Homemade lathe for metal. Industrial unit at no extra cost: do-it-yourself homemade metal lathe How to assemble a lathe

Homemade lathe in most cases successfully replaces expensive factory fixtures. Especially when there is a desire to process metal with minimal equipment costs.

It's not hard to make a small benchtop lathe your own. with my own hands, or you can pick up a more complicated drawing - for a garage. The cost of parts and materials is affordable, some spare parts are likely to be found on the farm.

Main elements and principle of operation

lathe device

One of the most important characteristics of a metal lathe is the ability to withstand the severe loads that occur during metal processing. At the same time, accuracy and speed are required.

A simple design for metal processing at home contains:

  • base (frame);
  • two racks (they are grandmas);
  • electric motor;
  • movement transmission mechanism;
  • fixture for fixing the workpiece;
  • stop for the cutter (caliper).

The main mechanisms are located in the headstock. but the motor homemade design may be outside. With the help of the transmission mechanism, the movement from the engine is transmitted to the spindle - a hollow shaft, to which the workpiece is attached using a chuck. The tailstock serves to support the free end of the part.

Machining precision is achieved not only by skillful hands:

  • foundation stability;
  • lack of "beating" of the spindle;
  • reliable fastening of the workpiece in the chuck.

Made in accordance with all the rules, the mini-machine is easy to operate and compact. It is suitable for processing small metal parts of various shapes, blanks made of wood, plastic.

Selection of parts

When the drawings of all components and fixtures are developed, you can begin to select parts.

strong metal frame

The purpose of the frame is a rigid fixation of the leading and driven centers. For a desktop mini-machine, you can do it yourself from a wooden block. This design will withstand work with small metal parts. A stationary frame for a garage or workshop must be durable, it is welded from a corner, metal strips or a channel. It is recommended to use factory-made guides. In the absence of them, they are assembled from rolled metal with their own hands.

The dimensions of the bed determine the dimensions of the parts to be processed. So, the length of the workpiece depends on the distance between the faceplate (chuck) and the center of the tailstock.

Electric motor and transmission

Most suitable for homemade machine- asynchronous motor. Its feature is a constant rotation speed. To process metal blanks, the following power is required:

  • for work with small workpieces made of soft metals - 0.5 - 1 kW;
  • for working with large parts and steels - 1.5 - 2 kW.

A motor from a high power electric drill is quite suitable.

The use of collector motors whose rotation speed depends on the load should be avoided. Accelerating at idle, it can lead to ejection of the workpiece from the chuck and injury to the hands. If there is no other engine, the collector must be supplemented with a gearbox that controls the speed under any load.

The transmission can be used belt or gear. It is easier to assemble a belt with your own hands, it is quite reliable. The belt levels the force directed along the shaft and destroying the bearings of the electric motor.

You can also use a gearbox that will allow you to work at several speeds. And you can increase the engine speed with the help of an additional pulley.

An alternative to the transmission mechanism is to mount the tool chuck directly on the motor shaft. Such a device is often used for desktop mini-machines assembled from a drill or manual engraver. When planning it, you need to choose an engine with a sufficiently long shaft! To partially compensate for the load along the shaft, a stop is installed between its end and the rear surface of the housing, for example, in the form of a ball.

Master and slave centers

mini metal turning machine

In order for the part to rotate smoothly and not vibrate, the centers must be located strictly on the same axis. The workpiece is fixed with a faceplate or cam chuck.

The driven center is located on the rear support and can rotate or be stationary. A threaded hole is made in the support and a bolt is screwed in, which is sharpened under a cone. The bolt should have a stroke of about 3 cm in order to firmly press the inserted workpiece. The rear support (headstock) moves along the base along the guide. But in the simplest mini-machines, the end of the workpiece is supported by a retractable sharpened threaded pin, the amplitude of which is small.

Machine assembly process

metal frame combined with thick plywood support

We take an old working drill as the basis for the design.

  1. We weld a base 70 cm long from corner No. 40: there are two long corners along the edges, two between them - 40 cm long - this is the length working area. We leave a gap between the short corners - the guide.
  2. The headstock in this case is a stand in which you need to conveniently and securely fix the drill. Let's make it from metal corner and plates. Cut in the vertical round hole under the drill chuck. The cartridge must fit snugly into the hole.
  3. We weld the headstock to the base on the corner.
  4. The base for the tailstock is cut from the No. 100 corner. In the center of the horizontal part of the corner, we drill a hole for a bolt that runs along the guide and holds the headstock. From below, the bolt is welded to a rectangular pressure plate, from above it is adjusted with a nut.

The caliper or tool post will move along the center guide. For the manufacture of a caliper, you will need a cast-iron blank with a diameter of 80 mm, from which 2 parallelepipeds are cut out with a grinder. We cut holes in them for bushings with a diameter of 22 mm. We will make the rods from the axle shafts of the passenger car found in the garage.

The base and side parts are cut out of a metal plate. We weld a bronze nut between the rods, pressed into a steel sleeve, where we screw in a threaded pin passing through a hole in one of the sidewalls. Here we weld homemade pen or lamb. We drill a vertical hole with a thread in the movable part with our own hands. On a long bolt we weld a plate - a tool holder. We pass the bolt through a square plate mounted on bearings and screw it into the moving part of the caliper. Along the perimeter of the plate, we will make clamps for the tool holder from bolts.

Common disadvantages of homemade lathes

  • Low power of the electric motor, which does not allow to achieve sufficient performance of the mini-machine;
  • small spindle diameter, limiting the size of the workpiece;
  • lack of automation, so all settings are displayed by hand;
  • limiting the maximum dimensions of blanks;
  • vibrations due to fragile frame.

The first video clearly shows the design of the caliper, the second video shows another model of a do-it-yourself homemade lathe:

Tips for making a homemade metal lathe

Make a lathe with your own hands cutting machine metal is pretty easy. If you build this device yourself, you can save a lot of money. The finished product is not at all cheap, while the quality of the parts is not always satisfactory.

Homemade metal lathe

Diagram of a homemade lathe

A lathe cutting machine, which can be made very simply by hand, should consist of the following structural elements:

Homemade lathe (top view)

  • grandmas - front and rear;
  • frame;
  • electric drive;
  • slave and leading centers;
  • stop for the cutting part.

The unit itself is placed on the frame. In this case, when the device is manufactured independently, its role is played by the frame. The tailstock moves along this base. The other - the front, should be motionless. The headstock is designed to install elements for the rotation of the necessary equipment.

The center, which is the leading one, is connected to the engine through a special transmission device, which is installed on the bed or, in our case, on the frame. With the help of the leading center, the rotational movement is transmitted to the workpiece, which is processed on this unit.

If you decide to make this device with your own hands, then use wooden blocks, metal corners or other profiles that you can find in your garage to make the bed. In this case, the main condition is not the material itself, but how stable the frame can be created with it. In this case, all centers must be fixed in a certain position during its operation.

Headstock homemade lathe

To make a lathe with your own hands, you can use an electric motor of any type and power. When choosing this element, you need to consider only the type of material that will be processed. If it will be necessary to work with metal blanks, then it is best to use a powerful electric drive.

The rotation of the elements of a home-made unit is possible using a belt, chain or friction drive. In this case, it is best to use the first option, which is considered the most effective and reliable. Some models do not have a transmission mechanism. Then the leading center is installed directly on the electric motor.

Features of the structural elements of a homemade lathe

Making a cutting machine for metal processing with your own hands is very simple if you follow a few rules. First of all, place the driven and leading centers on the same axis. This will help to avoid the generation of vibration when machining metal parts. If you decide to make a do-it-yourself device with just one leading center, then additionally install a cam chuck or faceplate. These elements are intended for fastening parts during their processing.

Also, do not install collector-type electric motors on home-made units.

This type of drive, without sufficient load, makes too strong rotational movements. In this case, the likelihood that the workpiece will simply fly out of the vise increases.

This can not only damage it, but also create a very dangerous situation, especially if the work is done in a confined space.

The best solution for homemade devices for metal processing is an asynchronous motor. Under any load, it does not change the speed, which makes it very reliable. When using an asynchronous motor, it is possible to process parts with a maximum thickness of 10 cm and a width of no more than 70 cm.

On the tailstock there is a driven center, which can be made both stationary and dynamic.

It can be easily made with your own hands using a regular bolt. Then you just need to sharpen its end and give it a conical shape.

Before installing the bolt, it must be treated with machine oil. Only then can this element be inserted into internal thread tailstock.

How to make a lathe using an electric motor?

A desktop metal cutting machine can be easily made using the following materials and tools:

The technology of work on the construction of a mini-unit for processing blanks made of soft metals or wood consists of the following steps:


  • From wooden board cut out some square pieces. Connect them with PVA glue so that the resulting column has the same height as the casing on the opposite side.
  • Attach this cube to the base with a few self-tapping screws.
  • Take a sheet of paper, twist it into a tube and wind it around the engine pulley. After that, turn it on and draw a circle with a pencil that forms on the opposite side of the cube.
  • Using a drill, drill a hole in the wood blank in the middle of the circle that formed on the cube.
  • A self-tapping screw must be inserted into the resulting hole, which will act as a holder for the workpiece when the cutting desktop lathe is working.
  • We use a conventional electric drill

    The cutting unit can be easily built using a conventional electric drill, which can be found in any home. In this case, a spring fixation with a plate must be attached to the metal rod. After that, install one such element in the drill, and the other in the tailstock. It can be made from any material, such as wood.

