- 1 Rough screed options in brick house
- 1.1 On the ground
- 1.2 Dry method
- 1.3 On adjustable lags
- 1.4 Dry screed
- 1.5 Wet screed
- 2 V wooden house
- 3 Videos
In this article we will tell you how to properly make a subfloor in a wooden and brick house, consider various methods, as well as show photo and video instructions.
The subfloor is a leveled base prepared for laying flooring. Therefore, for quality performance self repair, it is necessary to responsibly approach the device of the subfloor.
Options for a rough screed in a brick house
Options for a rough screed in a brick house
A rough screed in a brick house can be made using various technologies. The final choice will depend on which finish finishing material will be used. For example, if ceramic tiles are laid on the floor, then a concrete subfloor will need to be constructed. If you want a wooden floor, then a dry screed is constructed accordingly. You can read more about this or that type of rough screed below.
On the ground
On the ground
This screed method is considered economical as there is no need to install beams. In this case, it is necessary to strengthen the soil by making a sand cushion and insulating it.
A rough floor on the ground is only suitable if the ground is completely dry.
Sand tamping
So, before direct pouring, the soil is compacted. This is important to prevent shrinkage. After the pillow is made of sand. Slightly moistening the sand, using a vibrator, it must be compacted. As a result, it should decrease to 25%. For greater strength, granite can be poured in the next layer.
The next step is to perform waterproofing. It is necessary to prevent moisture from the soil from penetrating into the house. For example, you can use a polymer membrane or rolled bitumen. The material is overlapped up to 200 mm. Also, waterproofing should also go to the walls, to a height of 200 mm. After pouring the screed, all residues will need to be cut off.
Screed preparation
Filling the subfloor on the ground is carried out in a thin layer. It will serve as a platform for hydro and vapor barrier. For a rough screed, it is recommended to use class B concrete. Its filler is crushed stone with a diameter of up to 22 mm. The optimal thickness of the rough layer on the ground is 50 mm. Filling is carried out by level. When the screed is dry, a layer of vapor barrier is laid out on the floor, for example, a polymer-bitumen membrane, which contains fiberglass or polyester. The use of this material will significantly save on heating in the future. After that, insulation is performed with foam or other suitable insulation.
Dry way
Laying the subfloor on the logs. This method requires less time and effort than a concrete screed. In addition, water is not used during its implementation, respectively, the humidity remains unchanged and other repairs can be carried out in parallel. Logs are mounted on beams or on a concrete base.
Draft floor on logs
When laying the subfloor on the logs, you need to know some of the nuances:
- you will need to make horizontal markings using a stretched cord or a horizontal level throughout the entire course of work;
- it is worth making sure the quality of drying of the wood used;
- in order to avoid condensation, it is worth protecting the logs with the simplest waterproofing;
- in the living room, the logs should be located in increments of 35-40 cm, and their size varies in width from 8 to 10 cm, and in thickness from 2.5 to 6 cm;
- in the case of an uneven reinforced concrete pavement, the installation of the log is carried out on gaskets made of pre-glued plywood;
- at the base of the floor, holes are made for plastic dowels, into which logs will be attached with screws;
- if necessary, insulating material is used.
As a rule, the subfloor is laid from chipboard, the hardness of which is determined based on the finish coating.
For adjustable legs
Installing adjustable joists
It is becoming more and more popular and is mounted with strong and reliable plastic screws. A floor made in this way will never creak, and the work will not take much time.
Mounting process:
- Each lag is prepared separately: a hole is drilled in it and a screw is screwed into it;
- The logs are laid in place at a distance of 1 cm from the wall surface;
As an alternative adjustable floor on the logs they mount a floor made of chipboard, fixed on bushings with internal thread. Thus, the plywood sheet has legs, but at the same time it is able to withstand a huge load.
Dry screed
Dry screed
This method makes it possible to even out all defects in the base, and any temperature conditions are suitable for laying it.
Dry way Technological process:
Wet screed
Wet screed
This method is widely used because all materials are commercially available and relatively inexpensive.
They are installed in the following way:
A self-leveling floor can also be used, which simultaneously plays the role of a finishing and rough screed.
It is poured onto a pre-cleaned and primed base. After pouring the solution, the surface is leveled using a special spiked roller, which will rid the surface of all air bubbles.
The thickness of the layer of such a screed is no more than 3 mm, respectively, and its drying time is much less than that of a cement screed and is no more than 14 days.
In a wooden house
Draft floor wooden house
In a private house, it is necessary to provide good ventilation in the cellar by making holes there. In the presence of damp soil, a clay or concrete insulating layer is laid in the basement.
It is also worth waterproofing the foundation with roofing felt or other similar material.
All wooden floor construction elements must be treated twice with an antiseptic agent.
The laying of the subfloor in a wooden house is carried out using boards, on top of which a waterproofing agent is laid, a material for thermal and vapor insulation.
That's all the main options for installing a subfloor, which one is suitable, it's up to you, based on the finish flooring.
- how to paint the wooden floor in the house;
- how to insulate the floor on the balcony with expanded clay;
- how to make a polymer floor with your own hands.
