The dismantling of the roof is carried out according to a special technology. It is impossible to remove the old coating from the roof, regardless of the rules, because this is fraught with the destruction of the rest of the structure.
If, for your own reasons, you remove the truss system, then all the wooden elements can fall right on your feet and seriously injure the person who is dismantling.
In order not to damage the building and objects next to it, you need to prepare for work on the roof.
Solving problems preceding dismantling
Climb onto the roof to remove attached sheets from it roofing material, occurs in strictly defined cases.
Most often, the owners of houses resort to the dismantling of slate or any other roof covering during the repair of the entire building or only the roof itself.
In this situation, assuming that no areas of the room under the roof will be restored, it is supposed to disassemble the roof in parts, and then lay new sheets of material.
Sometimes the need to remove the coating from the roof arises due to the upcoming demolition of the building.
Of course, in most cases, the house is reduced to a pile of rubble by planting an explosive device or working with an excavator.
However, it happens that an old building cannot be demolished due to the increased strength of its walls or due to other reasons, and the house needs to be dismantled in a different, neat way.
In other words, metal coating such a structure will have to be dismantled in stages, periodically removing construction debris.
Before climbing up the house and starting to expose the waterproofing layer and truss system, you need to remove it from the roof electric wires, a TV antenna and pipes that remove smoke.
The roof will need to be cleaned of all unnecessary items, including billboards. After that, if the roof has slopes, temporary supports should be placed in the attic.
When you need to dismantle the roof in the attic, the first step is to remove the window frames.
Sheets of roofing material are not removed with bare hands. You need to climb onto the roof, armed with a set of tools: an ax, a crowbar, a saw, a hammer, a screwdriver and a nail puller.
The best way to get to the top of the building is by the high stairs. By pitched roof it will be convenient and safe to move if a hook is nailed to the top of the device with steps.
In addition, for the trouble-free removal of sheets of material from the roof, it is necessary to arm yourself with a rope.
If it was not possible to rent special equipment that facilitates the dismantling of the roof, then it is recommended to transport the material removed from the roof down the block system.
The mechanism consists of several parts:
- support, which can be used as a thick board, fixed on the roof in such a way that its edge extends beyond the roof by 1 m;
- blocks that are fixed to the center and edge of the board;
- a rope drawn through the blocks and tied to the board with the end;
- a mobile platform, i.e. a flat board with dimensions of 50×50 cm, connected to a system for stacking stripped sheets.
Features of removing roofing material
The sequence of work to remove the old coating from the roof depends on what material is to be removed.
For example, the dismantling of slate is carried out according to the following algorithm: first, the ridge element is removed, and then the nail puller is taken and the fasteners are pulled out. hardware, thereby alternately removing sheets of wave material from the roof.
By the way, pulling out nails will be easier if the person doing this operation has an assistant. He needs to be in the attic and knock the ends of the metal fasteners up.
If the roof was closed with slate using screws, then it will be necessary to dismantle the roof, armed with a screwdriver and a screwdriver.
In order to remove the coating from the roof, the elements of which are connected to each other by means of folds, it is necessary to proceed as follows: first of all, remove the canvas near the pipes and other objects that rise above the roof material, after which you can remove dormer windows, and then - ordinary sheets, grooves and overhangs.
The restrictive grid, which is sometimes found on rebate roofs, must be removed after the materials have been dismantled.
Gutters and all other fixtures left outside the grate are supposed to be cleaned while in the attic.
If some sheets of roofing have not become unusable, and after being removed from the roof they will still be used, then it is recommended to open the folds with a hammer, and the bends along the edges of the damaged sections of the material should be unclenched with a chisel and crowbar.
It is possible to dismantle a soft roof only in the season when the weather is not hot outside.
The fact is that at temperatures above 20 0, the roofing material and another canvas made with the addition of bitumen heats up, which changes its properties.
Usually, under the influence of sunlight, soft material can become ductile, which makes it difficult to remove the roofing.
