For modern furniture polishing is not the most suitable surface treatment. In fashion now - a soft sheen of wax or matte - based on shellac - coating. But for many pieces of old furniture, a mirrored sparkling surface is a tribute to style. Therefore, when caring for furniture and restoring it, it is often necessary to renew the old polish, and sometimes - after repair - and apply a new one in the traditional way.
How to polish wood
Polishing is a laborious operation, even for a specialist. Naturally, a beginner may have problems when mastering it. But after practicing and House master can achieve satisfactory results. In any case, it is worth trying to polish a couple of unnecessary pieces of plywood before starting to process furniture.
The old way of surface treatment is used less and less now, and it is not always easy to find the right materials. To achieve a flawless finish, you will need shellac polish and a suitable thinner, as well as powdered pumice and polishing oil. All this can be bought in shops. building materials. In addition, you will need a special primer composition. Like a matte finish solution, shellac polish is applied with a swab made from cotton wool, an old wool sock, and a small piece of fine linen or cotton.
by the most complex view The surface treatment of veneer and solid wood is still polishing. Today, there are many clear varnishes on the market for creating shiny protective coatings. Those who want to upgrade old furniture, should familiarize themselves with the technique of its polishing.
What is better for health
Polishing oil is easily removed with gasoline. However, it is better to do this with a clean cloth. True, you will have to spend more time, but no harm to health.
Precleaning
Polishing will be successful only if the surface of the wood allows it. Mirror shine will only occur on veneer or solid wood that does not have defects. If the product has been treated with a stain, then it should be bleached, and then evenly covered with a stain again. Wherein Color tone should be slightly lighter than before, as polishing darkens the wood a little. There should be no unevenness on the surface. Small dents can be corrected by treating the defective areas with hot steam (using a damp cloth and iron). Protruding notched fibers are cleaned with fine sandpaper (grit 180). In this case, you need to work only in the direction of the wood fibers, so as not to scratch it.
cycle
Good results with preliminary stripping are given by the scraper - if it is impeccably sharpened. It should not have a burr that can scratch the surface of the wood.
In the direction of the wood fibers
The cycles only work in the direction of the wood fibers. If, when scraping, chips are obtained of different thicknesses, then the scraper must be sharpened so that its cutting edge becomes evenly sharp.
veneer polishing
Polishing begins with leveling the surface of the wood. To do this, use a cycle or fine-grained sandpaper.
Primer
The sanded surface should be thoroughly cleaned of wood dust. It is better to do this with a stiff brush. This is the only way to remove dust from the pores of the wood. While the fabric removes only the surface layer of dust. And with the dust remaining in the pores, flawless polishing will no longer work.
A tree that has not been stained sometimes looks pale. It may have some scratches on it. But after applying a layer of primer, the picture changes.
solid base
The primer coating provides uniform hygroscopicity of wood, as it closes the pores at the very surface. At the same time, the tree begins to “play” a little: its color becomes more intense, and it no longer seems pale. These color changes must be taken into account if you want to stain the wood first: the color that the wood acquires as a result of staining will become slightly darker after applying the primer.
The primer is applied in an even layer in the direction of the wood fibers. It should be noted that the coating dries fairly quickly. Therefore, in order for the primer layer not to be too thick, it must be applied as soon as possible, otherwise you will have to remove the excess by grinding, and this is not only an additional, but also a very laborious operation, in which mechanical damage to the tree is possible.
The primer (also called a solid base) is applied in an even layer with a large brush, drawing it in the direction of the wood fibers.
Subsequent grinding
Let the primer dry, i.e. harden. Even if after a while the surface of the wood feels dry to the touch, you need to wait twelve hours before proceeding to the next stage of processing.
Thorough grinding
After applying the primer, the ends of the incised wood fibers may rise and stand upright. They need to be carefully cleaned. If the primer is not applied very evenly, then the surface is smoothed with fine sandpaper (grit 240) or a skein of fine steel wire(000 or 0000). In this case, the movements should be only in the direction of the wood fibers. When sanding with sandpaper, from time to time tap the boss on some hard object and thus shake off the wood dust from the paper. Also, periodically it is necessary to move the paper on the boss, thereby changing the treated area of the abrasive coating to a fresh one. If you are sanding a primed surface with a roll of wire, then make sure that the thin steel threads are across the grain of the wood.