The process of building a subfloor is presented in the following videos:
When building a new house or arranging an old one, an important part repair work is laying the subfloor in accordance with the rules. In the article we will consider the features of folding the base and the use of insulation and insulating materials.
Features of laying the subfloor along the logs
Most builders recommend equipping the subfloor as an additional insulation and a guarantee of strength and reliability. Features of laying are not difficult, and therefore everyone can do all the work on their own. One disadvantage of this floor is poor impact sound insulation, which is indicated by the strong fastening of the elements. Experts do not recommend doing such an arrangement in toilets, saunas, bathrooms or baths, because it is not suitable for boards high humidity premises.
The draft floor in a wooden house on logs is a bar that makes up the frame for laying and leveling. In this variation, boards are used that are not planed, of the second and third grade, preferably from coniferous or soft hardwood. In country houses, logs can be used as a log, which equips a more durable and robust design. At the beginning of work, all logs must be processed in relation to the alignment of the material. In fact, the part of the beams that will be fastened to the boards must be leveled and hewn, but it is almost impossible to achieve a high level.
The logs are laid in grooves, which are prepared at the beginning of construction, while the distance between the logs and the wall should be approximately 2 to 3 mm. This is due to the method of laying the subfloor in a wooden house, which will not creak during operation. Boards are treated with antiseptic agents or bitumen to avoid the penetration of pests, mold and fungus. The grooves are not the only fastener, and therefore must have other supporting elements such as brick pillars.
Log stacking: installation
1. The distance between the lags should be 60 cm, when using boards of greater width or logs of a significant diameter, the distance can increase to 1 meter.
2. After laying the logs, proceed to the next step. We use bars with a section of 50x50, which acts as a support, and fasten them with self-tapping screws on each side of the log.
3. It is recommended that the fastening procedure be carried out carefully, since the structure may be fragile and fall apart during work. To do this, we fasten all fasteners carefully and securely in order to avoid harm to ourselves.
Some homemade builders purchase 15x40 boards, and then divide them into several parts, as 50x40 bars are obtained, which is a good alternative to the previous process.
Fastening the bars and laying the subfloor: features of the work
The feature of attaching the bars to the logs should be calculated for additional space for the use of insulating materials. With an insulation thickness of 10 cm and a board thickness of 2.5 cm, the distance between the bars and logs should be 12.5 cm. Of course, all the data given may be different depending on the material you use.
The device of the subfloor in a wooden house is the next stage of work. There are some points that can complicate the installation process. For example, logs are uneven in their structure. building material with various knots, cavities, so finish the boards the same size and thickness will be difficult. In this case, you will have to carefully process each element.
In the presence of bars, the work process is greatly simplified, especially when filing and dividing the material into boards. They are attached to the bars that are attached to the logs from different sides. For fastening, you can use self-tapping screws, as well as nails.
Such a preparatory floor is rather unstable and cannot withstand a person's weight of more than 80 kg. With more weight, the boards can fail, which will have unpleasant consequences for workers. To avoid such incidents, it is recommended to put boards of greater thickness on the logs and then engage in the process of installing a subfloor in a wooden house.
Instructions for the construction of the crate for the insulation tab
After laying the boards, you can start work on floor insulation using different insulating materials. Hardware stores offer a wide range of products with different prices and features. Therefore, it is not difficult to choose a heater, for example, mineral materials are exhibited by manufacturers, as well as fiberglass or basalt, board styrenes and sprayed products.
If necessary, the insulation can be easily adjusted to the size of the repair area using construction knives. Some owners prefer to use environmental materials, which are expanded clay or slag. In wooden houses, insulation of the subfloor with natural materials will save the ecology of the room and create more comfort.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a crate for insulation:
1. We lay the logs in the grooves prepared for this. All elements must be fastened tightly. Leveling the floor is carried out using a level, which determines the entire plane of the base.
2. We lay the draft material on the logs following the previous recommendations.
3. Since the tree absorbs moisture, the surface must be covered with a special film or rubber.
4. The material is attached with a stapler to the surface. It is important to ensure that the laid raw material is not swollen or has depressions. Thus, waterproofing of the subfloor in a wooden house is carried out, which ensures that excess moisture does not get inside.
5. The next step is stuffing rails with a width of 5 cm, however, this parameter may vary depending on the type of insulation purchased. As in the facade lathing, the slats must be laid in the same direction horizontally or vertically. In a wooden house, such laying is especially important, since a schematic presentation of the boards will save the wood from decay.
6. Insulating materials are placed in the formed spaces. When using expanded clay, it is carefully poured into the openings, and a few centimeters are left from the surface. It is important that the sizes of the granules are different, because this will allow the base to be more compact. Styrenes or rock wool are also laid off to the very top, and this allows some material-free layer to be created, which will serve to ventilate the floor and retain heat.
7. After that, a vapor barrier layer is laid out on top of the bars, which is very important when arranging a warm floor.
In wooden houses, as a rule, a system of water heating of the floor is used, and therefore there is a possibility of creating condensate. To avoid this phenomenon, it is recommended to use a vapor barrier material, it perfectly absorbs all vapors, preventing them from damaging the base.