To make it easier to dismantle soft roof, you should use a roofing axe. The device is created from a conventional tool for chopping wood, welded to a strong pipe with a diameter of 4 cm.
made homemade unit it is necessary to cut the bitumen-based coating into squares. Next, pieces of soft material must be torn off from the concrete base using the same ax.
After removing the coating from the roof, you can begin to remove the waterproofing coating and insulation.
Films and membranes are supposed to be removed with the utmost care, since they are allowed to re-cover the crate of the building.
In other cases, you need to use a spatula, while it is not necessary to exercise caution. The supporting structure of the roof is dismantled, standing in the attic and using a crowbar with an ax.
So, how exactly to disassemble the roof depends on the materials from which the roof is made. But regardless of the type of roofing, a large set of tools will be required to carry out dismantling work.
If you find everything you need and follow the instructions, then the slate, rafters and other roof elements can be removed without problems.
Removing a roof is not as easy as it seems at first glance. This requires special training.
Dismantling the roof is a rather complicated task that requires special training.
Why do you need to remove the roof covering?
First you need to figure out why you need to dismantle the roof.
- During the overhaul of the house or roof. If the repair of the premises under the roof will not be carried out, the roof is dismantled in parts, after which a new roof is installed.
- Often the demolition of a building is done by blowing it up or using an excavator, however, there are cases in which these methods are not suitable due to the density of the building or other factors. In such cases, it is necessary to disassemble the building carefully. The roof covering must be dismantled in stages, in the process to take out construction debris.
To dismantle the coating, you can contact companies that specialize in this, or you can do the process yourself.
Necessary actions for the dismantling of soft roofing
It is recommended to dismantle the soft roof during the cool period of time, when the temperature outside does not exceed 20 degrees Celsius. The reason is that the soft roof consists of bitumen and, when heated, can change its properties, become more ductile than brittle. This can make the process much more difficult.
Laminated rafters are disassembled according to the principle of removing free-lying elements, having previously removed metal fasteners: brackets, dowels, twists, etc.
There are several ways to remove the soft cover:
- The use of a wall chaser can speed up and simplify the dismantling of the roof in case the roof covering exceeds 3 cm.
- Using a roofing ax (an ordinary ax that is welded to a thick pipe with a diameter of 3-4 cm), you can chop the roofing layer into squares.
After the roofing has been squared using one of the selected methods, it must be separated from the cement screed or slabs with an ax. All this will need to be thrown into a construction container. It is worth saying that the process is not as easy as it might seem at first glance, and its complexity will depend on the number of layers of the old roof.
One way or another, it is important to note that the quality of a new roofing depends entirely on how the preparatory work and demolished the old roof.
Required steps to remove a pitched roof
The dismantling of the roof should begin with preparatory work:
- Mandatory fastening with temporary racks and girders of the attic covering is necessary.
- All communication line devices (television or radio antennas) must be dismantled.
- All plumbing fixtures and electrical wiring must be dismantled.
- Perform disassembly of chimneys.
- Remove all advertisements.
- Disassembly of the roof should begin with the removal of the coating near the pipes, walls and other parts.
- To dismantle the metal tile, you need to remove the ridge of the lining of the wind and valley elements. The sheets of metal tiles themselves are sorted in order from top to bottom. After that it is necessary to dismantle drainage system and lower valley.
- For layered rafters, you need to remove all metal parts, then remove free-lying elements.
- To disassemble the rafters, formwork and battens, it is worth using a chain portable electric saw, an ax and a crowbar. If there is, you need to leave every 5-6 purlins to avoid the collapse of the roof trusses. After that, you need to remove the remaining bars of the crate, tie the truss and load it with a crane to the construction site or immediately completely onto road transport.
- All materials that have been disassembled must be put into bags at the end and stored in order to be able to transport it to the warehouse.
The necessary composition for the job
The dismantling of the roof should be carried out by a team of two roofers, and dismantling truss system- a composition of two or three carpenters and one rigger. All workers must be secured to the roof with safety belts.
Any homeowner wants to see their home warm, dry and comfortable. Much depends on the condition of the roof. If something is wrong with the roof, then problems one after another will begin to make themselves felt. So questions related to her current, and even overhaul one way or another, can not be avoided.
