, rapid wear of the insulation can occur.
• Polyurethane foams are slow-burning materials. However, where the surface heats up too much or can catch fire, polyurethane foam should still not be used.

• The high price of the material and the high cost of spraying services

Prices for polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam

• Low thermal conductivity, making it an excellent insulator
• fire safety
• Resistant to temperature extremes.
• Excellent vapor permeability, thanks to which the material "breathes"
• Ease of installation

• When moisture is absorbed, heat-insulating properties decrease, cold bridges are formed
• Large mass and volume, increased shipping costs

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

• High frost resistance - without loss of properties withstands temperatures up to -70 ° C.
• High degree of fire resistance.
• Human safety.
• Durability - 45 years.

• Low vapor permeability - 0.007-0.008 mg / m h Pa.
• Flammability. Even despite the self-extinguishing properties, the material burns on contact with fire.
• Low sound insulation.
• Ventilation of seams.

Prices for XPS Plates

• Low price
• Acid resistance
• Quickly absorbs moisture and does not lose its positive qualities

• Long drying
• Dust protection required during installation

Expanded clay prices

Acquaintance with characteristics leads to the conclusion that mineral wool for walls and wooden floors is most suitable for warming the bath from the inside, and XPS slabs for concrete. Expanded clay can be called a universal material that is perfect for any of the floors, but for walls it cannot be used for internal insulation.

If you buy it, then it's perfect for a bath material with a foil layer, which contributes to the long-term retention of heat indoors according to the principle of a thermos. For example, some characteristics of foil mineral wool insulation of the Izorok company are shown in the table:

	Isolight-L	Isolight	Isovent	Isocor -C	Isophor	Isoruf
Density, kg/m³	40	50	90	105	110	150
Compressive strength at 10% deformation, kPa, not less than			20		25	50
Ultimate tensile strength of layers, kPa, not less than			4		4	12
Declared coefficient of thermal conductivity, W/m×°K	0,035	0,034	0,034	0,036	0,034	0,036
Thermal conductivity coefficient under operating conditions, W/m×°K	0,043	0,038	0,039	0,041	0.040	0,042
Water absorption by volume, %, no more	1.5	1.5	1.5	1.5	1.5	1
Humidity by weight, %, no more	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5
Content of organic substances by mass, %, no more	2.5	2.5	4	4	4	4

suitable for heat and sound insulation works for walls, ceiling and floor of the bath. But on the floors it is still recommended to organize several layers of thermal insulation, the first of which should be expanded clay. The important thing is that rodents bypass it, which means that all other materials will be safe.

2. To fasten mats of mineral wool or other foil insulation, and create an integral hermetic coating of surfaces, it will be necessary to purchase a special foil tape.

3. The insulation is placed between the batten guides, which means that wooden bars will be required with a section that depends on the thickness of the insulation mats. If, as an example, we take the recommended insulation thickness of 100 mm, then the bars should have the same size on one of the sides, or a double crate with a perpendicular arrangement of guides and a two-layer arrangement of mats will be used.

4. The bars are attached to the walls using self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors (depending on the type of wall material), therefore, it is necessary to purchase these elements of the required length, corresponding to both the dimensions of the guides and the required penetration into the walls - for wood - 20 ÷ 25 mm, for capital walls - at least 40 mm.

5. If a heater without a foil layer is chosen, then a vapor barrier film is required to close it.

6. If the floor in the bath will be flooded concrete screed, then in addition to the heater you will need:

- cement and sand or ready mix;

- roofing material;

- reinforcing mesh;

— guides for beacons;

- polyethylene film ;

- damper tape.

The amount of materials will depend on the area of ​​​​the floor, ceiling and walls of the insulated room.

Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to the insulation of the surfaces of the bath rooms.

Bath floor insulation

As you know, a bath can be built of wood or brick, which is why not only wood, but also concrete is arranged. The latter is most often poured in a brick bath, but sometimes they do it in a wooden one. In any case, the concrete floor always requires enhanced insulation.

Thermal insulation of floors in any bath should be given special attention, since they must withstand high humidity and temperature changes between the rooms and the ground. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of a multi-layer "pie" of a wooden floor or a concrete device, it is recommended to fill the entire surface under the structure of a medium fraction bath or slag.

The expanded clay layer will depend on the thickness of the walls of the building. It should be at least twice as thick as they are. It should be noted that if there is an opportunity and space allows to make the expanded clay embankment thicker, then this will only increase the effectiveness of thermal insulation. If the bath is built of brick and installed on a concrete foundation, then it is recommended to fill it with expanded clay almost to the entire height of the foundation tape.

Floor covered with expanded clay "cushion"

Concrete floor

In order for the concrete floor of the bath to be warm, you need to do a series of operations that are carried out after laying the drain pipe (it must be raised in advance to the height of the future screed). The work consists of the following stages:

• The soil inside is well compacted, and the walls are covered with a waterproofing compound.
• Further, a layer of sand 80 ÷ 100 mm thick is poured onto the soil, moistened and compacted.
• A ruberoid is laid on top of the sand with a 150 ÷ ​​200 mm approach to the walls. The canvases are overlapped by 120 ÷ 150 mm, it is advisable to fasten them with waterproof adhesive tape or glue them together thermally using tar mastic.
• Further, expanded clay is poured onto the roofing material in such a way that the future floor screed is approximately 50 mm lower than the height of the foundation.

• Further, expanded clay is distributed over the entire surface in an even layer. Additionally, XPS slabs 50 mm thick can be laid on it - they have sufficient rigidity and can easily withstand all loads, do not forget that before laying expanded clay should be covered with dense polyethylene.

• A reinforcing mesh with cells from 50 to 100 mm is laid on the surface prepared in this way.
• Beacons are placed on top of the reinforcing belt, along which it will be aligned.
• If the sewer hole is located in the center of the insulated room, then the beacons are laid at a slight angle to it, so that when the concrete is leveled, a slight slope is formed from all sides of the room to the drain.
• Further, along the perimeter of the room, a damper tape is glued or otherwise attached to the lower part of the walls. This measure will keep the screed from deformation during temperature changes, since compensates thermal expansion of the material.