The last step is laying the finishing floor. For this, tongue-and-groove boards or special plywood are used, which is able to absorb moisture. This material is used for further finishing the floor with linoleum or laminate. All surfaces must be carefully treated grinder to avoid unevenness or inaccuracies in the floor.
Do-it-yourself method of dry screeding the subfloor in a wooden house
If there is a concrete floor in a wooden house, the owners want to convert it to special floors. Of course, there is a way to convert using a dry screed or according to the system self-ventilation floors. The first option is more affordable in construction. To equip the subfloor with your own hands, it is recommended to use the following materials and tools:
- expanded clay;
- polyethylene film;
- plywood GVL or chipboard;
- damper tape;
- PVA glue;
- electric jigsaw;
- self-tapping screws;
- screwdriver;
- marker, ruler and tape measure.
All work is carried out in stages in accordance with the requirements and recommendations below.
1. A polyethylene film is laid on the concrete floor, which is used as a waterproofing. The flooring on the wall should be about 10-15 cm, and between the joints of the material it is worth making an overlay of 20 cm. To ensure the reliability of the fastening of the elements, it is important to seal all the seams with adhesive tape.
2. The next element is gluing the damper tape around the entire perimeter. The height of the tape along the edges should be slightly more than the expanded claydite layer poured out as an insulating material.
3. Experts recommend using beacons when installing subfloors in a wooden house, the video of which can be viewed at the end of this article. They serve as a building level for pouring granules and their even arrangement on the film. With the use of bars, the height can be increased or decreased to create the plane you need.
4. Next, expanded clay is poured out and leveled, focusing on the installed beacons. It is not recommended to pour the insulation over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room at the same time. First, process one part and cover it with a sheet of plywood, and after the second, and so on. Such work is carried out in order to better move around the repair area, while the expanded clay layer must be at least 2 cm, otherwise the plywood will slide underfoot.
Laying materials on expanded clay
The process of laying sheets of plywood or GLV on expanded clay is a rather important stage, because when installed, you will immediately understand how reliably the work has been done. To do this, it is important to walk on them, which is why you will feel the subsidence of the material. For beginners, this situation may be bewildering, but the main check is the strong subsidence of the sheets, which should not be moved in the future.
It is important to remember that floor sheets have a large weight of about 15-17 kg, and the movement of such plates on the expanded clay layer can cause its deformation. You can connect the material using self-tapping screws, but they should be located closer to each other, the approximate distance between them should be 10-12 cm. In order for all parts of the sheets to be securely fastened, it is recommended to glue them using PVA. The application process should occur in waves, and it is important not to exaggerate with the thickness of the layer, because the parts are already connected with self-tapping screws.
As a result, all joints of plywood or GLV sheets must be puttied with special mixtures. After drying, the surface is ground and rubbed so that the entire base is even. To the question: how to make a subfloor in a wooden house using a dry screed in a bathroom or other room where there is high humidity, it is recommended to use waterproofing materials with different solutions with a cement component.
Wet subfloor screed
Screeding is a more popular method than laying on logs, as the materials purchased are not as expensive or readily available. Draft floor in a wooden house, the photo of which shows the sequence of work in this technology.
The step-by-step instruction includes the following steps:
1. The working surface is completely cleared of debris and foreign objects.
2. Insulating materials are being laid, which ensure the penetration of moisture into the premises and contribute to the preservation of heat.
3. With a step of two meters, beacons are attached, which act as a level and have the form of steel rails. Thus, you will ensure the evenness of the base horizontally.
5. The last step is the formation of a coating under the finishing floor using delicate materials. As a rule, mixtures are used that level the base and should have a thickness of 15 mm.
6. After drying, a rare solution is poured onto a cleaned and primed base and leveled with a roller to get rid of all bubbles. sub floor thickness wet screed should be up to 3 mm. The drying time of the surface is from several days to two weeks.
The draft floor is an important stage in home improvement, which ensures the preservation of heat in the room in any weather conditions. Do-it-yourself technology is a thorough work process that will require the builder to be attentive and follow the rules and steps of the instructive material.
The subfloor is one of the main components of the floor structure as a whole, on top of which, after carrying out the necessary additional previous measures, the fine finish chosen by the owner of the housing is laid. This design can have a different structure and be made of various materials.
Regardless of the design chosen, the subfloor will consist of several basic layers, information on which is given in the following table.
Table. The structure of the subfloor
| Layer | Description and functions |
|---|---|
| Underlayment | Provides uniform distribution of loads created by the structural elements arranged above. It is the bottom layer of the pie. Traditionally, it is a floor slab or a suitably prepared soil. |
| Leveling layer | The functions are clear from the name and boil down to leveling the bumps of the previous layer. If necessary, at the stage of arranging the leveling layer, the required slope of the surface is set. For the arrangement, sand and gravel are traditionally used, as well as a concrete screed. |
| Intermediate layer | It takes on the functions of a kind of layer that connects the lower and higher equipped layers of the subfloor. |
| insulating layer | Consists of moisture, heat and sound-proof materials. Features of the choice and arrangement of those are determined by the level of the future functional load on the structure. |
You will spend significantly less time and effort on arranging such a design than on pouring a screed. In addition, the installation of wooden poles does not require the use of water, which eliminates the likelihood of an increase in air humidity in the room being equipped and makes it possible to simultaneously engage in other planned finishing activities. The logs are directly laid on beams, a concrete base or other supports, which will be discussed later.