Many are wondering what is better, permanent repair or replacement of the roof. From a budget point of view, it is undoubtedly preferable to carefully patch it. However, as practice shows, frequent minor repairs do not particularly contribute to improving the state of the structure: it continues to wear out, and cracks only multiply. A more rational option would be complete dismantling.
On a note
In fairness, it should be noted that the need to update arises not only for a problematic roof. A new roof is mounted, for example, during the reconstruction or redevelopment of a house.
When do you need a new roof?
A rather convincing argument for replacing the roof of a garage or residential building will be a wet spot that spreads across the ceiling during heavy rain, not to mention the water dripping from its surface.
Annual roof inspection roof structure will reveal the scale repair work and develop, if necessary, a strategy for replacing the roof with your own hands:
- remove the coating completely or use it as a substrate under the steel sheet.
- test the condition of the supporting structure, including the crate;
- check the conformity of the diagonal measurements, otherwise, due to violations in the rafter system, different overhangs will be obtained.
The renovations involve three possible options versions:
1 If we are talking only about cracks in the roofing, and the damage did not affect the truss system, then it will be enough to change the coating to a new one, for example, replace it with. 2 If rot or fungus on the crate is found under the roof covering, then the frame will also need to be repaired. 3 And, finally, in case of serious damage to the rafter system, thermal insulation, holes in the flooring, we are dealing with the most difficult option. Here, a complete reconstruction is necessary, since, unlike the previous case, damage to the heat-insulating layer is sufficient to justify the replacement of the roof insulation. A significant scale of work leads to an increase in cost. The price for 1m 2 will be formed from the total amount of all expenses for dismantling, purchasing and installing new material.Dismantling
Many people prefer to change slate to corrugated board. This choice has its advantages. profiled sheets:
- they are light in weight, therefore they do not require reinforcement of the truss system;
- resistant to mechanical and natural influences;
- incomparably more durable than slate;
- they can be laid independently and reliably protect the roof from leakage;
- can be considered a budget cover, with the exception of models covered with pural.
Mounting diagram
- If possible, carefully dismantle the slate, trying not to damage the rafters.
- They inspect the roof for the replacement or repair of some sections of the supporting structure: the rotten ones are replaced, the wood is impregnated.
- satisfied vapor and waterproofing: the film is overlapped without much tension.
- As thermal insulation, polystyrene foam boards are most often used either.
- The corrugated board is mounted with an overlap in one or two waves, starting from the end part. On the flat roof sealant is applied to the places of overlaps.
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For fastening the corrugated board, only self-tapping screws equipped with rubber gaskets are used (with the exception of the valley). This is necessary to fully protect the structure from moisture.
This question arises when old structures fall into disrepair, or the roof needs to be updated for aesthetic reasons. When repairing fairly old houses, in all likelihood, it will be necessary to dismantle the roofing.
- When inspecting the frame, special attention should be paid to the condition of the rafters. The roof is quite maintainable - any part is replaceable. In this case, additional strength clamps are used. For this, boards are suitable, with which you can temporarily connect existing beams that cannot be dismantled. After that, you can safely remove low-quality rafters, since the frame will definitely not collapse.
- Mauerlat requires no less attention. If signs of decay are found, the damaged parts must be cut out and new ones inserted and securely fixed with plate plates or use tie bolts. In principle, the Mauerlat can be replaced with a new one completely, carefully dismantling in parts with replacement with new ones around the perimeter.
- Having repaired the roof frame, the coating is re-laid.
At first glance, dismantling slate roof, roofs made of corrugated board or metal tiles can be attributed to the type of work that does not require any professional skills, especially if the old roof will no longer be used for its intended purpose. However, as practice shows, this is not the case. The quality of the installation of a new roof depends entirely on the professional level of the roof dismantling. Failure to comply with the technology during dismantling can be fraught with the most undesirable consequences, starting with damage to the truss system due to improper work, ending with the partial destruction of the roof. This only means that such a task should be performed only by professionals who know and take into account a variety of nuances that are inaccessible to a simple layman, and who own the appropriate equipment.