    Using a drill as a lathe drive

    Such an installation has the following mechanism of operation - a metal blank rotates between the plates, which allows you to perform the necessary manipulations with it.

    A homemade metal lathe is a profitable alternative to expensive mechanisms, which sometimes do not even fully perform their intended functions.

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    We assemble a homemade metal lathe with our own hands

    Why do you need a homemade lathe?

    There is not a single real owner who would not want to get a compact, reliable, and most importantly inexpensive machine for metal processing in his arsenal. Such equipment allows you to perform many, both simple and complex operations associated with the manufacture of metal parts, starting with boring holes and ending with blanks made of metal of unusual shapes.

    Of course, if the financial situation allows, then you can not bother with the manufacture of a lathe with your own hands. However, factory equipment has an impressive size. and placing it in a garage or a small utility room will be problematic. Therefore, the only right decision is to manufacture metalworking equipment with your own hands according to your size, which will meet all the requirements.

    Self-assembled processing machine metal products, which will be manufactured, taking into account all the features of its use, will have simple controls, do not take up much useful space in the room and be distinguished by simple and at the same time reliable operation. On such a lathe for metal, you can easily process any workpieces of small sizes made of steel.

    The design and principle of operation of the lathe

    Before you start assembling metalworking equipment with your own hands, it is important to familiarize yourself with the main components and mechanisms of a metal lathe. In the design of the simplest equipment, it is necessary includes the following elements:

    The components of a homemade lathe are placed on the bed. In the case of a do-it-yourself unit, this is a metal frame. The tailstock moves along the frame base. In turn, the purpose of the headstock is to accommodate the base mechanism that rotates the equipment. Moreover, this element has a fixed structure. A transmission mechanism is installed on the bed, connecting the leading center with an electric motor. Through this central device, the rotational movement is transmitted to the metal workpiece to be processed.

    The frame of a do-it-yourself metal lathe, in most cases made from wooden blocks. In addition to wood, you can use metal corners or steel profiles. The material from which the frame will be made does not really matter, the main thing is that the centers of the equipment are securely and motionlessly fastened to the base.

    Almost any electric motor can be installed on home-made metalworking equipment, even with insignificant power indicators. However, it is important to understand that a low-power motor may not be able to cope with the rotation of bulky metal blanks at the right speed, which will lead to a decrease in the quality of the work being done. Low-power motors are best used if you plan to machine wood parts on a lathe.

    The message of rotational movement from the electric motor to the main unit of the machine occurs through a friction, belt or chain type of transmission. At the same time, the belt drive is considered the most popular, since has a low cost with high reliability. I would like to note that some home craftsmen assemble equipment in which the transmission mechanism is not provided, and the working tool is fixed directly on the motor shaft.

    Features of homemade machines

    In order to prevent increased vibration of the metal workpiece being processed, it is important to ensure that the leading and driven center structure is placed on the same axis. If you plan to assemble the machine with your own hands only with a leading center, then it is necessary to foresee the installation of a special cam mechanism - a chuck or a faceplate.

    On the advice of experienced specialists, the installation of collector electric motors on home-made metal processing units is not recommended. Such devices may spontaneous increase in speed in the absence of a work load, which, in turn, leads to the departure of the workpiece from the fasteners and possible injury to the person working at the machine. A part flying out at high speed can cause a lot of damage in the confined space of a home workshop.

    If, for some reason, the installation of a collector-type electric motor is inevitable, then it is imperative to install a special reduction gear. Thanks to this mechanism, it is possible to completely prevent uncontrolled acceleration of the equipment in the absence of a load on the workpiece.

    The most practical, convenient and inexpensive for a do-it-yourself metal lathe is an asynchronous electric motor. Such a motor has high stability during load without speed change. which allows to ensure high quality of processed metal blanks, the width of which does not exceed 100 mm. In general, the design and power parameters of the electric motor must be selected in such a way that the part to be processed receives the necessary force during rotation.

    The mechanism of the driven center, located on the tailstock, can have both a fixed and a rotating design. For its manufacture, a standard bolt is used, which is sharpened in a conical shape on the threaded section of the product. The prepared part is lubricated engine oil and is mounted in an internal thread in advance, cut out in the tailstock. The bolt should have a free play of about 25–30 mm. Due to the rotation of the bolt, the workpiece is pressed between the central mechanisms.

    Assembly procedure for turning equipment

    The easiest to make with your own hands is considered to be a beam-type metalworking machine. The use of such home-made equipment allows you to grind metal and wood products, as well as, with a slight improvement, sharpen knives and other cutting tools. Such equipment is very useful if a car or other moving vehicle is to be repaired. At the same time, the assembly procedure itself provides some simple work .

    A self-made design of a metal lathe, assembled by oneself, can be used not only for its intended purpose, but also for other domestic needs. It is possible on one of the moving parts connected to the shaft of the electric motor, install grinding wheel and sharpen various tools on it or perform grinding or polishing surfaces.

    Selection of power equipment

    The frame of home-made equipment, if possible, should be mounted on a metal base by securely fastening it to the frame. After that, you need to install all the individual components and mechanisms of the turning unit, which are not so many. At the next stage, they proceed to work with the power unit of the equipment. First of all, you need to choose an electric motor of appropriate parameters. Since we are talking about the processing of metal - a fairly durable material, then the motor must be powerful:

    • when processing small metal parts, a motor with a power of 0.5 to 1 kW is sufficient;
    • for turning larger workpieces, it is better to use a 1.5-2 kW motor.

    For homemade metalworking equipment, an engine from an old sewing machine or from any other unnecessary household appliance. The choice depends on what is found in the home workshop or will cost inexpensively when buying in a store. A hollow steel shaft is connected to the electric motor, or as it is called, the spindle head. For this purpose, a belt or any available transmission is used. The shaft is connected to a pulley mounted on a key. A pulley will be needed to place the working part of the tool on it.

    Connection of power mechanisms performed either on their own, or turn to specialists for help. At the same time, an experienced electrician will do everything quickly and efficiently, and the owner of the machine will have complete confidence in the safety of using electrical parts of the lathe. After the assembly work is completed, the equipment is ready for use. Also, if necessary, a person can expand the functionality of the equipment .

    Having made a machine for processing metal parts with your own hands, a person will receive an indispensable assistant in a home workshop. And given the versatility of such equipment, everyone will be able to hone their skills in plumbing. A self-made machine will meet all the requirements for it and will not take up much space in a house or garage.

    Do-it-yourself homemade lathe for metal with your own hands: drawings, photos, videos

    Many home craftsmen are thinking about how to make a metal lathe on their own. Such a desire is explained by the fact that with the help of such a device, which will cost quite inexpensively, it is possible to effectively perform a large list of turning operations, giving metal blanks the required dimensions and shape. It would seem that it is much easier to purchase a simple desktop machine and use it in your workshop, but given the considerable cost of such equipment, it makes sense to spend time making it yourself.

    Homemade lathe - it's quite real

    Using a lathe

    The lathe, which was one of the first to appear in the line of equipment for processing parts from different materials, including metal, allows you to make products of various shapes and sizes. With the help of such a unit, it is possible to turn the outer and inner surfaces of the workpiece, drill holes and bore them to the required size, cut external or internal threads, perform knurling in order to give the surface of the product the desired relief.

    A serial metal lathe is a large-sized device that is not so easy to manage, and its cost is very difficult to call affordable. It is not easy to use such a unit as a desktop equipment, so it makes sense to make a lathe for your home workshop yourself. Using such a mini-machine, you can quickly turn workpieces made not only from metal, but also from plastic and wood.

    On such equipment, parts with a circular cross section are processed: axles, tool handles, wheels, structural elements of furniture and products for any other purpose. In such devices, the workpiece is located in a horizontal plane, while it is given rotation, and the excess material is removed by a cutter, securely fixed in the machine support.

    Grooving a brake disc on a homemade lathe

    Despite the simplicity of its design, such a unit requires a clear coordination of the movements of all working bodies so that the processing is carried out with the utmost accuracy and best quality execution.

    An example of a homemade lathe with drawings

    Let us consider in more detail one of the working options of the assembled on their own lathe, the rather high quality of which rightfully deserves the closest attention. The author of this homemade product did not even stint on the drawings, according to which this device was successfully manufactured.

    Of course, not everyone needs such a thorough approach to business, often simpler structures are built for home needs, but as a donor for good ideas this machine fits perfectly.

    DIY lathe

    Appearance of the machine Main components Caliper, tool holder and chuck
    Side view of the tailstock Bottom view of the tailstock
    Guide shafts Caliper design Engine driven
    Drawing #1 Drawing #2 Drawing #3

    Structural knots

    Any, including home-made, lathe consists of the following structural elements: a supporting frame - a bed, two centers - a leading and a driven one, two headstocks - front and rear, a spindle, a caliper, a drive unit - an electric motor.

    The design of a small-sized lathe about metal

    All elements of the device are placed on the bed; it is the main bearing element of the lathe. The headstock is a fixed structural element on which the rotating spindle of the unit is located. In front of the frame there is a transmission mechanism of the machine, with the help of which its rotating elements are connected to the electric motor.