In this case, the functions of supports for flooring made of boards, plywood or OSB boards are taken over by the construction of longitudinal logs. The latter can be mounted on support posts or beams, as well as on a mortgage crown. If necessary, logs can even be attached to a concrete base. A specific option is selected in accordance with the features of the equipped building.
If the room has an impressive area, just fixing the lag with the ends to the beams will not be enough to ensure the required structural strength. In this case, support posts are mounted between the walls to maintain the lag. The distance between additional supports is determined mainly by the cross section of the mounted elements. In most cases, it is enough to make columns in increments of up to 0.8 m. Otherwise, be guided by the features of your situation.
Directly the columns are made of concrete or brick. At this point, also be guided by your preferences.
Operating procedure
The sequence of arranging the subfloor according to the logs is as follows:
- horizontal marking of the surface is performed. Having determined the required level of installation of the floor, laces, fishing line or dense thread are stretched across the place of future installation of the log - such marking will allow you to orient yourself in the process of arranging the log and place them on the same level. If you wish, you can not do this, but then you will have to check the horizontalness of the supports at each stage of work, spending more time correcting inaccuracies;
- the surface is covered with a waterproofing material, for example, with a polyethylene film 200 microns thick. Such a layer will protect wooden logs from moisture from concrete, soil and other sources;
- the optimal lag setting step is determined. To do this, you need to know the expected level of load on the future structure. In residential areas, it is recommended to adhere to a 35-45 cm step. If the base cannot boast of perfect evenness, the logs will have to be attached to pre-arranged linings. As such, pieces of plywood are most often used;
- holes are drilled in the base to accommodate dowels. Next, the dowels are driven in directly. In conclusion, it remains to simply fasten the logs to the base using self-tapping screws.
If necessary, the space between the lags is filled with insulation. From backfills, expanded clay is most often used, from "monolithic" materials - mineral wool insulation. When choosing a specific option, consider the climatic features of your region and focus on the available budget.
Flooring can be made from plywood, chipboard, OSB or wooden board. The task is extremely simple: the elements of the rough flooring are laid perpendicular to the logs and nailed to them.
Very effective option rapidly gaining popularity among domestic developers. To perform the work, plastic screw racks are used, which are characterized by high reliability and service life.
This technology allows you to quickly equip the subfloor, which will not creak in the future. At the same time, you do not have to waste time determining the required thickness of plywood linings and their arrangement - the verticality of the legs can be easily adjusted to the required level. After installation, the logs will not come into contact with the base, which is also an additional advantage.
The procedure is as follows:
- in the places of the planned installation of screw racks (mandatory along the edges and along the length of the product with an average step of 0.5-0.8 m), holes are prepared in the logs;
- the log is laid in the right place, starting from one of the walls. Between the wall and the support you need to leave a 1-centimeter gap;
- the support is attached to the base, starting from the extreme screw posts. Such a rack has a hollow structure. To fix it, it is enough for the performer to drill a hole in it with a depth of about 4.5 cm, drive a dowel into it, and then hammer in a nail or screw in a self-tapping screw.
At the end, the racks are twisted according to the level, and work continues in accordance with the scheme for arranging the subfloor on standard logs, discussed earlier.
Adjustable plywood subfloors
Quite efficient and interesting option subfloor is a plywood base, installed with the help of special bushings, equipped with internal threads. The bushings are inserted into pre-created holes in the plywood. For one sheet standard size 16 holes are usually sufficient. As a result, plywood will, as it were, stand on legs. At the same time, such a base is characterized by impressive resistance indicators - 1 m2 of the subfloor can withstand a load of about 5000 kg.
Dry screed allows you to level all existing defects in the base. At the same time, the installation of such a subfloor can be performed at any desired time of the year.
Draft floor prefabricated with a dry screed. 1. reinforced concrete floor slab; 2. wooden log; 3. flooring made of chipboard, OSB or plywood; 4. vapor barrier (PVC film); 5. expanded clay sand; 6. Knauf gypsum board or superfloor element. 7. elastic pad
The procedure is as follows:
- the base is covered with a layer of vapor barrier material, fixed with adhesive tape. Do vapor barrier with an overlap on the walls corresponding to the planned height of the future screed;
- between the guides, the composition selected for arranging a dry screed is poured. If the base has large drops, it makes sense to pre-set rack beacons on the surface according to the level - this will guarantee the correctness and accuracy of the work. In addition, the presence of such beacons will greatly simplify the further fastening of the flooring. The thickness of the backfill layer is selected taking into account the characteristics of a particular situation. On average, it is 30-50 mm;
- backfill is leveled with a long rule or rail;
- a subfloor flooring is laid on top of the backfill and fastened with self-tapping screws and glue. Drywall sheets, chipboard, plywood sheets with moisture-resistant properties, etc. are traditionally used for flooring.
