Means for daily care of parquet boards. How to choose a parquet board: basic recommendations

Parquet board - multilayer material based on natural wood, suitable for the device of a practical, warm, natural floor. Helps extend service life proper care behind the parquet board in compliance with the recommendations of experts and the use of tools specially designed for this purpose.

Like any other coating, parquet needs to be looked after, and especially carefully.

General care means the delicate operation of the floor based on the parquet board, protecting it from moisture, mechanical damage and regular cleaning in compliance with the manufacturer's requirements.

Simple measures will help protect the coating from scratches, chips and bald spots. So, for example, furniture legs will not scratch the coating if you stick small felt pads on them. If it is furniture on moving rollers, special plastic rugs made of transparent materials will help save the day.

There are even special design nozzles with felt, which, if desired or necessary, can be easily removed.

Considering that parquet made of natural wood is subject to the abrasive action of sand brought into the room from the street, it is necessary to think over the arrangement of the protective zone. Again, specialized mats of two types are suitable:

  • hard;
  • soft.

The former will collect solid particles, the latter will prevent liquid dirt from spreading across the floor in bad weather.

As for care, for general cleaning a soft brush or a vacuum cleaner with a retractable brush that cannot scratch the coating will suffice. Periodically it is necessary to carry out wet cleaning using a soft cloth slightly moistened with water.

In no case should the coating be flooded with water, even if there are heavily contaminated areas. They are used to remove special means, which are discussed in more detail below.

Oil-wax coating of the board - features of operation and care

To properly care for parquet, you need to know exactly what products were used for it. finishing. If we are talking about oil-wax compositions, then there are certain nuances. Such a coating, when applied to the surface of the board, does not form a film, but is only absorbed by the pores of the wood, protecting it from moisture and dirt.

If it is necessary to restore a parquet board with such a layer of protection, they grind the areas that require it, and then re-treat with oil, repeating the procedure several times.

Soap solutions are best suited for wet cleaning of oil-wax impregnated floors. The rag should not be too wet, in addition, it is recommended to move it parallel to the fibers of the tree.

Always before cleaning any surface, you need to study the methods and means of cleaning it.

Wet cleaning is carried out infrequently, but only as needed. In order for the floor to dry completely after treatment, it is left for at least half an hour, after which it is polished using universal parquet care products to enhance the protective properties and give the coating an aesthetic appearance.

The greater the load on the parquet board or parquet flooring, the more often it will need to be updated. So, for example, if we are talking about a public building, then reconstruction will be needed at least once every six months. In apartments and private houses, where the coating is carefully monitored, following the recommendations for maintenance and operation, it will be enough to update once a year and even less often.

Wax floor - features of use and care

Wax flooring imposes certain obligations on its care. To understand how to care for parquet under a protective layer of wax, you need to know about its properties to respond to certain tests during operation. So, for example, wet cleaning of the coating will not give the desired effect due to the surface that repels any moisture. That is why only dry cleaning with the help of special products based on wax or solvent, if necessary, will be effective.

Soap solutions containing alkali are unacceptable. Their contact with the wax treated coating will change its color range.

The more carefully you maintain and clean the surface, the longer it will last and retain its attractive appearance.

Prevention for floors with wax and oil coating

Preventive maintenance of the floor depends on the period and intensity of its operation. In the first year after installation, the coating is treated every three months in the following order:

  • clean;
  • wipe with a damp cloth;
  • give time to dry;
  • impregnated with oil;
  • remove excess oil with a napkin;
  • give time to dry (days);
  • apply wax for protection.

With the onset of the next year, the frequency of processing is reduced and carried out as needed.

Too frequent cleaning of the floor can also adversely affect the condition of the parquet surface.

Lacquered surfaces - how to care properly?

To prolong the life of your lacquered parquet, you also need to follow certain care and preventive maintenance requirements. Regardless of the durability of the parquet wood and the quality of the parquet varnish used for its processing, over time the surface will wear out, lose its aesthetic appearance due to cracks, chips, abrasions.

Prevention is just as important as routine parquet cleaning.

Preventive measures can also be considered as maintenance of parquet, extending its service life. So, for example, to restore the lost gloss of the surface and remove small spots, a special “freshener” composition is suitable. Polishing the surface at least once every few months will enhance its protection against moisture.

A complete renovation of such a floor is carried out no earlier than 12 years after active use with sanding, sanding and re-treatment with varnish mixtures. It is possible that restoration will be required earlier if there was no one and no time to properly care for the parquet board, for example, in public buildings.

What products are used to maintain wood floors?

Especially for the care and restoration of parquet and parquet boards, tools and preparations have been developed that simplify the task, but most importantly - safe for natural wood. When it comes to washing solutions, they are called cleaners. Just like classic household chemicals, they are sold in a concentrated form. The compositions do not harm the parquet, help to clean it efficiently without smudges and streaks. Below are the most famous of them.

One of the most popular parquet care products

It is believed that the market leader in the care of parquet, both at home and in public areas of American production called Aqua Sport Wood Flor Cleaner. It is followed by the Spanish analogue of Rubi, the Ukrainian anti-grease stains on wood Glutoclean Pufas and the German concentrate, including wax for polishing the surface - Thomas Floor Pro, practically do not lag behind.

The choice in favor of the usual soap solution available for each implies the observance of some subtleties in the process of use. Soap should be low in alkali, liquid, diluted with water. A rag for wet cleaning must be soft, with an elastic pile. Ideal Solution- special rags made of microfiber or felt with a high level of absorbency.

It is possible to simplify the care of parquet coated with varnish or oil as much as possible by following the general tips:

  1. You need to wash the floor only parallel to the fibers (as already mentioned above).
  2. Pots with plants should not be placed on the floor, not only because of the fear of getting it dirty, but also because of the accumulation of condensate under it.
  3. Protective nozzles for furniture, pet "socks" with claws, rugs - all this will protect the coating.
  4. The humidity level in the room should be maintained in the range of 30 to 60%.
  5. The temperature level is 20-24 degrees Celsius.
  6. For cleaning and restoration, use only specialized preparations, without trying to resort to folk methods.