Dust must be carefully removed from the sanded surface, especially after working with a coil of thin steel wire, so that no metal particles remain. Otherwise, after some time they may rust, and this will lead to a change in the color of the polish.
After priming, the irregularities are removed with fine-grained sandpaper or a coil of thin steel wire.
Processing with a mixture of polish and pumice powder
The next processing step is critical. A mixture of liquid polish (diluted with a solvent) and pumice powder in a ratio of 1:1 is applied to the primed surface.
Dilute the polish in a sufficiently large container. Place a smooth plank or plank next to it.
Sprinkle some pumice powder on it. Soak a swab with the diluted polish, lightly dip it in the powder, and apply the resulting paste-like mixture to the wood.
First, the paste is spread on the surface in a wide circular motion, then rubbed, leading the swab across the wood fibers. This achieves filling with pumice powder of all pores and the smallest sections on the surface of the tree.
fine-tuning
The successful completion of this stage of work is a completely flat, smooth surface on which pores are not visible. The next step is to apply a layer of varnish with a swab already without solvent and pumice flour.
On the resulting slightly shiny surface, the remaining irregularities and depressions are clearly visible: they should be refilled with polish and sanded. After that, the surface of the wood must "rest" for at least one day for the coating to harden. If you continue to work too soon, the next layer of polish may violate the integrity of the previous one.
You should also wait one day before correcting errors found after applying a mixture of pumice powder and polish. That is, any applied layer must completely harden, and only after that you can proceed to further polishing.
A coil of thin steel wire is used only for processing a surface coated with a primer or the first layer of polish.
To fill pores, soak a swab in diluted polish and dip it in pumice powder. Then rub the mixture into the wood.
Polishing
After the mixture of polish and pumice powder has hardened, it is treated with a coil of fine steel wire or lightly sanded with 220 grit sandpaper. The dust is then removed.
The part is now ready to be polished. But first, you should slightly soak the swab with a solvent and carefully wipe the surface with it, writing out the “eight” with your hand. The thinner slightly dilutes the previously applied layer of polish and pumice powder, which allows the next layer of polish to "lie" better.
Then, making movements in the form of "eights", the entire surface is covered with varnish diluted with a solvent in a ratio of 1: 1. This layer should dry slightly, after which almost undiluted polish is applied to the surface with a swab, again making movements in the form of "eights". So that the swab does not stick to the surface (this happens when polish is used in a pure or almost pure form), it - the surface - is wiped with a special polishing oil. They take it quite a bit - a few drops, but this is enough for the tampon to easily slide over the surface.
The first layer of polishing is left to dry for 24 hours, then the procedure is repeated.
The elasticity of the tampon
The tampon should be stored in a sealed container between workflows to keep it elastic. If after some time you need a tampon again, then before using it, move the outer layer of tissue so that on the bottom, that is, the working side of the tampon, there is a clean area of \u200b\u200bthis tissue. If the tampon becomes hard despite proper storage, replace it with a new one with a very thin outer layer. Make sure that the fabric on the underside of the tampon is well stretched and there are no wrinkles on it.
Beginners should not be confused by the fact that after applying the polishing oil, "clouds" appear on the surface areas that have just been polished. This is a consequence of the uneven evaporation of the solvent. However, the resulting cloudy spots soon disappear.
polish varnished wood
Only with skillful careful polishing does the surface become smooth and mirror-like.
Final polishing step
A good polished finish consists of three or four coats, but even two coats give a satisfactory result if preparatory work were performed correctly.
Before applying the final layer of polish, the previous one is lightly wiped with a solvent. This allows the new layer to take hold.
Then, as before, a few drops of polishing oil are applied to the surface or directly to the swab soaked in polish. The swab is worked until it becomes dry. In this case, the pressure should be minimal.
In conclusion, the swab is impregnated with a small amount of solvent and the surface is treated with sliding movements until it becomes transparently shiny. This completes the polishing process. Now a dense film covers the surface of the furniture, which will facilitate its care and protect the wood.
But it is still necessary to remove the thinnest layer of polishing oil from the surface. This should be done no earlier than 24 hours after applying the last layer of polish. The oil is removed with a clean swab. At the same time, the outer layer of the tampon is constantly shifted so that the still uncontaminated areas of the fabric are saturated with oil.
The polishing system is designed for finishing turning works, toys, handicrafts, etc.. Because the polishing process adds nothing to the surface of the wood, with the exception of a thin layer of carnauba wax - non-toxic edible substance - wood polishing is especially good choice for toys or utensils intended for food storage.
This system consists of three circles of different density, two abrasive pastes and carnauba wax. Can be bought as full set and each element individually. Wood polishing wheels are like metal polishing wheels, but softer and looser so as not to blur the details. The ease of use, combined with the brilliance it produces, makes it a particularly elegant solution to many finishing dilemmas. The wheels have leather flanges and can be mounted on stationary engines, lathes, or multi-tasking machines. Flange hole diameter 8.5mm - can be mounted on a smooth shaft or specialized holders. And, although the system was designed for polishing small items, it can be adapted to large surfaces such as countertops by feeding it with a sander/polisher.
Polishing set for lathe consists of:
1. Rigid cotton circle 1 with a diameter of 150mm and a thickness of 20mm. Reinforced leather flange with a diameter of 90mm
2. Cotton circle 2 of medium hardness with a diameter of 150mm and a thickness of 30mm. Leather flange diameter 50mm
3. Soft cotton circle 3 with a diameter of 150mm and a thickness of 20mm. Leather flange diameter 50mm
4. Polishing paste 1 for pre-sanding. Bar 120mm x 40mm x 28mm. Weight 150g
5. Polishing paste 2 for finishing. Bar 120mm x 40mm x 28mm. Weight 150g
6. Carnauba wax for final polishing. Bar f 65mm x 30mm. Weight 70g
All items can be purchased separately.
carnauba wax- Wax of plant origin, produced from the leaves of palm trees in Brazil. This wax is completely digestible - it is absolutely harmless and hypoallergenic. Melting point approximately 80-90°C (it is the most refractory of all natural waxes).
Application:
1. Install disc 1. Apply paste 1 liberally.
2. Set the rotation speed from 800rpm to 1300rpm. The softer the wood, the slower.
3. Polish the product. As needed, renew the paste on the circle. The goal is to achieve an even matte finish.
4. Install disc 2. Apply paste 2 liberally.
5. Repeat polishing as with the first disc
6. For high gloss, install disc 3 and apply wax sparingly (!) Excess wax can make polishing difficult!
Safety instructions:
Be sure to use eye and respiratory protection! When using the polishing system, the threads of cotton and paste can fly off at high speed!
When using the polishing pads for the first time, sand the unwanted piece of wood with uneven edges to remove loose threads.
Hold the workpiece while pressing. Always hold the workpiece IN THE DIRECTION OF ROTATION! Polishing TOGETHER TO THE CIRCLE MAY CAUSE INJURY!
Recommendations:
Surface cleanliness is essential to the successful application of a polishing system. The better sanded, the higher the gloss. The minimum grain is P240, preferably higher. You should also pay attention to the presence of scuffs, defects or other damage. When polished, these defects will be especially visible! If you wish, you can pre-treat with oil. After intermediate grinding is required and polishing can begin.
Good luck in job
In the manufacture of wood products, the question often arises: “How to polish a tree?” using polishing to give a protective coating. Most often, polishing is used in the decoration of furniture and handicrafts. The polished surface preserves the texture of the wood and gives the product a beautiful finish. appearance.
Application of polishing for finishing
For finishing, several methods are used for which, substances are used:
- varnish;
- drying oil;
- wax paste.
When finishing wood products, when varnish is used for polishing, a protective layer, which gives the surface a marketable appearance. The polishing process consists in applying a special composition of polish containing three times less resin than in varnish. The coating formed on the wood has a transparent structure and a glossy tint.
When choosing a finishing and polishing method, the type of wood must be taken into account. For the manufacture of furniture, the most suitable types of wood:
- mahogany;
- birch;
- pears;
- boxwood;
- maple;
- apple trees.
Also widely used, but quite laborious in the processing of the breed:
- oak;
- pines.
Products used to polish wood
For polishing wood in commercial enterprises, a large list of various finishing substances is offered:
- Shellac varnish - used for furniture finishing.
- Alkyd varnish - used to coat parquet.
- Acrylic varnish - used for processing wood products.
- Polyurethane varnish - used to protect wooden products from precipitation.
- Nitrolak - used for processing wooden products.
You can make a polish for polishing wood at home using certain substances:
- shellac resin - 60 g;
- ethyl alcohol 90 * - 500 ml.
The manufacturing process is quite simple. IN glass containers the resin is poured and poured with alcohol, mixed well, closed with a tight lid and infused until the resin is completely dissolved. Further, the composition is filtered and used for its intended purpose for polishing wooden products.
Polishing technology
The process of polishing wood is carried out in several stages:
- surface grinding;
- soil application;
- polishing;
- polishing.
Surface grinding
The sanding process is not particularly difficult, but it takes a lot of time to give the tree the desired look. The surface of the wood intended for finishing should not have burrs, chips, cracks and other irregularities. To do this, the tree is processed in 3 stages:
- sandpaper No. 46-60;
- sandpaper No. 80-100;
- sandpaper No. 140-170,
until the surface is smooth and glossy.
Grinding is done with a wooden block wrapped with sandpaper along the wood fibers. After grinding, the surface is wiped with a dry clean rag, moistened with water and wiped with a dry rag again. A pause is maintained until complete drying for 2 hours and processed with sandpaper No. 120-140 until the remaining wood fibers are completely removed. If necessary, the operation is repeated several times until the wood is given a glossy finish.
Ground application
The priming process is carried out using a special swab by applying varnish to wooden surface. The tampon must be made in without fail from linen fabric (does not leave fabric villi).
All workflows are performed in the following sequence:
- the swab is impregnated with varnish and with its help the entire surface of the wood is processed until a homogeneous coating is formed;
- a pause is maintained until the varnish is completely dry, cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper and wiped with a clean, dry rag;
- an additional 2 coats of varnish are applied;
- a composition is being prepared, consisting of 1 hour polish and 1 hour varnish, which covers the entire surface;
- wood is dried for 2 days.
Polishing
The polishing process consists in applying polish to the wood and is performed in the following sequence:
- a small amount of vegetable oil is applied to the linen swab for better gliding over the treated surface;
- with a swab moistened with polish, the entire surface is gently wiped;
- the processing operation is carried out 3 times with pauses after applying each layer until the polish is completely dry;
- the wood is processed with fine-grained sandpaper and wiped with a dry rag (after each time the varnish is applied).
Polishing
In order to polish the wood to an ideal state, work operations are carried out several times until the desired result is achieved.
The following work is being done:
- the tree is processed with fine-grained sandpaper dipped in vegetable oil;
- a small amount of vegetable oil and polish is applied to the swab and the entire surface is treated (the operation is repeated several times).
When carrying out polishing operations, when varnish or polish is used, it is necessary to observe all technological process to create a durable, even, glossy wood finish. If you have certain skills and appropriate substances, you can finish wooden products at home.
Painting wood with varnish with your own hands is the final operation in wood processing, similar to the final touch when creating a picture. Glossy, smooth and radiant surface "sounds" very special.
The color becomes deeper, the pattern is more visible, the perfection of the product, its beauty is emphasized, the safety of the product is ensured. long time. What paints and varnishes can be used on wood, when finishing furniture.
Wood is a material used for many purposes: from construction to the manufacture of furniture, souvenirs and dishes. However, structures and wood products can not lose their properties and attractiveness for a long time only if they are well protected from harmful factors.
Wood is affected by:
- Dampness.
- Ultraviolet.
- Fire.
- Various insect pests.
Tip: Logs, boards, wooden details for the assembly of furniture, laying the floor should be pre-treated with varnishes. This will not only help preserve the attractiveness of wood, but also emphasize its natural color or give the product a different shade.
After application, wood varnish on the surface should create a hard film that protects the tree for the entire period of operation. Before choosing paints and varnishes for wood (see Which paint is better to paint wood: making a choice), you need to determine the desired composition - they are all designed for specific tasks.
At the same time, varnishes, depending on the proportion of oil and resin in them, can be:
- oily, which are divided into:
- fatty;
- bold;
- skinny.
Such coatings have a relatively short shelf life, and after thickening they become unusable. Oil varnishes are used for applying them to wooden floors.
Modern varnishes have a synthetic base and additives that protect wood from ultraviolet radiation. Before application, they are diluted with water or a solvent.