Floors by reinforced concrete floors with a prefabricated screed made of gypsum-fiber sheets for residential and public buildings (Knauf)
Important nuances of the subfloor device in a wooden house
In wooden houses, the draft floor is most often arranged on the ground (otherwise, you can use suitable option from the above list). Job requirements are as follows:
- the room must be dry and well ventilated. For this, the foundation design is supplemented with air vents. If the basement has damp soil, a waterproofing layer must be installed on top of it. Traditionally, clay is used for this - it is enough to fill the surface with material and carefully compact it, sprinkling sand on top;
- the base must be waterproofed. When working with the foundation, roofing material is most often used. If you wish, you can use another material with a similar purpose.
Before starting work, treat all used wooden elements with a special antiseptic. Impregnation is recommended to be applied in a double layer, maintaining a 5-hour interval. Do not forget to wear personal protective equipment: gloves, a respirator and goggles.
Subfloor boards can be installed in one of the following ways:
- over pre-installed H-beams. In this case, the flooring elements are laid in the grooves of the supports;
- over T-beams. The boards are laid on the shoulders of the supports;
- on black bars. The easiest to use, and therefore the most popular option. It is enough to simply nail the bars to the edges of the beams and lay the boards on top of them.
If the work is carried out in a non-residential premises, if desired, you can replace the boards with a slab and save.
It remains only to lay layers of hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier material on top of the boards. After that, depending on the preferences of the owner, either the finishing flooring is arranged or the screed is poured.
The vapor barrier is attached over the lag
You have become familiar with the subfloor arrangement sequence in accordance with the most common and preferred methods. Choose the option that is most suitable for your case, and everything will definitely work out.
Successful work!
Video - Subfloor device
Before you start laying the final coating, you need to take care of the draft. In no case should this rule be neglected, because otherwise you risk all your repairs. Alteration of the flooring and the floors themselves will require even more effort, cost and time. In addition, such a complex event can damage the entire interior of an apartment or house. So experts recommend once to come to grips with the issue of the subfloor and forget about it for many years.
There are two main ways to create a subfloor, which are divided according to the method and materials used: wet and dry. For wet, concrete or concrete expanded clay is used, and for dry, installation along logs is used.
Do-it-yourself concrete subfloor
This option is especially popular in standard city apartments, but if desired, it can also be used to equip a private house. The question is only in the foundation.
First you need to create high-quality waterproofing. This can be done using a special high-strength film. If we are talking about repairs in an apartment on the second and higher floors, we recommend that you pay special attention to insulation. Your manipulations with the floor can cause a leak and affect the repair of the neighbors below. So be very careful when mounting the film. Along the perimeter of the apartment, it must be supplemented with foam flex with a thickness of 0.5 - 1 centimeter.
The next layer of the subfloor is responsible for the thermal insulation of the room. Previously, expanded polystyrene was mainly used as a material, but in Lately penofol is gaining popularity, consisting of two layers at once with a very good performance. The foil layer reflects heat and prevents it from leaving the room, and the polyethylene foam itself is responsible for thermal insulation. Whatever material you choose, it must also be covered with a layer of waterproofing film.
The next important stage is the pouring of the floor with concrete or concrete expanded clay. But it’s impossible to just pour the solution onto the future subfloor. The thing is that this layer will not be able to level itself. That is why special beacons are installed before pouring, which will become the basis for leveling the floor. All beacons must be level. Only in this case, you can get a beautiful and even subfloor as a result.
If you want to increase sound insulation, as well as thermal insulation, then pay attention to expanded clay concrete. This material has excellent properties and bypasses conventional concrete in many respects.
After mixing the solution and spreading it on the floor, carefully level it with the rule, placing the tool on the beacons. Remove excess solution, then leave the coating to dry completely. Your subfloor is ready.
Do-it-yourself wooden draft floor
To make a subfloor out of wood, you will need some sort of foundation. If the house already has concrete, then logs can also be laid on it. Just make sure that the concrete screed is level and has no height differences. Otherwise, your floor will turn out crooked and creak. Experts do not recommend the use of wooden blocks as a support for logs in the places of recesses. The problem is that over time the tree will shrink, and the logs will lose their stability. And your floors will sag and creak.
To avoid this, care must be taken preparatory stage. So, to begin with, the concrete base is leveled with a small layer of screed. The amount of solution is determined by the height difference in the room. After that, leave the resulting base until the solution dries completely.
The next item is the laying of a waterproofing film, all the joints of which must be glued with adhesive tape. On top of it, on the place where the logs will be laid, we lay a special soundproofing layer. Typically, polyethylene foam or cork material is used. Without this layer, the floors in your home will make extraneous sounds with every step.
Now it's time to tackle the lags. But for this you need a beam. Professionals recommend not saving on logs and using a high quality edged board. Installation will take you much less time and effort, and the rough floor with your own hands will turn out much more spectacular and faster. To install the subfloor, you will also need edged board 25 mm x 100 mm. It can be used not only for installing lags, but also for mounting roof battens and other general construction works.