    It is thanks to this transmission mechanism that the workpiece receives rotation. The tailstock, unlike the front, can move parallel to the direction of processing, with its help the free end of the workpiece is fixed.

    A simple diagram of the nodes of a home-made woodworking machine will tell you a simple option for making a bed, front and rear headstock

    A homemade metal lathe can be equipped with any electric motor, even if it is not too high power, but such an engine can overheat when processing large-sized workpieces, which will lead to its stop and, possibly, failure.

    Usually, electric motors are installed on a homemade lathe, the power of which is in the range of 800–1500 watts.

    Even if such an electric motor has a small number of revolutions, the problem is solved by choosing the appropriate transmission mechanism. To transmit torque from such electric motors, belt drives are usually used; friction or chain mechanisms are very rarely used.

    Mini-lathes that home workshops are equipped with may not even have such a transmission mechanism in their design: the rotating chuck of the unit is fixed directly on the motor shaft.

    Direct drive machine

    There is one important rule: both centers of the machine, leading and driven, must be located strictly on the same axis, which will avoid vibration of the workpiece during its processing. In addition, it is necessary to ensure reliable fixation of the part, which is especially important for models of the frontal type: with one leading center. The issue of such fixation is solved with the help of a cam chuck or a faceplate.

    In fact, a do-it-yourself lathe can also be made with a wooden frame, but, as a rule, metal profiles are used for these purposes. The high rigidity of the frame of the lathe is necessary so that the accuracy of the location of the leading and driven center is not affected by mechanical loads, and its tailstock and support with the tool move freely along the axis of the unit.

    The use of channels in the manufacture of the frame and headstock of the machine

    When assembling a lathe for metal, it is important to ensure that all its elements are securely fixed, always taking into account the loads to which they will be subjected during operation. What dimensions your mini-machine will have, and what structural elements it will consist of, will be influenced by the purpose of the equipment, as well as the size and shape of the workpieces that are planned to be processed on it. The power of the electric motor that you will need to use as a drive will also depend on these parameters, as well as on the planned load on the unit.

    Version of the bed, headstock and drive

    To equip lathes for metal, it is not recommended to choose collector motors that differ in one characteristic feature. The number of revolutions of the shaft of such electric motors, as well as the centrifugal force that the workpiece develops, increase sharply with a decrease in load, which can lead to the part simply flying out of the chuck and can seriously injure the operator.

    Such electric motors can be used if you plan to process medium-sized and light parts on your mini-machine. But even in this case, the lathe must be equipped with a gearbox that will prevent the uncontrolled increase in centrifugal force.

    Asynchronous three-phase electric motor connected to a 220 Volt network through a capacitor

    It has already been proven by practice and design calculations that for turning units on which metal blanks up to 70 cm long and up to 10 cm in diameter will be processed, it is best to use asynchronous electric motors power from 800 watts. Engines of this type are characterized by the stability of the rotational speed in the presence of a load, and when it is reduced, it does not increase uncontrollably.

    If you are going to make a mini-machine for turning metal work on your own, then you should definitely take into account the fact that not only transverse, but also longitudinal loads will affect its cartridge. Such loads, if not provided for by a belt drive, can cause destruction of the motor bearings, which are not designed for them.

    If it is not possible to use a belt drive, and the leading center of the device is directly connected to the motor shaft, then a number of measures can be taken to protect its bearings from destruction. Such a measure can be a stop that limits the longitudinal movement of the motor shaft, which can be used as a ball installed between the motor housing and the rear end of its shaft.

    In the tailstock of the lathe, its driven center is located, which can be stationary or freely rotate. Most simple design has a fixed center: it is easy to make it on the basis of a conventional bolt, sharpening and grinding under the cone that part of it that will be in contact with the workpiece. By screwing in or unscrewing such a bolt moving through a threaded hole in the tailstock, it will be possible to adjust the distance between the centers of the equipment, thereby ensuring a secure fixation of the workpiece. Such fixation is also provided by moving the tailstock itself.

    In order for the workpiece to rotate freely in such a fixed center, the pointed part of the bolt that comes into contact with it will need to be lubricated with machine oil before starting work.

    Homemade tailstock for a desktop lathe

    Today it is not difficult to find drawings and photos of lathes, according to which you can independently manufacture such equipment. Moreover, it is easy to find various videos demonstrating the process of their manufacture. It can be a mini-CNC machine or a very simple device, which, nevertheless, will give you the opportunity to quickly and with minimal labor to produce metal products of various configurations.

    Racks of the simplest metal lathe can be made of wood. They will need to be securely fastened to the frame of the unit using bolted connections. The frame itself, if possible, is best made from metal corners or a channel, which will provide it with high reliability, but if they are not at hand, you can also pick up thick wooden bars.

    The video below shows the process self-manufacturing support for a lathe.

    As a node on such a machine, on which the cutting tool will be fixed and moved, a handguard made of two wooden planks connected at an angle of 90 degrees will act. On the surface of the board where the tool will be placed, it is necessary to fix a sheet of metal that will protect the wood from deformation and ensure the exact location of the cutter in relation to the workpiece. In the supporting surface of a horizontal plank moving along the frame of the unit, it is necessary to make a slot, due to which such movement will be sufficiently accurate.

    To make the headstock and tailstock of your homemade lathe, you will need to select metal cylinders of the appropriate size, which are placed in bearing assemblies installed in wooden racks. The rotation made by the workpiece will be transmitted to it through the front center, connected by a belt drive to the electric motor. Thus, the workpiece, securely fixed between the front and rear center, is processed using a cutter installed in the tool rest of the equipment.

    Another option for a homemade machine (click to enlarge)

    General view Headstock Caliper and chuck

    There should be no problems with the search for an electric motor, which should be equipped with a mini lathe. Even if you could not find an engine of the required power (500–1000 W for processing small parts, 1500–2000 W for large-sized workpieces), then a previously used unit previously installed on a household sewing machine is quite suitable. In addition, as a drive for compact lathes, it is permissible to use electric drills or grinding machines.

    As a result of such simple manipulations, you will have at your disposal a machine capable of performing the most common metal turning operations. If desired, the unit can be upgraded, expanding its functionality. Of course, it is difficult to make a CNC machine from such a device, but it is quite possible to perform boring, drilling, grinding, threading and a number of other technological operations on metal on it.

    Do-it-yourself lathe - the unit is no worse than the factory one!

    In order to make a lathe with your own hands, a home craftsman will need to figure out the mechanism of its action, prepare some materials and have the patience necessary to assemble a home-made structure that will allow you to process a variety of metal products.

    1. Why do you need a homemade lathe?
    2. The device and mechanism of action of a homemade machine
    3. Some design features"home" lathes
    4. The process of self-manufacturing a unit for turning work
    5. Tips for choosing power equipment for the machine

    1 Why do I need a homemade lathe?

    No man will refuse to have a small lathe in his house or apartment. Indeed, with its help, you can perform many operations related to the processing of metal parts, ranging from knurling a corrugated surface and boring holes, and ending with threading and giving the outer surfaces of parts of given shapes.

    Of course, you can try to purchase a factory turning unit. But not everyone can afford such a purchase, and it is almost impossible to place a production machine in an ordinary home due to the fact that metal turning equipment takes up a lot of space. An excellent alternative to acquiring a bulky and inconvenient factory machine is to make a simple and yet functional lathe with your own hands.

    Homemade metal lathe. assembled in accordance with all the rules, it will have simple control, take up a minimum of space, and be distinguished by ease of operation. At the same time, you can easily process various metal and steel products of small geometric dimensions on it, becoming a real home craftsman.

    2 The device and mechanism of action of a homemade machine

    Before you start creating a turning unit for domestic use, it would be useful to learn about its main components and the mechanism of operation of such equipment. The elementary machine consists of the following parts:

    • two grandmas;
    • frame;
    • two centers: one of them is the slave, the other is the leader;
    • stop for working cutting tool;
    • electric drive.

    The mechanisms of the machine are installed on the frame (in a home-made unit, its role is played by the frame). The tailstock moves along this base of the unit. The headstock is necessary to accommodate the basic rotation unit of the equipment; it is fixed. A transmission device is also mounted in the frame, connecting the leading center with the electric motor. Through this center, the required rotation is transmitted to the workpiece.

    The bed of the "home" machine is usually made of wooden beam, you can also use corners or profiles made of steel (metal). It doesn't matter what kind of frame material you choose, as long as it firmly fixes the installation centers.

    It is allowed to install almost any electric motor on a home-made turning unit, even a very small one in power, but it should be understood that it specifications may not be enough for high-quality processing of parts, especially when it comes to a metalworking machine. The low power of the electric motor will not allow working with metal, but even a motor with a power of about two hundred watts can handle wooden blanks.

    Rotation in homemade machines can be communicated by means of a chain, friction or belt drive. The last of these is used most often, since it is characterized by maximum reliability. In addition, there are also such designs of units made independently, in which a transmission device is not provided at all. In them, the leading center or chuck for attaching a working tool is placed directly on the motor shaft. A video of the operation of such a unit can be easily found on the Internet.

    3 Some design features of "home" lathes

    To prevent vibration of the workpieces, the driving and driven center should be mounted on the same axis. If you plan to manufacture a machine with only one center (with a leading one), the design of such equipment will need to provide for the possibility of fastening the product with a cam chuck or faceplate.