• Prepared concrete is laid out on the reinforcing mesh, mixed from sand and cement in a ratio of 3: 1, and leveled with building rule. It is advisable to introduce special plasticizers that are commercially available into the composition - this will improve the quality of the coating. Often, ready-made building mixtures for screeds with an already optimized composition for rooms with high humidity or for external works .
• After hardening and screeding and gaining strength, it is impregnated with a waterproofing compound () of deep penetration.

• When the soil dries, ceramic tiles are laid. Another option is to install logs with wooden flooring on the concrete floor. Well processed boards on it should be fixed at a distance of 20 ÷ 30 mm from each other.

Wooden floor

For wooden baths, wooden floors are traditional. To arrange them correctly, in addition to insulation operations, it is necessary to provide for high-quality waterproofing. Do not forget about the ventilation of the floor - for this, special channels must be left in the foundation.

Works on the device and floor insulation are carried out in such a sequence:

• First of all, a drain pipe is connected to the bath. The drain is usually located in the middle of the room, and all the insulation materials and the ceiling are arranged around it.

• A roofing material is laid on the compacted soil, which must rise to the walls by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• Expanded clay is laid on top of the waterproofing. The greater its thickness, the better, but between its surface and the floor beams there must be a ventilation distance of at least 200 ÷ 250 mm.
• Next, on waterproofed with layers of roofing material, the protruding part of the foundation is laid with floor beams. All wooden floor elements must be processed in advance.

• The cranial bars are nailed or screwed onto the lower parts of the floor beams, on which the subfloor boards will be mounted.

• The subfloor is covered with a vapor barrier film, which covers both the floor beams and the boards laid between them.
• Further, a heater is laid on the subfloor between the floor beams - it can be mineral wool or the same expanded clay.

• From above, the insulation material is closed with another layer of vapor barrier film.

Above - another layer of waterproofing

• Logs are fixed perpendicular to the floor beams, on which a wooden flooring is arranged. A hole is made in the middle - a drain pipe will go into it.

• On the style, slats are nailed, cut at an angle of 5 ÷ 7 degrees towards the drain - they will become a crate for mounting a waterproof wooden floor.
• Between the bars of the crate, the insulation is laid with a foil layer up and fastened together with foil tape. The thermal insulator must completely cover the bars of the crate.

• A non-leaking, well-fitted, fine wood flooring is laid on top at an angle.

Another option for insulation for wooden and concrete floors

In addition to those presented above, there are still a very large number different options bath floor insulation. You can briefly talk about another possible way to equip the floor using polystyrene foam. The method is more time consuming, but suitable for both concrete and wood flooring.

1 - soil;

2- layer of sand;

3 - foam plates;

4 - cement mortar with foam chips;

5 - waterproofing layer;

6 - cement mortar with vermiculite;

7 - concrete screed;

9 - boardwalk.

• In this option, the space under the future floor will have to be deepened by 500 ÷ 600 mm, and the soil at its bottom will be well tamped.
• Then, a layer of sand 50 ÷ 70 mm thick is poured to the bottom, which is wetted and compacted with a manual rammer.
• A dense waterproofing film is laid on top of this layer, which should completely cover the bottom and be on the walls by 200-300 mm. On its walls must be securely fixed.
• Instead of expanded clay, which was used in the first versions, a layer of expanded polystyrene boards is laid on the film. Its total thickness should be at least 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• Further, a screed made of cement mortar and foam plastic in proportions 2:1. The thickness of this layer should be 50 ÷ 70 mm. This layer will be not only insulating, but also reinforcing for the slab material laid below.
• Then a layer of waterproofing is laid again - for it you can use a dense plastic film or roofing material. Cloths must be fastened together with waterproof tape.
• The next layer in this "pie" is a layer of concrete with vermiculite, mixed in proportions of 3: 1. Its thickness should be 50 ÷ 100 mm. is a natural material that has high thermal insulation properties. Insects and rodents never settle in it, it is not subject to rotting and decomposition. The vermiculite layer will significantly increase the thermal insulation of the floor.

It looks like a natural material - vermiculite

The table shows the proportions cement-vermiculite solutions and their performance characteristics:

Characteristics of solutions with vermiculite
Cement (kg)	40	30	250	200	150	120	100
Vermiculite (liter)	130	130	130	130	130	130	130
Water (liter)	42.5	41	40	39.5	39	38.5	38
Bulk weight (kg/m³) dry	60	50	43	39	34	31	29
Compressive strength (kg/cm²)	20	13	10	7	5	2	1
Dry Thermal Conductivity (W/m×°K)	0.13	0.11	0.1	0,092	0,083	0,075	0,07
Thermal conductivity at 5% humidity (W/m×°K)	0.17	0,145	0.13	0.12	0.105	0.09	0.08
Sound absorption coefficient at a frequency of 1000 Hz	0.37	0.51	0.54	0,56	0.6	0.64	0.73

• The hardened screed is reinforced with a reinforcing mesh with cells up to 100 mm, and beacons for the upper concrete screed are set on it. Beacons are fixed on a concrete or gypsum mortar, at an angle of 5-7 degrees towards the drain.
• Further, concrete is laid out on this structure, in the same proportions and combinations with modifying additives, as described above. The thickness of the screed near the drain must be at least 50mm.
• After hardening the screed, ceramic tiles are laid on it or removable wooden floorings of wetted floors are arranged.

Boards in such semi pinned at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 mm from each other - this will allow not only to quickly leave the water from the flooring, but also to dry the wood. In addition, removable ones can be periodically put outside for airing and drying, so you need to foresee their size in advance so that they can freely pass through the bath door.

Bath wall insulation

It is equally important, in addition to the floor, to reliably insulate the walls and ceiling of the bath rooms. The walls and ceiling of a brick or wooden bath are insulated according to the same principle, the only difference between them will be the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. Since wood has a lower thermal conductivity than brick, the latter will require a thicker layer of insulation to be fixed.

Particular attention to the insulation of the walls of the bath

The process of wall insulation is carried out as follows:

• The walls are treated with an antiseptic composition - it will protect them from the appearance and spread of mold and fungus.
• Next, it is necessary to fix the hydrovapor barrier film on the wall.
• The crate is mounted.
• Insulation is placed between the guides of the crate.
• The vapor barrier is attached.
• The slats of the counter-lattice are nailed - this will create the necessary ventilation gap.
• The facing material is installed.