- Phenolic and alkyd. To achieve saturation of tone, these materials can be applied several times. In doing so, they:
- wear-resistant;
- strong enough;
- are not exposed to the weather.
Varnish is selected depending on the purpose of the treated surface:
- internal work should be carried out only with compounds that are safe for health;
- outdoor - with good resistance to impact environment.
- Acrylic. These are water-soluble, universal formulations. The presence of additives, allows you to protect surfaces from discoloration from sunlight, such a coating can:
- apply to logs and beams during the construction of facades and fences;
- apply to cover ceilings and walls made of wood, doors (see How to paint a door: we select an option). Their difference from other coatings is a lower consumption per unit area.
- Urethane-alkyd or yacht. Used to treat a wide variety of wooden surfaces, which can be:
- furniture;
- floors;
- railing;
- all kinds of interior details.
Such a coating forms a quick-drying and high-strength layer on the surface.
In appearance, varnishes are:
- Glossy.
- Semi-gloss.
- Matte.
Instructions for choosing a varnish suggests taking into account its features.
The material must be:
- wear resistance. Varnish should be selected depending on the level of expected load and the purpose of the surface. With a small load, it is enough to use ordinary varnish, and for floor covering you will need a varnish with increased wear resistance.
- Smell. Outdoor work can be carried out with varnishes with any smell, including harsh and heavy, which have polyester, acrylic and polyurethane compounds. Internal work it is advisable to carry out odorless varnishes made on a water basis.
- fire safety. If the surface is exposed high temperatures with a high risk of fire, a heat-resistant varnish is selected.
- The number of components in the composition. Lacquers are produced one- and two-component. After applying a one-component varnish, a protective film obtained by evaporating the solvent and drying its residues. Formation of a film from a two-component composition is different:
- solvent and hardener begin to enter into a chemical reaction;
- the protective layer is more reliable.
How to polish wooden surfaces after varnishing
Tip: To give a wooden lacquered surface the look of glass, polish the lacquer. Lacquer coating does not give the expected effect. All the villi of the tree smoothed by grinding will rise from the varnish and disrupt the appearance of the product.
There are several ways to give a mirror finish to a wooden surface with your own hands.
The most famous of them:
- Lacquering. In this process, all micropores are filled with varnish, which will not allow a new pile to appear. The resulting film will become resistant to water and dust, and the surface will get a deeper and richer pattern. Processing is carried out with a cotton swab, pre-wrapped in a clean canvas cloth that will not leave lint on the surface to be treated.
- Wax coating. This is not a complicated process that you can do yourself at home. After processing with wax mastic, the natural texture of wood will become more clearly manifested, visually the surface will become soft and velvety. This method is great for hardwoods:
- ash;
- walnut;
- oak.
To improve the effect on soft wood species: birch, alder, linden, wood must first be tinted.
When waxing, the spaces between the hairs of the wood are carefully filled until the surface is sufficiently smooth, after which varnish is applied.
- Polishing. This technology allows you to create the most beautiful texture, keeping the pattern of the tree. The resulting surface resembles a mirror.
Tip: Do not polish wood with a large texture.
How to wax wood
Waxing technology is as follows:
- Wood, previously cleaned of lint by sanding, is covered with a small layer of mastic.
- After drying, the surface is wiped with a soft cloth against wood fibers.
Tip: After applying one layer, you need to check the entire plane. Existing pores and cracks must be filled with wax. The surface must have a smooth appearance.
- The floor covering or product is kept warm for two hours.
- The second layer of mastic is applied with a soft rag, gradually increasing the pressure on the surface, it should be smooth and matte.
- Paints, varnishes for wood based on shellac, applied in a thin layer, will give the polished surface a final look.
The disadvantage of this method is low resistance to moisture, even a drop of water leaves its mark.
How to varnish the surface
Works are carried out with shellac or oil varnish.
When applied with the first composition:
- The varnish is applied in two thick layers. In this case, all the irregularities are well filled with the composition.
- All lacquer coating is removed with sanding materials. The varnish remains only in cracks and pores.
- The second layer is applied. This is considered a pre-priming of the surface.
- Dust is carefully removed.
- The third, thinnest layer of varnish is applied and left indoors for two days.
Tip: After applying this layer of varnish, it is impossible for dust to fall on it.
- One or two coats of top coat are applied.
It is necessary to ensure that there are no smudges on the surface, which subsequently form stains. This can be avoided by applying a very thin layer of varnish, without destroying the film formed after the previous operation. Everything is done quickly, evenly, efficiently, without stopping.
Tip: When applying oil varnish, it must be taken into account that the composition dries for a long time.
For priming with oil varnish, a solution of:
- Varnish -200 grams.
- Water - one liter.
Liquid varnish is applied with a thick brush on the dried and carefully polished surface. When the solution thickens, turpentine is added. The brush should be moved evenly, without sudden movements, the excess coating is removed. Do not allow the formation of bubbles when moving the brush.
How to polish the surface
The order of the process is as follows:
- The surface is primed in three layers of varnish. After applying the first layer, grinding is performed and dust is carefully removed. After that, two layers of varnish are applied to the dried surface.
- A tampon is used for polishing, polish is applied in a thin layer. The product is dried and polished grinder or abrasive materials. This process is quite long, it is better to use technology for this. Several layers of varnish are applied, each of them is dried and polished. As a result, the surface acquires a good gloss. To prevent sticking of the tampon, two drops of oil are added during the work.
- The product is polished with polish, to which a small amount of oil is added, as in the photo.
The surface is rubbed with a swab until the desired shine is obtained. So that the previous layers do not dissolve, oil is added, at the rate of two drops per 10 cm². The process is repeated several times. Each layer of the coating is wiped with a rag, which is pre-impregnated with a solution of polish with water.
In order for the price of work to be minimal, and the quality of the applied coating to be good, it is necessary to follow the technology and sequence of operations, and apply the required number of layers. How to properly apply paints, varnishes on wood, and further care for the product shows the video in this article.
Despite the fashion, lacquered furniture has been and remains in great demand due to its beauty and presentability. But it has a significant drawback - it is difficult to clean from dirt, so stains must be removed as they form. Furniture polish gives wood products an updated look. It also restores the polishing of furniture at home, and interior items again acquire a well-groomed appearance.
Lacquered furniture has a number of negative qualities:
- Dust quickly settles on it;
- There are stains from the hands;
- The surface of polished products is easily scratched and cracked.
Polished furniture needs special care, if it is not followed, serious flaws may appear. In order for interior items to serve for a long time and retain their appearance, you need to pay attention to factors that harm lacquered products:
- Excessive dryness of wood;
- High humidity;
- Direct sunlight on the wood;
- Large accumulation of dust;
- Proximity to heaters.
All this spoils the appearance of polished wood. Furniture becomes unattractive, quickly ages, fades in the sun, deforms. Spots and cracks appear on the varnish layer. To avoid damage wooden facade, use polishes for furniture. The right tool will extend the life of polished furniture. How to restore polish for each look wooden furniture, will help to find out more detailed information about each of them.
Varieties
To effectively polish furniture, you need to choose the right product for a glossy surface, which will protect it from minor damage, scratches and chips. Properly applied to the surface of the furniture, the polish gives it a shine, evens out the shade and prevents the accumulation of dust. With regular use, the tool helps to restore the beauty inherent in the new product, as well as protect it from the negative effects of the environment. Car polish and conventional wood polishes differ in their action - some with a tinting effect, others - giving shine. Therefore, choosing them, you need to familiarize yourself with each type.
Furniture polish with wax
To on lacquered furniture scratches were not visible, and also a shine appeared on the surface, wax-based products are used that reliably protect the wood from damage, and also hide minor defects. The advantage of wax-based polishes is the long-term effect of the product.
It is rarely possible to cover wood with a composition, since the film keeps on it for a long time, while maintaining powerful protective properties. The negative quality of the wax composition is that traces of any touch are visible on the surface polished by it.
Tinting compositions
If minor damage and faded spots are visible on polished furniture, a polish with tinting agents is required. This composition contains antistatic components, they repel dust from the treated surface and it retains a fresh look for a long time. When using a tinting polish, the wood does not need to be varnished, as the product itself will make it bright and well-groomed. Polishing furniture with such a tool is equivalent to painting. As a result, the restored wooden surface will acquire a glossy appearance. A tool that masks scratches, as well as preventing their appearance on the facade of the headset.
If polished furniture is covered with scratches, it is recommended to use wax-based compounds. This component of the polish fills in minor damage, making them invisible. And the thick film that appears after applying the product prevents scratches on the furniture.
Compositions for varnished wood products
Such means for polishing furniture belong to a separate group. The fact is that if there is a varnish layer on interior items, they cannot be covered with universal compounds that dry the surface. In this case, the polishing liquid is required to create additional protection- a strong film over a varnish layer. Then directly varnishing becomes not needed.
Industrial
The most famous furniture polishes:
- Pronto - the tool cleans stains from furniture well, and also masks scratches on its surface;
- Chirton is a wax-based product that removes dust and dirt from the wood surface well, improves its structure;
- Emsal - quickly copes with dust, as well as stains from water and grease. Due to the presence of natural oils in the composition of the polish, it refreshes the color of the wood, giving it a natural shine;
- Luxus - cleans the surface of wooden furniture, gives it a neat, well-groomed look;
- Mebelux - designed to care for wooden surfaces, extending their service life.
These, as well as other types of polish, can be bought at a hardware store or in the market.
Folk remedies
In addition to industrial compositions, it is permissible to cover wooden sets folk remedies. They also carefully care for the surface, eliminating scratches and minor damage. They are considered the best.
potato tubers
To polish the wood, take 1 tuber, clean it and cut it in half. For this, it is advisable to take a large potato. Then we draw it along the facade of the wood, which needs to be polished. After that, dry the headset with a rag. Cleaning furniture should not be done with a damp cloth or sponge, as this will remove the gloss and erase the polish. Lacquered interior items cannot be cleaned with soapy water, it spoils the surface of the product.
We cut potatoes
We process the coating
Wipe with a dry cloth
Burdock oil
To restore polished furniture, you need to apply oil to a cotton wool or soft cloth, and then gently wipe the wood. Upon completion of work, the treated surface is wiped with a flannel patch.
Choosing a burdock
Vegetable oil and flour
Polish the wooden furniture pieces with flour and oil. The products must be mixed in the same proportion, and then distributed over the surface of the furniture with a rag. This tool polishes the surface of scratched furniture well, which, after processing, acquires a well-groomed appearance and gloss.
We combine the ingredients
Wipe the surface
table vinegar
If the headset is heavily soiled, it can be treated with vinegar. It will give shine to glossy furniture, and mask damage. After using vinegar, as a rule, the room must be ventilated so that the unpleasant smell stops “chasing” the headset.
Wiping furniture with vinegar
We ventilate the room
Sauerkraut pickle
Furniture is wiped with a rag soaked in brine. The stronger the brine, the better it polishes the surface. That's not all folk ways restoring the base of wooden furniture. But such recipes are considered the most effective, they retain the result for a long time, are safe and affordable.
How to apply
Any store composition, whether it is a coloring surface or restoring shine, is applied over certain rules, non-compliance with which will spoil the furniture. To restore polishing, the composition is applied to a dry surface, previously cleaned of contaminants. Aerosol polish should be sprayed evenly.
At the same time, the distance from the cylinder to the furniture is 30 cm, which will avoid the formation of drops. Do not immediately apply a thick layer of polish, it is better to wait until the first is completely dry, then carefully apply the second.
Polishes in the form of a cream are squeezed onto a cloth or napkin, after which they are rubbed into the wood until it becomes monophonic and shiny. Before application, the surface must be clean and dry so that the product is evenly distributed and completely absorbed. How often you should use a cream or spray depends on the brand of the product, the surface of the furniture and the function of the composition.
Professionals advise treating wood with polish 1-2 times a month. This applies to cabinets, cabinets, chests of drawers and other interior items. But it is recommended to cover the countertop with the agent every week, since this piece of furniture is used more often than others. If regular care is neglected, restoration may be necessary.
How to choose
In order for the polish to give a noticeable result, you need to know additional selection criteria. This will help you choose a product that is not only ideal for a particular coating, but also does not cause discomfort to the person using it. If there is no silicone in the polish, then this product can cover not only a wooden surface, but also marble, plastic, glass and ceramics.
As a rule, conscientious manufacturers care about the convenience of potential consumers and make packaging with polish in the form of sprays, aerosols and creams that are easy to apply, dose, and then tightly close until the next use. The popularity of the product can speak about the quality. In order to verify the authenticity of advertising, you can interview friends who have already used the polish. If the polish is of poor quality, it will be immediately noticeable.
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