The logs themselves are installed on a pre-prepared base so that the layer of soundproof lining is strictly under them. The height and slope of the lags must be checked with a level.
Now they need to be attached to the base of the floor with the help of corners so that the logs do not move anywhere and serve as the basis for the next layer.
As soon as all the logs are firmly fixed, insulation is laid between them. In no case should he go to the lags themselves, only occupy all the free space between them.
A floorboard or plywood is laid on top of the lags. This is what the subfloor will look like. Working with plywood is much easier, but it has a certain drawback - a relatively high price. A floorboard of the same quality will cost less, but installation will require more effort and more time.
The thickness of the plywood sheet must be at least 22 millimeters, because otherwise your subfloor will sag under the weight of a person. In addition, the distribution of furniture in an apartment or house can cause a change in the relief of the subfloor. Experts recommend using plywood of increased thickness if you plan to put heavy objects in the room: a wardrobe, a refrigerator, a sideboard with a lot of dishes, and so on.
Sheets of plywood should be stacked in a checkerboard pattern to prevent joints from being located in one line. Screw the plywood to the joists using self-tapping screws, remembering to set a distance of 2-3 centimeters from the wall for shrinkage and ventilation.
Behind the concept of "subfloor" are hidden not just poorly processed boards, but a real "pie" of various materials, which together form a solid foundation for the finished floor. By the way, the draft floor does not have to be wooden, it can be a concrete screed on the ground. The technology for arranging the subfloor includes a set of measures that provide hydro, heat and sound insulation of the base. In this article, we will consider how you can make a durable and reliable subfloor on which you can lay any finishing coating.
How to make a wooden draft floor on the ground
V country house arranging the floor is a responsible and time-consuming task. A wooden floor on the ground can be performed without restrictions. Even under the condition of temporary residence in the house, when the heating is not working, the wooden floor lasts for a long time without changes, since the underground is well ventilated through the vents in the foundation.
For wooden elements of the floor structure, it is necessary to select high-quality dried wood, with a moisture content of not more than 12%. This is important, as a wet tree can "lead" during operation. For the subfloor in the house, coniferous woods are chosen - spruce, pine, fir, larch. Resin-rich wood is less prone to decay and mold development.
Also, wood for the log and the subfloor must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.
Underground wooden floor on logs should be well ventilated. To do this, vents are made in the foundation, which are covered with a mesh with a cell of no more than 8 mm so that mice do not penetrate inside.
Base for wooden floor
The design of a wooden floor on the ground assumes that the floorboards will be laid on logs - longitudinal beams. Depending on the features of the house, logs can be laid on support beams, a mortgage crown or support posts.
If the room is large enough, fixing the logs only with the ends to the beams will not be enough, the structure will turn out to be fragile. Therefore, in the gaps between the walls, support posts are installed on which the logs will be laid. The step between the columns depends on the section of the lag. For example, if a beam of 150x150 mm is used as a log, then the distance between the support posts should be no more than 80 cm.
How to make support posts for logs:
- First, we make the markup where the lags will be located. We make notes on the support beams or the foundation of the house. Then we pull the cords through the entire underground. Across future lags, we stretch the cords at a distance of 80 cm or any other that is equal to the step between the posts. At the intersection of cords or ropes, support poles will be located.
- In places where we will make support pillars, we dig a hole 40 - 60 cm deep, with sides 40 cm.
- At the bottom of the pit, we compact the soil, pour a 10 cm layer of sand, and then 10 cm of crushed stone. Alternately, each layer is carefully tamped. This will be our bedding under the foundation of the column.
- We install a wooden formwork in the pit to fill the foundation for a concrete column. If the supporting posts are made of brick, then the height of the foundation should be such that it rises 5-10 cm above the ground. If the entire support column is cast from concrete, then the height of the formwork should be such that the logs laid on the column are horizontal.
- Inside the formwork we insert a reinforcing frame, connected from steel bars 6 - 8 mm in cross section.
- We pour concrete.
Important! If the entire column is poured from concrete, then it is necessary to control that the surface of the column is exactly horizontal and that all columns are at the same level.
- After the concrete has completely dried, we cover the surface of the column with roofing material or glass isol in 2-3 layers. Definitely no sprinkles. We coat the surface and joints with mastic.
If you want to make supporting posts out of brick, then the masonry must be fastened with cement mortar. For a column with a height of less than 25 cm, the masonry should be 1.5 bricks, for a higher column, a masonry of 2 bricks will be required.
After the concrete has dried, the formwork can be removed. For greater reliability, it is better to remove the fertile soil from the underground. It must be removed to a depth of 20 cm. Instead of soil, it is advisable to add 10 cm of gravel and 10 cm of sand and carefully compact it with a vibrating plate.
Before starting the arrangement of the base, it is necessary to treat the beams, logs and boards of the subfloor with an antiseptic. The logs can be laid immediately on the mortgage crown or foundation and on the support posts, or you can first install the support beams on the posts, and then the logs across the top. Either option is correct. Only laying the logs across the beams provides a more stable and durable structure if the distance between the logs is very small, 40 - 60 cm.