    Experts do not advise installing collector-type electric motors on home-made turning units. Their revolutions in the absence of working loads can increase without the operator's command, which leads to the departure of the part from the fastening elements. It is clear that such a “flying” blank can do a lot of trouble in a limited space - in an apartment or in a private garage.

    If you still plan to install a collector motor, take care to equip it with a special gearbox. This mechanism eliminates the risk of uncontrolled acceleration of parts processed on the machine.

    The optimal type of drive for a homemade unit is a conventional asynchronous motor. It is characterized by high stability under loads (constant speed) and provides high-quality processing of parts up to 70 wide and up to 10 centimeters in cross section. In general, the type and power of the electric motor must be selected so that the product subjected to turning receives sufficient rotational force.

    The driven center, which, as noted, is located on the tailstock, can be stationary or rotating. It is made from a standard bolt - you just need to sharpen the end of its threaded section under the cone. The bolt is treated with machine oil and inserted into the thread (internal) cut in the tailstock. Its course should be approximately 2.5-3 centimeters. The rotation of the bolt makes it possible to press the workpiece between the two centers of the unit.

    4 The process of self-manufacturing a unit for turning

    Next, we will talk about how to make a homemade bow-type lathe, and also provide a video of this simple process. With the help of such an installation, you can grind metal products and other materials, sharpen knives and other cutting attachments. The unit, among other things, will become your best assistant in cases where you yourself are repairing your car.

    To begin with, we need to cut out two strong wood racks and attach bolts to them with nuts. The bed of a home-made machine will be attached to them, which can also be made of wood (if possible, it is better to use some sort of high-quality metal for the frame - a steel corner or a channel).

    Be sure to make a special handpiece, which increases the level of stability of the cutter for turning metal parts. A similar handguard is a construction of two boards glued at right angles (or connected with small screws). Moreover, a strip of thin metal is attached to the bottom board, which is necessary to protect the working tool from changing its shape during rotation. A slot is cut out in a plank standing horizontally, which makes it possible to control the movements of the handpiece.

    You shouldn’t have any problems with the manufacture of the tailstock and headstock - the essence is clear, and if there are any difficulties, you can watch a video on the Internet, where this process is shown and described in great detail. Headstock cartridges, as a rule, are made from finished cylinders, suitable in cross section to the general design of the machine, or by welding sheet iron.

    Ramu homemade installation it is advisable to install it on a duralumin base, securely fasten the frame to it, mount all the machine components (there are not so many of them). After that, we take up the power unit of our equipment. First of all, we choose a suitable electric motor. For processing metal products, it must be powerful enough.

    Many men in the process of repairing equipment are engaged in the manufacture of the necessary metal blanks in their own workshop. Turning work requires precision and skill. It is possible to give the necessary shape and parameters to metal products using a special machine, additional equipment and tools. Therefore, craftsmen successfully make a multifunctional metal lathe with their own hands.

    How to use a metal lathe

    A modern industrial machine has a number of characteristics that allow you to perform many different operations. Such a device is equipped with a numerical programming device and has a complex structure. Do-it-yourself lathe does not need so many functions. It is enough to make a universal mechanical installation that will be conveniently placed on a table in the garage.

    The main work performed on home-made milling equipment:

    • processing of the inner surface, reaming of the workpiece;
    • turning a cone, groove;
    • thread cutting;
    • shaped turning;
    • trimming ledges and sharp edges;
    • cylinder turning.

    The metal lathe is used for processing nuts, bushings, couplings, pulleys, shafts and gears. From such parts, blanks are obtained that allow you to create or improve various mechanisms. Depending on the equipment used, it is fashionable to process not only metal products, but also wooden or plastic blanks on the unit.

    A do-it-yourself metal lathe is a complete equipment with a power unit, it is heavy and creates vibration. Before making such a device, it is necessary to carefully consider the design of all parts.

    Mini machine for home use has 4 main elements:

    1. Frame.
    2. Caliper and tool holder.
    3. Front and rear headstock.

    Frame

    This knot is designed to fix all equipment in a rigid position. Being the basis, the frame must be strong and not warp. The machine can be placed on a table or made a floor version by increasing the length of the support. Such a cast frame is made of channels and metal corners. The frame elements are connected by welding or bolted.

    caliper

    Such an element holds the cutting device and is able to move in a given direction and plane for efficient processing blanks. If it is necessary to create complex and non-standard surfaces, special attention should be paid to fixing this assembly. For smooth movement in the horizontal direction, a screw mechanism in the apron is used. The caliper remains movable, but if necessary, it can be fixed. The cutters in the tool holder must be tightly clamped, backlashes increase the risk of injury during operation.

    Headstock and tailstock

    A gearbox is located in the headstock, which provides a different speed of rotation of the spindle, adjustment of the amount of torque. In addition, the headstock consists of a turning head and a caliper feeder. The headstock provides fastening of the workpiece.

    The tailstock at the back of the mechanism provides a strong fastening of the workpiece or tool in the right direction. Such a unit has the function of threading on a metal lathe.

    Do-it-yourself step-by-step assembly of turning equipment

    A homemade lathe consists of parts that can be found in a garage or workshop. Before proceeding with the processing and assembly of the apparatus, it is necessary to carefully consider the design and characteristics of the unit, its location in the workshop.

    Necessary materials

    As materials, you can use improvised means:

    • welded frame (replaces cast frame);
    • power unit - any motor with an electric drive with a power of 800-1500 W from household appliances ( a good option– asynchronous motor);
    • belts of different lengths can be used as a driving stone;
    • screws and nuts for fastening the structure;
    • guides, sleds made of steel rod;
    • spindle and tailstock (it is better to find ready-made parts, but you can make them from a profile pipe or a piece of metal sheet);
    • feed screws - do-it-yourself long rods with longitudinal and transverse threads are suitable for a lathe;
    • rolling bearings as elements of rotation;
    • squalls of different diameters;
    • steel plate with a thickness of at least 8 mm - for the caliper and tool holder.

    Where to get a lathe project

    An important step in creating a homemade lathe is the design and drawing of a circuit indicating the dimensions of the device. As a basis, you can use examples of factory products or drawings of masters that are freely available on the Internet.

    Standard dimensions of turning equipment: 115x62x18 cm. Such parameters are considered optimal for work.


    Manufacturing process

    Making a lathe for metal with your own hands is carried out in accordance with step by step guide for main nodes:


    1. Formation of the frame according to the drawing. The pipes are cut and welded together, it is important that the corners are even.
    2. Creating side racks (for this it is better to use another milling machine).
    3. Collection reference installation, connection of racks with guides, installation of spacers on the sides.
    4. Fixing bushings for the tailstock. If you use these details different size, more progress can be achieved.
    5. Creating a platform for the caliper.
    6. Installation of the lead screw, fastening the steering wheel and vernier on it.
    7. Installation of the platform of the headstock.
    8. Attachment to the machine headstock.
    9. Creation of a caliper and tool holder.
    10. Formation of the engine subframe.
    11. Installation of the power unit and its connection to the mains.
    12. Test run at idle.

    Do-it-yourself metal lathe is quite easy to make. It is important to maintain the design parameters, ensure a rigid connection and select a suitable motor.

    Video: How to make a lathe for metal with your own hands

    Zealous owners, accustomed to doing all the housework with their own hands, sooner or later come to the conclusion that in the arsenal of the home workshop there is not enough homemade turning device for processing metal blanks. A person who once used such equipment boasts to his comrades for a long time how easily and naturally on such a machine a neat piece made by himself is obtained from a shapeless piece of iron.

    Naturally, you can buy ready product in the store, but not everyone can afford it, and therefore many people decide to make turning equipment for metal with their own hands. But for this, a home craftsman must understand the principle of operation and arrangement of such equipment and prepare everything Consumables . You will also need a minimum set of tools and, of course, the desire to do not the easiest work on your own.

    Why do you need a homemade lathe?

    There is not a single real owner who would not want to get a compact, reliable, and most importantly inexpensive machine for metal processing in his arsenal. Such equipment allows you to perform many, both simple and complex operations associated with the manufacture of metal parts, starting with boring holes and ending with blanks made of metal of unusual shapes.

    Of course, if the financial situation allows, then you can not bother with the manufacture of a lathe with your own hands. However, factory equipment has an impressive size, and placing it in a garage or small utility room will be problematic. Therefore, the only right decision is to manufacture metalworking equipment with your own hands according to your size, which will meet all the requirements.

    A self-assembled machine for processing metal products, which will be manufactured, taking into account all the features of its use, will have simple controls, do not take up much useful space in the room and be distinguished by simple and at the same time reliable operation. On such a lathe for metal, you can easily process any workpieces of small sizes made of steel.

    The design and principle of operation of the lathe

    Before you start assembling metalworking equipment with your own hands, it is important to familiarize yourself with the main components and mechanisms of a metal lathe. In the design of the simplest equipment, it is necessary includes the following elements:

    The components of a homemade lathe are placed on the bed. In the case of a do-it-yourself unit, this is a metal frame. The tailstock moves along the frame base. In turn, the purpose of the headstock is to accommodate the base mechanism that rotates the equipment. Moreover, this element has a fixed structure. A transmission mechanism is installed on the bed, connecting the leading center with an electric motor. Through this central device, the rotational movement is transmitted to the metal workpiece to be processed.