The sequence of work is common, but walls made of different materials have their own characteristics.

brick walls

• Lathing bars are fixed to the brick wall in increments of 600 mm. The size of the beam section should be equal to the thickness of the selected insulation. Usually for brick wall taken for insulation of slag wool in mats, 100 mm thick, which means that the thickness of the batten guides should be 100 mm.

• Insulation is placed between the bars in the spacer. You can help fix it with a stretched zigzag nylon cord.
• The next layer is a hydro-vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the bars of the crate. The overlaps between the canvases (at least 150 mm) are glued with waterproof tape.
• Further, the rails of the counter-lattice are nailed to the bars.
• Then a foil insulation is stretched over the entire surface, 8 ÷ 10 mm thick, which is attached to the rails. Joints are sealed with foil tape.

• From above, the entire "pie" is sheathed with wooden clapboard, which is fixed to the same rails of the counter-lattice.

It should be noted that if a foil insulation is used in the insulation process, then an additional layer of vapor barrier can be excluded, since this type of insulation material perfectly holds back steam.

Log wall insulation

1 - log wall;

2 - basalt insulation with a foil surface;

3 - crate bars;

4 - lining;

5 - ventilation gap between the insulation and lining.

The walls of a log bath in themselves have low thermal conductivity and retain heat well inside the room, provided that the joints of the logs at the corners and between themselves are well sealed. Therefore, insulation is carried out as follows:

• Basalt mineral wool with a foil layer is fixed to the wall, which should be facing the room. The thickness of the insulation is selected from 50 to 80 mm. You can fix it with special fasteners with wide caps - "fungi", which are recessed into the insulation.
• On top of the insulation, wooden bars of the crate are nailed vertically or horizontally.
• Further, the wall is sheathed, having a thickness of 10 mm - it is attached to the bars of the crate.

Timber wall insulation

A wall made of timber should be, just like a log wall, well insulated in itself, that is, all cracks and gaps are caulked with tow. It is easier to attach all the components of the insulation “pie” to it, since it has a flat surface into which fasteners are easily screwed or clogged. Warming it occurs in the following sequence:

• A crate made of a bar is attached to the wall, at a distance of 600 mm between the guides.
• Further, insulation material is laid between the bars - it is better if it is mineral wool.
• Then the whole structure is closed with a rolled foil insulation, which is fixed to the bars of the crate, and the joints of the individual sheets are glued together with foil tape.
• Counter rails are nailed on top of the bars, which will create a ventilation gap between the insulation and the lining.
• At the end of the process, the warming "pie" is sheathed with clapboard.

It must be said that there are other options for laying layers of insulation, but the above are considered the most popular and frequently used, as they are quite simple and have long been tested in practice.

Ceiling insulation

The ceiling can be mounted and insulated in three ways - you can choose any of them if it is suitable for the existing structure of the bath.

panel ceiling

This ceiling is mounted from panels, which already consist of all the layers necessary for vapor barrier, insulation and inner cladding, fixed on the support bars. As a heater in the panel, mineral wool is most often laid, having a thickness of at least 100 mm.

Shields are mounted at the bottom and rise up already in finished form. A feature of such insulation is that insulation gaskets must also be laid between the finished panels - this process is carried out after the panels are fixed on the bath floor.

Lifting the panels to the top can be complicated by the fact that they are quite heavy when assembled, so very often they are lifted in parts and assembled at a height.

false ceiling

A false ceiling is fundamentally different in its design from a panel one, since its installation takes place according to a different principle, somewhat similar to wall insulation.

• The frame for such a ceiling is the beams of the attic floor, laid in increments of 600 mm.
• From the side of the attic room, waterproofing is laid on the floor beams, which should cover the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling.
• On the waterproofing, also from the side of the attic, a wooden flooring is fixed.
• Insulation is laid between the floor beams by surprise.

• Then the insulation is closed with a vapor barrier or foil material, which is fixed to the floor beams.
• The last step is the lining of the ceiling with a wooden clapboard.

There is another option for insulating a false ceiling, using other insulating materials, for example, expanded clay. In this case, almost all work is carried out from the side of the attic, except for the finishing lining of the ceiling surface with clapboard.

Decking ceiling

The deck ceiling also differs from the two already mentioned in its design, in particular the fact that it is laid directly on the walls of the room, that is, in principle, it does not rely on floor beams. For such a ceiling, boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm are used.

From the side of the attic, a vapor barrier and insulation are laid on the style of the boards, which are covered from above with a waterproofing film and plywood or plank flooring.

The advantages of this design include the speed and ease of installation, but this version of the ceiling can only be used when insulating a small bath room, with distances between walls no more than 2.5 ÷ 2.7 m.

A detailed publication on the description of all the necessary materials for this and step by step instructions can be found on the pages of our portal by following the recommended link.

If the installation of thermal insulation and auxiliary materials is carried out correctly, then the heat in the bath rooms will remain for a very long time, which will help to significantly save on fuel.

In conclusion - a detailed video tutorial on warming a bathhouse built using frame technology.

Video: warming and finishing a frame bath )

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The bath has long been used not only to maintain the cleanliness of one's body, but is also famous for its excellent qualities to relieve fatigue, heal the body and make it possible to have a good time at the same time. And in our time there is no better option than to have your own bathhouse on your site. You can spend the whole day there with pleasure, changing visits to the steam room with tea drinking and chatting with friends. The main thing is that the steam room does not cool down quickly and keeps heat well. And for this you need to competently insulate the bathhouse so that all the interior rooms quickly warm up and can keep warm for a long time.

Peculiarities

In the good old days, bathhouses were built of round wood and did not get off with insulating materials. An indicator of warmth was a carefully selected wood, a high-quality log house and tightly caulked grooves between the crowns. The replacement of the insulation at that time was carried out with the help of moss, tow or jute and caulked in two steps - when felling a log house and after shrinking it.

Many people today prefer natural heaters., although drying is required before its use, but it is an environmentally friendly material. This process of warming is very laborious and lengthy, it requires a certain skill and skill. Poorly caulked seams will allow heat to pass through and moisture will begin to accumulate in the grooves, which will contribute to the decay of the tree and the rapid release of heat from the steam room.