The cross section of the log must be selected taking into account the thickness thermal insulation material, which will fit between them. For example, if the thickness of the insulation is 150 mm, then it is necessary to take a bar with a height of 180 mm. Always leave a ventilation gap of 30 mm.
The step between the lags is selected taking into account the thickness of the boards of the future floor. For more precise instructions, see the table below.
Table 1. Step lag.
Consider laying the log on the support posts:
- We lay the logs on the mortgage crown (support beams, foundation) and support posts. We control their even location, horizontal. On the surface of the support posts under the logs, you can put a sound-absorbing material. But this is not necessary, since the roofing material or other waterproofing material that covers the surface of the column springs well and hides sounds.
- If, nevertheless, lag sagging is noticed somewhere, it is necessary to put wooden blocks on the support posts under the logs and fix them firmly. If somewhere the beam sticks out, then it can be cut off with a planer.
Important! Maximum tolerance in the evenness of the location, the lag is 1 mm per 1 m.
- We fix the logs to the support posts with the help of mounting corners. From the side of the wood, we fix it with self-tapping screws 50 mm long, and from the side of the concrete column, we twist the anchor.
- First we lay the so-called "lighthouse logs", which are located at a distance of 2 m from each other. Next, we will navigate through them.
- By analogy, we lay all the logs and check their even location.
After all the logs are fixed, you can proceed to the arrangement of thermal and waterproofing.
Thermal insulation and waterproofing of a wooden floor
Waterproofing and thermal insulation materials are laid between the joists. To fix them, you need to equip the base. This can be done in several ways.
Method 1. From the bottom of the log, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood can be nailed. Such a design will turn out to be as reliable as possible. To do this, you will have to work from the underground, which is not always possible.
Method 2. In the lower part of the lag, cranial bars 20 mm thick can be nailed, and rolled up from the boards from above. This work is more painstaking, since you will have to cut a lot of boards with a section of 15 mm and a length equal to the step between the lags.
You can choose the way you like more. The main thing is to get a fairly solid foundation.
- We lay a layer of waterproofing with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm, glue the joints with construction tape.
Important! Be sure to use a superdiffusion vapor-permeable membrane. We need the waterproofing material to let moisture out of the room, but not let it in from the underground. Therefore, ordinary plastic film cannot be used.
- On top of the film between the lags, we lay the heat-insulating material. We cut the rolled material with a width equal to the step between the lags plus 1 - 2 cm, so that the material enters the gap between the lags by surprise.
Important! As a heater for a wooden floor, you can use mineral wool in rolls, slabs, basalt wool, ecowool, sawdust can be blown. Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam cannot be used. These materials are completely vapor-tight, the wooden floor simply cannot breathe.
On top of the insulation, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap of 2 - 3 cm.
Subfloor laying
Now you can lay the subfloor in the house. There are several options for arranging rough flooring. As a material, you can use a floorboard with a thickness of 15 - 25 mm with minimal processing. You can also use a grooved floor board if finances allow. For rough floors, the price depends on the cost of the materials used. If you use a thick massive board, then there is no point in laying a subfloor from a floorboard. And you can lay sheets of plywood, and from above, lay the final floor covering.
Draft floor board for the floor:
- We start laying from the wall. We cut off the spike and apply the board to the wall, leaving a gap of 2 cm.
Important! Indentation from the walls is required, since wood is a plastic material, gaining moisture, expanding, and drying out, shrinking. The gap will provide an unhindered opportunity to expand and shrink the wood.
- We fix the board to the lags. From the side of the wall, we screw the screws directly into the board, then this place will be hidden by the plinth.
- From the side of the spike, we screw the screws into the spike at an angle of 45 degrees.
- We move the next board close to the first. We insert into the groove of the first board.
- We screw a self-tapping screw into the groove of the second board, fixing it to the log.
- All subsequent boards are laid by analogy.
Important! If the boards are the same length as the room, then they can be laid exactly parallel to each other. If the boards are shorter than the room, then they must be laid with an offset - apart.
The last board is fixed so that you can hide the caps of the screws under the plinth. On this draft floor is ready. The main thing is to tightly fit the boards to each other. From above you can lay a floor covering.
How to make a wooden subfloor on a concrete base
In apartments with concrete floors, you can also make a wooden floor. The logs are laid on a concrete base, but for this it must be even. A height difference of several centimeters is unacceptable. Therefore, the option when wooden bars are placed under the bending logs is not suitable. Over time, the linings will dry out and deform, which can easily fly out and the floor will begin to creak.
Substrate preparation: hydro and sound insulation
Before laying the log on the concrete floor, it is necessary to level the base. To do this, fill in the cement-sand screed. Further work can be continued only after the concrete has completely dried, i.e. a month later.
To the surface concrete screed laying waterproofing film with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm, glue the joints with adhesive tape.
We put soundproof linings under the logs. To do this, you can use cork materials or foamed polyethylene with a thickness of 1 - 4 mm. The lining under the logs is needed in order to extinguish impact noise.
Laying lag on concrete
It is advisable to use a beam with a length equal to the length of the room. If this is not possible, then you can take the beam shorter and connect it to the end. In this case, the connection points should be spaced apart.
- We lay the logs on the prepared base.
- We check the horizontal position of the lag.
- We fix the logs to the floor with the help of corners. Do not forget that the corners themselves are attached to concrete floor anchors.
- After laying and fixing all the logs, we lay the insulation between the logs in the same way as in the case of the floor on the ground.
Do not forget to leave a ventilation gap of 2 - 3 cm.
Subfloor installation
On top of the lag we lay a draft floor. As mentioned above, it can be plywood, or it can be a floorboard.
Consider the option of arranging a plywood subfloor:
- We take a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 22 mm.
- We lay a sheet of plywood on the logs and fasten them with self-tapping screws in increments of 15 cm.
- We arrange sheets of plywood in a checkerboard pattern. To do this, some of them will have to be cut.
- It is impossible for the joints of plywood sheets to be in one line.
Do not forget that there should be a gap of 2 - 3 cm between the wall and the subfloor. The following floor coverings can be laid on top of the plywood base: laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles, vinyl tiles, parquet, parquet board, massive board.
The device of rough floors made of concrete on the ground
It is not always possible to pour a concrete floor in a private house on the ground. There are certain restrictions. Firstly, ground water on the site should be low enough - at the level of 4 - 5 m. Secondly, the soil must be stable, not mobile, otherwise the concrete floor may collapse. Thirdly, people must constantly live in the house, or it would even be more correct to say that it must be heated during the cold season. If all conditions are met, you can safely pour a concrete slab over the ground.
Earthworks and foundation preparation
First of all, it is necessary to outline the "zero" mark - the level of the future floor. It is necessary to navigate along the bottom of the doorway. All walls must be marked so that in the future it will be clear for how long to pour concrete.
- The floor on the ground is a multi-layer structure with a thickness of 30 - 35 cm. To equip it, we remove the top layer of soil until the height from the zero mark to the bottom of the pit is 30 - 35 cm.
Important! If the soil level is below 30 - 35 cm from the floor level, then it is necessary to level the soil surface, compact it, add sand to the required level and also carefully compact it.
- We tamp the foundation of the pit.
- We pour a 10 cm layer of crushed stone and carefully tamp. If the thickness of the backfill is difficult to control, then we hammer several pegs into the ground with the desired mark. After leveling and tamping, the pegs can be removed.
- Pour the 10th layer of sand, pour water and also ram.
- From above we pour a small layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 40 - 50 mm.
- Sprinkle with sand, forming a thin layer, carefully tamp.
Important! If suddenly sharp edges of crushed stone fractions are observed on the surface of the base, it is necessary to unfold the pebble and put it so that there are no sharp corners anywhere.
At all stages of backfilling, it is necessary to monitor the horizontal position.
Waterproofing, thermal insulation, reinforcement
- We lay a waterproofing material on the surface of the base - a polyethylene film with a density of 200 microns, roofing felt or glass isol. The main thing is that the material is not damaged on the edges of the rubble.
- We start the waterproofing material on the walls to a mark 2 cm above the floor level. We lay with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm and glue with adhesive tape.
- At this stage, you can lay a durable thermal insulation material. For example, extruded polystyrene foam or basalt wool in slabs, perlite or expanded clay are suitable. It is also possible to place the heat-insulating layer above, on top of the concrete base.
- The concrete floor must be reinforced. For this we use metal mesh with 10 cm cells.
- We install the reinforcing mesh on stands 2-3 cm high so that the mesh is completely inside the concrete.
Installation of formwork and guides
To maintain the horizontal level of the floor, it is necessary to lay the so-called "beacons" or guides. For these purposes, you can use round and square steel pipes, wooden bars. We arrange them in increments of no more than 1 m. We fix them with a thick cement mortar. Also, their height can be controlled by pouring more solution under the guides.
Between the guides we install the formwork for pouring the floor. This is not necessary, but it makes the task of pouring the concrete floor by hand much easier.
We process the guides and formwork with oil or mining so that after pouring they can be easily removed.
Rough floor screed - pouring concrete
It is necessary to pour the concrete floor in the house in one or two passes. If you take long breaks, then the foundation will turn out to be fragile.
- We start pouring concrete from the corner opposite the front door.
- Fill several cards at once, then level with a shovel.
- We compact the concrete with a deep vibrator.
- Align the surface using the rule. Set the rule on the guides and pull it towards you. Excess solution is distributed to cards that do not have enough solution.
- We take out the cards and fill the voids with concrete.
- When the entire floor is poured with concrete using this technology, it must be covered with plastic wrap and allowed to dry for a month.
For better drying of the concrete subfloor, its surface must be moistened with water.
After the concrete has completely dried, you can perform a final floor screed and lay the floor covering.
Doing the subfloor with your own hands is a very responsible task, because a solid foundation is much more important than a finishing coating. For example, in an old house, you should not lay new flooring on top of the old subfloor unless it has been overhauled.