    The frame of a do-it-yourself metal lathe, in most cases made from wooden blocks. In addition to wood, you can use metal corners or steel profiles. The material from which the frame will be made does not really matter, the main thing is that the centers of the equipment are securely and motionlessly fastened to the base.

    Almost any electric motor can be installed on home-made metalworking equipment, even with insignificant power indicators. However, it is important to understand that a low-power motor may not be able to cope with the rotation of bulky metal blanks at the right speed, which will lead to a decrease in the quality of the work being done. Low-power motors are best used if you plan to machine wood parts on a lathe.

    The message of rotational movement from the electric motor to the main unit of the machine occurs through a friction, belt or chain type of transmission. At the same time, the belt drive is considered the most popular, since has a low cost with high reliability. I would like to note that some home craftsmen assemble equipment in which the transmission mechanism is not provided, and the working tool is fixed directly on the motor shaft.

    Features of homemade machines

    In order to prevent increased vibration of the metal workpiece being processed, it is important to ensure that the leading and driven center structure is placed on the same axis. If you plan to assemble the machine with your own hands only with a leading center, then it is necessary to foresee the installation of a special cam mechanism - a chuck or a faceplate.

    On the advice of experienced specialists, the installation of collector electric motors on home-made metal processing units is not recommended. Such devices may spontaneous increase in speed in the absence of a work load, which, in turn, leads to the departure of the workpiece from the fasteners and possible injury to the person working at the machine. A part flying out at high speed can cause a lot of damage in the confined space of a home workshop.

    If, for some reason, the installation of a collector-type electric motor is inevitable, then it is imperative to install a special reduction gear. Thanks to this mechanism, it is possible to completely prevent uncontrolled acceleration of the equipment in the absence of a load on the workpiece.

    The most practical, convenient and inexpensive for a do-it-yourself metal lathe is an asynchronous electric motor. Such a motor has high stability during load without speed change, which allows to ensure high quality of processed metal blanks, the width of which does not exceed 100 mm. In general, the design and power parameters of the electric motor must be selected in such a way that the part to be processed receives the necessary force during rotation.

    The mechanism of the driven center, located on the tailstock, can have both a fixed and a rotating design. For its manufacture, a standard bolt is used, which is sharpened in a conical shape on the threaded section of the product. The prepared part is lubricated with engine oil and mounted in advance in the internal thread cut in the tailstock. The bolt should have a free play of about 25–30 mm. Due to the rotation of the bolt, the workpiece is pressed between the central mechanisms.

    Assembly procedure for turning equipment

    The easiest to make with your own hands is considered to be a beam-type metalworking machine. The use of such home-made equipment allows you to grind metal and wood products, as well as, with a slight improvement, sharpen knives and other cutting tools. Such equipment is very useful if a car or other moving vehicle is to be repaired. At the same time, the assembly procedure itself provides some simple work.

    A self-made design of a metal lathe, assembled by oneself, can be used not only for its intended purpose, but also for other domestic needs. It is possible on one of the moving parts connected to the shaft of the electric motor, install grinding wheel and sharpen various tools on it or perform grinding or polishing surfaces.

    Selection of power equipment

    The frame of home-made equipment, if possible, should be mounted on a metal base by securely fastening it to the frame. After that, you need to install all the individual components and mechanisms of the turning unit, which are not so many. At the next stage, they proceed to work with the power unit of the equipment. First of all, you need to choose an electric motor of appropriate parameters. Since we are talking about the processing of metal - a fairly durable material, then the motor must be powerful:

    • when processing small metal parts, a motor with a power of 0.5 to 1 kW is sufficient;
    • for turning larger workpieces, it is better to use a 1.5-2 kW motor.

    For homemade metalworking equipment, an engine from an old sewing machine or from any other unnecessary household appliance is suitable. The choice depends on what is found in the home workshop or will cost inexpensively when buying in a store. A hollow steel shaft is connected to the electric motor, or as it is called, the spindle head. For this purpose, a belt or any available transmission is used. The shaft is connected to a pulley mounted on a key. A pulley will be needed to place the working part of the tool on it.

    Connection of power mechanisms performed either on their own, or turn to specialists for help. At the same time, an experienced electrician will do everything quickly and efficiently, and the owner of the machine will have complete confidence in the safety of using electrical parts of the lathe. After the assembly work is completed, the equipment is ready for use. Also, if necessary, a person can expand the functionality of the equipment.

    Having made a machine for processing metal parts with your own hands, a person will receive an indispensable assistant in a home workshop. And given the versatility of such equipment, everyone will be able to hone their skills in plumbing. A self-made machine will meet all the requirements for it and will not take up much space in a house or garage.

    DIY do-it-yourself metal lathe: drawings, photos,

    Many home craftsmen are thinking about how to make a metal lathe on their own. Such a desire is explained by the fact that with the help of such a device, which will cost quite inexpensively, it is possible to effectively perform a large list of turning operations, giving metal blanks the required dimensions and shape. It would seem that it is much easier to purchase a simple desktop machine and use it in your workshop, but given the considerable cost of such equipment, it makes sense to spend time making it yourself.

    Homemade lathe - it's quite real

    Using a lathe

    The lathe, which was one of the first to appear in the line of equipment for processing parts from different materials, including metal, allows you to manufacture products of various shapes and sizes. With the help of such a unit, it is possible to turn the outer and inner surfaces of the workpiece, drill holes and bore them to the required size, cut external or internal threads, perform knurling in order to give the surface of the product the desired relief.

    A serial metal lathe is a large-sized device that is not so easy to manage, and its cost is very difficult to call affordable. It is not easy to use such a unit as a desktop equipment, so it makes sense to make a lathe for your home workshop yourself. Using such a mini-machine, you can quickly turn workpieces made not only from metal, but also from plastic and wood.

    On such equipment, parts with a circular cross section are processed: axles, tool handles, wheels, structural elements of furniture and products for any other purpose. In such devices, the workpiece is located in a horizontal plane, while it is given rotation, and the excess material is removed by a cutter, securely fixed in the machine support.

    Grooving a brake disc on a homemade lathe

    Despite the simplicity of its design, such a unit requires a clear coordination of the movements of all working bodies so that the processing is carried out with the utmost precision and the best workmanship.

    An example of a homemade lathe with drawings

    Let us consider in more detail one of the working options for a lathe assembled on its own, the rather high quality of which rightfully deserves the closest attention. The author of this homemade product did not even stint on the drawings, according to which this device was successfully manufactured.

    Of course, not everyone needs such a thorough approach to business, often simpler structures are built for home needs, but as a donor for good ideas, this machine fits perfectly.

    DIY lathe

    Structural knots

    Any, including home-made, lathe consists of the following structural elements: a supporting frame - a bed, two centers - a leading and a driven one, two headstocks - front and rear, a spindle, a caliper, a drive unit - an electric motor.

    The design of a small-sized lathe about metal

    All elements of the device are placed on the bed; it is the main bearing element of the lathe. The headstock is a fixed structural element on which the rotating spindle of the unit is located. In front of the frame there is a transmission mechanism of the machine, with the help of which its rotating elements are connected to the electric motor.

    It is thanks to this transmission mechanism that the workpiece receives rotation. The tailstock, unlike the front, can move parallel to the direction of processing, with its help the free end of the workpiece is fixed.

    A simple diagram of the nodes of a home-made woodworking machine will tell you a simple option for making a bed, front and rear headstock

    A homemade metal lathe can be equipped with any electric motor, even if it is not too high power, but such an engine can overheat when processing large-sized workpieces, which will lead to its stop and, possibly, failure.

    Usually, electric motors are installed on a homemade lathe, the power of which is in the range of 800–1500 watts.

    Even if such an electric motor has a small number of revolutions, the problem is solved by choosing the appropriate transmission mechanism. To transmit torque from such electric motors, belt drives are usually used; friction or chain mechanisms are very rarely used.

    Mini-lathes that home workshops are equipped with may not even have such a transmission mechanism in their design: the rotating chuck of the unit is fixed directly on the motor shaft.

    Direct drive machine

    There is one important rule: both centers of the machine, leading and driven, must be located strictly on the same axis, which will avoid vibration of the workpiece during its processing. In addition, it is necessary to ensure reliable fixation of the part, which is especially important for models of the frontal type: with one leading center. The issue of such fixation is solved with the help of a cam chuck or a faceplate.

    In fact, a do-it-yourself lathe can also be made with a wooden frame, but, as a rule, metal profiles are used for these purposes. The high rigidity of the frame of the lathe is necessary so that the accuracy of the location of the leading and driven center is not affected by mechanical loads, and its tailstock and support with the tool move freely along the axis of the unit.

    The use of channels in the manufacture of the frame and headstock of the machine

    When assembling a lathe for metal, it is important to ensure that all its elements are securely fixed, always taking into account the loads to which they will be subjected during operation. What dimensions your mini-machine will have, and what structural elements it will consist of, will be influenced by the purpose of the equipment, as well as the size and shape of the workpieces that are planned to be processed on it. The power of the electric motor that you will need to use as a drive will also depend on these parameters, as well as on the planned load on the unit.

    Version of the bed, headstock and drive

    To equip lathes for metal, it is not recommended to choose collector motors that differ in one characteristic feature. The number of revolutions of the shaft of such electric motors, as well as the centrifugal force that the workpiece develops, increase sharply with a decrease in load, which can lead to the part simply flying out of the chuck and can seriously injure the operator.