Simple but important nuance- house shoes not only for animals, but also for people. These should be soft, non-scratching slippers without heels.

Don't forget to stock up on slippers for guests

Simple restorative actions - how are they carried out?

If, with all the efforts, it was not possible to protect the parquet, you need to move on to radical measures. Chips and scratches, numerous abrasions and stains, especially perennial, remove with local repair a separate section is not always possible.

In cases where nothing helps, looping will be the solution. This procedure is effective and uncomplicated. It is carried out no more than a few times during the entire period of operation of the coating. The number of cycles allowed for parquet depends on the quality and type of wood and the thickness of the face layer. The largest amount of allowable scraping is 7 times, the smallest is 1 time.

For processing, special machines are used that delicately remove a few millimeters of the damaged layer. They are easier to rent than to buy. As an option, it is worth considering ordering the services of specialists, in whose arsenal there is the equipment, tools necessary for grinding and surface treatment, as well as experience, skills and a desire to return the coating original view within the stipulated time.

Cycling is a slow and costly procedure, so it’s better not to bring the floor to such a state and take good care of it in advance

Specialists can also advise on how to cover the parquet board and how to prolong its use after repair, depending on the level of loads, they will help you learn how to independently cope with minor repairs to the floor, using varnish, oil, special mixtures based on parquet chips and glue for solving problems with dents and scratches.

In conclusion, we note that proper and careful maintenance with periodic renewal of the parquet floor in time will extend its service life by several decades.

From this article you will learn:

  • What are the ways of laying a parquet board?
  • How to lay parquet board yourself

Repairs in Moscow must be taken seriously. It is necessary to clearly define the type floor covering which would be to your liking.

Using parquet as flooring is not only good way declare their wealth and status. It is also an opportunity to demonstrate to others that you have excellent taste. In addition, parquet as a coating is very reliable, environmentally friendly and has a long service life. Previously, in order to lay parquet, it was necessary to work hard, while possessing certain skills. Now, thanks to the appearance of a massive parquet board, everything has become somewhat easier. If you follow the recommendations of experts, then the process of laying it will not be too difficult for you. Today we will talk about how to lay a parquet board.

At the moment, there are two types of parquet boards on sale: massive and multi-layered. The difference between them is in the way they are made.

  • massive parquet boards are made from different types of wood, both deciduous and coniferous. But to create it, a single piece of wood is taken. Grooves and ridges are made along the ends of the board.
  • In the manufacture multilayer Several types of wood are used in parquet boards, each with its own advantages. Thanks to this combination, a parquet board with high performance is obtained at the output. So, the top layer of parquet is made from solid and precious woods, because it will be “responsible” for the appearance of the floor. The middle layer of the plates is placed at an angle of 90 degrees to the top, using soft wood. The purpose of this layer is to act as a connecting element both for this particular panel and for its neighbors. The material for the bottom layer is plywood, as well as pine or spruce lamellas up to 4 mm thick.

The parquet board for laying goes on sale only after applying a special coating and impregnation to it, which protects it from rotting and the formation of fungus. Keep in mind: whether the board is multi-layered or massive, its service life depends not only on the production technology and storage rules, but also on the correct installation. You cannot influence the first and second in any way, but the third point can be easily controlled. Or even do the laying of the parquet board yourself.

But for such a flooring to be durable and serve you for a long time, it is not enough to be able to work well with your hands. It is necessary to carry out a certain kind preparatory work. It is also necessary to strictly comply with all conditions technological process. What points should be paid attention to first of all?

  • Firstly, inspect the base on which the parquet board will be laid. Invalid different kind cracks, crevices and depressions. The base must necessarily be flat and solid, and also without a significant difference in height. 2 mm per running meter is the maximum that can be allowed. A base that does not meet the requirements should be repaired or completely remade.
  • Secondly, the parquet board should "adapt" to your apartment - more precisely, to its microclimate. Therefore, after acquiring a board, it is not recommended to immediately begin work on laying it. Wait at least two days.
  • Thirdly, an important condition for the successful laying of parquet boards is the level of humidity in the room. High humidity adversely affects this material, and therefore you should not lay parquet in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen.
  • Fourth, again about humidity. During operation, it is desirable to observe a certain level of it (from 35 to 65 percent). The temperature must be at least 18 degrees Celsius. Compliance with these conditions will allow the coating to become more durable and increase its service life.
  • And the last by list, but not by value. When laying a parquet board, in no case should you forget about the substrate and waterproofing. Moreover, the features of the premises and the foundation do not play a role here, this must be done in any case.


In addition one little advice: do not lay the parquet board perpendicular to the rays of light. In this case, shadows will be clearly visible at the joints.

How to lay parquet board in different ways

Well-known manufacturing companies (Barlinek, Tarkett, Kahrs and others) are constantly trying to improve their products. Moreover, they work not only on the appearance of products, but also on methods that can significantly facilitate the installation process. All new lock systems are produced. There are several main types:

  1. A connection considered classic when the spikes enter the grooves.
  2. The planks are connected at an angle of 10-30 degrees, after which, by pressing the plates, they are fastened together.
  3. This is a volumetric fixation system. There are several types of them, names and basic characteristics may not coincide, but the principle of connecting elements is the same. A “tongue” made of dense PVC or aluminum is built into the end lock. Otherwise, it may just be an additional insert. Be that as it may, but thanks to such a fixation, the entire hitch becomes more rigid and durable, and the service life of the parquet increases. Also, this system prevents the divergence of the slats due to seasonal changes in the environment.


Depending on which locking system is present on the products, the method of laying parquet boards is also chosen. When purchasing material for flooring, be sure to check if it is available detailed instructions for installation. If the product is of high quality, it must be attached to the packaging.

How to assemble a multi-layer wooden coating?

There are several methods most popular:

  • Laying parquet boards on logs.
  • Fastening with nails.
  • Laying on a rough wooden floor.
  • glue method.
  • A floating method in which parquet boards are connected with a lock.

The locking system has recently been used most often. This method of laying parquet boards is convenient for both large and small rooms. Glue, on the contrary, is used less and less in such works. The fact is that laying parquet in this way is a very laborious work, taking a lot of time and requiring perseverance.