Modern technologies have made it possible to find more than one alternative method of insulation.

Thanks to thermal insulation, well-insulated baths have a number of undeniable advantages:

• such a bath warms up longer, but also cools down for a long time;
• has the lowest heat consumption;
• it achieves the desired microclimate;
• there is a control over humidity;
• protected from mold and mildew.

And in order to achieve such results from the bath, you must first of all competently approach this process, although, at first glance, there is nothing complicated about this. For greater efficiency, the bath is insulated both from the inside and outside. External placement of thermal insulation helps protect the material from which the bath is made. But one external insulation will not be enough. In different rooms of the bath, you need to maintain a certain temperature and humidity level. For this, internal insulation is provided, and suitable material is selected for each individual room.

Types of heaters

In the modern market of building materials there are various types of heaters. And before you make a choice in favor of a certain one, remember that obtaining a healing effect will directly depend on the material you have chosen.

Indoors, preference should be given to natural and safe materials. The thermal insulation layer must be environmentally friendly. In the bath, each room has its own specific temperature regime, and at its high rates, heaters are capable of releasing toxic substances. This must be taken very carefully.

A sufficiently low indicator of hygroscopicity and thermal conductivity is an important requirement for finishing, because the lower it is, the less the material passes heat through itself.

All heaters available on the construction market are divided into several groups.

organic

They have been known since ancient times. Even our grandfathers and great-grandfathers used this improvised material to preserve and retain heat in the bath.

In the production of organic heaters, natural raw materials are used:

• linen ordinary or resin-treated tow;
• sawdust from wood processing;
• felt or jute.

Their undeniable advantage is that they are all of natural origin, and the disadvantage is a high level of moisture absorption, fire hazard, difficulty in application and vulnerability to rodents and harmful microorganisms.

semi-organic

In the production of this material, natural raw materials are used, but with technological process adhesives are used. This insulation is not suitable for finishing steam rooms. These include chipboard and peat boards.

Synthetic

They are divided into several types.

• Polymer, which include polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, penofol, polyurethane foam. It is strictly forbidden to use such materials when sealing the steam room and next to the stove, because they can easily catch fire and emit harmful gas during combustion. But when used in adjoining rooms, they are very suitable. In steam rooms, only penofol is allowed, which is covered with a layer of aluminum foil and prevents heat from escaping.

• mineral wool- These include glass wool and basalt wool. They have excellent fire-resistant properties and are resistant to high temperatures. Their only drawback is that they absorb moisture. Basalt wool is recommended for use in the steam room.

At present, the leading manufacturers of thermal insulation materials have found suitable option warming baths and steam rooms. Now special mineral wool is produced based on stone or fiberglass. It is used for warming surfaces made of any material. This product is produced using modern technology and is made from broken glass and sand.

In the manufacture of stone wool, rocks similar to the gabbro-basalt group are used. This raw material is melted at a high temperature and fibers are obtained from the liquid mass, which are then formed into plates. different sizes. The resulting product does not smolder, there is no smoke from it, no toxic substances are released, and it prevents the spread of fire.

Mineral wool, produced on the basis of fiberglass, has elastic and horizontally arranged fibers owing to it the product differs in elasticity and elasticity. It is easily mounted in the structure and is able to fill all the empty spaces. The service life of this product is at least 50 years, but after time it shrinks. This is due to poor quality workmanship. Stone wool, on the other hand, is not deformable; with proper installation, it can last 50 years, and some types can last up to 100.

At present, fiberglass mats from such manufacturers as Ursa, Isover, Knauf and stone wool insulation Rockwool and Technonikol have found wide application on the Russian market.

When insulating steam rooms, the material must withstand high temperatures and not be affected by fire, so it is better to use foil plates. The surface on which the layer of aluminum foil is applied must be directed inside the room. It will insulate the material to reflect heat and keep the material from getting wet. When installing it, there is no need to use a vapor barrier.

It is worth noting that today most often baths are insulated from blocks of mineral wool, foam plastic, foam glass and ecowool. You can choose the most suitable option for you.

Step-by-step instruction

The process of insulation and installation of the material itself is nothing complicated. The insulation is in rolled rolls or presented in the form of slabs of various sizes. Guides are attached to the surface, and insulation is laid between them. For this operation, wooden bars will be required, the thickness of which should be equal to the thickness of the mounted mats. If you decide to lay insulation with a thickness of 10 cm, the bars must be of the appropriate size. The bars can be attached with self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors, it depends on the material of the wall.

Counter rails are attached to the main racks at a distance of 50 cm from each other to create an air cushion between the vapor barrier and the cladding. This method is used for both internal and external insulation. The only difference in insulation from the outside is the material used in the construction of the bath.

When choosing thermal insulation from the outside and the method of insulation important point it will be what material was used in the construction and the climatic conditions of the region. wooden bath no need to insulate from the street. Wood material is able to cope with this problem itself, it retains heat perfectly, and the insulation between the rows is a good thermal insulation. But over time, the wooden log house shrinks and gaps form between the rows, which contribute to the escape of heat. To remove these gaps, it is necessary to caulk the gaps between the crowns with natural material or use basalt wool. Its structure allows you to maintain the desired microclimate and helps the tree "breathe". This method is suitable for those types of baths that are assembled from ordinary timber, professional timber, ordinary and rounded logs.

To give heat to the frame bath, it is recommended to use soft types of high-density heaters that are protected from moisture, since they are mounted inside the frame. You can use a mixture of sawdust, wood chips, gypsum and lime, which will serve as an excellent barrier to heat loss.

Brick baths, although they have a high thermal conductivity, it is not uncommon to see them. A wall made of bricks without a good internal heating can freeze quickly. And in the baths, as you know, in winter there is no constant heating. To eliminate this drawback, in most cases, a frame is constructed inside such baths. wood material, which is then finished and serves as a decor.

Often, when building baths, foam blocks and gas blocks are used. This material, due to its porosity, is able to keep heat well, but it does not have an attractive appearance and it can absorb moisture. In this case, this material requires external insulation. The main feature of the insulation process is to provide ventilation between the wall and the insulation. Therefore, in such baths it is recommended to leave the products.

The internal insulation of the walls in the bath is directly related to what this or that room is intended for. The most basic component of the bath is the steam room. The temperature in the steam room of a Russian bath can reach 90 degrees, and saunas - up to 130. It is difficult to maintain such heat for a certain time if the steam room does not have high-quality insulation. When carrying out this process indoors, it is recommended to use only natural, natural materials that do not emit harmful substances at high temperatures. In such cases, basalt wool or natural heaters are perfect.

When insulating the surface in a foam concrete bath, it is necessary to attach guides from a bar or metal profile. With a small height, you can get by with some vertical racks and use cotton wool with a density of 65 kr / m. cube The width between the vertical slats should be 15-20 mm less than the width of the stacked wool.

In a steam room with a frame structure, only wood material should be used. To equalize temperature differences on the wooden bars of the frame, it is necessary to make vertical cuts, through which the timber is attached to the surface with a hardware. The presence of such grooves contributes to the guide to go along the wall during shrinkage, if the bath is assembled from wood material. A vapor barrier film is attached inside the structure.

In the steam room in the form of a vapor barrier, it is desirable to use penofol, which is laid inside the room with a reflective layer. The place of docking must be glued with foil tape. Then, mineral wool is mounted on the reflective layer, which is then covered with a vapor barrier film. A rail of 25-30 mm is nailed onto the frame itself in order to pass air between the film and the material that will be used to finish the surface. And at the last moment the heater closes finishing material, most often in the bath it is a material made of wood.

In a bath made of timber or other material made of wood, jute is used inside for insulation. This procedure is carried out using a wooden mallet - a mallet, a chisel and a spatula for caulking. Jute is placed on the gaps between the rows and is tightly driven in with these devices.

A washing room, a dressing room or a rest room can be insulated with polystyrene foam, since it is relatively not hot in these rooms. The process is similar to the previous one, the frame is also installed. The distance between the vertical posts should be equal to the width of the foam, so that it fits snugly between them. The foam does not need to be protected from moisture, so the film is not used. You can also attach these sheets to the wall with glue, but this option is only suitable for brick or foam concrete coatings. After the foam has been fixed, you can proceed to the fine finish.

An important place in the warming of the bath is the process of warming the roof. A large amount of heat can escape through it. For its insulation, any heat-insulating material that can be laid on the attic floor is suitable. This process is similar to the process of wall insulation.

Start the process of sealing the bath from heat loss, as well as at home, should be from the ceiling. All the heat is collected under the ceiling, so poorly insulated, it can cause a cold bath. The technology of this process will depend on the material used. by the most the best option when sealing the ceiling in the bath, the use of basalt wool is considered. It is laid in the same way as wall insulation, starting with the frame equipment.

If you decide to insulate it with sawdust or expanded clay, you should make a frame between the floor beams on the attic floor and place the provided material there. It must be remembered that a chimney also goes into the attic, so it is necessary to lay basalt wool around it, because it has high fire-resistant properties and does not lend itself to combustion, and mount a protective screen made of stainless metal sheet.

The floor covering in the bath can be made of wood and concrete. In order to prevent cold air from entering the bath through the floor, it is insulated with expanded clay or foam. When insulating with expanded clay, it is necessary to disassemble the subfloor and remove a layer of earth 40-50 cm below the threshold. Then waterproofing is laid, for this an ordinary film or roofing material is suitable. On the sides, the ends of this material should protrude beyond the floor surface.

At the next stage, a rough screed is made or a 15 cm pillow is made of crushed stone and sand, on which expanded clay is poured. Its minimum layer should be 30 cm, otherwise there will be no proper effect from the cold. A cement mortar 5-7 cm thick is poured onto the expanded clay surface, while taking into account the angle of inclination to the drain. And at the last stage, the finishing floor spreads. In principle, expanded clay can be poured into a frame of boards prepared in advance in the floor and a waterproofing layer can be laid on it, and then a finishing coating of a wooden board can be laid. But this insulation is not suitable for steam rooms and washing rooms, where there is a high moisture content.

But if you are faced with a choice of how to insulate the floor in the bath, you should opt for a concrete floor for finishing with floor tiles, provided that it is a washing room or a rest room, or on a wooden one, but it is preferable to lay it in a steam room. But a concrete floor is much better at transferring moisture, so its lifespan is longer than a wooden one.

There is also a more practical method of floor insulation - this is the use of foam plastic as a heater. But in a steam room, this type of insulation is not suitable, because this material emits harmful substances at high temperatures. Therefore, it is more expedient to use it in less warm rooms. To implement this option, you need to get rid of the old screed or wood coating and get the soil. Then we fill in a rough screed no more than 10 cm thick and lay penoplex or other heaters of this type on a flat surface. We lay a metal mesh on the laid out insulation and make a cement screed 5-10 cm thick. And after the mortar has hardened, we carry out the flooring of the final floor covering.

There is another way to insulate the floors in the bath, and it finds an increasing number of adherents - this is the "warm floor" system. This process consists in the fact that pipes are poured into the concrete floor, warm water circulates through them and the floor covering is heated. But in this case, it is not about how to insulate, but how to heat the floors, and these are slightly different concepts, but the essence is the same.

Insulation of door and window openings from the side of the facade also helps to significantly increase the warmth in the rooms. To this end, the doors in the bath are made as small as possible, especially in the steam room. Windows are mounted as close to the floor as possible and dense double-glazed windows are installed, while seals are installed around the entire perimeter of doors and windows.

In the steam room, to save heat, you need to completely abandon the presence of a window, and in the washing room you can install one small one in order to ventilate this wet room.

For cutting mineral wool boards, a conventional sharp knife. It is not recommended to seal the insulation during installation, because the smaller its volume, the less heat-insulating properties.

If the flooring in the steam room is made of tiles, and even if it does not heat up much, wooden footrests are a must.

Do-it-yourself wall insulation near the stove is provided only with basalt wool with a protective screen using a stainless steel sheet.

There must be a distance of 1-2 cm between the finishing material and the vapor barrier. Also, small gaps are left along the edge of the ceiling and at the bottom of the wall.

External or internal insulation of the bath is a must. This reduces fuel consumption and slows down the process of cooling the air in the premises. If the structure is not insulated, then it will take several times longer to heat the steam room to the desired temperature.

We warm the bath with our own hands

Before the construction of the building, it is necessary to calculate the means and forces for thermal insulation. It is best if the insulation process begins during construction, more precisely, from laying the foundation.

Basic requirements for materials for warming a bath

Cheap solutions (impregnations, septic tanks) will not fulfill the role of good thermal insulation. Of course, protection from moisture is necessary in any case, but this is a separate task. It is necessary to warm the bath rooms separately, using materials specially created for this. Most attention is usually paid to the inside of the washroom and steam room. The selection of insulation and thermal insulation is done with the expectation of a draft building material.

One of the most important requirements for insulation materials is non-toxicity. Because in the bath, under the influence of temperatures, toxic materials can easily cause poisoning. Non-hygroscopicity is also important, the insulation should in no case absorb moisture.

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When choosing a specific material, you need to rely on the following characteristics:

• resistance to steam and high temperatures;
• good fire-fighting properties;
• environmental friendliness;
• low hygroscopicity;
• the ability to maintain shape for a long period.

Types of heaters for a bath

All heaters presented on the construction markets are divided into three conditional groups:

Of course, even 50-60 years ago, only natural materials were used, which were brought from nearby forests. This is foam, tow or moss. Today, these are already partly elite types of insulation, they cost serious money due to the need to manually collect them. Many fans of natural materials insulate their buildings with rolled jute felt or tow. Such material can be bought at hardware stores. As for moss, there are conflicting opinions regarding its use. It is said that moss is not an ideal material for insulation, because it provokes the growth of mold or fungi. However, the moss itself does not have such properties, most likely, the fungus is formed due to improper felling of a wooden structure or poor ventilation.

How to work with different types of buildings

The laying procedure and the required amount of work depend on the material from which the bath is built.

Warming of log cabins

When working with a bar or log, you need to take into account the time for shrinkage, which can be 10 cm or more. Plus, gaps form between the crowns of such buildings, and cold air blows in just in them. It is best to insulate a frame made of round timber or an assembly of timber with jute fiber.

This material does not rot and has excellent thermal conductivity. Jute itself is a very fragile material, so manufacturers are trying to add flax fibers to it. But if there is already loose material available, you can perform classic caulking. So there will be less work, and the building will surely retain more heat.

If it is decided to create a bath from wood, then the insulation is laid during construction. It is better to isolate all the problematic parts of the log house in the process.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

Insulation of buildings made of brick or foam blocks

If the log cabins are insulated in a primitive way, then the masonry will have to work hard. Yes, and there are more financial investments for work with insulation. Additional thermal insulation is necessary, otherwise a well-heated room will cool down in hours. It is better to work, investing in materials, than to stock up on fuel all the time.

A common and proven method is a hinged ventilated facade. The working process does not come from within, but from outer side baths. It is necessary to fix the layers of insulation to the walls, and sheathe them with siding or clapboard on top. In the gap between the layers, an air-filled space is formed, thanks to which condensation will not form on the walls and rotting and dampness will not follow.

The width of the frame for a ventilated facade is made greater than the thickness of the insulation, so an air gap is formed inside, which prevents the formation of condensate

For a brick building, the following trick is often practiced: indoors, a steam room is made of wood. Brick absorbs heat for a very long time, so it is easier to warm a small steam room naturally if you use a small frame.

Enough timber 10x10 and crates. The process of warming such an impromptu steam room inside a large bath is simple:

You can make it even easier: do not use a beam, but instead immediately fix the insulation on the frame. In this case, you will need an additional layer of waterproofing.

Calculation and selection of materials and tools

We insulate all surfaces of the steam room, washing room and dressing room. And for this you will need:

1. Roll paper (on the ceiling and walls).
2. Beam-rail (5x5, for mounting insulation on the ceiling and walls).
3. Foil.
4. Insulating tape.
5. Self-tapping screws.
6. Aluminum adhesive tape.
7. Insulation, calculated on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwalls, ceilings and floors.

Of the tools you will need:

• screwdriver;
• level and plumb.

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath

Any stages of insulation are always carried out according to the golden rule - they start from the ceiling and end with the floors.

Ceiling insulation

Before you start working with the ceiling, you need to understand that in the steam room you need 2 times more material. After all, we are not working on a sauna, but on a Russian bath, where the steam should linger as long as possible.

The technology is like this:

1. We cover the entire surface of the ceiling with roll paper overlap.
2. We fix the bars on top of the paper, a heater will already lie between them.
3. Cover it all with foil. It will become a normal, safe insulator. But it is necessary to mount the foil without saving. It is important that all connections are closed.

   The foil layer reflects heat, so the use of such a material for a bath is necessary

4. We glue all the joints on the foil with aluminum tape. Usually foil for insulation comes with the material.
5. We fix the edges and joints with several layers of adhesive tape. We check our work for tightness. If there is not enough money for such a heater, then the foil is sometimes replaced with cardboard or thick paper without paint.
6. Next, we mount the layers of insulation on the foil between the closed bars.

   On the ceiling, it is better to lay the insulation in two or three layers with overlapping joints

7. We close the front part of the ceiling with a clapboard under a tree. This material is resistant to elevated temperatures and will not tar.

For a frame bath, it is necessary to put insulation on the ceiling and walls, but for a timber and log bath you can do without it. For example, if the bath is made of logs, it is enough to pre-sew up its ceiling with thick boards - at least 6 cm. Mineral wool is most suitable as a heater for the ceiling - you just need to lay it in a layer of at least 15 cm.

Video: insulation and finishing of the ceiling from the inside

Wall insulation

The best solution for wall insulation is a constructor made of materials that can be easily repaired or replaced.

The structure of the bath wall insulation resembles a roofing pie

Video: insulation and foil upholstery in a steam room

Floor insulation in the bath

And finally, let's work on the floor. After all, a large amount of heated air usually leaves the room through it. Expanded clay is most often used as insulation for floors - it is an inexpensive and reliable insulation that prevents the appearance of mold and condensation.

It is cheaper, of course, to sprinkle everything with slag, but expanded clay is more environmentally friendly and weighs less. When installing wooden floors, the material is placed between the lags. If a concrete floor is poured, then expanded clay is placed between each concrete layer.

Let's analyze the usual cycle of work on the insulation of the concrete floor.

Video: features of the concrete floor device in the bath

In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, they also pay attention to the insulation of doors, windows and window openings. They are processed silicone sealants. It is customary to insulate external doors with natural materials. And it is not customary to save on them, otherwise in a few years, or even for the next season, everything will have to be redone.

Lining is a finishing material, it is attached to the walls when all other work is completed, including insulation. Therefore, the question of how to insulate the bath from the inside under the lining should be asked long before its installation begins.

However, it happens differently - the bath has long been finished, but it does not suit how it keeps warm. And then you need to think about how to properly insulate the bath under in order to eliminate the problem with thermal insulation. Of course, it will have to be dismantled for a while. And then - to act exactly as if you were just building.

Types of suitable heaters

In our opinion, it makes sense to divide the types of thermal insulation materials for a bath into sheet, roll And backfill. In addition, there are heaters that are applied to the walls in the form foam or moistened mass- These are polyurethane foam and ecowool, which are sprayed using special equipment.

Mineral wool can be purchased in rolls or sheets. It all depends on its density and the binders used.

BY THE WAY! We rarely name specific brands, but do you understand that under the names Rockwool or Izover there is one and the same mineral wool produced by different companies?

Basalt wool- This is a type of mineral wool, a literal indication of a similar mineral used. There is practically no difference.

Basalt wool for baths

But to confuse mineral wool and glass wool it’s not worth it - these are different heaters, from different materials and with different properties.

glass wool it is no longer worth using anywhere, because it is extremely unpleasant for a person - when it gets on the skin, it causes itching, it is dangerous to health if it gets into the eyes or respiratory organs. Yes, and fiberglass crumbles during operation, turns into dust, and it penetrates through the cracks, and you breathe it.

Dislikes fiberglass insulation and elevated temperatures, characteristic of the bath.

Styrofoam And extruded polystyrene foam- good heaters, especially the last one, but it is dangerous to use them in a bath. They are categorically not suitable for a steam room, but could (theoretically) be used in other rooms, but we will not recommend them, as they are fire hazardous.

ADVICE! In the bath, foam plastic and foam plastic can be used in floors under a concrete screed - there they pose no danger.

So, leafy heaters are mineral wool, foam glass (an excellent, but expensive insulation), calcium silicate and magnesium silicate sheets, non-recommended polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene.

Foam glass

Rolled heaters are again mineral wool (lower density), glass wool. foamed polyethylene, with or without foil (penofol, isolon, etc.).

We have already spoken about fiberglass, now about foam polyethylene e. It is often used as an additional insulation in residential buildings, but polyethylene does not tolerate high temperatures, so you should not use it instead of foil to insulate the steam room.

Foil insulation Penofol

IMPORTANT! Polyethylene at a temperature of one hundred degrees already melts. By the way, it supports combustion.

In general, it is quite possible to insulate other rooms of the bath with them (as a second layer).

Bulk we will divide the heaters for the bath into those that can be moistened and “glued” to the wall, and those that cannot. Expanded clay and vermiculite belong to the second category, ecowool - to the first.

AND vermiculite can be used for floor insulation and, where they perfectly hold and keep heat indoors. In order to insulate the walls of the bath with them, it is necessary that there is a gap between the two layers of the main material of the wall, a cavity that can be filled with insulation.

Ecowool- this is waste paper (cellulose) shredded into dust, flame retardants so that it does not support combustion. And she really does not support him - this is good material for warming baths where it is on sale. Ecowool is used in dry and wet form. In dry - for warming floors and ceilings, as well as for filling cavities. In wet - for application to the walls.

Also on our website you can read two articles that make a more complete overview of heaters that can be used in the bath:

Insulation for lining in baths built from different materials

How does the wall material affect the choice of thermal insulation? Let's sequentially consider the options for what a bathhouse can be built from, and compare the material and insulation technology.

Brick

Brick baths - cold And non-combustible. The first circumstance prevents them from becoming traditional, because a cold bath (practically made of stone) needs to be warmed up for a long time, which is not particularly welcome in our high-speed age.

But the fact that it does not burn out is a big plus, given that baths burn most often.

So, it is precisely in order to reduce the disadvantages that thermal insulation should be used - it is most effective in this kind of buildings.

IMPORTANT! The thermal insulation of a brick structure can be not only internal or external, but also located between two layers of brickwork.

The latter circumstance increases the possibility of choosing a heater. Backfill expanded clay or ecowool is a great solution. Ecowool, for example, is used in “double beam” constructions, and it has been working great for decades.

You can also fearlessly fill the gap polyurethane foam- it is expensive, it requires hiring a team with equipment, but it is reliable and safe, because polyurethane is combustible, and nothing threatens it in the gap between the layers of brick, including ultraviolet, which destroys it.

In other cases, the traditional mineral wool- most often, because, for all its shortcomings, it does not support combustion, and high-quality ones also do not emit volatile organics that are harmful to health.

You can learn more about the brick wall insulation technology from the article.

Blocks

Of course, a brick is also a block, but in practice we often call products made of slag concrete, foam concrete, aerated concrete. Of course, they are larger and more like blocks, but they still have more internal resemblance than bricks.

The fact is that high-quality brick does not crack, holds fasteners well, and does not pick up moisture. In essence, it is burnt clay, almost a stone. And concrete blocks either contain light (by density) impurities in the form of slag, or are foamed in one way or another, that is, they contain air bubbles.

You can find out more about the similarities and differences between various foam concrete and cinder concrete.

Both greatly affect a number of qualities. Significantly thermal conductivity decreases blocks, they themselves perfectly keep heat even without heaters. But most of them are afraid of water, all of them do not hold fasteners well (it is problematic to hammer a nail into such a wall, but what about fasteners, for example?). Breaking blocks is pretty easy.

But we are talking about thermal insulation. Do blocks need it? Yes, in the bath and living quarters it is needed, especially if the climate is harsh. But in addition to thermal insulation, it is worth taking good care of waterproofing wall material. To do this, it is closed with all sorts of films and membranes.

Mineral wool is also afraid of water, so it’s better to be afraid of blocks and mineral wool together, under a layer of vapor and waterproofing inside and out. You will find the device of the correct heat-insulating cake in the article.

frame

A frame structure, in essence, is a heater between the slats, closed on both sides with OSB shields, boards, and other sheet material.

In other words, insulation is the main of two or three materials, forming a wall. Therefore, there is no need to carry out any additional work on thermal insulation if the initial calculation was made correctly and you correctly selected the thickness of the insulation.

Frame wall pie. See more about the insulation of frame walls.

Standard "pie", that is, the layers that make up the wall of the frame structure are as follows:

• if you start from the inside, then the first layer will be finishing, for example, lining;
• lining is nailed to the crate, which is attached to the racks of the frame;
• under the crate there is a mandatory layer of vapor protection, that is, a material that is one hundred percent impervious to water vapor - it can be a plastic film or foil;
• vapor protection directly covers the insulation, which is most often mineral wool, but there can also be reed slabs, a mixture of sawdust and gypsum / cement / clay, ecowool;
• the insulation is located between the racks of the frame, equal to them in the thickness of the layer;
• next comes, for example, an OSB board, which covers the thermal insulator from the outside and stiffens the structure;
• a membrane or a waterproofing film is mounted on top of the wall panel, which is permeable to water vapor from the side of the insulation, and impervious to the opposite side;
• on top of the waterproofing, the outer wall decoration is attached.

More detailed information about frame insulation technologies is in the article.

Wood

Wooden baths are either log cabins, that is, they are placed from cylindrical logs, or from a bar- logs with a square or rectangular section.

By tradition, such baths do not need additional thermal insulation at all, if they are correctly laid and carried out. caulk gaps between crowns. As a material for caulking can be used tow, moss, linen. But for laying between the crowns at the construction stage, it is most often recommended to lay strips jute.

natural heaters in the bath are preferable, but in addition to this, you can use modern wood sealants, which have a certain elasticity, which allows them to change dimensions along with the one that “breathes” even after the building has given final shrinkage.

If, during the operation of the bath, it turned out that the thickness of the beam or frame does not correspond to the severity of the climate, then you have to do additional insulation. This is also a standard "pie", consisting of lining, crates, vapor protection and insulation, the latter being attached directly to a wooden wall.

About how a bath from a bar is insulated, it is said in the article.

How to properly insulate in a steam room

steam room- this is the main bathing room, from which visitors expect certain properties, in particular - long-term heat retention. To do this, it is insulated, but this must be done taking into account the preferences of certain traditions.

The point is that in Russian bath long-term heating and heat retention is carried out due to long-term heating by the same brick oven. Slowly heated wooden surfaces also give off heat for a long time. If the thickness of the walls is not small and there are no gaps in them, then additional insulation is not required.

In addition, the Russian bath is not chasing high temperatures. If you make a "thermos" in it, it can become an obstacle to maintaining fairly low temperatures(40-70 degrees), typical for this type of national bath. "Thermos" is made using foil.

For more information on using ceiling foil, see this

As for the Finnish bath - sauna, then the task is precisely to reach the set high temperature in the steam room in the shortest possible time and keep it until the end of the procedures, subject to intensive air exchange.

It is worth warming the steam room only if there are real problems with heat loss.

ADVICE! Focus on the material of the walls: in a brick bath, the thermal insulation of a steam room is mandatory, in a frame bath, the thickness of the walls is included in the project, in a block bath it can be moderate, with more emphasis on waterproofing, and in a wooden one it may not be needed at all.

About the "thermos" a little lower, but otherwise the insulation scheme looks standard - most use mineral wool, because in fact there are not so many options for insulation in the bath for lining the steam room. But even if it is mineral wool, you need to pay attention to the fact that it is intended strictly for saunas and baths - this means that in it reduced content of phenols and other harmful substances in a bunch for stone fibers.

Apart from mineral wool in the steam room baths can be used ecowool, and some other materials that are harmless to health.

You already know what wooden walls bath insulation is placed directly, in other cases it separates steam protection one side and hydroprotection with another. This applies to heaters that are afraid of moisture and lose their insulating properties from its action.

You can read more about the materials and technologies for thermal insulation of the steam room in the article.

Basalt wool specially designed for baths and saunas

Foil

Foil always arouses fierce controversy. The disputes themselves are divided into two categories: is foil needed in a Russian bath and what is its effectiveness in reflecting heat.

Let's start with the fact that mirror surfaces have long been used for focusing and redirects different types of radiation, including infrared - remember the device of the same reflector. Lining in the bath is not a hindrance to infrared radiation.

IMPORTANT! But there is an essential condition for the operation of a mirror surface as a reflector - it is necessary that there be air in front of the foil. Adjacency of other material to the foil from the side of reflection is unacceptable. The ventilation gap from the foil to the lining is just right.

As for the use of foil in a Russian bath, there is no categorical prohibition, of course, but it is desirable that you have ways temperature control, for example, with the help of ventilation and the oven itself. In a steam room with an iron stove without lining with brick or stone, with foil insulation, you will get a tough version of the sauna, the harm from which is more than good.

We have two articles in which we analyze the types of foil and the arguments for and against its use in the bath -,

A little about insulation inside and out

Buildings are isolated from the external temperature not only from the inside, but also from the outside, however, each type has its own specifics that you need to know in order to make the right choice.

Residential buildings often insulated from the outside. Have you wondered why? The main reason is to make sure that the insulation is the first to take the blow of frost, and the wall material under it freezes less. Consequently, the temperature difference between the room and the wall is reduced, along the way shifting the dew point.

BUT! All this works in a constantly heated room, that is, in residential buildings.

A bath is a place occasional use, in winter you warm it up for a long time, spending part of the heat released from the stove to raise the temperature of walls, ceilings and floors. So, if thermal insulation is done inside, then the time to warm up the bath is reduced, because the low thermal conductivity of the insulator allows you to heat almost only air.

If the bath is isolated outside, walls, floors and ceilings are inside the protection, and the furnace will have to work hard to heat this mass of wood or stone. That is why it is not recommended to insulate periodically used rooms from the outside. Or do it in parallel with internal insulation where the climate is especially harsh. in Telegram to keep abreast of all the news of the site! Vkontakte