    Such electric motors can be used if you plan to process medium-sized and light parts on your mini-machine. But even in this case, the lathe must be equipped with a gearbox that will prevent the uncontrolled increase in centrifugal force.

    Asynchronous three-phase electric motor connected to a 220 Volt network through a capacitor

    It has already been proven by practice and design calculations that for turning units that will process metal workpieces up to 70 cm long and up to 10 cm in diameter, it is best to use asynchronous electric motors with a power of 800 W or more. Engines of this type are characterized by the stability of the rotational speed in the presence of a load, and when it is reduced, it does not increase uncontrollably.

    If you are going to make a mini-machine for turning metal work on your own, then you should definitely take into account the fact that not only transverse, but also longitudinal loads will affect its cartridge. Such loads, if not provided for by a belt drive, can cause destruction of the motor bearings, which are not designed for them.

    If it is not possible to use a belt drive, and the leading center of the device is directly connected to the motor shaft, then a number of measures can be taken to protect its bearings from destruction. Such a measure can be a stop that limits the longitudinal movement of the motor shaft, which can be used as a ball installed between the motor housing and the rear end of its shaft.

    In the tailstock of the lathe, its driven center is located, which can be stationary or freely rotate. The most simple design has a fixed center: it is easy to make it on the basis of a conventional bolt, sharpening and grinding to a cone that part of it that will be in contact with the workpiece. By screwing in or unscrewing such a bolt moving through a threaded hole in the tailstock, it will be possible to adjust the distance between the centers of the equipment, thereby ensuring a secure fixation of the workpiece. Such fixation is also provided by moving the tailstock itself.

    In order for the workpiece to rotate freely in such a fixed center, the pointed part of the bolt that comes into contact with it will need to be lubricated with machine oil before starting work.

    Homemade tailstock for a desktop lathe

    Today it is not difficult to find drawings and photos of lathes, according to which you can independently manufacture such equipment. Moreover, it is easy to find various ones that demonstrate the process of their manufacture. It can be a mini-CNC machine or a very simple device, which, nevertheless, will give you the opportunity to quickly and with minimal labor to produce metal products of various configurations.

    Racks of the simplest metal lathe can be made of wood. They will need to be securely fastened to the frame of the unit using bolted connections. The frame itself, if possible, is best made from metal corners or a channel, which will provide it with high reliability, but if they are not at hand, you can also pick up thick wooden bars.

    The following shows the process of self-manufacturing a caliper for a lathe.

    As a node on such a machine, on which the cutting tool will be fixed and moved, a handguard made of two wooden planks connected at an angle of 90 degrees will act. On the surface of the board where the tool will be placed, it is necessary to fix a sheet of metal that will protect the wood from deformation and ensure the exact location of the cutter in relation to the workpiece. In the supporting surface of a horizontal plank moving along the frame of the unit, it is necessary to make a slot, due to which such movement will be sufficiently accurate.

    To make the headstock and tailstock of your homemade lathe, you will need to select metal cylinders of the appropriate size, which are placed in bearing assemblies installed in wooden racks. The rotation made by the workpiece will be transmitted to it through the front center, connected by a belt drive to the electric motor. Thus, the workpiece, securely fixed between the front and rear center, is processed using a cutter installed in the tool rest of the equipment.

    Another option for a homemade machine (click to enlarge)

    There should be no problems with the search for an electric motor, which should be equipped with a mini lathe. Even if you could not find an engine of the required power (500–1000 W for processing small parts, 1500–2000 W for large-sized workpieces), then a previously used unit previously installed on a household sewing machine is quite suitable. In addition, it is permissible to use electric drills or grinders as a drive for compact lathes.

    As a result of such simple manipulations, you will have at your disposal a machine capable of performing the most common metal turning operations. If desired, the unit can be upgraded, expanding its functionality. Of course, it is difficult to make a CNC machine from such a device, but it is quite possible to perform boring, drilling, grinding, threading and a number of other technological operations on metal on it.

    https://met-all.org

    legkoe-delo.ru

    DIY do-it-yourself metal lathe: manufacturing and operation

    A lathe is needed for the manufacture and processing of metal parts. professional equipment it is quite expensive, so in order to save money, you can make a home-made lathe for metal with your own hands. This can be done in several ways, and drawings of such a product are easily found on the Internet. You can use improvised materials for manufacturing, but the size of the machine can be any.

    A professional lathe has a high cost, so it makes sense to make such a device yourself

    • 1 Components of a mini-lathe for metal with your own hands
      • 1.1 Do-it-yourself lathe support: drawings, how to make from improvised materials
    • 2 Do-it-yourself homemade metal lathe: assembly procedure
    • 3 Choosing an electric motor for the machine
    • 4 Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands
    • 5 Features of the work of metal lathes with your own hands, video instructions as a way to avoid mistakes
    • 6 Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe
    • 7 Options for upgrading a homemade lathe

    Components of a mini-lathe for metal with your own hands

    Any homemade lathe consists of the following elements:

    • drive - the main part of the mechanism, which is responsible for its power. Choosing a drive with the required power is one of the most difficult tasks. In small lathes for metal with your own hands, you can use a drive from a conventional washing machine or drills. Usually, the power of this element starts from 200 W, and the number of revolutions per minute - from 1500;
    • bed - the supporting frame of the structure, which can be made of wooden bars or a steel corner. The bed must be characterized by high strength, otherwise the whole structure may fall apart from vibrations during operation;

    Projection and main components of a lathe for metal

    • tailstock - made of a steel plate and a steel corner welded to it. The plate rests against the guide beds, and the main purpose of the tailstock of the lathe with your own hands is to fix the metal part during processing;
    • headstock - a part similar to the tailstock, but mounted on a movable frame;
    • leading and slave centers;
    • caliper - a thrust mechanism for the working part.

    Torque from the engine to the working part of the machine can be transmitted in several ways. Someone prefers to directly install the working part on the motor shaft - this saves space and allows you to save on spare parts. If this option is not possible, the torque can be transmitted using a friction, belt or chain drive. Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages.

    A belt drive for an electric motor is the cheapest and is characterized by a fairly high level of reliability. For its manufacture, you can use a belt for an electric motor, removed from any other mechanism. The disadvantage of a belt drive is that over time the belt can wear out and will need to be changed more often the more intensively you work with the machine.

    The device of the front and rear headstock of a lathe. Headstock (left): 1 - wedge-shaped belt; 2 - two-stage pulley; 3 - spindle; 4 - ball bearing. Tailstock (right): 1 - body; 2 - center; 3, 6 - handles; 4 - quill; 5, 12, 14 - screws; 7 - flywheel; 8 - thrust; 9, 10 - levers; 13 - nut

    A chain drive is more expensive and takes up more space, but will also last much longer than a belt drive. Friction transmission has intermediate characteristics between belt and chain.

    Do-it-yourself lathe caliper: drawings, how to make from improvised materials

    The caliper is one of the most important parts of a homemade lathe - the quality of the future part depends on it, as well as the amount of time and effort that you spend on its manufacture. This part is located on a special sled that moves along the guides located on the frame. The caliper can move in three directions:

    • longitudinal - the working part of the machine moves along the workpiece. Longitudinal motion is used to turn a thread into a part or to remove a layer of material from the surface of a metal workpiece;

    DIY metal lathe

    • transverse - movement perpendicular to the axis of the workpiece. Used for turning recesses and holes;
    • oblique - movement at different angles to make recesses on the surface of the workpiece.

    When making a lathe caliper with your own hands, it is worth considering the fact that this part is subject to wear as a result of vibrations that occur during operation. Because of them, the fasteners are loosened, there is a backlash, all this affects the quality of the manufactured part. In order to avoid such problems, the caliper must be regularly adjusted and adjusted.

    Do-it-yourself adjustment of a home-made caliper for a lathe is carried out according to gaps, backlash and oil seals. Clearance adjustment is needed when the screw responsible for moving the part in the longitudinal and transverse planes has worn out. As a result of friction, the caliper begins to loosen under loads, which significantly reduces the accuracy of manufacturing the part. You can eliminate the gaps by inserting wedges between the guides and the carriage. The backlash of the part is eliminated with a fixing screw.

    If the oil seals are worn out in your machine, they should be thoroughly washed and soaked with fresh machine oil. In case of critical wear, it is better to completely replace the seals with new ones.

    Caliper device: 1 - caliper carriage; 2 - lead screw; 3 - cross slide of the caliper; 4 - the rotary part of the caliper; 5 - guides of the rotary part; 6 - tool holder; 7 - screw for fixing the tool holder; 8 - screws for fixing the cutters; 9 - handle for turning the tool holder; 10 - nuts; 11 - the upper part of the caliper; 12 - transverse guide carriages; 13 - handle for moving the upper part of the caliper; 14 - handle for moving the cross slide; 15 - handle for turning on the supply of the caliper from the lead screw; 16 - handwheel for longitudinal movement of the caliper; 17 - apron

    Do-it-yourself homemade lathe for metal with your own hands: assembly procedure

    The mechanism is assembled in the following order:

  • The machine frame is assembled from metal beams and channels. If you are going to work with large parts, then the materials for assembling the frame must be used with the expectation of a large load. For example, if you plan to work with metal blanks over 50 mm long, the thickness of the materials for the frame should start from 3 mm for corners and from 30 mm for rods.
  • Longitudinal shafts with guides are installed on the channels. Shafts can be welded or bolted.
  • The headstock is being made. To make the headstock of a lathe with your own hands, a hydraulic cylinder with a wall thickness of 6 mm or more is used. Two bearings must be pressed into the cylinder.
  • The shaft is laid. For this, bearings with a large inner diameter are used.
  • Lubricant is poured into the hydraulic cylinder.
  • A pulley and a caliper with guides are installed.
  • The electric drive is mounted.
  • In addition, according to the do-it-yourself drawings of a metal lathe, it can be seen that a handpiece is made to increase the stability of the cutting mechanism, and a thin strip of metal is fixed on the lower part of the structure. The latter serves to protect the working part of the machine from deformation during operation.

