Do you need an entrance vestibule in a private house, or make a traditional canopy - this question is asked by everyone who is busy building a cottage or just designing future housing. Most homeowners consider the vestibule necessary in our harsh climate, because this room should become a reliable barrier to the cold. Others are sure that modern entrance doors, insulation and heating systems make it possible to do without it. Should the vestibule be necessarily cold, or instead of it, it is better to equip a warm entrance hall right away - FORUMHOUSE participants share their experience and opinions.
Choosing a door structure
The main reason why homeowners decide to build vestibules in private homes is the reluctance to let in cold air from the street every time the front door is opened. There are fears that the front door from the street directly into the house will freeze due to temperature changes, and in winter frost and frost will form on it. In many cases, this problem can be solved by installing a second door at the entrance to the house. The main function of the vestibule in a private house is to cut off cold street air, not to let it into the room.
According to FORUMHOUSE participant Ivanau air is one of the most the best heaters. That is why in the old windows the craftsmen left a distance between the frames (there is also air space in modern double-glazed windows), and a cold canopy was certainly attached to the house. If the layout and dimensions of a private house do not allow a few square meters, the second door is installed in the same opening as the street door. One opens to the outside, and the other to the inside of the house. Cold streams of street air are trapped here, which prevents the formation of condensate and frost (or, if the space between the doors is too small, it forms in smaller quantities).
Member of FORUMHOUSE Alexey4:
- I have wooden house big size, the outer door is metal, it leaked in winter. I will put the second inner one - wooden or metal-plastic - in the same box.
What should be the entrance to the house, homeowners always understand with close attention. Traditionally, many prefer a metal front door. But metal is different for metal. And the same designs that are suitable for an apartment of small dimensions can create problems with freezing in an individual country house.
A metal door installed from the street must be insulated. Especially if there is no vestibule at all, and you immediately get into the house from the threshold, or you plan to arrange an insulated veranda. You should pay attention to the quality of the filler.
Advantages and disadvantages of fillers
amethyst:
- I personally solved the problem of a “weeping” door with a 10 mm penofol. Time has shown that this year not a single drop has formed, and it has become really warmer on the veranda - before, the IR heater there could not raise above + 10C, this winter it confidently holds more than +15 C.
Also today, manufacturers offer doors with a thermal break between the layers of insulation, in which, coupled with traditional mineral wool, additional isolon and cork are used, which often reduces the risk of cold penetration and part of the sounds from the street.
Member of FORUMHOUSE mbl:
- I installed a door with a thermal break, checked it with a thermal imager in January frosts - I specially rented it. The temperature outside was -20 degrees, inside the room +22. The overall result: the canvas is on the "five", the thermal break works. But the magnetic seal is not great in terms of tightness. In the corners where its joints pass, frost siphons - this can be seen in the photo. Now I am changing the seal to a solid one, but it will apparently not be magnetic.
Look at other reviews of our members of the forum about designs.
How to do a quality test
When choosing a design, be sure to check the reliability of the adjoining of the web to the block, the quality of the seals. Many manufacturers save on design and fittings by installing foam rubber seals or seals made of thin cheap rubber, which quickly become unusable or harden in the cold.
Swipe in store before buying small test: you need to take a sheet of paper, place it between the canvas and the block and close the door. See how easy it is for you to remove the sheet now. If he himself falls into your hands, the design has a loose connection, and the cold will freely pass through the cracks.
An expensive solution for getting rid of condensate and frost is metal doors with a thermal cable inside the box. Using the control unit, you can set the required temperature regime doors depending on:
outside temperature;
indoor temperature;
humidity,
opening and closing frequency.
Power consumption, according to manufacturers, is comparable to that of a personal computer. The design of such structures is usually beyond praise.
Vestibule design in a private house
Another point is the interior decoration, the design of the metal door. It can be MDF, PVC coatings, veneer, mirrors. Not all finishes are adapted to hard use, temperature extremes and precipitation: they can swell from moisture and become unusable. The accompanying documentation for the product should indicate whether it is possible to install the door as a street door in a country house in the absence or presence of a cold / warm vestibule. To protect yourself from unpleasant surprises, you can choose metal door, in which both sides - outer and inner - are made of powder-coated metal. It is not afraid of mechanical stress and will protect the material from corrosion.
At FORUMHOUSE you can learn more about metal, as well as wood and metal-plastic private house and consider the design of the entrance vestibule. You can also study the experience of our forum members on self-insulation.
Warm entrance hall, comfortable floors
But the entrance is not the only weak point of the vestibule. Some homeowners, when solving the issue of cutting off the cold and attaching cold vestibules to the building, face another problem: misted double-glazed windows and walls in the tambour room.
Construction is an extremely expensive process, especially by today's standards. Hence, it is quite natural that any space should bear a certain load, that is, not be ownerless. This is a reasonable approach, but it is very disappointing that because of it a small room undeservedly suffered, regarding which certain standards were even created at one time.
Modern builders consider the vestibule in a private house to be completely useless. They motivate this by the fact that a small room without heating only takes heat from the house, therefore, energy consumption increases. This is partly true, but they forget that thanks to this room, the cold from the street does not enter the house. Simply put, the front door is reliably protected from piercing wind and vile precipitation. It is always dry and relatively warm, so the heat from the house does not go outside, but rather stays inside.
The new role of the vestibule in a private house
It is likely that the whole problem of the unpopularity of the tambura lies in its size. What if we make it a little bigger? This will expand its functionality. For example, you can arrange a dressing room in it, where all outerwear and shoes will be located. If your house is connected to a garage, then such a room will act as a buffer zone that will not allow cold and exhaust from the garage to enter the living space.
options for placing a vestibule in a private house 
an example of building a vestibule with your own hands
The main task of the vestibule in a private house is to preserve heat. Despite this, many consider it optional, citing the fact that it is better to install a double door. Indeed, two doors retain heat much better than one. But due to this, the time for which you will get into the house will increase, which means that the cold stream will still be able to enter with you. Therefore, having a small protected space in front of the front door is a must.
Design features of the vestibule in a private house
Having finally decided on the role and functions of the vestibule in a private house, and realizing its necessity, construction can begin. There are Tambours two types: built into the structure of the house and attached to it. Let's take a closer look at each type.
For the construction of an attached vestibule First of all, you need to make a foundation. It makes sense to agree on the foundation design with the designer, since it depends on a number of factors: the composition of the soil, the weight of the structure, the presence of a porch, etc. Most often, a strip foundation is chosen. However, it all depends on the specific situation.
vestibule in the form of a veranda 
outdoor vestibule in a private house
There is no need to arrange heating in this room, i.e. heating is optional. Good enough to insulate the door and walls. Due to this, reliable tightness will be ensured. However, if you want the vestibule to serve as a hallway, you can put an additional radiator or heat gun. But first, let's get back to the building blocks.
Walls are best built from the same material as the house. Additionally, they can be insulated with foam sheets or mats. mineral wool. Regardless of the option chosen, insulation will play an important role. In winter, it will not let heat out of the house, and in summer it will keep it cool.
Now you need to do the floor. Firstly, the floor of the vestibule is lowered below the main floor of the building by 1-2 steps. This will keep warm better. It is better to make the floor concrete in order to protect against the penetration of rodents. On top of the concrete, you can lay a board - this will make the room warmer, or lay a tile, which will help to simplify cleaning. Tiles should be chosen with a rough surface to increase contact with shoes and protect against slipping. Some homeowners organize a water-heated floor in the vestibule, but in our opinion, this is not convenient. Excessive heat in the vestibule will contribute to the formation of condensation on the doors and locks, in winter this can lead to freezing and problems with opening and closing doors. The heating of the vestibule also implies the presence of ventilation in the room.
interior decoration 
house with outside vestibule
As for lighting, placing a window in a vestibule in a private house is not at all necessary. Artificial lighting in the form of a lamp will also suffice, especially given the fact that it will only work a few hours a day. For convenience, many owners provide a small window in the vestibule or doors with glass inserts. This is done for the purpose of natural lighting of the room during the daytime. This decision is entirely at your discretion. Doors with glass inserts will be less airtight and not as reliable. It should be borne in mind that external doors should be mounted so that they open outward.
The size of the vestibule is also not an unimportant thing. Since staying in this room is not significant in time, he does not want to take a lot of space from the total area of \u200b\u200bthe house. However, it is necessary to take into account the comfort both for you and for all members of your family. The dimensions of this room should also provide for the possible movement of furniture from the house to the street and back. Depths of 1.4-1.5 m, in our opinion, will be enough. The width must take into account the dimensions door leaf internal and external doors (it is desirable to install the doors opposite each other).
The built-in vestibule is easier to organize. The same recommendations apply here, with the exception of the construction itself. You will not need additional wall insulation in the vestibule area. Many make an exit to the garage from the vestibule, this is convenient. We recommend placing special mats for cleaning shoes at the entrance. Rugs should have large cells and a hard pile.
Walls from the inside: whim or necessity?
Finishing a room with a constant temperature difference is recommended to choose from moisture-resistant materials. You can see vestibule layout options on our page.
As you can see, building a vestibule is quite simple. This does not require large expenses, for that you will feel all its benefits. Not only will you reduce heating costs, but you will also be able to provide a comfortable environment in your home.
The entrance area in many houses is equipped with a vestibule. A kind of buffer zone in winter blocks the path of the icy air flow, and in summer it leaves the heat outside. In apartment buildings, the vestibule is no less valuable. He adds a few square meters of private territory, fenced off by the front door. Due to this, the smells from the common corridor, often, and the tobacco smoke of smokers in the stairwell, remain outside the apartment. Tambour is a useful part of housing. It's hard to argue with this. Do you need a vestibule in a house or apartment? What is the role of a cold vestibule and how to properly equip it? More details later in the article.
Tambour in a private house
- decorative. In a private house, an extension can be made of any size. It all depends on the plans of the owners. For a small hallway, 3 - 4 m2 is enough, but if the idea arose of combining it with a terrace, the size of the structure is not limited.
Tambour in a private house should be heated. The temperature may not be comfortable for a person to stay there all the time, but sufficient to avoid dampness and keep things dry and warm.
Ideal option - underfloor heating. Coating - ceramic tiles for the floor, which has a rough surface. It is impossible to slip on it, coming from the street in wet shoes. The tile is easy to clean and resistant to surface abrasion. With a warm floor, there is an additional nice bonus: when we come home, having taken off our shoes, we put our feet on the floor at a pleasant temperature or put on heated slippers. Wet shoes left on it will dry naturally. And the wet surface of the floor dries quickly, leaving no marks and streaks.
Radiators heat the room to a predetermined temperature, but for shoes you will have to buy special dryers, and collect puddles with a rag.
Hallway
Since the vestibule is most often an extension to the house, conceived according to the project or made after the move, it must have an autonomous lighting system.
You can use one of the suggested options:
- Natural. A small window is enough for daylight to enter the room. This is quite enough to take off your shoes, outerwear and open the door to the house.
- Electricity. It's not hard to do the wiring. Place the switches at an accessible height for children and comfortable for adults.
- Electric light with motion sensor. In the dark, at the moment of opening the door and entering the room, the sensor reacts and turns on the light. The timer will turn off the light after the set time.
Entrance door
The front door deserves special attention. It depends on its location how effectively the entrance zone will block the way to the cold.
When building a vestibule in a private house, the outer entrance door and the inner one should not be on the same axis (one directly opposite the other). They must be either offset or located relative to each other at an angle. This is the preferred option.
Frosty air rushes from the door into the vestibule, into the wall. If the door to the house is opened at the same time, a small part of the cold will penetrate, but will dissipate at the entrance, without affecting the temperature in the room. with a direct arrangement of doors, the air flow freely enters the house and the existence of the vestibule loses its meaning.
In a small vestibule, you can make an entrance hall. To do this, you need to lay a rug at the door, install lockers for shoes and outerwear or shelves and hangers. Simple and convenient.
It will be of interest to you: REVIEW: Elegant entrance hall in the house (180+ Photos): The most fashionable and affordable interiors
How to do in an apartment building?
Arrangement of the vestibule in apartment building associated with some difficulties:
- There should be enough space to separate part of the common area with a partition with a door.
- On the separated area there should not be public communications - electrical panels, fire hydrants with sleeves. Also, it is impossible to block the exits to the common balconies and to the stairwell, if it is in a house in a separate block.
- Consent of neighbors. They may be against it, and then the dream of a buffer zone between the entrance and the apartment can be forgotten.
Floor plan of modern apartment buildings arranged in a sectoral manner. Each has 2 to 4 apartments. The staircase is usually displayed separately. Often, with such an arrangement of apartments with a vestibule, it is possible to separate not one, but several apartments from the common corridor. With friendly relations between neighbors, even with this option, you can make it quite comfortable by taking out a hanger for outerwear and a shoe rack from the apartment. Also, if there is additional space, you can arrange a pantry or a place to store a bicycle.
In the case when it is impossible to make a hallway out of the vestibule, an additional door will not only block access to smells, but will also be an additional barrier for intruders.
Having decided with borders, it is necessary to choose construction material. The best option- aerated concrete. Lightweight material does not create a large load on the floor. It is easily sawn even with a regular hacksaw for wood. It is laid on a special glue that sets quickly. The door to the vestibule should be as secure as the door to the apartment.
The task turned up at the dacha - to build an extension to the house and on the built extension to make an open ambush, waterproofing, laying tiles, welding a fence. Prior to this, for several seasons we lived without such a vestibule, so in summer all the sand immediately into the house, in winter all the cold too.
This is a view of this part of the house before the reconstruction. Entrance door directly into the house, without a hallway.
The coveners found on the ads broke some unrealistic price for just one wooden frame from our material and were sent to hell. We decided to do everything ourselves, not to order on the side and not to hire third-party workers.
In two days, having piled on, they put the main frame. I am wearing a yellow helmet, my brother is helping, my father is on the sidelines. Strip foundation was flooded last season. May holidays are in the yard.
The beams were impregnated with protective solutions. They were laid on the foundation through the weatherproofing in the form of roofing material.
Square beam 15*15 cm.
For the floor, timber 10 * 20 cm.
They were fixed with long nails in dowels + lock at the ends.
"Looks like something went wrong"
The poles are in the process of being installed. On a hairpin from armature and lining them with tow.
The first pillars rushed to the house like capercaillie:
Horizontal beams rested on the board and were fixed with a corner:
The frame is almost ready. After that, the heights and geometry were tweaked a little more.
Temporary boards have been laid so that life in the house does not stop.
The temporary diagonal screed from the board under the ceiling was subsequently replaced with a metal corner
Photos of some steps of the project are missing, because. the purpose of writing a report was not set, and this post factum from those photographs that were.
From the missing photos:
Between the horizontal bars at the level of the 2nd floor, transverse bars were laid, insulation was stuffed between them, 2 layers of polyethylene and 2 layers of plaster were laid on top.
The base for pouring the screed was ready.
It's time to weld the pillars of the future balustrade.
It's worth getting off topic a little more. About a year and a half ago, I thought that it would be nice to learn how to weld. Began to look for courses, but found nothing worthwhile. Either the schedule is somehow inconvenient, or the money is unmeasured. But the most interesting thing was on some "inexpensive" courses - this is a mandatory practice at the plant (a month or two). As soon as I presented it, I immediately got sick of it. (Surely it was possible to score on practice, I did not find out.) In general, the courses did not work. But don't worry, we'll learn on our own. I watched a number of training videos, read a little. I tried "on rags", the neighbors suggested some basics. In general, podnatorel.
For reliability, it was decided to make poles embedded in a screed and attached to the beams of the frame with capercaillie. Connoisseurs will say that here we are too clever and will be right. Perhaps it could have been simplified. But what's done is done. 200% reliability that the poles will not go anywhere, even if you lie on them. We do everything for ourselves, not for my uncle.
Corner posts made of 4 cm square profile with L-shaped legs, intermediate posts made of 3 cm profile with T-shaped legs.
In some places, metal plates were placed under the paws to straighten the vertical.
Do not look for special beauty of seams. Firstly, it was my first experience of welding thin metal, so I sketched snot in some places, burned it in some places and brewed it ridiculously. And secondly, all this should be hidden under the screed, so it will not be visible and almost did not process the seams.
Note to the owner: After welding, hardened metal is more difficult to drill and generally process, so it is useful to let it go. I put it in the coals in the grill for a couple of hours. After that it was a pleasure to work with him again.
Put, aligned vertically, tightly screwed. We laid a grid for the screed. From the surface of the gypsum plaster, the mesh was raised to the trimmings of the reinforcement. The planned thickness of the run is about 5 cm.
And began to fill the screed. Kneaded on the ground, so that the dirt is not diluted on the spot.
It was necessary to maintain a slope of 1 cm by 1 meter in both directions (towards the far right corner in the photo). This is for the unhindered runoff of precipitation from the surface.
The day turned out to be hot, and even constantly wetted burlap rags did not save the cement from drying out. Started cracking almost immediately. A more liquid dilution did not help much. Polyethylene sank heavily in the screed, polyethylene was abandoned.
But there was hope that the cracks were still on the very surface of the screed, and plus we would have two layers of waterproofing cement on top.
In the meantime, the cement was gaining strength, sheathing with imitation stone, insulation and interior decoration father did. I am not a big master and amateur in woodworking.
In the middle of summer, distracted from the second floor of the extension, they nearly missed the last dry days for laying tiles. Well, in general, they actually missed it, so at the end of August they had to erect a temporary shelter.
At the stage of laying the tiles, it turned out to be not without jambs. The ebbs installed around the perimeter somehow unexpectedly raised the level at the edges of the screed and because of this, the expected 0.5 cm layer of tile adhesive grew into 1.5 and even 2 cm in places where cavities formed near the screed. It was necessary to maintain a given level of slope of 1 cm per 1 meter. In short, 2 times went for glue. Overspending by 3-4 times.
A picture of the first day of tiling with timestamps (out of three that I lazily fiddled with). Clicking will open a large image.
The junctions to the walls were decorated with a plinth.
The seams are filled with waterproofing cement, which has proven itself as a grout in our basement.
Everything was ready to proceed to the last stage - the welding of the balustrade.
The drawing is unpretentious, but safe from the point of view of children (closer to real welding, some improvements were made in terms of technology and finances).
The distances between the balusters were calculated so that they looked more or less visually equal in all spans, because the spacing between the pillars was slightly different.
Because there was a lot of welding to do, and even when I was cooking the racks, I picked up bunnies, I decided that the eyes were more expensive than 1800 rubles. and bought myself a chameleon mask. Incredible thing. Would have been lost without her. For cooking thin metal, when you cook with dots - that's it!
Templates were prepared to simplify the welding of the balustrade segments.
Tube 2*2 cm.
In total, 9 such assemblies had to be welded. By the middle of the process, I filled my hand, everything took a few minutes:
I made a calculation from templates and tubes. I checked diagonals - a guarantee of right angles, fixed with bricks, cooked.
If you don’t mind 2 minutes, then this stop-motion video is about the stage of welding segments.
Welded 9 segments. Painted with 2 coats of primer.
Already at the stage of welding on the balcony, I had to slightly modernize the original drawing, because. the upper pyrilin rested in the wrong place, so this tricky bend with an intermediate fastening to the beam was born.
The balustrade segments were fastened through template beams and then welded.
And then the seams were cleaned for a long and dreary time, including with a file in hard-to-reach places.
Stop motion video of the 2nd and 3rd days of work on the balustrade (5 minutes)
Everything is ready. Only the boxes have not yet been removed.
Photo of some details.
General view from the side.
For the next season, we will put a gluing of two boards on the metal railing - there will be such high wide railings. It will be possible to use it as a bar counter during yesterday's parties.
The main purpose of the canopy in the house is to protect the entrance to the dwelling from the cold. In fact, the canopy is a vestibule, perhaps several bigger size. Due to him living rooms much less "chill out".
Usually little attention is paid to the device of the vestibule. The materials used for their decoration are chosen the cheapest and simplest: board, fiberboard, inexpensive paint. The result, as a rule, is a cramped, cold and nondescript room, which in most cases is quite problematic to talk about the design and functionality of.
Let's formulate the basic requirements for modern hallways in the house:
1. The canopy (together with the boiler room) should protect not only the entrance to the room, but the entire wall of the house from the cold.
2. In order to save space in the hallway, you can make a small cellar for storing products from the garden.
1. When constructing a shallow insulated foundation, soil was chosen for the construction of the cellar. The walls and floors of the cellar, as well as the floors on the ground in the future vestibules, were insulated using 50 mm thick foam plastic sheet. A claydite-concrete screed was made on top of the cellar.
2. The thickness of the bearing brick walls of the boiler room is about 51 cm. bearing wall. Attic floor was insulated in the "old-fashioned" way: along the flooring with outside bituminized paper is laid and a layer of sawdust about 20 cm thick is laid on it.
The main stages of work on the installation of a warm canopy are shown in the photo below.
In addition, 5-chamber double-glazed windows were used in the window structures for the entrance hall, installed in the walls using foam plastic thermal inserts.
The result is a fairly warm canopy. The device of the vestibule in the house is such that it can be used at any time of the year, including winter.
The figure below shows overall plan the resulting canopy for the house.
As can be seen from the plan, the total internal area of the premises is 8 square meters. m Problems, or rather the features of the premises are as follows:
1. Inability to use the central part of the room, which is a walk-through and occupies about 2.5 sq.m of the total area. Thus, the real useful area of the premises is only 5.5 square meters. m.
2. The second feature is associated with a significant difference in heights over a fairly small area. That is, the ceiling height within the room has three levels: 2 m 20 cm, 2 m 50 cm and 2 m 90 cm.
The main thing is that when arranging such a vestibule in the house, it was possible to obtain a usable area exceeding total area premises. The figure below shows that with a room area of actually 5.5 square meters. m, the useful (used) area is almost 9 m 2. In particular, the area of the sports corner is 4 square meters. m, the area of the cellar is another 4 sq.m, the area of \u200b\u200bthe wardrobe is 0.36 sq.m, and the area of the shoe cabinet is 0.36 sq.m. m.
In the lower part - the entrance to the boiler room and the exit to the street, in the middle part - to the sports ground. Above is the entrance to the living quarters. Since the staircase turned out to be the most demanded design, it had to be made by early stage when the actual premises did not yet exist.
After making the stairs, two problems arose.
1. The first problem arose due to the fact that a “dead” space formed to the left of the stairs, shown by the number 1. In order to use this space with benefit, it was decided to make a closet for storing seasonal shoes in this place, at the bottom, and on top is a wardrobe for storing work clothes.
2. The second problem (indicated by an arrow and number 2) is related to the height difference and the need for a safety fence.
The photo below shows how these problems were solved.
In the photo on the left below you can see the door of the shoe cabinet. The dimensions of the cabinet (0.9 × 0.6 × 0.6 m) allow you to store all the shoes.
On the next photo- a wardrobe with dimensions (1.7 × 0.6 × 0.6 m), which is also enough for work clothes. A few words about the device of the rack for safety. Since the structure stands separately, it is not entirely correct to call it a railing. WITH inside there are three shelves for storing small things (brushes, keys, etc.). WITH outer side made a box for storing shoe brushes and cream.
Since the structure of the rack is welded from metal square pipes (20 × 40 mm) and in this part of the room the height from floor to ceiling is 2 m 90 cm, it was decided to make a crossbar for the horizontal bar, which turned out to be especially important in winter.
The sports corner was perfectly complemented by a Swedish wall and a hinged board. For the manufacture of the wall and hinged board, a larch board 60 mm thick was used. Of the tools you need a planer, a hacksaw, an electric drill, a grinder. For the manufacture of a hinged board, leather substitute and artificial felt as a substrate were additionally used.
The total area of the sports corner for classes is approximately 2 × 2 meters. There is a ventilated window. The dimensions of the site, if necessary, allow you to put a small simulator and other sports equipment. But the main highlight is hidden under the sports corner. As you can see in the photo, there is a manhole (hatch) for the cellar in the floor of the sports ground. And although there is a large traditional cellar on the site, this small cellar turned out to be much more convenient and in demand.
The brick wall of the cellar is finished with cement-sand plaster.
The wall in the hallway from the side of the log house is finished PVC panels on a wooden crate made of timber, without the use of heaters. The photo below shows individual stages works.
It is known that a gas heating boiler when burning 1 cu. m of gas requires about 10 - 11 cubic meters. m of air. It is because of this that SNiP imposes requirements on the installation of a boiler room both in terms of the volume of the room and the organization of the supply and exhaust ventilation. At the same time, it is necessary that in the cold season the air to maintain combustion in the boiler equipment should not be cold, that is, it should be taken directly from the street, it must be preheated. The canopy in the house is just used to ensure that the air in the boiler room does not come directly from the street, but from the vestibule.
In order to implement this, in the carrier brick wall, separating the entrance hall and the boiler room at the stage of construction work, a channel was made from the ASB pipe with a conditional diameter of 150 mm. The photo below shows three channels: for the passage of air, for pipe water supply and below on the left - for laying electrical wiring.
Thus, with the door to the boiler room closed, the boiler room and the vestibule in the house are connected through a channel in the wall with a diameter of 150 mm. Cold air enters first into the hallway, and only then into the boiler room. In addition, the total volume of the air space of the boiler room due to the air connection with the hallway has increased from 20 cubic meters. m up to 35 cubic meters, while the norm of SNiP is at least 15 cubic meters. m per boiler.
In conclusion, we note that in fact, there are much more possibilities for using the canopy. In cold or rainy weather, you can make crafts in them, since the area of \u200b\u200bthe sports ground allows this, you can relax, read, work with a laptop, etc. in them.