Prices for dismantling the roof
| Name | Price |
| Roofing dismantling | from 100 rubles/m2 |
| Dismantling the insulation | 100 rubles/m2 |
| Dismantling of the lathing (internal, external) and counter lathing | 100 rubles/m2 |
| Removing the roof truss | 250 rubles/m2 |
| Dismantling of a continuous roof covering (plywood or other sheeting) | 150 rubles/m2 |
| Removal of skylights | from 850 rubles/m2 |
| Removal of skylights | 1500 rub. PC. |
| Dismantling the drainage system | 350 rubles / riser |
| Dismantling of metal drips | 100 rub./m. P. |
| Dismantling of a soft roof in 2 layers | 150 rubles/m2 |
Dismantling of a soft roof. Stages of work
Any process consists, as a rule, of several stages, the price varies from the number and complexity of which. The dismantling of a soft roof was no exception. We list them below. So, this process consists of:
- inspection of the object and assessment of its condition,
- roofing removal,
- dismantling of insulating material and protective membranes,
- trim removal,
- Troubleshooting and replacement of rafters and support bars.
The price also includes the removal of the resulting construction debris.
When replacing a roof covering with a different type of covering, all stages must be carried out. With partial repairs, only some of them can be performed. Performing partial dismantling of the roof, prices will be formed according to:
- amount of work to be done
- the complexity of the process,
- quality and urgency of services.
To perform the fastest, safest and highest quality dismantling of roofing material, contact the specialists of MosStroyAlliance. We will provide favorable conditions for cooperation with the highest quality of all work.
A few years ago I purchased garden plot on which stood a barn and a house. The latter was built in the early 70s of the last century, as they say, "from what was", and according to the technology - "like a neighbor".
The house with an attic was a frame structure. Outside, it was upholstered with clapboard, inside - with unedged boards, and on top of it - with plywood. At one time, the house probably looked pretty good, but at the time of purchase it was “overgrown” with problems. And the main one was that due to deformation column foundation The house leaned heavily to one side.
My attempts to rectify the situation were unsuccessful - the house continued to collapse. After weighing all the pros and cons, I decided to take it apart. And no-opportunities - neatly. At the same time, he proceeded from the fact that during the construction of a new house, “used” material can certainly be useful for creating formwork, subfloor, scaffolding, battens, etc.
The sequence of work was determined from the most general considerations - it is more logical to start from the top and gradually move down. So the house will not collapse ahead of time, and besides, the first floor at the initial stage can be used as a warehouse.
In order not to waste time in the spring, when it runs quickly, I started work in the winter.
A few words about nails. While it was winter, I left the torn boards of the inner lining in the house on the first floor. Immediately he pulled out the nails with a nail puller, sorted them and put them in different buckets. The times when people could build without a single nail are over, and during my work I accumulated about 4 buckets of nails, which I planned to reuse. The savings on this turned out to be small (with an average price for 1 kg of nails, about 100 rubles comes out - about 4 thousand). Nevertheless, even such trifles can significantly reduce overall costs.
Of course, you don't have to go to extremes, trying. Of course, you don't have to go to extremes, trying to pull out every nail. Everything needs a reasonable approach.
For example, if boards are supposed to be used for finishing in the future, then it is better to pull out all the nails so that they do not damage the tool during their processing. And if the board will be used for auxiliary purposes, say for formwork, then some nails can be bent.
Storage of material.
Why did I start with nails? The point here is not only in savings, but also in the convenience of subsequent storage. Boards with protruding nails take up about 3 times more space. And when you have only 6 acres with an old garden and buildings on them, you quickly begin to understand that the area needs to be saved.
The time spent on pulling out a nail and bending it is almost the same.
The storage of material must be taken carefully so that you do not have to drag boards and logs from place to place several times. It is necessary to think over in advance all further actions during construction.
For example, if earthworks are planned, then it is better to take the boards away from the future pit so that they do not interfere with work. In addition, for stacks it is better to choose a place higher. Then they will not end up in a puddle after rain or from melted snow in the spring. It is also advisable to put an opaque material under them so that grass does not grow under them. For this purpose, I used roofing felt, which I removed from the walls and roof.
In addition, I used an old greenhouse as a temporary storage. Many glasses in it were beaten out, therefore, so that rain would not drip on the boards, I also covered it with roofing material.
Sawdust, glass wool and safety equipment. After dismantling interior decoration Attic I went down to the first floor. I want to note once again that at the first stage I did not touch the racks in order to prevent collapse, but only tore off the skin.
Sawdust and small shavings interspersed with lime were used as insulation in the ceiling of the first floor. Lime additive - very old and reliable way get rid of mice. In any case, I did not find any traces of these annoying rodents in the sawdust. But in glass wool they lived freely ..
The sawdust turned out to be dry, so I also decided to save them “just in case” - I poured them into plastic bags and put them under the roof. In the future, they may be useful for their intended purpose, and if not, they will be used as fertilizer.
Glass wool was laid under the cladding of the first floor. This created an additional problem, as it was not safe to work with, and after so many years it crumbled in the hands, which created unnecessary difficulties.
In order not to itch later, I took precautions. First, he put on clothes made of thick fabric and fastened with all the buttons. He put on a special helmet on his head, and on his hands - two pairs of gloves (first - fabric, and on top - rubber). I must say that often the glass wool pierced this protection, and then I suffered, trying to pull out brittle splinters.
Secondly, I put on goggles and a respirator.
And, thirdly, in order to make the glass wool less dusty during disassembly, I preliminarily sprayed it with water, and immediately placed the extracted pieces of insulation in plastic bags with a volume of 120 liters. This, in my opinion, is the optimal size in terms of weight and volume. However, if the glass wool is very wet, then it is better to use 60 l bags, making several holes from below with a nail to drain water.
Here it is appropriate to say a few more words about safety. The work of dismantling old buildings is often not without injury.
For example, when dismantling the roof, I, standing on the bottom of the stairs, tried to tear off the cornice board of the pediment. But I did not calculate my strength, it broke away and fell on my head, unprotected even by a cap. It's good that the rusty nail only tore the skin on the head, and did not stick into the head. But I still had to put stitches in the emergency room. Therefore, I strongly advise everyone who is preparing for such work - observe safety precautions!
Demolition and dismantling of the roof of an old house.
After inner lining and the insulation were removed, I climbed onto the roof. Spring was already in the yard, the snow had melted, and the roof was not slippery.
First, I removed the slate. After removing the nails, he dropped it, trying, if possible, to direct the sheets down vertically so that they stick into the ground, and do not fall flat. In the latter case, they would certainly have broken. I did not plan to use slate in the future, but proceeded from the fact that the more carefully you remove it, the less fragments will be, which will also have to be collected later. And I didn’t take any special measures to save the sheets, since this would significantly slow down the work.
After the slate, I removed the metal strips for attaching the roofing material, and then the roofing material itself.
Assistants.
When the roof was removed, it was inconvenient to continue dismantling the roof alone, and for this work I had to hire assistants. Considering that I did everything else myself, I spent 7 times less money on the demolition of the house than if I had hired a team of “destroyers” for this. Of course, I lost a lot in time, but I won in money and in the ability to reuse materials. Hired workers would never stand on ceremony with my boards, because they need to get the job done as quickly as possible.
Dismantling of walls and floors of the basement.
After the outer wall cladding was removed, what remained was a frame consisting of old beams and logs. The greatest difficulty was presented by logs that were used as floor beams - they were the heaviest. After pulling the logs out of the nests, I rolled them along the guides to the edge of the frame and dropped them down. It's easier to roll than to wear. When the upper logs were removed, I filled up the wall frames in different directions.
The lower floor, which had stood for almost 2 years in the water, was damp and heavy, but its disassembly no longer presented any difficulties for me. With the long logs that served as the bottom strapping, a neighbor helped me. (Befriend your neighbors and help each other!)
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