    The device of a home-made lathe for metal processing: 1, 7 - channels; 2 - running pipe; 3 - tailstock; 4 - pallet for collecting chips; 5 - support; 6 - lead screw; 8 - electric motor; 9 - fixed headstock; 10 - lamp in a protective cap-reflector; 11 - mesh screen to protect the turner from chips; 12 - support

    Choosing an electric motor for a machine

    The most important part of a homemade metal lathe, the video of which can be easily found on the Internet, is the electric motor. It is with its help that the movement of the working part of the machine is carried out. Accordingly, the power of the entire structure depends on the power of this mechanism. It is selected depending on the size of the metal blanks with which you plan to work.

    If you plan to work on a machine with small parts, a motor with a power of up to 1 kW is quite suitable for this. It can be removed from the old sewing machine or any other similar electrical appliance. To work with large parts, you will need an engine with a power of 1.5-2 kW.

    When assembling a homemade metal lathe according to ready-made drawings, keep in mind that all electrical parts of the structure must be securely isolated. If you do not have the necessary experience with electrical equipment, it is better to seek help from a specialist in connection. So you will be sure of the safety of work and the reliability of the design.

    The asynchronous motor is the best option for homemade lathe

    Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands

    If you want to save on spare parts and greatly simplify the task of assembling a homemade lathe, you can use a conventional electric drill as a drive. Such constructive solution there are a number of advantages:

  • The ability to quickly assemble and disassemble the structure - the drill can be easily detached from the bed and can be used for its intended purpose.
  • The ease of carrying and transporting the machine is a good option if you have to work with metal blanks in the garage and on the street.
  • Savings - the drill acts not only as an electric motor, but also eliminates the need to use a gear, and also allows you to use interchangeable nozzles as a working tool.
  • Of course, there are also negative sides to a lathe from a drill. How to make processing large parts possible with this tool? This is practically impossible, since the drill has a relatively small torque and a large number of revolutions. Of course, you can increase these parameters if you still install a belt drive and use it to transmit torque from the drill to the spindle, but this will greatly complicate the design, the main advantage of which is simplicity and compactness.

    Diagram of a homemade lathe based on a drill: 1 - fastening to a table or workbench; 2 - front support; 3 - support for the workpiece; 4 - rear support

    Making a homemade desktop metal lathe based on a drill makes sense in cases where you do not need to carry out large-scale work, and only small details need to be turned.

    To make a metal lathe based on an electric drill, you will need the same parts as for a conventional design, with the exception of an electric motor and a headstock. The role of the latter is also performed by a drill. Given the compactness of the design, an ordinary table or workbench can be used as a bed, on which all components of the machine will be fixed. The drill itself is fixed in the structure with a clamp and a clamp.

    Using a homemade lathe, you can not only grind parts, but also apply paint to a rotating workpiece, wind wire on a transformer, make spiral notches on the surface of a part, and perform many other actions. In addition, if you assemble a copier attachment for the machine, then with its help you can quickly and effortlessly produce small identical parts.

    Drawing of the front support, inside which the drill is fixed

    Features of the work of lathes for metal with their own hands, video instructions as a way to avoid mistakes

    Like any other equipment, homemade lathes have their own characteristics that must be considered during assembly and operation. For example, when working with large parts or when using a powerful electric motor, strong vibrations occur, which can lead to serious errors in the processing of the part. To get rid of vibrations, the leading and driven centers of the machine must be installed on the same axis. And if you plan to install only the leading center, a cam mechanism should be attached to it.

    In do-it-yourself desktop lathes for metal, it is not recommended to install a commutator motor. It is prone to a spontaneous increase in the number of revolutions, which can lead to the departure of the part. This, in turn, can lead to work injury or property damage. If, however, it is impossible to do without installing a collector motor, it is imperative to install a gearbox with it to lower the speed.

    The ideal motor option for a homemade lathe is asynchronous. It does not increase the speed during operation, is resistant to heavy loads and allows you to work with metal blanks with a width of up to 100 mm.

    The most important thing when working on a lathe is safety

    The rules for installing and operating any type of electric motor for a lathe can be viewed in numerous video instructions on the Internet. With their help, you will not only avoid common assembly errors, but also save time and effort due to the visibility of the material.

    Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe

    When working with the structure, certain safety precautions must be observed. So, after assembling the machine, you need to check its performance. The spindle should turn easily and without delay, the front and rear centers should be aligned on common axis. The center of symmetry of a rotating part must coincide with its axis of rotation.

    On any video of the lathe with your own hands, you can see that after mounting the electric motor, it is covered with a special casing. The latter serves not only to protect the operator of the machine, but also to protect the motor itself from dust, metal particles and dirt. For a machine made on the basis of an electric drill, such a casing is not needed.

    An example of a do-it-yourself metal lathe

    You should also adhere to the following safety rules:

  • The working tool must be parallel to the surface of the workpiece. Otherwise, it may come off, resulting in damage to the machine.
  • If you are machining end planes, the part should rest against the tailstock. It is very important to maintain alignment, otherwise you risk getting a defective part.
  • To protect your eyes from metal chips and particles, you can build a special shield or just use goggles.
  • After work, the structure must be cleaned, removing metal filings and other production waste. Be careful not to let small parts get into the motor.
  • Options for upgrading a homemade lathe

    If you need a mechanism that can not only perform turning work, but also grind and paint a workpiece, the basic machine can be easily modified. It is best to do this for a design based on an electric drill, since it is easiest to replace the working part in it.

    The lathe can be a multifunctional device in the workshop, with which you can perform various tasks, including household ones: sharpening knives, scissors, etc.

    There are several popular modifications of the lathe for metal. How to make a conical hole? To do this, two files must be attached to the base so that they form a trapezoid. After that, a spring mechanism is mounted, which ensures that the files are fed forward and at an angle, which allows drilling cone-shaped holes into the part.

    In addition, to work with metal parts of different lengths, you can make a machine with a collapsible base. With the help of several boards or metal corners, you can bring the working tool closer or further to the fasteners that hold the part, as well as change the size of the gap between the fasteners. It is most convenient to make such a design on the basis of a conventional table or workbench.

    If you attach a grinding wheel to the electric motor as a working tool, you can use the machine not only to polish the surface of the part, but also to sharpen knives, scissors and other household tools. Thus, the lathe turns into a convenient multifunctional mechanism.

    Creating a lathe with your own hands will allow you to get equipment that is optimally suited to the needs of the owner

    Assembling a lathe at home is a fairly simple task, which is further simplified by numerous video instructions and drawings from the Internet. At the same time, you can literally assemble the structure from improvised parts, using the old household appliances and waste of assembly and construction production.

    The main advantage of self-assembly is cost savings. In addition, it is worth noting the ability to independently adjust the dimensions and power of the device in order to adapt it to your needs. A home-made machine can be not only large, but also quite miniature, designed for processing small parts.

    ibuildrussia.ru

    How to assemble a lathe for metal with your own hands

    A lathe is necessary for the production and processing of metal parts. Factory devices cost a lot of money. That is why, for greater savings, it is worth making a lathe with a cutter to process iron with your own hands. You can quickly assemble it in several ways, and high-quality drawings and videos are worth looking for on the net. Any available materials can be used for assembly, and the dimensions of the machine depend on production needs.

    The main components of a small lathe

    A high-quality do-it-yourself lathe always consists of the following parts:

    The torque from the electric motor to the working part of the device can be transmitted in several ways. Some people directly put the working part on the axis of the electric motor. This method will help save space and the number of spare parts for the machine. When this method cannot be implemented, then the torque should be transmitted using different types gears. Each of these methods has advantages and disadvantages.

    The belt drive for the engine is considered the cheapest and has good reliability. To make it, you need to use a belt for the engine, which is removed from another product. The main disadvantage of a belt drive is that after some time the belt frays and will need to be replaced. The frequency of replacement depends on the intensity of the machine.

    A chain drive often takes up a lot of space and is very expensive. Its service life is much longer than that of a belt mechanism. And the friction transmission is characterized by average characteristics, in contrast to the chain and belt mechanism.

    A good do-it-yourself caliper for a metal lathe: drawings

    The caliper can be considered the most important part of a do-it-yourself machine, because it is he who affects the quality of the workpiece, the amount of effort and the length of time spent on its manufacture. Such a part is placed on a specialized sled that moves along the guides installed on the fixture frame. The caliper is able to move in the following directions:

    • Longitudinally, when the entire working part of the device and the cutter moves along the workpiece. Such a movement is used to make a thread in a workpiece or when removing a small layer from the surface of a metal product.
    • Transverse, when the movement of the cutter occurs perpendicular to the working axis of the workpiece. This movement is used for precise turning of holes and various recesses.
    • Oblique, when the movement of the cutter occurs at different angles. This motion is often used to make small indentations in a workpiece.