Massive parquet is attached to subfloor mostly with nails. But this method is gradually becoming a thing of the past. If you put parquet boards on logs, the distance between the latter should not exceed 30-40 cm, and this is not very profitable financially. And the process itself is also quite laborious. But one of the advantages of the floating method of laying parquet boards is that all the work can be done by hand.

To decide which styling method is best for you, let's take a closer look at some of them.

floating way

Many people have a poor idea of ​​how to lay a parquet board on a concrete floor using this method. Let's sort it out in order. Initially, plywood sheets 20 mm thick are rigidly attached to the floor. A waterproofing is placed on top, which can be used as polyethylene in 200 microns. It is necessary that the entire surface be covered with waterproofing. To do this, polyethylene is overlapped, with an overlap of 15-20 cm. The joints are glued with tape. The film should also go onto the walls - by about 10-15 cm. Dense polyethylene foam, polystyrene foam or cork mats should be placed on top of the waterproofing. In the first case, the substrate, as well as waterproofing, is overlapped and glued with adhesive tape. In the second and third mats should be placed end to end, but apart.

Sheets of plywood should also be laid apart, leaving a distance of up to 5 mm between them. From the walls should be 10-15 mm. Parquet floors in a room can be installed in two ways: parallel and diagonal. In the latter case, the material will need a little more. Before you start laying parquet boards, make all the necessary calculations: how much material is needed, which direction will be optimal. It is necessary to plan everything so that the plates in the last row do not seem too narrow compared to the rest. Connect parquet boards with spikes and grooves intended for them. Remember that between the wall and the parquet you need to leave a distance for the expansion of the material by 1.5-3 cm.

When laying the first row of boards, remove the spikes from them directed towards the wall. Direct the spike of the next die at an acute angle into the groove of the previous one, lay the board on the base and use a hammer (through the bar!) to achieve a tight connection with the neighbor. Place wedges between the first row and the wall.

When laying the second row of parquet boards, offset the end seams by a third of the length of the plank. This is called side-by-side mounting. To start, make the first board in the second row shorter by 1/3. Assemble the row completely, then dock with the first. Also, insert the spikes of the boards into the grooves at an acute angle and seal the joint by tapping it through the bar with a hammer.

By the way, the step of the run can be chosen at your discretion. But if you decide to make it just like that, then the first board in the third row needs to be shortened already by 2/3 of the length. In the fourth row, all the dies are of their original size. In the future, follow the same cycle of laying parquet boards.

Most likely, you will have to saw off the last row of dies to the desired width. When doing this, do not forget to leave a distance between the parquet and the wall. After that, remove the wedges and attach the skirting boards, under which the expansion gaps will not be visible.

One important nuance. For greater strength of the joints, the grooves between the boards can be glued. But, on the other hand, if you need to replace one of the boards, this will cause certain difficulties.

Adhesive

With this method of laying parquet boards, you first need to firmly screw moisture-resistant plywood to the screed. Then, with a notched trowel, glue is applied to it, preferably two-component polyurethane. When working with glue, keep in mind that it is toxic, although it is completely safe for humans after drying. Small sheets of the substrate are laid apart on a concrete base. The distance between them and the walls should be no more than 5 mm. Further, all parquet boards are planted on the glue - according to the same technology as with the floating laying method.


Before starting work, it is best to draw a diagram, according to which in the future you will glue parquet boards to plywood. The difference from the previous laying method is that the boards are not assembled in rows, but are joined one at a time. Glue must be applied both to plywood and to dies, the grooves at the ends of the boards must also be filled with this composition.

Then we act according to the principle described earlier: we attach the board with the help of a lock to the previous one, align and compact it with a hammer and a wooden block. We additionally strengthen the panels with pneumatic nails in the groove, but in such a way as not to interfere with the connection. Glue will appear on the surface, it should be removed immediately. We fill the distance between the walls and the parquet with cork. After that, we prime the entire surface of the floor, cover it with oil and wax or varnish. We attach skirting boards along the walls.

This method of laying parquet boards is mainly used for rooms with a large area.

With fasteners

How to properly lay a parquet board using this method? As with floating laying, waterproofing and insulation are required concrete screed. Boards are connected in the same way. The only difference is that you can put dies with a thickness of more than 20 mm. It is permissible to fix the parquet both to the wooden base lying on the logs, and to the logs themselves. If you decide to use the latter option, then keep in mind: the logs must be wide enough so that the joints of the parquet boards can easily fit in their middle. Optimal Distance between lags - from 30 to 40 cm.


They are fastened to the concrete base through the insulation strictly horizontally, using self-tapping screws with dowels. The dies are connected to the lags with nails or self-tapping screws, the length of which exceeds the thickness of the boards by 2-2.5 times. So that nothing interferes with the installation, they must be installed in the grooves of the boards at an angle of 45 degrees.

How to lay a parquet board with your own hands

To work, you need to have the following available:

  1. Waterproofing film with a thickness of 200 microns.
  2. Combined or coniferous PE substrate, 2-3 mm thick. Another one will do, but the manufacturer must be the same as that of the parquet.
  3. A bar to compact the boards, a mallet.
  4. Tool to fix joints (for laying parquet board with 5G locks).
  5. A metal staple or wringer for laying the last row.
  6. Adhesive sealant, carpentry or PVA.
  7. Plastic wedges for gaps between parquet and walls.
  8. Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
  9. Construction pencil, tape measure and square.
  10. Level and hygrometer.
  11. Adhesive or reinforcing primer.
  12. If necessary, then a notched trowel, screwdriver, air gun or hammer.



Foundation preparation

First you need to get rid of all the old foundations. Then take measurements and determine whether the floor needs to be leveled. If yes, then there are two options to prepare the surface for laying parquet boards:

  • Use gypsum or cement-gypsum self-leveling self-leveling floors.
  • Assemble a screed from plywood, chipboard or the like.

Having prepared the base for laying, check it for moisture using a hygrometer, and with a long rail (more than 2 m) - for evenness. Small imperfections can be filled with quick-drying mortars or cemented.

The next step is the primer:

  • If laying the parquet board will be done with glue, use adhesive compounds.
  • If you plan to use the floating method, you need strengthening mixtures.

Is the floor base wooden? Then you need to cut off all the bumps from it (you can use a parquet grinder). Fill the hollows with elastic putty. If the boards "walk", pull the subfloor to the base with self-tapping screws or nails. If there are many defects, it will be easier to make a new screed from chipboard or plywood with a thickness of more than 16 mm. Treat the surface with an antifungal primer.

Preparation for work

Surface prepared. The next stage of work will be laying waterproofing and substrate material on it. Spread the film overlapping, the overlap should be 15-25 cm. Glue the joints with adhesive tape. Attach a substrate (sheet or roll) on top. Lay it upside down. If you are planning to glue the parquet board, this step should be skipped.

After purchasing the material, give it time to "get used" to the microclimate of the room, this usually takes from 24 to 36 hours. If a “warm floor” is installed in the apartment, then it would be good to turn on the heating system for two weeks, and turn it off 3-4 hours before the start of work. With this maneuver, an ideal climate for laying parquet boards is created and at the same time thermal damage to the final finish is prevented.

One important point. If, when opening packages with a parquet board, you find that some products are slightly different in color and texture, that's okay. Wood is a natural product, and therefore this sometimes happens. Turn this to your advantage by making an interesting pattern out of the boards.

Before starting work, be sure to draw up a diagram of the future installation, preferably on a scale. The last row should be at least 5 cm wide.


Floor covering installation

When laying parquet flooring using the floating method, start work from the longest wall, clockwise. Leave space around the perimeter of the room for expansion wedges. According to experts, it is better to do this after laying the first three rows of parquet: move the boards with the help of a bracket and insert wedges into the resulting gaps.

Next, at the boards in the first row, cut off the spikes directed towards the wall. Install the first tile in the corner and proceed with the assembly along the ends. If the edge plate is larger than necessary, cut it off. Start laying the second row from the rest of the lamella of the first. If you plan to lay a parquet board with a classic Click-lock, then after joining the boards with the butt, fasten them along the length, while certainly knocking them through the bar with a mallet or hammer.

By the way, working with Lock and 5G lock systems is much more convenient. All thanks to the ability to join them both along and across.

There are volumetric locks for which you do not need to adjust the plastic insert. Just click on the plates and you're done.

With the last row of dies, you will have to tinker a little. It is unlikely that they will fit perfectly in size, and therefore they will need to be cut. After that, the tiles are fastened at the ends and join the last row. Be sure to press the laid parquet boards with a metal bracket or wringers.

It happens that a pipe or something else interferes with the smooth laying of a parquet board. In this case, mark the cutting line on the plate, saw off a piece along it and drill a hole with a margin of 1–1.6 cm. Put the plank in the right place, apply an adhesive composition to the cut and glue it.

After the laying is completed, pull out the wedges and turn on the "warm floor" system (the temperature must be increased gradually). Fasten skirting boards and mount door sills. By the way, mandatory gaps in doorways are a requirement of manufacturers.

As a final touch, it would be nice to treat the floor with special flooring products. The wax contained in these mixtures clogs the joints between the boards well.

How to lay a parquet board on a warm floor

The parquet floor itself has excellent thermal insulation properties, plus, the underlayment does not let the cold through. But sometimes additional heating is still required. In such cases, the parquet board is laid directly on the "warm floor".

True, not every system is suitable here. If there are no problems with water heating, then the electric floor is incompatible with the parquet board. Such a “warm floor” heats up too quickly, a sharp temperature drop occurs, as a result of which the locks of the tiles begin to crack.

Laying parquet tiles on the "warm floor" should be carried out only after it has been turned off and cooled to room temperature. At the end of the work, the system can be turned on no earlier than a week later, and its temperature should be increased gradually, no more than 2-3 degrees per day. It is also very important that the floor is heated evenly, otherwise the parquet board may “lead”.

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The parquet board is the most technological option for replacing natural parquet, providing maximum compliance with the original. The material, made from natural raw materials, has a multilayer multidirectional structure, interconnected by polymer compounds (epoxy resins, polyesters, etc.) under high pressure. The outer surface of the parquet board made of hard and precious wood species has a multi-layer wear-resistant lacquer coating. Subject to the rules of care for the coating, the service life of the parquet board reaches 30 years.

Methods for laying Tarkett parquet boards

When laying modern piece materials, such as TM TARKETT parquet boards, a lock connection is used, which simplifies and speeds up the process of laying floors. Each board is made with filigree accuracy of geometric dimensions and connecting elements (locks), which allows you to get perfectly flat surfaces, without any additional processing (sanding, grinding). The laying of parquet boards is carried out in a floating way or with a landing on an adhesive composition. Technological differences between these methods are shown in the following comparative table.

floating floor

Adhesive floor

Specially presented high requirements to the quality of foundation preparation.

Minor errors in the base can be hidden with adhesive.

The parquet board is laid dry, without fixing, which allows you to correct the mistake at any time.

The parquet board is glued to the base, due to which coating errors can only be eliminated before the glue sets.

The coating is ready for use immediately after installation.

The coating gains strength gradually, as the glue dries, which takes an average of 4-6 days.

High maintainability of the coating, including the base - can be changed individual elements floor, gain access to communications hidden under it.

Even with local damage to the glued coating, it will have to be completely changed.

It is possible to reuse the dismantled coating.

Reuse of the parquet board is excluded.

Covering areas over 240 m2 require additional structural elements- transitional thresholds.

The surface area for laying is not limited by anything.

In addition, both methods of laying parquet boards have common characteristics:


1) Can be laid on a concrete base, cement screed, a surface of sheet materials- plywood, chipboard, fiberboard, DSP;

2) They require the same set of working, measuring and control tools - a hacksaw with a fine tooth, a square, a ruler, a protractor, a chisel or a special planer for processing edges, a pencil;

3) They have identical parameters of stability, resistance to external influences and service life of the coating.

Professionals, other things being equal, prefer the floating installation method for its simplicity and speed and suggest following the basic installation rules common to both methods:

1) The base for the parquet board is carefully leveled. The microclimate (temperature and humidity) within the limits recommended by the parquet board manufacturer must be maintained in the room for the entire installation period.

2) To protect the underside of the "floating" floor covering on a concrete base or cement screed, it is laid on a substrate covered with an insulating film.

3) The protective packaging of parquet boards is opened immediately before starting work. Different batches of the same type of material may differ in shades of color, so boards should be sorted to obtain imperceptible color transitions.

4) Boards from opened packs must be used on the same day.

5) The gap between the end of the parquet board and the wall is taken at the rate of 1.5 mm per meter of the total length of the coating. The minimum gap size is 8-10 mm. The same gaps are maintained when bypassing any rigidly fixed structures - pipes, stairs, columns, etc. This measure protects the finished coating from warping in the event of sudden temperature fluctuations or wetting.

6) The minimum shift of adjacent rows of boards relative to each other is 50 cm, which ensures the stability and strength of the finished coating.

7) The minimum width of the board of the extreme (last) row must be at least 50 mm. Otherwise, it is necessary to cut the boards of the first row. To prevent such a situation, preliminary measurements should be performed to determine the residual width of the boards of the last row.

8) Parquet boards, and especially locking elements, require careful handling during work, without which it is impossible to obtain a perfectly flat and durable finished surface.

Now in more detail about the floating and adhesive methods of laying parquet boards.

Floating parquet flooring

The finished floating floor is a type-setting board made of parquet boards laid on a flat base without the use of adhesives. The same technology is applicable for the installation of floors from other piece materials, the design of which provides for a lock connection - classic parquet, modular (panel) parquet, laminate. Among the most popular brands of parquet board Tarkett, which is distinguished by high mechanical strength, workmanship and absolute environmental safety - it does not use products containing formaldehyde.

The technique of laying a floating floor from a parquet board describes the sequence of stages, methods and techniques for bypassing fixed structures, providing technological gaps, and so on. The quality of the base preparation is checked. Concrete or cement screed must be completely dry, an insulating film is laid on them with sizing joints with adhesive tape and a substrate for additional thermal insulation and compensation (depreciation) of loads. The horizontalness of the base surface is checked by a level (spirit level) or laser control devices. Eliminate all identified defects in the base (dredging, chips, bumps).

The conformity of the height of the base level in the doorways is checked. To do this, a parquet board is applied at the threshold - there must be a gap of at least 3 mm between it and the lower edge of the door leaf. If necessary, the door leaf is trimmed before proceeding with the laying of the floor covering. Preparation for laying the first row of parquet boards begins with the removal of the side protruding groove along the entire length. Work should begin from the left corner along the longest length of the room, so the visual effect of increasing the space is provided. The first row is laid with a cut groove to the wall. The boards are connected by ends, for which they are applied at an angle and pressed down with a little effort. The lock automatically fixes the position and connection of adjacent parts of the coating.

The last board of each row needs to be trimmed. To do this, it is turned over to the back side with a locking connection to the wall and the cut line is marked. If the remaining piece of board is longer than 50 cm, it is used to start the next row. Here and in the future, do not forget about fixing the gaps (at least 8-10 mm from the walls according to the previously mentioned principle. For this, spacers are used, which can be made from parquet board waste.

After laying and fixing the first row of boards, the installation technique for subsequent rows changes. Each board is inserted into the lock of the previous row at an angle of 45 °, then there is an end connection (thorn-groove), and when the entire row is completed, it is pressed against the base. The correctness and quality of the connection are visible to the naked eye, if the seams are invisible - everything is done as it should. When fixing the lock connections, do not use excessive force so as not to damage them.

Another technique for laying subsequent rows of parquet boards is that the entire strip is completely butted up and only after that is inserted into the locks of the previous row. In this way, the installation process is accelerated and clearly visible color shades material, which simplifies the selection of color, pattern and surface texture. This technique should be used when there are assistants so as not to damage the interlocks when installing and moving the assembled strip.

When laying the last row of parquet boards, it is common that a longitudinal cut of the material is required. At the same time, its width must be at least 50 mm, taking into account the provision of a compensation gap. We hope you have not forgotten about the general installation rules in order to avoid an unpleasant surprise. The tool for cutting and processing edges must be carefully sharpened, otherwise the risk of chipping and delamination of the parquet board increases, after which it becomes completely unusable. If the last row of boards does not require cutting, only the protruding comb is removed from them.

When bypassing fixed structures (stairs, sills, etc.), a similar situation arises of a discrepancy between the width of the board and the place of installation. In this case, a protruding comb is removed with a chisel, a part of the appropriate configuration is prepared, and using a traction block, it is connected to the cleaned edge using a special glue, for example, TARKETT D3. For such an operation, it is not necessary to remove previously laid boards.

Difficult to bypass pipes for various purposes. In this case, it is necessary to drill holes in the board, the diameter of which is 16 mm over size pipes. From the outer center of the circle, cut lines are drawn in the form of a trapezoid, along which part of the board for the pipe plant is carefully cut out. After laying the board, the sawn off part is put in place with glue and a traction block, similarly to paragraph 8. The resulting gap around the pipe is closed with decorative rings to match the skirting boards. All bypasses requiring cuts or removal of the comb must be carried out as carefully as possible, since the appearance and solidity of the coating depends on this. If adhesive is used, excess adhesive must be removed immediately with a clean, dry cloth.

When laying parquet boards near the entrance doors, you can use the bypass technique proposed in paragraph 8. But since the floor at the entrance to the room is subjected to increased and regular loads, it is recommended to bring the edge of the board under the door frame, for which a cut of the required depth is made in it. Thus, the floor covering in this place receives an additional margin of safety. Do not forget about 3 mm of clearance between the floor and the door leaf. With a lack of experience, use the classic or chess way of laying parquet boards. Diagonal laying requires constant practice and skills in cutting material at different angles, so it is better to invite a specialist for such work.

Laying Tarkett parquet boards with glue

Fundamental differences in performance characteristics there is no glued and floating floor from parquet boards, but the technology of laying with the use of glue is more complicated and more demanding on the professional training of the performers of the work and the conditions for their implementation. The reasons for this are the impossibility of correcting errors made during the installation of the floor and the need to maintain temperature and humidity within acceptable limits to ensure optimal drying conditions for adhesives.

The technique and methods of working with a parquet board with an adhesive method are similar to the “floating” ones, adjusted for the characteristics of adhesive compositions - the time of manipulation with the material is limited by the setting and drying time of the glue. The following is the procedure and content of work when installing the floor with an adhesive method. Preparing and checking the basis of the floor determines the overall success of the business. The use of glue allows you to "forgive" minor errors (irregularities) of the surface of the base, but makes high demands on cleanliness - no dust and oil stains. In the latter case, surface degreasing is mandatory. At parquet boards of the first row, a protruding groove is cut off along the entire length of the board. This side will face the wall. The operation can be performed with a chisel, a special planer and a hacksaw with fine teeth. The tool must be carefully sharpened so as not to damage the internal structure and the outer surface of the parquet board.

To create a visual effect of a larger space, it is recommended to start laying the coating from the left corner along the length of the room.

Before laying the first row, the parquet boards are laid out dry with a lock joint to accurately mark the length of the row, taking into account expansion gaps with the walls. The last board of the row is almost always sawn. To measure it, the board is laid with the wrong side up and with a lock connection to the wall, after which a piece of the desired length is sawn off. The remaining part is used to start the next row, provided that its length is more than 50 cm. The ends of the cuts are processed with compounds to preserve the material from moisture.

After making sure that the dimensions of the boards of the row correspond to the length of the room, you can begin their installation. The laying place is covered with a uniform layer of glue for the width of the row. Parquet boards are laid with an end connection (tongue and groove), but are not pressed until the end of the row. Only after that the whole row is pressed against the base smeared with glue. To ensure a compensation gap along the entire length of the row, spacer wedges are installed every 50 cm, for which you can use the remains of a parquet board. The same wedges are installed from the ends of the row.

For laying subsequent rows of boards, two methods of work are used - a piece-by-piece assembly of the elements of a row or its assembly to the side and subsequent installation as a whole. In both cases, the boards are first inserted into the locks of the previous row at an angle, after which the fully assembled row is gently lowered and pressed against the floor. Do not forget that each row must have a shift relative to the neighboring one by at least 50 cm. Working with the full assembly of the row to the side speeds up the installation process, but requires additional labor. Sawing and processing the edges of parquet boards is accompanied by the formation of dust, therefore, before applying the next strip of glue, it is recommended to wipe the place of laying. The correctness of the connection of individual parquet boards to each other is confirmed by the absence of visible seams. Constantly control the shades of colors, which may differ in different batches of material, do not rush, but remember the limiter in the form of glue drying time.

Open packs of parquet boards should not be left the next day, because of which their characteristics may change and adversely affect the quality of the finished coating. Longitudinal sawing of the last row of parquet boards, techniques and techniques for bypassing fixed structures (stairs, pipes, thresholds, door frames) exactly repeat these procedures when laying floating floors. The clamping force of the boards in all cases and places of laying is regulated by means of a traction block.

The massive use of adhesives requires that you be careful about protruding excess adhesive and immediately remove them with a clean, soft cloth. Between floor covering and door leafs clearance of at least 3 mm is required. Upon completion of laying the parquet boards, we install the expansion wedges of the last row, after which the coating is completed. It is possible to step on it for the first time after 1-2 days, and the full strength of the coating and locking joints occurs after 4-6 days. All this time it is necessary to maintain the microclimate of the room within the same limits as during the installation of the floor.

A minimum of time is allotted to correct errors in the adhesive method of laying parquet boards. If the adhesive composition has passed the stage of setting (polymerization), then it is impossible to correct the error - only complete dismantling coatings and big problems with removing adhesive residue and re-preparing the substrate. Adhesive laying technology is required in rooms with high humidity such as kitchens. Do not overestimate your capabilities - such work requires professionals of the highest class, which means it is better to turn to specialists. We recommend that you heed this advice.

Gender out natural material is already a luxury. And if it is made of parquet, it is a royal gift for the house and its owners.

How to use parquet

After laying the floor, you can use it no earlier than 3-4 days later. At this time, do not ventilate the room!

A freshly laid floor must not be covered with carpets, animal skins, etc., so that its coating is completely dry. It's best to avoid carpet altogether.

In the first weeks of operation, walk on the floor carefully, do not jump, run, or drop objects.

In the first two weeks after coating, wet cleaning is excluded! Not completely dry protective layer will let moisture through, which will penetrate into the gaps between the dies.

Re-polishing of the varnished floor is carried out every 5-7 years, after which a new layer of protective varnish is applied.

Every 1-1.5 months it is necessary to apply additional protection coatings - apply polish. This will extend the life of the varnish, increase the water-repellent properties of the surface.

It is required to protect the parquet from mechanical influences. Furniture legs must be protected with felt pads.

If scuffs appear on a small area of ​​varnished parquet (where furniture was carelessly moved, for example), it is not necessary to sand the entire floor. It is enough to treat this place with spray varnish.

The oil and wax protective layer does not protect the floor from mechanical influences. If scratches and potholes appear, this place needs to be sanded and a new layer of oil or wax applied. The pothole needs to be patched first.

If the floor began to creak over time, then it needs to be restored. You can try to fill the cracks. If this does not help, you need to replace some cracked parquet planks. Perhaps more serious measures will be required - screeding, wedge padding, filling with adhesive, etc. It is possible that the parquet will have to be completely shifted.

Humidity in the room should be between 45% -60%. With fluctuations in humidity, the plates either swell or shrink. As a result, the parquet dries out, gaps appear between the plates, the floor begins to creak when people walk on it. To avoid this, you need to maintain humidity within the specified limit. During the heating season, use humidifiers. With high humidity, the room needs frequent ventilation and heating.

The air temperature should be in the range of 18-25 0C.

Parquet does not like temperature fluctuations in the room. Permissible change - ±5 0C.

To keep climatic conditions within normal limits, do not open windows for a long time on rainy days.

As you can see, the attitude towards the "royal gift" should also be appropriate. However, let's open a little secret - today, when they talk about parquet, they often mean not classic parquet (when the floor is made of wooden blocks laid one by one, friend next to a friend), but a parquet board. This material is somewhat simpler, it is easier to install, less picky in operation. But at the same time it looks very nice on the floor. Quite a lot has been said about such a coating, for example, on the website www.mirpola.kiev.ua (photos taken from it). Here we note that the parquet board is technically a cross between classic parquet and laminate.

On the one hand, it also consists of layers of wooden planks and, therefore, has the appearance and texture of parquet. On the other hand, it, like the laminate, is mounted on tongue-and-groove locks or on glue. By the way, as in the case of a laminate, waterproofing (film) and a soft substrate are first spread on the floor. Well, the base itself should be completely flat.

Otherwise, laying such a modern parquet does not require specific skills and is available to anyone. home master. In general, the operating rules for classic parquet can be recommended for floors made of parquet boards.


How to care for parquet

When cleaning a parquet floor, do not use:

Washing vacuum cleaner.

Abrasive cleaners.

Hard brushes.

When washing the floor, the main rule is that the rag should be only slightly damp. The parquet floor does not like water, it prefers dry cleaning.
Dry cleaning

It is enough to wipe the surface with a soft cloth, remove dust with a vacuum cleaner with a special nozzle protected by felt, or a hair brush. If a stain is found, it is not necessary to wash the entire floor, it is enough to wipe the area with a soft cloth moistened with water or a special stain remover.

To care for parquet flooring, special products are used - polishes, shampoos, emulsions, oils, waxes.
Wet cleaning

It is necessary to wash the parquet as little as possible!

It is best to purchase a shampoo specially designed for washing parquet. Dilute the required amount of concentrate in water according to the instructions. Wash the surface with a well wrung out cloth. If you accidentally spill water, immediately wipe the area with a dry cloth. Otherwise, the parquet will swell in this place, the protective layer will be broken, cracks will appear between the parquet slats, where water will enter in the future. Ultimately, this will lead to the destruction of the coating.

Thorough cleaning of the premises is carried out with significant contamination no more than 1 time per month using a special composition with a solvent. After that, a protective layer is necessarily applied with a polish.

It is absolutely impossible to wash the parquet covered with wax! Such a floor is allowed to be processed only with special compounds.

The beauty and nobility of parquet can be preserved by following the rules of operation and using special care products.

The parquet board is an amazing material that gives the interior an indescribable naturalness and attractiveness. Children take their first steps on this floor, beloved pets bask in the sun, and the inhabitants of the house themselves slap on the flooring in the early morning. It turns out that the floor experiences a load every day, so parquet board maintenance should be regular. And here special knowledge is not required, just a drop of care is needed.

Have you laid a beautiful parquet board on the floor? Get ready for the full care of the new coating. If you ignore this question, thinking, “what will happen to it!”, then soon the parquet board will lose its attractive appearance, dry out, crack, scratch. Scary? That's it, because a lot of money had to be paid for quality material, and if the laying was carried out by people from outside, then the costs turned out to be significant.

Then you should quickly familiarize yourself with the basic principles of parquet board care so that it is not excruciatingly painful for a damaged floor covering:

  • lining for furniture legs;
  • roller mats;
  • water repellent compounds.

In order for the care of the parquet board to be as correct as possible, you need to learn about the rules of care even before laying it:

  • protect the floor from scratches in every possible way;
  • if a dog lives in the house, after each visit to the street it is necessary to wash his paws. And also do not forget about the timely cutting of the claws of the animal in order to avoid damage to the surface of the parquet board;
  • put on furniture legs a kind of "boots", that is, felt nozzles. This precaution is most relevant for furniture that is frequently moved around the room;
  • today in the store you can find various care products, for example, polishes, mastics, varnishes, anti-slip agents. With their help, the parquet board becomes clean, shiny, a protective film is formed on it, which serves as a barrier against scratches and other defects. Plus, manufacturers offer consumers a huge range, you can find means to eliminate traces of shoes, chemicals, food contamination;
  • as for shoes, you should try to walk on the parquet board in soft slippers. It is strictly forbidden to walk in street shoes, especially heels. As a result of such unreasonable actions, chips, dents, cracks will appear on the parquet board;
  • after applying the varnish, you should wait 12 hours (do not forget to close the windows, doors) and only after that you can walk on the floor covering;
  • after complete drying, there is no need to rush and immediately begin to drag furniture, run, jump and stomp your feet. We'll have to wait a week or two, observing a gentle mode of operation. And if it doesn’t take time right away, the furniture should be moved extremely carefully, and during assembly, put a dense material, for example, corrugated cardboard, fiberboard, so as not to accidentally wrinkle or scratch the fresh coating;

Be sure to remove the substrate after the assembly is completed, because if you leave it on long time, there will be a very undesirable darkening in those places that were covered with cardboard.

Daily cleaning rules

This is a rather complicated event that requires special skills, because the wrong cleaning technology will cause damage, and it is not easy to eliminate it. So how do you clean hardwood flooring? First of all, cleaning should be done with a vacuum cleaner or a well-wrung cloth. The main thing to remember is an important detail - in no case should you fill the floor with water, as this will lead to swelling and warping.

Before cleaning, it is advisable to inspect the floor covering for cracks or deep scratches. If they are, it will be necessary to eliminate such defects without fail, because rotting processes will begin in the places of damage, that is, the floor will become unusable. The cracks should be cleaned with a thin wire, then sealed with putty from wood glue, birch or oak sawdust.

An unvarnished parquet board does not need to be washed frequently; it is better to wipe such a floor with a cloth that has been dipped in cold water with the addition of glycerin - the proportions are as follows: one tablespoon per 200 grams of water. Concerning hot water, then, according to the recommendations of experts, the parquet board cannot be washed with it. Of course, the easiest, not dangerous way to clean is with a vacuum cleaner. And, yes - if there are animals in the house, cleaning will need to be done more often.

Making armor against water

The parquet board catastrophically dislikes water, we can say that it is afraid of it. And, really, this common truth should be known and never forgotten. A large amount of water is the death of a parquet board!

But there is one secret weapon that saves the situation a little. The fact is that there are special means that repel water, few people know about them, and this miracle remedy is called “polish”. But this does not mean at all that after its application it will be possible to pour water in buckets on the parquet floor. The essence of the process is that a thin protective film is formed on the floor, which saves the parquet board from a small amount of water and abrasion.

Polishes are also useful when the joints between the plates are poorly sealed. For example, if a child accidentally spilled juice, there is no need to shout at him, accusing him of causing damage: the juice will simply remain on the surface, because the polish will not let him "slip" there. For primary use, you need to buy several bottles of polish at once, because it diverges instantly. It must be diluted clearly, observing all the points indicated in the instructions. Re-treatment will be needed in a week or two, but the amount of polish will decrease significantly. It is also important not to walk on the floor after treatment for about half an hour.

Floor mats for furniture

Furniture on wheels has a negative effect on the parquet floor, and on any other too. Take, for example, a computer chair, which is a headache for flooring: the wheels, fidgeting in different directions, damage the varnish and lead to cracking.

But, not everything is so sad, the hard work of scientists did not go unnoticed, you can find plastic rugs on store shelves. They save the floor from scratches and do not spoil the appearance of the room at all, because they are transparent, that is, invisible.

Special furniture and felt pads

And here progress is striding by leaps and bounds, however, finding such furniture is quite difficult. What is special about her? In fact, this is absolutely normal furniture on wheels (chairs, chests of drawers), just the wheels are made of soft rubber that does not leave black marks and scratches. The purchase of such furniture will great option if you want the parquet board to serve for a long time.

Felt pads are an excellent invention worthy of high praise. Why? Sometimes there is a need to move furniture, and often the furniture is dragged along, traces of such irresponsibility and negligence remain on the floor.

To avoid such negative actions, you just need to glue felt pads on the “sole” of the furniture. You can also buy felt heels and screw them into the legs of sofas, chairs, cabinets.

Ways to remove scratches

Undoubtedly, scratches are the most common damage that needs good disguise. Option one - a special wax-based pencil is selected, suitable in color to the parquet board. Then it must be melted and the softened wax applied to the unsightly scratch. The next step is to level the surface, removing all excess wax with a rubber spatula. After that, the surface is polished with a soft cloth.

The second option is a young walnut (only suitable for shallow scratches). First you need to split it, remove the core, rub it with a scratch. The wood in the treated area will darken, the defect will become less noticeable.

The above methods are suitable for removing shallow scratches, but what about others? The use of repair varnish will help here. Before starting the process, the surface is thoroughly cleaned, varnish is applied to it (according to the manufacturer's instructions). Also deep scratches can be eliminated with a putty of a special composition, necessarily matching the color of the floor. Putty is applied with a rubber spatula, excess is removed. After drying, the surface is polished with sandpaper, dust is removed, a layer of varnish and wax is applied.

Sanding parquet flooring

If, however, scratches cannot be masked, you will have to use grinding. But there is one caveat, a parquet board cannot be endlessly sanded, a maximum of several times. The specific figure depends on the quality of the manufacturer and the thickness of the top layer. On average, this figure varies between 5-7 times. Of course, before starting the process, you need to consult with a specialist or entrust this matter to the master.

It must be remembered that the humidity in the room needs to be controlled. The optimal parameters are 40-60%. If the humidity is low, the board will dry out, and this will lead to damage. It is best to put an aquarium in a room with a parquet floor and forget about humidity forever.

Dealing with stains on the floor

If there are stains on the floor that cannot be washed with a damp cloth, you need to use special products. However, there are still folk methods, the use of which has an excellent effect.

The main types of pollution and cleaning methods:

  • shoe marks (black stripes) - rub the floor with a nylon cloth;
  • paint, chewing gum - in this situation, only special tools that can be bought in the store will help household chemicals. Instruction plays an important role, since amateur performance will lead to serious consequences;
  • colored pencil - moisten a piece of cloth in white spirit and wipe the mark from the pencil;
  • wax - first freeze the wax stain with ice, then take a plastic spatula and carefully clean it off. Next, you need to put a piece of soft material on the remaining particles and iron it;
  • blood - a fresh stain is removed with a rag soaked in cold water, and for a dried one, it is necessary to add a small amount of ammonia to the water and moisten the matter with the already obtained solution;
  • nail polish - wipe with a solution of acetone with water.

An important point - it is extremely undesirable to use acetone in its pure form!

Types of protective coatings - varnish or oil?

As protective films various varnishes and oil-wax mixtures are used.

Option #1 - varnishes

Varnishes based on synthetic solvents have a pungent odor; people prone to allergies may experience burning in the eyes, pain. And some wear-resistant modern varnishes require obligatory ultraviolet lighting during fixing.

Before applying varnish, the surface is primed: the pores are filled, the surface is protected from cracking, and the consumption of varnish is reduced. It is best to apply a test coat on an inconspicuous area.

Option #2 - oil-wax blends

This method is still relevant today. The oil-wax mixture penetrates deep into the wood, fills the pores, gives the parquet board a unique look, while effectively highlighting the uniqueness of the wood species. Modern mixtures do not require too frequent application - it is enough to apply them once a year (of course, with proper care).

How is this process carried out? First you should apply a layer of oil, then another, but with wax. The composition of oil-wax mixtures contains Chinese or linseed oil, drying accelerator, color pigments, natural modifiers. Wax can be vegetable, animal. As you can see, the components of such compositions are natural, environmentally friendly materials. If there is a need to transition from wax to varnish, the wax must first be removed by sanding, otherwise the varnish will not set.

And lastly, the parquet board painfully reacts to various influences (physical, mechanical). But this does not mean at all that the floor needs to be covered with a carpet or a path. So the point of choosing a parquet board as a floor covering disappears altogether. It is better to protect her from unwanted contacts: do not walk in street shoes, do not allow dirt and sand to get on the floor, do not defile in high heels and, of course, follow the rules of care. Then the parquet board will delight the eye with its beautiful appearance for a long time.