The strict and refined beauty of wood has always been appreciated by man. Until now, wooden floors have not gone out of fashion, creating worthy competition for laminate, tile or linoleum. But it is not enough to equip such a floor in the house - for its long service life, protection from mold, fungus and woodworm insects is necessary. The question arises - how to cover the wooden floor in order to protect it and preserve the structure of the tree.
For this purpose, various impregnations are used. Depending on the purpose of the room in the house, the thickness and composition of the wood used, the necessary properties of the impregnating solution are selected. They will provide the floorboards with maximum protection from external influences.
What can be impregnation
The construction market boasts a huge range of impregnations. They differ in protective properties, chemical composition and basis. They may have the following protection methods.
Antiseptic
Prevent the appearance of rot, fungus and mold. This type of solution is the most toxic, and care must be taken when working with it, using protective equipment and ensuring sufficient ventilation in the room.
Most often, clay, silicate and bituminous compounds are used for this. Some antiseptics can be made independently, from low-toxic liquids available in the house, for example, oils and products of their processing.
The use of such “homemade” impregnations on new, pest-free floors gives a long-term positive effect and allows you to protect people and pets from the effects of toxic substances.
flame retardant
Reduce the ability of wood to ignite. Such impregnation usually contains various phosphates or boric acid. With a significant increase in temperature on boards treated with such chemicals, a film is formed that prevents them from igniting.
Water repellent
Wood has strong moisture absorbing properties. Getting on its porous surface, water causes swelling and creates favorable conditions for the appearance of fungus and rot. This is especially true for the floor in the kitchen or in the bath. The use of impregnation will allow you to avoid such troubles, because, by filling the wood pores with its composition, it creates a moisture-repellent layer.
Combined
Represented by a combination of antiseptic + water repellency. Flame retardants are sometimes added.
As a rule, when a protective treatment of a wooden floor is performed, combined compositions are used.
On the basis they may differ:
- Ground protection. Such impregnations combine the qualities of primer mixtures and the necessary protective properties. After their application, in compliance with all the rules of priming, the finishing application of the decorative layer on the floor surface is carried out.
- Impregnating solutions requiring, after drying, subsequent priming and painting with paints and varnishes.
According to the chemical composition, such a primer can be:
- Epoxy. More often it is a primer-impregnating mixture based on epoxy resins and with the addition of various components with antiseptic properties. It creates a durable water-repellent film on the surface of the board. Epoxy compounds have excellent protective properties. They are best used in wet areas, in the kitchen, bath or bathroom.
- Alkyd impregnating mixture is considered one of the best. Ideal for wet areas in the home, low toxicity, can be used as a primer or as a pretreatment solution before primer. Using it in the kitchen or bath will reliably protect flooring from moisture and mold. Minus - it takes a long time to dry. The drying process takes about 18 hours.
- Shellac - based on methyl alcohol and milky juice of insects. It is used when it is not possible to ensure high-quality drying of the floor, it has high protective properties. After its application and before subsequent priming, it is necessary to wait until the methyl alcohol penetrates into the wood structure and displaces the water.
- Acrylic is the easiest to use. As a rule, this impregnating primer-mixture is made on a water-dispersion basis, easily fills the pores of wood, dries quickly and reliably protects against rot.
The choice depends on the room
When choosing how to cover the floorboard for its reliable protection, it is necessary to take into account the purpose of the room in the house and on the street.
Rooms with high humidity
When treating floors in the kitchen or bathroom, as in any other room in the house that people often visit, it is necessary to choose solutions with low toxicity. For the kitchen and bathroom, it is better to use products with low toxicity and having water-repellent protection with an antiseptic.
In rooms such as a kitchen or bathroom, additional anti-slip treatment of floors with special products is highly desirable, which are either part of the primer impregnation or applied on top of it before the decorative coating and give the floor a slightly noticeable roughness. Treatment with anti-slip agents significantly reduces injuries.
This is especially important for the kitchen, where the humidity is high and the likelihood of grease getting on the flooring.
living rooms
When choosing how to cover the floor in a room in a house, you can take any low-toxic compound, because these rooms have moderate humidity and do not require such protection as in the kitchen or bathroom. But here, decorative floors require more careful processing of each parquet element.
Floors outside the home
For verandas, gazebos and terraces, impregnating agents of any toxicity with an antiseptic property and high water repellency are suitable. It is best to make several layers of impregnation here for reliable protection.
How to ensure maximum processing protection
This process is simple and the same for floors in a residential building and other premises:
- the floor must be dried, leveled and dust-free (it is better to treat it with white spirit for degreasing);
- apply the impregnating solution with a roller or brush;
- wait for drying;
- primed, if not primer-impregnations were used;
- apply a decorative finish.
When deciding how to cover the wooden floor in the utility rooms or in the house, it is necessary to take into account all the external influences that the floor covering will be exposed to during operation.
In this case, it is better to play it safe and use a more reliable protective treatment than to spend money on replacing rotten boards later.
When it comes to building a private house, the second most important issue after the foundation is the need to isolate the floor of the first floor from moisture that can penetrate from the base of the floor. Especially when you consider that the most affordable and comfortable flooring is wood - environmentally friendly, beautiful, warm, but highly susceptible to the damaging effects of moisture.
As a result, after a few years, the wooden floor of the first floor can begin to rot and decompose.
Therefore, the main conditions for its comfortable operation are the following:
- mandatory processing of the wooden floor elements themselves with protective compounds;
- a device of high-quality waterproofing, designed to protect the floor from the effects of ground moisture.
Many people believe that it is enough to simply arrange a cement screed, on which the logs are then mounted. And it guarantees the protection of the floor from moisture. Unfortunately, this is not so. And the cement screed perfectly conduct moisture with little or no harm to themselves. But a tree that is not additionally protected absorbs it like a sponge.
Without exception, all elements of a wooden floor must be pre-treated with moisture-proof compounds. They penetrate into the structure of the tree, making it immune to water.
If you bought raw, you will have to process it yourself special means. Usually these are complex impregnations that protect the tree not only from moisture, but also from mold, fungus and insects.
They are divided into two types:
- film-forming - require periodic processing (every 5 - 6 years);
- penetrating - form a reliable barrier to moisture.
It is better to use the second impregnation option. The composition is applied with a sprayer or simply with a brush. It penetrates well into the structure of the tree and dries completely within two to three hours. For reliability, it is better to carry out processing several times.
Having protected the floor from direct exposure to moisture, it is equally important to ensure that its design does not allow it, even hypothetically, to have a direct effect on the elements of the floor. To do this, use some constructive techniques for preparing the base of the floor.
Even if you are building a house on a completely dry site with deep groundwater, the foundation under the house must be prepared in good faith.
Preparation consists in mounting a three-layer base:
- The first and lowest layer is compacted soil, which is rammed with manual rammers or using special equipment.
- The second layer is sand laid in a layer of about 10 cm (if the soil in the area is dry, if it is heaving, then the sand cushion should be 20 cm thick). It itself is a good waterproofing.
- The last layer of preparation is a cushion of crushed stone, poured in a layer of 10 cm and carefully compacted.
Performing this preparation creates an obstacle for moisture and does not allow it to rise to higher layers of the future floor structure.
The tamping of the layers makes the base of the floor more durable. If ground water are located at a depth of 2 m or more, then expanded clay can be used instead of crushed stone, which has good thermal insulation characteristics.
The further order of work depends on which floor design you have chosen.
Most often, the floor of the first floor is performed in one of the following ways:
- floor on support posts;
- floor on a concrete base.
Measures for waterproofing the floor laid on the pillars-supports
For comprehensive protection of wooden logs and floors:
- Inside the mounted basement of the future house, pits are dug at a distance of 0.8 -1.5 m. This is the meta location of future pillars. At the bottom of each pit, a sand and gravel pillow is arranged. A plastic film is laid on top of it, which should extend to the surface of the soil by 25–30 cm.
- Support posts are laid out or cast from concrete. After the mortar has dried or the concrete has cured, they are treated with a special waterproofing mastic.
- The entire surface of the underground is lined with roofing material so that it extends 20 cm onto the walls of the basement. Sheets of roofing material are connected using mastic. In the corners, it is better not to cut the material, but to carefully fold it into folds. Thus, something like an airtight container is formed in the subfield.
- The upper sections of the columns are smeared with bitumen and pieces of roofing material are glued to it, designed to protect the basement beams or logs from contact with brick or concrete.
- Floor beams are laid on the posts.
- Each beam is equipped with two cranial bars intended for laying the subfloor.
- Install the subfloor. Usually these are low quality boards or even slabs. But it is worth remembering that the wane must be cleaned, and the boards themselves treated with waterproofing impregnation.
- Often the surface of the subfloor, especially if it is creviced, is smeared with a clay solution. It is an additional waterproofing layer.
- Logs are mounted on the beams.
- Then the entire subfloor is covered with roofing felt or film so that the joints overlap by 10–15 cm. The joints are fixed with adhesive tape.
- If floor insulation is provided, then a heater is laid on the film, which is closed from above vapor barrier film fixed on the joists.
- On the logs, the floor is mounted from the prepared and processed floorboard.
Compliance with the above technology of work allows you to get a triple protection of the floor from moisture: roofing material on the ground, clay on subfloor, film and vapor barrier directly under the floor covering.
If you decide to use a concrete screed as the base of the floor, then you need to proceed as follows:
- A rolled waterproofing material (most often roofing material) is laid on the prepared soil base so that it extends 10-15 cm onto the walls of the basement. If the base is wet, then you can lay the material in 2 layers - along and across the house.
- Sheets of roofing material are interconnected using heated bituminous mastic, achieving maximum tightness.
- A heater is mounted along the roofing material - extruded PPS or expanded clay.
- A layer of waterproofing is again laid on top of the insulation - a plastic film. She is also taken to the walls.
- Further, a reinforcing mesh is mounted along it and beacons are installed.
- On the lighthouses, they pour and level the finishing layer concrete screed and wait for it to dry completely.
Sometimes, for reliability, two layers of screed are made, separated by a layer of waterproofing and. The surface of the screed is strengthened with reinforcing, impregnating and waterproofing compounds that create a strong moisture-proof film on the surface. For this, asphalt concrete, bitumen, liquid rubber, betonite are used. After that, you can proceed with the installation of wooden floor structures.
Thus, the protection of a wooden floor from moisture consists not only and not so much in the processing of the wood itself, but is a whole range of measures, the implementation of which guarantees a multi-layer waterproofing of the future floor.
Wood floor protection
In order to protect wood floors from fungus and insect development in it that destroy it, the floors must be antiseptic. In other words, the wooden floor elements must be protected from high humidity, which is an ideal environment for the development of a wood-destroying fungus. And also with the help of toxic impregnations, destroy harmful insects.
Moisture protection with waterproofing materials
When laying a wooden floor, you need to pay attention to the places where the floor adjoins concrete and brick structures (walls, screed). In such places, it is necessary to lay waterproofing (roofing material, hydrobarrier) or coat the junctions bituminous mastic. Under no circumstances should wooden elements be hermetically wrapped. waterproof materials. This will only aggravate and accelerate the decay of the tree (as a result of lack of ventilation).
Walls, in order to avoid condensation, must be insulated and protected with a vapor barrier, otherwise the resulting condensate will drain, moistening the floor.
When laying wooden beams on brick columns, it is necessary to use waterproofing pads (roofing material, rubber, roofing felt). The columns themselves are smeared with hot bituminous mastic twice.
underground under wooden floors must be ventilated. For this, in basement walls buildings, openings with enclosing gratings and nets are arranged.
Antiseptic and fire protection, when laying new floors
Wood preservative is a treatment (impregnation, coating) with special substances that are toxic to fungi and insects. Currently, universal antiseptics are used, which have both antifungal and fire retardant properties.
Before proceeding with the treatment of wood with an antiseptic, it must be prepared. Namely:
Thoroughly clean the tree from the remaining bark;
Clean from dirt;
Sort by breed;
Dry to acceptable humidity (humidity should be no more than 25%);
The antiseptic is selected depending on the purpose of the structure, as well as on the aggressiveness of the environment in which the floors are located.
If the wood is hardwood, then for deep impregnation, before processing, it is pierced.
For antiseptic wood, antiseptic pastes, oil antiseptics, as well as water formulations are used. Water antiseptics, wooden floor elements (logs, boards, plinths) are impregnated in bathrooms (tanks). The impregnation time and the temperature of aqueous solutions depend on the antiseptic used. Oil antiseptics are more durable, they are impregnated "hot", in baths at a temperature of 90 - 100 degrees. When working with such baths, they must be tightly covered with lids.
Paste can be applied with a brush. The surface of the wood smeared with a brush should not have gaps.
The wooden floor elements treated with an antiseptic, before laying, must dry for 12 hours at an air temperature of 18 - 22 degrees.
When installing wooden floors on floor slabs, they are often insulated with sawdust. Sawdust should be antiseptic with dry antiseptic powders. Such work is carried out indoors by mixing the powder with sawdust.
When working with antiseptics, you need to follow all safety measures, and these are:
Mandatory use of personal protective equipment, rubber gloves, goggles, respirator or gas mask;
The room where antiseptic is carried out must be ventilated;
Containers and tools, after finishing work, must be washed;
When working outdoors, the worker is on the windy side;
Storage of antiseptics should be in a closed container.
Antiseptic and fire protection, during the reconstruction of floors
If the floor is reconstructed, where the structure remains non-separable, antiseptic is performed aqueous solutions under pressure. That is, with the help of special tools, such as a hydraulic control. Working with a hydraulic control, the jet is directed through all possible slots and holes, as well as to junctions. If it is completely “spilled”, the wooden structure is difficult, which means that its partial disassembly is necessary.
During the reconstruction of parquet floors, after their grinding, before painting, special antiseptic, deeply penetrating primers are used. Such a primer is thoroughly mixed, and applied with a brush to the floor.
Mold control
Over time, white mold may appear on the floors. The appearance of such mold can be for various reasons, these are:
Previously, the floors were not treated with an antiseptic, as a result, the fungus spread from the wall or other structure;
High humidity and lack of ventilation (in this place);
Freezing of the floor (as a result, after thawing - a humid environment)
In any case, this mold should be disposed of immediately. Since mold is nothing but a fungus. Mold reproduces very quickly with the help of spores. To do this, you just need a humid environment, plus temperature and lack of ventilation, these three factors create comfortable conditions for the reproduction and further spread of mold.
Ideally, to get rid of the source of infection, this is, of course, the replacement of the infected area. But if this is impossible to do, then it is urgent to process not only the infected places, but also those close to them, wooden structures. First, you need to prepare the surface. Clean it from the fungus with a metal brush. You can treat the cleaned surface with a 9% composition of acetic acid (spraying from a spray bottle), or hydrogen peroxide (3% solution). After that, the treated area should be allowed to dry, wiped with a soft brush or cloth and re-treated with a special antifungal compound.
And the last stage is impregnation with drying oil (preferably hot) and painting.
But, the most important thing in this situation is to eliminate (in an infected and already treated place) a favorable environment for the reproduction of the fungus, so that a similar situation does not happen again.
Application of processed wooden elements
The thickness of the tongue-and-groove board laid on the logs with a step of 800 mm must be at least 32 mm. Thickness edged board- 40 mm or more. The material used is pine, spruce, oak. Humidity - 15% no more.
The minimum cross section of the logs laid on the posts is 100 x 100 mm. The material used is oak, the permissible humidity is 18%.
The thickness of the logs laid on the screed or floor slabs is 40 mm., The width is 80 mm. Any type of wood is used.
Antiseptic treated wood does not require additional primer before painting. But painting should be done twice.
For a wooden floor to serve long time, it should be coated with a protective agent. The floor is made of natural wood- this is the advantage of any apartment. It is he who makes the interior cozy, stylish and rich. But unfortunately, natural material influenced by environmental factors. On the appearance and performance characteristics of wood can be adversely affected by open sunlight, changes temperature regime, increasing the humidity in the room. To protect the wooden floor from rapid wear, repair and replacement, to preserve the original appearance of the coating, you need to take care of its protection. How and how to process a wooden floor, read below.
The choice of composition: how to process wooden floors in the house
The best way to protect the coating from rotting, abrasion, fading, insects and drying out is to cover it with a special compound. Today, the woodworking materials market offers mixtures that can not only reliably protect wood from any damage, but also emphasize its decorative qualities. The choice of composition depends on each specific case.
Composition for processing wood flooring can be bought at any hardware store
For the treatment of floors inside the house, you should choose gentle formulations with biocides that are safe for humans and pets.
When buying wood floor protection products, carefully read the label and composition.
Pay attention to the expiration date of the product. If it is tens of years, then most likely you have a substance for outdoor work. Such products contain aggressive biocides that are dangerous to human health. Branded products often place a number on the label hotline where you can get answers to all your questions. Do not hesitate to call, because not only the "life" of your wooden floor depends on it, but also the health of all the inhabitants of the house.
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Varnishes for wooden floors: how and with what to cover the floor
The most common wood protection product is varnish. Floor varnishes not only protect the surface from moisture, dirt, insects and the sun, but also give it a shine, emphasize the natural color of the wood.
You should choose a wood varnish that does not contain harmful substances.
There are several types of varnishes that have different characteristics:
- Waterborne varnishes. Such varnishes dry quickly, do not have an unpleasant odor and adhere well to the base. Depending on the type of water-soluble varnish (single- or two-phase), it can last from 3 to 10 years without re-coating the floor.
- Alkyd. Such varnishes are ideal for "moving" floors, heated parquet floors, but dry for a long time. In addition, the technology of applying such varnishes has many nuances. The service life of such varnishes is 2-3 years.
- Waterless polyurethane varnishes. Such products have a high level of wear resistance, are resistant to chemicals and high humidity. Such varnish dries faster than water-soluble. To cover the floor with polyurethane varnish, the moisture content of the wood should be no more than 8%. Otherwise, the varnish may bubble. This protective coating lasts 2-3 years.
- Acid curing varnishes. Such varnishes have the highest performance characteristics: they guarantee a reliable coating that is not afraid of chemical and mechanical damage, moisture. Applying such a varnish is simple, it is not picky about tools. However, processing should take place in a ventilated area, and work should be done in a respiratory mask.
Pine Wood Floor Oil: Product Features
Oil is a good option to cover a wooden floor: it dries quickly and allows for local repairs (in order to re-treat the floor, you do not need to take out the furniture, carry out grinding). In addition, the oil is an absolutely safe, ecological product (this is important for allergy sufferers and families with children). But, judging by user reviews, little has lower performance than varnish.
It is strictly forbidden to cover a wooden floor that has been stained with oil: oil does not form an insulating film and any coloring object will leave a color imprint on the floor.
Thanks to the oil, you can improve the aesthetic and operational properties pine wood floor
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However, for some breeds, oil is the only way out. So, varnishing a pine board floor with varnish can lead to the fact that after a short operation the floor will crack: hard varnish does not mix well with soft wood and can easily damage the floorboard. Therefore, oil is an ideal choice for covering a soft pine floor.
When oiling a pine floor, it should be remembered that due to the resins contained in the wood, the impregnation will dry longer than on other softwoods.
Builders are advised to choose oil with wax in the composition to cover pine wood floors in the house. Such a product penetrates well into the pores of the tree, making it stronger. In addition, oil with wax well emphasizes the texture of wood: after application, the floor looks natural and attractive.
Wax to protect the floor: how to cover the wooden floor in the house
Wax is a traditional way to protect wood from moisture. Modern wood floor wax is made from beeswax, inorganic additives and oils. The main advantage of wax is its availability and environmental friendliness. In addition, wax is suitable for coating absolutely all types of wood. It can be both colored and colorless, glossy and matte. This makes it possible to restore the original color of the old wood flooring and emphasize the new floor.
To protect the floor, just apply a thin layer of wax
In order to wax a wooden floor, you need:
- Clear cover. Old varnish is removed with a solvent or scraper. You can apply the product on top of the oil.
- Sand and degrease the surface for better adhesion of wood and wax. You can additionally treat the surface with a primer on wood, and sand the layer after drying.
- Apply wax with a tissue swab in a circular motion, as if rubbing it into the floor.
- Wait for the layer to dry and, if necessary, cover the floor again.
- Polish the floor after the wax has dried with a felt cloth.
Wooden floors are always very popular due to the very high quality of the wood. Its advantages include affordable price, practicality and environmental friendliness. If you take care of and process responsibly, the wooden floors in the apartment will serve flawlessly for a very long time.
Materials for manufacturing
Materials for the apartment are presented in a fairly wide range. Different cost and manufacturing technologies make it possible to choose best option. There are the most common types of materials:
- wood mass;
- layered glued board;
- laminate.
Solid wood floor
For this floor boards made of solid wood are used. Stripes of growth rings are visible on them. , are called strips, over 57 mm - a floorboard.
The strongest breeds for the production of massive boards are North American maple, pecan, gikon, white oak. Slightly softer are black walnut, red oak, beech, white ash. Next comes the cherry. These wood species are suitable for luxurious durable floors. Pine is considered the softest. The floor in the pine apartment quickly deteriorates.
Laminated wood floor
The boards of these floors usually consist of 3-5 layers. They stick together at high temperature and pressure. The fibers of adjacent boards are mutually perpendicular. This enhances the strength of the boards with changes in temperature and humidity. These characteristics make it possible to lay laminated wood boards on concrete and in areas of high humidity.
Parquet
It also has a structure of several layers. Extreme solid wood. And the middle one consists of small boards, placed across the extreme layers. Apply on top protective layer. Thanks to this, the laying of parquet flooring is relatively easy and fast.
Laminate
The top layer of the laminate usually has an image of wood. Standard laminate has 4 layers: stabilizing, a layer of moisture-resistant fiberboard, decorative and waterproof melamine.
Its small thickness allows laying in those apartments where low ceiling, it is mounted directly on concrete. The upper layer of the laminate steadfastly bears the pressure of heels and is able to resist the claws of pets. For this reason its very anteroom. A damaged board can no longer be restored, but it will not be difficult to replace it.
Stages of making a wooden floor
Installing a wooden floor includes the following steps:
- material preparation;
- laying supports and log;
- flooring boards;
- finishing.
Preparation and processing
For manufacturing, it is better to use absolutely dry wood than to cover the floor in the apartment with fresh boards. In the latter case, after deform. Before starting the installation, bring the boards into the apartment so that they lie there for several days. This will allow the material to adapt to the temperature and humidity of the room.
For residential premises, it is advisable to choose boards that have a thickness of 2.8 - 3.5 cm. This is due to the small permeability of the apartment, in addition, such a thickness can withstand any furniture. However, it should be noted that this material is used only if the logs are installed at intervals of no more than 50 cm.
Before installing the floor on the logs in the apartment, you need to treat the wood with means to protect wood structures from insect damage, fire and rot. If you ignore the treatment with antiseptics, the floors can quickly become unusable after the start of the service.
Especially under the influence of putrefactive fungi, which infect cellulose and transform it into dust. Now various antiseptics are being sold, which are widely used in construction. To treat a wooden floor, it is better to use water-soluble antiseptics, for example, ammonium fluorosilicate, sodium fluoride or ammonium silicofluoride.
They are diluted in water, observing the proportions indicated in the instructions. Then they are applied with a brush or spray gun to wooden material. Experts advise using products that, along with an antiseptic effect, contribute to fire protection and increase the life of metal fasteners.
Laying log in the apartment
After processing the lag with antiseptics, they are laid on supporting platforms. In rooms, they are mounted across the fall of lighting from the window, installing logs with an interval of 40–80 cm. With this placement, the gaps between the floorboards will not stand out. In the corridors, the logs are mounted along the width of the passage, through the gap indicated above.
Logs are set according to the required floor height. Then lay the roofing material. It has some stickiness, so the components of the structure will hold on tighter. For the device of flat floors that will not creak, the logs are aligned in a horizontal plane and relative to each other.
For leveling, experienced builders advise using a building level. Thanks to him, it will be easier to determine the irregularities.
When setting the extreme logs, it is necessary to keep a gap near the wall of 1.5 - 2.5 cm. Then, guided by the aligned logs, the rest are laid. The logs are fixed on the supporting platforms with nails or self-tapping screws. After laying and fastening the lag, the flooring of the floorboards begins.
Wooden flooring
The flooring is carried out with the help of planed at the ends or tongue-and-groove boards. When choosing what to lay on the floor in an apartment, it is better to give preference to boards with tongues. They are a more expensive finishing material.
The grooved boards provide good thermal insulation and mostly already sold with antiseptic treatment. In addition, after laying the milled boards on the floor surface, there are no tops of nails or self-tapping screws. They are made to the correct size, so there is no need for a rigorous fit, as opposed to trimmed boards.
In apartments, boards are installed towards the window. This method makes the room much longer. In addition, the direction of laying depends on the intensity of the load. The main lines of movement must run along the laid boards, otherwise the coating will wear out quickly.
Before laying a wooden floor from a tongue-and-groove board, sawing is performed. Saw off the required length, keeping a gap of 2 cm near the outer walls, 1 cm near the inner ones.
The screw is screwed in first from the side of the groove, keeping a gap of 3 cm from the wall. The head of the screw will then hide under the baseboard. The next screw is screwed in from the side of the spike at a slight slope, and its head is sunk so that the groove of the other board enters to the end.
All subsequent boards are fastened with one self-tapping screw for each log, screwing them into the corner of the tenon of the grooved board. Before laying the floorboard, it is pulled close to the previous one laid. They are firmly installed on each log, maintaining a gap of 5 - 7 cm from the tongue. Then wedges are carefully driven in until the board fits compactly into place.
The last board is sawn along, taking into account the thermal compensation gap, and knocked out with wedges. The finishing board is fixed with one self-tapping screw, while maintaining a gap of 3 cm from the wall. Having completed, you need to start finishing and installing skirting boards.
Finishing
First, eliminate the shortcomings formed during the laying of the floor, that is, all kinds of holes and crevices. To eliminate them, putty is used that matches the color of the floor. Next comes sanding and sanding.
To sand the floor, it is better not to use a manual machine, because after coating the floor with varnish or other means, it leaves stains. It is advisable to carry out this procedure mechanically. grinder, and remove small irregularities with fine-grained sandpaper.
Staining gives the floor additional heat. On the boards, you can apply a transparent varnish or wood paint. After the paint, the color will be more juicy, but in the future it may be difficult to select a shade when repainting. In order to soften the intensity of the red-brown tint, the paint is slightly diluted with water.
As you can see, installing wooden floors in an apartment is not a very complicated procedure. The result is beautiful, reliable and practical wood floors that will make the apartment cozier and more comfortable. And thanks to the observance of technology, they will serve the owners for many years.