    In the manufacture of the caliper of a small home-made machine, it must be taken into account that this part is subject to wear due to strong vibration during operation. As a result, the fasteners are often loosened and a backlash appears between them, which affects the quality of the workpiece being processed. To avoid such problems, the caliper needs to be adjusted and tuned frequently.

    Adjustment of the caliper of a small machine is carried out by backlash, gaps and several seals. Such work must be done when there is wear on the screw, which is responsible for the movement of the part in the transverse as well as in the longitudinal plane. Due to the high friction, the caliper can loosen under heavy loads, and this reduces the accuracy of the workpiece. It is necessary to eliminate backlashes by installing wedges between the carriage and special guides. A small gap in the workpiece can be eliminated using a special fixing bolt.

    When oil seals wear out in a homemade machine, they should be washed well and treated with high-quality lubricant. With a lot of wear, the seals must be replaced with new parts.

    How to assemble a good mini metal lathe with your own hands

    Making a good machine to process iron with your own hands is always done in this order:

    And also according to numerous drawings, it is clear that in order to increase the stability of the cutter mechanism, it is necessary to make a specialized handpiece, and at the bottom of the product it is worth installing a small iron strip. This strip is necessary for reliable protection of the working units of the device from damage during the processing of workpieces.

    How to choose a motor for a homemade metal machine

    The most important part of the lathe, whose assembly photos and videos can be found on the net, is the electric motor. With its help, the working part of the product moves. Thus, the maximum power of the machine depends on the power of this part. This indicator must be chosen depending on the dimensions of the iron blanks that will be processed in the future.

    When you need to process small workpieces on a lathe, then an electric motor with a maximum power of up to 1.4 kilowatts is enough for it, which can be taken from a simple sewing machine or other electrical device. To work with large workpieces, you need an electric motor with a power of up to 2 kilowatts.

    When making a small lathe using videos or drawings, you need to consider that all electrical components of the device must be well insulated. When there is not much experience with such equipment, it is worth seeking help from a qualified specialist. This can ensure the safety of the assembly and the reliability of the fixture.

    How to quickly assemble a homemade metal lathe from a drill

    When you need to save on spare parts and just make it easier to make a device with your own hands, you can use a simple electric drill instead of a drive. Such a method has the following advantages:

    1. Production takes little time, because the drill is very simply attached to the machine bed.
    2. Transporting a homemade machine is very easy, because it is often necessary to work with iron parts outdoors or indoors.
    3. Big savings, because the electric drill not only replaces the engine, but also eliminates the need for a gear. Additionally, you can use various nozzles instead of many types of tools.

    There are some drawbacks to a homemade device from a drill. It is quite difficult to process large workpieces with such a desktop machine, because the electric drill has a small torque and a large number of revolutions. And you can also increase the power of the machine if you put a belt drive. With its help, torque will be transmitted from the electric drill to the shaft. However, this will greatly complicate the device, the advantage of which is compactness and simplicity.

    Assembling the machine using an electric drill is advisable in cases where you do not need to process large parts, but only small workpieces are machined.

    To assemble a similar product, the same parts will be needed as for standard model except for the headstock and engine. The drill will replace the electric motor. Due to the compactness of the machine, the bed can be a workbench or a simple table on which all the details of the device will be fixed. The electric drill is attached to the product with a clamp and a metal clamp.

    With the help of such a lathe, it is possible not only to manufacture various parts, but also to paint blanks, wind wire on a transformer, apply spiral notches to the surface of products, and perform other necessary actions. And also if you make a special attachment for the machine, then it will be possible to easily produce small identical products.

    Metal lathes






    A homemade lathe in most cases successfully replaces expensive factory fixtures. Especially when there is a desire to process metal with minimal equipment costs.

    It is not difficult to make a small desktop lathe with your own hands, or you can choose a more complicated drawing for a garage. The cost of parts and materials is affordable, some spare parts are likely to be found on the farm.

    Main elements and principle of operation

    One of the most important characteristics of a metal lathe is the ability to withstand the severe loads that occur during metal processing. At the same time, accuracy and speed are required.

    A simple design for metal processing at home contains:

    • base (frame);
    • two racks (they are grandmas);
    • electric motor;
    • movement transmission mechanism;
    • fixture for fixing the workpiece;
    • stop for the cutter (caliper).

    The main mechanisms are located in the headstock, but the homemade motor can be located outside. With the help of the transmission mechanism, the movement from the engine is transmitted to the spindle - a hollow shaft, to which the workpiece is attached using a chuck. serves to maintain the free end of the part.

    Machining precision is achieved not only by skillful hands:

    • foundation stability;
    • lack of "beating" of the spindle;
    • reliable fastening of the workpiece in the chuck.

    Made in accordance with all the rules, the mini-machine is easy to operate and compact. It is suitable for processing small metal parts of various shapes, blanks made of wood, plastic.

    Selection of parts

    When the drawings of all components and fixtures are developed, you can begin to select parts.

    Base

    The purpose of the frame is a rigid fixation of the leading and driven centers. For a desktop mini-machine, you can do it yourself from a wooden block. This design will withstand work with small metal parts. A stationary frame for a garage or workshop must be durable, it is welded from a corner, metal strips or a channel. It is recommended to use factory-made guides. In the absence of them, they are assembled from rolled metal with their own hands.

    The dimensions of the bed determine the dimensions of the parts to be processed. So, the length of the workpiece depends on the distance between the faceplate (chuck) and the center of the tailstock.

    Electric motor and transmission

    The most suitable for a homemade machine is an asynchronous motor. Its feature is a constant rotation speed. To process metal blanks, the following power is required:

    • for work with small workpieces made of soft metals - 0.5 - 1 kW;
    • for working with large parts and steels - 1.5 - 2 kW.

    A motor from a high power electric drill is quite suitable.

    The use of collector motors whose rotation speed depends on the load should be avoided. Accelerating at idle, it can lead to ejection of the workpiece from the chuck and injury to the hands. If there is no other engine, the collector must be supplemented with a gearbox that controls the speed under any load.

    The transmission can be used belt or gear. It is easier to assemble a belt with your own hands, it is quite reliable. The belt levels the force directed along the shaft and destroying the bearings of the electric motor.

    You can also use a gearbox that will allow you to work at several speeds. And you can increase the engine speed with the help of an additional pulley.

    An alternative to the transmission mechanism is to mount the tool chuck directly on the motor shaft. Such a device is often used for desktop mini-machines assembled from a drill or a hand-held engraver. When planning it, you need to choose an engine with a sufficiently long shaft! To partially compensate for the load along the shaft, a stop is installed between its end and the rear surface of the housing, for example, in the form of a ball.

    Master and slave centers

    In order for the part to rotate smoothly and not vibrate, the centers must be located strictly on the same axis. The workpiece is fixed with a faceplate or cam chuck.

    The driven center is located on the rear support and can rotate or be stationary. A threaded hole is made in the support and a bolt is screwed in, which is sharpened under a cone. The bolt should have a stroke of about 3 cm in order to firmly press the inserted workpiece. The rear support (headstock) moves along the base along the guide. But in the simplest mini-machines, the end of the workpiece is supported by a retractable sharpened threaded pin, the amplitude of which is small.

    Machine assembly process

    We take an old working drill as the basis for the design.

    1. From corner No. 40 we weld a base 70 cm long: at the edges there are two long corners, between them two - 40 cm long - this is the length of the working area. We leave a gap between the short corners - the guide.
    2. The headstock in this case is a stand in which you need to conveniently and securely fix the drill. Let's make it from a metal corner and plates. In the vertical part we cut a round hole for a drill chuck. The cartridge must fit snugly into the hole.
    3. We weld the headstock to the base on the corner.
    4. The base for the tailstock is cut from the No. 100 corner. In the center of the horizontal part of the corner, we drill a hole for a bolt that runs along the guide and holds the headstock. From below, the bolt is welded to a rectangular pressure plate, from above it is adjusted with a nut.

    The caliper or tool post will move along the center guide. For the manufacture of a caliper, you will need a cast-iron blank with a diameter of 80 mm, from which 2 parallelepipeds are cut out with a grinder. We cut holes in them for bushings with a diameter of 22 mm. We will make the rods from the axle shafts of the passenger car found in the garage.

    The base and side parts are cut out of a metal plate. We weld a bronze nut between the rods, pressed into a steel sleeve, where we screw in a threaded pin passing through a hole in one of the sidewalls. Here we weld a homemade handle or lamb. We drill a vertical hole with a thread in the movable part with our own hands. On a long bolt we weld a plate - a tool holder. We pass the bolt through a square plate mounted on bearings and screw it into the moving part of the caliper. Along the perimeter of the plate, we will make clamps for the tool holder from bolts.

    Common disadvantages of homemade lathes

    • Low power of the electric motor, which does not allow to achieve sufficient performance of the mini-machine;
    • small spindle diameter, limiting the size of the workpiece;
    • lack of automation, so all settings are displayed by hand;
    • limiting the maximum dimensions of blanks;
    • vibrations due to fragile frame.

    The first video clearly shows the design of the caliper, the second video shows another model of a do-it-yourself homemade lathe: